Ancient Jerash : Jordan’s Roman Ruins

Propylaeum of the Sanctuary of Zeus, Jerash, Jordan

Columns Rising
Built during the second century CE, the Propylaeum (temple entrance) of the Sanctuary of Zeus in Jerash, Jordan, still rises up in graceful beauty – in defiance of over 2000 years of looting, erosion, and earthquakes.

“What did the Romans ever do for us?”

I love that line from Monty Python’s Life of Brian and have thought it appropriate in many circumstances. Naturally, it came to mind when I was wandering through the magnificent Roman ruins of Jerash – Ancient Gerasa or Garshu – in northern Jordan. These extensive ruins, so far away from the epicentre of the Roman City-State, are an imposing illustration of one of the greatest empires the world has seen.

I’m not a great student of history, and most of what I know about the Roman Empire comes from the Colleen McCullough Masters of Rome historical novels. But, wandering across archaeological sites as far-flung as South Wales (i.e.: Caerleon – watch this space!) and the south of France (see: Ancient History: Nîmes) and Spain (see: Layers: Cartagena and Málaga) brings history to life, and makes me marvel at the magnitude of Roman rule.

Of course, the ancient Romans impacted more than just landscape: they influenced our modern military, political, legal, and social institutions, as well as leaving their mark on Western language, literature, art, infrastructure, and city-planning. But, it is in the remains of roads, aqueducts, and buildings constructed around two thousand years ago, that their reach is made visible.

Jerash has been called“Pompeii of the East” because it is so well-preserved, thanks to the dry regional climate: it is considered to be one of the best preserved sites of Roman architecture outside Italy. A marble plaque at the entrance tells the visitor: Jerash was founded during the fourth century B.C. under the Alexander of Macedon, even though there is evidence of the site having been continuously settled from the Neolithic Period (10,000–4,500 BCE).

The Roman Emperor Trajan (98-117 CE) incorporated the city of Jerash into the newly established Roman province of Arabia in 106 CE. Under Roman rule, the city entered a golden age of development and prosperity, and when Emperor Hadrian (117-138 CE) visited in CE 130, the city had grown to a population of 20,000. Many of the ruins we see today were built in preparation for that visit. The local architect Diororas is credited with the revolutionary construction techniques used to erect the vaulted domes of the South Theatre and the entrance to the Temple of Zeus.

The site itself is huge – and predominantly without shade or good signposting. I only visited about half of the ruins: I wish I’d had a paper map! I had to be back at an appointed time, and I had no sense of how far some of the temples I didn’t visit were.

Even so, I marvelled at everything I did see and explore. There is something awe-inspiring about walking through structures that were part of people’s lives so many year ago.

The Arch of Hadrian
Entry to the extensive ruins of ancient Gerasa are through the 11-metre high triple-arched gateway. Built to honour the visit of Roman Emperor Hadrian to the city in the winter of AD 129–130, it was originally twice the height and probably had three wooden doors.

Roof Detail : Arch of Hadrian
Major reconstruction was conducted on the arch in 2005: the repaired detailing is quite beautiful.

Fallen Cornice
Immediately inside the ancient outpost, examples of beautifully carved stone lie around waiting for the next restoration project.

Ancient Mosaic Tiles
The beautifully restored mosaic floor of the Church of Marianos (AD 570 -749) is a lovely example of the decor in the Byzantine churches of the time.

Outside the Hippodrome
Although not as big as the one in Rome, the Hippodrome in Jerash is the best preserved example in the world.

Horse and Handler
Inside the hippodrome, there are a few dainty horses with their young handlers.

Nooks and Crannies
The greenery is a welcome break: the site is is very hot, with the sun bouncing off the stones and bricks and tiles all around us.

Temple of Zeus
Temple ruins dominate the horizon around us.

South Gate
Originally, there were four gates through the city wall into the city proper; this gate at the south was probably built in AD 130.

Arch Entry
The 3.5km-long boundary walls surround a square kilometre of the ancient city.

Rocks and Columns

Rubble and Ruins
The renovation work is ongoing around the South Theatre.

South Theatre
Inside the South Theatre, which held over 3,000 spectators, …

Piper in the Theatre
… we get a sense of the wonderful acoustics when the Jordanian Bagpipe Band starts playing. I thought the pipes were originally Turkish, but there are those who claim they are a Roman invention.

Inscriptions – South Theatre
The theatre was supported by the rich, and inscriptions in Latin denote who has sponsored any given section of seating.

On the Phone
Surrounded by 56 columns – each made from four blocks of stone – the oval-shaped plaza outside the South Theatre makes a good resting spot for visitors.

Columns on the Hill
More columns lead into the Temple of Zeus.

Columns and Cornice
Up on the Temple of Zeus, the fallen ornaments are as interesting as those still on the columns.

Carved Cornice
The details of the fallen cornice pieces are beautiful …

Oval Plaza and Modern Jerash
… and the views over the colonnaded Oval Plaza and towards the new city are wonderful.

Lines and Curves

Cardo Maximus
There is something about walking on a Roman road: knowing you are on diagonal paving slabs that were laid two millennia ago! It is a tribute to Roman engineering that these streets are still intact.

Columns and Walls