.jpg) Woman and Boy
Kohl-darkened eyes shine out of murky, back-lit interiors; even the low light can’t hide the brilliant colours of mum’s turquoise sari. With 83 people per kilometre, compared with about two and a half people per km in the Sahara, the Thar Desert – that large arid region that stretches across most of the border between India and Pakistan – is the most densely populated desert in the world.
About 85% of this desert is in India, and about 60% of that covers Rajasthan – where it is home to 40% of the state’s population.
As you would expect given the harsh climate, the Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs, and minority groups who live in the desert are a hardy lot. Outside of the desert cities of Jaisalmer and Bikaner, most of these people live in small, scattered villages, growing drought-tolerant crops and raising robust animals.
But, they are also known for their rich and colourful cultural traditions, including their folk music and poetry. I love the soft desert colours woven into the rugged dhurries, and the wildly vibrant colours in the saris and soft furnishings.
I also love how welcoming the people are.
I visited a number of desert communities during my stay in Rajasthan (India+desert) with photographer Karl Grobl and local guide DV Singh. Granted, the villagers received a small stipend for allowing entry to our group of photography enthusiasts, but I never felt ‘in the way’ as people went about their daily lives, pausing to look at the camera with open faces.
Taking candid portraits in Northern India is such a pleasure!
.jpg) Old Man at Daybreak
Mornings in the desert are cold – the village residents are well wrapped-up when we arrive for our visit. .jpg) A Room in the House
The rooms indoors are simple but colourful, with richly decorated fabrics in true Indian style.  Ancient Millet
One of the oldest grains cultivated by man, millet (“basra” or बाजरी) is a Kharif – or monsoon – crop, grown and harvested during the rainy season. Old Man in the Courtyard
Rural Indians – especially in the desert – work hard. But, they have also mastered the ability to sit with a stillness that – even during meditation – I struggle to achieve! Young Woman and Child
The young children are shy; their elders have no trouble making clear, direct, eye contact. Woman in Orange Hennaed Hands
When asked (through sign language: I speak no Hindi, and English drops off long before one reaches these villages), the self-possessed woman in the orange sweater was happy to show off her henna decorations. As far as I could find out, there had been a local wedding recently. Autumn (post harvest) is a big time for the long, loud, and extravagant wedding celebrations in Rajasthan. Family Group
It is still early-morning, but the Autumn sun is starting to burn off the night chill and is casting sharp shadows. Woman and Child Man at the Well
Water, a precious commodity in the desert, has to be carried by bucket from the village well. Smiles from the Woman in Orange Woman in Green with Child
Back inside one of the houses, a grandmother shows off her toddler. Young Woman in a Doorway Three Faces in the Doorway
People in India, whatever their ages, seem to just drape themselves photogenically in windows and doorways. Eyes Everywhere!
Of course the risk when travelling with a group, is that as soon as you have worked up to the shot you want, other people with cameras walks over, and the subjects’ eyes go everywhere. Child in the Kitchen
Meanwhile, one of the young children has decided it is past his breakfast time. Man Child and Wife
Numerous studies have looked at the place of females in Indian society, and they say that it is the ‘most dangerous [place] in which to be a girl’. Father and his Girl
While I’m sure that this is true, it is also true that everywhere I’ve been in Northern India, I’ve seen (and photographed) proud dads with their daughters. Shrine in the Fields
Whatever religion local people practice, their practice of it is an integral part of their daily lives. Man in a Moustache
It there anything more Indian than a man in a moustache? This man was our driver – his English was rudimentary, … Medicinal Plant
… and all he could tell me about this plant growing at the village boundary, was that it was medicinal. Man in Red Turban
When it is time for us to go, the village elders say their goodbyes … Woman in Yellow Sari
… and the women go back to work. I alway feel so privileged to have the opportunity to make portraits in these communities, and to have a small glimpse into other people’s lives.
Until next time ~
Namaste!
Photos: 10November2013
Posted in Every Day Life,India,Portraits,TravelTags: children,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,India,people,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,rajasthan,thar desert,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Jerron “Blind Boy” Paxton
A young man playing “Old Man Blues”: “Blind Boy” Paxton plays both old and original acoustic music in the American-roots traditions of ragtime, hokum, French reels, Appalachian mountain music, and classic blues. Easter!
In Australia it is Autumn. Easter might include chocolate bilbies (marsupial rabbit-bandicoots) instead of bunnies, but there are plenty of hot-cross buns and chocolate eggs.
Because Easter is a long weekend, it is also time for the Byron Bay Bluesfest. First held in 1990 as The East Coast Blues Festival, this annual celebration of music has grown over the years: encompassing music from blues and roots to pop and rock, alternative and jazz, expanding to five days, and including big names and lesser-known artists from Australia and around the world.
I love it!
I first attended in 1999, when it was the tenth anniversary East Coast Blues & Roots Festival. I felt as if I’d been pitched fully back into the best bits of my adolescence, boogying without stop to the music of my youth and the music of my children.
We then made the trip in 2013 (Singing the Blues), and in 2014 for the 25th anniversary (e.g.: Full Blast and Full Colour; The Sound of Sunshine; Musical Name-Dropping; Homegrown Favourites; Another Time and Place).
What I love most – aside from the wonderful food available on site and meeting up with friends – is the excellence and range of music. Whether it’s names I know and love or new music I’ve never heard before, it is always top-flight quality. I don’t enjoy every artist, but I do love most of them. Add the challenge of trying to take photographs in impossibly low light while bouncing up and down with hundreds of other enthusiastic fans, and I’m a very happy dancer!
Join me for some highlights from the first couple of days.
“Harts” and The Crowd
As you can see, even with five undercover stages, a small busking stage, and various roving acts, the tents get crowded early. One of four artists to launch the 2016 performances in the main tents on the Thursday, Darren Hart, known as “Harts”, was already commanding an audience when we arrived. Darren Hart: “Harts”
This young Indian-born Melbourne-based multi-instrumentalist composes, produces, and records his own music in his bedroom studio. Known for his blend of funk, pop, rock and soul – and his Hendrix-like guitar – Harts came to the attention of Prince, who flew him out to his US studios last year. Open Harts’ link (www.hartsmusic.com) for a sample. Jerron “Blind Boy” Paxton
Completely different, but almost as young and equally terrific, “Blind Boy” Paxton grew up listening to early American music, old Cajun, and country blues. Another multi-instrumentalist, as well as singing he plays banjo, guitar, piano, fiddle, harmonica, Cajun accordion, and the bones (percussion). Rhiannon Giddens
Also a serious student of what she calls “American roots” music, Rhiannon was a founding member of the Grammy-award winning Carolina Chocolate Drops before branching out on her own. Rhiannon Giddens
Her wonderful voice ranged across songs by Patsy Cline, Dolly Parton, and others, as she switched from traditional banjo to violin and back again. Hussy Hicks
Hussy Hicks, with their soaring vocals and virtuoso guitar… Julz Parker
… have their grounding closer to home in Australian roots, “old skool blues”, and country. Julz Parker
They are sometimes billed as a “progressive folk duo”, possibly because of their seamless harmonies and the “honest” story-telling and social commentary of their lyrics, … Leesa Gentz
… but it was the torch-singer heft and range of Leesa’s voice which literally gave me goosebumps. Father Parker
Musical talent doesn’t come out of a vacuum; Julz Parker’s dad joined the women on stage with his harmonica for a number. Emma Donovan
As part of the renowned Australian musical Donovan family, Indigenous singer-songwriter Emma Donovan first sang in public at age seven. She draws on R&B, soul, country, reggae styles for her songs of urban aboriginal life – often in her mother’s traditional language. Arakwal Opening Ceremony
Its hard to get more “back to roots” than with music, song, and dance from the people who’s ancestors have lived in the Byron Bay area for at least 22,000 years. Arakwal Opening Ceremony
Rhythm sticks are a big part of the cultural story-telling tradition … Didgeridoo
… as of course, is the didgeridoo. East Journey under Lights
Bridging Aboriginal culture and more modern music, East Journey, from Arnhem Land in the vast wilderness that is the northeast corner of Australia, combine tradition Aboriginal sounds with rock and reggae. East Journey
Like their mentors, breakthrough band of the mid-80s Yothu Yindi, East Journey used traditional and modern instruments, and sing in local language and English. East Journey
They also share a respect and admiration for Bob Marley, showing the influence of his ideals and music. Archie Roach
With his musical roots in country, Indigenous singer-songwriter Archie Roach – one of the grand masters of Australian music – sings heart-rending tales of his experiences as one of Australia’s Stolen Generation, and of later years living rough. Lukas Nelson
The musical credentials of Lukas Nelson, son of American country icon Willie Nelson, are unquestionable. Lukas Nelson
Billed as “Cowboy Hippy Surf Rock”, Nelson, with his band Promise of the Real (POTR) and his brother Micah Nelson, provided backing for the legendary Neil Young on his last album and tour. The Wailers
It seemed fitting – in a festival where many of the Indigenous artists made reference to Bob Marley and his belief in the unity of African people worldwide – that the last set we participated in on our first day was The Wailers performing Exodus. Melvin Glover
Their distinctive reggae rhythms were a smooth and soothing end to the day … Dwayne “Danglin” Anglin and Cegee Victory
… as the whole crowd sang along to familiar and well-loved songs. As I said before: it is that depth of talent and range of styles that has us dancing ~
and keeps us coming back for more!
Keep smiling. 😀
Photos: 24-25March2016
Posted in Australia,Music,Performance,PortraitsTags: aboriginal,Australia,Byron Bay Bluesfest,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,indigenous,music,musicians,people,performance,performers,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Casper the Woodford Owl
The Owl Centre in Kington, Herefordshire, gives unequalled access to these beautiful nocturnal birds of prey. Winter in England can be grim: cold, wet, and dark early.
Finding something to do outdoors with young people in inclement weather can be tricky. I was staying in Hereford late last winter and had friends coming to visit me. I wasn’t sure what they would be interested in, so I sent them a list of options and was thrilled when they decided on an afternoon at the Small Breeds Farm Park and Owl Centre in Kington, about forty minutes northeast of Hereford.
I love animals and animal sanctuaries (as regular visitors to these pages will know; e.g.: Potoroo Palace; Durrell Wildlife Park; The Two Tarongas; Gunung Leuser Orangutangs), so any excuse to visit a new one is fine by me. And of course, owls are special: they feature in the myths and legends of many cultures. Symbols of wisdom in the books I read as a child, they were omens of death to the Native Americans around me.
Predominantly nocturnal, owls are also elusive. I have only ever once seen one in the wild: a large powerful owl (Ninox strenua) had decided to perch just over the boardwalk where my husband and I walk daily. The experience left us hushed and awestruck.
There is, of course, the dilemma of keeping animals in captivity. Many of the owls at the centre are rescued animals, while others are hand reared. Certainly, having them under-cover on a rainy English afternoon made them accessible.
Small Breeds Farm Park and Owl Centre
The winter sun was angling low in the sky and the shadows were already long by the time we arrived rather late in the afternoon. Sebastopol Geese
With their long, white, curly feathers, the geese scrabbling for food in the yard are an arresting sight. Sebastopol Geese are a heritage breed, thought to originate in Central Europe. Casper the Woodford Owl
Casper, an African wood-owl (Strix woodfordii), was born and hand-reared here at the Owl Centre, … Casper the Woodford Owl
… and now greets visitors as they enter the park. Teatowel the Barn Owl
Barn owls (Tyto alba) are one of the most widespread of all birds. If “Midsomer Murders” is anything to go by, they are commonly seen and heard in the English woods. Numpy the Milky Eagle Owl
Verreaux’s eagle-owl, also known as the milky eagle owl or giant eagle owl, (Bubo lacteus) is the largest of the African owls. Petting Numpy
The signposting tells us who likes being petted; Numpy who was hatched here in 1996, is a fan of a neck scratch. Numpy the Milky Eagle Owl
He truly is a glorious creature with his blue beak and fluffy ear-tufts. Young Lad and the Baby Pygmy Goat
Children just love small animals! Only adults are allowed to handle the owls – I suppose small fingers would be awfully tempting – but the baby pigmy goats are fair game. There are plenty of volunteer staff around to make sure the animals are handled gently. Goats-in-Waiting
They must have an endless supply of baby animals! The doe grazing while baby kids gambol was heavily pregnant, and due any day. Baby Pygmy Goats Billy Pygmy Goat
Midas, the Papa pygmy goat has a wonderful, classic beard. Old English Goat
Who knew there were so many breeds? The old English billy, with his long face and long horns … Golden Guernsey Goats
… has little appearance in common with the inquisitive golden Guernseys! Golden Guernsey Goat
All the goats look forward to being hand-fed, but the Guernseys behave as if they’re truly going hungry – an impression belied by their full, round bellies! Cashmere Goats Girl with a Guinea Pig
In another area, very small animals like mice, and rabbits, and Guinea pigs run around their pens – or come out to delight the visiting children. Red Squirrel
The red squirrel or Eurasian red squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris) is a tree squirrel that was once common throughout Eurasia. In England they are now under threat from habitat loss and competition from introduced American grey squirrels. Alpaca
Alpaca (Lama pacos) are still out in the wet paddocks … Feeding the Alpaca
… waiting for a last feed in the late afternoon before the park closes for the day.  You can’t beat kids and baby animal –
It was a winter afternoon well spent!
Happy Rambling!
Photos: 07March2015
Posted in Animals,Great Britain,Nature,TravelTags: animal park,animal sanctuary,animals,bird,children,England,environmental portrait,Great Britain,nature,Photo Blog,portrait,travel,Travel Blog,uk,Ursula Wall
Autumn Flower and Punakha Dzong
Autumn (September-November) is one of two high-seasons for tourists in Bhutan – and for good reason: the skies are clear, the days are warm and sunny, and the colours are bright. “The palace of great happiness or bliss.”
That is how Pungtang Dechen Photrang Dzong translates from Bhutanese.
Also known as Punakha Dzong, it has been an auspicious fortress for many years. Punakha Dzong was the seat of the Government of Bhutan until they moved the capitol to Thimphu in 1955. It is still the administrative centre for the Punakha District, and houses a number of precious religious relics.
According to legend, this dzong, or place-fortress, was predicted by Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), the founder of Tibetan Buddhism. He is reputed to have said that: ‘…a person named Namgyal will arrive at a hill that looks like an elephant’. When Ngawang Namgyal, a Tibetan lama, found the elephant-like hill at the confluence of the rivers Pho (father) Chu and Mo (mother) Chu in the Punakha–Wangdue Valley, he built the dzong as foretold.
Constructed between 1637 and 1638, Punakha Dzong is the second oldest and second largest dzong in the kingdom. It is considered one of the most beautiful and is a joy to explore.
I was there late on a beautiful September afternoon in 2009 as part of a group with photographers Gavin Gough and Jackie Rado. Spring and Autumn are high tourist-seasons in Bhutan, and we were not the only photo-group in the ancient building; keeping other photographers out of my pictures was one of the challenges I faced as I wandered around and marvelled at this architectural wonder.
Doing Homework
Across the river from Punakha Dzong, senior high-school students are doing their mathematics homework. I can’t see the elephant trunk myself, but it is a gorgeous view! Doing Homework
The young men, in their final year of high school, were a delight to chat with: thoughtful and articulate, with reasonable English. Punakha Dzong Entry Bridge Bhutanese School Girls Monk Walking
The interior of the dzong is beautifully decorated… Monks Walking
… with carved woodwork, colourfully painted. Banister Detail
The carved and painted details around the dzong are rich in eight-spoked wheels and other Buddhist symbolism. Venerable Monk Young Monk Lattice and Lace Security Officer
People stand in angle-lit doorways… Young Monk
… as if they are just waiting to be photographed. Chorten and Bhodi Tree
In the northern courtyard, a sacred bodhi tree is growing in front of a huge white chorten. Venerable Monk
I cautiously worked my way into where two monks were conversing… Venerable Monk
… so I could gain permission, wordlessly, to take photos of them. Guides Chatting
In their gho -traditional knee-length robes – and kabneys – silk shawls – two guides chat. Old Wood and New Locks
Roof Detail Guru Rinpoche in an Alcove Monks in Late Afternoon Light Three Sisters
Local children pose spontaneously together as I cross over the bridge again … Monk Saying his Prayers
In the late afternoon, a Venerable walks rounds with his prayer beads. Following the Hills
… and we leave the temple. Pungtang Dechen Photrang Dzong was the first major dzong I visited – and exploring it was, indeed, cause for “great happiness or bliss”.
Till next time ~
Mettā
Photographic notes: pictures taken 25September2009 with my old Canon EOS 400D – edited in Lightroom 5.
Posted in Architecture,Bhutan,Portraits,TravelTags: architecture,Bhutan,blog,buddhism,buddhist,dzong,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,people,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,religion,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,worship
At Litli Geysir
Iceland is home to the first geysers known to modern Europeans. A trip to the geysers in the country’s southwest is an integral part of ‘The Golden Circle’: Iceland’s most popular tourist itinerary. Iceland, that tiny Nordic island nation in the North Atlantic, sits just barely outside the Arctic Circle and has more glacier-covered land than all of continental Europe. With a terrain that has been ground flat by successive periods of glaciation and rendered relatively tree-less by human predation, the winter landscape looks cold and white and eerily bleak from the air.
But, it is not all as cold as it looks.
The country sits across a rift in continental plates, resulting in a high concentration of volcanoes, hot springs, and geysers – and plenty of almost-free heating and electricity. In fact, about 87% of the heating for buildings and for hot water is geothermal, and approximately 26% of the country’s electricity comes from geothermal power plants.
The capital city Reykjavík (Old Norse for Bay of Smokes) was named for the white “smoke” rising from the hot springs in the area (see: Public Art, Reykjavík). Geysers are so prototypically Icelandic that the word itself came into English in the late 18th century from the Icelandic verb geysa, “to gush”.
The 300 kilometre (190 mile) circuit of highway known as ‘The Golden Circle’, the country’s most popular tour, comprises a visit to the geysers, and stops at the continental divide in the UNESCO-listed Þingvellir National Park and the world-famous Gullfoss waterfall. We combined the tour – which starts and finishes in Reykjavík,with a trip to the naturally-heated Blue Lagoon near the Keflavik Airport, and made a full day of it.
Come along and enjoy Iceland’s unique volcanic landscape.
Morning Light on Lake Tjörnin
Our bus tour starts with a crossing through Reykjavík itself, driving past the partially-frozen Lake Tjörnin in the early morning light. (iPhone6) Snowy Landscape
As soon as the city is behind us, the view across the Reykjanes Peninsula from the bus windows is flat, snowy, and strewn with small rocks and large boulders. (iPhone6) Blue Lagoon Entry
Before long we arrive at our first stop: the Blue Lagoon geothermal spa. Bridge over the Blue Lagoon
The waters rise up through a lava field in Grindavík on the Reykjanes Peninsula: Blue Lagoon itself is man-made and fed by the water output of the nearby geothermal power plant. Blue Lagoon Visitors’ Building
The waters rise at between 37-40°C (98-104°F), steaming where they meet the cold (0°C; 32°F) air. Leaving the warm waters to reclaim your towel is an adventure! Blue Waters
The waters are a rich mix of silica, algae and minerals; it is sunlight reflecting off the silica that makes the water look blue. Blue Café
After a relaxing thermal bath, complete with mineral mud mask, it is important to re-hydrate. View from the Bus
The Golden Circle Tour runs northeast from Reykjavík … (iPhone) Snowy Power Lines
… through an open, snowy landscape … (iPhone) Þingvellir National Park
… into Thingvellir National Park. UNESCO-heritage listed since 2004 for both historic and geologic value, the park is the site of the world’s oldest legislative general assembly, Iceland’s Alþingi (literally: “all-thing”), established in 930. The park also straddles the Continental Divide: where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet. Down into the Divide
These plates are drifting apart at the rate of more than two centimetres per year. Here in Þingvellir National Park, a walkway leads into the gap, so visitors can functionally walk down between Europe and North America. There are other places nearby (e.g. the Silfra Canyon) where you can scuba dive or snorkel between the continents. Golden Circle Apartments
Back on the bus, the odd hotel complex stands out in the open landscape. (iPhone) Gullfoss Overlook
Our next stop is Gullfoss – “Golden Falls” – where a massive volume of water appears to simply disappear into a crevice. Down to the Gullfoss
The roar of the falls is deafening, and the force of the water causes splash and mist to rise all around. The Gullfoss
The two-tiered waterfall is quite magnificent – even in the cloudy, overcast conditions we were experiencing.
We escaped the cold and deafening noise and enjoyed our lunch in the on-site Gullfoss Café, which offers hearty hot soups and other food at reasonable (by Icelandic standards!) prices. At Geysir
The last stop on the circuit is at Haukadalur, home of Iceland’s most famous geysers: Geysir, Strokkur and Litli. Compared to the magnificent geysers in Yellowstone National Park in the USA (see: Old Faithful and Friends; Artist’s Paint Pots; and Mammoth Hot Springs), the geothermal activity here is extremely modest. Steam Rising
The walkway meanders past Litli Geysir (Little Geyser), around steam vents and mud pools, … Strokkur – “Churn”
… and on to Strokkur. Eruptions at Great Geysir across the road can be unpredictable, and have even stopped for years at a time. Strokkur Erupting
Strokkur, on the other hand, erupts reliably every 3-8 minutes, shooting to heights of up to 30 metres. Litli Geysir
Litli Geysir lives up to it’s name: “Little Geyser”. Hotel Litli Geysir
Tourist accommodation sits near the geysers in the winter landscape. Vatnsleysufoss: Faxi Waterfall
On the long drive back to Reykjavík, the tour buses stop briefly at one more waterfall.
If I had been able to chose, I would have picked better weather – but it was an interesting, enjoyable, and informative day, and one I’d recommend to anyone in Iceland for a short visit.
‘Till next time – Happy Rambling!
Photos: 18March2015
Posted in Iceland,Nature,TravelTags: blog,Iceland,landscape,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
« Older posts
Newer posts »
|
.jpg)
Ursula, It’s wonderful to see these images! Thanks for sharing, they bring back great memories of our trip! Always enjoy your blog posts….keep them coming! Cheers, Karl
Thanks for your visit, Karl! It’s always great travelling with you. ?