Chasing Monks and Light: Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe

Novice in the Shrine, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery,

Novice in the Shrine
A young Burmese novice in the shrine-room at Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe.

David DuChemin, a man whose words are as richly textured as his magnificent photographs, recently wrote a blog post on the difference between an “Iconic Photograph [and] a Photographed Icon”.

“If I can find something that resonates more strongly with the human heart or imagination, I have a shot at the kind of connection in a photograph that one day others might call iconic. It’s the connection that matters. It’s the meaning.” (DuChemin)

I can’t help but agree with him. He goes on to say that one’s best work often comes from being somewhere often enough or long enough to see something different – something that tells a story or makes that connection.

Of course, we don’t all have the skills, imagination, time, or talent that DuChemin brings to his craft. Taking our own “copy” of an iconic image can be a big part of the travel experience. If we can also bring something of ourselves to the image, it might be original, and if we have some talent and skill, it might even be art. But, too often when travelling – especially with a group – our experiences are constrained or dictated by others, and there is little time to experiment.

Travelling with a photo group, as I was when I visited the Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, just outside Nyaung Shwe in Myanmar, brings a special set of opportunities and challenges. On this occasion, I was travelling with photographer Karl Grobl, who is good at coming up with photo-concepts, and local guide Mr MM, who makes those ideas come to life. A photo group can help you take short-cuts: you can share models and ideas, and you should be in the right locations at the best light.

But, you are not the only person trying to get that iconic shot – and when your turn comes up, the moment might have passed. I had done my homework before arriving at Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery and I knew I wanted some novices in those iconic oval windows.

For a number of reasons, it didn’t work out that way.

Gilded entry arch to Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Entrance to the Monastery
A gilded entry arch leads into the red-painted teak Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery.

Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Old Burmese Teak
Built in the early 19th century, the monastery is focussed on providing a home – with religious and secular education – for boys from poor families in the region.

 Novices reading, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Novices at Study

Novice with a notebook, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Novice at Study
It must be difficult for the young boys to live in the dormitory without their families.

Novice With Kitten, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Novice With Kitten
Many of them have kittens to keep them company.

Shuttered teak windowShwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Monastery Windows
It’s the iconic scene: the windows, where tourists wait and hope…

Oval teak window with a young monk, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Novice in a Window
… that a monk or two will look out and be framed by the ancient teak.

Novice with a Book, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Novice with a Book
Novices are scattered around the monastery rooms, …

Novice with a Book, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Novice with a Book
… trying to find patches of light in which to study.

Novice in a Window, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Novice in a Window

Novice in a dark corridor, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Light and Dark

Portrait of a Novice in dark corridor, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Novice in a Hallway

Monk with a Book, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Monk at Study

Portrait of a Novice in light patch, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Novice in the Light

Carved Wall, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Carved Wall
Textures are everywhere.

Novices Washing, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Novices Washing
Back outside, it is bright and sunny. Novices cool down at the wash basins.

The Walkway around the central sanctuary , Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

The Walkway
The central sanctuary has an arched walkway all around. Light angles sharply into the dark corridor.

Buddha in a niche, central sanctuary , Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Remembrance Buddha
Each Buddha is dressed in robes and its niche is inscribed.

Buddha Images around the central sanctuary , Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Remembrance Buddhas
The walkway is dotted with niches – each one with its own Buddha image.

Women Sweeping Rice, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Sweeping Rice
In the central courtyard, women look after the drying rice.

Portrait of an Old Abbot in a doorway, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Old Abbot
At the door to the kitchen-dining building, the abbot watches over proceedings.

Abbot

Abbot’s Hands
Traditional protective tattoos are visible on his hands and other exposed parts of his body.

Novices at the square wooden Windows, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Novices at the Windows
Finally! Some novices smile out of some windows; but, it’s the plain windows of their dormitory – not the oval windows I was hoping for.

Portrait of a Burmese man in a dark doorway, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

The Chef
Like the abbot, the chef has protective Sak Yant tattoos.

A Burmese man uses a brake drum as a Dinner Gong, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

The Dinner Gong
The chef uses a brake drum as a very effective dinner gong to call the novices to lunch. Theravada monks and novices don’t eat in the afternoons, so this will be their last meal of the day.

Novices lining up for Lunch, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Lining up for Lunch
The novices line up with their bowls as the abbot and the chef dish up food.

Monks at Lunch, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Monks at Lunch
All the monastery residents sit at low tables to eat their mid-day meal.

Burmese novice surrounded by candles in a corner, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

Candles in the Alcove
Once the novices have eaten, we are able to persuade one to pose for us in the alcove. (I posted a selection of these photos as “Light the Way” some time ago.)

It is a balancing act: knowing which photos you want to take, so you don’t miss them, against being open and ready to participate in what is there.

I’m still working on it: I was upset with myself for not getting the “iconic” shots of monks in teak-framed windows that I had wanted – but I still left the monastery with a rich experience I hadn’t been expecting.

Text: Happy TravelsUntil next time,

Happy travels!

Photos: 23September2012

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