A Himalayan Sunrise: Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Sunrise rays in a dark sky, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Here Comes the Sun!
The chance of a sunrise in the Himalaya is worth getting up for!

Daybreak offers hope, a sense of renewal. 

And, a sunrise in the mountains makes me feel like anything is possible.

I’m not a morning person – but every so often I can be dragged out of bed for a special sunrise (eg: At the Top of the World). I certainly wasn’t going to miss my chance at another one in the Himalaya!

I was staying in Rishikesh, in the foothills of the mountains, practicing yoga in the 35°C (95°F) days and failing to sleep on hot, muggy nights. So, an early morning sojourn into surrounding hills where it might actually be a bit cooler was an attractive offer.

We set out at 4am for the winding drive up to the top of a hill in nearby Terhi Garwal. It was still dark when we parked, and started up the 80 steps to the Kunjapuri Devi Temple, which sits at 1,676 metres (5499 feet) on Kunjapuri Hill. The temple is known for its panoramic views over the nearby snow-capped mountains. 

The pantheon of Hindu Gods and their complex histories always leaves me a bit muddled, but it is said that part of the immolated body of Sati, an incarnation of the Goddess Parvati, wife of Lord Shiva, fell to the earth at this spot. 

Kunjapuri Devi Temple is dedicated to the Goddess Durga, the Divine Mother. Durga in Sanskrit means fortress, or “the invincible”; Durga is the most ferocious female Hindu deity. The temple is of immense importance to Hindu pilgrims and worshipers – especially during Navaratri, Durga’s ten-day festival (see: Haridwar Rishikesh Tourism).

But, like other foreigners and many of the locals, we were there primarily for the sunrise.

Night lights of Rishikesh from Kunjapuri Hill, Uttarakhand, India

Lights over Rishikesh
It was 5am: cool and dark, when we arrived at the top of the hill. We paused to admire Rishikesh, far below. (iPhone12Pro)

Concrete stairs up to Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Stairs
I was going to get my morning exercise! Apparently there are 80 steps up to the temple; I didn’t count them – I was busy trying to breathe. (iPhone12Pro)

Environmental portrait: The shopkeeper, Maggi Point Restaurant, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

The Maggi Point Restaurant
Near the top of the staircase, a shop sells temple offerings, snacks including pots of Maggi noodles, and – most importantly – masala chai. (ISO 6400, 28 mm, f/2.8, 1/200 sec) 

Portrait: The shopkeeper, Maggi Point Restaurant, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

The Shopkeeper
This was my first chance to play with my new mirrorless cameras – I was interested to see what they could do in low light. (ISO 64,000, 185 mm, f/2.8, 1/400 sec) 

Portrait: Young man, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Our Guide
Our escort from the Yoga school wanted to get in on the act! (ISO 64,000, 197 mm, f/2.8, 1/400 sec) 

Landscape: Midnight blue sky with a pink horizon over the Himalaya, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Predawn in the Himalaya
It wasn’t yet 5.30am when we got to the top of the hill; the light was just sneaking over the horizon.

Hindu gods in a meshed cage, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

The Gods
While waiting for the skies to lighten a bit, I explore the temple …

Man praying to Hindu gods in a cage, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Prayers
… where the faithful are already at prayer.

Pink predawn sky over the Himalaya, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Orange on the Horizon
A section of sky takes on orange hues …

Landscape: Blue hills under a pale morning sky, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Blue Hills
… and the hills roll off into the distance. (iPhone12Pro)

Distance sign, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

“Rome 3,642 – Тokyo 3,350”
(iPhone12Pro)

The story behind the temple on a plaque, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Kunjapuri Temple Story
Aversion of the story behind the the temple’s origin is on a plaque near the viewing decks.

Landscape: Blue hills under popcorn clouds, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Green Hills and Popcorn Clouds
(iPhone12Pro)

Fine green leaves with blue mountains in the background, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Almost Abstract: Foliage against Blue Hills

Landscape: Blue hills under a pale morning sky, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Layered Blue Hills and a Soft Pink Sky
The light and colours change from one minute to the next.

Landscape: Orange sky, a flared sunrise, and popcorn clouds, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Sunrise
At just after 6am, the sun breaks over the horizon and the sky changes colour again.

People silhouetted against the morning sunrise, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Watching Sunrise
There is a small crowd enjoying the morning views.

Two women silhouetted against the morning sunrise, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Enjoying Sunrise

Temple bells, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Bells in the Temple
Before entering a temple, it is customary to ring a bell: this alerts the gods to your presence, and helps focus your mind.

Seated Hindu man in a temple sanctum, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Priest in the Temple
In an inner sanctum, a temple priest is taking offerings and dispensing blessings.

Landscape: The Himalaya through a grill, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

The Mountains from the Temple
Morning has broken – I take a last look over the Himalaya

Concrete stairs down from Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India

Stairs Down
… before walking back down the stairs to our waiting car.

View over Rishikesh and the Ganges from Kunjapuri Hill, Uttarakhand, India

The Ganges
We stopped to admire Rishikesh in the valley below before driving back down the hill.

It was a lovely way to start the day – and I have enjoyed reflecting on it as we are about to start a new year.

Happy New Year to you and yours!

Landscape: Orange sky and popcorn clouds, Kunjapuri Temple, Uttarakhand, India Text: Happy New Day - Happy New Year

Pictures: 07September2023

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