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Pura Ulun Danu Beratan
The much-photographed 11-tiered meru – the thatch-roofed tower shrine – at Pura Ulun Danu Bratan is dedicated to Dewi Danu, the Goddess of the Waters, and features on Indonesia’s 50,000Rp note.
If you want to be a successful traveler, it pays to do your homework.
For example, checking the expected temperatures all around a region – not just on the coast – and packing accordingly!
This was not the first time I’d been caught out by weather in Asia: last year, my husband and I “forgot” that Vietnam is far enough north to get seriously cold in winter.
Bali, on the other hand, is just 8 degrees south of the equator, with average year-round tropical temperatures in the region of 30°C.
Unless, of course, you head into the mountains – in the wet season.
My husband and I had been enjoying some time in the coastal resort town of Sanur Beach when it became apparent that he needed to travel to Kuala Lumpur. Rather than join him, I decided to wait out his return near Candikuning. My plan was to do some yoga, go walking, catch up on work, and visit the temple of Pura Ulun Danu Bratan.
I hadn’t counted on the rain: three days of cold, ceaseless rain that knocked out the internet where I was staying and rendered my clothing – especially my shoes – woefully inappropriate. English language and tourist information fell away as I climbed the mountain to Wanagiri. Walking any of the local hikes was out of the question in the pelting rain and with the wet, slippery grass underfoot. No heat, no tv, no credit cards, and no internet: it didn’t take long for me to finish my book and to exhaust the “menu” in the wet, blowy common area. It turned out that the only transportation I could get down the hill to an ATM in the closest town was a motorcycle, making the idea of carrying my cameras seem pretty fool-hardy.
Still, you make do with what you have!
Fortunately, I had a plastic raincoat in my bag. I rolled up my pants so they wouldn’t get too soggy, grabbed my iPhone6 and my umbrella, got on the back of a small bike, and hung on for dear life.
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Bukit Kembar BacPaker Room
I’m pretty sure the ad I read when I booked my simple room emphasised the “EcoTourism” rather than the “Bacpaker” aspects of my accommodation. Be warned: eco-tourism is often code for “no infrastructure”. Although, to be fair, the local coffee (although gritty) wasn’t bad, and the water in my shower was nice and hot.
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Overlooking Lake Buyan
This is, no doubt, a lovely spot in good weather.
The Road Ahead
It was about 10 km of steep, winding mountain road, lined with jungle, macaques, and the odd house, back to the town of Candikuning.
Entrance to Pura Ulun Danu Beratan (Bratan)
I tried to organise for my motorcycle-taxi to meet me somewhere different, so I could go for a walk into town, but it was evident that we weren’t communicating clearly. I settled for assigning a time, and having him meet me here, where he left me.
Guardian at the Gate
This combined Hindu-Buddhist temple was built in 1633. Some of the features in the grounds – like the fierce dvarapala or gate guardians – are typical of Bali’s Hindu temple (and home) design.
Eco-Eagle
Other features – like this extraordinary eagle – were like nothing I’d seen before.
Shrine
Shrines of varying sizes and shapes are dotted around the grounds. The mountain in the background disappear into the rainclouds.
Candi Bentar
A typical feature of Balinese temple construction is the entry gateway, or Candi Bentar, which looks like an intricate tower that has been split into two.
Inner Sanctum
There is no entry to the inner sanctum of the temple, except to those who are engaged in genuine worship.
Inner Sanctum
When the richly-carved doors are open, however, you can see the draped temples within.
Visitors to the Deer Sanctuary
Deer have a special place in Buddhist lore, representing Buddha’s disciples.
Barking Deer
The barking deer (muntjac) is a protected species in Indonesia because of their diminishing numbers in the wild.
The 11-Storey Pelinggih Meru at Pura Beratan
Pura Beratan is a major Shaivite water temple complex, part of the UNESCO-listed Subak water management system. The 11-storey Pelinggih Meru is dedicated to Shiva and his consort Parvathi, and also enshrines a Buddha statue.
Visitors to the Temple
A brief pause in the rain allows visitors and their Balinese guide to walk around the site.
Fish Statue
A giant fish lives in Danau Bratan, which is also known as the Lake of Holy Mountain because of the area’s fertility.
Worker on the Site
Sacred Fig Tree
Wrapped in a black and white checkered cloth which symbolises the balance of good and evil in Balinese Hinduism, a giant fig commands a central place on the lawns.
Patterned Paths
Boats for Hire
There are no takers for the hire boats in the wet weather.
Another Fish
Outside the restaurants, more fish operates as a fountain.
Umbrellas in the Rain
From inside one of the restaurants, I can stay dry while watching more visitors as they leave the site under their colourful umbrellas.
I was lucky: the restaurant had reasonable prices and a free wifi signal; I dragged out my lunch as long as I could so that I could stay dry and check my mail and Facebook for the first time in two days.
Eventually, however, I had to roll up my pants again, don my plastic raincoat and brave the elements to meet my motorcycle driver for the long, wet ride back to my modest room.
Such is travel!
01February2017
