Chapels, Caves, and Windmills: On the Lasithi Plateau, Crete, Greece

White statue of a woman in an apple orchard watered by windmills of the Lassithi, Greece

Woman and an Apple
Crete is a rich and layered place: fertile, sunny, and possessed of singular history. For example, the unique wooden windmills that irrigate the orchards of the Lasithi Plateau were originally built by Venetian engineers from 1464, during their tenure on the island.

Crete, Greece’s largest, most populous, and southernmost island, is a rugged place of mountains and gorges. Every day-trip I took while I was there was a test of fitness!

A day after descending a punishing cliff-slope to Preveli Beach (see: Preveli Beach and Palm Forest) and exploring the historic capital of the Rethymno (Rethymnon) prefecture to the west of where I was staying (see: Mountains, Gorges, and History), I discovered that the tour I had booked with Orange to Lasithi (Lassithi), the regional unit to the east of me, involved an arduous uphill walk up of about 45 minutes to a cave held sacred by the ancient Minoans.

The climb was up to the birthplace of Zeus, the god of the sky in ancient Greek mythology. According to the story, Cronus/Kronos became the supreme ruler of the cosmos after castrating his father Uranus. He wed his sister Rhea, and they had five children before Zeus. But, because it was prophesied that one of his children would overthrow him as he had overthrown his own father, he swallowed all the babies at birth. Rhea, after consulting with her parents, gave birth to her sixth child in Crete, in what is now known as the Diktaion Andron, Psychro Cave, or the Cave of Zeus. She gave the newborn Zeus to her mother Gaia to raise, and tricked Cronus into swallowing a rock in swaddling instead of his son.

The climb to the cave was about a kilometre in direct sun, with a 118 metre elevation gain, followed by a wet and slippery descent down concrete steps into the cave itself. But it was worth it! The climb affords wonderful views over the Lasithi Plateau, and the cave itself features some rather beautiful stalactite formations.

And, of course, the walk down the hill is a breeze!

The history and landscape of Crete is incredibly rich, layered, and complex. On this same morning, I also visited the Church of Panagia Kera, a Byzantine chapel and monastery, originally built between 961 – 1204 CE, and still home to a small order of nuns. We then visited a local pottery atelier on the Lasithi Plateau amid the orchards and wooden Venetian-style windmills. The hike up to the Cave of Zeus was followed by a wonderful lunch at a typical home-style taverna on the plateau next to more windmills. I think they served the best potatoes I’ve ever eaten! And the dolmades wrapped in vine leaves and zucchini flowers were superb.

I can’t share the food, but hopefully I can give you a taste of the experience.

View north from the Monastery of Kera Kardiotissa, Lasithi Greece.

The Aposelemis Dam far Below
At our first stop, the Monastery of Kera Kardiotissa, we are 630 meters (2067 feet) above sea level and have great views across the olive-covered mountains.

Candles on a shrine to the Virgin Mary, Monastery of Kera Kardiotissa, Lasithi Greece.

Virgin Mary’s Shrine
The Monastery of Kera Kardiotissa is also known as the Church of Panagia Kera; in fact, there are so many names attached, I wasn’t sure I was researching the right place! It is an Orthodox complex dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

Another Maria
Our guide gives us a lengthy history of the small complex before letting us loose.

Symbols over the Doorway
No founding date for the church of has been established, but it is believed that the oldest parts were constructed and painted in the 13th century.

Into the Chapel
No photos are allowed inside the chapel, where priceless ancient wall paintings date back to the second decade of the 14th century.

Bells
The much-more-modern bell-frame is dated to 1864.

Orthodox Shrine to the Virgin Mary
Stories of miracles here have led to the monastery being known locally as Little Lourdes. The faithful make pilgrimages and light candles. Every year, Mary’s birthday is celebrated on September 8th.

Southern Magnolia – Magnolia Grandiflora
The grounds are beautifully maintained – presumably by the six nuns living in what is now a nunnery.

Windmills of the Lasithi Plateau
The nearby plateau is known for its white-sailed windmills, made to the local Venetian design. They have been back in use to pump water for irrigation since the 1920s.

Potter on a Wheel
A Cretan potter working clay on a wheel in a family-owned ceramic workshop …

Working the Clay
… is using traditional pottery skills …

Pots for Sale
… to create pieces for visiting tourists.

Thistles on the Path
The sun is high when we reach the start of the walk to the Cave of Zeus.

Walkers on a Rough Slope
Some walkers choose the shorter, steep climb up the rocky scree …

Walkers on the Path
… while others – like me – take the longer, more gradual, paved path.

Lasithi Plateau
The views over the plateau give me a good excuse to pause on the climb to the cave.

Waiting Donkey
Donkeys are available for those who don’t fancy the walk. A signpost in seven European languages says that donkeys in Greece are endangered, and that riding them helps with their upkeep and ensures their survival.

Cave Entry
Once I finally reach the top of the trail, I have to wait my turn, as the ticket office works to limit overcrowding.

Down into Psychro Cave
Once inside the cave, it is easy to see why they made us wait! A narrow staircase leads down (and up!) into the beautiful, sacred cave with its the limestone stalactites and stalagmites. (iPhone12Pro)

Limestone Formations
… so the best shots I have are from my phone! (iPhone12Pro)

Stalagmites
My poor old cameras don’t handle low light very well … (iPhone12Pro)

Looking Back Up
As well as being naturally beautiful, the caves have enormous archaeological significance. Evidence suggests their religious use began even before the Early Minoan period (2800-2300 BC) and extended as late as the Roman period (from 67 BC). (iPhone12Pro)

Spiderweb and Berries
The walk back down from the cave was very quick and easy!

Donkey Rider

Ancient Windmills
In addition to the wooden windmills built to pump water for irrigation, the plateau is also home to later stone mills, first constructed during the 1800s, that were designed to grind grains.