Ornate Buddha heads, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Buddha Heads
At least, I think they are Buddhas! The concrete statues in the Wat Khaek or Sala Keoku (names abound) represent one mystic monk’s unique vision of the intersection between Buddhism and Hinduism.

It was like fever dream!

Anyone who thinks Buddhism is all sweetness, light, and Zen, hasn’t spent sufficient time in Asia. There, you will find many paintings and sculptures telling violent stories of historic battles between good and evil, and depicting truly frightening scenes from Buddhist Hell (eg: Two Artists; Contrasting Visions).

One of the most bizarre depictions of Buddhist and Hindu teachings that I have experienced would have to be the extensive sculpture garden of Sala Kaew Ku (Sala Keo Kou) outside the northeastern Thai city of Nong Khai. The garden – sometimes called a temple (วัด – wat) – was the vision and work of a venerable local monk, Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat (or Luang Pu Boun Leua Sourirat – spellings vary!), and his followers. According to Lonely Planet, Luang Pu told the story of falling into a hole as a child and meeting an ascetic who introduced him to the mysteries of the underworld. This set him on course to become a Brahmanic-yogi-priest-shaman, blending Hindu and Buddhist philosophy into his teachings.

Luang Pu developed a faithful following on both sides of the Mekong, and his first sculpture park was on the Lao side where he lived until the Communists took control in 1975. The 208 statues on the Thai side of the river – some reaching 25m (82 ft) – were started in 1978 and took 20 years to finish; they are meant to depict his dreams and represent the fantastical journey into the mind of a shaman. Luang Pu  died in 1996, and his mummified body is under glass and surrounded by flashing lights in the sala (pavilion) on site.

I was there a very long time ago, and the photos from a long-forgotten camera have been buried on external disks. But, I have thought of them from time to time.

Most recently, they have come back to mind because of insects and yoga.

I recently spent some time at a yoga retreat in Australia’s Royal National Park; it was lovely, but I did come away with an inflamed insect bite of some sort on my abdomen. It made me think of my long-ago trip to Nong Khai for a yoga retreat, where I managed to pick up dengue fever (see: A Day on the Mekong). I don’t think I was yet symptomatic when I visited the sculpture park, but given the nature of the bizarre cement statues that surrounded me, I can’t be sure!

Join me for a weird walk:

From inside a Tuk Tuk: driver in the mirror and the streets of Nong Khai Thailand

In a Tuk Tuk
Many of my explorations start with tuk-tuk rides.

Giant brick Buddha at the entry to the Sala Kaew Ku sculpture park, Nong Khai Thailand

Buddha at the Entry
A giant brick Buddha with scissor-hands like Edward gives me a glimpse of what I’m in for!

Giant brick Buddha at the entry to the Sala Kaew Ku sculpture park, Nong Khai Thailand

Buddha and Text
Explanatory text abounds – but while I could read enough Thai to get around, it was never good enough for lengthy tracts of Sanskrit mysticism.

Sunglasses on a table, Sala Kaew Ku sculpture park, Nong Khai Thailand

Sunglasses for Sale
Typical Thailand! You never know what bargains you might find!

Stone dogs barking at an elephant sculpture, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Dogs and an Elephant
หมาเห่าข้าม ลภาษาเบราณ – “The dog barked across the ancient language.” I have no idea what that means, but apparently the elephant is calmly ignoring the gossiping dogs.

Tridents
Some of the sculptures are huge, with intricate details. These look to me like depictions of Shiva and his consort Parvati – but I can’t be sure.

Detail of a demonic face, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Deity or Demon?
Some of the facial designs are reminiscent of the temple guardians common throughout Southeast Asia.

The Time of Death has Arrived carved in Thai, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

“The Time of Death has Arrived”

Ornately decorated Buddha statue, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Ornate
Delicate faces sit high above decorated bodies …

Detail: stone animal face, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Animal Face
… while ferocious creatures with weapons take captives.

Large concrete statues with many arms, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Arms Against the Sky

Large concrete statues in combat, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Arms and Weapons Everywhere

Seated Bodhisattvas
Many Buddhas or Bodhisattvas are seated in contemplation in front of the pillars decorating the main pavilion.

Seated Bodhisattvas in front of the main pavilion, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Bodhisattvas in the Courtyard

Concrete face of a meditating Bodhisattva, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Serenity

Detail: folded hands of a meditating Bodhisattva, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Bhairava Mudra

The sala and various statues, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Overgrown
Parts of the park were a bit run down and wild.

Deer in the bougainvillea, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Creature in the Park
In somes ways the overgrown nature adds to the charm.

Multi-armed statue, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

More Arms – More Faces

Garuda and Bodhisattva statues, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Garuda and Bodhisattva
Some of the images nestle into the grass, …

Buddha statue, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Standing Buddha
… while others stand tall against the sky.

At the Feet of the Buddha

Buddha head, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

A Buddha Head

Buddha head, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Another Buddha Head

Pavillions on the pond, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Shelters on the Pond
Local families are out picnicking – sheltering from the oppressive heat in the pavillions on the water.

Statue: Buddha in a seven-headed naga, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Buddha on a Coiled Naga
One of the tallest sculptures (25m – 82 ft) is a Buddha seated on a spectacular seven-headed naga (serpent deity).

Small statue of a Buddha in a Naga mouth, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Small Buddha in a Naga
The naga is revered as a guardian of Buddha, and appears in several forms around the park.

Battle scene in stone, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Battle Stories

Concrete sculpture of a head with four faces, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

All Seeing
Brahma is generally represented with four faces – but a number of Hindu and Buddhist Gods can also be depicted that way.

View through the concrete giant

Enter the Mouth
Tunnel through the giant’s mouth to the Wheel of Life

A seated and a reclining Buddha, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Seated and Reclining
Buddhas in all sizes and position are everywhere you look. Long stories are written in Thai and Isaan (Northeastern Thai dialect).

Buddha from the rear, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Ornate Back
Another naga winds up another Buddha in intricate detailing.

Statue of the "Fat Buddha, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Budai
Frequently called the “Laughing Buddha”, Ho-Tai was actually a 10th century Chinese monk and Buddhist master known for his jolly nature.

A reclining Buddha in front of the entry to the pavillion, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Sala Keo Kou
A reclining Buddha overlooks the entry to the large, three-story pavilion that houses – amongst other artifacts – the mummified body of Luang Pu Boun Leua Sourirat, under a glass dome ringed by flashing lights. Fever dream indeed!

Portrait: Thai man in a cowboy hat, Nong Khai Thailand

Tuk-Tuk Driver
Back outside the park, my tuk-tuk driver is happily waiting to drive me back to town.

Text: Happy Travels

Truly, an incredible place.

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 20March2010

View over the monasteries of Meteora from the Psaropetra Lookout, Greece.

The Monasteries of Meteora
It’s an extraordinary landscape – and a mind-blowing architectural achievement! Eastern Orthodox monasteries built in the 13th and 14th centuries perch hign on the rocky outcrops rising from the northwestern edge of the Plain of Thessaly, near the Pindus Mountains of Greece. (iPhone12Pro)

There are a few places I would return to without hesitation.

Meteora in Thessaly, Central Greece, is one of those places.

The landscape is remarkable: improbable pillars of sandstone and conglomerate rock rise out of a flat plain near the Pindos Mountains. The history is long and colourful and the architecture is astounding. Even better: walking trails lead between the ancient monasteries perched on their individual aeries.

The many caves in the region were inhabited continuously between 50,000 and 5,000 years ago. Much later – in the ninth century CE – ascetic hermit monks moved to the ancient pinnacles, taking advantage of the general inaccessibility for solitude, and utilising the hollows, fissures, and caves for shelter. Later, more than 20 formal monasteries were somehow built atop these inaccessible rock monoliths from the fourteenth century; the monks were seeking sanctuary from the increasing number of Turkish attacks in the region.

In their day, the monasteries were only accessible by rope ladders or large nets on pulleys. While this ensured the protection of the monastics, it was a precarious journey, as it is said that ropes were only replaced “when the Lord let[s] them break.” Today there are staircases and pathways cut into the rock formations leading to the six of the original twenty-four monasteries that remain occupied: two by women; four by men.

These are still conservative monastic communities: we were warned to cover our knees and arms: wrap skirts were available for anyone deemed inappropriately dressed. Photography inside was limited. But it was fascinating exploring them: admiring the art, wondering at the austere and pious life of the few remaining inhabitants, and marveling at the ingenuity that led to these buildings being there in the first place; and the walk through this incredible landscape was just wonderful!

Meteora was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1988 for its outstanding architecture, its religious and artistic significance, and its general beauty. Priceless examples of Byzantine religious art decorate many of the chapels.

Meteora is a four-five hour drive from Athens, where we had spent the day before sightseeing (see: On the Acropolis). It is well worth the journey.

Come along!

Sunrise view over a balcony at the Grand Meteora Hotel, Greece

Meteora from my Room
Sometimes it pays to get up early! How spectacular is that sunrise over my balcony? (iPhone12Pro)

Tourists walking across the flat to the Psaropetra Lookout, Meteora, Greece

Into the Psaropetra Lookout
Our first stop after breakfast is at a lookout …

View of Holy Monastery of Roussanоu Saint Barbara from Psaropetra Lookout, Meteora, Greece

View over Holy Monastery of Roussanоu (Rousanos) Saint Barbara
… where we have a wonderful view over the plateau, the rock formations, and the magical monasteries on them.

Greek Cyclamen in bloom on the ground, Meteora Greece

Greek Cyclamen – Cyclamen Graecum
We walk off via a walking path with delicate flowers at our feet …

View of Holy Monastery of Roussanоu Saint Barbara from a walking track, Meteora, Greece

View from the Trail
… and glimpses of the landscape through the trees.

Looking over the gardens of Holy Monastery of Roussanоu Saint Barbara, Meteora, Greece

Monastery Garden
Established in the 14th century, but mostly built in the 16th century, the Monastery of St. Barbara or Roussanou (spellings and names abound!) is one of the six abbeys still operational. It became a convent in 1988 and today is home to about 10 nuns.

View of the Monastery of St. Varlaam from Roussanou, Meteora, Greece

View of Monastery of St. Varlaam
Roussanou is the lowest of the monasteries (484 metres / 1588 feet above sea level), but the distance between the peaks affords us a great view of the higher Monastery of St. Varlaam (595 m / 1952 ft above sea level) across the gap.

Meteora Mountains from the Monastery Of Agios Stefanos, Meteora, Greece

Meteora Mountains from the Monastery Of Agios Stefanos
Believed to have been built in the 15th century, this is the other nunnery. (iPhone12Pro)

Religious Iconography inside the Monastery Of Agios Stefanos, Meteora, Greece

Religious Iconography
This is the only room inside the Monastery Of Agios Stefanos where photography is allowed. (iPhone12Pro)

View of Dupiani from the St Steven Monastery, Meteora, Greece

View of Dupiani from the St Steven Monastery

Rough wooden door inside the Monastery Of Agios Stefanos, Meteora, Greece

Ancient Wall – Ancient Door – Ancient Lock
I love the rough textures inside these old buildings.

View up at the Monastеry оf St. Barbаra Roussanоu from a walking path, Meteora, Greece

View from the Path
Back on the walking trails there are views all around. The Monastеry оf St. Barbаra Roussanоu (Agiа Varvarа Rοussanou) looks completely different from this angle!

Tourists on the walkway to Varlaam Monastery, Meteora, Greece

Path to Varlaam Monastery
Sections of the walkways from the main road to the monasteries are cobbled or paved – but they are still steep, with frequent stairs.

Holy Monastery Great Meteoron through the trees across the plateau, Meteora, Greece

Holy Monastery Great Meteoron of the Transfiguration of the Saviour
Fortunately, there is plenty to look at as we wend our way through the trees. The monastery across the plateau from us was founded in the 14th century by Saint Athanasios the Meteorite. It is the largest and the oldest of the remaining six – and closed to the public on Tuesdays (when I was there).

Looking up to Varlaam Monastery
On our side of the the plateau we can see the wires that are part of the cable car system the monks use to transport supplies – a slight improvement over the old ropes and pulleys.

Arched alcove, Varlaam Monastery, Meteora, Greece

Saints in an Alcove

Looking down over a walkway to Varlaam Monastery, Meteora, Greece

Wildflowers and the Path
Plants cling to the inhospitable rocks, while tourists and pilgrims continue to come and go on the walkway far below.

Pergola in the courtyard of Varlaam Monastery, Meteora, Greece

Courtyard – Varlaam Monastery
Finally we arrive at the spacious and simple courtyard of Varlaam Monastery (595 m – 1952 ft above sea level; 373 m – 1224 ft above the valley floor), where the views over the surrounding tableland are stunning.

Steps in the courtyard of Varlaam Monastery, Meteora, Greece

Entering Varlaam Monastery
The second largest monastery in this area, Varlaam Monastery was built by the Apsarades brothers Theophanes and Nektarios in the 1500s – but feels surprisingly modern.

Hanging incense burners, Varlaam Monastery, Meteora, Greece

Incense Burners and Icons
Photography is limited inside the monastery: the beautiful Byzantine chapel paintings are off limits. But to me, these incense burners (and clerics robed in black) are the epitome of the Eastern Orthodox faith.

Detail: roof tiles and trim, Varlaam Monastery, Meteora, Greece

Roof Tiles and Trim

Oak barrel water vat, Varlaam Monastery, Meteora, Greece

Water Vat
Think about it: how do you get enough drinking water when your monastery is on the top of a mountain? This 12-ton capacity oak barrel, built in the 16th-century, was used for rainwater storage. Today it contains all manner of currency – thrown in by visitors, as if into a wishing well!

Painting of abbots inside Varlaam Monastery, Meteora, Greece

Painting of Abbots Past
The museums inside Varlaam include paintings and wonderful black and white photographs of the early days … (iPhone12Pro)

Ecclesiastical robes in the Varlaam Monastery Museum, Meteora, Greece

In the Museum
… as well as samples of richly embroidered old  ecclesiastical robes. (iPhone12Pro)

Brass bells, shop, Varlaam Monastery, Meteora, Greece

Bits, Bells, and Bobs
In the monastery shop, Orthodox iconography and religious paraphernalia is for sale.

Various-coloured bellflower in the woods, Meteora, Greece

Various-Coloured Bellflower – Campanula Versicolor
After our tour through Varlaam, we head back into the woods.

Monastery of Rousanou Saint Barbara from the walking path below, Meteora, Greece

The Monastеry оf St. Barbаra Roussanоu – Agiа Varvarа Rοussanou
Our walk out of the monasteries and into town takes us back under the Rοussanou

Trees and mountains, Meteora, Greece

Cyprus Turpentine – Pistacia Terebinthus
… and through the woods and mountains.

Dupiani from the walkway, Meteora, Greece

Dupiani
As we drop down to the flats, a massive rock stands out. This rock – Dupiani – was home to the first monastery founded here, and is still home to hermits in the crevices.

A house at the outskirts of Kastraki with Meteora in the background, Greece

Meteora from Kastraki
It is lunch time when we reach the village of Kastraki (small castle) – those magnificent rocks stand against the sky in the background.

The whole place was just magic!

And the walk around the monasteries was just enough to be enjoyable, but no so hard as to be unmanageable.

I’d go back!

Until then,

Happy Wandering!

Photos: 13September2022

Ray Beadle on guitar at the Alpine Bar, Thredbo Australia

Rocking the Blues in the Fresh Air
This is what music festivals are all about: great music in a friendly venue. Ray Beadle is a favourite amongst Australian music fans – myself included (see: Singing the Blues).

Live music is a joy!

I was thrilled to get back to Thredbo, a little alpine village in Australia’s Kosciuszko National Park, for the annual Blues Festival this year. Thredbo is one of Australia’s favourite a winter ski resorts. But, I love the Snowy Mountains just as much in summer time – when the air is scented with mountain mint, and the wildflowers are in bloom. The music festival is an added incentive to visit.

This year marked the 29th iteration of the festival, which takes over the little village, filling the crisp, fresh air with happy sounds. Starting on Friday afternoon with complimentary wine and performances indoors and out, the blues are scattered over 60 sets across three days – ending late Sunday night. 

I didn’t go the distance: because I stay off the mountain, in the nearby town of Jindabyne, I don’t hang around as late as most of the other festival goers. But, I take in a sampling of the 20 acts, making sure to pre-book my favourite venues and fit in a mountain walk. 

The day we walked down from Eagles Nest, the venue at the top of the Kosciuszko Express Chairlift, the weather was perfect for walking – but less good for pictures. I usually include a few from the natural surrounds (see: Thredbo Blues), but this year I have none.

Photographically, the garish lights and tightly packed venues are always a challenge – and this year I was still trying to come to grips with a whole new camera system. I switched to Sony mirrorless cameras late last year, and haven’t done sufficient homework since then, so I’m still struggling.

But, I came away with a lot of pictures – mostly portraits – a few of which I’ll share here. Enjoy!

LilG on guitar in the Village Square, Thredbo Australia

LilG
Kicking off the music in the Village Square, child prodigy 12-year-old LilG covers a broad range of blues classics.

Repeat Offenders blues band, Schuss Bar, Thredbo Australia

Repeat Offenders
Indoors in the Schuss Bar, the new line-up of old musical favourites pound out some seriously swampy southern soul: Gary Lothian on guitar, Rosscoe Clark on drums, Dave Green on bass, …

Portrait: Sally King singing, Schuss Bar, Thredbo Australia

Sally King
… and Sally King on vocals.

GD & the King Brothers with Jill Tweedie in The Cascades, Thredbo Australia

GD & the King Brothers
The Cascades Restaurant is one of my favourite venues: the space lends itself to decent acoustics and the food is fabulous. This is another line-up of performers who have been on the Australian music scene for as long as I can remember!

Silhouette of the King Brothers performing, The Cascades, Thredbo Australia

King Brothers Silhouette
The late afternoon sun angles through the windows as our dinner-set starts. (iPhone12Pro)

Portrait: Ron King on harmonica, The Cascades, Thredbo Australia

Ron King on Harmonica

Portrait: Jeff King on Guitar, The Cascades, Thredbo Australia

Jeff King on Guitar

Environmental portrait: Graeme Druce on guitar, The Cascades, Thredbo Australia

Graeme Druce – Guitar and Vocal
I last saw GD here at Thredbo as part of the Doggn It duo in 2015 (see: Cool Blues, Hot Jazz).

Detail: hands on a slide guitar, The Cascades, Thredbo Australia

In Good Hands – Jeff King on Slide

Portrait: Jill Tweedie at the mike, The Cascades, Thredbo Australia

Guest Vocals – Jill Tweedie

Alek Necko on guitar, Schuss Bar, Thredbo Australia

Necko
Back upstairs, the young Sydney musicians who make up the band Necko are playing in the classic rock style of my youth.

Portrait: Alek Necko under lights, Schuss Bar, Thredbo Australia

Alek Necko

Frank Sultana Blues Band, Kosciuszko Room, Thredbo Australia

Frank Sultana Blues Band
My next stop was in the Kosciuszko Room for some more rollicking blues with Frank Sultana on guitar, Adrian Herbert on drums, …

Portrait: Dan Sullivan on harp, Kosciuszko Room, Thredbo Australia

On the Harp
… and Dan Sullivan on harmonica.

Couple dancing, Kosciuszko Room, Thredbo Australia

Dancing
A number of people took advantage of the great rhythms.

Portrait: Frank Sultana singing, Kosciuszko Room, Thredbo Australia

Frank Sultana

Portrait: Dom Turner on guitar, Keller Bar, Thredbo Australia

Dom Turner
Dom is another classic: I first saw him with the Backsliders at the Basement in Sydney and the Byron Bay Bluesfest … a long time ago!

Waxing gibbous moon, Thredbo Australia

Moon Shot
Returning to the car after a full afternoon and evening, I decided to test the camera on the moon; not too bad for hand-held!

James Southwell on guitar at the Alpine Bar, Thredbo Australia

James Southwell
Back at the Alpine Bar on the Saturday morning, we enjoyed as much of the James Southwell set as we could before it was time to head up the mountain, …

Diners seated in Eagles Nest, Thredbo Australia

Eagles Nest
… riding the chairlift up to Australia’s highest restaurant. Eagles Nest sits at 1937 metres, a pleasant walk away from Mount Kosciuszko, the country’s highest peak (2228 m; 7310 ft). The band was setting up as we arrived.

The McNaMarr Project, Eagles Nest, Thredbo Australia

The McNaMarr Project
Against a sunny mountain afternoon, the McNaMarr Project keeps us entertained over lunch. This is a combination I always look forward to seeing: multi award-winning blues artists John McNamara and Andrea Marr are a powerhouse duo.

Portrait: Andrea Marr singing, Eagles Nest, Thredbo Australia

Andrea Marr

Blues band Collard Greens and Gravy under lights, Schuss Bar, Thredbo Australia

Collard Greens & Gravy
You know you are in for some Delta and Swamp Blues when a band is named after a southern dish! But then, the lead singer and harmonica player is actually named Ian Collard. I made the decision to come back the next day for their full set.

Bronze emu statue, Thredbo Australia

Emu
In the meantime, I enjoyed some more performances and some quiet time. This bronze statue by Silvio Apponyi has been in Thredbo since 2002. We often used to see an actual father emu and his young chick along the roadside; the warning sign still stands, but I haven’t seen the birds for many years.

Portrait: Ian Collard under lights, Keller Bar, Thredbo Australia

Ian Collard
Sunday morning I was back early for more Collard Greens and Gravy; we were meant to be higher up the mountain, but strong winds had put the gondola on hold.

A wine glass and a water glass against a bright window, Keller Bar, Thredbo Australia

In the Keller Bar
There is something delightfully decadent about being in a dark bar – complete with a sticky floor – when you know that outside, people are hiking and cycling in the fresh mountain air!

Detail: Sean Emmett

Sean Emmett
I was as captured by the turquoise rings worn by the Collard Greens and Gravy guitarist as I was with his style.

Jeff Lang, Kane Dennelly, and Alison Ferrier performing at the Alpine Bar, Thredbo Australia

In the Alpine Bar
Music festivals invite collaborations. Kane Dennelly from the frenetic 19Twenty joins legendary Australian guitarist, songwriter, vocalist, and music producer Jeff Lang, and his multi-instrumentalist wife, Alison Ferrier, on stage.

Detail: Jeff Lang

Jeff Lang on Slide

Mark Easton on steel guitar, the Apre Bar, Thredbo Australia

Mark Easton
The Apre Bar is a nightmare venue: tiny and awkward with dreadful lighting. It is often also – as was the case this year – the venue for some of my favourite performances. Who knew that Mongolian throat singing and metal/blues would meld so well! I went away with two CD’s. (I can’t share them because my computer doesn’t have a CD drive. Treat yourself: crank up your volume and search: https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=vZMZ7Cgu9lg&list=OLAK5uy_mL6P5_YGzqX27t-S3sHsk-cEP4noK-Af4 )

Portrait: Stewart D’Arrietta at a keyboard, the Lounge Bar, Thredbo Australia

Stewart D’Arrietta
For a complete change of pace, I headed to the Lounge Bar where Stewart D’Arrietta and his trio served up Tom Waits and Leonard Cohen – I smiled the whole way through.

Obstructed view of 19Twenty in the crowded dark, Keller Bar, Thredbo Australia

19Twenty
On the way back to the car, I poked my head into the Keller Bar which was completely packed out; as usual, 19Twenty had the crowd bouncing.

Man on a sound-mixing board in the dark, Keller Bar, Thredbo Australia

Under-Sung Hero
I had a far better view of the sound-mixing board than I did of the band.

Text: To the MusicNever mind! I’d had a full and rewarding day – the culmination of a weekend with many old favourites and some new and wonderful finds.

Hopefully, I’ll get back again next year.

Until then,

Keep Dancing!

Photos: 19-21January2024

Environmental portrait: Indian man in a purple hat, Haridwar

Man on the Ghats
Mornings are a busy time along the Ganges: pilgrims come from all over India to pay respects and receive blessings from Ganga Ma – the Goddess of forgiveness and purification.

India is a bundle of contradictions: chaos and calm permeate everything in equal measure. The sacred and the mundane rub shoulders. Think of the mingling scents of incense, cow dung, and refuse, and you might get a sense of it.

India is never dull!

Every time I wander Indian streets, I return to my lodgings hot, dusty, exhausted, and emotionally overwhelmed; I also return smiling, abuzz from the experience, and with camera cards full of images.

As I’ve said before, the country is street-portrait heaven. And, even when you don’t find people, the buildings and streets themselves are colourful, textured, and alive with their own personalities.

Thanks to good planning by photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours, I was staying in the middle of Haridwar, a short walk from the sacred ghats on the Ganges, the holiest of Indian rivers (see: Life, Colour, and Chaos).

Join me – and countless pilgrims – for a wander through Haridwar streets.

Front door of Shri Gita Bhagwan in Haridwar India

Shri Gita Bhawan
Haridwar is a holy city and full of ashrams like this one.

Child with a woman resting, Haridwar India

Child with a Woman Resting
Ashrams and temples provide lodging for travellers, but this woman was sleeping in a courtyard. You can tell from the metal kumbh (water pot) sitting here that she is a pilgrim. Who knows how far she and her toddler have travelled?

Inside the courtyard of Maya Devi Temple, Haridwar India

Maya Devi Temple
This little Hindu temple is dedicated to the goddess Maya, mother of Gautama Buddha.

Environmental portrait: Young Hindu priests, Maya Devi Temple, Haridwar India

Hindu Priests
Three young priests watch as I pass through the courtyard.

Man cleaning utensils in front of a doorway, Haridwar India

In the Street
Every corner and cranny in the streets has something happening.

Two story building in orange, Haridwar India

Colourful Building
Colour is everywhere – Shiva’s tridents on the railing above shield the vibrant cloths hanging on the balcony.

Empty rickshaw in a Haridwar street, India

Rickshaw at Rest and Textured Walls

Mannequins in colourful dresses, Haridwar street, India

Mannequins
I find old and battered caucasian mannequins in wildly colourful local clothing rather disconcerting!

Environmental portrait: Indian man with a sewing machine, Haridwar India

Man and Machine
I love watching people operate these old peddle machines – especially when they are running their businesses in the street.

Environmental portrait: man in a woolen hat, Haridwar India

Man in a Woolen Hat

Environmental portrait: old man in glasses, Haridwar India

Old Man in Glasses
Interesting characters are all around.

Environmental portrait: street cobbler, Haridwar India

Street Cobbler
A shoe repairman has carved out a space on the street for his shop. I can’t help but admire his hip flexibility!

Detail: cobbler

Stitching a Strap

Street scene: two Indian men, Haridwar India

The Exchange
The cobbler’s customers know where to find him.

Environmental portrait: policeman in a blue turban, Haridwar India

A Police Presence
Even the local police are prepared to have their pictures made!

Bags of semi-precious bangles and tilaka powder, Haridwar India

Beads and Baubles
Being so close to the holy river, venders take advantage of their location, marketing all kinds of shiny trinkets. They also sell the red sandal paste and other powders used to mark tikas or tikas on one’s forehead in preparation for worship.

Environmental portrait: three men and a woman in front of a jewellery shop, Haridwar India

Travelers
These narrow streets leading to the ghats are always lined with shops and crowded with travellers.

Environmental portrait: a woman in front of a jewellery shop, Haridwar India

Smiling Woman
Most of the pilgrims are happy to have their pictures made. We share smiles, but very little language.

Environmental portrait: a woman in front of a jewellery shop, Haridwar India

Serious Woman
Even without a smile, the gaze is clear and direct.

Detail: Tattooed hands holding a bag of tika powder, Haridwar India

Tattooed Hands and Tika Powder
I was captured by the tribal tattoos all over this older woman’s hands and arms; she graciously let me photograph them.

Environmental portrait: a woman in front of a jewellery shop, Haridwar India

Young Woman in Blue

Women in the waters of the Ganges, Haridwar India

Women on the Steps
The ghats are a happy place, as groups of people gather to pay their respects to the Mother.

Men making bread, Haridwar India

Men Making Bread
You are never too far from freshly made food.

Couple on a bench in the street, Haridwar India

Couple in the Street
People on the move take a break where ever they find a spot. I love how newspapers are an integral part of many Indians’ day.

Environmental portrait: man in a pink turban, Haridwar India

Man in Pink
The roller shutters on shops that aren’t open make a great backdrop!

Environmental portrait: man in an orange turban and dreadlocks, Haridwar India

Man in Orange
So many of the pilgrims walking through town …

Environmental portrait: man in a black turban with a walking stick, Haridwar India

Man in Black
… pause in the shops selling devotional paraphernalia on their way to the ghats.

Environmental portrait: two men in a food shop, Haridwar India

Co-Workers
Friends joke around with me in their shop …

Man in the steam of a pot, food shop, Haridwar India

Stirring the Pot
… before going back to work cooking.

Silhouette of a man in a doorway, Haridwar India

Man in a Corridor
Streets tunnel off in all directions.

Multi story deserted-looking building, Haridwar India

Textured Walls

It was time to make my way back to the quiet shelter of my room and take a few deep breaths before doing it all again.

Until then,

Happy Travels!

Photos: 18-19November2013

Landscape: Overlooking Peyto Lake, Banff National Park, Canada

Overlooking Peyto Lake
You can’t beat the magnificent views in the Canadian Rockies – and the colours of the glacial lakes are just extraordinary!

The informative signposting captures it: What a Colour! – Quelle couleur!

Peyto Lake deserves its reputation as a highlight along the magnificent Icefields Parkway through Canada’s UNESCO-listed Rocky Mountains. But the whole road is a joy.

Highway 93 runs 233 kilometers (143 miles) north-south between Jasper in the Jasper National Park and Lake Louise in Banff National Park. In theory, it takes less than three hours driving time, but you have to factor in ‘stopping time’: you are travelling through continuous scenery. 

I was driving north from Lake Louise, and in my first two hours, I had covered less than 40 kilometres (25 miles) (see: Bow Lake, the Icefields Parkway)! But, I had the information map I had picked up at the Park’s Office, and I had my priorities set.

Peyto Lake was high on my list.

There is nothing quite like a glacier-fed lake to take your breath away. Of course, the walk up to the vantage point over Peyto Lake had already left me breathless! Although I only spent about 45 minutes there, and according to my AllTrails app, I only gained 104 m (341 ft) in elevation, the viewing platform sits at 2,000 meters (6,561 feet). So, I’ll blame the altitude.

Less than half an hour later, I found myself stopping again: this time just for a brief, admiring look over Waterfowl Lakes.

Naturally, I had to walk up to the Athabasca Glacier, one of the six toes ‘toes’ – and the most accessible – of the Columbia Icefield, located just inside Jasper National Park. The walk up to the glacier is lined with informative sign-boards; the easy, gravelly pathway to the shrinking ice gets longer every year as the ice pack recedes. 

Join me for just a few of the sights along the Icefields Parkway.

Through a car windscreen: Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

Driving North on Highway 93N
Every section of road brings new mountain vistas into view through the car windows. (iPhone12Pro)

Straight path up through tall trees, Peyto Lake, Banff Alberta Canada.

The Path
Tall Douglas fir trees (Pseudotsuga menziesii) line the cement path that leads from the Peyto Lake car park up to the platform at the first viewing point over the valley.

People on a large deck overlooking the mountains around Peyto Lake, Banff Alberta Canada.4

Viewing Platform
The mountains rise high around the visitors at the first overlook.

Landscape: Overlooking Peyto Lake, Banff National Park, Canada

Peyto Lake Below
This valley was carved out by the Peyto Glacier which once filled it. The remaining glacier is a mere tongue of the larger Wapta Icefield, which sits high in the mountains south of here.

Landscape: Overlooking Peyto Lake, Banff National Park, Canada

View over Peyto Lake
The lake is named for Bill Peyto, a pioneer, mountain guide, and early Banff National Park warden.

View of Peyto Peak from Peyto Lake Lookout, Banff Alberta Canada.

Mountains around Peyto Lake
Peyto Peak marks the north end of the Wapta Icefield; you can see the ice pack that partially covers Mount Jimmy Simpson behind it.

Path in the woods, Peyto Lake Lookout, Banff Alberta Canada.

Pathways Up
The tracks beyond the first lookout are mostly dirt: some were quite muddy and slippery after the recent snows and rains.

Landscape: Overlooking the south end of Peyto Lake, Banff National Park, Canada

Terminal Moraine: Peyto Lake
Glaciers push, carry, and deposit large quantities of ground rock with them. The stones get deposited at the fronts and sides of the moving ice packs. It is the tiny particles of suspended pulverised rock that give glacial lakes their extraordinary colour.

People sitting on the rocks, Upper Viewpoint, Peyto Lake, Banff National Park, Canada

People on the Lookout
The upper viewpoint is much less formal than the lower overlook. (iPhone12Pro)

Golden-Mantled Ground Squirrel, Upper Viewpoint, Peyto Lake, Banff National Park, Canada

Golden-Mantled Ground Squirrel – Callospermophilus Lateralis
We had company on the rocks!

Landscape: Overlooking Peyto Lake, Banff National Park, Canada

Peyto Lake from the Upper Viewpoint
Even under a rain-filled sky, the colours really are extraordinary. I took one last shot before walking back down the hill to my car.

Through a car windscreen: Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

On the Highway
The next leg of the drive is as spectacular as the others; … (iPhone12Pro)

View over Waterfowl Lakes, Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

Waterfowl Lakes
… but I only drive ten minutes before I feel the need to pull over again – at a viewpoint over Waterfowl Lakes.

Mount Chephren and Waterfowl Lake, Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

Mount Chephren behind Waterfowl Lake

American black bear on the roadside, Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

American Black Bear – Ursus Americanus
Finally! My first bear.

Saskatchewan River Crossing with mountains behind, Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

Saskatchewan River Crossing
Not open in the winter months, this truck-stop offers virtually the only services along the parkway. From here, you can drive east out of the mountains to Red Deer, Alberta. (iPhone12Pro)

Through a car windscreen: Highway 93N, Banff Alberta Canada

On the Parkway
I am still heading north – and I haven’t yet hit the halfway mark! (iPhone12Pro)

Wooden bridge on the walk to the Athabasca Glacier, Jasper Alberta

Walk Bridge : Athabasca Glacier
The Columbia Icefield, which feeds six major glaciers, is the largest icefield in the Rocky Mountains, and worthy of a trip on its own. I, however, was running out of daylight. I ignored the Glacier Discovery Centre, and went directly to the walk that leads to the receding edge of the most accessible ‘toe’, the Athabasca Glacier.

Walkers on the path to the Athabasca Glacier, Jasper Alberta Canada

Walkers on the Path
Unless you are on a guided trip, you are not allowed on the actual ice. But it is a pleasant 2 km (1.2 mi) walk out-and-back to the glacier’s edge. There are plenty of information sign boards along the way.

Athabasca Glacier from the walk, Jasper Alberta Canada

Athabasca Glacier
It doesn’t look like it from here, but the ice pack is between 90–300 metres (300–980 ft) thick. The temperature drops, as what is called a katabatic wind blows downhill off the ice. (iPhone12Pro)

Water running off the Athabasca Glacier, Jasper Alberta Canada

Waters off the Glacier
Even though I know in my head that the ice fields are melting (and markers along the path show how far this one had receded), I’m still startled by the volume of water that races downhill to feed the Athabasca River.

Snow shelf and small rocks, Athabasca Glacier, Jasper Alberta Canada

Snow Shelf
The rocks left behind by the advance and retreat of glaciers over time look like slag heaps of pulverised particles.

Landscape: downhill from the Athabasca Glacier, Jasper Alberta Canada

Downhill from the Athabasca Glacier

Tangle Creek Falls, Jasper Alberta Canada

Tangle Creek Falls
Back on the road, I couldn’t resist another quick photo-stop to admire another pretty waterfall.

Through a car windscreen: Highway 93N, Jasper Alberta Canada

Sunwapta River Valley
There were plenty more stops on offer, but the light would fail soon, and I was getting hungry! Fortunately, I had visited this section of the road before. (see: Close Encounters of the Wild Kind). (iPhone12Pro)

Rain and a rainbow, Jasper Carpark, Alberta Canada

Jasper Carpark
In the last light of the day, a rainbow shone over the railway line running through Jasper. (iPhone12Pro)

The rains that had followed me in the morning returned as I found some dinner – but I was very lucky that the downpours had held off for most of my drive.

The road truly deserves it reputation as one of the world’s top drives – and given all the spots I hadn’t stopped, I was already determined to drive it again!

Until then,

Happy Wandering!

Pictures: 29May2023