.jpg)
Sunset over Muscat
With the jagged mountain backdrop, that giant incense burner high on a hill, and the outline of a medieval Portuguese watchtower overlooking the water, you could be nowhere else but the capital of the Sultanate of Oman.
When I’m travelling, I love to get out onto the water – or better yet, into the air – to get a different perspective on a new landscape or cityscape.
After a day of exploring Muscat at ground level (see: Sacred Spaces and Between the Past and the Future), I had the chance to take a sunset cruise on the Arabian Sea off the coast of the city in a traditional Omani dhow. When they told me that kahwa (or qahwa) – that deliciously spiced Omani coffee – and dates were included, I jumped at it!
Muscat, the Sultanate of Oman’s capital and largest city, hugs the narrow and rugged coast between the Gulf of Oman and the Al Hajar Mountains. For centuries, this strategic location – where the Gulf of Oman leads east to the Indian Ocean, and west to the Straits of Hormuz and the Persian Gulf – was almost inaccessible except by sea.
Seafaring Yemenis were probably the first settlers here over 2000 years ago, and they continued their reliance on the oceans for their livelihood and trade. The country’s current name Oman and old Sumerian name Magan both mean ‘sea-people’ in Arabic.
In the early 16th century the Portuguese conquered the town in a bid to protect their own trade routes east. They built fortifications which still stand along the coast and harbour, but were overthrown in 1650 by the Ottoman Turks. The Omanis, under Sultan Ahmad ibn Sa’id, a direct ancestor of the present Sultan, took back control of the city in 1741.
This led to a period of economic prosperity and ongoing naval prowess, but continual infighting between ruling family members, religious leaders, and tribal chiefs eroded many of these gains. British interference fuelled rifts between Muscat and rest of Oman.
Under Sultan Said bin Taimur, who was backed by the British government and ruled between 1932 and 1970, the country was reunified. However, his hereditary kingdom was characterised as being “feudal, reactionary, and isolationist”; and “the gates into Muscat [were] locked every evening at sunset”.
Following a palace coup in 1970, his son, Sultan Qaboos bin Said, took over and ruled until his death in 2020. He modernised the state’s administration, introduced social reforms, and increased spending on health, education, and welfare.
But, old buildings remain, traditional dress and customs are common, and classic dhows still sit in the harbour. It was lovely to head out onto the gulf in one of these old boats – even if it was under motor rather than the old-fashioned sails!
.jpg)
Boats and Cat Island
Under Sultan Qaboos bin Said, Oman was rated the most improved nation in the world in terms of development by the United Nations, and today it is categorised as a high-income economy. There is no shortage of modern boats in the Marina Bandar Rowdha.
.jpg)
Dhow in the Lowering Sun
Men around the city are most often seen in their national dress, the dishdasha, a simple, ankle-length, collarless gown with long sleeves.
Tourism is becoming one of Oman’s largest industries, and old Arabian sailing boats are adapted to play their part.
Sooty Gulls – Larus Hemprichi
Gulls circle overhead …
Exiting the Breakwater
… as we make our way out of the breakwater. The rocky outcrops rise dramatically from the harbour waters in front of us.
Small Person : Big Wheel
The dhows must be easy to manage: the skipper hand the helm to one of our young passengers.
Cat Island
Named for the appearance of the crouching animal on the back of this rock, Cat Island signals that we are out in the gulf.
Mountains behind the Harbour
It’s a dramatic and arid landscape rising up behind the harbour.
Al Bustan Palace
In a domed former palace, set in gardens between the Al Hajar Mountains and the Sea of Oman, an upmarket Ritz-Carlton Hotel is a short beach-walk from the small town of Al Bustan.
Majlis Oman
About thirty kilometres south of Muscat, Al Bustan is also home to Oman’s state council parliament buildings.
Al Bustan
We and the other tourist dhow jockey in and out of locations.
Small Sailboats on the Gulf
Dhow Rigging
Al Jalali Fort
As we turn north again, we can just see the fortifications around the Old City.
Muscat Old Cemetery
Also known as the Christian Cemetery or Sa’Ali Cove Military Cemetery, this hard-to-access cove is the final resting place of one British lieutenant – a casualty of the First World War. There are ten other war-era non-service persons buried here – and a number of other people from the 1800s. The reefs meant we could get no closer.
Ring of Mountains
A variety of commercial, recreational, tourism, and fishing vessels are out on the afternoon waters.
Pouring the Qahwa
Qahwa (or kahwa) is the Arabic word for coffee: but it isn’t just coffee! In Oman, coffee is blended with saffron, rose water, and cardamon – and sometimes with cloves and cinnamon as well. It is served with fresh dates (and possibly other treats) as a ritual ‘welcome’. I became quite addicted to it!
Into the Afternoon Sun
The lowering autumn sun silhouettes the rugged coast and the harbour in front of us …
Al Jazira Fort
… and turns the land and fort opposite the old city golden.
Old Muscat and Forts
As we round the point, it is easy to see how these forts – Al Jalali on the left and Al Mirani on the right – built by the Portuguese in the 1580s, commanded the small harbour in front of Old Muscat.
Al Alam Palace
The existing Al Alam Palace, with its colourful facade, was rebuilt in 1972 and is still used for official functions.
Al Mirani Fort
The dhow continues north, giving us a closer view of one of the historic forts.
Muscat Canon Turret
As we round the next point, the lowering sun silhouettes the Muscat Canon Turret and the jagged cliffs around Muscat’s main harbour. The Sultan’s two royal yacht’s, moored in As Sultan Qaboos Port, are faintly traced out in the last light.
Al Riyam Park
Al Riyam Park is an oasis of green between Old Muscat and Muttrah district. This is where the peace treaty was signed with the Portuguese in 1648; today it has amenities, coffee shops, and even a small amusement park.
Riyam Memorial
Built to commemorate Oman’s 20th National Day, the ornamental white watch tower at the top of the rise is designed to look like an incense burner.
As Sultan Qaboos Port
We continue past the royal yachts in the darkening harbour …
Sunset
… to the mountains north of the city where the sun sinks, …
6PM
… leaving us to return to our harbour in the dark.
There is definitely something magic about motoring gently back to port through a warm night on the Arabian Sea.
Wishing you safe sailing!
Pictures: 20October2019
