View to South Thormanby Island Buccaneer Bay Provincial Park is a 45 hectare marine park comprising the tidal sandy foreshore between South and North Thormanby Islands.
Is there anything better than woods and water on a sunny summer day?
Summer on Canada’sWest Coast is elusive and short. This year, my husband and I spent some time on the waters of Georgia Strait – the waters between Vancouver Island and the mainland coast of British Columbia (BC) – in a sail boat, chasing summer.
I love sailing. But, I love new harbours even more.
I especially love the relief of being tied up on a pier or being anchored in a sheltered bay.
This is – at least in part – because we are not very experienced sailors. Letting us loose on the water is as nerve-wracking as it is thrilling.
One particular July day, after a few short trips fraught with mechanical and other glitches, we left our home port of Nanaimo on Vancouver Island mid-morning. After we had raised the sails on Graystone, an old 38-foot Hughes, and set our heading almost due north out of Departure Bay, we could see dark rain clouds rolling in from the northwest over Georgia Strait and looming over the island behind us. We galloped across the 20+ nautical miles between us and the mainland at speeds of 7 nautical miles per hour or so – about the limits of our boat’s capabilities – riding the swells of the strait in 20 knot winds.
We managed to just outrun the rain, and it was with a deep sigh of relief that we ducked into the sheltered waters of Buccaneer Bay and anchored in time for dinner.
We had chosen Buccaneer Bay as a destination because it sits surrounded by North and South Thormandy Islands, about 20 kilometres off the BC mainland. The lay of the islands protects the bay from the winds that can rush up or down Georgia Strait, making it a relatively safe and comfortable anchorage.
We also chose it because we’d never been there.
It’s hard to resist the opportunity to explore new terrain!
Nightfall over Buccaneer Bay Once the anchor is set and dinner from the tiny galley has been eaten, a nightcap in the cockpit is a perfect way to watch night fall over Buccaneer Bay. (iPhone6)
Mosquitos as Big as the Moon Thank heavens for portable fly-screens across the companionway! The mosquitos were as big and as innumerable as we had been warned. (iPhone6)
It’s a Beautiful Day! Morning dawned warm and fair over our boat, so we rowed the dinghy to Buccaneer Bay Provincial Park, the small marine park of sand and water between North and South Thormanby Islands. The beach opposite, overlooking the Salish Sea, was already busy with campers and other visitors.
Swim Weather The shallow waters of Buccaneer Bay are warm, and attractive to swimmers.
North Thormanby Logs wash up onto the low sandbar of Buccaneer Bay Provincial Park between North and South Thormanby Islands.
Fallen Log Water, sand and weather polish the logs smooth over time.
Tangled Roots
Gumweed (Grinvelia Stricta) The plants here are not commonly found in the rest of BC, but they are well adapted to this terrain of shifting sand and water.
Dune Grass (Leymus mollis) and Beach Pea (Lathyrus japonicus) Buccaneer Bay Provincial Park was designated to protect this rare coastal ecosystem.
Row Boat – South Thormanby The islands – and the Provincial Park between them – are accessible only by boat: water taxis or private vessels.
South Thormanby The foreshore of South Thormanby Island is dotted with private holiday cottages. There is no public access through this land, which separates Buccaneer Bay Provincial Park from Simson Provincial Park, on the other side of the island.
Low Tide Buccaneer Bay has a sandy foreshore …
Sand Worm … which is home to all manner of creatures.
Shells on the Beach
Sandpipers Small sandpipers wade in the waters of low tide, looking for food.
North Thormanby Even at low tide, …
Buccaneer Bay Provincial Park … pools of water remain on the sandy spit between the islands.
Buccaneer Bay Provincial Park Standing in the waters at the edge of the Salish Sea, visitors to the park enjoy the quiet.
Western Red Cedar It is a steep kilometre climb up from the beach to the public road on the ridge of North Thormanby Island.
European Black Slug (Arion Ater) The recent rains have brought out the slugs: black slugs …
Pacific Banana Slug (Ariolimax Columbianus) … and yellow.
Fallen Fir The road is little more than a track, bordered by trees …
High on the Ridge – North Thormanby … and multi-million-dollar properties with killer views. We didn’t trespass too far, but we could just see the mast of our boat far below.
Canada Geese Back in our “home” on the waters of Buccaneer Bay, we were joined by Canada geese looking for dinner.
When we weren’t on the islands, we sat on the boat watching the oystercatchers skimming across the water, we marvelled at the bald eagles as they dove down from the trees, and we laughed as the sea lions frolicked.
Chiusi on a Hilltop It seems that every hilltop in central Italy – that region where Umbria and Tuscany border each other – is home to a fortified medieval town or city.
Late summer last year, my husband and I were in central Italy enjoying the sun – and the sun-drenched olives and tomatoes and grapes – that Italy is known for.
We were holidaying Italian style: we rented a wonderful villa in the tiny town of Gioiella, Umbria (Villa Gioiella), practically on the border of Tuscany, and packed the rooms with three generations of friends and family. We filled the house with wine (so many bottles that it took more than one trip to the recycling depot!), fresh food, late nights and laughter.
The days were long and lazy – but we did get out to explore some of the local countryside, albeit not very efficiently, thanks to many “lost in translation” moments. For example: we drove two hours to the medieval hilltop village of Roccatederighi to take part in their “Medieval Times in the Borgo of Roccatederighi (Grosseto)”, which happens on the first weekend of August – only to discover that we were a week early! It seems that “the weekend” starts on Friday in Italy. On the other hand, we were late for (and therefore, missed out on) our pre-paid visits to the Etruscan tombs near Chiusi because we understood we were to arrive some time after 4pm, not by 4pm.
But, the sun was shining, the wine was good, the food was fabulous, and there were so many places to visit that I think we had more than our fill of culture and history.
Join me for a few highlights from the medieval towns that sit amid the rolling hills and vineyards of central Italy.
Around every Medieval Corner… As the roads crossed back and forth between Umbria and Tuscany, we were treated to repeated scenes of red roofs against dusty green olive orchards and fluffy white clouds against blue skies. (iPhone6)
Steps to the Citadel Castiglione del Lago, Umbria, was the city closest to us, so it was where we spent much of our time. Like other medieval cities, the best access was on foot: we’d park in the “newer” neighbourhoods, and walk up to the old walls of the “Castle of the Lion on the Lake.”
The Fortress and the Fountain The Castle of the Lion was built on an island in the southwest region of Lake Trasimeno in the mid-1200s. Over time, the growing city extended beyond this original island by land-bridge, leaving the well-preserved medieval fortress and historical centre bounded by water on the remaining three sides.
The Fortress of the Lion The pentagonal-shaped castle was built by Emperor Frederick II and finished in 1247 CE.
Inside the Old City The old fortified city and its three piazzas are now filled with shops and restaurants.
Old City Gate Three gates lead in and out of the old city.
Bell Tower There are three churches within the old city walls; the bell tower of the Church of Santa Maria Maddalena is the most visible. (iPhone6)
Saleswoman It is the people that make a city. The people in Castiglione del Lago are passionate about their food: …
Saleswoman … their wine, their olive oil, their soup mixes, and in this case, their truffles. The truffles here were the absolute best, she assured us.
Painted Ceiling The Renaissance style Palazzo della Corgna or “Ducal Palace” was predominantly painted in the late 1500s. It now operates as a museum.
Window over the Fortress From the Ducal Palace you can look to the walls of the fortress…
Through the Corridor … or you can walk to them through the covered corridor, built in the early 1600s.
Castle Courtyard From the Medieval Fortress, looking back to the Ducal Palace, the most predominant feature is the olive grove.
On top of Castle Walls We enjoyed glorious summer weather as we walked around the ramparts.
The Lake Beyond There are great views over Lake Trasimeno and the surrounding countryside from the top of the castle walls.
Up a Castle Turret The Castle of the Lion (Castello del Leone) features square towers in four of its five corners and a triangular shaped bastion in the fifth.
Looking over Lake Trasimeno
Sun on the Ramparts
Castle Ramparts
Olive Grove Ancient olive trees grow in the shelter of the ancient walls. They may well have been planted when the fortress was new: olive trees often grow to be centuries old.
Castiglione del Lago Street Outside the museum/castle grounds, the old streets are cobbled, narrow and charming.
Scooter Nothing says “Italy” to me like a scooter – even if it is a Japanese model!
Tile City Map Outside the old walls, there is a ceramic tile map of the city sights and surrounds.
The Citadel A late evening sky makes the Castle of the Lion (Castello del Leone) look even more imposing.
War Memorial Of The First And Second World War (1923) Chiusi, only thirty minutes away in Tuscany, is another charming medieval city who’s origins date back even further, to the ancient Etruscans and the centuries before the Modern Era.
Chiusi Arch The cobbled laneways in these old, medieval cities are narrow, winding, and often covered with arches. They are also well lived in: festooned with laundry and decorated with colourful plants.
Inside “Saint Secondiano the Martyr” The history in the buildings goes back for years: the Saint Secondiano the Martyr Cathedral dates to the 6th century.
Chiusi Street Tourists admire the old, narrow, streets. (iPhone6)
Statues in the Atrium Chiusi is known for its National Archaeological Museum which houses priceless Etruscan artefacts.
Canopus Headed Urn The Etruscans, from whom the name “Tuscany” is derived, had a complex civilisation. Although little is known about their origins, they left behind artworks in terracotta and bronze, and elaborate underground tombs. This beautiful bronze canopic jar dates to the 6th Century BC.
Etruscan Canopic Urn A terracotta head and other pottery, dating to 675-650 BC.
Etruscan Sarcophagus An ancient sarcophagus, dating back to about 800 BC: the sarcophagus itself depicts the battle of the Greeks against Gauls. Many of the sarcophagi were carved from la pietra fetida, a type of limestone that smells due to its sulphur content.
Roccatederighi Another medieval city on another hillside, Roccatederighi comes alive for its annual medieval festival; what a shame we missed it!
Sunset Many were the bottles of wine we drank as the sun went down over Gioiella, Umbria, Italy.
Avalokiteśvara Gandantegchinlin, “the great place of complete joy”, is one of Mongolia’s most important monasteries. The central attraction is a 26m statue of Avalokiteśvara, a bodhisattva who embodies the compassion of all Buddhas.
The best way to immerse yourself in a new culture is to spend time where local people congregate and worship.
In the early morning of my first day in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, I took a taxi across the busy city centre from my hotel in the east, to the country’s largest monastery, Gandantegchinlen (“the great place of complete joy”) Khiid, west of city centre.
According to the national census of 2010, 53% of Mongolians identify as Buddhist (38.6% profess no religious affiliation, leaving very small proportions practicing traditional Mongolian shamanism, Christianity and Islam).
The country experienced its first wave of Buddhism in the third century B.C, but over the years, the religion’s fortunes have waxed and waned with the political tides. Gandantegchinlen Khiid (Gandan Monastery) was originally built in the centre of Ulaanbaatar in 1810, and was moved to its current location by the 5th Bogd Jebzundamba (the Spiritual Head of Tibetan Buddhism in Mongolia) in 1838. It grew into a complex of colleges of Sutra-Tantra Buddhist teachings, Astrology and Medicine.
Mongolian Buddhism flourished into the early twentieth century, with 843 major Buddhist centers, about 3,000 temples of various sizes, and nearly 6000 associated buildings by 1934. However, the Stalinist religious purges of 1937 took their toll. By 1940, nearly every monk across the country was either dead or had apostatised. Although most of the buildings in the Gandan Monastery were destroyed, it remained open for international display purposes. The Monastery, and its community of 100 monks, didn’t come back to proper life until the 1990s, when Buddhism was once again practiced openly.
Gandantegchinlen Khiid is the largest monastery and temple complex currently in use in the country.
In religious environments there are many photographs which can’t be taken: young monks performing their prayers, ordered by age and rank as they sit on hard wooden benches in expansive rooms with lofty ceilings but little light; or community members in distress seeking comfort and blessings from elders and abbots.
In any event, photographs never quite capture the smell of the incense, or the thrumming drone of Buddhist prayers reverberating against ancient walls.
But, they can give one a small peek into a different world.
Monks Bang the Morning Gong At 9 am, young monks give a single bang to the gong in the drum tower of Gandantegchinlen Monastery, calling all the resident monks to prayers. I was expecting three gongs, so I almost missed them! (iPhone6)
Tashchoimphei Datsan (Monastic College) Their gong-ringing completed, the young monks return the gong to the Datsan …
Old Woman at the Datsan … where resident monks and people from the local community gather for morning prayers.
Golden Roof Mongolia’s famous blue skies are clear – with just an echo of the moon – over a golden Datsan roof.
Deer and the Dharma Wheel Another roof is adorned with the Buddhist symbols of the deer, representing the Buddha’s first sermon at Deer Park, and the Dharma Wheel, which represents the content of the Buddha’s teaching itself.
Incense Burner in the Courtyard As the morning prayers drone on inside the Datsan, people keep arriving, stopping for some incense smoke …
Monk on the Steps … before going inside to take their place for the chanting.
Prayer Wheels Brass prayer wheels invite you to walk the prayer circuit, …
Saying Prayers … spinning the wheels and offering your prayers as you go.
Building inside the Monastery Complex
Vajradhara Temple Built in 1840, the Vajradhara Temple houses a statue of Vajradhara, a Buddha from Tantric practice.
Relics, Buddhas and Icons
Migjid Janraisig Sum Ulaanbaatar is a confusion of old and new.
Gandantegchinlen Stupa
Roof Detail
Migjid Janraisig Sum Built in 1911, Migjid Janraisig Sum features elements of traditional Chinese, Mongol and Tibetan architectural styles.
Door Knocker Heavy doors lead into the dim interior of Migjid Janraisig Sum.
Ayush : “Long Life” The walls of Migjid Janraisig Sum are lined with images of Ayush, the Buddhist god of longevity.
Avalokiteśvara In the centre of the Migjid Janraisig temple, the tallest indoor Buddhist statue in the world – the 26.5-meter-high Avalokiteśvara or “Lord Who Looks Down” – stands over us. Covered in gems and gold leaf, this 1996 statue replaced the original copper one, reputedly dismantled by the Russians in 1938.
Prayer Candles The temple is dimly lit with candles …
A Girl and her Father … which illuminate worshipers.
Prayer Candles
Lighting Candles In a separate nearby building, a man lights countless candles.
Sustained by the memory of flickering candles and the blessings of chanting monks, it was an easy walk back through the streets of Ulaanbaatar, to the hotel.
Chinese Lanterns The entrance to the old town of Hội An is marked by colourful silk lanterns against a winter sky.
Irony: the future of the little city of Hội An has literally been saved by it’s own past demise.
Hội An (會安) means “peaceful meeting place”. Once upon a time, particularly between the seventh and 10th centuries, this strategic port near the mouth of theThu Bon River was part of the Chăm Pa Kingdom (192-1832). The Cham, who were seafarers and traders, controlled the spice trade, and so commanded great wealth and territory before being absorbed and annexed by the Đại Việt (Great Viet) under the Lê dynasty.
Around 1595, under thefeudalNguyễn lord Nguyễn Hoàng, Hội An was established as an international trading port. By the 18th century, the city was considered by many to be the most important trade port on the East Vietnam Sea, or even in all of Asia. Japanese, Chinese, Indian, and Dutch merchants had made their homes there, as had Portuguese Jesuits. Their architectural legacy remains in the “well-preserved complex of 1,107 timber frame buildings, with brick or wooden walls” that are still standing in the old town.
The collapse of Nguyễn rule following the Tây Sơn uprising (1770-1802) marked the end of Hội An’s importance. The Tây Sơn brothers, who saw themselves as champions of the common people, were opposed to foreign trade. When Emperor Gia Long (Nguyễn Phúc Ánh of Nguyễn) defeated the Tây Sơn in 1802, he gave the French exclusive trading rights to nearby Đà Nẵng. That, and the silting up of the Thu Bon river mouth, sealed the fate of Hội An, ensuring its status as a backwater that remained frozen in time.
A single entry ticket to the Ancient Town, costing 120,000 dong, or just over $5 USD, gives you entrance to five of the museums or designated old buildings within the precinct. I don’t think we actually used all five coupons: we spent a lot of our time trying on assorted bamboo-fibre and woven-silk clothing, and visiting some of the countless souvenir and coffee shops that now occupy the old shophouses.
Join me for a relaxing afternoon/evening wandering the ancient streets of old Hội An.
Hội An Old Town Street The streets are tree-lined and shady – it must be lovely (but crowded) in summer! Alas for us, is is still winter, and unseasonably cold. The streets are fairly quiet.
“Ticker” Our first stop is at the Đình Cẩm Phô Đình, the Dinh Cam Pho Communal House, where the Ticket Taker is careful to vet us before we enter.
Dinh Cam Pho The Cam Pho Communal House was restored in 1817 – there is no information inside the temple courtyard to tell us when it was originally built.
Inside the Dinh Cam Pho Communal House Apparently, the communal house was built in the shape of the Chinese character that means “country” – the only information I could find about the building was badly translated, and difficult to understand. Certainly, the roof-ridge and gable ornamentation are Chinese-style.
Mickey Mouse Plant (Ochna Serrulata) Colourful flowers bloom where they are planted in their terracotta pots around the courtyard.
Shrine The Dinh Cam Pho Communal House was built as a shrine for the god of the village, and later included worship of Cam Pho Village ancestors – hence the alternate name: “Cam Pho Huong Hien” (Ancestors of Cam Pho Village).
Street Food Outside the Dinh Cam Pho Communal House, women sit selling freshly cooked corn.
Linh Pham Shop Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai road is lined with shops selling manufactured goods and handicrafts. The clothing stores, with silk, cotton, wool, and bamboo-fibre products, seemed particularly good value, and we came home with several items.
Hoi An Shop Paintings, pottery and handicrafts are on offer – as are intricate cards of paper decoupage.
Hoi An Gallery The shophouses are beautiful maintained.
Old Town Laneway
Descendent Our next stop was at the Nguyen Tuong Ancient Family Chapel – also called the “Ong Lon Palace”(Dinh Ông Lớn) – where a young descendent of Nguyen Tuong, who build the temple in the beginning of the 19th century, shows us around.
Betel Juice Grannie Old Chinese coins and other trinkets are for sale in the street.
Guide in the Phung Hung House The old Phung Hung House is one of several open to the public.
Embroiderer Although the Phung Hung Old House is beautiful with its open stairways and dark timbers, the focus of the tour is the production and sale of hand embroidered tablecloths and handkerchiefs.
View from the Phung Hung Old House The balcony on the second floor is rickety, but gives a good vantage point over the street markets.
Thu Bồn Riverfront
Japanese Covered Bridge The Japanese had a community on one side of a small stream. In 1593, they built a unique covered bridge (Chùa cầu) to connect them to the Chinese community on the other side of the water.
Shrine: Japanese Covered Bridge Inside the bridge is a shrine to Tran Vo Bac De, the Taoist deity of storms and weather.
Bảo tàng Văn hóa Sa Huỳnh The Sa Huynh Culture Museum contains pottery and other artefacts from the Sa Huỳnh culture, dating back over 2000 years.
View of the Street from the Sa Huynh Culture Museum The exhibits in the museum are dark and dusty; I amused myself by taking street photos through the railings in the courtyard.
Fresh Vegetable Markets As night fell, the markets got busier …
Silk Lanterns … and the silk lanterns came into their own.
The Japanese Bridge One of Hoi An’s most popular tourist attractions, the covered Japanese Bridge is beautiful under lights, …
Lovers at the Japanese Bridge … making it a perfect spot for romantic, after-dark photographs.
It is, indeed, like walking into the past –
– but with good food and excellent souvenir shopping.
Flowers in the Rocks The mountains of Southern California are well known for their sunny blue skies and outdoor activities.
California, the third largest state in the USA, covers some remarkable terrain. With almost 900 miles (1450 km) of Pacific coastline and several mountain ranges, the topography ranges from magnificent forests of giant redwoods to the subtropical Mojave desert.
The state is also home to two of the US’s top-five most populous cities, with their notorious fogs and smogs, and home to my least favourite airport. If I have to travel through Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), I always heave a sigh of relief when I break free from it.
So it was last June: we dragged our bags out of one of LAX’s terminals, got into a shuttle bus, and finally pointed our rental car east towards San Bernardino. We drove along the multi-lane Foothill Freeway(Interstate 210), not slowing down until we escaped the basin of smog that hung over the lowlands, and started climbing into the San Bernardino Mountains and some welcome fresh air.
Our final destination was the small resort city of Big Bear Lake. The lake for which the city is named is Southern California’s largest recreation lake, and the surrounding hills are criss-crossed with hiking and biking trails.
One of the most popular walks is the short, steep Castle Rock Trail; I was glad I had a new walking stick!
Join us for an uphill-hike.
California Highway 210 Over an hour out of Los Angeles, and the smog is still with us, hanging over the San Bernardino lowlands and almost obscuring the mountains ahead. (iPhone6)
Bend in the Road Finally we rise up out of the smog, into the fresh air above, twisting and curving our way up into the mountains. (iPhone6)
Pathway up to Castle Rock The Castle Rock Trail is a short (1.3 mile; 2 km), but very steep, walk up to a beautiful rocky crag. The return route is by the same track.
Path to Castle Rock The first half of the hike is the steepest; we ascended through granite boulders and shrubs …
Sun in the Pines … as tall pines touched the sky over our heads.
Rocky Pathway The dry, sandy ground is littered with boulders.
Western Fence Lizard The sun has brought out countless little lizards – almost invisible against their rocky back-drop.
Tree Trunk Most of the trees here are Jeffrey Pine, but there are also Ponderosa Pine, White Fir, Western Cedar and Incense Cedar.
Tree Tops The pines are incredibly tall and straight.
Walkers on the Path Because this trail is so popular, it has a reputation for being over-crowded. We were lucky – even though it was a Saturday, the other walkers were scattered.
Blossoms on the Bushes The summer heat has brought out the blossoms. I thought this was Ocean Spray (Holodiscus discolor), but now I’m not sure.
Steep Climb It feels as if the path will never level out, as we gain over 500 feet (152 m) …
Rocky Terrain … before cresting into more level – but just as rocky – terrain.
Uprooted Trees Fallen trees line the pathway like sculptured art; –
Almost Abstract – their intricate surfaces polished by wind and sand.
Sap on a Log Like jewelled amber, beads of sap sit against slowly decaying wood.
Textured Wood
Rock with Character Finally! Another signpost, indicating that we are on track, comes into view.
Tree on a Rock Castle Rock itself requires a bit of clambering; with two cameras and a tricky knee, I decided against it! It was nice enough sitting on the view points just below the summit.
Pine Needles
Purple Wildflowers As we walk carefully back down the hill, we pause to admire the various wildflowers.
Indian Paintbrush (Castilleja)
Like a Sphinx The lake comes back into view as we descend …
Long Shadows … into long afternoon shadows.
The walk down the hill was much quicker than the walk up! While it was only a short hike, the combination of heat, elevation gain (690 ft / 211 m), and starting altitude (Big Bear Lake sits at 6,752 ft / 2,058 m), had us happily exhausted by the time we returned to our car.
Still, we recovered enough over dinner that we were out on a different track the next day. 😀
[…] It was early summer – hot and dry – when we stayed there; ideal walking weather. Unfortunately, I was not-long off crutches after breaking my knee, and for the first several days had to satisfy myself with moderate strolls around town. Towards the end of the week, though, my husband and I grabbed our walking sticks and challenged ourselves to the short, but very steep, Castle Rock Trail. […]ReplyCancel
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
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- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
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What a wonderful place to put down anchor!
Food, family, friends…
It was a great trip!