 Autumn Flower and Punakha Dzong
Autumn (September-November) is one of two high-seasons for tourists in Bhutan – and for good reason: the skies are clear, the days are warm and sunny, and the colours are bright. “The palace of great happiness or bliss.”
That is how Pungtang Dechen Photrang Dzong translates from Bhutanese.
Also known as Punakha Dzong, it has been an auspicious fortress for many years. Punakha Dzong was the seat of the Government of Bhutan until they moved the capitol to Thimphu in 1955. It is still the administrative centre for the Punakha District, and houses a number of precious religious relics.
According to legend, this dzong, or place-fortress, was predicted by Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), the founder of Tibetan Buddhism. He is reputed to have said that: ‘…a person named Namgyal will arrive at a hill that looks like an elephant’. When Ngawang Namgyal, a Tibetan lama, found the elephant-like hill at the confluence of the rivers Pho (father) Chu and Mo (mother) Chu in the Punakha–Wangdue Valley, he built the dzong as foretold.
Constructed between 1637 and 1638, Punakha Dzong is the second oldest and second largest dzong in the kingdom. It is considered one of the most beautiful and is a joy to explore.
I was there late on a beautiful September afternoon in 2009 as part of a group with photographers Gavin Gough and Jackie Rado. Spring and Autumn are high tourist-seasons in Bhutan, and we were not the only photo-group in the ancient building; keeping other photographers out of my pictures was one of the challenges I faced as I wandered around and marvelled at this architectural wonder.
 Doing Homework
Across the river from Punakha Dzong, senior high-school students are doing their mathematics homework. I can’t see the elephant trunk myself, but it is a gorgeous view!  Doing Homework
The young men, in their final year of high school, were a delight to chat with: thoughtful and articulate, with reasonable English.  Punakha Dzong Entry Bridge Bhutanese School Girls Monk Walking
The interior of the dzong is beautifully decorated… Monks Walking
… with carved woodwork, colourfully painted. Banister Detail
The carved and painted details around the dzong are rich in eight-spoked wheels and other Buddhist symbolism. Venerable Monk Young Monk Lattice and Lace Security Officer
People stand in angle-lit doorways… Young Monk
… as if they are just waiting to be photographed. Chorten and Bhodi Tree
In the northern courtyard, a sacred bodhi tree is growing in front of a huge white chorten. Venerable Monk
I cautiously worked my way into where two monks were conversing… Venerable Monk
… so I could gain permission, wordlessly, to take photos of them. Guides Chatting
In their gho -traditional knee-length robes – and kabneys – silk shawls – two guides chat. Old Wood and New Locks
Roof Detail Guru Rinpoche in an Alcove Monks in Late Afternoon Light Three Sisters
Local children pose spontaneously together as I cross over the bridge again … Monk Saying his Prayers
In the late afternoon, a Venerable walks rounds with his prayer beads. Following the Hills
… and we leave the temple. Pungtang Dechen Photrang Dzong was the first major dzong I visited – and exploring it was, indeed, cause for “great happiness or bliss”.
Till next time ~
Mettā
Photographic notes: pictures taken 25September2009 with my old Canon EOS 400D – edited in Lightroom 5.
Posted in Architecture,Bhutan,Portraits,TravelTags: architecture,Bhutan,blog,buddhism,buddhist,dzong,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,people,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,religion,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,worship
At Litli Geysir
Iceland is home to the first geysers known to modern Europeans. A trip to the geysers in the country’s southwest is an integral part of ‘The Golden Circle’: Iceland’s most popular tourist itinerary. Iceland, that tiny Nordic island nation in the North Atlantic, sits just barely outside the Arctic Circle and has more glacier-covered land than all of continental Europe. With a terrain that has been ground flat by successive periods of glaciation and rendered relatively tree-less by human predation, the winter landscape looks cold and white and eerily bleak from the air.
But, it is not all as cold as it looks.
The country sits across a rift in continental plates, resulting in a high concentration of volcanoes, hot springs, and geysers – and plenty of almost-free heating and electricity. In fact, about 87% of the heating for buildings and for hot water is geothermal, and approximately 26% of the country’s electricity comes from geothermal power plants.
The capital city Reykjavík (Old Norse for Bay of Smokes) was named for the white “smoke” rising from the hot springs in the area (see: Public Art, Reykjavík). Geysers are so prototypically Icelandic that the word itself came into English in the late 18th century from the Icelandic verb geysa, “to gush”.
The 300 kilometre (190 mile) circuit of highway known as ‘The Golden Circle’, the country’s most popular tour, comprises a visit to the geysers, and stops at the continental divide in the UNESCO-listed Þingvellir National Park and the world-famous Gullfoss waterfall. We combined the tour – which starts and finishes in Reykjavík,with a trip to the naturally-heated Blue Lagoon near the Keflavik Airport, and made a full day of it.
Come along and enjoy Iceland’s unique volcanic landscape.
Morning Light on Lake Tjörnin
Our bus tour starts with a crossing through Reykjavík itself, driving past the partially-frozen Lake Tjörnin in the early morning light. (iPhone6) Snowy Landscape
As soon as the city is behind us, the view across the Reykjanes Peninsula from the bus windows is flat, snowy, and strewn with small rocks and large boulders. (iPhone6) Blue Lagoon Entry
Before long we arrive at our first stop: the Blue Lagoon geothermal spa. Bridge over the Blue Lagoon
The waters rise up through a lava field in Grindavík on the Reykjanes Peninsula: Blue Lagoon itself is man-made and fed by the water output of the nearby geothermal power plant. Blue Lagoon Visitors’ Building
The waters rise at between 37-40°C (98-104°F), steaming where they meet the cold (0°C; 32°F) air. Leaving the warm waters to reclaim your towel is an adventure! Blue Waters
The waters are a rich mix of silica, algae and minerals; it is sunlight reflecting off the silica that makes the water look blue. Blue Café
After a relaxing thermal bath, complete with mineral mud mask, it is important to re-hydrate. View from the Bus
The Golden Circle Tour runs northeast from Reykjavík … (iPhone) Snowy Power Lines
… through an open, snowy landscape … (iPhone) Þingvellir National Park
… into Thingvellir National Park. UNESCO-heritage listed since 2004 for both historic and geologic value, the park is the site of the world’s oldest legislative general assembly, Iceland’s Alþingi (literally: “all-thing”), established in 930. The park also straddles the Continental Divide: where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet. Down into the Divide
These plates are drifting apart at the rate of more than two centimetres per year. Here in Þingvellir National Park, a walkway leads into the gap, so visitors can functionally walk down between Europe and North America. There are other places nearby (e.g. the Silfra Canyon) where you can scuba dive or snorkel between the continents. Golden Circle Apartments
Back on the bus, the odd hotel complex stands out in the open landscape. (iPhone) Gullfoss Overlook
Our next stop is Gullfoss – “Golden Falls” – where a massive volume of water appears to simply disappear into a crevice. Down to the Gullfoss
The roar of the falls is deafening, and the force of the water causes splash and mist to rise all around. The Gullfoss
The two-tiered waterfall is quite magnificent – even in the cloudy, overcast conditions we were experiencing.
We escaped the cold and deafening noise and enjoyed our lunch in the on-site Gullfoss Café, which offers hearty hot soups and other food at reasonable (by Icelandic standards!) prices. At Geysir
The last stop on the circuit is at Haukadalur, home of Iceland’s most famous geysers: Geysir, Strokkur and Litli. Compared to the magnificent geysers in Yellowstone National Park in the USA (see: Old Faithful and Friends; Artist’s Paint Pots; and Mammoth Hot Springs), the geothermal activity here is extremely modest. Steam Rising
The walkway meanders past Litli Geysir (Little Geyser), around steam vents and mud pools, … Strokkur – “Churn”
… and on to Strokkur. Eruptions at Great Geysir across the road can be unpredictable, and have even stopped for years at a time. Strokkur Erupting
Strokkur, on the other hand, erupts reliably every 3-8 minutes, shooting to heights of up to 30 metres. Litli Geysir
Litli Geysir lives up to it’s name: “Little Geyser”. Hotel Litli Geysir
Tourist accommodation sits near the geysers in the winter landscape. Vatnsleysufoss: Faxi Waterfall
On the long drive back to Reykjavík, the tour buses stop briefly at one more waterfall. 
If I had been able to chose, I would have picked better weather – but it was an interesting, enjoyable, and informative day, and one I’d recommend to anyone in Iceland for a short visit.
‘Till next time – Happy Rambling!
Photos: 18March2015
Posted in Iceland,Nature,TravelTags: blog,Iceland,landscape,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
Camel Thorn Trees in the Dunes
Namibia, the driest country in sub-saharan Africa, is home to one of the worlds oldest and largest deserts. Camel thorn trees (vachellia erioloba) are among the few specialised types of vegetation able to survive the extremely arid conditions. Namibia is big.
It doesn’t seem particularly big if you are looking at a map of continental Africa, but that is only because Africa is HUGE. Namibia is the 34th largest country in the world. And if your bottom is on a seat in a truck, and you are being driven almost 4000 kilometres in less than two weeks to take in the highlights, it feels really big.
I was travelling with photographer Ben McRae, Pedro Ferrão Patrício from Photoburst, Namibian guide Morne Griffiths, and four other photography enthusiasts across an amazing landscape.
Most of the roads we traversed were gravel: some well-graded, but others corrugated and potholed. The noise and jolting of a truck on a gravel road, especially in the heat, makes any distance feel longer. It was August, which might well be mid-winter, but the temperatures – which dropped to single digits overnight in the desert air – rose to over 30°C by mid-morning most days, baking our vehicle. The heat bounced off the sere landscape and the light angled into our windows. Any circulating air brought road dust and grit with it, sucking all the moisture out of one’s body. I hate to think what these roads must be like in summer!
Not only is Namibia large, it is the second (after Mongolia) least-densely populated country in the world. This has to be due to the desert climate: hot and dry with sparse and erratic rainfall. Only the very toughest plants and animals survive.
So, there is a lot of distance between towns; there are expansive tracts of empty space.
I tried to capture a “feel” for the countryside from my window – using my iPhone on those long stretches of road without stops – as we drove from the small, central capital city to a desert so expansive that it’s very name: “Namib”, means “vast place” in the local Khoekhoe or Nama language.
View from the Truck
Not even an hour south of the capital Windhoek and we are already on a quiet road in the middle of an almost empty countryside. (iPhone6) View from the Truck
Less than two hours from the capital we leave the pavement behind. The empty landscape rolls and bumps past, alternating with small, barren-looking villages with their collections of kids and goats and cows. It’s not yet mid-day, and it’s the middle of winter, but the bright light and stifling heat bounce off the truck windows. (iPhone6) “Private: No Entry”
Large tracts of land are fenced off – often with not a house or outbuilding in sight. (iPhone6) Tipped Truck
The rough roads take their toll. This truck had passed us not long before. “They are driving too fast!” observed Morne, our guide and driver. Sure enough, they took a bend too fast and spun out.
Fortunately, no one was seriously injured, but it took Morne and Ben some time to help the passengers out of their vehicle. We were a long way from anywhere: Morne climbed onto the cab to get a better phone signal so he could make the accident report for the unfortunate occupants. (iPhone6) Dunes in the Distance
Finally, after a long day in the vehicle, the dunes of Namib-Naukluft Park come into view in the distance. 10August2015 (iPhone6) Jeep Driver
Once inside the National Park, we transfer into jeeps for a 60km trip into the sand dunes… Dead Trees
… and then walk into the clay pans and the ancient sunburnt dead trees of Deadvlei (see: Portrait of a Tree). The Dunes of Namib-Naukluft Park
The next day, after an early-morning visit to Deadvlei (see: Dead Trees and Dunes) we are back in open-air jeeps bumping across the desert. Pied Crow (Corvus Albus)
As we wait for our truck, I admire the bird life; … Cape Sparrow (Passer Melanurus)
… it may not be exotic, … Tractrac Chat (Cercomela Tractrac)
… but it is full of character and entertaining to watch. Roadway
In the middle of the day, we head across the desert to set up our campsite for the night. The road through Namib-Naukluft Park stretches out before us. Fairy Circles
We stop for a look at the fairy circles that are common in the arid grasslands of the Namib desert. Until recently, these bare patches were thought to be endemic to the south west of Africa, but in 2004 similar rings were discovered in the Pilbara region, Western Australia. Morne
Our guide explains some of the theories about the as-yet unexplained circular barren patches. Ostrich (Struthio Camelus)
The dry landscape is home to giant ostriches, who lope off as soon as we take an interest in them. Social Weavers (Philetairus Socius)
The common social weavers, on the other hand, pretty much ignore us as they move around their massive communal nest constructed from stiff grasses. Springbock (Antidorcas Marsupialis)
Pretty little springboks wander around the Sessrium Gates Campsite as we set up. (iPhone6) Dead Tree and Scrub
Life is tough in the Namib Desert; it gets less than 10 mm (0.39 in) of rain annually – and even this falls unpredictably. Sands and Bush
The desert dunes have their own personalities in the changing afternoon light. Golden Sands
Small shrubs cling to the shifting sands. Scrubby Bushes on the Dunes
On the crusty white clay pans, more vegetation grows. What little water is available here flows underground. Lines and Curves
The sun drops behind the dunes and the sand changes from orange to pink and purple as the winter afternoon light quickly falls-off. Sundown on the Dunes
We are treated to a multi-coloured sunset as we make our way back to the truck to return to our campsite for dinner.
Long distances and bumpy roads, true…
But well worth it to access this unique and magnificent landscape.
Till next time –
Happy travels!
Photos: 10-11August2015
Posted in Africa,Animals,Landscapes,NamibiaTags: bird,blog,desert,drive,driving,landscape,Namib desert,Namib-Naukluft,Namibia,Photo Blog,road trip,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Hereford Cathedral on the River Wye
The old market city of Hereford was granted a town charter in 1189 by Richard I of England, but has been recognised as a city since time immemorial. (26January2015, iPhone5) Everywhere you look in Hereford, in the British Midlands, you see history.
As a city it dates back to Saxon times, when the Bishop of Hereford was first installed some time between AD 676 and 688. But it has operated as a cross-roads market-town for as long as anyone can remember. Today, its historical buildings serve as reminders of those past eras.
Welcome to Hereford
An old pub sign for the Saracens Head hangs over St Martin’s Street just south of the historic Wye Bridge. Built in 1490 and widened in 1826, the Grade I-listed river crossing takes local traffic north into downtown Hereford.
A short distance up-river is the newer A49 highway bridge which is more of a thoroughfare; down-river is the Grade II-listed Victorian-built (1898) Victoria Footbridge. The Black Lion
On the other side of the Wye Bridge, we find the the Jacobean-fronted half-timber building that houses the Black Lion Pub. The Midlands is “Black and White” country (see: Medieval Ludlow), and a few of these distinctive buildings survive in Hereford itself. The Left Bank Gate
The old streets hide modern facilities like the newly re-conditioned Left Bank event venue. Gwynne Street
Narrow roadways lead into old Hereford city, … Hereford Cathedral
… past the gothic-style cathedral (built 1110-c.1250), and into the old town … High Town
The “Old House” on the town square was built in 1621 as part of what was once “Butchers’ Row”. This well-preserved timber-framed Jacobean building is surrounded by newer architecture. Pigeon on the “Old House” Roof Window into the Old House
The box-framed building has been a museum to Jacobean times since 1929, but is not open every day. I had to be satisfied with peeping at the period furnishings inside through the windows. Stained-Glass: All Saints, Church of England
The original All Saints Church dates from around 1200AD, but was damaged – probably by an earthquake. The existing building was completed about 1330. Re-opened in July 1997 after extensive repairs, the building is today a centre of arts, good-works, and worship in the middle of town. Entry to Hereford Cathedral
There is no better example of Hereford’s long, rich history than the older, grander, Hereford Cathedral. The current building dates from 1079 and stands on a site – overlooking the Wye River – where cathedrals have been since Saxon times. Magna Carta Exhibit
One of only four 1217 Magna Carta to survive is housed in Hereford Cathedral’s Chained Library. In 2015, the Cathedral organised exhibitions, displays, lectures, and special services to celebrate the 800th anniversary of this charter of legal rights.
Another precious treasure in the Cathedral is the Mappa Mundi, a medieval map of the world dating from the thirteenth century. Tomb of Bishop James Atlay
Largely reconstructed during Norman times (1110-c.1250,) the current gothic-style Cathedral contains a number of effigies, tombs and beautiful stained glass windows. The North Transept, for example, features a six-panel window designed around 1864 by Hardman and Co., leading manufacturers of stained glass windows at that time. The left half of the window depicts living Christians working towards their faith, while the right half shows those who are already in Heaven.
The beautiful marble effigy on the Tomb of Bishop James Atlay (1868–1894) in the foreground was carved by James Forsyth (1827–1910). Lady Chapel
The five stained glass panels of the East Window (1852) over the altar in the Lady Chapel tell the story of the life of Jesus. Pilgrims Prayers
“Each candle represents a pilgrims prayer.” The Mother
Votive candles are everywhere in the dark interior. Another set sits outside Audley Chapel, where the painting reads: “The Mother of God who points the Way.” Thomas Traherne Stained Glass Windows
Four new stained glass windows were designed and created in 2007 by international stained-glass artist Thomas Denny (b.1956) for the newly restored Audley Chapel. They illustrate stories from the writings of Thomas Traherne, MA (1636 or 1637 – 1674), Hereford’s most celebrated poet, clergyman, theologian, and religious writer. Eagle Lectern Golden Globe
From the lectern, you can see over the pews, through the arches and out into the light. Looking through the Choir Winter Window
Outside Hereford Cathedral, the winter chill has left the trees bare. Under the Hereford Corona
As evening approaches, Peter Dyke, Assistant Director of Music at Hereford Cathedral, discusses plans for Evensong with members of laity and clergy in the North Transept. Above them, the silver-gilt “Corona” representing Jesus’ crown of thorns, hangs suspended over the main alter. Designed and made by acclaimed silversmith Simon Beer, it was installed under the tower in 1992. Satin and Silk
Evensong over, I reenter the quickly-darkening streets to make my way out of the old city… … and back over the Wye River to the newer suburbs where the young families who link Hereford’s Saxon past and it’s modern future, live.
Happy Rambling!
Pictures: 06March2015
Posted in Architecture,Great Britain,History,Travel,UrbanTags: architecture,blog,Christian,christianity,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,worship
Vietnamese Dance of the Water Fairies
Wooden water-puppets dance for their small audience, Yên Đức Village, Vietnam. “What are water puppets?” asked one of our travel companions from Argentina. We were on a small bus from Hanoi to Halong, and had stopped in Yen Duc Village for a show and an early lunch.
“Ahhh, they are a unique local entertainment; you have to see them once.” I replied.
“But only once?” he responded, with a raised eyebrow. He was quick on the uptake.
My husband and I went to the Thang Long Water Puppetry Theatre in Hanoi many years ago – back when tickets were one American dollar for the hour-long program and a free CD of the music. We laughed and applauded wildly during the show, but I confess: I never listened to that CD again. For while the discordant clanging and banging is a perfect accompaniment to the humorous puppets, it is not the sort of thing I would listen to in the comfort of my own home!
Vietnamese water puppetry, or mua roi nuoc, dates back to the tenth or eleventh century when the folk stories were first performed in the communal ponds in the Red River Delta area of northern Vietnam. When the rice fields flooded, villagers entertained each with the puppet plays. Over time, the simple theatres of wood, bamboo and cloth developed into more permanent structures, the puppeteers became members of a special guild, and the character-puppets and their stories became codified.
Join me for some sights – I’ll spare you the sounds.
Tháp Rùa – Turtle Tower
We arrived very late into Old Hanoi – with only enough time to walk around Hồ Hoàn Kiếm, or the “Lake of the Returned Sword”, in the historical centre of the city before bed. (iPhone6) Chan Thien My
Next morning, we set off early; only the vegetable venders were up in the still-dark streets of Old Hanoi. Mid-morning, our van stopped at Sao Đỏ, roughly half-way between Hanoi and Halong. Chan Thien My
This large building houses – in addition to the coffee shop, gift shop, and toilets – an extensive workshop where adults with various disabilities work on beautiful long-stitch embroidered pictures. Hands at Work Delicate Stitches
Different embroidery stitches give the work texture. Gallery
The framed, finished products are quit beautiful. Sewing Table
The workshop also produces clothing – predominantly in silk – for sale to the passing tourists. Cobra and Scorpion Whiskey
Other local “specialities” are also for sale. Rice wine or whiskey bottled with snakes and scorpions is popular in Southeast Asia as an aphrodisiac and traditional medicine. “Mr Thay”
Outside in the carpark, the elderly security guard keeps an eye on our van and belongings. Yên Đức Rice Fields
Our next stop is just short of Halong, at the rural village of Yen Duc. Water Puppet Theatre
We seat ourselves on woven mats overlooking the small watery “stage”. The Musicians
The musicians enter, welcome us, and introduce themselves before the show starts. “Dance of the Dragons”
After the narrator, or Chu Teu, welcomes us, we are treated to a pair of frolicking dragons. Dragons or serpents feature repeatedly in Vietnamese lore: according to legend, the Viet people are descended from a dragon and a fairy! Men Cultivating Rice
The scenes or “stories” are quite short, and many depict activities from rural daily life. The narrator gives us an outline before each vignette. Women Cultivating Rice
We watch the whole rice-growing cycle, from plowing to planting and harvesting. The Phoenix Dance
This is another water-puppet standard: phoenixes symbolise noble love and fidelity. After an amorous courtship, an egg is produced – much to the audience’s amusement. This egg hatches as a little golden phoenix, and they all swim off together. Farmers and their Ducks
In another popular tale, a farming couple have to guard their precious ducks against marauding foxes. This “fox” looks more like a local civet, with his spots and his ability to climb trees! I’m not sure why Mrs Farmer has a cut-out top exposing her breasts. Dance of the Vietnamese Water Fairies
According to popular local legend, back in in 2800 BC, King Lac Long Quan, also known as the Dragon Father, married Au Co, the Fairy Mother. They gave birth to 100 eggs which hatched into 100 sons who became the ancestors of the “54 brotherly ethnic groups in Vietnam” and the Hung Vuong dynasty. Fishing
In another depiction of rural life, puppets show us the different baskets, nets, and rods that the Vietnamese people use to catch fish from the many rivers, ponds, and lakes. Water Puppeteers
At the end of the show, the puppet operators come out to take their bows. They have been standing behind the bamboo screen, operating their puppets with a pole-and-string apparatus hidden by the murky pond water. Water Puppets
Inside the Yen Duc Village Tour restaurant, we get a closer look at some examples of the water puppets: they are carved of wood from the ubiquitous fig tree, painted, and waterproofed with resin. The movable parts – in this case, head and the arms – are attached with cloth, strings, wires, or even twisted hair covered with a layer of wax. Rice Paddies
Looking at the landscape that surrounds the restaurant/theatre, you can understand why “water” is so central. In fact, nước – the word for “water” also means “country” in Vietnamese. Enriched with our glimpses of Vietnamese fine-art and folk-art, and fortified with a good lunch (centred on rice and fish, of course) we continued on our journey to Halong to find our floating home.
 More on that some other time.
Until then,
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 19-20February2016
Posted in art,Landscapes,Performance,VietnamTags: arts and crafts,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,performance,performers,Photo Blog,portrait,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,Vietnam,work
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