Truck on a steep, wet, red-dirt Mountain Road, Mae Hong Son Thailand

Wet Mountain Road
The paved roads slip away quickly in the Thai hills of Mae Hong Son Province.

I love driving into Thailand’s green, jungle-draped mountains, where the clouds hang so low they look like snow patches, and the sun traces the outlines of dark post-afternoon rainclouds and glints off the golden Buddhas and bejewelled temple rooftops.

If you turn off the highways, however, it is not long before the ornate temples – and even the paved roads themselves – disappear.

This is the territory of the Thai “Hill Tribes”; ethnic minority groups who are often Animist, sometimes Christian or Buddhist, but seldom rich enough to guild their places of worship. Some of the remote villages in these hills host trekking ethnographic-tourism, but mostly the people farm hill-rice for themselves on the steep mountain slopes, and eke a meagre living out of the market produce they grow. When I first visited the region, it was all cabbages; today they have branched out into corn, tomatoes, and soybean. But, what they get payed for the product of their labour, compared to what the consumers in the valleys pays for the produce, is a pittance.

It’s a hard life in this land beyond the reach of electrical poles and telephone service! But, the people are invariably welcoming – as I have discovered on all my previous trips into the region. 

This last May (see: The Faces of THEP), I was travelling with a small group of educators who manage the Thailand Hilltribe Education Projects (THEP), which I’ve written about several times before (see:  Ursula’s Weekly Wanders: THEP). It was day three of our travel with the indefatigable Susan Race, the driving force behind THEP, and we set off early in the hopes of getting up the steep roads before rains washed them away. Unlike the locals who navigate the treacherously slippery and rutted muddy tracks on motorcycles, we had the luxury of travelling in four-wheel drive utility trucks. Even so, there were some hair-raising moments!

We were off to visit a school high in the hills at Ban Huay Mae Gok – a village so small that it is invisible to my Google Maps. As remote as this village school might be, the children who attend it live in even more inaccessible locations: hence the new dormitory project that THEP was supervising. For without somewhere on-site to live, hill tribe children from these far-flung mountain hamlets cannot attend school at all.

Join me on a school visit beyond the guide-books.

Flowers on a Rudraksha Tree (Elaeocarpus grandiflorus), Mae Hong Son Thailand

Rudraksha (ไคร้ย้อย) Tree
The dainty flowers on a rudraksha (Elaeocarpus grandiflorus) tree are known as fairy petticoats. 
An hour or so out of Mae Sariang, we pulled in at a rest stop for a break, before turning our trucks off the main road for a second hour of driving. Everything is a long way away in “The Hills”.

 flowers on a Champak (Magnolia champaca) tree, Mae Hong Son Thailand

Champak (จำปา) Tree
The morning rain had washed everything clean, and the flowers on the champak (Magnolia champaca) tree smelled gorgeous.

Muddy road into Mae Sariang Hills, Thailand

Wet Muddy Road
The quality of the roads drops off pretty quickly as you leave the highway, and drive onto the dirt and into the rainclouds. (iPhone6)

Children in a dark Ban Huay Mae Gok School classroom, Mae Sariang, Thailand

No Electricity
When we reached Ban Huay Mae Gok School, we found the children gathered in dark classrooms. I looked at the solar panels around the grounds, and asked the principal why they had no power. He shook his head and shrugged: the school is beyond the reach of centralised electricity, and their storage batteries have expired and died. While their solar panels work in good weather, rainy season lasts a long time… When we visited, the school had been without power for about five weeks.

Thai children on the floor of a Classroom, Mae Sariang, Thailand

Karen Kids in the Classroom
The young Karen Hill Tribe children, many in their traditional shirts woven from purple cotton, …

Thai girls on the floor of a Classroom, Mae Sariang, Thailand

Girls Learning their Letters
… practice their Thai writing on the floor of a dim classroom.

Thai girls on the floor of a Classroom, Mae Sariang, Thailand

Girls Writing
Thai is their second language: these children speak Karen with each other and at home with their families.

View of TV Receiver on a building, outside a shuttered WIndow, Mae Sariang, Thailand

TV Receiver out the Window
We walked up a slippery hill to the newly-built and as-yet empty dormitory. Looking out the window, I could only reflect on the irony of having phones, television, and internet; all pretty useless when you have no power supply!

Two Thai men outside a shuttered window, , outside a shuttered WIndow, Mae Sariang, Thailand

Workers out the Window
A couple of local men watch …

Photographing a Thai squat toilet, Mae Sariang, Thailand

Checking the Toilet Block
… as Susan documents the progress of the building. She keeps meticulous records for reports to project funders.

Thai labourer in a black head wrap, Mae Sariang, Thailand

Project Worker
THEP won’t pay for labour on building projects: schools need to find the money themselves, or persuade people to donate their time and skills.

Woman with plans in a dark wooden building, Mae Sariang, Thailand

Measuring for Bunkbeds
Susan and Khru Apichart – another driver behind THEP – measure the new dormitory for bunkbeds.

Karen children in a school canteen, Mae Sariang, Thailand

Giving Thanks before Lunch
Back at the canteen, the children are waiting for permission to start their lunch.

Karen girl Focussed on Lunch, Mae Sariang Thailand

Focussed on Lunch
It is simple fare: white rice, fresh tomato, a cabbage and pork mixture, and a biscuit for desert.

Karen schoolgirl eating Lunch, Mae Sariang Thailand

An Imp and her Lunch
Some of the children are enjoying our company as much as their meals, …

Karen schoolgirl eating Lunch, Mae Sariang Thailand

Smiling Girls at Lunch
… while others are busy socialising with friends.

Karen schoolgirl eating Lunch, Mae Sariang Thailand

Lunch

Karen schoolgirl eating Lunch, Mae Sariang Thailand

Little Girl – Big Plate
The tiniest girl in the room was also the slowest eater.

Karen schoolgirl clearing her Lunch plate, Mae Sariang Thailand

Time’s Up!
We were not sure if she was full, or had just run out of time, when she returned her dish to the washing-up area.

Karen Girls on the Steps of a school, Mae Sariang Thailand

Karen Girls on the Steps
A couple of girls wave us off, as we head back to the school’s offices for our own lunch.

Women laughing over a northern Thai meal, Mae Sariang Thailand

Food and Laughter
A trip into the hills with Susan Race to check on THEP projects is never short on good, fresh, local food – or on laughter.

Karen Grandmother and Child in a shelter, Mae Sariang, Thailand

At the Shelter
Just outside in a sheltered rest area, a Karen grandmother and girl, both in traditional, age-appropriate dress, wait for their transport home. The principal of this school is enthusiastic about promoting English – even though that is the third language for Karen-speaking communities who have to learn Thai to get by. All around the school grounds, there are signs in English, with the corresponding pronunciation and meaning in Thai.

Portrait: Karen Grandmother and Child in a shelter, Mae Sariang, Thailand

Karen Grandmother and Girl
Grandma, who is wearing a beautiful mountain-coral necklace and a traditional head-wrap, has a mouth full of chewing tobacco. Betel nut has fallen out of favour.

Karen children lined up in a school courtyard, Mae Sariang, Thailand

Karen Kids in the Rain
It may be Saturday, and they may have had their lunch, but the children have not yet been released to go home; …

Karen children squatting in a school courtyard, Mae Sariang, Thailand

Toothbrushes
Khru Usa and the school principal have some donated toothbrushes to distribute.

Children in Karen tunics outside their Classrooms, Mae Sariang, Thailand

Outside the Classrooms

Susan Race and Thai education officials, Mae Sariang Thailand

The Work Party
Meanwhile, representatives from the the school, the village, THEP, and the Department of Education finish up their discussions outside the office.

Susan Race and a Village Headman, Mae Sariang Thailand

Susan and the Village Headman
Working with community leaders helps ensure more successful projects.

Utility truck on a rutted red-dirt mountain road, Mae Sariang Thailand

Rutted Mountain Roads
What drives up must go down again: soon it is time to get back into the trucks and navigate the mountain roads down the hill, … 

… and onto the next project.

Text: Happy Travels

Until then,

Happy Travels!

10June2017

  • susan race - August 4, 2017 - 3:42 am

    You write SO WELL!!! Thanks again Ursula.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - August 5, 2017 - 4:09 am

      Awe, thanks Susan. It is such a pleasure travelling with you. 😀ReplyCancel

  • sidran - August 5, 2017 - 12:41 pm

    Humbling and inspiring. The image of the children in silent prayers is haunting. I am happy to see that these little dolls are healthy and happy.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - August 7, 2017 - 7:10 am

      Hi Sidran,
      Happy and healthy, they are indeed! No shortage of beautiful, fresh food. They have to work extra hard to get their educations, though.ReplyCancel

  • Ivy - September 4, 2017 - 12:21 am

    Ursula,
    You are truly a master story teller both in words and images. Now, I too will look forward to your wanders
    xoxo
    IvyReplyCancel

    • Ursula - September 4, 2017 - 7:20 am

      Thanks so much for your kind words, Ivy! It will be a pleasure to have your company.ReplyCancel

  • […] On the third day, we drove high into the mountains to look at a new school dormitory (see: Roads Less Travelled), and then to an old canteen and dormitories in need of repairs and sprucing up. On the last day, […]ReplyCancel

Chris Eaton and Chris Brooker Round Mountain Girls, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Chris Eaton and Chris Brooker
Billed as “5 Musicians + lots of different instruments = Great music!”, the Round Mountain Girls are local crowd-pleasers.

Support your local musicians!

In Australia, this is easy, for in the world of music – as with just about every other creative endeavour – the country is extraordinarily well represented, per capita, with talented individuals who work hard at their craft.

Although I love getting to see the international “big names” whenever I attend the annual Easter-weekend Byron Bay Bluesfest, I also enjoy indulging in the wealth of local talent – whether that be from old favourites, or from performers who are new to me. One of the many beauties of Bluesfest is the consistent quality of the music – wherever it hails from and whatever the style.

And so it was at this year’s festival last April. We studied our schedules with highlighters in hand, marking the people we had to see and groups we wanted to catch, and then filled in any gaps with whomever else was playing. 

Not once were we disappointed!

Whether they were performers I’d listened to many times before, or new (to me) discoveries, the local musicians that I managed to hear were in fine form. This year, it just happened that every local performance I attended was centred on guitars and strings.

For me, it is almost as much fun trying to capture some kind of “essence” of the performers in digital portraits taken from the crowded audience spaces in dark tents – usually with the ISO turned up high on my “noisy” old Canon 5D Mark II to cope with the lack of light, and my second-hand 2.8 70-200mm lens (without image stabilisation) to deal with the distance.

Enjoy some of our local talent!

Jeff Lang, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Jeff Lang
Australian singer/songwriter Jeff Lang is known for his guitar skills. He has played at Bluesfest before, and we’ve seen him there – and at the Thredbo Blues Festival (see: Summer Blues and The Blues in Colour) – and enjoyed him every time.

Jeff Lang, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Jeff Lang
Jeff started out playing clarinet at a young age, and now plays slide and standard guitars, banjo, mandolin, Chumbush and drums.

Greg Sheehan on drums, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

The Drummer
On this occasion, however, Jeff left the drumming to one of Australia’s finest percussionists: Greg Sheehan

Ray Beadle, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Ray Beadle
Award-winning Australian blues guitarist Ray Beadle was in fine, toe-tapping form.

Ray Beadle, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Ray Beadle
He’s played at Bluesfest before – he’s also spent time playing at B.B King’s Club in Memphis and Buddy Guy’s Club in Chicago. Impressive!

Emily Wurramara, Boomerang Indigenous Arts, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Emily Wurramara
Emily Wurramara, the infectiously cheerful singer, songwriter and musician from Groote Eylandt in the Gulf of Carpentaria, was one of the local performers at the Boomerang Indigenous Arts Festival, which ran concurrently for three of the five festival days. Her sweet voice and sunny disposition was an absolute treat (see: Blues Women Rock).

Women Dancing in gypsy costumes, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Women Dancing
There is always plenty of entertainment and activity outside the tents.

Mother and Daughter Dancing in gypsy costumes, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Mother and Daughter Dancing
The gypsy dancers start young!

Young Girl Dancing in gypsy costumes, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Young Girl Dancing
With her feet moving and her skirts swirling, …

Portrait: Young girl made up for her dance performance, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Young Dancer
… it is clear that this youngster was born to perform!

Round Mountain Girls, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Round Mountain Girls
“…they play like they own the place, never has a band seemed so comfortable on a stage”
– Sam Fell – Rhythms Magazine
We first saw the Round Mountain Girls at their first Bluesfest gig (see: Singing the Blues) on the advice of friends, and loved them. We make sure to catch them at every opportunity.

Chris Eaton leaping with his guitar, Round Mountain Girls, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Chris Eaton – Round Mountain Girls
The band is known for their wonderfully frenetic live performances, but their recorded music is also a joy.

Chris Brooker on mandolin Round Mountain Girls, , Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Chris Brooker – Round Mountain Girls

Chris Willoughby on bass, Round Mountain Girls, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Chris Willoughby – Round Mountain Girls

Rabbit Robinson on fiddle, Round Mountain Girls, , Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Rabbit Robinson – Round Mountain Girls
Leaping around the stage like a leprechaun, award-winning fiddle player Rabbit Robinson is a joy to watch and listen to.

Lucas Proudfoot on Didgeridoo, Round Mountain Girls, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Lucas Proudfoot – Didgeridoo
Lucas Proudfoot, a member of the Tweed Coast Aboriginal and Islander Community, brought his extraordinary talents on the didgeridoo to part of the Round Mountain Girls’ set.

Lloyd Spiegel on stage, Round Mountain Girls, , Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Lloyd Spiegel
The sounds of a classic bluesy guitar enticed me into the Jambalaya tent on the second-last day of the festival when I was on my way to hear someone else. I stayed to listen to a couple of original songs and some story-telling before vowing to check Lloyd Spiegel out further the next day.

Lloyd Spiegel on stage, Round Mountain Girls, , Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Lloyd Spiegel
I absolutely loved him! And not just his guitar style: his stories about working in Japan demonstrating guitars, about his personal life, and about life as a musician, were all self-depreciating and very funny. “The only thing worse [for a guitarist] than playing after Ray Beadle,” Lloyd told us, “is playing before Jeff Lang!” There he was on the program, wedged between two of Australia’s great guitarists. “Jeff’s never heard another guitarist play at their best,” he continued. “As soon as they find out that Jeff is in the building, they sh#t themselves!”

Jeff Lang Back Stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Jeff Lang Back Stage
And sure enough, there was Jeff, checking his equipment before his set. As far as I could tell, however, Lloyd didn’t miss a finger-picking beat.

Mojo Tent at Sundown, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2017, Australia

Mojo Tent at Sundown

As the sun lowered over the tents on the last day, we became aware that another festival was soon coming to a close.

Text: Let

We still had the last of the international big names to take in, but we were already dancing and singing, well “warmed up” by our excellent local performers.

Until next time,

Let’s dance!

Pictures: 15-17April2017

Mabry Mill, Blue Ridge Parkway VA USA

Mabry Mill
One of the most photographed sites on the Blue Ridge Parkway, the charming Mabry Mill dates back to the early 1900s.

Steering the car off the turnpikes and onto the Blue Ridge Parkway is like stepping back in time.

One has to slow down instantly: the posted speed limit is never higher than 45 mph (72 kph), and the winding mountain curves ensure slower speeds in many sections. For the 469 miles (755 km) that snake through the valleys and passes of the Blue Ridge Mountains, there are trees and mountain-tops stretching into the horizon. The few homesteads or townships that can be seen in the valleys below are rendered idyllic by their very distance.

Appalachian frontiersmen – like Daniel Boone – were glamorised for their ruggedness and self-sufficiency. However, life of old in these mountains was far from romantic. The beauty of the environment has to be balanced against the relentless physicality of the lifestyle. Early farmers struggled not only against the harsh terrain and environment, but also against unfair taxation and lack of state funding for infrastructure development. Even in recent years, poverty indicators have remained high, and isolated pockets still exist without electricity or running water. 

The Appalachian Scenic Highway, as the Blue Ridge Parkway was originally called under the administration of President Franklin D. Roosevelt, sought to preserve some of the history and culture of the hard-working mountain people who carved a life there, and to protect the flora and the fauna indigenous to the region. This is the land of bluegrass music, cornhusk dolls, intricate woodwork, and stunning patchwork quilts. 

The first stop for my husband and myself after entering this “National Scenic Byway” at its northernmost point at Rockfish Gap, Virginia (Mile 0) late last spring, was at the Humpback Rocks Farm Visitor Center,;where we were able to appreciate how how hard these pioneers had to work (see: Driving the Blue Ridge Parkway Part 1).

Outbuilding - Humpback Rocks Farm, Blue Ridge Parkway VA USA

Outbuilding – Humpback Rocks Farm (Mile 6.1)
Early settlers used ingenuity and the materials around them, building over creeks and using stone foundations for cold-storage areas. The cabin homestead and outbuildings at Humpback Rocks Farm all date to the 1800s, and were collected from the surrounding area as representatives of the self-sufficient 19th century farms in the region. (iPhone6)

White Tailed Deer, Blue Ridge Parkway, VA USA

White Tailed Deer (Odocoileus Virginianus)
As well as readily available building materials, enterprising settlers had plenty of game in the woods, …

Wild Strawberry flowers, Blue Ridge Parkway, VA USA

Wild Strawberries
… and wild fruits, nuts, and vegetables all around them.

Wild Turkey, Blue Ridge Parkway, VA USA

Wild Turkey
Native American wild turkeys (Meleagris gallopavo) still roam here. I just caught this one from the car window before s/he moved off into the woods.

View of pastoral lands from a car Window, Blue Ridge Parkway, VA USA

View from the Window
Unlike the roughly-hewn farms of old, the modern farming operations we pass are tracts of very tidy flat ground. (iPhone6)

Tulip Tree Flowers, Blue Ridge Parkway, VA USA

Tulip Tree Flowers
The open farmlands are interspersed with expansive National Forests. One of my favourite trees was the exotic Tulip Tree (Liriodendron tulipifera), a native in these eastern North American Appalachian cove forests.

Mabry Mill in Spring, Blue Ridge Parkway, VA USA

Mabry Mill in Spring
It’s a picture postcard: an old wooden mill, backed by stone bridges and wet spring Virginia woods.

Mabry Mill in Spring, Blue Ridge Parkway, VA USA

Mabry Mill  (Mile 176.1)
Some time before 1905, Ed and his wife Lizzie Mabry, together with their neighbour, Newton Hylton, started building a wooden gristmill, waterwheel, …

Water Flume, Mabry Mill, Blue Ridge Parkway, VA USA

Water Flume
… and lengthy water supply system – all with local woods and hand tools. 

Water Flume, Mabry Mill, Blue Ridge Parkway, VA USA

Water Flume
Ed Mabry understood using water for power. In the late 1800s, he had a water-turned lathe, which he used to make chairs.

Bridge in the Green, Mabry Mill, Blue Ridge Parkway, VA USA

Bridge in the Green
The National Park Service purchased the mill and property from Lizzie Mabry in 1938, and finished the restoration in 1942. Today, visitors can wander around the gristmill, sawmill, and blacksmith shop.

Duck on the Lawn, Mabry Mill, Blue Ridge Parkway, VA USA

Duck on the Lawn

Rhododendron Buds, Mabry Mill, Blue Ridge Parkway, VA USA

Rhododendron Buds
The mill’s surrounds are beautiful; but one can only imagine the daily unremitting physical hard work …

Mabry Mill in Spring, Blue Ridge Parkway, VA USA

Mabry Mill
… against the gorgeous backdrop of the changing seasons. For a while, the mill was very successful: “…people from as far away as eight miles were bringing their corn to be ground.” But, Ed injured his back in the 1920s, and sporadic rainfall in the 1930s made running the mill unpredictable. When Ed died in 1939, the property was in disrepair.

Tapestry in the Mabry Mill Center, , Blue Ridge Parkway, VA USA

Mabry Mill Tapestry
Today, the area is popular with tourists all year round, but especially during peak seasons, when old-time craft demonstrations take place. This tapestry is a eye-catching example of the artistic quilting that is a highlight of the region.

Puckett Cabin and its signboard, Blue Ridge Parkway, VA USA

Puckett Cabin (Mile 189.9)
Puckett Cabin on Groundhog Mountain is a visual reminder of another great Appalachian
character: Orlean Hawks Puckett. Alternately called Orleana, Orlena, Aulina, or even Pauline, Orlean was born in 1837 and married at 16. The story is that she gave birth to 24 children between 1862 and 1881 – many were stillborn and none survived more than a day or two. It is not clear why all her children died; while it has been suggested that she or her husband murdered them, it is more likely that she had some disease that infected the baby, like Rh hemolytic disease. Without any formal education, and starting when she was almost 50, she reputedly went on to help deliver more than 1,000 babies without losing a single mother or child. She continued to work as a volunteer midwife almost until her death in 1939 at the age of 102.

View through a windscreen over a rainy Blue Ridge Parkway

Rain on the Parkway
Every mile …

View through a windscreen over a tree-lined Blue Ridge Parkway

View from my Window
… and every hour … (iPhone6)

View through a windscreen of a stone road bridge, Blue Ridge Parkway

Stone Bridge
… as we wound our way from Virginia into North Carolina

Endless Mountains from the Blue Ridge Parkway, NC USA

Endless Mountains
… we could look out over the forests and the mountains and imagine them going on forever as they did in the past. 

NC Highway 23/74 off the Blue Ridge Parkway

Back in the Modern World
Then, unlike the hardy pioneers, we pulled off the Parkway every evening, and re-entered the modern world for the night.

I guess highways and roadworks are part of the price we pay for our modern creature comforts.

It was a very different world for those early Appalachian mountain people – and still is for the communities even now living deep in the woods and mountains … 

Text: Happy Rambling

Until next time,

Happy Rambling!

Pictures: 25-27May2016

Portrait: bearded man in elaborate face paint, tinsel, artificial flowers, and pompoms, Pashupatinath Nepal

Colourful “Sadhu”
With his elaborate face paint – and the tinsel, artificial flowers, and pompoms in his hair – this man is a far cry from the ascetic sadhus one sees wandering all over India and Nepal.

Pashupatinath, three kilometres northwest of Kathmandu on the Bagmati River, is home to one of the most sacred of Nepal’s Hindu temples and cremation sites.

One of the “seven groups of monuments and buildings” that make up the UNESCO-listed Kathmandu ValleyPashupatinath Temple and the Bagmati Cremation Ghats are also on just about every tourist’s itinerary while in the city. So, the site hosts a mix of holy people tending shrines and selling blessings, venders trading in all manner of religious paraphernalia and offerings, Hindu pilgrims, non-Hindu tourists and gawkers, hawkers of tourist trinkets, and beggars.

The first time I visited Pashupatinath, some 15+ years ago (see: Heaven and Hard Work), I was almost overwhelmed by the experience: I found the sight of families around the ghats across the black and filthy river, with their deceased loved ones in flames, distressing and ineffably sad. The hot, humid air was thick with the smells of smoke from the funeral pyres, burning incense, and human waste. A crowd of beggars, children and hawkers attached themselves to the small group I was travelling with, and it was impossible to move without almost stepping on someone. 

Last March, thanks to a workshop organised by travel photographer Gavin Gough, with the help of photojournalist Jack Kurtz, I got to visit again with a small group of photography enthusiasts.

Pashupatinath has changed: the April 2015 earthquake hit this area, damaging some of the shrines. It was raining, so the steps on the east bank of the Bagmati were washed clean, and much less crowded than I remembered. I certainly don’t remember wildly-decorated “sadhus” hanging around with their hands out for money! 

But, I too have changed. I have much more “travel experience” under my belt now, and deal much more easily with the unfamiliar. I found myself “seeing” much more of the site this trip, and interacting more comfortably with all the people there – not just those dressed up for the benefit of the tourists.

I spent some time visiting the Siddhi Shaligram Briddhashram, the “Home for the Elderly”, a Social Welfare Center facility originally built as the Panchdeval (five shrines) Pakshala during the mid- to late 19th century within the grounds of the Pashupatinath Temple complex. This is a beautiful, serene facility for frail old people without independent means, and whose relatives can’t or won’t care for them in a world that has moved towards more stand-alone nuclear families. It was a shame that photos were not allowed inside, because not only did the elderly residents have a quiet dignity, but the central shrine itself –  although damaged by the earthquake – was beautiful.

This set of photos speaks much more about the people of Pashupatinath than the place.

Burning Ghats on the Bagmati River, Pashupatinath Nepal

Burning Ghats
The cremation ghats, in use 24 hours a day, line the west bank of the Bagmati River.

A burning ghat on the Bagmati River, Pashupatinath Nepal

Cremation Pyre
Hindus believe that fire purifies and liberates the body, allowing it to disintegrate back into the five Mahabhutas, or great elements.

People on the east bank of the Bagmati, Pashupatinath Nepal

People on the Steps
Many local and international tourists enter the temple area from the east bank. Perhaps it is a consequence of the still-low post-earthquake tourist numbers, but this area was much less crowded than I remembered from my last visit many years ago.

Rhesus macaque monkey, east bank of the Bagmati, Pashupatinath Nepal

Monkey on the Steps
The monkeys (rhesus macaques) on the river bank enjoy scraps from the visitors and the sadhus.

Three colourful "Sadhus", east bank of the Bagmati, Pashupatinath Nepal

Colourful Sadhus
Three brightly painted “holy men” were waiting in the alcoves on the east bank for tourists to take their pictures.

Sadhu with a Kumbh, bank of the Bagmati, Pashupatinath Nepal

Sadhu with a Kumbha 
Nepali Hindus that I spoke to insisted that these are fake “holy men” from India; …

Sadhu with a Kumbh, bank of the Bagmati, Pashupatinath Nepal

Sadhu with a Water Pot
real sadhus – especially Nepali ones – don’t beg to have their pictures taken.

Colourful "Sadhu", east bank of the Bagmati, Pashupatinath Nepal

Colourful Sadhu
But, I think it is a bit like the men in leather togas at the coliseum in Rome: they stand around all day in costumes and if you want to take their picture, you pay for it. It’s a tough way to make a living! We agreed a price up front, and made our shots.

Bridge over the Bagmati River, Pashupatinath Nepal

Bridge over the Bagmati River
Non-Hindus are not allowed into the inner temple, but there are plenty of nooks, crannies and shrines to explore regardless.

Hindu Holy Woman with coloured powders, Pashupatinath Nepal

Hindu Holy Woman
My first stop was to get a tilaka (or bindi) applied to my forehead, some kalava threads tied around my wrist, and blessings in general bestowed upon me, by a holy woman.

Portrait: Hindu Holy Woman, Pashupatinath Nepal

Hindu Holy Woman

Portrait: Hindu Holy Woman, Pashupatinath Nepal

Hindu Holy Woman
Having a tilaka on my forehead already didn’t stop the next woman from beckoning me into her little shrine for another blessing.

Young child applying Tika Powder, Pashupatinath Nepal

Applying Tika Powder
Morning rituals start young!

Young child applying Tika Powder, Pashupatinath Nepal

Total Focus
Creating a tilaka takes a great deal of attention.

Portrait: Hindu Woman, Pashupatinath Nepal

Tenacity and Grace
Always graceful, but unrelenting: this saleswoman was determined that I should buy one the necklaces she had for sale. Of course, I was no match – and did.

Stairs Up through the Pashupatinath complex, Nepal

Stairs Up
The temple complex continues up a set of steps, away from the river.

An orange Ganesh figure in a Hindu shrine, Pashupatinath Nepal

Ganesha
Although most of the complex is dedicated to Pashupati, an incarnation of Shiva, this shrine features the elephant-headed god Ganesha.

Shrines in the Pashupatinath complex, Nepal

Shrines
Old trees, moss-covered shrines, and piles of rubble are everywhere.

Old bell in the Pashupatinath complex, Nepal

Old Bell

Ruins in the Pashupatinath complex, Nepal

Ruins
Ornate concrete fascia pieces sit in a pile amongst the many shrines.

Monkey in the Ruins in the Pashupatinath complex, Nepal

Monkey in the Ruins
The monkeys are at home here.

Guru and a Golden Statue, Pashupatinath complex, Nepal

Pouring Water over a Golden Statue
They (and I) watch over a wall as a man pours water over a golden statue; …

Guru pouring water over a Golden Statue, Pashupatinath complex, Nepal

Guru and a Golden Statue

Ruined arches inside an enclosure, Pashupatinath complex, Nepal

Ruins inside the Enclosure
There was an entry into the enclosure housing the golden statue. Cows roamed freely, and pieces of old buildings slid into collapse.

Off Duty Police Officer iPhone

Off-Duty Police Officer
With broken English and pantomime, this charming young policeman and I had a chat. He explained that the man in orange was paying tribute to his guru. (iPhone6)

A man washing the Golden statue of Yogi Narahari Nath

Yogi Narahari Nath
Much research later, I managed to ascertain that the golden statue is of Yogi Narahari Nath (1915–2003), an influential Nepalese “historian, writer and saint of Nath tradition of Gorakhnath.” 

It is amazing what you learn when you have a chance to talk to people at the sites that “everybody” visits!

Sign-Off-Namaste

Until next time, 

Namaste!

Pictures: 11March2017

  • sidran - July 22, 2017 - 5:48 am

    Delightful post, as always. The Sadhus-real and fraud look interesting. That kid applying tilak stole my heart!ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - July 23, 2017 - 3:47 am

      Thanks very much, Sidran. That child was a cutie – and just ignored me while I watched! 😀ReplyCancel

  • melissa - June 19, 2018 - 12:08 am

    Ursula,
    You always do a wonderful job collecting your thoughts and presenting the full story through pictures and the accompanying text. You captured the area perfectly. One think that stood out for me at the home for the aged is that the “aged” are welcome starting at 65 years. That caught my attention. I’d hate to think that I could be checking in next year. Congrats on another interesting blog post.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - June 19, 2018 - 12:20 am

      Thanks so much, Melissa!
      Tell the truth, I almost feel ready for some TLC at an aged-care facility at the moment. But yes, I’m sure you won’t be “old” for a very long time.
      Seriously though, it was such a lovely spot; I felt so pleased that those frail elderly folk had somewhere nice to be. Life expectancy in Nepal is 71: all that dust and wood-smoke takes its toll.
      Happy travels! ~ UrsulaReplyCancel

  • […] Light and Dark; A Thousand Steps; Dhulikel to Nagarkot; On the Track) and in Kathmandu itself (e.g: Faith, Faces, and Fakes; Light a Candle), and was spending the morning in […]ReplyCancel

Tourist boat, Reinfall Switzerland

On the Rhine Falls
Tourists on a passenger boat and on a viewing platform marvel at the face of Europe’s largest water fall: the Reinfall on the Rhine River between the Swiss Cantons of Zurich and Schaffhausen.

Travelling around Switzerland is like luxuriating in a box of the rich, truffle-filled chocolates that the country is famous for.

Everywhere you go, picture-postcard scenes meet you.

And, if you have Swiss friends to guide you and a Swiss Travel Pass in hand, you don’t even have to work hard: accessing these magic places is easy.

We were headed out on a simple day trip from where we were staying near Zurich: we were taking a train to the SBB (Schweizerische Bundesbahnen) railway station at Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall, another train across the river to Schaffhausen, and then a third train back to Zurich 

Viaduct over the Rheinfall, Switzerland

Viaduct over the Rheinfall
Our rail trip to the Rhine Falls gave us a good view over the roiling waters of the Rhine – and of the railway and pedestrian viaduct that crosses it. (iPhone5)

Bridge into Schloss Laufen over the Rheinfall, Switzerland

Accessing the Rheinfall
The medieval castle of Schloss Laufen, sitting high over the Falls, now operates as a tourist attraction …

Courtyard at Schloss Laufen over the Rheinfall, Switzerland

Courtyard over the Rheinfall
… and houses a restaurant and a youth hostel.

Glassed-in Elevator at Schloss Laufen over the Rheinfall, Switzerland

Outside Elevator
The Castle also offers an elevator down to the river for those who don’t want to make the short walk.

The Rhine Falls from Zurich side, Switzerland

The Roar of the Rhine Falls
At river-level, it is easier to appreciate the power of the 150 metre- (490 ft) wide falls.

Red tourist boat on the Rhine Falls, Switzerland

Boats on the Rhine Falls
The tourist boats on the river are colour-coded: some do a brief tour, some let you out at the rocks in the middle of the falls, and some explore further.

tourist boat on the Rhine Falls, Switzerland

Boat on the Rhine Fall
The tourist boats are dwarfed by the spray from the 23 metre- (75 ft) high falls.

Tourists in a boat on the Rheinfall, Switzerland

On the Rheinfall
We opted for the short trip –

Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall from the water, Switzerland

Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall
– which never-the-less gave us a good view of the castle on the right bank of the river, …

Central Rocks in the Rheinfall from the water, Switzerland

Central Rocks in the Falls
… and of the island rock structures in the middle of the falls. The taller rock has a boat dock and a walking path up to the Swiss flag at the top.

Yellow tourist boat on the Rhine Falls, Switzerland

Tourist Boat on the Rhine Falls

Hexagonal top of the Munot tower, Schaffhausen Switzerland

The Munot
It was a very short train trip from Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall, and across the river to Schaffhausen – with it’s landmark 16th-century circular fortress. (iPhone5)

Munot tower, Schaffhausen Switzerland

The Munot
Built using forced labour between 1563 and 1585, today the circular Munot Fortress is accessed by a walk bridge over a deep moat.

Dark interior of the Munot, Schaffhausen Switzerland

Inside the Fortress
The inside of the Munot is dark and eerie; I have no idea how it must have been configured in the old days when it was defending against French invaders.

Portrait: bride and groom in low light inside the Munot, Schaffhausen Switzerland

Wedding Couple
Old buildings might be interesting, but this one is little more than a shell – albeit a fascinating and unique shell – with diagrams; …

Portrait: bride and groom in low light inside the Munot, Schaffhausen Switzerland

Wedding Couple
… so having newlyweds using the site for their pictures made the walls come to life!

Top of the Munot tower, Schaffhausen Switzerland

Top of the Munot
At the top of the Munot, there are plenty of tables where you can enjoy a coffee or ice-cream.

View over Altstadt Schaffhausen from the Munot tower, Switzerland

View over Altstadt
Alternately, you can admire the views over old Schaffhausen

View over Altstadt Schaffhausen from the Munot tower, Switzerland

View over the Rhine
… and the river; …

Wedding Party on roof of the Munot, Schaffhausen Switzerland

Wedding Party on the Munot
… or you can just people-watch.

Dark interior, lightened doorway, of the Munot, Schaffhausen Switzerland

Head Towards the Light!
We worked our way back down through the dark tower, towards the light of the fortress’ doorway.

Altstadt through the Vines, the Munot, Schaffhausen Switzerland

Altstadt through the Vines
From there, we were pitched headlong through the vines … 

Altstadt tiled roof, the Munot, Schaffhausen Switzerland

Rooftop
… and past the quaintly tiled rooftops, …

Stairs to the Altstadt, the Munot, Schaffhausen Switzerland

Stairs to the Altstadt
… and down the steep stairs towards the Old City of Schaffhausen.

Crosswalk to the Old Town, Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Crosswalk to the Old Town

Oriel Window with red geraniums, Old Town, Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Oriel Windows
Schaffhausen has been called “Erkerstadt” because of the 171 Erker (oriel bay windows) in the city.

Reflections of the street in a jewellery shop window, Old Town, Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Shopfront Selfie
I love the abstract layers that are produced by reflections: photographer, photographed; old town; modern shop with new products.

Town Square with a fountain, Old Town, Schaffhausen, Switzerland

A Town Square

Man sitting with a shopping bag, , Old Town, Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Waiting for the Wife

Girl in a Fountain, Old Town, Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Girl in the Fountain

 

Haus zum Ritter, Old Town, Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Haus zum Ritter (built in 1492)
Like many of the building fronts in Schaffhausen, Haus zum Ritter is wonderfully decorated with frescos.

Oriel Bay Window,Old Town, Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Erker : Oriel Window
The oriel windows in Schaffhausen were built as status symbols on the houses of rich merchants.

Toy mouse on a log with a mouse-trap,, Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Swiss Cheese Trap
Some of the ornate building-fronts house quirky shops selling unique items – like Swiss cheese traps.

Frescoed Building Front, Old Town, Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Beautiful Building Front
Other buildings appear to exist for their own sake.

Text: Happy TravelsA simple day trip, but one filled with postcard-views.

Until next time, 

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 3August2014