Rocking the Blues in the Fresh Air This is what music festivals are all about: great music in a friendly venue. Ray Beadle is a favourite amongst Australian music fans – myself included (see: Singing the Blues).
Live music is a joy!
I was thrilled to get back to Thredbo, a little alpine village in Australia’s Kosciuszko National Park, for the annual Blues Festival this year. Thredbo is one of Australia’s favourite a winter ski resorts. But, I love the Snowy Mountains just as much in summer time – when the air is scented with mountain mint, and the wildflowers are in bloom. The music festival is an added incentive to visit.
This year marked the 29th iteration of the festival, which takes over the little village, filling the crisp, fresh air with happy sounds. Starting on Friday afternoon with complimentary wine and performances indoors and out, the blues are scattered over 60 sets across three days – ending late Sunday night.
I didn’t go the distance: because I stay off the mountain, in the nearby town of Jindabyne, I don’t hang around as late as most of the other festival goers. But, I take in a sampling of the 20 acts, making sure to pre-book my favourite venues and fit in a mountain walk.
The day we walked down from Eagles Nest, the venue at the top of the Kosciuszko Express Chairlift, the weather was perfect for walking – but less good for pictures. I usually include a few from the natural surrounds (see: Thredbo Blues), but this year I have none.
Photographically, the garish lights and tightly packed venues are always a challenge – and this year I was still trying to come to grips with a whole new camera system. I switched to Sony mirrorless cameras late last year, and haven’t done sufficient homework since then, so I’m still struggling.
But, I came away with a lot of pictures – mostly portraits – a few of which I’ll share here. Enjoy!
LilG Kicking off the music in the Village Square, child prodigy 12-year-old LilG covers a broad range of blues classics.
Repeat Offenders Indoors in the Schuss Bar, the new line-up of old musical favourites pound out some seriously swampy southern soul: Gary Lothian on guitar, Rosscoe Clark on drums, Dave Green on bass, …
Sally King … and Sally King on vocals.
GD & the King Brothers The Cascades Restaurant is one of my favourite venues: the space lends itself to decent acoustics and the food is fabulous. This is another line-up of performers who have been on the Australian music scene for as long as I can remember!
King Brothers Silhouette The late afternoon sun angles through the windows as our dinner-set starts. (iPhone12Pro)
Ron King on Harmonica
Jeff King on Guitar
Graeme Druce – Guitar and Vocal I last saw GD here at Thredbo as part of the Doggn It duo in 2015 (see: Cool Blues, Hot Jazz).
In Good Hands – Jeff King on Slide
Guest Vocals – Jill Tweedie
Necko Back upstairs, the young Sydney musicians who make up the band Necko are playing in the classic rock style of my youth.
Alek Necko
Frank Sultana Blues Band My next stop was in the Kosciuszko Room for some more rollicking blues with Frank Sultana on guitar, Adrian Herbert on drums, …
On the Harp … and Dan Sullivan on harmonica.
Dancing A number of people took advantage of the great rhythms.
Frank Sultana
Dom Turner Dom is another classic: I first saw him with the Backsliders at the Basement in Sydney and the Byron Bay Bluesfest … a long time ago!
Moon Shot Returning to the car after a full afternoon and evening, I decided to test the camera on the moon; not too bad for hand-held!
James Southwell Back at the Alpine Bar on the Saturday morning, we enjoyed as much of the James Southwell set as we could before it was time to head up the mountain, …
Eagles Nest … riding the chairlift up to Australia’s highest restaurant. Eagles Nest sits at 1937 metres, a pleasant walk away from Mount Kosciuszko, the country’s highest peak (2228 m; 7310 ft). The band was setting up as we arrived.
The McNaMarr Project Against a sunny mountain afternoon, the McNaMarr Project keeps us entertained over lunch. This is a combination I always look forward to seeing: multi award-winning blues artists John McNamara and Andrea Marr are a powerhouse duo.
Andrea Marr
Collard Greens & Gravy You know you are in for some Delta and SwampBlues when a band is named after a southern dish! But then, the lead singer and harmonica player is actually named Ian Collard. I made the decision to come back the next day for their full set.
Emu In the meantime, I enjoyed some more performances and some quiet time. This bronze statue by Silvio Apponyi has been in Thredbo since 2002. We often used to see an actual father emu and his young chick along the roadside; the warning sign still stands, but I haven’t seen the birds for many years.
Ian Collard Sunday morning I was back early for more Collard Greens and Gravy; we were meant to be higher up the mountain, but strong winds had put the gondola on hold.
In the Keller Bar There is something delightfully decadent about being in a dark bar – complete with a sticky floor – when you know that outside, people are hiking and cycling in the fresh mountain air!
Sean Emmett I was as captured by the turquoise rings worn by the Collard Greens and Gravy guitarist as I was with his style.
In the Alpine Bar Music festivals invite collaborations. Kane Dennelly from the frenetic 19Twenty joins legendary Australian guitarist, songwriter, vocalist, and music producer Jeff Lang, and his multi-instrumentalist wife, Alison Ferrier, on stage.
Jeff Lang on Slide
Mark Easton The Apre Bar is a nightmare venue: tiny and awkward with dreadful lighting. It is often also – as was the case this year – the venue for some of my favourite performances. Who knew that Mongolian throat singing and metal/blues would meld so well! I went away with two CD’s. (I can’t share them because my computer doesn’t have a CD drive. Treat yourself: crank up your volume and search: https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=vZMZ7Cgu9lg&list=OLAK5uy_mL6P5_YGzqX27t-S3sHsk-cEP4noK-Af4 )
Stewart D’Arrietta For a complete change of pace, I headed to the Lounge Bar where Stewart D’Arrietta and his trio served up Tom Waits and Leonard Cohen – I smiled the whole way through.
19Twenty On the way back to the car, I poked my head into the Keller Bar which was completely packed out; as usual, 19Twenty had the crowd bouncing.
Under-Sung Hero I had a far better view of the sound-mixing board than I did of the band.
Never mind! I’d had a full and rewarding day – the culmination of a weekend with many old favourites and some new and wonderful finds.
Man on the Ghats Mornings are a busy time along the Ganges: pilgrims come from all over India to pay respects and receive blessings from Ganga Ma – the Goddess of forgiveness and purification.
India is a bundle of contradictions: chaos and calm permeate everything in equal measure. The sacred and the mundane rub shoulders. Think of the mingling scents of incense, cow dung, and refuse, and you might get a sense of it.
India is never dull!
Every time I wander Indian streets, I return to my lodgings hot, dusty, exhausted, and emotionally overwhelmed; I also return smiling, abuzz from the experience, and with camera cards full of images.
As I’ve said before, the country is street-portrait heaven. And, even when you don’t find people, the buildings and streets themselves are colourful, textured, and alive with their own personalities.
Thanks to good planning by photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours, I was staying in the middle of Haridwar, a short walk from the sacred ghats on the Ganges, the holiest of Indian rivers (see: Life, Colour, and Chaos).
Join me – and countless pilgrims – for a wander through Haridwar streets.
Shri Gita Bhawan Haridwar is a holy city and full of ashrams like this one.
Child with a Woman Resting Ashrams and temples provide lodging for travellers, but this woman was sleeping in a courtyard. You can tell from the metal kumbh (water pot) sitting here that she is a pilgrim. Who knows how far she and her toddler have travelled?
Maya Devi Temple This little Hindu temple is dedicated to the goddess Maya, mother of Gautama Buddha.
Hindu Priests Three young priests watch as I pass through the courtyard.
In the Street Every corner and cranny in the streets has something happening.
Colourful Building Colour is everywhere – Shiva’s tridents on the railing above shield the vibrant cloths hanging on the balcony.
Rickshaw at Rest and Textured Walls
Mannequins I find old and battered caucasian mannequins in wildly colourful local clothing rather disconcerting!
Man and Machine I love watching people operate these old peddle machines – especially when they are running their businesses in the street.
Man in a Woolen Hat
Old Man in Glasses Interesting characters are all around.
Street Cobbler A shoe repairman has carved out a space on the street for his shop. I can’t help but admire his hip flexibility!
Stitching a Strap
The Exchange The cobbler’s customers know where to find him.
A Police Presence Even the local police are prepared to have their pictures made!
Beads and Baubles Being so close to the holy river, venders take advantage of their location, marketing all kinds of shiny trinkets. They also sell the red sandal paste and other powders used to mark tikas or tikas on one’s forehead in preparation for worship.
Travelers These narrow streets leading to the ghats are always lined with shops and crowded with travellers.
Smiling Woman Most of the pilgrims are happy to have their pictures made. We share smiles, but very little language.
Serious Woman Even without a smile, the gaze is clear and direct.
Tattooed Hands and Tika Powder I was captured by the tribal tattoos all over this older woman’s hands and arms; she graciously let me photograph them.
Young Woman in Blue
Women on the Steps The ghats are a happy place, as groups of people gather to pay their respects to the Mother.
Men Making Bread You are never too far from freshly made food.
Couple in the Street People on the move take a break where ever they find a spot. I love how newspapers are an integral part of many Indians’ day.
Man in Pink The roller shutters on shops that aren’t open make a great backdrop!
Man in Orange So many of the pilgrims walking through town …
Man in Black … pause in the shops selling devotional paraphernalia on their way to the ghats.
Co-Workers Friends joke around with me in their shop …
Stirring the Pot … before going back to work cooking.
Man in a Corridor Streets tunnel off in all directions.
Textured Walls
It was time to make my way back to the quiet shelter of my room and take a few deep breaths before doing it all again.
Peyto Lake deserves its reputation as a highlight along the magnificent Icefields Parkway through Canada’sUNESCO-listedRocky Mountains. But the whole road is a joy.
Highway 93 runs 233 kilometers (143 miles) north-south between Jasper in the Jasper National Park and Lake Louise in Banff National Park. In theory, it takes less than three hours driving time, but you have to factor in ‘stopping time’: you are travelling through continuous scenery.
I was driving north from Lake Louise, and in my first two hours, I had covered less than 40 kilometres (25 miles) (see: Bow Lake, the Icefields Parkway)! But, I had the information map I had picked up at the Park’s Office, and I had my priorities set.
Peyto Lake was high on my list.
There is nothing quite like a glacier-fed lake to take your breath away. Of course, the walk up to the vantage point over Peyto Lake had already left me breathless! Although I only spent about 45 minutes there, and according to my AllTrails app, I only gained 104 m (341 ft) in elevation, the viewing platform sits at 2,000 meters (6,561 feet). So, I’ll blame the altitude.
Less than half an hour later, I found myself stopping again: this time just for a brief, admiring look over Waterfowl Lakes.
Naturally, I had to walk up to the Athabasca Glacier, one of the six toes ‘toes’ – and the most accessible – of the Columbia Icefield, located just inside Jasper National Park. The walk up to the glacier is lined with informative sign-boards; the easy, gravelly pathway to the shrinking ice gets longer every year as the ice pack recedes.
Join me for just a few of the sights along the Icefields Parkway.
Driving North on Highway 93N Every section of road brings new mountain vistas into view through the car windows. (iPhone12Pro)
The Path Tall Douglas fir trees (Pseudotsuga menziesii) line the cement path that leads from the Peyto Lake car park up to the platform at the first viewing point over the valley.
Viewing Platform The mountains rise high around the visitors at the first overlook.
Peyto Lake Below This valley was carved out by the Peyto Glacier which once filled it. The remaining glacier is a mere tongue of the larger Wapta Icefield, which sits high in the mountains south of here.
View over Peyto Lake The lake is named for Bill Peyto, a pioneer, mountain guide, and early Banff National Park warden.
Mountains around Peyto Lake Peyto Peak marks the north end of the Wapta Icefield; you can see the ice pack that partially covers Mount Jimmy Simpson behind it.
Pathways Up The tracks beyond the first lookout are mostly dirt: some were quite muddy and slippery after the recent snows and rains.
Terminal Moraine: Peyto Lake Glaciers push, carry, and deposit large quantities of ground rock with them. The stones get deposited at the fronts and sides of the moving ice packs. It is the tiny particles of suspended pulverised rock that give glacial lakes their extraordinary colour.
People on the Lookout The upper viewpoint is much less formal than the lower overlook. (iPhone12Pro)
Golden-Mantled Ground Squirrel – Callospermophilus Lateralis We had company on the rocks!
Peyto Lake from the Upper Viewpoint Even under a rain-filled sky, the colours really are extraordinary. I took one last shot before walking back down the hill to my car.
On the Highway The next leg of the drive is as spectacular as the others; … (iPhone12Pro)
Waterfowl Lakes … but I only drive ten minutes before I feel the need to pull over again – at a viewpoint over Waterfowl Lakes.
Mount Chephren behind Waterfowl Lake
American Black Bear – Ursus Americanus Finally! My first bear.
Saskatchewan River Crossing Not open in the winter months, this truck-stop offers virtually the only services along the parkway. From here, you can drive east out of the mountains to Red Deer, Alberta. (iPhone12Pro)
On the Parkway I am still heading north – and I haven’t yet hit the halfway mark! (iPhone12Pro)
Walk Bridge : Athabasca Glacier The Columbia Icefield, which feeds six major glaciers, is the largest icefield in the Rocky Mountains, and worthy of a trip on its own. I, however, was running out of daylight. I ignored the Glacier Discovery Centre, and went directly to the walk that leads to the receding edge of the most accessible ‘toe’, the Athabasca Glacier.
Walkers on the Path Unless you are on a guided trip, you are not allowed on the actual ice. But it is a pleasant 2 km (1.2 mi) walk out-and-back to the glacier’s edge. There are plenty of information sign boards along the way.
Athabasca Glacier It doesn’t look like it from here, but the ice pack is between 90–300 metres (300–980 ft) thick. The temperature drops, as what is called a katabatic wind blows downhill off the ice. (iPhone12Pro)
Waters off the Glacier Even though I know in my head that the ice fields are melting (and markers along the path show how far this one had receded), I’m still startled by the volume of water that races downhill to feed the Athabasca River.
Snow Shelf The rocks left behind by the advance and retreat of glaciers over time look like slag heaps of pulverised particles.
Downhill from the Athabasca Glacier
Tangle Creek Falls Back on the road, I couldn’t resist another quick photo-stop to admire another pretty waterfall.
Sunwapta River Valley There were plenty more stops on offer, but the light would fail soon, and I was getting hungry! Fortunately, I had visited this section of the road before. (see: Close Encounters of the Wild Kind). (iPhone12Pro)
Jasper Carpark In the last light of the day, a rainbow shone over the railway line running through Jasper. (iPhone12Pro)
The rains that had followed me in the morning returned as I found some dinner – but I was very lucky that the downpours had held off for most of my drive.
The road truly deserves it reputation as one of the world’s top drives – and given all the spots I hadn’t stopped, I was already determined to drive it again!
The Erechtheion and Athens The beautifully elegant Caryatids, the six maidens of Karyai, stand watch over the Acropolis and the sprawling city beneath it. Built between 421 and 406 BCE, the Erechtheion was a temple primarily dedicated to the goddess Athena.
It was hardly off the beaten path, but is one of those ‘once in a lifetime’ experiences that was on my list: the Acropolis, that rocky outcrop rising 150 m (490 ft) above sea level overlooking Athens, and the Parthenon, the ancient religious temple built for the Greek goddess Athena at the top.
Mythical home of the Greek gods – familiar to me since childhood – the Acropolis is believed to have had earthly inhabitants since the Early Neolithic period (6th millennium BC). The Parthenon that stands in ruins on the flat mountain top was originally built between 447 and 432 BCE.
In its day, the Parthenon‘was the largest and most lavish temple the Greek mainland had ever seen.’ Much of what we see today, however, has been reconstructed and/or renovated over time. During their rule of the city, the Ottomans used the site as a munitions dump. In the course of their assault on the city in 1687, the Venetians bombarded the site with cannonballs: the ammunition stores exploded, resulting in hundreds of deaths and extensive structural damage. In the 1820s, the Acropolis was the middle of the combat zone between the Greek and Turks, and the Turkish Army removed the lead-coated iron clamps which held the marble blocks together to make bullets. By the 1800s, the site was in ruins, and over the following years was pilfered by looters and archaeological collectors.
Still, there is enough left to allow us to appreciate the magnificent design and craftsmanship that went into the ancient structures left on the hill.
I arrived in Athens the night before, after a busy week in Crete (see: Weekly Wanders – Crete). I had booked myself onto a small-group tour around the Greek mainland for this portion of the trip, and was thrilled to discover that the rooftop-restaurant in my rather plush hotel afforded me a wonderful view over the sprawling city and the Acropolis at its heart.
Join me for a walk up to the home of the Gods:
Sunrise and Moon over the Parthenon My rooftop breakfast balcony in Athens allowed me a stunning morning view. As if that wasn’t Greek enough, while I was enjoying my orange juice, the man at the table two inches from mine lit up a foul-smelling cigarette, as if to remind me where I was!
Street Musician From the car and bus parking, it is a fair walk up the hill – but we were kept entertained.
Temple of Athena Nike Continuing our slow walk up the hill, we can see the temple dedicated to Athena and Nike, the goddess of victory. Built around 420 BCE, is the earliest fully Ionic temple on the hill.
Odeon of Herodes Atticus Built by the later Romans, the Herodion (or Herodeion) is a stone theatre dating to 161 CE.
Philopappos Monument The remains of an ancient Greek mausoleum and monument, built between 114 and 116 CE, stands on a neighbouring hill.
Steps into the Parthenon The walk continues upward …
Towards the Sun … and the morning sun greets us as we prepare to enter the Parthenon.
Columns Rising
Over Athens Once we are on the hill top, the city – with its Christian Orthodox cathedrals in every quadrant – stretches out below us.
The Parthenon The Parthenon is huge – but in considerable disrepair. Restoration efforts in earlier years have often led to further structural damage. The building style is Doric, which I vaguely remember from art classes as being demonstrated in the columns with their simple round capitals, and the absence of bases.
Parthenon Roof Frieze The remaining sculptural decorations are beautiful examples of early Greek sculpture.
The Parthenon from the Hill
Another Church Below
Athens and Lycabettus Hill To our north-east, Mount Lycabettus (Lycabettos, Lykabettos or Lykavittos), the highest hill in Athens, rises 227 meters (909 feet) above sea level.
Fallen Capital The whole site is a mix of periods. Corinthian capitals, with their decorations of stylized acanthus leaves, lie tumbed on the ground.
The Erechtheion The Ionic-style Erechtheion, made to house the statue of Athena Polias, was my favourite.
Tourist Shot at the Erechtheion Unlike most classical Greek architecture, it is asymmetrical in shape.
Ionic Capital on a Column – the Erechtheion
The Erechtheion It’s an elegant little building.
The Porch of the Maidens Best of all, the Erechtheion is home to the wonderful Caryatids. These are replicas: five originals are in the Acropolis Museum and one remains in the British Museum.
Columns of the Parthenon
The Theatre of Dionysus An ancient Greek theatre is nestled into the south slope of the Acropolis.
The Agora Below us, the Temple of Hephaestus stands on top of a smaller hill that houses the ancient Agora of Athens.
It was still mid-morning, but already the autumn day was heating up, and the hill was getting busy.
It was time to make our way back down from the Acropolis and explore some of the other marvels the city of Athens has to offer.
Worker in the Paper Frames Making paper by hand is labour intensive – but the Gurung people here in the Annapurna mountains of Nepal are still happy to take time out to smile at tired trekkers.
It was a bittersweet feeling: this was our last day of trekking in the magnificent Annapurna mountains of Nepal.
Every step of this “Easy” Poon Hill Trek had reminded me that I’m not as young as I once was. But, the accommodation was vastly improved compared with my first visit to this region many years before, when I had stayed in drafty rooms without the benefits of heat, electricity, or running water.
And, this last day was mostly downhill!
I love those mountains – and their welcoming (and hardy!) people. When photographer Gavin Gough suggested a post-Kathmandu Valley photographic-workshop walk to Poon Hill, I jumped at the chance. Much of that hike was revisiting the paths I had walked on the when doing an Annapurna Sanctuary trek some 16 years prior (see: Heaven and Hard Work).
I always find that I get into my rhythm just as a walk is nearing the end!
We set out that spring morning from Ghandruk, with mists all around blocking out any hopes of of a last sighting of the magnificent Annapurnas. Stopping to check out local cottage crafts, and to chat with locals, we worked our way down the mountainside at a comfortable pace towards our end point in Nayapul.
Ponies on the Cobbles As we leave the mountain town of Ghandruk, we share the stone path with trains of dainty pack animals. Mists drift out all around us.
“Annapurna Lokta Paper and Handicraft Factory” Frames of newly-made paper are stretched out below us on the mountainside.
Paper on a Frame We invite ourselves into the workshop, …
Stretching Paper … and learn how hand made paper is made.
Bark Drying Daphne bholua, the Nepalese paper plant, is a high-altitude flowering shrub with strong, durable fibres in the bark. This bark produces beautiful paper – and can also be twisted into rope.
Straining Paper When the shredded bark is well soaked, it is strained on large frames.
Woman in Red
Women at Work A surprising number of people are busy at work – and they all seem cheerful and happy to be there.
Ponies on a Hill Decorated pack-ponies stand patiently on the hillside, waiting for their next job.
School Pupils As I pass a group of youngsters heading uphill to school, I marvel at how tidy they look in these rustic surrounds.
Terraced Hills As we descend in altitude, the fields look more productive.
“Real Hand Made Paper Shop” A little further down the hill, tables are laden with paper products for sale.
Paper Products I picked up several fabric-covered notebooks for stocking-stuffers.
Lone Tree on the Terraces The mists hang on the surrounding hills – but at least the rain holds off, and we have a beautiful, sunny day for our last walk.
Buffalo (Bubalus Bubalis) on the Terraces Half of Nepal’s milk and over one-third of the country’s meat comes from Asian water buffalos.
Angry Bird T-Shirt Popular culture knows no boundaries!
The Lads Such gorgeous chubby cheeks!
Women in the Hills Even passersby take time out to smile for me and the camera.
Foggy Terraces Mist still clings to the terraces running down to the winding Modi Khola in the river valley below.
Peace! A young girl welcomes us to a balcony restaurant.
Girl in Pink
Woman on the Balcony Mum is nearby – managing the kitchen.
“Nice Wind Place” A rough, drafty shack on the hill reminds me a bit of how trekker huts were in the last time I was here!
Chickens on the Steps As we drop down the hillside, our surrounds become more ‘rural’ …
Girl in a Grocery Store … and there are more conveniences and people around.
Grocer’s Daughter
Gray Haired Woman Traditional jewellery often includes ornate golden nose rings and earrings.
Collecting Greens All around us, people are hard at work in the fields, or collecting animal food from the side of the track.
Smiling Woman with a Bindi Red represents love, honour, and prosperity, and is a therefore popular choice for clothing. It is also the colour of the bindis worn by many married woman.
Man in a Dhaka Topi These popular woven hats are part of the Nepalese national dress.
And the Rivers Keep Running! The Modi Khola, a snow-fed river starting high in the Annapurna Mountains, is racing flat alongside us: a sign that we have reached the valley floor.
Our Guys We make a last stop in Birethanti …
The Last River Crossing … before crossing the Modi Khola towards Nayapul, where cars will meet us.
We arrived back at nearby Pokhara with a feeling of fatigue – and a huge sense of accomplishment.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
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