.jpg) Upward into the Sunlight The early morning light is surreal in the Nepali rhododendron forest as we climb out of Ghorepani towards the Deurali Pass.
There is a mystical magic in the rhododendron forests of Western Nepal …
It was day four of a short trek under the patient and watchful eye of our guide Angfula Sherpa, and I was finally hitting my stride. My husband and I were part of a small group walking the Ghorepani/Poon Hill circuit in the Annapurna Conservation Area of the Himalaya. The walking we had done the three days prior (more abut that anon) had been tough: the constant rocky uphill climbs had taken their toll on my aging knees and hips and my gasping lungs, and had left me wishing sincerely that I had trained better in preparation for what was feeling more like an ordeal than a holiday. I was so much older and less fit than the last time I walked these trails (Heaven and Hard Work).
But, then it all changed:
The walk into the forests on morning of day four was just magic. The stone steps led ever-upward, but not as steeply as they had done the days prior. The world felt hushed – in spite of the constant blanket of birdsong high in the trees overhead. Snow lay in patches on the ground, and mists rose all around us. Morning light angled through the forest of tall rhododendrons, maples, and oaks. And I was smiling.
This is why I love to walk!
.jpg) “Follow the Ponies to Tadapani” We tumble out of our lodgings early in the morning, but the pony trains are on the paths well before us!
.jpg) Fresh Snow and Spent Rhododenrons We are teased by glimpses of Annapurna South as we climb through the tall forests of rhododendrons with their fading flowers.
 Up, Up, Towards the Sun … The early morning light on the pink trunks of the textured and twisting rhododendron trees as we left Ghorepani told me immediately that this morning was going to be different!
 “Leaving Ghorepani” I am constantly in awe of the porters who carry 2-4 times what we do, and make it look effortless.
 Light on the New Growth March is spring in the Himalaya. Left-over snow from a fall two weeks prior hides in the shadows while new growth finds the sun.
 Up through the Sunbeams Spring is also higher-risk season for avalanches further into the Annapurna: less than two weeks before our trek, an avalanche buried a hotel at Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) and killed three tourists. The area was still closed off when we reached Gorepani, making our trails and teahouses much busier as trekkers had to re-route their journeys. Although we shared the way with many other groups, this morning still felt hushed and quiet. I think everyone was captured by the light.
 Mt Dhaulagiri Seventh highest mountain in the world (8167 m – 26,795 ft), Mt Dhaulagiri shows itself through the trees and clouds.
 Annapurna South Although it appears more dramatic than Dhaulagiri, Annapurna South (7219 m – 23,684 ft) is actually much less high.
 Pony and Trekkers at Lower Deurali Pass When we reach a clearing, ponies, porters, and trekkers alike are ready for a rest.
 Pony and Driver The viewing tower at Poon Hill is just visible on the highest hill (3210m – 10,531 ft) behind us.
 At Home in the Mountains Everywhere we go, the people are friendly and welcoming.
 More Up! As the sun rises in the morning sky, we continue to climb.
 Dhaulagiri through a Break in the Forest
 Yak on the Hill Herds of domestic female yaks – more properly called naks, as yaks are male – graze on the high hillside.
 Cairn at Deurali Pass Finally! We reach our highest point for the day (3090 m – 10,138 ft); Annapurna South and Hiunchuli sit majestically in the background.
 Prayers and Mountains Buddhist prayer flags send wishes out on the winds as we admire the mountain views.
 Snowy Trails Thankfully, the rest of our day is (mostly) downhill.
 Machhapuchhare The sacred Fishtail Mountain peaks out through the forest canopy.
 Deurali Dressed in a colour I think of as Himalayan Blue because it is so prevalent in this region, the little town of Deurali comes into sight.
 Tibetan Market Goods The tables in Deurali are loaded with prayer flags, hats and mittens knitted from yak wool, pashmina/cashmere woven scarves, and Tibetan Buddhist trinkets in bronze and bone.
The markets would have to wait …
I was more than ready for my spicy masala tea!
That – and the wonderful mountain air – would keep me going for the rest of the day’s trek.
Until then –
Happy Walking!
Photos: 22March2017
Posted in Landscapes,Nepal,TravelTags: Annapurnas,blog,landscape,nature,Nepal,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
 Giraffe in the Sunrise The view from the truck, as we bounced across the roads in Northern Namiba’s Etosha National Park, was just breathtaking!
It was a dream-come-true: riding around in a truck with a pop-up roof across the open grasslands of Northern Namibia.
When I had the opportunity to travel with a small group of photography enthusiasts under the guidance of photographer Ben McRae and local guide guide Morne Griffiths, I had a momentary pang of guilt: I don’t know how many times my husband and I had planned travel to Africa, only to have something crop up in our schedules to make the trips impossible.
The guilt passed quickly once I was sitting overlooking a Namibian waterhole! (see: A day at the Waterhole)
I had my first taste of the African waterhole experience at a bush camp in Kamanjab, where we stopped overnight before continuing on to the magical Etosha National Park. Waterholes are like a zoo in reverse: people are behind protective fences or in their vehicles while the animals come and go as they please.
It was nerve-wracking driving across the savannah, scanning the seemingly empty horizon and then seeing SOMETHING! anything – and stopping; standing on the seats of the vehicle to aim the cameras out from under the pop-top. Oh, how I envied the other people with their 400mm zoom lenses!
Watching the waterholes, on the other hand, was absolutely mesmerising: you sit, anytime of day or night, and the animals follow their own rhythms – coming and going. We had pitched our tents at Namutoni Camp for two nights, next to the King Nehale Waterhole on the eastern side of Etosha National Park. I could wander out to the waterhole and watch the animals all day long; I could set up my tripod and attempt to take pictures under the low, low, yellow light that was cast over the scene after dark; or I could lay in my tent at night and listen to the jackals fighting over the jerky someone had left in the next tent, with the roar of lions in the distance.
Never mind “Out of Africa”; I was finally in it!
 Waterbuck – Kobus Ellipsiprymnus If you build a waterhole, the animals will come … especially if you are in a game reserve.
 Waterbuck – Kobus Ellipsiprymnus
 Rock Hyrax – Procavia Capensis Many of the animals are a delightful surprise: hyraxes are a primitive mammal with characteristics in common with elephants, manatees and dugongs.
 Rock Hyrax – Procavia Capensis They are like irresistible teddies with grins.
 Pririt Batis – Batis Pririt
 Hyena in the Sunrise An early morning ride in the truck gives us unique views over the veld: the hyenas are up early.
 Hyena (Hyaenidae) on the Veld
 Etosha Pan In the language of the Ovambo people, Etosha means ‘great white place’; the Etosha Pan, which covers approximately 4,800 square kilometres, is the largest salt pan in Africa.
 Gemsbok (Oryx Gazella) The large oryx are a beautiful animal – and a popular menu item in Namibia where “vegetarian” is a foreign concept.
 White Rhino (Ceratotherium Simum) Our reward for getting up early is a white or square-lipped rhinoceros – with a couple of giraffe on the horizon for good measure! The largest of the five rhino species, the white rhino has been brought back from the very brink of extinction, but is still considered threatened.
 White Rhino (Ceratotherium Simum) The massive beast doesn’t tolerate our presence long before shuffling away at surprising speed.
 Kori Bustard (Ardeotis Kori) I couldn’t help but think of “All Creatures Great and Small” as I watched the small birds and huge mammals that co-exist on the savanna. The kori bustard is the largest flying bird native to Africa.
 Guinea Fowl (Numida meleagris) While the fat-bodied guinea fowl can fly, they are more likely to run around at ground level.
 Gemsbok (Oryx Gazella)
 Oryx on the Run
 Springing Springbok (Antidorcas marsupialis) I never tired of watching the dainty-looking springbok hop and run. Protected in Etosha National Park, in nearby game parks, springbok are raised for their popular meat.
 Two Gnus Not the most elegant of antelopes, the large wildebeests tended to cluster near the waterholes. I grew up listening to Flanders and Swann’s songs about animals, including: “I’m a Gnu”. Every time I saw these creatures, I’d end up singing: “I’m a g-nu, spelled g-n-u… You really ought to k-now w-ho’s w-ho!”
 Zebra In distinct contrast with the gnus, the zebras are quite beautiful.
 Laughing Doves
 Black Backed Jackal (Canis Mesomelas) In the evening, as the light and temperature drop, the jackals come out to the King Nehale Waterhole on the eastern side of Etosha National Park.
 Black Backed Jackal (Canis Mesomelas) I love how the angled evening light catches their fur!
 Giraffe at the Waterhole After dark, the animals come out: …
 Giraffes at the Waterhole … singly, and in pairs.
 White Rhinos at the Waterhole The rhinoceroses are a treat; an added layer of hush falls over the animal-watchers around the waterhole when they come out.
 White Rhinos at the Waterhole
 Oryx and Rhino It is fascinating watching all the animals take their turns.
And then, there were the elephants!
They stand alone, so I’ll save them for another day.
Until next time –
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 18-20August2015
Posted in Africa,Animals,Namibia,TravelTags: Africa,animals,landscape,Namibia,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
 “Gado Gado” or Jukut Santok Gado gado means, quite literally, “mix mix”. Gado gado is a mixed vegetable salad combined with a spicy, flavoursome peanut sauce, and is an Indonesian favourite popular in Bali.
One of the many joys of travel is the food. I love food!
I also love markets, and the insight they give into the everyday lives of the local people.
Combine those two components: food and markets, and I am in my element! So, I was very excited to read that the special package deal I’d organised at a resort at Sanur Beach, Bali, included a trip to the market and a cooking class.
My husband and I got up early to meet the chef at the appointed time of 6:30 am and to pick out a bicycle in order to ride the 3.5 kilometres to Pasar Tradisional Desa Sanur, the Sindhu Traditional Market – the principal fresh-food market in the Sanur Village area.
I have never seen a market so clean!
It turns out that this cleanliness is no accident. First opened in 1972, Sindhu Market was originally more ‘traditional’, that is, it was dark and dirty, with piles of refuse and puddles of water under-foot – especially during the rainy season. Because the market is in a tourism area, the Sanur community and the local government decided, in 2009, to renovate the market and promote it as a tourist destination.
Today, the market is beautifully clean, well lit, and orderly. It still services the local community, but it also attracts visitors and their tourist dollars.
After seeing where the ingredients come from, we got to watch them being combined into gado gado and satay lilit.
Join me on a culinary adventure!
 Following the Chef to Market It’s still pretty quiet on the Sanur Beach roads as we follow the chef to the local morning market.
 Fish Sales – Sindhu Traditional Market I spend a lot of time in markets when I’m travelling; this was easily the cleanest and most orderly one I’ve been in. It turns out that that is no accident: in 2009, the Sanur community came together to revitalize the market, renovating the stalls, expanding the aisles, conducting repairs on the ceiling and drainage, before covering the floors and counters with easy-clean white ceramic tiles.
 Chef Widastra Our chef and guide points out some of the herbs and spices commonly used in Balinese cooking, although he confesses that the food that is served at the resort where we are staying comes from a different supplier.
 Shopkeeper While this is a “traditional” market, many of its customers are tourists, and the shopkeepers are friendly and welcoming.
 Market Courtyard
 Butterfly Sewing Machine
 Making Offerings Balinese Hindu practices are a central part of everyday life; …
 Focus on the Working Hands … there are people making offering trays from banana leaf everywhere.
 Placing the Offerings Offerings are bought (or homemade) for placing in front of houses and buildings; on ancestor- or house-shrines; at shrines in temples; and in shops and markets.
 Fresh Greenery One of the beauties of the tropics is the fresh food …
 Flowers … and fresh flowers at every turn.
 Needle-Nosed Fish
 Parrotfishes
 Parrotfishes
 Dishing up Meals You are never far from fresh, tasty food in Bali (or anywhere else in Southeast Asia for that matter!)
 Egg Lady
 Taro, Turmeric, Galangal, and Ginger Balinese food relies on a complex spice and herb mix, including coriander, turmeric, galangal, ginger, chili, nutmeg, lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves. The different rhizomes and root vegetables all look much the same to me.
 Sindhu Traditional Market We take a last look of the market before we leave to cycle back to the resort to have breakfast ahead of attending a cooking class which will show us to how all the ingredients go together.
 Ingredients in the Demonstration Kitchen The ingredients make a colourful display in the demonstration kitchen, where we meet with Chef Dewa who will walk us through the day’s Balinese menu.
 Ingredients for Base Be Pasih The ingredients for the Base Be Pasih – the Balinese Spice Paste for Seafood – are lined up, fresh and colourful.
 Making Satay Lilit Chef Dewa shows us how seasoned minced snapper is attached to skewers of balsa or lemongrass, …
 Making Satay Lilit … continuing until the skewers are ready for grilling.
 Making Peanut Sauce While the fish satay skewers are cooking, Chef Dewa grinds peanuts in a large stone mortar, seasoning with palm sugar, chili, galangal, fried garlic, kaffir lime, and salt before adding water …
 Gado Gado or Jukut Santok … and mixing in the freshly cooked vegetables, to beforemake the gado gado that I love.

And then we got to eat it all. It doesn’t get better than that!
Until next time,
Bon Appétit!
Pictures: 27January2017
Posted in Bali,Food,Indonesia,TravelTags: Bali,blog,environmental portrait,food,Indonesia,market,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
 Waterfalls on the Jenolan River The Jenolan Caves area is as interesting above-ground as it is below.
I lived within easy reach of Australia’s Blue Mountains for many years, and while I’d take visitors up there regularly for day-trips and hikes, I guess I rather took them for granted. I knew some of the stories of the hardships the early explorers (Blaxland, Wentworth, Lawson, and their unnamed servants) faced trying to find a path through the rugged terrain that seems to extend forever (1813), but the current road is a vast improvement over the one forged a year later (1814) by William Cox.
What I didn’t realise was that the Greater Blue Mountains Area was designated a UNESCO World Heritage area of Outstanding Universal Value in 2000 for (among other things) “its exceptional expression of the structural and ecological diversity of the eucalypts associated with its wide range of habitats.” The post-Gondwana isolation of the Australian continent has lead to a unique diversification of plant life.
Just west of the Blue Mountains – but still within the Greater Blue Mountains UNESCO Area, there is a honeycomb of limestone caves considered by many to be one of the world’s most spectacular cave formations. Created about 340 million years ago, the complex is certainly the oldest known and dated open cave system in the world. The network of caverns, set aside as the Jenolan Karst Conservation Reserve, is still being explored, with more than 40 kilometres (25 mi) of multi-level passages identified.
For thousands of years, the waters in some of the caves were used by local indigenous peoples for their healing powers. The first Europeans known to visit and explore the caves were brothers Charles and James Whalan around 1838, and visitors have toured the caves from the 1840s. Today, eleven of the cave systems are open to the public, under the guidance and management of the Jenolan Caves Reserve Trust and the NSW National Parks & Wildlife Service.
I first visited Jenolan Caves back in the early 1980s. Last year, while my husband and I were making plans for a road-trip up-country, Jenolan Caves House advertised some special over-night deals.
The opportunity to go back was too good to pass up!
 Jenolan Cave House Built in 1896, Jenolan Caves House was added to the NSW State Heritage Register in 2004. The rooms have been renovated to include en-suites and modern bedding, but otherwise are little changed from earlier days. Dinner in Chisolm’s Restaurant – in what used to be the Grand Dining Room – overlooking the blue-green mountainside, is a real treat.
 Pink-Purple Wildflowers
 De Burgh’s Bridge Entry to the Grand Arch and Caves House is over an old stone bridge, called Limestone Bridge or De Burgh’s Bridge, built in 1895.
 Cave Guide The light disappears under the Grand Arch where we meet our Cave Guide. She had led the Imperial Cave Tour many times before, and was extremely knowledgable. But, she was as excited as if it was her first time and her enthusiasm was infectious.
 Entrance to the Imperial Cave The easiest cave for visitors because it has the fewest steps, Imperial Cave was first seen by Europeans in 1879.
 Jenolan’s Underground River Down a long spiral staircase in Imperial Cave, we come to an underground river so clear that we can see the limestone-coated rocks on the bottom.
 Ceiling in the Imperial The Imperial Cave tour spends about an hour wandering through the 1070 metres of tunnels and caverns.
 Stalactites, Stalagmites, and Columns The Imperial Cave features the usual beautiful speleothems (crystallised structures made from mineral deposits); …
 Waves of Crystal … these deposits are built on a basis of limestone embedded with ancient marine fossils. More recently, bones of a Tasmanian devil – long extinct on the Australian mainland – and a wallaby have also been found.
 Delicate Stalactites The speleothems are still growing – albeit ever so slowly.
 Curtains and Shawls
 Rain on De Burgh’s Bridge When we came out of the Imperial Cave, the rains had set in.
 Rain on Cave House We called it a day, made a dash for Caves House, and dressed for dinner.
 Purple Wildflowers
 Caves House The next day dawned bright and clear. We walked up the hill to the Binoomea Cut, …
 Guide at the Binoomea Cut … the man-made tunnel entrance leading into the Temple of Baal Cave.
 Crystal Stalactites The two large chambers that make up the Temple of Baal Cave are known for their beauty.
 Angel’s Wing in the Temple of Baal The 9-metre formation known as the Angel’s Wing is one of the largest cave shawls in the world.
 Delicate Flowstones The Temple of Baal was named by early cave explorers after the biblical story of Elijah and the Prophets of Baal.
 The Light Behind
 Curtains in the Temple of Baal
 Rivers of Crystal in the Temple of Baal
 Jenolan River Walk We had just enough time after our cave tour to complete the Jenolan River Walk – a 3 km trip, out and back.
 Water Dragon Plenty of little water dragons …
 Skink on the Path … and skinks were out enjoying the beautiful sunny day.
 Tree Fern on Blue Lake The Jenolan River Walk starts out alongside the beautiful aqua-marine Blue Lake.
 Wier on Blue Lake Blue Lake is man-made; the water from the weir, built in 1908, generated electricity to light the caves and Cave House.
 Rock Orchid – Dendrobium Speciosum
 Waterfall on the Jenolan River
 Leaves in the Light
 Maidenhair Fern – Adiantum Aethiopicum I’m always amazed when plants I used to coax along in my apartment thrive in the wild!
 Red Belly Black Snake – Pseudechis Porphyriacus In the undergrowth below us – well out of harm’s way – a red-bellied black snake suns itself.
 Suspension Bridge The path, while short, has plenty of interest and variety.
 Blueberry Flax-Lilies – Dianella Revoluta
 Waterfalls on the Jenolan River The track ends at a picnic area next to the old Jenolan Caves Hydro Electric plant, and some very pretty waterfalls.
 Back at Blue Lake We retrace our steps …
 Crimson Rosella – Platycercus Elegans … and share our lunch at the coffee-shop with a cheeky rosella before driving back over De Burgh’s Bridge towards home. (iPhone6)

We could have easily spent a lot more time there – there were many more caves we could have explored, and more walks we could have taken…
I hope it’s not another thirty years before I get back!
Until next time…
Pictures: 20-21November2016
Posted in Animals,Australia,Nature,TravelTags: animals,Australia,blog,flowers,landscape,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall,walk
 Great White Lake Chunks of volcanic rock on the foreshore of Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur pay homage to the nearby now-extinct Khorgo Volcano.
Once upon a time, a giant took a large rock and threw it away. The rock made a great hole where it landed. When the giant looked around, he saw a white surface, and he exclaimed: “Look, a white lake!” This exclamation is quite literally the meaning of the Mongolian name for Great White Lake: Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur.
The real story behind the formation of this beautiful fresh-water lake in the Khangai Mountains in central Mongolia is not so very different from the legend: the spewing of lava from the nearby Khorgo Volcano dammed up an old river. The lake remains frozen much of the year – hence the ‘white’ part of its name.
The water was not frozen when I was there last September with a group of photographic enthusiasts organised by Within the Frame and local guides G and Segi. We were staying in the ger camp at the edge of the lake, and although the freeze had not set in, it was truly cold in the gers unless the wood was well lit; I was extremely glad of the hot water bottles photographer Jeffrey Chapman had given us!
After the long hours in the vehicle from Kharkhorin (see: From Kharkhorin to Tariat), I was happy to explore the soggy lake foreshore upon our arrival late in the afternoon, and again the next morning before breakfast – and even gladder when we got to hike up the side of the volcano!
Both are considered important scenic attractions in the Khorgo-Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur National Park, which in turn is the ‘highlight’ of Arkhangai Province, just west of Mongolia’s centre on the northern slopes of the Khangai Mountains.
 View from the UAZ I’m not sure that you’d call it a ‘road’: it was a very rough track our Russian UAZ (Ulyanovsky Avtomobilny Zavod) four-wheel drive vehicles navigated to find Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur. (iPhone6)
 View from the Truck 0ver Great White Lake Somehow, the drivers found the path through, and the lake and the ger camp came into sight.
 Great White Lake – Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur The lake is 20 km long, with a sweeping foreshore.
 Waters and Weed of Great White Lake Nestled in the Khangai Mountains, the lake sits at 2060 metres above sea level. The waters are said to be exceptionally pure, and it is a popular camping and fishing spot.
 Cairns on Great White Lake A spit jutting into Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur is dotted with cairns of black volcanic rock; the foreshore was too soggy for me to get a closer look.
 Mushrooms in the Cow Pats Mushrooms and other fungus revel in the lake’s boggy ground.
 Terkhiin Tsagaan – Цагааннуур Camp This is a busy complex in summer; but of course, when I visited – so close to winter – there were very few tourists.
 Restaurant and Mini-Market A simple wooden building houses a shop and a restaurant. (iPhone6)
 Sunset We have brought our own cook with us, so even though the season is over, we can enjoy dinner as the sun goes down over the lake. (iPhone6)
 Foreshore – Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur The next morning, I picked my way carefully across the driest bits of land I could find.
 Cairn The cairns of rough lava-rock have an offering and a prayer inside.
 UAZ and Guide on the Mountainside After breakfast, we set off for the volcano. Our guide G, wearing his traditional Mongol deel, races back to meet our UAZ. The ‘road’ is more like a series of wandering tracks that meander across the hillside and head nowhere in particular. (iPhone6)
 Ovoo or Obo An ovoo or “magnificent bundle” is a sacred pile of rocks or wood. Intrinsic to Mongolian folk religion or shamanism (also called Tengerism), the piles are homes for the local master spirits. Before continuing up the hill, we conformed to local custom and circled the ovoo three times in a clockwise direction.
 Walkers on Khorgo Volcano The walk up to the crater’s edge is short, and most of the path is quite gentle.
 View over the Taryatu-Chulutu Volcanic Field It’s a rugged landscape, with its volcanic rock, very little soil, and the needles of the scattering of larch trees turned yellow by the crisp autumn weather
 Red Bush on Khorgo Khorgo Crater reaches only 2240 metres above sea level at its highest point, but the extremes of temperature have led to some hardy shrubs.
 Basalt Rocks on Khorgo Volcano
 Inside the Khorgo Cone The Khorgo crater is quite small. The last active volcano in Mongolia, Khorgo’s final eruption was some 8000 years ago.
 Walking down the Khorgo Volcano
 Signpost on Khorgo Volcano The artist’s impression of the scene in front of us gives some indication of the colours the volcano might wear in summer.
It was a great way to get the circulation moving a little before we returned to our UAZs and continued the long, bumpy drive west.

Until next time,
Happy Rambling!
Pictures: 23-24September2016
Posted in Mongolia,Nature,TravelTags: blog,landscape,Mongolia,National Park,nature,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
« Older posts
Newer posts »
|
Hi Ursula!
I really enjoyed the photos and story. I am afraid that I wouldn’t be able to go on a trek like this anymore. I developed serious nerve damage in my lower spine after a bout of sciatica a couple of years ago.
I found carrying all my Nikon gear and Think Tank belt system around Thailand a real ordeal so bought my first micro four thirds camera 18 months ago. What a revelation! I sold off all my Nikon gear and reinvested the money into my new system, adding a second body and full compliment of lenses. I love the small rangefinder style bodies and combined with prime lenses am having a ball!
Hi Guava,
Lovely to ‘see’ you! Sorry to hear about your sciatica. I was very worried that my knees and hip might give out during our trek, but was very lucky. I did take my anti-inflammatories every day… the joys of aging!
A lot of my pro friends are on the new mirrorless systems, and I watch them with envy. I can’t afford the swap, but at least my Spiderbelt keeps them off my neck.
Cheers,
Ursula
[…] trek under the guidance of Angfula Sherpa. We had set out early from Ghorepani (see: Magical Mists and Mythical Mountains) and had worked our way up through the misty morning sunlight, our steps rising incessantly until […]
Hi,
Most inspiring.Looking forward to the rest of your amazing journey.
Hi Sidran!
So nice to have your company. It was, indeed an amazing trip. 😀