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Man on the Ghats
Mornings are a busy time along the Ganges: pilgrims come from all over India to pay respects and receive blessings from Ganga Ma – the Goddess of forgiveness and purification.
India is a bundle of contradictions: chaos and calm permeate everything in equal measure. The sacred and the mundane rub shoulders. Think of the mingling scents of incense, cow dung, and refuse, and you might get a sense of it.
India is never dull!
Every time I wander Indian streets, I return to my lodgings hot, dusty, exhausted, and emotionally overwhelmed; I also return smiling, abuzz from the experience, and with camera cards full of images.
As I’ve said before, the country is street-portrait heaven. And, even when you don’t find people, the buildings and streets themselves are colourful, textured, and alive with their own personalities.
Thanks to good planning by photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours, I was staying in the middle of Haridwar, a short walk from the sacred ghats on the Ganges, the holiest of Indian rivers (see: Life, Colour, and Chaos).
Join me – and countless pilgrims – for a wander through Haridwar streets.
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Shri Gita Bhawan
Haridwar is a holy city and full of ashrams like this one.
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Child with a Woman Resting
Ashrams and temples provide lodging for travellers, but this woman was sleeping in a courtyard. You can tell from the metal kumbh (water pot) sitting here that she is a pilgrim. Who knows how far she and her toddler have travelled?
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Maya Devi Temple
This little Hindu temple is dedicated to the goddess Maya, mother of Gautama Buddha.
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Hindu Priests
Three young priests watch as I pass through the courtyard.
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In the Street
Every corner and cranny in the streets has something happening.
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Colourful Building
Colour is everywhere – Shiva’s tridents on the railing above shield the vibrant cloths hanging on the balcony.
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Rickshaw at Rest and Textured Walls
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Mannequins
I find old and battered caucasian mannequins in wildly colourful local clothing rather disconcerting!
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Man and Machine
I love watching people operate these old peddle machines – especially when they are running their businesses in the street.
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Man in a Woolen Hat
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Old Man in Glasses
Interesting characters are all around.
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Street Cobbler
A shoe repairman has carved out a space on the street for his shop. I can’t help but admire his hip flexibility!
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Stitching a Strap
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The Exchange
The cobbler’s customers know where to find him.
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A Police Presence
Even the local police are prepared to have their pictures made!
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Beads and Baubles
Being so close to the holy river, venders take advantage of their location, marketing all kinds of shiny trinkets. They also sell the red sandal paste and other powders used to mark tikas or tikas on one’s forehead in preparation for worship.
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Travelers
These narrow streets leading to the ghats are always lined with shops and crowded with travellers.
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Smiling Woman
Most of the pilgrims are happy to have their pictures made. We share smiles, but very little language.
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Serious Woman
Even without a smile, the gaze is clear and direct.
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Tattooed Hands and Tika Powder
I was captured by the tribal tattoos all over this older woman’s hands and arms; she graciously let me photograph them.
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Young Woman in Blue
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Women on the Steps
The ghats are a happy place, as groups of people gather to pay their respects to the Mother.
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Men Making Bread
You are never too far from freshly made food.
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Couple in the Street
People on the move take a break where ever they find a spot. I love how newspapers are an integral part of many Indians’ day.
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Man in Pink
The roller shutters on shops that aren’t open make a great backdrop!
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Man in Orange
So many of the pilgrims walking through town …
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Man in Black
… pause in the shops selling devotional paraphernalia on their way to the ghats.
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Co-Workers
Friends joke around with me in their shop …
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Stirring the Pot
… before going back to work cooking.
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Man in a Corridor
Streets tunnel off in all directions.
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Textured Walls
It was time to make my way back to the quiet shelter of my room and take a few deep breaths before doing it all again.
Until then,
Happy Travels!
Photos: 18-19November2013