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Legong Dancer
Bali has a rich and unique culture. At one of the temples in Ubud, a Legong dancer welcomes us to an evening performance of abbreviated classical dances.
Bali is a wonderful holiday destination: the people are warm and welcoming, the landscape is varied and amazing, the culture is rich and fascinating, and the food is fresh and fabulous.
I thoroughly enjoyed previous visits to this lovely Indonesian island (see: Bali, Indonesia), but this trip was for a family function, rather than purely for recreation, so much of my time was taken up with logistics, rather than tourism.
Still, a girl’s gotta eat! Half the joy of travel is the flavours – and Bali’s local take on Indonesian cuisine is always a treat.
We also managed to turn one necessary shopping excursion into an excuse to visit Ubud, the cultural heart of the island.
Ubud had grown since my last visit and was much more crowded than I remembered. But, it is still surrounded by verdant rice terraces and punctuated with ancient temples. As well as being home to every type of tourist shop, and restaurants representing the flavours of the world, it is also Bali’s center for traditional crafts and dance.
We walked the length of the hilly town, taking time in the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, home to three Hindu temples and over 1200 cheeky long tailed macaques. After yet more food, we enjoyed an evening performance of the tourist-version of classical Legong temple- and palace-dances.
Join me for some food and culture!
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On the Tarmac – Sydney Airport
Travel is always made sweeter when the weather you are leaving behind is inclement! (iPhone12Pro)
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Chicken Sate
My accommodation had no food on site and seemed a long way from anywhere! (iPhone12Pro)
Table on the Cliff
The silver lining was that I was forced (in spite of the temperature (31°C and humid!) to get out and walk. (iPhone12Pro)
Electric Sunset
This is the Asia I remember: tangles of overhead wires everywhere! (iPhone12Pro)
Carpenter on the Roof
My son calls this the “Spot the OH&S violation!” game. People performing dangerous jobs without any of the protective gear we have come to expect in the West is still a common sight across Asia.
Balinese Gate
In Bali, gateways are both physical and symbolic barriers, built to protect against wild animals and evil spirits. This one is a Paduraksa, a gate with a roof that serves as an entry to a family compound.
Goddess Sculpture on the Walkway
The Ubud Monkey Forest has a whole new entry building since my last visit. From there, we walked across a bridge where Sri Devi holds a paddy to guarantee a fruitful harvest.
Monkey Forest Entry
The journey into the forest continues through a cave called Durgama, named for the Hindu goddess Durga. The relief carvings on the entries depict the process of escorting guests in and out.
Young Macaques
The crab-eating macaques, also known as Balinese long-tailed monkeys (Macaca fascicularis), in the forest are territorial, and divide themselves into discrete groups. All the animals are well-fed, and the youngsters in this growing population considerably out-number their elders.
Cornerstone Detail
Dwarapala – Temple Guardian
Known in Balinese as a Bedogol, this gate guardian statue stands outside one of the temples inside the Monkey Forest.
Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal
The Padangtegal Great Temple of Death is one of three Hindu temples inside the Ubud Monkey Forest.
Mature Macaque
The animals in the sanctuary are healthy and well-fed – but will still chase and tourists if they suspect they are carrying any food in their bags.
Young Macaque
Three times a day, park staff distribute sweet potato.
Macaque at the Forest Entry
Lunch: Gado Gado (iPhone12Pro)
Dinner – Lemongrass Chicken (iPhone12Pro)
Temple Entry
After dinner, we make our way into the dark Pura Dalem.
Blessings at the Temple Entry
The Gamelan Band
At the appointed time, the traditional musicians start playing in what is a predominantly percussive ensemble.
The Condong Dance
Traditionally, Legong dances, which probably originated in the 19th century as a Balinese royal entertainment, were performed by pre-pubescent girls. Today, dancers may be male or females of any age. The dances tell traditional stories and involve elaborate costumes, exaggerated eye movements and facial expressions, and intricate hand and foot positions.
Baris Tunggal
A Baris dance is essentially a war dance, depicting the feelings of a young warrior prior to battle.
Tari Topeng Punta
By contrast, this masked dancer is a mischievous old man.
The Bee and the Flower
Some of the headdresses and hand positions bring to mind Khmer dancers, …
The Bee and the Flower
… while the eye movements are similar to those used in some South Indian classical dance styles.
Going Home
What is nice to see is the ongoing cultural tradition: I met these young ladies the next day. They were coming out of a local temple where they had just finished dance class in preparation for a festival. (iPhone12Pro)
Little Dancers
It didn’t take much encouragement for them to strike a pose! (iPhone12Pro)
Mount Batur
When I left the island a few days later, the clouds surrounded Bali’s active volcano. (iPhone12Pro)
Flying out of Bali, I looked at the volcano rising out of the clouds, and reflected on the joyful but busy week I’d had.
Even when a Bali break is not a holiday, it is an absolute pleasure!
Pictures: 05-12May2024
