Ursula's Weekly Wanders

Young Himba Girl with Beads
The women and girls of Otjomazeva Village in the Kunene region of Northern Namibia lay out beads and trinkets for tourist visitors. This pubescent girl is orange from the ochre paste that Himba females apply daily.

“If you educate a boy, you educate an individual. If you educate a girl, you educate a community.”

-African proverb.

It was the United Nation’s “Day of the World’s Indigenous Peoples” on Tuesday, August 9th. This year’s theme was a subject dear to my heart: the right to education.

Article 14 of the UN Declaration on the Rights of Indigenous Peoples states that: “Indigenous peoples have the right to establish and control their educational systems and institutions providing education in their own languages, in a manner appropriate to their cultural methods of teaching and learning.”

Sounds easy enough. But, how many nations actually provide education in indigenous languages? And, to be fair, even if they tried, how many poorer nations could afford to utilise indigenous languages as the primary means of instruction?

And, who determines “a manner appropriate to their cultural methods of teaching and learning.” Better yet, who determines appropriate content?

Last year, I had the wonderful privilege of spending time with some Himba people in Northern Namibia (see: Mother and Child; Model Shoot). The Himba are a beautiful, proud tribe who have deliberately resisted integration into the modern world.

Linguistically and ethnically related to the more populous Herero, the Himba have wandered across what is now Northern Namibia since the early 16th century. After the crippling bovine epidemic of the late-1800’s, they forged a separate cultural identity, barely surviving attempted genocide under the colonialist German South-West Africa Government (the Herero Wars of 1904–1908), repeated severe droughts, and the guerrilla warfare that was part of Namibia’s war of independence and neighbouring Angola’s civil war.

Today, roughly 50,000 Himba remain, eking out an existence in semi-nomadic villages. While their tribal structure and traditions help them live in one of the most extreme environments on earth, these same strong traditions may be preventing them from forging a bridge with the modern world. At the moment, their only ‘integration’ means earning money from tourists who visit the villages for quickie-tours, and who may buy a few trinkets: money which often gets spent by the men on alcohol in nearby towns (e.g.: Vanishing World). Getting an education means having to dress in western clothes and being exposed to non-traditional values, and often leads to a lowering of pride in, and attachment to, one’s own culture. “Today, traditional Himba culture in Opuwo seems less highly esteemed by other tribes and by Himba youth, and traditionally-dressed Himba are often mocked.”

Unsurprisingly, Austin Cameron, the author of the previous sentence, is referring to male youth. In his Master’s study submitted in 2013 (The Influence of Media on Himba Conceptions of Dress, Ancestral and Cattle Worship, and the Implications for Culture Change), Cameron reports an ongoing widespread belief that females should adhere to traditional dress – except while they were attending school – whereas it was acceptable for men to wear some western clothing at all times.

So where does this leave the Himba with respect to the UN Article 14? Under German and British rule, the Himba associated schooling with Christian missionaries who undermined traditional worship of cattle, the ancestors, and the God Mukuru, for whom a sacred fire is kept lit at all times. Under Namibian law, ten years of schooling is free and compulsory. Schools in Opuwo, capital of the Kunene region and the major urban centre, are modeled after British elementary schools and curriculums, and therefore quite foreign to Himba values. Mobile village schools, originally funded (from 1998) by the government of Norway and Iceland, were taken over by Namibia in 2010 and converted to permanent buildings. According to Wikipedia, Himba leaders have complained that the “culturally inappropriate school system… would threaten their culture, identity and way of life as a people.”

But then, who makes these choices? It is regularly documented that Himba women do much of the day-to-day work: “Women take care of cooking, gardening, milking cattle, looking after children, caring for livestock in the kraal and making clothes, ewellery and otjize.” The men care for the cattle, and are “more involved in political and legal matters.” How much say do individuals – especially females – have in determining whether or not they attend school? In the absence of understanding the broader socio-cultural context, how informed can this decision ever be? And, what – as much as I’d like to promote education – are the unintended negative consequences of educating one’s children in a culturally foreign system?

These were some of the questions running through my mind when I interacted with the girls and women in the village of Otjomazeva.

Into Otjomazeva
The Himba village we visited is a semi-permanent collection of huts surrounded by a simple kraal fence. When we arrived, our photo-tour leader Ben McRae was mobbed by children pleased to see him back.

Fragrant Smoke
On our first visit, we spent time inside one of the dark village huts learning a little about Himba culture. In lieu of using precious water, Himba women “bathe” in fragrant smoke and cover themselves in scented ochre clay and butter paste. (More about that some other time.)

Himba Girl Child
What interested me was the interaction between the infant girl and our participants. I wasn’t sure if mum was just tired, or actually depressed, but whenever the focus was off her, she withdrew markedly. Himba don’t count their ages in years, and no-one could tell me how old the mum was – only that this was her eighth child.

Mother and Child
Himba girls are married off shortly after puberty, so this woman has probably been pregnant or nursing most of her adult life.

The Bridal Headdress
This young girl’s future husband has probably already been selected for her. She didn’t seem thrilled to model the headdress she will wear for her wedding ceremony.

Himba Girl Child
Once she was let loose, on the other hand, she was happy to engage with us.

Himba Girl Child

Young Mum
Data from around the world show that the higher the level of a woman’s educational attainment, the later she is likely to marry and the fewer children she is likely to bear. (e.g.: World Economic Forum) Too late for this beautiful young woman: she’s barely a teenager herself, …

Woman and Child
… but her headdress tells us she has either had a baby or has been married a year.

Young Mum
Her friend, who was not much older, was nursing her first child.

Old Aunties from Angola
Child-minding falls to all Himba women – not necessarily only the children’s parents. This sick or tired child found a lap with one of two visiting relatives from Angola.

Old Auntie
No one knows how old these women are, and I couldn’t help but wonder what they think of the changes they have seen.

The Girl Within
But, when one of the old Aunties finally addressed the camera and smiled, I felt like I could see the coquettish girl she had once been.

Mother Selling Trinkets
Late in the afternoon, the women lay out trinkets for sale to visiting tourists.

Old Woman with Trinkets
Older women don’t always wear their headdresses.

Young Girl with Gourds
This young girl is identifiable as pre-pubescent by the two forward-braids on her head.

Laying out Trinkets for Sale
Older girls going through puberty wear multiple forward-facing braids designed to cover their faces for modesty.

Young Bride
This young woman was relatively newly married.

Himba School Girl
When we returned to the village the next day, I came across this young woman. When I asked our guide (the only English-speaking Himba in the kraal) why she had no braids and was not wearing ochre, I was told it was because she was attending school. Compulsory school uniforms do not accommodate ochre. When I expressed surprise that she wasn’t allowed to keep her hairstyle (I understand the issue with the ochre body-butter, as it leaves marks everywhere), our guide Tom said: “It’s only hair!” But, everything I have read suggests that traditional hair and clothing are integral to Himba identity. I was surprised she had to give up her hair to attend school, and I couldn’t help but wonder who had made that decision for her. It also made me wonder how it was that the other school-aged girls had their hair, but not their studies.

Himba Woman
This beautiful woman has the gentlest soul. She and I couldn’t be more different, but we seemed to have an affinity.

Making Breakfast
Most Himba meals consist of porridge: water is boiled over the fire and some maize or pearl-millet flour is added. Meat – usually goat – is reserved for special occasions.

Young Himba Woman

A Child with a Child
What will the future look like for these semi-nomadic people?

Everyone wins when children — and especially girls – have access to education. An educated girl is likely to increase her personal earning potential and prepare herself for a productive and fulfilling life, as well as reduce poverty in the whole community. Investing in girls’ education also helps delay early marriage and parenthood. Our booming economies in Africa need more female engineers, teachers and doctors to prosper and sustain growth.”

– Angelique Kidjo.

I have no idea how – or if – the Himba will leap that gap between making porridge in a tin and being engineers and doctors.

I also don’t know if a change would make them any happier than they seem to be now.

I wish them luck.

Pictures: 16-18August2015