Here Comes the Sun! The chance of a sunrise in the Himalaya is worth getting up for!
Daybreak offers hope, a sense of renewal.
And, a sunrise in the mountains makes me feel like anything is possible.
I’m not a morning person – but every so often I can be dragged out of bed for a special sunrise (eg: At the Top of the World). I certainly wasn’t going to miss my chance at another one in the Himalaya!
I was staying in Rishikesh, in the foothills of the mountains, practicing yoga in the 35°C (95°F) days and failing to sleep on hot, muggy nights. So, an early morning sojourn into surrounding hills where it might actually be a bit cooler was an attractive offer.
We set out at 4am for the winding drive up to the top of a hill in nearby Terhi Garwal. It was still dark when we parked, and started up the 80 steps to the Kunjapuri Devi Temple, which sits at 1,676 metres (5499 feet) on Kunjapuri Hill. The temple is known for its panoramic views over the nearby snow-capped mountains.
The pantheon of Hindu Gods and their complex histories always leaves me a bit muddled, but it is said that part of the immolated body of Sati, an incarnation of the Goddess Parvati, wife of Lord Shiva, fell to the earth at this spot.
Kunjapuri Devi Temple is dedicated to the Goddess Durga, the Divine Mother. Durga in Sanskrit means fortress, or “the invincible”; Durga is the most ferocious female Hindu deity. The temple is of immense importance to Hindu pilgrims and worshipers – especially during Navaratri, Durga’s ten-day festival (see: Haridwar Rishikesh Tourism).
But, like other foreigners and many of the locals, we were there primarily for the sunrise.
Lights over Rishikesh It was 5am: cool and dark, when we arrived at the top of the hill. We paused to admire Rishikesh, far below. (iPhone12Pro)
Stairs I was going to get my morning exercise! Apparently there are 80 steps up to the temple; I didn’t count them – I was busy trying to breathe. (iPhone12Pro)
The Maggi Point Restaurant Near the top of the staircase, a shop sells temple offerings, snacks including pots of Maggi noodles, and – most importantly – masala chai. (ISO 6400, 28 mm, f/2.8, 1/200 sec)
The Shopkeeper This was my first chance to play with my new mirrorless cameras – I was interested to see what they could do in low light. (ISO 64,000, 185 mm, f/2.8, 1/400 sec)
Our Guide Our escort from the Yoga school wanted to get in on the act! (ISO 64,000, 197 mm, f/2.8, 1/400 sec)
Predawn in the Himalaya It wasn’t yet 5.30am when we got to the top of the hill; the light was just sneaking over the horizon.
The Gods While waiting for the skies to lighten a bit, I explore the temple …
Prayers … where the faithful are already at prayer.
Orange on the Horizon A section of sky takes on orange hues …
Blue Hills … and the hills roll off into the distance. (iPhone12Pro)
“Rome 3,642 – Тokyo 3,350” (iPhone12Pro)
Kunjapuri Temple Story Aversion of the story behind the the temple’s origin is on a plaque near the viewing decks.
Green Hills and Popcorn Clouds (iPhone12Pro)
Almost Abstract: Foliage against Blue Hills
Layered Blue Hills and a Soft Pink Sky The light and colours change from one minute to the next.
Sunrise At just after 6am, the sun breaks over the horizon and the sky changes colour again.
Watching Sunrise There is a small crowd enjoying the morning views.
Enjoying Sunrise
Bells in the Temple Before entering a temple, it is customary to ring a bell: this alerts the gods to your presence, and helps focus your mind.
Priest in the Temple In an inner sanctum, a temple priest is taking offerings and dispensing blessings.
The Mountains from the Temple Morning has broken – I take a last look over the Himalaya …
Stairs Down … before walking back down the stairs to our waiting car.
The Ganges We stopped to admire Rishikesh in the valley below before driving back down the hill.
It was a lovely way to start the day – and I have enjoyed reflecting on it as we are about to start a new year.
A Heritage-Listed View ‘Taronga’is a local Aboriginal word meaning “beautiful view”. The view over the giraffe enclosure at Taronga Zoo and across Sydney Harbour, Australia, is indeed beautiful – and has actually been heritage-listed .
The only thing better than a day at a zoo is a day at the zoo with young children.
Add trips across Sydney Harbour on a summer day, and the whole experience is hard to beat.
Christmas was fast approaching, and my young grandchildren were visiting with their parents. My husband and I decided that rather than buying ‘things’, we would ‘gift’ us all a day at the unbeatable Taronga Zoo (see: A Tale of Two Tarongas).
The historic Taronga Zoo was originally opened in 1916 in the Sydney suburb of Mosman, on the northern shores of Sydney Harbour. While it is a long drive from anywhere, using the city’s public transport ferry network makes getting there half the fun – especially in good weather. From Circular Quay in Sydney’s Central Business District, the iconic Sydney Ferries get you across the harbour in only 12 minutes.
The views are included in the price!
Join us at the zoo.
Sydney Harbour The views over Sydney Harbour are wonderful from the ferries that criss-cross the waters.
A Sydney Ferry on the Harbour The Sydney Ferries operate nine different classes of vessels; this is one of the First Fleet Class – true Sydney icons.
Another Sydney Icon On Bennelong Point in the harbour, the renowned Sydney Opera House sits in front of the city centre.
Over the Elephants At the ferry dock, a gondola lift takes visitors up to the zoo; …
Glee … everyone is excited to see the animals below.
Wompoo Fruit-Dove – Ptilinopus Magnificus Our first stop was at an aviary where we were enclosed with a multitude of birds, including this fat native of eastern Australia and neighbouring New Guinea.
Australian White Ibis – Threskiornis Molucca Unlike the shy doves, the local ibis variant has adapted so well to the the growing cities that it affectionately known as the ‘[rubbish] bin chicken’.
Australian Brush-Turkey – Alectura Lathami Scrub turkeys are commonly seen scrabbling on the ground or building their mounds on Australia’s east coast – well north of where I live.
Ring-Tailed Lemur – Lemur Catta Madagascar is on my bucket list. In the meantime, the lemur enclosure provides close encounters with these endangered primates.
The Old Elephant House Taronga Zoo first opened in 1916, and some of the buildings bear testimony to these earlier times. Some of the original enclosures – like the old elephant house – remind us how zoos used to be.
Looking Out Modeled on the buildings of Northern India, the old elephant house certainly had charm.
Tasmanian Devil – Sarcophilus Harrisii I always find Tasmanian devils a challenge to photograph: they have very quick and erratic movements.
Interacting with the Devil Modern zoos have multiple viewing points; I love how the glass wall allows children close – but safe – contact with different animals.
Meerkat – Suricata Suricatta Cuteness overload! I could watch these little mongooses all day.
Seal Theatre We watched our timing, and made it to poolside …
Performing Seal … in time to watch the seals work for their dinner.
Gorilla Feeding Another zoo favourite are the gorillas; …
Silverback … to keep the animals alert and mentally engaged, their food is placed in puzzle boxes.
Kookaburra – Dacelo Australian natives hang around in the trees.
Asian Elephant – Elephas Maximus In the plain enclosure we saw from the gondola, the Asian elephants gather with their young.
Gondola with a View Overhead, the gondolas continue to run.
Spoonbill on the Koi Pond
“Rustic Bridge” Opened in 1915, this bridge was one of Taronga’s earliest landscape features. Designed as a romantic pathway across a natural gully, it was reminiscent of Italian grottoes.
Eagle and Handler It is always thrilling to watch raptors go through their paces.
Tiger Reflections Critically endangered Sumatran tigers (panthera tigris sondaica) are housed in the relatively new Tiger Trek precinct.
Tiger, Tiger! Even at a distance, they are magnificent.
On the Croc The little one finds a life-size saltwater crocodile, and makes friends.
Iguana Inside Reptile World, a huge range of living reptiles, large and small, are on display.
… and Back Again. The short trip back across Sydney Harbour is a beautiful end to a lovely day out.
Being with young children in a zoo which promotes education and conservation for the future is a great way to spend a summer day – a true gift to us all.
A Couple on Bow Lake Bow Peak, Bowcrow Peak, and other mountains in the Waputik range stand tall and majestic around the beautiful glacial Bow Lake. Just a short detour from Highway 93 in Canada’s Rocky Mountains, it feels miles from anywhere.
Highway 93, which runs the 233 kilometers (143 miles) between the little hamlet of Lake Louise in Banff National Park and the alpine town of Jasper in the Jasper National Park, runs parallel with North America’sContinental Divide through some of the most stunning scenery you could ever hope for.
It is breathtaking! Even in the rain.
I was disappointed to wake up to grey skies and scattered rain on the day I was set to drive north from Lake Louise. While May weather is predictably unpredictable, the month was almost over, and I’d been lucky on my walk the day before (see: The Bow River Loop).
Driving time – without stops – between the two little settlements is well under two hours. But, it is all through National Parks and the scenery is so stunning, it hard not to stop every few minutes! I had done my homework, and knew I would have no cell phone or wifi for most of the route, so I kept the paper map I had picked up at the Park’s Office. I also knew that the very few available facilities along the road were predominantly closed for off-season: I packed plenty of water and bought myself a picnic lunch before leaving Lake Louise.
Braving the ceaseless rain, I pulled out my umbrella at Mosquito Creek, a mere 20-odd minutes (27 km – 16 mi) after setting off. It was eerily quiet without the crush of visitors who camp or cabin there in summertime.
My second and third stops were soon after: a mere 10.4 km (6.5 mi) and 2 km (1.2 mi) further north, at Bow Lake Viewpoint and The Lodge at Bow Lake, respectively.
Join me for a short section of the Icefields Parkway!
Start of the Highway 93N The driving itself was easy: the road was in excellent condition, and a lot less twisty than many mountain roads I’ve travelled. The hardest part is not becoming too distracted by the scenery all around. (iPhone12Pro)
A Very Wet Walk The clouds dropped down and the skies opened up: it was very wet when I got to Mosquito Creek.
Mosquito Creek It was too wet for any serious walking, but I explored the nearby creek.
Cairns in Mosquito Creek
Islands in the Creek The cold and crystal clear waters here have raced down from one of the over 100 glaciers in the surrounding mountains.
“Moosequito” It was very quiet: although the hostel – and the campground on the other side of the creek – are open year round, there didn’t seem to be any guests.
Rain on the Highway Back on the road, the mountains loom and the rain continues. (iPhone12Pro)
Mountains around Bow Lake Less than ten minutes later, like magic the clouds lifted and patches of blue sky appeared. (iPhone12Pro)
Crowfoot Glacier Viewpoint There is a small pull-off at the side of the road …
The Weight of Snow … that allows great views of the Crowfoot Glacier. The still-impressive-but-shrinking glacier, which once had an extra claw making it look like the foot of a bird, is one of the many water sources for the Bow River below.
Bow Lake Viewpoint My next stop was literally one minute further up the road. There you have clear views over the magnificent Bow Lake. Like other glacial lakes, it is impossibly aqua-blue-green. Fine particles of rock are picked up, ground small, and deposited into the water by slow-moving and melting glaciers. The suspended particles filter the reflected light, giving these lakes their spectacular colours. Crowfoot Mountain stands tall (3055 m – 10023 ft) on the opposite shore.
The Lodge across Bow Lake The historic Num-Ti-Jah Lodge is dwarfed by Mt Jimmy Simpson ( 2966 m – 9731 ft) behind it.
Bow Lake To get a closer look, I turned in towards the lodge, where I managed to park along the roadside. Bow Lake is just beautiful from every angle! (iPhone12Pro)
Douglas Fir – Pseudotsuga Menziesii
Wild Strawberry – Fragaria Virginiana I follow a narrow, wet dirt path parallel to the lakeshore; it is slippery and full of tangled tree roots and small plants …
South over Bow Lake … but the views are glorious …
Waters around Bow Lake … in every direction.
Shallow Waters
Bridge on Bow Lake Closer to the lodge, the path improves, and leads over a small bridge.
Location, Location! What a spot! This 24-guest-room lodge was the dream child of Jimmy Simpson, mountaineer, trapper, and guide, who came to these mountains from Scotland in 1898. Little has changed since Jimmy first opened it to customers in 1922: with no cell-phone or wifi, the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge is truly an escape into nature.
People on the Lake Time stands still here.
Unfortunately, my time was marching on!
It was already 1 pm, and I had covered less than 40 kilometres (25 miles). If I continued at that pace, I wasn’t going to be reaching Jasper before dark.
Reluctantly, I pressed on – vowing to come back some day.
The Greek Flag on the Venetian Fort This is Crete: blue skies, a killer September sun, and layers of history everywhere you look!
Perfect weather, fabulous food, and historical and natural sites galore: Crete was an absolute joy to visit.
I was staying in the hills outside the island’s capital of Heraklion/Iraklio, and had no difficulty filling my days with fascinating day trips (see: Weekly Wanders Crete). Towards the end of my week, I decided to explore closer to home, and took the shuttle into the old port. I had pre-booked myself one of those Hop-on, Hop-off buses, to facilitate my access to the main sights downtown – although I probably didn’t need it..
I started the day in the old port, making my way across the waterfront around the ancient Venetian harbour to my first pick-up point – hopping off the bus again to explore sections of the old city walls and to enjoy a traditional lunch and Greek coffee at a sidewalk cafe.
The bus circuit took me past the Palace of Knossos, which I had already visited (see: The Minotaur, Mythology, and an Ancient Palace). I alighted again back in town, and headed for the Heraklion Archaeological Museum. I took longer than I had expected to admire the wonderful collection there and have written separately about the truly breathtaking 4000 year-old arts and artefacts from the Minoans on display (see: Modern Art from an Ancient Culture).
It was definitely time for a break, and I made my way through the heart of the old town to the historic Morozini Fountain and found a seat at another cafe for more coffee and some people-watching.
My last stop before finding the return shuttle to my accommodation was back on the waterfront, where I explored the Venetian fort, alternately known as Koules Fortress, Rocca a Mare Fortress, or Castello a Mare (“Castle on the Sea” in Italian).
Join me for a walk around the vibrant seaport of Heraklion.
Wooden Boat on the Waterfront The old Venetian port is an eclectic mix of ancient and modern: considered a historical landmark, an old wooden boat sits in the green space near the marina.
Souvenir Shop Nestled in the breakwater near my first bus stop, vendors take advantage of the countless tourists that walk the waterfront.
Koules Fortress Built in the 16th-century, Koules Fortress stands as monument to Heraklion’s Venetian past.
Venetian Walls I hopped off the bus a short distance away from the waterfront – along the western edge of the fortified walls built around the old centre by the Venetians in the 16th century.
Inscription over the Jesus Gate – Kenourgia Porta – New Gate The year here is 1580, and I think the inscription honours John Mocenigo, the Proconsul (Governor) of the city-state at that time.
Old Bricks and New Growth Heraklion’s walls, armaments, and other fortifications, were designed by military architect and urban planner, Michele Sanmicheli (1484-1559) of Verona. Although requiring repairs after earthquakes, age, and modern warfare, the walls withstood against the second longest siege in history – finally falling to the Ottomans after 21 years in 1669. The sections that remain today are still impressive.
View from the Wall From the top of the wall, you can see where the old city meets the new.
Tunnel in the Wall
Madonna Sculpture Renaissance Park is nestled into a triangle of space at the base of the old wall.
Mother and Infant I could find no information about this intriguing modern sculpture.
Fountain of the Tekke of the “Three-Men Order” (Üçleria) On the other hand, the 18th century ablution fountain in Renaissance Park has numerous names: for example, it has been called the Fountain of the Joint (The Hookah Lounge) and the Ottoman Fountain of the Tekke (a monastery of Dervishes).
Holy Church of Agios Andreas Across the road, we jump ahead a century or two, …
Church Bell … to a little Greek Orthodox chapel.
Bust of a Local Dignitary Some of the public art is identified only in Greek, so I have no clue!
Doors in the Wall near the Kainouria Porta While they are called the Venetian Walls, original sections (mostly lost now) were built by the Byzantines who occupied the area for hundreds of years before the Venetians arrived. Subsequently, sections were replaced by the Turks.
Hercules – Heracles There are different stones and details everywhere you look. Heraklion is named for Hercules, who reputedly came to Crete to perform the seventh of his labours. He is honoured in the walls near the Kainouria Porta – the New Gate.
Gate Pantocrator – Chania Porta Although there are only four arched city gates (portals) through the old walls, they all took on different names over the years, making it feel like there are many more!
Morozini Fountain Much later, back in the centre of the city, I go in search of the city’s famous fountain. In the middle of Eleftheriou Venizelou Square – more commonly known as Lions Square – is the marble fountain built in 1629. Its purpose was to bring water from the mountains into city; its four lions are an enduring symbol of Venetian power.
The Municipal Gallery The civic buildings combine …
Reflections in an Arched Window … classic elegance …
Municipal Art … with modern interpretations.
Church of Agios (Saint) Titos The Cathedral of Saint Titus(Hagios Titos)was originally built as a mosque in 1869, and was converted to an Orthodox Church in 1925. It is dedicated to dedicated to the apostle Titus, the first bishop of Crete.
Candles in the Church The interior is dark, and smells of smoke and incense.
Inside the Church of Agios Titos Ornately carved wood surrounds the Christian icons at the altar.
Koules Fortress Back at the waterfront, I make a visit to the Castello a Mare – known today by its Turkish name of Koules. Built on the site of previous fortifications, this Venetian fortress was finished in 1540.
Inside Koules Fortress The complex seems incredibly solid – although it has recently undergone extensive renovation, so who knows what is original and what isn’t!
From the Battlements The interior is quite plain, but the battlements afford unencumbered views …
Boats on the Harbour … in all directions – especially over the marina and city.
Flag on the Walls
Old Stones The fort was armed with cannons in 1630.
Looking out Old Windows Today, windows look out over the two kilometre (1.2 mile) promenade that serves as a recreational sea walk and a functional break-water.
Tourist Train Back on the waterfront, I spotted the charming little train that circuits the old city.
Pirate Ship in the Harbour Crete’s location in the middle of the Aegean Sea, within striking distance of both Europe and Anatolia, has made it attractive to pirates over the years. In the ninth century, it became home to Arab Moors from Spain, who made Heraklion (Chandax) the principal base of what has been called a Pirate Emirate. The celebrated Barbarycorsairs, brothers Aruj and Chayrad’din, collectively known as the Pirate Barbarossa, were regular visitors to the city, and reputedly had hideouts nearby. Today, modernised ‘pirate ships’ serve as tourist boats.
Heraklion Lighthouse My last impression, as I leave the city, is of the lighthouse at the end of the seawall that shelters the old Heraklion harbour.
The city is truly a wonderful mix of old Venetian and Ottoman elements …
… with just enough modern Cretan influences – and good Greek food and coffee!
Har Ki Pauri Every night on Har Ki Pauri – one of the most sacred ghats in Haridwar – the magnificent Ganga Aarti is performed.
The Ganges River, known more commonly as the Ganga Mata(Mother Ganges), is revered in Hindu worship and culture. More than just a river, she is the embodiment of a goddess whose purity cleanses one’s sins: bathing in her waters releases the faithful from samsara, the endless cycle of death and rebirth.
All along the banks of this long river, from the source at Gaumukh in the Himalaya, to the mouth on the Bay of Bengal, Hindu faithful seek to bathe in the waters to rid themselves of sins. They also pay their respects to the Mother, making offerings or pujas (ceremonial worship), and often carry water home again in copper pots for use in rituals. When loved ones are dying, it is customary to place a few drops of Ganga water in the mouth of the departing.
Some places along the river’s long banks have additional spiritual significance – and one of these is the ancient holy city of Haridwar. There, whole temples are devoted to the worship of the river/Goddess, and an aarti to her is performed twice a day – at sunrise and sunset.
An aarti (arti or arati) is a Hindu ritual employed in worship, often part of a puja, in which light is ritually waved in veneration of deities. This light – usually in the form of a flame – symbolically removes rātrī, or darkness. The evening Ganga Aarti at Har Ki Pauri, one of the most sacred ghats in Haridwar, involves a number of priests addressing the Mother and leading prayers and chanted mantras in reverence. They blow conch shells, ring bells, bang brass cymbals, and wave lighted multi-tiered brass lamps, all in a traditional ceremony which lasts about 45 minutes.
I was travelling with photographer Karl Grobl and local guide DV Singh; they got us into a great vantage point across the water from the aarti. I was as much impressed by the welcoming friendliness of the people around me as I was by the ritual on the opposite shore.
Join me for some environmental portraits from the ghats in Haridwar.
Haridwar Street It is a short walk from our hotel to the ghats on the Ganges.
Jewellery Salesman Our walk takes us through narrow lanes with brightly lit stores selling jewellery in gold and semi-precious stones.
Young Woman in the Gold
Women in the Street Many of the pilgrims I meet have travelled a long way; they gather outside the shops to admire the jewellery – and possibly add to their collection of bangles.
Man in a Cap
Bridge over the Ganges We walk across the Shiv Setu bridge to get to our vantage point on the opposite bank.
Flowers on the Water Flowers are swept away underneath us. Any time of day or night, people say prayers and offer gifts to the Ganga Ma.
Hindu Priests on Har Ki Pauri It is still early – the aarti takes place at sunrise and sundown – but the ghat is already a hive of activity.
Priests on the Steps With spectators either side on the stairs of the ghat, the priests launch into their litany of chanted prayers.
Woman in Red Our side of the river is quite crowded, but everyone is in a good humour …
Woman and her Husband … and there are plenty of smiles to welcome the strangers in their midst.
Women in the Crowd
Worshipers on the Ghat As the light falls, our ghat becomes quite crowded.
“Om Jai Gange Mata” When the traditional song venerating the Mother Ganges starts, everyone joins in, …
“Jai Ganga, Qui Jai” … throwing their hands in the air with gusto on the chorus.
Prayers to Ganga Ma The belief that the Ganges is the living embodiment of a Goddess or spiritual Mother runs strong, …
Reverence … and people offer up their heartfelt prayers to this celestial river.
Woman and her Husband: Reprise Twilight falls over the crowd on the ghat.
Woman in Brown All around me, the audience/participants take the time …
Woman in a Colourful Scarf … to smile and have their pictures made.
Smiling Girl
Man in a Woolen Cap Once the sun is gone, the temperature cools dramatically.
A Couple on the Ghat
Priests with Lamps Fire is central to any aarti: the flames are ritually waved in veneration of the deity – in this case, Ganga Ma.
Priest with a Lamp After the aarti, lighted wicks are are passed around …
Young Woman with a Lamp … and worshippers pass their hands through the scented smoke …
Woman with a Lamp … and then wave this over their face to receive the purifying blessings, before passing the flame on.
End of the Aarti on Har Ki Pauri Soon it is dark, and the aarti is finishing up. Scented smoke lingers on the air.
The aarti in Haridwar was completely different from those that I had watched some years prior in Varanasi (see: Light the Darkness and Life and Death on the Ghats) – a further illustration that worship can be done in any manner, as long as it is mindful.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
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Until then –
