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The Monasteries of Meteora
It’s an extraordinary landscape – and a mind-blowing architectural achievement! Eastern Orthodox monasteries built in the 13th and 14th centuries perch hign on the rocky outcrops rising from the northwestern edge of the Plain of Thessaly, near the Pindus Mountains of Greece. (iPhone12Pro)
There are a few places I would return to without hesitation.
Meteora in Thessaly, Central Greece, is one of those places.
The landscape is remarkable: improbable pillars of sandstone and conglomerate rock rise out of a flat plain near the Pindos Mountains. The history is long and colourful and the architecture is astounding. Even better: walking trails lead between the ancient monasteries perched on their individual aeries.
The many caves in the region were inhabited continuously between 50,000 and 5,000 years ago. Much later – in the ninth century CE – ascetic hermit monks moved to the ancient pinnacles, taking advantage of the general inaccessibility for solitude, and utilising the hollows, fissures, and caves for shelter. Later, more than 20 formal monasteries were somehow built atop these inaccessible rock monoliths from the fourteenth century; the monks were seeking sanctuary from the increasing number of Turkish attacks in the region.
In their day, the monasteries were only accessible by rope ladders or large nets on pulleys. While this ensured the protection of the monastics, it was a precarious journey, as it is said that ropes were only replaced “when the Lord let[s] them break.” Today there are staircases and pathways cut into the rock formations leading to the six of the original twenty-four monasteries that remain occupied: two by women; four by men.
These are still conservative monastic communities: we were warned to cover our knees and arms: wrap skirts were available for anyone deemed inappropriately dressed. Photography inside was limited. But it was fascinating exploring them: admiring the art, wondering at the austere and pious life of the few remaining inhabitants, and marveling at the ingenuity that led to these buildings being there in the first place; and the walk through this incredible landscape was just wonderful!
Meteora was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1988 for its outstanding architecture, its religious and artistic significance, and its general beauty. Priceless examples of Byzantine religious art decorate many of the chapels.
Meteora is a four-five hour drive from Athens, where we had spent the day before sightseeing (see: On the Acropolis). It is well worth the journey.
Come along!
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Meteora from my Room
Sometimes it pays to get up early! How spectacular is that sunrise over my balcony? (iPhone12Pro)
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Into the Psaropetra Lookout
Our first stop after breakfast is at a lookout …
View over Holy Monastery of Roussanоu (Rousanos) Saint Barbara
… where we have a wonderful view over the plateau, the rock formations, and the magical monasteries on them.
Greek Cyclamen – Cyclamen Graecum
We walk off via a walking path with delicate flowers at our feet …
View from the Trail
… and glimpses of the landscape through the trees.
Monastery Garden
Established in the 14th century, but mostly built in the 16th century, the Monastery of St. Barbara or Roussanou (spellings and names abound!) is one of the six abbeys still operational. It became a convent in 1988 and today is home to about 10 nuns.
View of Monastery of St. Varlaam
Roussanou is the lowest of the monasteries (484 metres / 1588 feet above sea level), but the distance between the peaks affords us a great view of the higher Monastery of St. Varlaam (595 m / 1952 ft above sea level) across the gap.
Meteora Mountains from the Monastery Of Agios Stefanos
Believed to have been built in the 15th century, this is the other nunnery. (iPhone12Pro)
Religious Iconography
This is the only room inside the Monastery Of Agios Stefanos where photography is allowed. (iPhone12Pro)
View of Dupiani from the St Steven Monastery
Ancient Wall – Ancient Door – Ancient Lock
I love the rough textures inside these old buildings.
View from the Path
Back on the walking trails there are views all around. The Monastеry оf St. Barbаra Roussanоu (Agiа Varvarа Rοussanou) looks completely different from this angle!
Path to Varlaam Monastery
Sections of the walkways from the main road to the monasteries are cobbled or paved – but they are still steep, with frequent stairs.
Holy Monastery Great Meteoron of the Transfiguration of the Saviour
Fortunately, there is plenty to look at as we wend our way through the trees. The monastery across the plateau from us was founded in the 14th century by Saint Athanasios the Meteorite. It is the largest and the oldest of the remaining six – and closed to the public on Tuesdays (when I was there).
Looking up to Varlaam Monastery
On our side of the the plateau we can see the wires that are part of the cable car system the monks use to transport supplies – a slight improvement over the old ropes and pulleys.
Saints in an Alcove
Wildflowers and the Path
Plants cling to the inhospitable rocks, while tourists and pilgrims continue to come and go on the walkway far below.
Courtyard – Varlaam Monastery
Finally we arrive at the spacious and simple courtyard of Varlaam Monastery (595 m – 1952 ft above sea level; 373 m – 1224 ft above the valley floor), where the views over the surrounding tableland are stunning.
Entering Varlaam Monastery
The second largest monastery in this area, Varlaam Monastery was built by the Apsarades brothers Theophanes and Nektarios in the 1500s – but feels surprisingly modern.
Incense Burners and Icons
Photography is limited inside the monastery: the beautiful Byzantine chapel paintings are off limits. But to me, these incense burners (and clerics robed in black) are the epitome of the Eastern Orthodox faith.
Roof Tiles and Trim
Water Vat
Think about it: how do you get enough drinking water when your monastery is on the top of a mountain? This 12-ton capacity oak barrel, built in the 16th-century, was used for rainwater storage. Today it contains all manner of currency – thrown in by visitors, as if into a wishing well!
Painting of Abbots Past
The museums inside Varlaam include paintings and wonderful black and white photographs of the early days … (iPhone12Pro)
In the Museum
… as well as samples of richly embroidered old ecclesiastical robes. (iPhone12Pro)
Bits, Bells, and Bobs
In the monastery shop, Orthodox iconography and religious paraphernalia is for sale.
Various-Coloured Bellflower – Campanula Versicolor
After our tour through Varlaam, we head back into the woods.
The Monastеry оf St. Barbаra Roussanоu – Agiа Varvarа Rοussanou
Our walk out of the monasteries and into town takes us back under the Rοussanou …
Cyprus Turpentine – Pistacia Terebinthus
… and through the woods and mountains.
Dupiani
As we drop down to the flats, a massive rock stands out. This rock – Dupiani – was home to the first monastery founded here, and is still home to hermits in the crevices.
Meteora from Kastraki
It is lunch time when we reach the village of Kastraki (small castle) – those magnificent rocks stand against the sky in the background.
The whole place was just magic!
And the walk around the monasteries was just enough to be enjoyable, but no so hard as to be unmanageable.
I’d go back!
Until then,
Happy Wandering!
Photos: 13September2022
