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Modern Architecture on an Ancient Port
Santander might be a small city, with ancient maritime traditions, but it is also a modern and cosmopolitan one. The Centro Botín, designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano, is a contemporary arts exhibition space built on stilts and centrally positioned between Santander’s Pereda Gardens and the waterfront.
Solo travel is not always seamless. There can be long gaps between connections. Finding a way to fill these gaps is not always easy!
But, in Santander, on the north coast of Spain, I found filling a day simple and enjoyable: replete with magnificent landscapes, intriguing public art, modern and historic architecture, and wonderful food.
After a week spent studying Spanish (see: Peak Me Language School) in Panes – a tiny town at the edges of the Picos de Europa National Park – and going for walks in the surrounding wilds (eg: Shepherd Huts and Mountain Villages), I needed to get back to England. As beautiful as this part of Northern Spain is, it doesn’t have the same tourist-traffic as the southern beaches. So, flights in and out are few, and tend to be with the low-cost carriers which fly at rather inhospitable times of day.
So, I had an early checkout from my room and a late check-in for my flight!
Fortunately, the Santander bus station is centrally located, with clean toilets and large luggage lockers. Divested of my travel bags, and in possession of a ticket for an airport transfer later in the day, my Google-maps and I were able to go for a long and satisfying walk.
Santander is a coastal city, with wonderful views over the Cantabrian Sea and I was lucky with the Autumn weather. Join me for Part 1 of a long city-walk:
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Story Board
My first stop – after having a chat at the Information Centre – is at a coffee shop to make a plan. (iPhone6)
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Tunnel in Calle Atilano Rodríguez
Art seems to play a role all across the city. Here, the approach to a road-tunnel outside the railway station is elaborately decorated. The tunnel itself is an exhibition space.
Selfie in the Street
I love the fish-eye view you get of city in the convex street mirrors.
La Estación Marítima de Santander
Designed by Cantabrian architect Ricardo Lorenzo García, the elegant glass-walled ferry terminal with its waving roofline was opened in 1971.
The Monument to the Fire of Santander and Reconstruction
The Great Santander Fire of 1941 burned for two days, and destroyed much of the historic centre of the city. This stone work by Cantabrian sculptor José Cobo Calderón, …
In the Pereda Gardens
… and the seven bronze figures of solemn adults and children close by, form a Monumento al Incendio de Santander, a Monument to the Fire in Santander.
Centro Botín Staircase
Opened in 2017, the Centro Botín art gallery is all lines and curves and industrial shine. Part of an extensive project to expand the Pereda Gardens and overhaul the docks, the space is now accessible, multi-purpose, and inviting.
Paseo de Pereda – The Perada Walkway
Some Santander city roads have been diverted into tunnels, allowing more pedestrian space. A waterfront promenade leads under the floating Centro Botín and around the Bay of Santander.
Tourist Boat on the Bay of Santander
The beautiful bay is a hive of activity, …
Bicycles on the Promenade
… and is clearly a recreational hub.
Palacete del Embarcadero
Designed in 1920 as a passenger terminal by Santander-born architect Javier González de Riancho (1881-1953), this small waterfront building was opened in 1932. Today, it is a cultural exhibition space.
Santander Waterfront
Puerto Deportivo – Leisure Port
Boats of all sizes are moored on the waterfront …
Sailing Dinghies
… and little dinghies are ready to launch.
Palacio de Festivales de Cantabria
Across the road, the Cantabria Festival Palace is a commanding presence.
Santander Festival Palace
The marble and copper-clad building designed by Spanish architect Francisco Javier Sáenz de Oiza (1918 – 2000), was/is controversial because of it’s size, cost over-runs, lack of natural light inside, and other interior design problems.
SPS Centinela (P 72)
It is only fitting that a city with a long maritime history would play host to the Navy. Serviola-class patrol boats were built in 1990 for the Spanish Navy, and patrol this northern coastline. One of these was in town, and open for visitors.
Lat and Long
You know you are in a city full of boaters when the geographic coordinates are prominently displayed!
Playa Los Peligros -‘Beach of Dangers’
It is Autumn, and this is the north – bordering the dangerous Bay of Biscay – but the beaches are beautiful and popular even so.
Overlooking the Harbour
My path takes me higher up, where I get views of the breakwater and Isla de la Torre (Tower Island).
Roca del Camello – Camel Rock
From some angles, at the right tide, this does look look like a camel.
José del Río Sainz (1884 – 1964)
A chunky bronze statue by Cantabrian sculptor Jose Villalobos Miñor (1908 – 1967) commemorates José del Río, Spanish navigator, journalist, and poet.
Enrique Gran (1928 – 1999)
Nearby, high above Playa del Camello – Camel Beach, a sheet-metal sculpture by Colombian artist Enrique Grau (1920 – 2004) depicts a notable local painter.
A Quiet Bench
Primera Playa del Sardinero
‘The Sardinero’s First Beach’, the next beach along – where people are enjoying the water, or flying remote-controlled airplanes – is rated one of Cantabria’s best beaches. It is named for the sardine fishermen who used to work from here.
Primera Playa del Sardinero – The Sardinero’s First Beach
With views stretching in both directions, it made a great place to stop for lunch.
Plaza de Italia
In the city across the road from the beaches, Santander’s Gran Casino sits under a popcorn sky. It was designed by Santander architect Eloy Martínez del Valle (1870 – 1939) and opened in 1916. The plaza is named to commemorate the help of Italian legionaries in the Spanish Civil War.
The Quinta Los Pinares
Also known as Casa Santos, this neo-baroque mansion was designed in 1916 by another Santander architect, Valentín Ramón Lavín Casalís (1863-1939), as a family summer vacation home. It currently houses a collection of contemporary sculpture for the Santos Foundation.
I was a fair way from my starting point, and thought it wise to walk back.
The return walk was equally rich in culture, art and history.
Stay Tuned!
Photos: 29September2019
