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Thiruchirapalli Rock Fort
This dome-shaped cupola, floating high above the Tamil Nadu city of Thiruchirapalli, is typical of South Indian Dravidian temple architecture.
Wherever you go in India, you will find colour and crowds, heat and history.
This is particularly true of South India where the humidity rolls in from the surrounding waters, and the distinctive Dravidian Hindu temples punctuate the cities.
Take, for example, the city of Tiruchirappalli (commonly known as Trichy or Tiruchi) in the middle of the southern state of Tamil Nadu. I was only there for a few hours with a small group en route from Thanjavur (see: Cottage Industries, Fine Arts, And A Chola Temple) to Madurai, but we managed to visit two famous temples – and we saw many others.
Our first stop was at Tiruchirappalli Rock Fort, also known as Malaikottai. The 3.8 billion year old rock this historic fort and temple complex perches on is said to be one of the oldest formations in the world: as old as the rocks in Greenland. The cave temple here dates somewhere between 580 and 630 CE, and the subsequent additions range as late as the 18th-century.
A short drive away, across the Kaveri River, the commanding Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple (Srirangam) is the largest temple complex in India. UNESCO has recognised it as the biggest functioning Hindu temple in the world, and has proposed the temple-town complex for World Heritage Listing.
Also known as Periyakovil (Big Temple), Bhooloka Vaikuntam, and Srirangam Tirupati, this temple is mentioned in literature dating between 500 BCE and 300 CE. It has been rebuilt and added to over the years – I have no idea how old most of the various sections I saw were.
By the time we stopped for lunch, my head was full of dates and details that I’ve long-since forgotten. I’ll spare you most of them, and let the pictures speak for themselves.
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Rock Fort Temple
Tiruchirappalli’s fort sits far up over the street, on an 83 metre (272 ft) high rock.
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Street Musicians
Smiling young men with drums play as we walk up the narrow street.
Temple in the Street
You are never far from a Hindu temple – the colourful gopuram (monumental entrance tower) of Sri Muthu Marri Amman Temple rises over the street.
Steps up to the Rock Fort
It’s a long climb up the 344 steps that are cut into the stone that the Rock Fort sits on. (iPhone12Pro)
View over Thiruchirapalli
From the top of the temple, there are wonderful views down over the city.
(iPhone12Pro)
Thiruchirapalli Rooftops
Flat-topped multi-story buildings stretch out to the Kaveri River and beyond.
Ucchi Pillayar Temple
At the top of the Rock Fort, this 7th Century temple is dedicated to the four-armed, elephant-headed Lord Ganesha. We passed a rather sad looking temple elephant before climbing up to this highest point.
Couple on the Stairs
As I gingerly make my way back down the steep stairs, I’m happy to meet a young couple who want their picture made. (iPhone12Pro)
Shop Front
Colourful little shops are full of soft drinks, candies, and packets of chips and peanuts. (iPhone12Pro)
Saris and Shadows in the Street
Icons behind the Gate
Walking back past Sri Muthu Marri Amman Temple, I pause to admire the colourful images of Hindu Gods.
Street Musicians
Those drummers are still at it!
In the Vegetables
The streets are a marketplace, where life, gossip, and transactions mix.
Still Life Found – Bicycle
Vegetable Seller
Another corner, another informal market!
Chokos in the Vegetable Market
The fruit and vegetables look fresh and crisp – in spite of the heat.
Srirangam Rajagopuram from the Street
A short drive away, across the river, we leave our bus to walk to the largest active Hindu temple-complex in the world. At 72 metres (236 feet), the 13-storied entrance gateway looms large.
Elephant in the Street
It is hard to know where the temple starts and finishes. Inside the first entrance, we are still in what looks like “the city”.
Another South Gate
The temple complex has 21 colourful, sculpted gopurams, and I lost track of how many we walked through.
Lord Ranganatha
Inside the main complex, we are surrounded by ornate and colourful depictions of Gods – including this form of Vishnu, for whom the temple is named.
Temple Pillars
Carved pillars are everywhere.
Roof Detail
The Vellai Gopura – The White Tower
This distinctive 9-storey gopura on the east side of the fourth enclosure is almost 44 metres (144 ft) tall. It was painted white in honour of a Devadasi (a female servant of a god) called Vellayi, who sacrificed her life to protect the idol of Namperumal from Sultanate forces who had invaded the temple in 1323.
One of the 20 Candy-Coloured Gopuram
From the Rooftops
Colour is everywhere.
Shrine
Back inside one of the many darkened shrines, pilgrims and faithful make offerings and say prayers.
Pilgrims
In Hinduism, red represents honour, love, and prosperity, and is a popular colour for pilgrims to wear.
More Gods
Temple Door
I love the beautifully carved heavy wooden doors that you find everywhere in Asia.
Sesharaya Mandapam (Pillared Hall)
Built some time during the Nayaka rule (1529 to 1736), the north end of this hall features 40 beautifully carved war-like rearing horses with riders on their backs. (iPhone12Pro)
White Frills
From inside the Sesharaya Mandapam, we can appreciate the details of the neighbouring Vellai Gopuram.
Seated Man
This is a living temple – and people take their quiet time where they can find it.
This ancient city truly has rich cultural heritage – too much for me to absorb in one morning!
The relative quiet back in the bus was a peaceful relief – the chance to attempt to absorb and order some of the seemingly chaotic colour.
That’s India!
Photos: 25January2023
