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Figurehead of the HMS Benbow
Vice Admiral John Benbow (1653 – 1702), Royal Navy officer and commander-in-chief of the West Indies during the War of Spanish Succession, was honoured posthumously by a ship named for him. The HMS Benbow was launched in 1813; the ship’s figurehead in Benbow’s likeness now has pride of place at the Portsmouth Historic Dockyard.
The United Kingdom takes great pride in its naval history.
Separated by water from the rest of Europe since around 6500 BC., what are now the British Isles have always had a relationship with the sea for their livelihood and for trade. The Phoenicians in Iron Age Europe mention the trade route to England for tin and other raw materials around 600 BC. Even before the Roman invasion in 43 AD., early Britons used rafts and dugout canoes for fishing and transport.
In the early Middle Ages, Saxon mercenaries were recruited by British kings, but it was after the Norman conquest (1066) that seamanship and boatbuilding really took off. From the early 15th century and through into the 17th century, English ships were sailing all around the world searching for new trading partners, exploring new trading routes, and establishing colonies.
Of course, none of this was without controversy. Nor was it unchallenged by rivals. English ships traded in slaves and opium; ship’s captains engaged in royally-sanctioned piracy; and deadly sea battles and wars against other countries with competing interests were ongoing.
But, there is no taking away from the bravery and ingenuity of the men who went to sea, and no denying their ultimate success. On the maps hanging over the chalkboards in my childhood classrooms – half a world away – countries from one edge to the other were coloured in pink to show their affiliation with the British Commonwealth.
A few years ago, my husband and I were aboard a modern ship that owed very little to these early English pioneers: we were on a small Norwegian ocean cruiser sailing around the Iberian Peninsula and into the English Channel. On this particular morning, we were docked in Portsmouth – having stopped in Falmouth the day before (see: Another English Spring). We had tickets to the Portsmouth Historic Dockyard in hand and a few hours to explore.
I’ve never been greatly interested in battles and the like, and find the stories of wars distressing rather than glorious. But, there are some historical names that even I remember. To actually see Henry VIII’s favourite warship, the Mary Rose, was like reaching back into time. And my family (like many other British families, I am sure) told stories about Lord Nelson; to walk aboard his flagship from the Battle of Trafalgar was an absolute buzz!
Join me at Portsea for a small slice of Britain’s rich naval history:
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Portsea
One of the things I love most about small cruise-boat travel is the adventure of arriving in new ports. This is an early-morning view of the busy Portsmouth Harbour from our ship.
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National Museum of the Royal Navy
Elegant old naval storehouses, built between 1760 and 1790, have been repurposed to house the Royal Naval Museum.
HMS Victory
This is the most famous of Britain’s warships: Lord Nelson’s 104-gun HMS Victory: launched in 1765 and decommissioned in 1831.
Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson
This figurehead, made in 1840 for the HMS Trafalgar, depicts Vice Admiral Horatio Lord Nelson (1758-1805). The bust wears his full-dress uniform, the stars of the Order of the Crescent, (Turkey) the Order of St Ferdinand (Naples & Sicily) and the Order of Bath.
Lord Nelson Figurehead
He also wears a Naval Gold Medal around his neck and his gold-laced bicorn hat.
Henry VIII
As we walk into the Mary Rose Museum …
King Henry
… a life-size statue of Henry VIII (1491 – 1547) greets us.
Inside the Mary Rose
Said to be King Henry’s favourite vessel, this carrack-type warship was built in Portsmouth between 1510 – 1512, and sunk in 1545. The wreck was found in 1971 and raised in 1982. In a climate- and light-controlled room, the historic ship is undergoing extensive conservation and restoration efforts.
Ropes on the Mary Rose Gun Decks
Mary Rose Artefacts
The thousands of artefacts found when the ship was raised give insight into Tudor-era naval life. The museum has a lot of these items on display.
HMS Victory
Lord Nelson’s flagship is also undergoing extensive renovations.
View over the Docks from the HMS Victory
George Rex
Everywhere you look, the details bring history to life. Wooden ships needed their fire buckets handy – and like the vessels themselves, belonged to the reigning monarch – in this case, King George II (r. 1727 – 1760).
Rigging on the HMS Victory
Looking up, you get a feel for the complexity of these old sailing vessels.
British Royal Navy Flag
The White Ensign, at one time called the St George’s Ensign, has been used by Royal Navy since the 16th century.
Lifeboat
Figurehead of the HMS Illustrious
I found the figureheads fascinating. The identity of this one at the entry to the National Museum of the Royal Navy is a mystery.
“In the Toolbox Shed”
The old boathouses contain a number exhibits …
Shipwrights
… demonstrating the tools and skills required in ship building.
HMS Warrior
Spare a thought for the sailors working all that rigging! We got a last look at the 40-gun steam-powered armoured frigate, the HMS Warrior, …
Ship-Shape
… before heading back to the docks next door, where even our modern cruise ship requires a fair bit of people-power.
It was a fascinating and educational glimpse into history.
And it gave us even more appreciation for the comfort of the modern vessel we were travelling on.
Safe Sailing!
Photos: 22April2018
