.jpg)
Pont Valentré – Valentré Bridge
What could be more French? A picturesque fortified stone-arch bridge seems to rise out of the grapes growing along the banks of the Lot River in Cahors. Part of the UNESCO-listed pilgrim path to Santiago de Compostela, this medieval bridge has been in use since 1350.
I always laugh when people ask me if I have walked “The Camino”.
Exactly which caminino (“way”) do they mean?
Most people are referring to the Camino de Santiago de Compostela – the Way of St. James – a vast network of pilgrims’ paths leading to the shrine of the apostle James in the Catedral de Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain.
Santiago de Compostela was known to Christians since the early in the 9th century, when presumed relics of Saint James the Great were discovered there. It then became a major Christian pilgrimage destination. In 1492, Pope Alexander VI officially declared the Camino de Santiago to be one of the “three great pilgrimages of Christendom”. In 1998, the French Way and the Northern Routes in Spain – and some of the important historic monuments along those paths – were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List for their historical significance to Christianity.
I have been on sections of the French and Spanish parts of this “Northern Way” before (eg: Toulouse and España Verdi). It has always been serendipitous: I certainly haven’t ever set out to walk the countless miles that make up the full Camino network!
On a rainy autumn visit to the medieval town of Cahors, in the Occitan Region of Southern France, I was delighted to discover myself once again “On the Way”.
One of the UNESCO-listed structures on the Northern Way is the magnificent Pont Valentré, a 14th-century bridge that crosses the Lot River and leads walkers south to Toulouse and onward to the Spanish pilgrim paths.
I settled for walks along the river banks and across this impressive, fortified stone-arch bridge.
Bring an umbrella and come along!
.jpg)
Pathway along the Lot River
It was a rainy afternoon – but it was still a charming walk along the Lot River. There, an old friend introduced me to some of the delights of Cahors, in the south of France. (iPhone15Pro)
.jpg)
Église Notre Dame de Saint Georges – Our Lady of St Georges
Here, where a natural spring rose, there was once a chapel. The current cut-stone and slate building became a parish church in 1795.
The Weir
We watch the tourist boats on the Lot River heading towards the locks.
The Fortified Valentré Bridge
This magnificent bridge has six large Gothic arches, spanning 172 meters (564 ft) across the river.
Walkway under the Pont Valentré
Up close, the rustic bridge is quite beautiful – and is clearly a remarkable feat of engineering for its time.
Foot Bridge
Today, this well-preserved historic monument is only open to foot traffic.
Along the Lot River
The skies were full of rain when I approached the bridge the next morning.
American Pokeweed – Phytolacca Americana
Fontaine des Chartreux
Across the river, the rough stones of the pumphouse building at the Chartreux fountain stand out against the steep mountainside.
Valentré Bridge
It is such an elegant building! Considered to be the best preserved medieval bridge in France, the structure remained largely unchanged until 1870, when it was fully renovated by architect Paul Gout. In the style that was popular in the 19th century, he exaggerated the military characteristics somewhat.
The Golden Shell
At the base of the bridge, I find a shell. The scalloped shell is an iconic symbol of the Camino de Santiago – the Way of St. James: it is a metaphor for the many different routes pilgrims follow to arrive at their destination. Medieval pilgrims often wore shells on their cloaks or hats during their walks.
Under Pont Valentré
Under the bridge, the vegetation is green and the waters are calm.
Atlantic Ivy – Hedera Hibernica
The intermittent rains collects on the bridge approaches.
Along the River
Once on the bridge, it is worth looking back at the curve of Cahors.
Stairs to the Tower
How many feet have trodden these stairs over the centuries?
A Blackened Wall
The patina of time is everywhere.
From Pont Valentré
The waters above the weir are glassy-calm.
Through the Arch
La Maison de l’Eau – The Pump House
Built in 1853, the water-pumping station that supplied all of Cahors still has its original machinery – but it now operates as a museum and exhibition space. It was closed when I was there, so I contented myself with looking through the windows and back to the bridge.
Pont Valentré from Quai Albert Cappus
La Fontaine des Chartreux – the Chartreux Spring
Roman coins dating to the 1st century BCE attest to the significance that the Romans themselves attributed to these waters. Before that, the Cadurci – one of the last Celtic tribes to resist the Roman invasion into southern France – worshipped Divona, the Goddess of waters, here.
Old Stones at the Chartreux Spring
Maidenhair Fern
New growth finds a way in old stones.
Le Pont de Chemin de Fer de Cahors
A little further down the Lot River, the railway bridge crosses.
Pont Valentré from Avenue Mermoz Collinot
On my way back, I walk past the entry to the bridge to have a look at the weir on the other side; …
French Housing on the Waterfront
… the housing overlooking the river had me daydreaming.
Ah! La France! This was only one bridge in Cahors, and I had the rest of the town to explore …
Until then,
Bon Voyage!
Photos: 25-26September2024
