.jpg)
Paying Respect to Mother Ganga
This is the Rishikesh I remember! The holy Ganges River races out of the Himalayan Foothills, past fairy tale ashrams and colourful gods on the way to the plains of northern India. (iPhone12Pro)
Rishikesh is a magical city of fairy tale ashrams and colourful gods. The city sits at an auspicious place, where the Ganges – one of the most sacred rivers to Hindus – flows out of the Himalaya and towards the plains. For me, the city’s name alone is evocative of sitar music, pastel-coloured Hindu temples, meditation, the Beatles, and most of all: yoga.
Rishikesh is routinely called the “Yoga Capital of the World” (eg: Inside Hook). After my first visit there in 2013, I said to myself – and to you – that I would love to escape into one of the many yoga ashrams for a long course of study. Almost a full ten years later, I finally made it back: not for a long course, but for a week-long yoga ‘retreat’.
The ‘retreat’ was attached to a yoga teacher-training centre, and located in the busy suburb of Tapovan, with its steep, narrow winding streets full of dogs, cows, and small children. It was autumn, and I hadn’t factored in the unseasonable heat when I booked a room with a fan (no air conditioning). Sweltering at night, I listened to the cows coughing in the street, and vehicle horns blaring, as cars and motorcycles tried to find their way past each other. I was into my third day there before I had a single class; the ‘retreat’ turned out to be more of a test of patience than a practice of yoga (see: Waiting for the Ganga Aarti).
But, my week included some fascinating excursions – including my favourite: to the Beatles Ashram (Chaurasi Kutia) – and for all the frustrations of dealing with completely disorganised ‘organisers’, I loved it.
Join me:
.jpg)
Rishikesh Street-Scene
Through the window in the reception area of my hotel, I watched the bustling street, and thought to myself that this is not like any ‘retreat’ I’ve experienced! (iPhone12Pro)
.jpg)
Garden at my Home for the Week
My simple room came with a fan, which I soon discovered was no match for the unseasonable 35°C (95°F) night-time temperatures!
(iPhone12Pro)
Rishikesh Roof Tops
It was no cooler early next morning when I got ready for an excursion into the hills. (iPhone12Pro)
Hindu Temple in the Middle of Nowhere
I was told to arrive at 7am, so I did. The bus didn’t leave until 7:30. It wound it’s sickening way up mountain hairpins for almost two hours before we we stopped at Itharna Temple in Gadool, a Shiva temple of some local importance. (iPhone12Pro)
Temple Bells
I’m always happy to ring a bell – which announces one’s presence and intent, and focuses the mind – even though half my attention was on the lack of breakfast!
(iPhone12Pro)
Gods and Sages In The Trees
Icons, offerings, and ritual fires are always everywhere. (iPhone12Pro)
Blessings from a Hindu Priest
I was very pleased that the resident priest was happy to have his picture made after he blessed me with red tilak.
Women Working
The temple sits at 1600 m (5249 ft). On the steep hills below, life goes on. (iPhone12Pro)
In the Field
I gave up waiting for the promised breakfast to materialize, and bravely pulled out my brand-new cameras and turned them on.
Gadool Hills
I had just switched to mirrorless camera bodies, and changed from Canon to Sony systems; everything felt different. I was lucky that anything came out in focus!
The Rice Fields of Home
The next morning I was up early for a class that never happened; I found a mat and did my own thing before walking down our long hill in search of some food and spiced tea. (iPhone12Pro)
Red and Green
I love the contrast of this woman’s clothing against the field she’s working in; much like the contrast between the busy street I’m on and the virtual countryside below. (iPhone12Pro)
Chai Wallah
Once I found a samosa and a masala chai in a clay cup, all was right with the world again! (iPhone12Pro)
Nandi at your Service
Before climbing back up the hill for my proper breakfast, I stopped in at a tiny local temple.
Vashishtha Gufa Temple
Our mid-morning excursion that day was to a famous meditation cave, a half hour to the east of us.
Gate on the Ganges
The temple was built around 1930 to be in proximity with the nearby caves. The rock on the foreshore points the way to the Arundhatī (washed by the rays of sun) Gufa (cave).
Lizard – Agama Iguanian
It’s a short, but very rocky, walk to the cave; I pause to admire a small iguana sunning on the cliff wall.
Inside a Meditation Cave
It is cool and dark inside the cave, and the energy is conducive to quiet meditation. Arundhati’s Cave – the smaller of the two – has also been called the Jesus Cave after one swami (Papa Ramdas) had visions of Jesus during his meditations here in the 1930s.
The Shrine
One story says the sage Vashistha meditated here for “a long time” after the death of his hundred children. Another says this is where he was born. Either way, we paid our respects before leaving.
Agama Iguanian – Lizard
Back outside, the lizards have changed colour!
Common Mormon Butterflies – Papilio Polytes
Butterflies were everywhere on the sandy edges outside the cave.
Indian Cabbage White (Pieris Canidia), Lime Butterfly (Papilio Demoleus), and Common Mormon (Papilio Polytes)
They were wonderful to watch!
The Ganges
With the verdant foothills all around, the Ganges keeps flowing … (iPhone12Pro)
Vashishtha Cave Temple
… and we work our way back up past the temple.
Rescue Animals
As distressing it is to see animals in this condition, it is good to know that Vashishtha Gufa Temple is looking after them now.
THIS is the Rishikesh I Remember!
This would be my most treasured moment: yoga on the Ganges ghats across from the thirteen-story concoction that is the Trayambakeshwar Temple.
Good Morning, Mother Ganga!
After leading us through our morning Hatha class, our instructor kindly posed for me. (iPhone12Pro)
Bathing in the Ganges
Not far from us, people were washing away their sins. I went into the river up to my ankles; I guess I am partially absolved. (iPhone12Pro)
Trimurti Gurudatt Ashram
It is as if these buildings on Mother Ganga are made from royal icing sugar! (iPhone12Pro)
Morning Practice
While waiting for my last class, this was the scene that met me. I’m a long way from able to do this! (iPhone12Pro)
Saints and yogis have been meditating on the banks of Ganges since antiquity. Finally it was my turn! I’m not sure I gained any enlightenment, but I tested my patience, and I had fun.
I’ll have to go back and try again …
Photos: 02-06September2023
.jpg)
