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Boats in the Harbour
The harbour in the little town of Elounda on the picturesque and mountainous northwest side of the Bay of Mirabello in Crete, Greece, is home to colourful fishing boats as well as luxurious tourist craft.
Crete, the southernmost large island of Greece, lives up to its reputation for having a breathtakingly mountainous landscape surrounded by pristine beaches and charming coastal villages.
I booked myself a number of bus tours while I was there, and loved every moment I spent exploring the island.
One of the trips I took was to the ruggedly beautiful and sadly historic rock-island of Spinalonga (see: Colourful Rocks with a Colourful History). After a morning spent walking around the fortress there, we had some time in the delightful villages along the northwestern coast of Mirabello Bay.
Mirabello Bay, or the Gulf of Mirabello/Mirabella, is Greece’s largest bay. On the eastern part of Crete, the waters of the bay lead out into the Sea of Crete on the Mediterranean, which made the region critically important in the earliest days of sail. That is why the outpost at Spinalonga – on that rock in the bay – was originally fortified by the Cretans before the 7th century, and later by the Venetians in the mid-15th century.
At least one of the many beautiful caves around the bay is purported to have been a regular hiding place for the ships belonging to the Ottoman pirates /corsairs, collectively known as ‘Barbarossa’. One or both of these brothers, who were born on the island of Lesbos further north, dominated the trading lines across the Mediterranean for much of the late 16th century.
Today, the bay is home to small fishing fleets and up-market tourist towns. After disembarking our boat from Spinalonga in Plaka, we drove to the town of Kato Elounta (Elouda) for lunch and for some free time exploring. We then drove a short distance south to wander around Agios Nikolaos. This pretty little city is predominantly known as a hub for local tourism: European tourist development in this area took off in the 60’s, after it was used as the location for a number of popular cinematic and television productions.
Come explore!
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Pita Gyros
This is what ‘fast food’ looks like in Kato Elounda: fresh and tasty meat off the gyros, wrapped in soft pita bread, and complete with crispy chips!
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Elounda Beach
It might be September, but the weather is still warm and sunny, and the beaches are busy enough.
Elounda Street
It’s a typical Mediterranean scene: orange-tree lined streets backing onto olive-treed hills.
Agios Konstantinos Ke Agia Eleni
You are never far from an Orthodox Christian church in Greece.
Tiled Dome
Disciples Inside
Lines And Patterns – a Cretan Balcony
White-washed buildings help beat the heat; wrought iron balcony rails add elegance.
Bird Statue
I thought these were doves or pigeons, but Google Maps lists this piece in Elounda Square only as ‘Bird Statue’. I could find no information on the provenance or the significance.
Nikos Koundouros
This statue in Agios Nikolaos was easier to identify: the Greek painter, sculptor, and film director Nikos Koundouros was born here in 1926.
Boats on the Lake
The centrepiece of Agios Nikolaos is a small lagoon, Lake Voulismeni, which according to local legends is bottomless and connects underwater with the volcano of Santorini. It is deep (64 m / 210 ft) – but not bottomless.
Cat on the Foreshore
The walkway around the lake makes a lovely place to stroll – or nap.
Outside Fisherman’s Crypt
The tiered stone walls outside the little church at the southwest corner of the lake make a shady rest spot to take time out …
Musician on the Foreshore
… or to play traditional music.
Ducks outside Fisherman’s Crypt
Muscovy ducks roam freely.
Fisherman’s Church
The little church here is dedicated to the safety of the local fishermen.
Door to Fisherman’s Crypt
I was lucky to find the doors open; behind the church is a dark, tunneled crypt which has been turned into a makeshift ‘museum’.
Temple Cave on Lake Voulismeni
Grated windows are the only source of light inside.
Shrine in the Fisherman’s Cave
The cave houses a shrine and some iconography, as well as some dusty fishing relics.
Bridge and Buildings on the Lake
Back outside in the afternoon sunshine, my circuit takes me up a steep staircase, which affords wonderful views over the little city.
Buildings on the Lake
This is a mecca for summer tourism, and the the buildings surrounding the lake all look quite modern and upmarket.
Boats on the Lake
There are plenty of stylish boats on the water and trendy cafés on the foreshore.
Street Corner
Boats on the Harbour
Back on the main harbour, many of the boats are serious fishing vessels.
The Abduction of Europa
A stone slab at the base of this sculpture reads: “Europe is my name I am the daughter of the Phoenician King Aginoras and mother of King Minos creator of the Minoan civilization”. The statue was designed by Nikos Koundouros – whom we saw in the square earlier – and created by Nikos and Pantelis Sotiriades.
Olive-Oil Maker
Our last stop of the day was at the Cretan Olive Oil Farm where we were treated to an explanation of traditional oil production and an extensive tasting experience.
The fresh bread dipped in different mixtures of herb-infused olive oils was very moreish!
And, it’s all a part of a glorious afternoon around Mirabello Bay, East Crete.
Until next time,
Bon Appétit!
Photos: 06September2022
