Umbrella Trees over Rushing Water Once upon a time, I had a four-foot (120 cm) umbrella tree (schefflera actinophylla) in a pot in my living room – carefully protected against the sub-zero temperatures outdoors. I never once imagined I’d see them growing, high over my head, in their natural tropical habitat! Here in the Daintree Tropical Rainforest, Rex Creek races towards the Mossman River under my feet.
The Daintree National Park is just magic!
The Daintree Tropical Rainforest, which the Park protects, is Australia’s largest remaining rainforest. Part of the UNESCO-listed“Wet Tropics of Queensland”, it covers over 1,200 square kilometres (463 square miles), and is home to a unique and complex ecosystem, housing many plants and animals not found anywhere else in the world. It is estimated to be between at least 135 million and 180 million years old – making it the oldest surviving tropical rainforest in the world.
The forest stretches from Cape Tribulation in the north, to the Daintree River Estuary in the south, running in a narrow strip (23 km / 14 mi) between the mountains of the Great Dividing Range and the Pacific Ocean. The Park, officially called the Daintree National Park (CYPAL/Cape York Peninsula Aboriginal Land), is broken into two sections: Mossman Gorge and Cape Tribulation, with an area of long-settled agricultural lands and two small towns (Mossman and Daintree Village) in between.
Early in my stay in the far-north town of Port Douglas, I had made the trip into the northern section of the park (see: Tropical Rainforest Magic). I have visited Mossman Gorge in the southern section twice before: once in the early 1980s, and once in the 1990s.
Needless to say, while the rainforest itself seems timeless, I found the infrastructure much changed! Following Google Maps, I made my way to the car park outside the very modern Mossman Gorge Cultural Centre. Opened in June 2012, the Centre is the starting point for local Indigenous-led Ngadiku Dreamtime Walks. When I visited, COVID-19 restrictions were still very much in place, so those walks weren’t happening. The Centre is also home to information about the area, a collection of Indigenous art, all-important coffee and food services, and ticket sales for the essential shuttle-bus to the starting point for walks into the gorge.
February is wet season in Far North Queensland and the weather lived up to its monsoonal reputation: it absolutely poured with rain for much of my walk. At times, hiking on a more-distant path, I had no choice but to wade through large puddles and, at one point, an impromptu rivulet. Fortunately, the water under foot was warm enough, and I was sheltered from any wind, so I could use my umbrella to protect my cameras.
Come for a wander in the the tropical rain:
“Welcome to Baral Marrjanga” There’s no footpath or pedestrian access from the car park to the Gorge, but the shuttle bus was running regularly. Signposting near the bus stop at the Mossman Gorge day-use area points me on my way.
Baral Marrjanga Track The first 330 metres (0.21 mile) of track is an accessible elevated boardwalk leading through the lower canopy of the jungle.
Ferns, Palms, and Creepers The light is dim and filtered under the canopy, and when it is not raining, the air is hot, humid, and still.
Rushing Waters Swollen creeks all race towards the Mossman River, enroute to the Pacific Ocean.
Cassowary Plum – Cerbera Floribunda Lush vegetation is all around.
Jungle Greens The forest is a patchwork of light and dark.
Rainforest Colours A little splash of colour provides contrast with the greens – and food for the native wildlife.
Red Berries I tried – and failed – to identify many of the plants along my route.
Stone Steps Although there are new non-slip surface on the flat sections of path, the old stone steps are slick with rain; I’m glad to have my walking stick for stability.
Rex Creek Bridge Track I think everyone who visits here takes this same picture of the waters of Rex Creek cascading over granite boulders. In fact, I took it twice: on the way out, and the walk back!
Umbrellas in the Rain The current suspension bridge across Rex Creek was built in 2010 to replace the earlier one constructed in 1986 by army engineers. It’s not particularly good looking, but allows wonderful views into the rushing waters.
The Rainforest Circuit Track After the suspension bridge, I picked up the circuit track.
Rocky Path Although mostly well marked, this section of the track is less formal, …
Vines and Roots in the Path … and you definitely need to watch your step!
Rockpool
Woods Tall trees line the sandy track.
Buttress Roots on the Forest Floor Spreading roots help rainforest trees improve their stability and maximise their oxygen and nutrient intake.
And Back Again! The 3.4 km (2.1 mi) Rainforest Circuit Track brings me back to the suspension bridge.
Cascading Waters in the Rain The rain continues – in drops so large I can see them!
Nest in the Treetop This is another view of Rex Creek that appears in pictures everywhere.
Raintrees (Albizia saman) in Mossman After my walk, I drove the short distance to the historic little town of Mossman. There is a real irony in having introduced trees on the main street of a town that is next to a Heritage-listed native rainforest!
In the Trees Above The 120-year-old trees from Jamaica are covered in bromeliads and epiphytic ferns. (iPhone12Pro)
St David’s Church This pretty little heritage-listed Anglican church in Mossman was built in stone some time after the 1911 cyclone destroyed the original wooden building.
Church Bell World wars, further cyclones, and escalation in material costs, all interfered with rebuilding the Byzantine-style stone church, and the building wasn’t completed until 1952.
Nothing was as I remembered it.
But, the whole area is an absolute gem, so it was a joy to explore it, as if for the first time!
Priests on the Steps Every evening around sundown, Hindu priests on the ghat at Har Ki Pauri, Haridwar, perform the Ganga Aarti, a ritual venerating the Ganges.
In the ancient Hindu holy city of Haridwar, on the banks of the sacred river Ganga, there is a ghat (set of steps down to the river) that is said to to have been built in the first century BC by the legendary King Vikramaditya. Called Har Ki Pauri, which means the feet of Lord Vishnu (Hari), it is claimed that in the Vedic (ancient period) times, Vishnu left his footprint on a stone wall here.
This is the point at which the Ganges leaves the mountains and enters the plains. According to ancient and medieval Hindu texts, it is also one of the four sacred spots in India where the nectar of immortality (Amrit) fell to earth during a battle between good and evil.
As a consequence, Har ki Pauri is the most sacred Gangesghat in India. It hosts several special festivals, most notably the Kumbh Mela, which takes place every twelve years (see: Kumbh Mela).
The site is also celebrated for the river itself: according to legend, the Mother Goddess Ganga (Ganga Ma/Mata), with the help of the Hindu God Lord Shiva, came to earth here in the form of a celestial river, the Ganges. Every evening at sundown, priests on the ghats at Har ki Pauri perform the Ganga Aarti, a religious prayer giving thanks to the Goddess.
An aarti is a ritual of light, and always includes jyoti, holy flames. At the Ganga Aarti, the priests perform their chanted prayers with bowls of fire, and tall, flaming candelabras, which they circle clockwise while facing the river. It is a noisy affair, with the priests accompanying their chanted prayers with the ringing of temple bells, and the clashing of cymbals.
The practice is a delight to watch or participate in. The devotees are always happy to be there – making them friendly, welcoming, and willing to be photographed. This was my second evening visit to the ghats of Haridwar with photographer Karl Grobl and local guide DV Singh (see: People After Dark).
Join me for some more environmental portraits from the ghats.
Sadhu on the Ghat Pilgrims – including holy men – come to the ghats on the Ganges from all over the country.
Woman in Green Many pilgrims travel with loads of belongings – including containers so they can take sacred water away with them.
Offerings It is customary to make an offering the Ganga Ma; many people buy ready-made floral arrangements which are designed to float away on the waters.
Preparing Offerings Other people make their own offerings as part of their daily puja (act of worship).
On the Ghat Shrines, offerings, and religious paraphernalia are everywhere on the steps.
Life on the Ghat Any time of day, you’ll find people with their feet in the water, and/or floating offerings.
Temples in the Ganges
Pilgrims on the Steps
Religious Paraphernalia Preparations for the evening’s aarti are well underway.
Blessings
Ingredients for an Offering Making your own offering to the Mother can involve a complex mixture of foods, oils, spice and flowers.
Local Police The police presence is friendly – but watchful.
Raja Birla Tower Looking toward the clock tower from one of the bridges across the river, we can see how the crowd has gathered across the water from the ghat at Har Ki Pauri.
Priests on the Steps I find a spot amid the throng, and watch the priests chant their mantras across the water.
Young Mum People of all ages are arriving at the vantage point.
Making Offerings Milk is one of the many offerings made to Ganga Ma; cow milk is seen as purifying and sustaining.
A Girl in the Crowd I spend much of my time checking out the crowd around me; …
Smiling Girl … I love the smiles I meet.
Fire and Flowers The aarti continues across the water, with chanting and offerings.
Young Woman with her Family
Eyes in the Crowd Everyone joins in the traditional song venerating the Mother Ganges, “Om Jai Gange Mata”, throwing their hands in the air with gusto on the chorus: “Jay Ganga, Qui Jay!”
Priests with Lamps The light from the enormous tiered candelabras is not enough to cut through the descending darkness.
Filming Everywhere you go these days, you will find people recording events on their mobile phones.
Prayers in the Dark The skies darken further, and the aarti draws to a close.
The Flame Dotted around the ghats, aarti flames are kept burning.
Sharing the Flame The faithful hover their down-turned hands over the flame and then reverently touch them to their eyes and face; this imbues the devotee with blessings from Ganga Ma.
Keeper of the Flame The mood is happy and light-hearted.
Like other visitors to the waterfront, I bought a small float with a diya (candle) surrounded by flowers that I could send down the river to light the darkness.
The whole ceremony is joyous and uplifting, and I walked back to my hotel with refrains from the Ganga Aarti song running around my head.
Big Red Chairs What a view! This is an ideal spot: overlooking the beautiful (but ominously named) Maligne Lake in Jasper Alberta.
The words “Jasper, Alberta” never fail to start the songs of John Denver playing in my head:
“Up in a meadow in Jasper Alberta
Two men and four ponies on a long lonesome ride
To see the high country and learn of her people
The ways that they lived there the ways that they died.”
The Rocky Mountains truly are a majestic range, stretching 4,800 kilometers (3,000 miles) from the northernmost reaches of western Canada, south into the United States – through John Denver’s beloved Colorado and ending in New Mexico. I was a regular visitor to the UNESCO-listed CanadianRocky Mountain Parks as a child and young adult, and now that I no longer live within sight of them, I return whenever I can.
But, I’d only ever been to Jasper, about 662 km (411 mi) north of the US border, once before, many years ago when my husband and I spent a lovely couple of days at Sunwapta Falls (see: Close Encounters of the Wild Kind). On this current trip, I had driven north solo from Banff via the Icefields Parkway (see: Lakes and Mountains).
To give myself a rest from driving and to make the best of the short time I had, I booked a day trip with Maligne Adventures into the Maligne Valley. We alighted our bus for a walk into Maligne Canyon, paused for a short break at Medicine Lake, and finally arrived at Maligne Lake for a longer stop.
Maligne Lake was known as Chaba Imne (Beaver Lake) by the local Indigenous people. It became known as “Maligne” (French for malignant, evil, or wicked) after a Flemish Jesuit missionary Pieter-Jan De Smet (1801–1873) ignored the advice of locals and tried to cross river waters that were turbulent from a spring melt. He barely escaped with his horse and his life – and blamed what he called larivière Maligne for his misfortune.
The last time I was there, we took the boat cruise on the lake to the much-photographed Spirit Island (see: Places to See). So, I was somewhat disappointed to learn that this trip, it was too early in the season and the boat wasn’t yet running. Instead, we did a short but informative nature walk along the shore.
I was also disappointed to learn the restaurant and gift shop weren’t open. Luckily I had an apple in my bag and wasn’t at risk of starving.
Join me for some short walks in the Maligne Valley:
Trevor Our guide was a knowledgeable year-round local who filled us in on all the facts and plenty of anecdotes. Our first stop of the morning was for a short walk into the Maligne Canyon.
Rushing Waters The Maligne River is a losing stream: that is, a waterway that loses volume as it flows downstream. Here, at the start of the canyon, it is a long way from its source at Maligne Lake and close to its end-point in the Athabasca River.
The Maligne River The shallow, glacial waters are fast moving.
Sea Creatures in the Walkway About 600 million years ago, a shallow sea covered this area from the Arctic to the Gulf of Mexico. Over millions of years, layers of clay, lime mud, sand, and silt, sank to the bed of the ocean, trapping small sea creatures in the hardening rock. Then, about 100 million years ago, tectonic forces raised what we now call the Rockies, causing traces of fossilised marine life to be exposed.
Juniper Berries Juniper berries are widely used in traditional healing as a medicinal, and as a food flavouring (think gin!).
Into the Sun Maligne Canyon is a slot canyon, running up to over 50 metres (160 ft) deep through the limestone karst.
Maligne Canyon Douglas fir and lodgepole pine stand tall on the canyon rims which are lined with walking trails.
Mountains on the Horizon The town of Jasper and the surrounding mountains are just visible from the high points around the canyon.
A Bear on the Roadside Back in our bus, we are treated to a sighting of an American black bear (Ursus Americanus). These days, animals have absolute right of way, so the bus windows and doors are kept closed to protect her from being startled as she snuffles around for fresh grass and dandelions.
Rocky Foreshore Our next stop is at Medicine Lake. Named by the local tribes for its magically disappearing waters, the lake is part of the Maligne Valley watershed. In spring, when the snows melt, the lake fills. But, in fall and winter, levels drop to almost nothing. It took some time to establish that the lake is connected to an expansive underground cave system: the draining waters sink into these caves, resurfacing 16 km (10 mi) downstream as the Maligne River before they drop into the Maligne Canyon.
The Maligne Lake Outlet Just before our main stop at Maligne Lake proper, we hop out of the bus on the bridge where the lake meets the river.
Where the Lake Meets the River Maligne Lake stretches out 22.5 km (14.0 mi) in front of us.
What Colours! The Maligne River races off towards Medicine Lake in the other direction, …
Trout in the Shallows … and rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss) spawn in the shallows underneath us.
The Boat House On Maligne Lake, the historic boathouse – built in 1928 by pioneer Donald “Curly” Philips – was open to hire out canoes.
Overlooking Maligne Lake We had a brief orientation before regrouping for a walk along the shoreline.
Lunch Break
Canoes on the Water The tiny specks on the water give you some sense of the magnificent scale of those mountains.
Wolf Lichen – Letharia Vulpina The forest paths are dark and magical. The Douglas fir are healthy, but many of the lodgepole pine are showing the damaging signs of mountain pine beetle (Dendroctonus ponderosae) infestation.
Mountains through the Trees The walking path brings us to a partial clearing with explanatory boards outlining the modern ‘rediscovery’ of the lake in 1907 by Mary Schaeffer Warren, a wealthy Quaker from Philadelphia.
View over Maligne Lake Schaeffer (1861–1939) is recognised as an American-Canadian naturalist, illustrator, photographer, and writer. She returned to the lake in 1911, and at the request of the Geological Survey of Canada, named many of the surrounding mountains, lakes, and glaciers.
American Black Bear On our drive back to the town of Jasper, we come across another (?) bear, and watch through the glass for a long time.
American Black Bear Even though it is early in the season – when black bears typically emerge from hibernation skinny and cross – this one looks positively glossy with health!
Female Elk It is early afternoon, but the light falls fast in the mountains – bringing the animals out. This female Rocky Mountain elk (C. canadensis nelsoni) is resting in the grass just outside of town.
“… And the time is upon us today is forever
Tomorrow is just one of yesterday’s dreams.
…
Clear waters are laughing they sing to the sky
The Rockies are living they never will die.”
Buddha Heads At least, I think they are Buddhas! The concrete statues in the Wat Khaek or Sala Keoku (names abound) represent one mystic monk’s unique vision of the intersection between Buddhism and Hinduism.
It was like fever dream!
Anyone who thinks Buddhism is all sweetness, light, and Zen, hasn’t spent sufficient time in Asia. There, you will find many paintings and sculptures telling violent stories of historic battles between good and evil, and depicting truly frightening scenes from Buddhist Hell (eg: Two Artists; Contrasting Visions).
One of the most bizarre depictions of Buddhist and Hindu teachings that I have experienced would have to be the extensive sculpture garden of Sala Kaew Ku (Sala Keo Kou) outside the northeastern Thai city of Nong Khai. The garden – sometimes called a temple (วัด – wat) – was the vision and work of a venerable local monk, Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat (or Luang Pu Boun Leua Sourirat – spellings vary!), and his followers. According to Lonely Planet, Luang Pu told the story of falling into a hole as a child and meeting an ascetic who introduced him to the mysteries of the underworld. This set him on course to become a Brahmanic-yogi-priest-shaman, blending Hindu and Buddhist philosophy into his teachings.
Luang Pu developed a faithful following on both sides of the Mekong, and his first sculpture park was on the Lao side where he lived until the Communists took control in 1975. The 208 statues on the Thai side of the river – some reaching 25m (82 ft) – were started in 1978 and took 20 years to finish; they are meant to depict his dreams and represent the fantasticaljourney into the mind of a shaman. Luang Pu died in 1996, and his mummified body is under glass and surrounded by flashing lights in the sala (pavilion) on site.
I was there a very long time ago, and the photos from a long-forgotten camera have been buried on external disks. But, I have thought of them from time to time.
Most recently, they have come back to mind because of insects and yoga.
I recently spent some time at a yoga retreat in Australia’s Royal National Park; it was lovely, but I did come away with an inflamed insect bite of some sort on my abdomen. It made me think of my long-ago trip to Nong Khai for a yoga retreat, where I managed to pick up dengue fever (see: A Day on the Mekong). I don’t think I was yet symptomatic when I visited the sculpture park, but given the nature of the bizarre cement statues that surrounded me, I can’t be sure!
Join me for a weird walk:
In a Tuk Tuk Many of my explorations start with tuk-tuk rides.
Buddha at the Entry A giant brick Buddha with scissor-hands like Edward gives me a glimpse of what I’m in for!
Buddha and Text Explanatory text abounds – but while I could read enough Thai to get around, it was never good enough for lengthy tracts of Sanskrit mysticism.
Sunglasses for Sale Typical Thailand! You never know what bargains you might find!
Dogs and an Elephant หมาเห่าข้าม ลภาษาเบราณ – “The dog barked across the ancient language.” I have no idea what that means, but apparently the elephant is calmly ignoring the gossiping dogs.
Tridents Some of the sculptures are huge, with intricate details. These look to me like depictions of Shiva and his consort Parvati – but I can’t be sure.
Deity or Demon? Some of the facial designs are reminiscent of the temple guardians common throughout Southeast Asia.
“The Time of Death has Arrived”
Ornate Delicate faces sit high above decorated bodies …
Animal Face … while ferocious creatures with weapons take captives.
Arms Against the Sky
Arms and Weapons Everywhere
Seated Bodhisattvas Many Buddhas or Bodhisattvas are seated in contemplation in front of the pillars decorating the main pavilion.
Bodhisattvas in the Courtyard
Serenity
Bhairava Mudra
Overgrown Parts of the park were a bit run down and wild.
Creature in the Park In somes ways the overgrown nature adds to the charm.
More Arms – More Faces
Garuda and Bodhisattva Some of the images nestle into the grass, …
Standing Buddha … while others stand tall against the sky.
At the Feet of the Buddha
A Buddha Head
Another Buddha Head
Shelters on the Pond Local families are out picnicking – sheltering from the oppressive heat in the pavillions on the water.
Buddha on a Coiled Naga One of the tallest sculptures (25m – 82 ft) is a Buddha seated on a spectacular seven-headed naga (serpent deity).
Small Buddha in a Naga The naga is revered as a guardian of Buddha, and appears in several forms around the park.
Battle Stories
All Seeing Brahma is generally represented with four faces – but a number of Hindu and Buddhist Gods can also be depicted that way.
Enter the Mouth Tunnel through the giant’s mouth to the Wheel of Life.
Seated and Reclining Buddhas in all sizes and position are everywhere you look. Long stories are written in Thai and Isaan (Northeastern Thai dialect).
Ornate Back Another naga winds up another Buddha in intricate detailing.
Budai Frequently called the “Laughing Buddha”, Ho-Tai was actually a 10th century Chinese monk and Buddhist master known for his jolly nature.
Sala Keo Kou A reclining Buddha overlooks the entry to the large, three-story pavilion that houses – amongst other artifacts – the mummified body of Luang Pu Boun Leua Sourirat, under a glass dome ringed by flashing lights. Fever dream indeed!
Tuk-Tuk Driver Back outside the park, my tuk-tuk driver is happily waiting to drive me back to town.
The Monasteries of Meteora It’s an extraordinary landscape – and a mind-blowing architectural achievement! Eastern Orthodox monasteries built in the 13th and 14th centuries perch hign on the rocky outcrops rising from the northwestern edge of the Plain of Thessaly, near the Pindus Mountains of Greece. (iPhone12Pro)
There are a few places I would return to without hesitation.
Meteora in Thessaly, Central Greece, is one of those places.
The landscape is remarkable: improbable pillars of sandstone and conglomerate rock rise out of a flat plain near the Pindos Mountains. The history is long and colourful and the architecture is astounding. Even better: walking trails lead between the ancient monasteries perched on their individual aeries.
The many caves in the region were inhabited continuously between 50,000 and 5,000 years ago. Much later – in the ninth century CE – ascetic hermit monks moved to the ancient pinnacles, taking advantage of the general inaccessibility for solitude, and utilising the hollows, fissures, and caves for shelter. Later, more than 20 formal monasteries were somehow built atop these inaccessible rock monoliths from the fourteenth century; the monks were seeking sanctuary from the increasing number of Turkish attacks in the region.
In their day, the monasteries were only accessible by rope ladders or large nets on pulleys. While this ensured the protection of the monastics, it was a precarious journey, as it is said that ropes were only replaced “when the Lord let[s] them break.” Today there are staircases and pathways cut into the rock formations leading to the six of the original twenty-four monasteries that remain occupied: two by women; four by men.
These are still conservative monastic communities: we were warned to cover our knees and arms: wrap skirts were available for anyone deemed inappropriately dressed. Photography inside was limited. But it was fascinating exploring them: admiring the art, wondering at the austere and pious life of the few remaining inhabitants, and marveling at the ingenuity that led to these buildings being there in the first place; and the walk through this incredible landscape was just wonderful!
Meteora was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1988 for its outstanding architecture, its religious and artistic significance, and its general beauty. Priceless examples of Byzantine religious art decorate many of the chapels.
Meteora is a four-five hour drive from Athens, where we had spent the day before sightseeing (see: On the Acropolis). It is well worth the journey.
Come along!
Meteora from my Room Sometimes it pays to get up early! How spectacular is that sunrise over my balcony? (iPhone12Pro)
Into the Psaropetra Lookout Our first stop after breakfast is at a lookout …
View over Holy Monastery of Roussanоu (Rousanos) Saint Barbara … where we have a wonderful view over the plateau, the rock formations, and the magical monasteries on them.
Greek Cyclamen – Cyclamen Graecum We walk off via a walking path with delicate flowers at our feet …
View from the Trail … and glimpses of the landscape through the trees.
Monastery Garden Established in the 14th century, but mostly built in the 16th century, the Monastery of St. Barbara or Roussanou (spellings and names abound!) is one of the six abbeys still operational. It became a convent in 1988 and today is home to about 10 nuns.
View of Monastery of St. Varlaam Roussanou is the lowest of the monasteries (484 metres / 1588 feet above sea level), but the distance between the peaks affords us a great view of the higher Monastery of St. Varlaam (595 m / 1952 ft above sea level) across the gap.
Meteora Mountains from the Monastery Of Agios Stefanos Believed to have been built in the 15th century, this is the other nunnery. (iPhone12Pro)
Religious Iconography This is the only room inside the Monastery Of Agios Stefanos where photography is allowed. (iPhone12Pro)
View of Dupiani from the St Steven Monastery
Ancient Wall – Ancient Door – Ancient Lock I love the rough textures inside these old buildings.
View from the Path Back on the walking trails there are views all around. The Monastеry оf St. Barbаra Roussanоu (Agiа Varvarа Rοussanou) looks completely different from this angle!
Path to Varlaam Monastery Sections of the walkways from the main road to the monasteries are cobbled or paved – but they are still steep, with frequent stairs.
Holy Monastery Great Meteoron of the Transfiguration of the Saviour Fortunately, there is plenty to look at as we wend our way through the trees. The monastery across the plateau from us was founded in the 14th century by Saint Athanasios the Meteorite. It is the largest and the oldest of the remaining six – and closed to the public on Tuesdays (when I was there).
Looking up to Varlaam Monastery On our side of the the plateau we can see the wires that are part of the cable car system the monks use to transport supplies – a slight improvement over the old ropes and pulleys.
Saints in an Alcove
Wildflowers and the Path Plants cling to the inhospitable rocks, while tourists and pilgrims continue to come and go on the walkway far below.
Courtyard – Varlaam Monastery Finally we arrive at the spacious and simple courtyard of Varlaam Monastery (595 m – 1952 ft above sea level; 373 m – 1224 ft above the valley floor), where the views over the surrounding tableland are stunning.
Entering Varlaam Monastery The second largest monastery in this area, Varlaam Monastery was built by the Apsarades brothers Theophanes and Nektarios in the 1500s – but feels surprisingly modern.
Incense Burners and Icons Photography is limited inside the monastery: the beautiful Byzantine chapel paintings are off limits. But to me, these incense burners (and clerics robed in black) are the epitome of the Eastern Orthodox faith.
Roof Tiles and Trim
Water Vat Think about it: how do you get enough drinking water when your monastery is on the top of a mountain? This 12-ton capacity oak barrel, built in the 16th-century, was used for rainwater storage. Today it contains all manner of currency – thrown in by visitors, as if into a wishing well!
Painting of Abbots Past The museums inside Varlaam include paintings and wonderful black and white photographs of the early days … (iPhone12Pro)
In the Museum … as well as samples of richly embroidered old ecclesiastical robes. (iPhone12Pro)
Bits, Bells, and Bobs In the monastery shop, Orthodox iconography and religious paraphernalia is for sale.
Various-Coloured Bellflower – Campanula Versicolor After our tour through Varlaam, we head back into the woods.
The Monastеry оf St. Barbаra Roussanоu – Agiа Varvarа Rοussanou Our walk out of the monasteries and into town takes us back under the Rοussanou …
Cyprus Turpentine – Pistacia Terebinthus … and through the woods and mountains.
Dupiani As we drop down to the flats, a massive rock stands out. This rock – Dupiani – was home to the first monastery founded here, and is still home to hermits in the crevices.
Meteora from Kastraki It is lunch time when we reach the village of Kastraki(small castle) – those magnificent rocks stand against the sky in the background.
The whole place was just magic!
And the walk around the monasteries was just enough to be enjoyable, but no so hard as to be unmanageable.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
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