Sunburst over the Pontoks More than a 100 million years of wind erosion have acted on an ancient, collapsed volcano to carve out some extraordinary granite-rock shapes – shapes that rise high out of the surrounding flat expanse that is the Namib Desert.
The Spitzkoppe, meaning “pointed dome” in German, is a granite massif rising out of the flat Namib Desert – a plain of gravel and sand that extends to the Atlantic Ocean a hundred miles away on Namibia’s west coast. Part of the Erongo Mountains, Spitzkoppe is the remains of a gigantic volcano which collapsed more than a 100 million years ago when the ancient continent of Gondwana was splitting into the continents of Africa, South America and Australia.
In a process referred to as inselberg (German for “island mountain”) formation, erosion of the softer outer layers of rock result in an isolated rock hill, knob, ridge, or small mountain that rises abruptly from a gently sloping or virtually level surrounding plain. The resulting granite formations are abundant in southern and south-central Africa, where they are commonly called koppie, an Afrikaans word meaning “little head”, from the Dutch word kopje.
The sunrises and sunsets are meant to be especially beautiful in the summer months. Even though it was the wrong season, and as much as I don’t like mornings, having dragged my tripod across four continents to get to Namibia, I was determined to take in the morning light.
Spitzkoppe in the Pre-Dawn Light When my alarm went off, all around me was dark. With a cloudless sky and no moon, my head-lamp and torch were the only lights, and they found little purchase in the gravel paths and thorny bushes. Even though I had checked out locations the day before, I made several wrong turns into blind alleys in the rock formations before clambering, with cameras and a tripod, up to the Rock Bridge.
Granite Peaks The pre-dawn winter light over the plains and peaks in the Spitzkoppe area is clear and cold, affording slowly emerging views over the Pontoks as they rise out of the Namib Desert.
Spitzkoppe on the Plain Slowly, pink light creeps over the horizon.
Spitzkoppe through the Rocks Morning light warms the granite of Spitzkoppe – but most of the landscape remains in shadow.
Spitzkoppe through the Rocks Moment by moment, the light changes. I am glad to have the tripod, so that I can take the long exposures necessary to find subtle colours and details in the low light.
Spitzkoppe and Pontoks from the Rock Bridge As the sun rises higher in the sky, I climb up and under the Rock Bridge to get a better view.
Pontoks from the Rock Bridge Like specks on the rocky outcrop, two of my companion photographers stand with their tripods. (iPhone 6)
Spitzkoppe from the Rock Bridge
Behind the Rock Bridge Gradually, the light works over the surrounding mountains and starts to angle across the other granite rock formations.
Sunrise over Spitzkoppe and the Pontoks
Desert Bush An inselberg, or koppie, traps wind-blown soils and moisture, so many plants which can’t survive on the almost-barren plains grow there. Spitzkoppe’s desert vegetation clings to life, thorny and tough.
Creatures in the Morning Light Wind erosion over the millennia has given rise to a number of bizarre rock formations. I kept coming back to this grouping which made me think of rabbits and puppies.
African Mourning Dove (Streptopelia decipiens) Back at the campsite, a mourning dove sits in a thorn tree while we have breakfast.
Mother and Child Before long, the light is too strong for landscapes, and the day turns hot. We break camp, and stop at the “craft” stands before we leave the area.
Young Girl with Attitude Children from the local Damara community are on hand to talk to tourists and help sell the mobiles made from scrap tin, cloth bags sourced from elsewhere, and gems collected from the surrounding mountains.
Girl with Apples This area has very limited water resources …
Girl with Orange … so the children appreciate the fruit Ben has brought for them.
Damara Man This 47-year-old husband and grandfather cuts animal shapes for mobiles from bits of jagged tin.
Damara Woman His 44-year-old wife – who is wearing Himba ochre on her face as sunscreen – paints and strings them.
Damara Boy Their grandson watches the visitors solemnly. The lands here were expropriated (with compensation) from their Afrikaans owners in 1964 and resettled with Damara families in 1970. Recently – in addition to eking out a living livestock-farming and selling crafts to passing tourists – part of the community has taken over management of the campsite.
Mother and Child It is clearly not an easy livelihood…
Young Girl … but the kids are bright and sassy.
I always have mixed feelings chatting with the children at these remote outposts about their schooling and their dreams. They are lively and engaging, and clearly part of a larger community. But, their access to formal education and their ability to make choices is sorely compromised. Private investment in local resources can clash with traditional values, and communities can become divided over decision-making processes. The community here is facing issues over land and water management. Who knows how it will play out over time.
I can only wish these youngsters luck in the future ~
And hope someone continues to bring them bits of fresh fruit in the meantime.
[…] northerly part, with its clear skies (see: A Sky Full of Stars) and dramatic rocky outcrops (see: Morning over Spitzkoppe), leaving the ocean and the sand dunes behind […]ReplyCancel
the desert images are spectacular. the boulders’shapes and vegetation makes it look like huge prehistoric animals are still living there. Congratultions!!!
RutiReplyCancel
Fish Seller with a Cheroot The morning markets of Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar are a rich feast for the senses.
Burmese markets are a feast for the senses: the angled light sneaking in through slatted bamboo walls and streaming under tent canopies and corrugated tin roofs; the riotous colours of freshly picked vegetables; the rich smells of packed dirt floors, freshly cut meat, and frying spices. In the stillness of dark corners and oppressive tropical heat, vendors sit on low tables, surrounded by their wares, working and waiting.
It’s the waiting that amazes me: that ability to sit quietly, with no signs of impatience, when nothing is happening. This sense of time stretching endlessly alternates with periods of chaotic business, when jostling customers come in clumps, to pick through the goods and to haggle. Money changes hands, and people laugh and smile and gossip.
One of the (many) things I love about Asian markets is how people take for granted the stranger in their midst. Completely unselfconsciously, they either engage and allow themselves to be photographed, or they go about their business, paying the many interlopers no heed. For I was not alone in the morning market at Nyaung Shwe: somewhere amongst the crowds in the complex were at least nine other photography enthusiasts, photographer Karl Grobl and local guide Mr MM.
I love taking time in markets making portraits of people – and I love how the rich environment helps tell a story about the subjects’ lives.
Boy and his Grandma Morning markets are full of people willing to be photographed; …
Boy in Thanaka Powder … the biggest challenge is the light.
Vegetables The vegetable displays are a feast of colours and textures.
“Fast Food” Ready-prepared meals are available – rich and spicy, with lots of chilies.
Woman in the Vegetables
Fish Seller with a Cheroot The fish is freshly caught, and the smiles are free.
Portrait of a Fish Seller Thanaka powder, made from ground bark, is meant to highlight beauty and prevent sunburn, as well as to help cure acne and keep skin smooth.
Young Boy in Thanaka Children are especially pleased to smile for the stranger.
Hilltribe Woman The morning light pours between the buildings in the market complex …
Hilltribe Woman and Child … as a grower bundles her onions …
Boy in a Cap … and her handsome son watches quietly.
Woman with a Flower
Exit Doorway Walking out of the dim market buildings takes one “into the light”.
Young Man at the Coffee Shop Just across from the market buildings is a well-placed coffee shop.
Burmese “Barista”
Man with Coffee The coffee itself is rich with flavour, and the customers are full of character.
Two Men and their Coffee Most of the tables in the shop are occupied: breakfast is a serious business.
Two Men Against the bright light of the outside world, friends meet.
Man with Coffee
Sharing a Laugh
Two Women In the darker corners, there are stories to be told.
Morning Coffee I thoroughly enjoyed my coffee break before moving on to the rest of my day.
These are beautiful. You are correct, the lighting is wonderful. These images bring back sights and “smellls” of my experience with the same duo of Karl and MM. You captured the market scene so well.
RutiReplyCancel
Vineyards All around the Hunter Valley, the vines grow in tidy rows under an autumn sky. (14April2014)
The Hunter Valley is one of Australia’s major wine-growing regions.
Pokolbin, less than 200 km north of Sydney, is the centre of the Hunter Valley Wine Country, and a popular destination for weekend getaways and short breaks. With well over 100 vineyards – most with cellar door sales and tastings, and many hosting weddings, musical performances, or conferences – the area boasts restaurants, boutique shops, golf courses, and country guesthouses.
We were lucky enough to be staying in “The Hunter” last week. My husband was attending a regional conference in Pokolbin and I got to tag along for the social schedule and copious wine.
I was looking forward to days among the vines. Unfortunately, a month before we headed north I tore a ligament and broke a leg. As a consequence, instead of taking myself off on exploratory field trips, I spent my days in our room before hobbling down for conference dinners.
All was not lost, however. During those long days, I sat with my leg elevated, reviewing photos I took during our two trips to the Hunter last year.
Hunter Beer Co. It isn’t all about the wine. More and more craft breweries are popping up in the area. (13April2014)
Magnolia – – – a restored 1920s brick microbrewery set in spacious landscaped gardens. (13April2014)
Beer Taps It is Australian custom that all beer served be icy cold. (13April2014)
Checking the Beer Potters Brewery offers a short guided tour of the beer-brewing equipment. (13April2014)
“Jack the Bar Guy” Our guide explains the beer-making process …
Tubes and Wires … and lets us into the cooler…
Pulling Beer … before giving everyone samples of the different brews. (13April2014)
Sunset Beer Selfie The shiny beer kegs at the back of the brewery reflect my husband and myself – and the afternoon sun over the landscape. (13April2014)
Grey-Crowned Babbler – Pomatostomus Temporals Birds scrabble around in the ground outside our room. (14April2014)
Tourist Shops Wine-tasting tours often include a stop at the Hunter Valley Gardens, where there are delightful gift shops, …
Lilies … coffee shops and restaurants, and (of course) gardens. (14April2014)
Water for Wine The water jugs are full, and the wine glasses are empty: ready for the tasting at the Tamburlaine Cellar Door. (14April2014)
Cheese Lady Our next stop is at the “Smelly Cheese Shop”, where we get to taste-test a number of delicious products. (14April2014)
Tempus Two Looking back over the bowl that the architecturally designed Tempus Two presides over, it is easier to see how concerts with world-class performers can be accommodated here. (14April2014)
Galahs in the Vines (14April2014)
Vines in the Garden The Ernest Hill Wines estate is set in a lovely garden. (iPhone5 – 14April2014)
Water and Wine The water, glasses, and tasting notes are ready for us…
Wine Master … and before long, the wine master appears to introduce us to the wines and the Hill family traditions. (14April2014)
Workboots Nothing says “country” like workboots at the entry. Vinden Estate(11October2014)
Pouring McGuigan … for our hostess to pour out generous samples. (11October2014)
Sun in the Vines The sun rises high in the sky over the spring growth… (iPhone5 – 11October2014)
Sunset in the Vines … before setting over the vineyards and the surrounding mountains – signalling the end of another Hunter Valley break. (iPhone5 – 11October2014)
It’s a great area to visit – the wine just makes it better.
Gypsy Mother Is there anywhere in the world where people strike poses more naturally and spontaneously than in India?
Rajasthan, in Northern India, is a sensory banquet.
I love the colour.
I even love the chaos and the heat.
But, most of all, I love the photogenic nature of the people. Most seem completely un-hurried, with an internal stillness I can’t help but admire. Every-which-way you turn, you will find people draped in doorways or lounging in lanes. In their vividly colourful clothing, they contrast wildly with their surrounds. I tilt the lens of my camera and make eye-contact, gaining wordless permission to make a photograph. Or, I chat (with or without a language in common) with people who take selfies with their arms around me; I have just become someone’s new best friend.
My last trip to India’s north was in November 2013, in a small group with photographer Karl Grobl and local expert DV Singh. After a morning with tripods on a cold Jaisalmer rooftop (Jaisalmer Morning), Karl let us loose on our own inside Jaisalmer Fort.
It was, of course, a photographic feast.
Sun Rising over the Fort Built in 1156, the UNESCO listed Jaisalmer Fort is a beautiful structure and one of the largest fortifications in the world.
Tightrope Walker The ancient walls provide a magnificent backdrop to the life inside.
Concentration The young boy walking high above the ground concentrates …
Acrobat’s Mother … as his proud mother watches on.
The Boys A group of boys hang around watching the tightrope walker and the tourists.
Gypsy Musicians In an entryway, Rajasthani gypsy musicians entertain…
Beautiful Gypsy … and sell jewellery …
Rajasthani Dolls … and trinkets.
Young Salesman Inside the courtyard of the fort, salespeople sit waiting for customers …
Woman Carrying … while residents go about their business.
House in the Fort The fortress walls enclose homes and shopfronts.
Woman in the Fort
Inside the Hindu Temple A priest sits in a prayer alcove …
Family at the Temple … as a young family comes to pay their respects.
“Use Me” There are nooks and crannies…
Inside the Fort … and alleyways …
Old Jaisalmer House-Front … leading to houses …
Cannon over Jaisalmer … and to a stairway to one of the towers that overlooks the Golden City.
Tourists at the Fort
Crowd in the Market Back down from the gun-tower, the streets are crowded with markets and tourists.
Girlfriends These young women are on holidays together from a nearby state.
Saleswoman A saleswoman spruiks her wares, …
Painting Postcards … a man paints used postcards for re-sale, …
Women on the Stoop … and local woman sit and gossip.
Brahman Cow Down another laneway, I manage to get past a brahman cow, …
Kids in a Corner … only to come across two young girls who appear to be living in a cubbyhole.
Kid in a Corner The younger of the two girls was bright and engaging and seemed to be the protector.
Kid in a Corner As far as I could tell from broken discussions with a neighbouring resident, the mother of these girls had fallen on hard times.
Kids in a Corner So, I gave the girls a few rupee in the hope it will be well spent.
Man and Son Back in the courtyard, a man pauses to pose with his son…
Women in the Courtyard … as do three friends on a day out …
Man and Child … and another man with his child.
Father and Children As I leave the fort, one of the things that strikes me is how many of the groupings I have photographed are friends and family.
Friends and family. Nice!
What makes Northern India so satisfying is that feeling that there is a presence underneath the easy smiles: a faith in ones own values, with no need to impose those values on others.
This is part of what makes for such a good experience.
Great photos Ursula, and great timing too, as I’m heading there to start this year’s tour very soon. I seem to recall a ceremony that took place in your hotel room involving fire and smoke 🙂 ah, the memories. Always awesome to travel with you and I always enjoy reliving the trips through your images and words. Thanks for sharing everything through your blog. Cheers, KarlReplyCancel
Black Hat Dancer In the “Shana Cham” –or “Black Hat Dance” –the dancers represent powerful yogis who can destroy and create life: Wangduephodrang Tsechu, Wangduephodrang, Bhutan.
Over the last few weeks, Bhutan, that Haven of Happiness, has been making an appearance in my various electronic news feeds and re-asserting itself into my consciousness. In part, this is because it was around this time of year, six years ago, that I visited.
I was in this beautiful Himalayan Kingdom for two weeks in September 2009, as part of a tour with photographers Gavin Gough and Jackie Rado. We traveled across Western and Central Bhutan in a bus, with our stops timed to coincide with major tsechus (Dzongkha: ཚེས་བཅུ།, literally “day ten”) – annual religious festivals grounded in Tibetan Buddhism. Between three- and five-days long, the festivals comprise a program of Cham dances: costumed, masked dances that depict religious history and moral teachings. Accompanied by percussion instruments, the rhythmic dances are considered a form of meditation and an offering to the gods; they bring merit to participants and audience alike.
The first festival we attended was at Wangduephodrang Dzongkhag Dzong(the “Administrative Fortress” of Wangduephodrang) in Central Bhutan. This is the same temple-fort which made the international press when it burnt to the ground in June 2012. The loss of the original wooden landmark, built between 1638 and 1639, was considered a great tragedy and cause for national mourning. Reconstruction – in the original style but with modern amenities and fire-safety measures – started early 2014 and is expected to be completed by December 2018. In the mean time, the annual Wangduephodrang Tshechu has been held at the nearby Tencholing Army Ground.
So, we were very luck to be there to appreciate the tshechu in its age-old setting.
There are just a few rules to observe for visitors in this very traditional culture: covered arms and legs are expected inside the temple grounds, and no hats are allowed.
Mist in the Valley It’s a beautiful September morning over the Puna Tsang ChuValley in Wangduephodrang, Central Bhutan. The weather should be fine for the tshechu.
The Audience Inside Wangduephodrang Dzongkhag Dzong, villagers in their best traditional dress are already seated on mats on the ground in the courtyard. The morning sun is still throwing long shadows, but the temperature is already rising.
Venerable Monk The crowd in the courtyard range from the elderly …
Hot Baby … to the very young, …
Young Girl … all dressed in their brocaded finery with snacks at the ready.
Getting Dressed Behind the scenes, dancers get into their elaborate costumes …
The Eye in the Eye … most of which have macabre masks.
Stag Practicing Back-Bends Other dancers limber up back stage …
“Shawa Shachi” … before performing elaborate dances that tell stories …
“Dance of the Stag and Hunter” … of the battle between Ugyen Rimpoche and the King of the Wind.
Black Hat Dancers The black hat dancers feature in a number of the cham dances.
Black Hat : Orange Pants They represent yogis who protect the good in the world and destroy evil.
Black Hat : Red Boots One of their dances portrays victory over a Tibetan king who tried to destroy Buddhism.
Black Hat : Green Brocade Their elaborate outfits swirl around them …
Black Hat Dancer … as they dip and sway, trancelike, …
Black Hat Dancer … in their rhythmic dances.
Inside Wangduephodrang Temple Attending a tshechu gives the watchers blessings and washes away their sins.
Fearsome Animal An ornately dressed dancer in his red mask and horns represents an animal.
Black Hat Dancer The different black hat dances have different rhythms and steps, …
Black Apron … and signify different stories – not that I could recognise which was which.
Spidermen at the Tshechu In a wonderful “clash of cultures”, these boys, wearing Gho (traditional knee-length robes), have their own version of masks to enter the spirit of the dance.
Atsara the “Transcendental Clown” Not all the dances are serious. The Atsara is a clown with a red wooden mask with a big phallus on top. This one seems to be chasing a tiger.
Watching from the Doorway The day grows hotter and spectators cling to small patches of shade as they watch the ongoing dances.
Wangduephodrang Dzongkhag Dzong As I head into the ancient structure and up old wooden stairs, I can’t help but admire the building’s intricate details.
Wolf-Creature The sun gets higher, and more and more wild creatures come out.
Handsome Father
Handsome Son
Black Hat Motion The next group of Black Hat dancers come out …
Black Hat in Motion … swirling in a blur of colour …
Black Hat Motion … and banging their drums.
Old Woman in Pink The building’s soft furnishings are as colourful as the clothing worn by the attendees.
Like a Dream And, the dances continue…
Black Hat Dancers … with countless players. Because so many masked dancers are needed, registered dancers can be fined if they refuse to perform during festivals.
Bhutan is a conservative country, and was closed to international tourists until 1974 – when 300 people visited. Although I was one of 23,480 tourists in 2009, and there were many non-Bhutanese people at the tshechu we attended, I still felt exceedingly privileged to be there. I remember the heat from the unremitting sun beating on my bare head, and the noise from the constant clash of drums assaulting my ears, but I was aware that I was witnessing a tradition that dates back to the 8th and 9th century, when Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche), the father of Tibetan Buddhism, recited mantras and performed rites and dances to conquer local spirits and gods – and to convert opponents of Buddhism.
It is always interesting to return to old photos. Reliving the memories is wonderful – but, as I look at pictures taken so many years ago, I can appreciate how much I have learned about photography and about my equipment since then.
It just makes me want to go back and do it all again!
Till then ~
Happy travels!
Photographic notes: pictures taken 26September2009 with my old Canon EOS 400D – edited in Lightroom 5.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
I can only wish these youngsters luck in the future ~
It’s a great area to visit – the wine just makes it better.
This is part of what makes for such a good experience.
It just makes me want to go back and do it all again!
[…] northerly part, with its clear skies (see: A Sky Full of Stars) and dramatic rocky outcrops (see: Morning over Spitzkoppe), leaving the ocean and the sand dunes behind […]
Ursula,
the desert images are spectacular. the boulders’shapes and vegetation makes it look like huge prehistoric animals are still living there. Congratultions!!!
Ruti
Thanks, Ruti – it IS an amazing landscape!