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Jagannath and other Temples
Durbar (Palace) Square is the beating heart of old Kathmandu. Somehow these ancient buildings have survived successive major earthquakes and they continue to bustle with tourists and faithful alike.
You could people-watch for hours in Kathmandu’s Durbar (Palace) Square!
Until the 19th century, the Hanuman Dhoka Palace Complex was the principal residence for the Malla and Shah kings who ruled over Nepal’s Kathmandu Valley and the Newari (Newar) people, the valley’s historical inhabitants and the people who gave Nepāl its name. The Newari still rank as the most economically, politically, and socially advantaged group in the country, influencing much of its art, culture, and religion, even though they only count as the country’s sixth-largest ethnic community.
As it exists today, much of the old palace was built in the 17th century. The roughly five acres of ancient courtyards surrounding it are packed with temples and shrines, many dating back to the 16- and even 1500s. This rich cultural heritage has lead to Durbar Square’s UNESCO listing – collectively with six other declared Monument Zones in the Kathmandu Valley – for its outstanding universal value. The ancient buildings demonstrate intricate detailing and skilled craftsmanship – like they do in Patan’s Durbar Square, another of these Monument Zones which had I visited earlier in the day (see: City of Devotion and Fine Arts). In Newari traditions, Brahmanic (Hindu) and Buddhist elements enjoyed equal status: this coupled with the value they placed on culture and art might account for the variety of old buildings in the palace precincts.
My Lonely Planet guidebook is old: it mentions the damage caused to these wonderful temples by the ‘great earthquake of 1934’. Since that time, the devastating Gorkha earthquake in April 2015 killed almost 9000 people and destroyed many of the precious buildings in Durbar Square and elsewhere. At the time of my last visit in 2017, there were still piles of rubble all around, and many buildings were propped up against collapse.
But, some repairs had been undertaken – and the people were in the streets, bringing the city back to life.
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Our Guide Sunita in the Courtyard of the Living Goddess
Close to the entrance to the square is the Kumari Bahal – the House of the Living Goddess – with its beautifully carved wooden detailing.
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In the Courtyard
The Kumari, or ‘living goddess’, is a Newari tradition stretching back 300 years to the last days of the Malla Dynasty. There are ten or 12 Kumaris around the Kathmandu Valley, but the one who lives here in Durbar Square is the most revered.
The Living Goddess
Chosen at age three and vacating her post at puberty, the Kumari is the embodiment of Taleju, a manifestation of the goddess Durga. I’m sharing this postcard because we were not allowed to photograph her – and in any event, she didn’t come to her window.
Keeping the Buildings Up
So many of these beautifully crafted buildings are in danger of collapse.
Rooftop Detail
The top of the Kumari Bahal features gold ornamentation.
Flying the Nepali Flag
This is the world’s only non-quadrilateral flag: the two triangles signify the Himalaya and the country’s two major religions.
All Smiles
Jagannath Temple
Thought to date back to 1563, this little temple is well known for its roof struts, richly carved with erotic images.
Wonderful Window
Everywhere I look, intricate details – and the evidence earthquake damage – catch my eye.
Kaal Bhairav
Kaal Bhairav (Kala Bhairava) is a fierce manifestation of Lord Shiva. This giant 3.6 meter (12-foot) stone carving shows the deity stepping over a dead body and holding a decapitated head in one hand. People worship Kaal Bhairav for courage and happiness.
Eating Grapes
Colourful Dhaka Topi
The distinctive Nepalese hat made from specially woven fabric is part of the national dress – and immediately recognisable.
A Pigeon and a Street Shrine
Pigeons – and wildly colourful shrines dedicated to the myriad of Hindu gods – are everywhere you look.
Nepali Man and his Sewing Machine
I love these street sewing stations and their old pedal-powered machines.
Scissors
The scissors are handy – and heavy!
Sewing Work
The work continues.
Ruined Shrine
A strangler fig tree (ficus religiosa) has taken over this old brick shrine in the middle of a street.
Namaste!
Another deity – Shiva, I think – is tucked into in a niche in the old brickwork.
Mahadev Temple
Delicate lattice work and carved roof struts are a feature of many of the temples.
Couple on a Temple Stoop
Rubbish and Ruins
Candle Wax and Latticework
Decorative lattice almost hides the intricate statuettes tucked inside.
Brass Bell and Marigolds
Ringing the bell focuses one’s mind and summons the Gods.
Marionettes
The detailed craftsmanship extends into the goods on sale in the shops tucked into corners in this honeycomb of streets.
Small Stupa in a Courtyard
The sacred is very much a part of everyday life.
On the Lions
Brass lions guard the entry to Shiva-Parvati (Parbati) Temple …
Shiva in the Window
… and overhead, Lord Shiva and his consort watch the street below.
Silver and Stones
The shops are a treasure-trove of intricately crafted silver and gemstones.
Buddha Heads
Religious iconography is in great supply …
Buddha Head
… and motivated me to buy and re-read a copy of Jeff Greenwald’s travel classic Shopping for Buddhas.
Durbar Square is an almost-overwhelming richness of colours, patterns, and cultural history. How wonderful that in spite of earthquake damage the city is also brimming with life!
Namaste!
This is a wonderful, representative collection. Thanks for the trip down Memory Lane.
So lovely to “see” you here Melissa! I can’t believe it is taking me this long to go through these photos. I’d go back in a heartbeat! xox