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Umbrella Trees over Rushing Water
Once upon a time, I had a four-foot (120 cm) umbrella tree (schefflera actinophylla) in a pot in my living room – carefully protected against the sub-zero temperatures outdoors. I never once imagined I’d see them growing, high over my head, in their natural tropical habitat! Here in the Daintree Tropical Rainforest, Rex Creek races towards the Mossman River under my feet.
The Daintree National Park is just magic!
The Daintree Tropical Rainforest, which the Park protects, is Australia’s largest remaining rainforest. Part of the UNESCO-listed “Wet Tropics of Queensland”, it covers over 1,200 square kilometres (463 square miles), and is home to a unique and complex ecosystem, housing many plants and animals not found anywhere else in the world. It is estimated to be between at least 135 million and 180 million years old – making it the oldest surviving tropical rainforest in the world.
The forest stretches from Cape Tribulation in the north, to the Daintree River Estuary in the south, running in a narrow strip (23 km / 14 mi) between the mountains of the Great Dividing Range and the Pacific Ocean. The Park, officially called the Daintree National Park (CYPAL/Cape York Peninsula Aboriginal Land), is broken into two sections: Mossman Gorge and Cape Tribulation, with an area of long-settled agricultural lands and two small towns (Mossman and Daintree Village) in between.
Early in my stay in the far-north town of Port Douglas, I had made the trip into the northern section of the park (see: Tropical Rainforest Magic). I have visited Mossman Gorge in the southern section twice before: once in the early 1980s, and once in the 1990s.
Needless to say, while the rainforest itself seems timeless, I found the infrastructure much changed! Following Google Maps, I made my way to the car park outside the very modern Mossman Gorge Cultural Centre. Opened in June 2012, the Centre is the starting point for local Indigenous-led Ngadiku Dreamtime Walks. When I visited, COVID-19 restrictions were still very much in place, so those walks weren’t happening. The Centre is also home to information about the area, a collection of Indigenous art, all-important coffee and food services, and ticket sales for the essential shuttle-bus to the starting point for walks into the gorge.
February is wet season in Far North Queensland and the weather lived up to its monsoonal reputation: it absolutely poured with rain for much of my walk. At times, hiking on a more-distant path, I had no choice but to wade through large puddles and, at one point, an impromptu rivulet. Fortunately, the water under foot was warm enough, and I was sheltered from any wind, so I could use my umbrella to protect my cameras.
Come for a wander in the the tropical rain:
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“Welcome to Baral Marrjanga”
There’s no footpath or pedestrian access from the car park to the Gorge, but the shuttle bus was running regularly. Signposting near the bus stop at the Mossman Gorge day-use area points me on my way.
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Baral Marrjanga Track
The first 330 metres (0.21 mile) of track is an accessible elevated boardwalk leading through the lower canopy of the jungle.
Ferns, Palms, and Creepers
The light is dim and filtered under the canopy, and when it is not raining, the air is hot, humid, and still.
Rushing Waters
Swollen creeks all race towards the Mossman River, enroute to the Pacific Ocean.
Cassowary Plum – Cerbera Floribunda
Lush vegetation is all around.
Jungle Greens
The forest is a patchwork of light and dark.
Rainforest Colours
A little splash of colour provides contrast with the greens – and food for the native wildlife.
Red Berries
I tried – and failed – to identify many of the plants along my route.
Stone Steps
Although there are new non-slip surface on the flat sections of path, the old stone steps are slick with rain; I’m glad to have my walking stick for stability.
Rex Creek Bridge Track
I think everyone who visits here takes this same picture of the waters of Rex Creek cascading over granite boulders. In fact, I took it twice: on the way out, and the walk back!
Umbrellas in the Rain
The current suspension bridge across Rex Creek was built in 2010 to replace the earlier one constructed in 1986 by army engineers. It’s not particularly good looking, but allows wonderful views into the rushing waters.
The Rainforest Circuit Track
After the suspension bridge, I picked up the circuit track.
Rocky Path
Although mostly well marked, this section of the track is less formal, …
Vines and Roots in the Path
… and you definitely need to watch your step!
Rockpool
Woods
Tall trees line the sandy track.
Buttress Roots on the Forest Floor
Spreading roots help rainforest trees improve their stability and maximise their oxygen and nutrient intake.
And Back Again!
The 3.4 km (2.1 mi) Rainforest Circuit Track brings me back to the suspension bridge.
Cascading Waters in the Rain
The rain continues – in drops so large I can see them!
Nest in the Treetop
This is another view of Rex Creek that appears in pictures everywhere.
Raintrees (Albizia saman) in Mossman
After my walk, I drove the short distance to the historic little town of Mossman. There is a real irony in having introduced trees on the main street of a town that is next to a Heritage-listed native rainforest!
In the Trees Above
The 120-year-old trees from Jamaica are covered in bromeliads and epiphytic ferns. (iPhone12Pro)
St David’s Church
This pretty little heritage-listed Anglican church in Mossman was built in stone some time after the 1911 cyclone destroyed the original wooden building.
Church Bell
World wars, further cyclones, and escalation in material costs, all interfered with rebuilding the Byzantine-style stone church, and the building wasn’t completed until 1952.
Nothing was as I remembered it.
But, the whole area is an absolute gem, so it was a joy to explore it, as if for the first time!
Until next time,
Happy Walking!
Pictures: 25February2021
