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Morning among the Camels
Early morning sun warms the November air as people bring their camels to the water trough at the Pushkar Camel Fair.
Once again, pictures of camels and colour are flooding my news feed: the Pushkar Camel Fair in Rajasthan is currently in full swing, and photographers from around the world are there, posting pictures that make me nostalgic for India.
The Pushkar Fair, or Kartik Mela, is a multi-day livestock fair and cultural fête. Animal breeders and buyers descend on the small Northern Indian town of Pushkar, and for five days they display and trade their camels, horses, cows, goats, and sheep. As the name implies, the camels take centre stage: they are everywhere, in all their decorated, bad-tempered glory.
The dates of the annual fair are determined by the Hindu calendar and the phases of the moon: usually occurring between late October and early November on the Gregorian calendar. The official 2018 dates are November 15-23, finishing on the Kartik Purnima, the full-moon of the month Kartik, and the day of the Hindu, Sikh and Jain festival of Tripuri Purnima or Tripurari Purnima. So, not only does the town attract livestock traders, hawkers, and entertainers, it also draws thousands of Hindus who come to bathe in the holy Pushkar Lake.
My visit to the festival (with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours, and local guide DV Singh Jagat) was back in 2013, but it was such a rich experience that – while I’ve already shared some of the images I made there (see: A Gypsy Portrait, Faces at the Camel Fair, and Scenes from a Fair) – I still have a large body of work to review.
I so love travelling and making pictures in India! I love the food and the masala chai and the colour. I love that people of all walks of life are generally friendly and welcoming, and open to being photographed.
Join me for a day among the horses and camels, and the colourful characters who keep them.
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Morning Fires
It was our third day in Pushkar; we drove to the fairgrounds before sunrise to watch the site slowly come to life. It might be pre-dawn, but there is plenty of activity: the animals and the fires need tending.
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Sharing Drinks
The climate here is extreme: highs of 40-45°C are common in summer, and winter night temperatures can drop below 10°C. Wrapped in blankets against the chill of a pre-dawn November day, men share drinks and warm their hands over the fire.
Camels on the Hill
All over the extensive grounds, camels are tethered near their owners’ tents or carts.
Curious Camels
Some of the animals are curious at my presence; …
Ornery Camels
… most, however, are too busy arguing with each other.
Man and his Camels
Morning among the Camels
Before the sun comes up and the camel-trading starts in earnest, there is a wonderful quiet and sense of community in the Pushkar Camel Fair grounds.
The Morning Smoke
Many of the men around the morning fires enjoy smoking their clay or metal pipes.
Pushkar Scene
As the light rises over the surrounding mountains, …
Three Men
… there is more activity around the fair grounds.
Pack Camels
Camels are working animals: carrying loads or pulling small trailers.
Dressed Camel
Decorated with bells, beads and pompoms, the camels are the stars of the show. They even have a beauty contest!
Decorated Camel
Some have elaborate patterns shaved and died into their coats.
At the Water Tank
One of my favourite places to sit and people- and camel-watch, was the large square water trough, which naturally attracts a stream of visitors all day.
Women at a Fire
Marwari Horses – Equus Ferus Caballus
The other stars of the fair are the rare Marwari horses. With their distinctive, inward curving ears, these beautiful animals were originally bred by the Rathores, the rulers of Marwar (Jodhpur) up to the 12th century.
Marwari Mare and Foal
The Marwari (or Malani) descendants – which can come in all equine colours – are among the livestock for sale at the Pushkar Fair.
Man on a Marwari Horse
Prospective purchasers test them out before buying.
Tug of War
The trick, if you buy one or two of these spirited animals, is to get them into your transport!
“People Truck”
In over-loaded open trucks, …
Men in the Fairground
… on foot, …
Young Woman on the Bus
… or on busses: people come and go all day long.
Man in the Sugar Cane
Girl in the Sugar Cane
Sugar cane is a special treat; …
Sugar Cane Press
… it is pressed into juice for the fair goers.
The Ferris Wheel
Like any fair, Pushkar features sideshows and rides.
Mother and Child at Camp
Camel Rides
Finally, after five in the evening, the temperature starts to drop as the sun lowers in the sky. Soon it will be too dark for the camel rides that the tourists – even the domestic Indian ones – so enjoy.
From pre-dawn until after-dark: Pushkar Fair is a wonderful experience.
I’d go back any day.
Until next time,
Happy Wandering!
Photographs: 13-14November2013
