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Vieux Bassin
The multicoloured slate-clad buildings overlooking Honfleur’s old harbour date back to the 15th- and 16th-centuries.
I love the old cobbled cities of Europe, and the historical stories they tell.
I spent some of my school years living in the French-speaking parts of Eastern Canada where the historical root and ties were to France. When I was studying the history of the early European explorers and settlers in Canada, their names were engraved in the streets and monuments all around me. Perhaps this is why, when we were reading about the Seven Years’ War between the British and the French for dominance over their North American territories, I was always on the the side of the French – even though the historical consequences of the pivotal Battle of Quebec in 1759 are known to every Canadian school child.
Half a lifetime later and half a world away, in the parklands along the Seine in Paris (see: Monday Morning in Paris), I was ridiculously excited to come across busts of the best known of those early French colonialists: Jacques Cartier, who gave “Canada” its name, and Samuel de Champlain, the “Father of New France”, who founded some of the earliest European colonies on the North American continent.
Our history books made note of how many trips these men made from their native France, but they didn’t really give one an idea of how long the voyages took, or how dangerous they were in the vessels of the day. Fast-forward a few years, and I was standing in St Malo, Brittany, from whence mariner Jacques Cartier set off on his three exploratory expeditions to North America (see: Saint Malo Brittany). I had taken an hour and a half to motor in on the fast ferry from Jersey in the Channel Islands; Cartier’s first voyage, in 1534, took twenty days of laborious sailing due West across the Atlantic Ocean to what is now Quebec.
Then, a few years ago, I was on a small ocean vessel that was docking in Le Havre for a day: looking at the excursions available to me, I decided on a half-day trip to the medieval town of Honfleur. Located near the mouth of the Seine River, this charming seaside city was once a pivotal maritime port. At least some of Samuel de Champlain’s trips across the Atlantic Ocean to Canada (He made between 21 and 29 in total!) departed from here: his 1608 trip to found a settlement at Quebec City, and some of his other voyages, are commemorated in a plaque inscribed in 1899 and posted at the memorial arch in his honour in the Honfleur’s Old Town.
Although Honfleur is both a river-port and a sea-port, in the 19th century, Le Havre overtook it as a commercial enterprise. Honfleur, however, wins the tourism stakes: Le Havre was devastated by World War II bombing, and has been called one of the France’s ugliest cities. By contrast, Honfleur with its picturesque 17th-century harbour ringed by 15th- and 16th-century buildings has long attracted artists – including impressionists like Claude Monet – yachting travellers, and tourists alike.
Join me for a walk around La Vielle Ville (The Old City).
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Honfleur Crossroads
The skies are chancy when our bus drops us off, but the spring flowers more than make up for overcast weather.
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Poppy in a Garden Bed
I love a French spring! The flowers and new growth are magic (see: Les Couleurs de Printemps).
La Vieille Ville
Our first glimpse of the Old Town across the Old Harbour is a tantalising jumble of historical periods.
Quai Lepaulmier Wash House
Public wash houses were common in Europe before the invention of washing machines. The Honfleur Tourism website lists three: this one was inaugurated in 1867.
Le Lavoir Saint-Léonard
The Saint-Léonard wash house is close by; fed by a nearby spring, it was restored in 1807. The gothic-style Église Saint-Léonard sits behind.
Foliage in the Flower Town
Honfleur calls itself a “Ville Fleurie” or Flower Town, and the gardens are lovely. I think this is a local dogwood tree.
Église Saint-Léonard
A front view of St. Leonard’s Church shows off its flamboyant late-fifteenth century façade and its large octagonal dome-topped tower, dating to 1760. The first church on this site was consecrated in 1186, but destroyed during the Hundred Years War (1337 – 1453).
Jeanne d’Arc – Église Saint-Léonard
In France, you are never far from representations of Joan of Arc – one of the country’s nine secondary patron saints, and still a semi-legendary figure almost five centuries after her death.
Jardin du Tripot
This modern urban park was designed and developed reusing old materials reclaimed from the old tanneries that once occupied the site. This allows it to seamlessly merge into the historic heart of the Old Town.
Enfant sous un Parapluie
French artist Annick Leroy was commissioned to produce works for the space. This fountain depicts a naked girl under an umbrella.
Geese
Unfortunately, the water wasn’t running when I was in the garden, so the geese weren’t spitting their waters back into the Claire River below.
Reflections of Old and New
Calvados Country
This is apple country: calvados (apple brandy aged in oak barrels) and classic cider are everywhere.
Cour de Roncheville
Stone walls, cobbled streets, and courtyards: the whole town is a living museum.
Timber-Framed Buildings
Some of the building have been reclaimed and converted into actual museums, like this 16th century prison, which now houses Le Musée d’Ethnographie et d’Art Populaire Normand. The museum recreates domestic and economic life in old Normandy.
Vieux Bassin
Back in the open, we again have views of the houses standing higgledy-piggledy along the Old Harbour.
Carrousel à Honfleur
Every seaside town has a merry go round. This two-tiered carrousel sits on the Old Harbour …
Merry go Round
… and is enjoyed by young and old.
La Lieutenance
The 18th century lieutenancy building at the entrance to the old harbour was the home of the Governor, and later the commerce tribunal. It now a houses restaurant.
Memorial to Samuel de Champlain
Behind the lieutenancy, a bust of Samuel de Champlain and a plaque in his honour are posted next to the eponymous memorial arch.
Saint Catherine’s Catholic Church
The beautiful Saint Catherine’s is France’s largest wooden church. It was built in the 15th century by ships’ carpenters, and is almost entirely covered in wooden shingles.
Local Guide
Our walking guide points out some of the building’s finer details.
Saint Catherine’s Bell Tower
The church bell is in a separate building across the plaza; it too is covered in chestnut shingles.
Candles
Catholicism is the official religion in France, and 80% of the population are nominally Roman Catholic. Saint Catherine’s is still a consecrated building and home to an active parish.
Shuttered Window
Back on the narrow streets, everyday life is nestled into the old buildings.
“Honfleur, la Cité des Peintres”
One of the earliest the French impressionists, Eugène Boudin was born in Honfleur. The city has long attracted artists.
The Lieutenancy
It is all quiet around the Vieux Bassin as we head back towards the outer docks.
Hung out to Dry
This is still a working dock; …
Nets and Ropes
… and the fishermen keep a close eye on their nets.
Fishing Boats
Colourful boats sit in the East Harbour as we return to our own vessel.
I have a confession to make: before we returned to our ship, we indulged in some crêpes à la Normande with apples and Calvados…
But, even without the crêpes and the Canadian connection, Honfleur was a delightful place to explore.
Until next time,
Enjoy!
