Evening at the Chinese Opera: Bangkok’s Chinatown (2), Thailand

What a treat!

The last time I was in Bangkok: a troupe of Chinese-Thai performers was preparing for a traditional Chinese Opera play.

It was the middle of October, and in Yaowarat – Bangkok’s Chinatown – the annual Nine Emperor Gods Festival was in full swing. This Taoist celebration is more commonly known as the Tesagan Gin Jay (เทศกาลกินเจ), or Vegetarian Festival. During the nine-day celebration, people in Thailand, particularly those who have Chinese heritage, practice jay. Although usually translated as “vegetarian”, the diet is more like a vegan one, and practicing jay is about cleansing your body to attain purity: people wear only white, avoid strong smelling foods like garlic and onions, and “refrain from drinking alcohol, gambling, and all the other physical and psychological immoralities.” Chinese temples and shrines are decorated in red and yellow lanterns and streamers, and people flock to light candles and offer incense. There are parades featuring dancers in ancient Chinese costumes, Chinese dragons, drums, cymbals and fireworks.

And, there is a nightly Chinese opera – performed as thanks to the Gods.

This performance tradition dates back to the seventh-century Tang Dynasty, with stories based on Chinese folk tales and sung/told in Teochew, a Han Chinese dialect. The elaborate process of applying the stylised makeup, donning the intricate wigs and hairpieces, and getting into costume and character, can take hours – as can the actual production.

When we arrived in the covered courtyard – much like a carpark or an airplane hangar – outside the Chao Zhou Shi Kong Shrine, the light of the day was fading, but the heat – laced with burning incense – still hung in the air. The rickety, makeshift wooden stage was set up with its back to the Chao Pray River and plastic chairs were set out in neat rows. Behind them, giant devotional candles burned on raised platforms surrounded by oil burners and sand trays full of josh sticks. The ebb and flow of people was constant.

On the stage, in the cloistered heat of the crowded area behind the curtains, performers started their preparations. Seated on the stools or crates, they carefully applied their face paint and hair pieces in the dim corners or under the glare of free-hanging bare bulbs. Curious tourists – like myself – wandered through the area with cameras, trying to find some light while staying out of the way. 

The show itself was mercifully brief. I had no idea what was going on, and could not tell the noble men from the villains. Drums and cymbals competed with shrill voices in a cacophony of noise. But it was colourful!

I’ll spare you the sounds. Come and enjoy the visuals!

Its was a fascinating experience – but I was glad to get back out into the relative quiet of the darkening street.

Until next time,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 12October2018