A Sunday Afternoon in Fort District, Downtown Colombo, Sri Lanka

Colourful kites in a blue sky, Colombo Sri Lanka

Kites over Colombo
It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon, and families were flying colourful kites over Galle Face Green in Colombo’s Fort District.

Colombo, the commercial capital of Sri Lanka, is a multi-religious, multi-ethnic, multi-cultural city of 5.6 million. Thanks to its large natural harbour and its strategic position along the East–West sea trade routes, the city has a long and colourful history, some of which is still evidenced in the historic colonial buildings dotted between temples and modern sky scrapers.

Colombo was known to Indian, Greek, Persian, Roman, Arab, and Chinese traders for over 2,000 years. Arab traders – whose descendants make up 9.2% of the Sri Lankan population today – settled in the region in the 8th century AD. The Portuguese arrived in Sri Lanka in 1505, establishing a small trading post and laying the foundations for a fort in 1517. This harbour-front area is still called Fort District, even though nothing remains of the fortifications that were elaborated many times over the years: by the original Portuguese, the Dutch, and finally the British, who pulled down the ramparts 1879 when attack by sea was no longer a real threat.

As Colombo’s central business district, Fort features a number of imposing modern high-rises as well as impressive examples of original colonial architecture. What draws locals to the area, however, is the Galle Face Green, the city’s largest open space, stretching for 500 m (1,600 ft) between the multi-story buildings along Galle Road and the foreshore of the Indian Ocean. The Galle Face Green Promenade, was set aside and built in 1859 during the British colonial era (see: Wikipedia).

I was lucky enough to have a friend living and working in the city when I visited some years ago, and as she too is a photography-enthusiast, she guided us to the best districts to walk around. We spent the weekend chatting as we alternated photo-walks with coffee-stops around the city: the temples and narrow streets of Slave Island on the Saturday (see: Buddhas of Colombo and Slave Island Streets) and the streets and parklands of Fort District on the Sunday – culminating at the historic Galle Face Hotel for sunset drinks and flag ceremony.

Do come along!

World Trade Center towers from inside the Old Dutch Hospital, Colombo Sri Lanka

Old Dutch Hospital
We started our Fort photowalk with coffee at the Old Colombo Dutch Hospital – built-for-purpose some time before 1681, and now retrofitted as an upmarket shopping precinct. In contrast to the clay tiles on the roof of the old low-rise building, the shiny towers of Colombo’s World Trade Center rise 43 stories up into the air.

Cargills (Ceylon) Limited building, Colombo Sri Lanka

Cargills (Ceylon) Limited
Once the home of the Dutch military commander of Galle Fort, the building here was acquired by the Cargills company in 1896, and rebuilt between 1902 and 1906. I don’t know how close the current version is to the original: there is a foundation stone dated 1684 preserved inside.

Sri Lanka Port Authority, Colombo Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka Port Authority

Sri Sambuddhaloka Vihare Temple with the sun behind, Colombo Sri Lanka

Sri Sambuddhaloka Vihare
The stupa-shape of this temple just off the busy Lotus Road interchange drew us in. (iPhone6)

Buddhas in the Sri Sambuddhaloka Vihare Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

Buddhas around the Stupa
We did a short circuit to pay our respects, …

Man and woman in conversation on a bench, Sri Sambuddhaloka Vihare Temple, Colombo Sri Lanka

In Conversation
… and left the locals to their afternoon chat.

Dredging viewed through a fence, Fort, Colombo Sri Lanka

Development through the Fence
Colombo is a city of waterways: here we are looking towards the Indian Ocean, as we cross over the canal leading out of Beira Lake. (iPhone6)

Man and woman in conversation on stone steps, Galle Face Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

On the Steps
The bridge takes us straight onto Galle Face Green.

Vendor with pinwheels on Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Galle Face Beach and Green
There is debate as to how this 5 ha (12 acre) ocean-side urban park came by its name. The space was originally set aside so that the Dutch cannons could watch over the sea and was laid out as a promenade by the British in 1859. The building in the background is our destination for sunset drinks: the Galle Face Hotel – established in 1864.

Motion blur: Pinwheels spinning in the wind, Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Pinwheels in the Wind
This urban park stretches 500 m (1,600 ft) along the coast, and is a popular destination for the city’s residents.

Colourful kite in a blue sky, Colombo Sri Lanka

Kite over Colombo
The sky overhead was full of colourful kites, and I was a little envious, as I’ve never succeeded in flying one.

Young girl in a hijab flying a kite, Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

l Flying a Kite
Even with better-constructed versions than the ones I tried to make as a child, some people still had trouble getting them off the ground.

Kites in the sky over the Grand Hyatt, Galle Face Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Kites over the Grand Hyatt

Family walking, Galle Face Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Family in the Park

Kite flying in front of Colombo Palaza Tower, Galle Face Green, Sri Lanka

Kite on Colombo Palaza Tower

Young girl in a fancy dress, Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Trying to Fly
I enjoyed watching this little one as she tried to get her kite off the ground.

Woman in a hijab and a girl in a fancy dress, Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

When the Grownups Take Over
The look on her face when mum stepped in to ‘help’ was priceless.

Spiderman kite in a blue sky, Colombo Sri Lanka

Spiderman Flying Free
This was my favourite: I love how Spiderman is hanging onto his web.

Woman and a lifeguard tower in afternoon sun, Galle Face Beach and Green, Colombo Sri Lanka

Woman and a Watchtower
The lowering sun turns the lifeguard chair liquid …

Sun behind the Sri Lankan flag, Galle Face Hotel, Colombo

Sunset in the Flag
… and sets fire to the Sri Lankan flag.

Palm Trees reflected in a glass tabletop, Galle Face Hotel, Colombo Sri Lanka

Palm Trees in the Table
The elegant Galle Face Hotel is one of Sri Lanka’s oldest and most popular hotels. We found a table in the outdoor courtyard. (iPhone6)

Two men, one in tartan one in hotel uniform, exiting Galle Face Hotel, Colombo Sri Lanka

Piper Playing
In true post-colonial glory, every evening two men come out of the hotel, …

Two men, one in tartan one in hotel uniform, at the Galle Face Hotel flagpole, Colombo Sri Lanka

The Flag is Down
… and as the pipes play and the sun sets, the Sri Lankan flag is lowered …

Men at the Galle Face Hotel flagpole after sunset, Colombo Sri Lanka

Evening Piper at the Fort
… and solemnly carried back indoors.

My visit happened to be on November 11th: Remembrance Day in my world, so even though I was in a very different place, while I was listening to a piper at sunset, I could only reflect on Laurence Binyon’s poem For the Fallen, and “…remember them.”

Text: Safe Travels! UrsulaIt was a poignant end to a lovely afternoon.

Wishing you and yours

Safe Travels!

Photos: 11November2018

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