Captain Sponge on his canopied oyster punt, Pambula Australia

“Captain Sponge”
Brett Weingarth, better known as “Sponge”, takes groups out onto Pambula Lake and Pambula River to visit the oyster leases and learn about oysters and oyster farming.

It is always a joy to meet someone who loves their work!

Brett Weingarth is an oyster farmer who is so excited about oysters, and the environment they grow in, that he conducts regular tours of the oyster leases on the tidal waters of Pambula Lake (Broadwater), just off Australia’s southeastern Sapphire Coast. Brett grew up  “dryland” farming, but moved off the land and onto the water during one of Australia’s worst droughts. He now operates a number of oyster leases on Pambula Lake, the Pambula River, and nearby Merimbula Lake. In the process of learning about oyster farming, Brett has also become knowledgeable about region’s coastal waterways and passionate about protecting them. Oysters have been called the ‘canaries of the waterway’– they are an indicator of estuarine health. Therefore, environmental protection projects and local small business models go hand-in-hand.

The waters here are special: this is where the warm, fast flowing East Australian Current, which originates in the tropical Coral Sea, meets and clashes with the cold, nutrient-filled waters running north from Antarctica. The confluence of these two currents results in a rich marine bio-diversity – and a thriving seafood industry. Branded under “Australia’s Oyster Coast”, Pambula oyster growers take advantage of the daily tidal exchange of waters rushing in from the Pacific Ocean, and the fresh water flowing out from the Pambula and Yowaka Rivers, producing three premium export-quality oyster species: endemic Sydney Rock Oysters, the rarer native Angasi, and the popular Pacific Oysters introduced from Japan.

Although the weather didn’t really favour us the day we had booked for our Oyster Tour, at least we didn’t have to get up too early. The tide-tables meant that our Boxing Day tour left around noon, rather than the usual crack-of-dawn start! That gave us plenty of time to digest our Christmas lunch from the day before, and find the jetty that “Captain Sponge’s Magical Oyster Tours” calls home.

Captain Sponges Oversized Oyster Punt, Landing Road, Pambula Australia

Captain Sponge’s Oversized Oyster Punt
The “Magical Oyster Tours” boat is functional and sheltered enough for the two-hour cruise around the estuary. Licensed to carry a maximum of 23 people, our smaller group – once they all arrived – had plenty of room on the cushioned benches.

Brett Weingarth briefing passengers on his oyster punt, Landing Road, Pambula Australia

Introductory Briefing
Before we push away from the shore, Brett gives us the requisite safety briefing.

Oyster Shells on the rocks at the dock, Landing Road Pambula Australia

Oyster Shells on the Shore
And we are off! There is evidence of rich oyster life everywhere we look. For thousand of years before European settlement, Thaua Aboriginal people of the Yuin Nation caught and ate oysters here: all around the coastline, there are ancient kitchen middens piled high with shells.

Oyster Shack and oyster lease, Pambula River, Australia

Oyster Shack
On both sides of the river, oyster trays are tied together on the waters. This tiny oyster shack sports an Australia’s Oyster Coast (AOC) sign, indicating it is part of the AOC growers’ collective.

Disused Oyster Trays, Pambula River, Australia

Disused Oyster Frames

Mangroves on the Foreshore, Pambula River, Australia

Mangroves on the Foreshore
Mangroves are uniquely adapted to brackish tidal waters. In turn, they help protect the shorelines where they live: their roots and breathing tubes reduce erosion, capture nutrients, and shelter small creatures from waves and water movement.

Jet skis and picnickers on Pambula River, Australia

Recreation on the River
The extensive twists and arms of the Pambula River make for popular recreation sites – especially in the middle of an Australian summer. 

Kayaks on Pambula River, Australia

Kayaks
Holiday-makers are out with kayaks …

Jet Skis and riders at a Dock, Pambula River, Australia

Jet Skis at the Dock
… power boats and jet skis.

Aluminium Tinnie docked at Broadwater Oyster

Aluminium Tinnie at the Oyster Shed
I guess the oysters aren’t too worried by all the other activity on the water. Nor do they care about public holidays. People are busy at work at the Broadwater Oyster’s buildings.

Two people in a kayak on Pambula Lake, Australia

Double Kayak
I always laugh when I see two people in a kayak: I had an instructor who called these double kayaks “divorce boats”. It can be difficult for two people to stay coordinated, leading to potential struggles maintaining the desired direction.

Oyster Farm, Pambula Lake, Australia

“Oyster Farm 81/091”
There are countless farms on the lake. In numbered lots, oyster baskets stretch out on the waves, …

Oyster Farm, Pambula Lake, Australia

Neat Rows
… running in straight lines in all directions, …

Oyster Lease, Pambula Lake, Australia

Oyster Lease
… or straining in curves against the currents. Clearly, every farmer has their preferred method of growing these popular bivalve molluscs.

A man working his oyster lease, Pambula Lake, Australia

Working the Farm
There is a lot of work in oyster farming, but Brett says he loves being on the water and choosing his own hours.

Covered oyster trays, Pambula Lake, Australia

Oyster Beds
Oysters need to be tumbled around in a semi-controlled way or their shells will become too thin and flat. The trays are covered, protecting them from the sun and from predators.

Oyster farmer over the side of his punt, Pambula Lake, Australia

Brett Goes Overboard!
Brett hangs off the side of his punt …

Oyster farmer over the side of his punt, Pambula Lake, Australia

Lifting the Lid
… to check the size and health of his crop.

Oysters in their metal growing frame, Pambula Lake, Australia

Oysters in their Frame

A plate of fresh oysters with lemon and lime sections, Pambula Lake Australia

Fruits of the Farm
Oysters have to be eaten (or cooked or processed) fresh. Tour participants had the opportunity to “shuck” fresh oysters with different purpose-built knives before we all got to taste-test the produce.

Sapphire waters on the foreshores of Pambula Lake, Australia

Sapphire Waters
As we are heading back to the dock, there is a break in the weather and the sapphire waters that give this stretch of coastline its name shine through.

The Crippled Maxi Yacht Wild Oats XI in Snug Cove, Eden Australia

Wild Oats XI
Before heading home for the day, we stopped at another wharf, one town over: Snug Cove, in Eden, where the crippled maxi yacht Wild Oats XI had limped in after failing to complete the Sydney to Hobart yacht race because of a broken hydraulic ram.

There is always something interesting happening on our local waters.

Text: Safe SailingOur oyster tour was most enjoyable, informative, and – best of all – tasty!

Until next time, 

Safe Sailing!

Photos: 26December2016 

Mongolian girl in Kazakh eagle hunter costume, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Managing her Eagle
Training golden eagles to hunt is physically and mentally demanding. Young Nurguli needs all her strength and a great deal of focus to call her eagle to come to her from a perch at the top of the hill and to land on her gloved arm. The eagle gets fresh fox meat as a reward.

She’s not the first, and she’s not the only one, but she is still a rarity these days: a female Kazakh eagle hunter.

Hunting with golden eagles is a long-standing custom among the Turkic peoples (particularly the Kazakh and Kyrgyz) across the Eurasian steppe. During the 1930s, large numbers of Kazakhs fled from communist-controlled Kazakhstan through the Altai Mountains to Bayan-Ölgii Province in the western corner of Mongolia. They brought with them their Kazakh language and Muslim religion, their pastoral-nomadic lifestyle, and their tradition of hunting with eagles.

One report I read suggested there are “as few as 60 authentic eagle hunters left”. Perhaps the emphasis here is on “authentic” – whatever that means – because more than that number participate in the Eagle Festival in Ulgii (Ölgii) each year. Wikipedia puts the number of eagle hunters in Bayan-Ölgii Aimag alone at about 250.

Of course, the vast majority of these hunters are men. Conventional wisdom holds that eagle hunting was traditionally handed down from father to son. However, as one academic argues, eagle huntresses were probably more common in ancient times. A nomadic lifestyle relies on the physical competence of all its members. “The combination of horse riding and archery was an equalizer, leveling out physical differences: a woman on horseback is as fast and agile as a man.”

I already had my tickets to Mongolia in hand when the trailers for the hit documentary movie: The Eagle Huntress were released. The film follows thirteen-year-old Aisholpan Nurgaiv as she captures a young eagle from its nest, trains to become the first female in twelve generations within her family to become an eagle huntress, and goes on to be the first female to enter and win the competition at the annual Eagle Festival

So, I was thrilled to hear she would be attending and competing in the festival I was travelling to (more about that anon). 

I was even more thrilled to hear that the youngest eagle hunter-in-training in the family I was staying with was Nurguli, the patriarch’s 13-year-old granddaughter. 

It was a real privilege to follow young Nurguli through the mountains, as her grandfather Sarkhad, and her uncles Razdak and Jakslak worked with their huge golden birds, and helped the teenager train hers. 

Two Kazakhs on horseback with eagles on a dusty hill, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Mounted Kazakhs with Eagles
Female golden eagles are much larger than their male counterparts, and are therefore able to bring down heavier prey. They are also considered better hunters. Fledgeling female eagles are taken from their nests and hand raised by the eagle hunters. Teaching the young eagle to come when called involves starting from the top of a hill.

Three Kazaks on a rocky hill with their eagles, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Family Group
The eagle hunters rest near the top of the hill before launching the birds to be caught at the bottom. The leather hoods that the raptors wear to keep them calm will stay on until the hunters are ready to release the birds to flight. The hunters themselves all wear handmade, colourfully embroidered velvet outfits when they are working or competing with their birds. Their hats are trimmed with fox fur their eagles have caught for them.

Young Kazakh eagle huntress ready to catch her raptor, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Incoming Eagle
The eagle is called to the handler with a loud whistle. Young Nurguli looks so small on the hill, as her bird – which can reach speeds of 240 to 320 kilometres per hour (150 to 200 mph) when diving after prey – comes in to land.

Young Kazakh eagle huntress catching her raptor, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Catching her Golden Eagle
Average female wing length for golden eagles in this region is from 65 to 72 cm (26 to 28 in). This raptor’s overall wingspan is greater than Nurguli’s height; she has to really brace herself for the bird’s landing.

Young Kazakh eagle huntress catching her raptor, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

The Eagle has Landed
Once her eagle has its reward of fresh meat, Nurguli takes hold of the jesses so that she has better control of her bird.

Young Kazakh eagle huntress handing her raptor to another handler, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Training her Eagle
Eagle training takes time. The whole process of calling and catching her eagle is repeated; Nurguli hands her hooded eagle to her uncle, who carries it up the hill for another release.

Young and old Kazakh eagle hunters ready to catch her raptor, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Waiting for her Eagle
Grandfather Sarkhad gives Nurguli some pointers ….

Young Kazakh eagle huntress handing her raptor to another handler, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Waiting for her Eagle
… before leaving her to wait alone and call her bird.

Young Kazakh eagle huntress catching her raptor, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Eagle Landing
The powerful bird nearly knocks Nurguli over as it comes into land. You need to keep your bare skin well away from raptor beaks and claws: many an eagle hunter – including one of Nurguli’s uncles – bears the scars of eagle handling gone wrong!

Mongolian girl in Kazakh eagle hunter costume, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Nurguli and her Eagle
Nurguli is a quiet, solemn girl. She did her best to ignore the small group of photographers following her around – a task made easier for her by the lack of a shared language. She lit up, however, when she was handling her bird.

Four Kazakh eagle hunters, one on horseback with their eagles on a rocky hill, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Eagle Hunters x Four

Four Kazakh eagle hunters on horseback with their eagles on a rocky hill, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Eagle Hunters Horseback
Mongolian horses are small, fearless, half wild, and unbelievably tough. They are an essential means of transport in this rugged environment.

Kazakh eagle hunter on horseback with her eagles on a rocky hill, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Nurguli on Horseback
The eagle hunters have fashioned a pole system so that their birds can perch while riding horseback. Female golden eagles can weigh around 6.35 kg (14.0 lb), which is heavy to carry for any length of time.

Two Kazakhs on a rocky hill with their eagle and horse, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Hunters on the Hill

Young Kazakh eagle huntress running, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Nurguli Running
Nurguli runs back down the hill …

Mongolian girl in Kazakh eagle hunter costume, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Catching her Eagle
… to effect another eagle-catch.

Mongolian girl in Kazakh eagle hunter costume with her eagle, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Managing her Eagle
As Nurguli rewards her beautiful raptor, …

Mongolian girl in Kazakh eagle hunter costume with her eagle, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Managing her Eagle
… we can admire the power in those long wings, pointed beak, …

Mongolian girl in Kazakh eagle hunter costume with her eagle, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Golden Eagle in a Hood
… and long, sharp talons.

Young and old Kazakh eagle hunters seated with their raptors, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Sarkhad and Nurguli
It was lovely to watch the generations of family working together, passing traditions and knowledge forward.

Mongolian girl in Kazakh eagle hunter costume with her eagle, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Nurguli and her Eagle

Three eagle hunters on a ridge, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Eagle Hunters on a Ridge
A couple of days later, at the top of another rocky ridge …

Young female eagle hunter on a ridge, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Eagle Huntress on a Ridge
Nurguli was taking her turn at launching a golden eagle – a feat that takes some strength.

Mongolian girl in Kazakh eagle hunter costume a ridge, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Nurguli
Young Nurguli is the face of the future for Mongolia’s Kazakh eagle hunters.

In 1932, a Torghut noble from Mongolia, Princess Nirgidma (1907-1983), famous horsewoman and eagle huntress, told a National Geographic interviewer: “We Mongols are emancipated … a good horse and a wide plain, that’s our desire.”

To the Future (text)

This desire continues, and the spirit lives on.

It is good to see that it is being passed on to the future generation.

To the Future!

Pictures: 28&30Septembery2016

Rock piles and fallen granite, Nogoonnuur, Bayan-Ölgii, Mongolia.

Rocks on the Hill
There is no shortage of rock in Mongolia. On our last day of driving across the country, we lunched in the shelter of the fascinating stone formations and tumbled granite on a high ridge, not far from Nogoonnuur in Mongolia’s western-most province of Bayan-Ölgii.

A serpentine track of crushed rock switches back and forth across the almost-empty Mongolian landscape.

One has to wonder why there are so many bends in a road of ruts and rocks and puddles when it only has to cross a relatively flat plateau! Yet, our Russian UAZ (Ulyanovsky Avtomobilny Zavod) four-wheel-drives refuse to follow a straight line – or even a long curve.

I – and a small group of photographic enthusiasts – were in the care of Mongolian guides G and Segi of Shaman Tours, and photographers Jeffrey Chapman and Winslow Lockhart from Within the Frame. We were on the long road west from Ulaanbaatar. On this, our sixth day of bumping across the country towards the Golden Eagle Festival in Bayan-Ölgii, West Mongolia, we set out from Uureg Lake in the Altai Mountains and drove into dustings of snow falling in flat light. Outside our truck windows, granite boulders were coloured by rusty-pink lichen. Rocky plains were punctuated by clumps of sparse yellow grass, stunted bushes in soft rust, sage, and yellow-green, and of course, by rocky cairns and litter.

Always, the litter! Plastic bags, plastic bottles, and toilet paper. The Mongolian landscape – unspoiled by buildings, infrastructure or formal roadways, was never-the-less covered in litter. 

It was the last segment of our journey west across this vast landscape, towards our destination in Mongolia’s  westernmost province, where we would pitch our ger camp for several days. Our drivers continued to thread their sturdy, utilitarian vehicles through flooded rivers, over rocks, rocks and more rocks, and finally along the side of a gravel mountain that had slid down itself …

Often, it was best to ignore the “road” and just appreciate the scenery!

Cold morning over Uuleg Lake, Mongolia

Morning on Uuleg Lake
Day dawns cold over Uureg Lake and the Altai Mountains as we set off on the last day of driving westward.

View from a UAZ windshield over snowy hills, Uvs Mongolia

View from the Truck
Our UAZ follows the winding, pitted dirt tracks west into the snowy hills. (iPhone6)

Rock piles above Nogoonnuur, Bayan-Ölgii, Mongolia.

Rocky Peak
After a long morning of bumping over dirt and gravel, we reached the plateau between Uvz and Bayan-Ölgii provinces …

Rock piles and fallen granite, Nogoonnuur, Bayan-Ölgii, Mongolia.

Rocks Formations
… where we stopped for a lunch break among the fallen granite boulders.

Lichen on a rough granite surface, Nogoonnuur, Bayan-Ölgii, Mongolia.

Lichen on the Rocks
Not much grows in this windswept environment: a few lichens on the rough granite, …

Grass in the granite rocks, Nogoonnuur, Bayan-Ölgii, Mongolia.

Grass in the Rocks
… and clumps of dry grasses tucked into rocky crevices.

Rock piles and fallen granite, Nogoonnuur, Bayan-Ölgii, Mongolia.

Tumbled Boulders
Fallen granite boulders are piled in heaps …

Rock piles and fallen granite, Nogoonnuur, Bayan-Ölgii, Mongolia.

Rocks on the Hill
… and scattered across the sandy ground.

Packing up a UAZ on a Rocky plateau, Nogoonnuur, Bayan-Ölgii, Mongolia.

Packing up Lunch
When our meal is finished, our chef Yagaanaa and her team pack up the dedicated kitchen-truck.

Rocky plateau, Nogoonnuur, Bayan-Ölgii, Mongolia.

Rocks on the Plateau
The mountains stretch off into the distance either side of us.

Autumnal grasses and trees on a rocky river, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Rocky River
The landscape on the other side of the plateau, into Bayan-Ölgii province, is subtly coloured: river-rocks and autumnal grasses and trees. (iPhone6)

Autumnal grasses and trees on a rocky river, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

River Crossing
We have to cross a number of rocky waterways; … (iPhone6)

UAZ in a rocky river, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

River Crossing
… several without the benefit of bridges or causeways.

View from a UAZ windshield over twisting rivers, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Rivers Winding
Onward we travel, across endless twisting rivers, through flooded valleys, and over rocks, rocks, and more rocks. 

Plains and the Mongolian Altay, , Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Endless Plains
We are sitting at a reasonable altitude here: high in the Mongolian Altay, nestled in that triangle of Mongolia between Russia and China. (iPhone6)

Deserted broken buildings on the lake Foreshore, Dund Lake, Mongolia

Dead Village
Our next stop is at the ruins of a deserted village. Derelict houses or factories sit at the foot of a gravel hill …

Rusty car wrecks on the lake Foreshore, Dund Lake, Mongolia

Wrecks on the Foreshore
… and rusted wrecks of cars and machinery lie on the foreshore of a lake – Dund Lake, I think.

Barbed Wire, Dund Lake, Mongolia

Barbed Wire

Rusty car wrecks on the lake Foreshore, Dund Lake, Mongolia

Rusted Vehicles
It’s as if the rusted bits have been blown against the wire fencing.

Rusty car wrecks and animal horns, Dund Lake, Mongolia

Rusted Refuse
The ground at our feet is littered with skeletal bits of animal and vehicle.

UAZ on the road to Ölgii, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

City in the Distance
Another hour on the roads, and the provincial capital of Ölgii (Ulgii) swims into view in the distance.

Mosque outside Ölgii, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Mosque outside the City
Bayan-Olgii is Mongolia’s only Kazakh-majority Muslim province, and is, therefore, culturally very different from the rest of the predominantly Buddhist country.

 Simple brick homes, Ölgii, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Houses outside the City
The late afternoon autumn sun lights up new houses on the outskirts of Ölgii.

Inside a Ger with a grass floor, Ölgii, Bayan-Ölgii Mongolia

Inside my Ger
Finally! I have my room for the next several nights – a large ger on a grassy field. Even with the bare bulb and the fire lit, it is dark: this photo is taken at ISO 25600 on 16 mm at f/2.8 and 1/60 sec, and it still needed boosting in Lightroom!

After a long day of bouncing in our vehicles, it was a relief to get out and explore the markets of Ölgii. The shops had a haphazard, “wild west” feel, but we were able to stock up on necessities, like wine, and blankets and warm socks. We also bought gifts for our host Kazakh family, whom we would finally meet the next day.

Is it possible that I was going to miss all that driving? For the first half of the night, the blazing fire in my wood-heater warmed my ger to sauna-like temperatures, and I slept in fevered dreams of bumping across rough roads …

Text: Happy TravelsUntil next time –

May your roads be smooth!

 

Pictures: 27Septembery2016

  • Gabe - March 1, 2018 - 10:48 am

    Bleak but also beautiful.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - March 2, 2018 - 12:46 am

      Thanks! Yes, it reminded me of living in The Prairies. 😀ReplyCancel

Seated Indian woman in a uniform, Amer Fort, Rajasthan

Guard in an Alcove
The security detail in Amer Fort – which is perched on a hill outside Rajasthan’s capital, Jaipur –  is ready with a smile for the visitor.

When I think of northern India, it is the incredible Rajput (Hindu) and Mughal (Islamic) architecture of Rajasthan that I remember: fortified walls and sandstone edifices climbing across hillsides; exquisite turrets floating in the hot, dusty air; delicate lattice work shielding windows and casting intricate shadow patterns in the cloistered rooms behind them.

But, I also think of the people: tall, elegant people with dark eyes and quick smiles; casually seated in corners or lounging in doorways – almost as if they are waiting for someone with a camera to notice how perfectly they compliment their surroundings. Without hesitation, they pose, or they hug the foreign tourist and lean in for a quick “selfie” with their new “friend”.

Amer (Amber) Fort, in Amber (or Amer – the spelling seems to be interchangeable!), the small town 11 kilometers from Jaipur which was Rajasthan’s capital until 1727, has both: magnificent architecture and people ready and willing to be photographed.

Built by Rajput prince Raja Man Singh in 1592 out of sandstone and marble on the site of an 11th century fort, this multi-layered enclosure of courtyards, palaces, halls, and gardens climbs up a hillside overlooking Maotha Lake. It is one of the six “Hill Forts of Rajasthan” designated on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2013 for their “testimony to the power of the Rajput princely states that flourished in the region from the 8th to the 18th centuries.”

When I visited the fort in 2013 as part of a Jim Cline Photo Tour with photographer Karl Grobl and local guide DV Singh, I had fond memories of my first trip there with my husband, some five years before.

It was as beautiful as I remembered.

Amer Fort from across Maotha Lake, Jaipur India

Amer Fort
From the other side of Maotha Lake, we can see the paths zig-zagging up the hill towards different fortress entry gates.

Hindu shrine opposite Amer Fort, Jaipur India

Hindu Shrine
You are never far from a Hindu shrine in India! This small one honouring Lord Brahma affords a view of the extensive fort on the hill.

Dil Aram Bagh at Amer Fort, Jaipur India

Dil Aram Bagh and Hillside Ruins
On the northern end of the lake, we will cross past the pergolas in the 18th century Dil Aaram Bagh garden.

Young Indian Women, Amer Jaipur, India

Young Women
A group of women who have finished their morning visit of the fort pause for a quick picture.

Indian man feeding the pigeons, Amer Fort, Jaipur India

Feeding the Birds
Our guide DV took a few minutes to feed the pigeons before we rounded the lake.

Amer Fort from across Maotha Lake, Jaipur India

Fort on the Lake

Indian man with a fresh Food Cart, Amer Fort, Jaipur India

Fresh Food Cart

Indian women on the Steps of Amer Fort, Jaipur India

Women on the Steps
On the steps, women in their colourful saris stop to rest and chat.

Indian woman in the ruins at the top of Amer Fort, Jaipur India

Woman in the Ruins
Near the ruins at the top of hill, I came across the incongruous sight of a woman in a beautiful sari searching through the rubble; I have no idea what she was hoping to find.

View over Amer from the fort, Jaipur India

View from the Hill
From the top, there are views back over town, and to the fortified walls that continue along the ridge of the hills in the distance.

Indian family group on the steps of Amer Fort, Jaipur India

Family on the Steps
At another rise in the stairs, a large group gathers for a rest.

Portrait of a young Indian girl with an orange drink, Amer Fort Jaipur, India

Angel-Face
The youngest member of the group was very excited with her orange soft drink. Nail polish and kohl or eyeliner is common on children in India.

Indian woman in security uniform on the steps, Amer Fort, Jaipur India

Security Guard
There is a visible security presence around the fort, …

Portrait: Indian woman in security uniform on the steps, Amer Fort, Jaipur India

Security Guard
… but the guards are all very friendly.

Amer Palace, Jaipur India

Ganesh Pol Entrance
The palace buildings are beautiful; this shot is an old one from my first visit in 2008.

Portrait: Indian woman inside Amer Fort, Jaipur India

Visitors to the Fort
Amer Fort is one of India’s most-visited forts; most of those visitors are from other parts of the country.

Portrait: Young Indian couple inside Amer Fort, Jaipur India

Visitors to the Fort
A young couple poses at a window overlooking the fortress turrets and hills behind.

Marble pillars in the Diwan-e-Aam, Amer Palace, Jaipur India

Marble Arches
A courtyard houses the Diwan-e-Aam (Hall of Public Audience) with its beautiful marble pillars.

Ornately painted entry, Amer Palace, Jaipur India

Ornate Entry
All the buildings around the various courtyards are intricately decorated.

The Diwan-e-Khas (Hall of Private Audiences), Amer Palace, Jaipur India

Mirrored Rooms
The Diwan-e-Khas (Hall of Private Audiences) is the best known part of the fort: …

Mirrored decorations, Hall of Private Audiences, Amer Palace, Jaipur India

Mirrored Wall Detail
… the elaborate decorations were crafted using glass imported from Belgium.

The Diwan-e-Khas (Hall of Private Audiences), Amer Palace, Jaipur India

“Mirrored” Sheesh Mahal

Turrets on the highest level, Amer Palace, Jaipur India

Domes on the Hill
The palace rises up four levels, each around a courtyard.

View through lattice over , Amer Palace, Jaipur India

Latticed Views
Ornate lattices look out over the upper courtyard and the hills behind.

Small handle on a heavy wooden door, Amer Palace, Jaipur India

Door Detail

Wall with painted vase carvings, Amer Palace, Jaipur India

Painted Wall Detail

Courtyard Garden, , Amer Palace, Jaipur India

Upper Courtyard Garden
There are new delights at every turn. 

Rooftop Rooms, Amer Palace, Jaipur India

Rooftop Rooms

Indian women at a shuttered window, Amer Palace, Jaipur India

Women in a Window

Three Indian men in guard

Guards at Ease

I never tired of wandering around these buildings, admiring the craftsmanship and the architecture, and taking impromptu portraits of people in the various nooks and crannies.

But, I had an appointed time to reconnect with my group, and we would be setting off to somewhere equally intriguing.

Sign-Off-Namaste

That’s the thing about India: every palace is more beautiful than the last, and every corner is another adventure.

Until next time, 

Namaste!

Pictures: 15November2013 

Large ship (TUI Allegra) on the Altenwörth Lock in Austria

Ships that Pass …
The locks on the Danube in Central Europe are an engineering marvel. 

Charlemagne (c.742-814), the medieval emperor who ruled much of Western Europe from 768 to 814, dreamed of traversing the European continent, from the North Sea to the Black Sea by water. All that was needed, in theory, was a trench around 3,000 metres (9,843 ft) long, connecting the Rhine River and the Danube.

In the absence of pumps, his medieval engineers faced problems with incessant rain, poor soil, and the consequential riverbank slippage. Remnants of the ponds and dams – attesting to the skills of medieval water engineers – can be seen today near the village of Graben in Bavaria, but no one is sure if the 2-metre (6.57 ft) deep ditch, now referred to as Charlemagne’s “Fossa Carolina”, was ever completed.

Napoleon Bonaparte “Napoleon I” (1769-1821) also hoped to connect the Main and Danube rivers, but met his Waterloo before he could implement any plans. King Ludwig I of Bavaria (1786-1868), inspired by canals in France and England, built a system of 101 canal locks – the Ludwig-Danube-Main Canal  – which operated from the mid-1800s until its damage during WW II and closure in 1950.

The current Rhine–Main–Danube Canal, connecting the Main and the Danube rivers across the European Watershed, was constructed – after a long and controversial planning process – from 1960 to 1992. It runs 172 kilometres (106.25 m) between Bamberg on the Main River and Kelheim on the Danube

Almost 20 percent of the €250,000,000 overall cost of canal construction went to environmental protection projects. So, it’s not surprising that I found it hard to recognise when we were on the canal, or on the Danube itself. What I did notice was the locks: there are 16 locks on the canal – 13 of which are designed to conserve water – with an elevation rise of 175 metres (574 ft), and drop of 68 metres (223 ft). The Danube end of the canal is 107.3 metres (352 ft) higher than the Main end. There are a further 18 locks on the Danube itself, each a part of a hydro-electric dam generating power. 

It is fascinating watching the whole lock-passage process. My husband and I were on one of the new boats that act as floating hotel rooms for tourists, travelling from Nuremberg (see: Altered views of History) to Budapest (see: Buda Castle Hill). With the exception of our cruise down the magnificent UNESCO-listed Wachau Valley (see: “Picturesque” Personified), much of our sailing happened over night, and we spent our days exploring charming cities and historical features (e.g.: Regensburg; Kelheim to Weltenburg; Passau; Melk; and Vienna). 

So, when we were transiting some of the many locks in daylight, we got out onto the boat-decks to watch with interest.

On the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal near Nuremberg lock

On the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal
As our canal-boat leaves Nuremburg, a lock comes into view.

Into a lock between Regensburg and Passau, Germany

Into the Lock
The door to the lock is open as our vessel approaches: use of the locks is carefully scheduled, and we have our appointed time. It is a quiet day: there is no one on the viewing platform. (iPhone5)

In a a lock between Regensburg and Passau, Germany

In the Lock
The locks are 12 metres (39.37 ft) wide, which limits the size of the boats on the waterways.

In a a lock between Regensburg and Passau, Germany

Wet Walls
The walls of the lock are so close we could touch them as our boat rises on the filling waters.

Out of a lock between Regensburg and Passau, Germany

On top of the Lock
Once the waters reach their new level, the gate opens and we cruise through to the next section of canal. (iPhone5)

The Continental Divide marker on the Main-Danube Canal, Germany.

Scheitelhaltung – The Continental Divide
Just before dinner time the same day, we passed the highest point on the Main-Danube Canal – 406 meters above sea level. The European Watershed or “Continental Divide” is marked by a concrete monument.

Boat on the Danube, Old Passau, Germany.

Passau
Two days later, we have left the canal far behind. While our boat is docked in Passau, we climb the 200 steps of the Oberhausleiten-Stiege – the Upper House Stairs – and watch the traffic on the Danube below. The waterways are important goods-transport channels.

Statue of writer Emerenz Meier and River-cruise boats, Danube, Passau

Statue of Bavarian Folk Poet Emerenz Meier (1874 – 1928), Danube River
Tourism is becoming more economically important, and the countless canal boats docked on the Danube in Passau are a testament to this.

Altenwörth Lock on the Danube, Austria

Altenwörth Lock
The Danube can be far from “blue”. The next afternoon – after cruising through the picturesque Wachou Valley we came back into the open on muddy-looking waters under an overcast sky. Downstream, the green light gave us the go-ahead at the approach to Altenwörth Lock, above Vienna.

Approaching Altenwörth Lock on the Danube, Austria

Altenwörth Lock
Altenwörth Lock is one of the many canal- and river-locks that have two chambers, allowing two boats to traverse at the same time. Our side of the lock is full of water already.

Altenwörth Lock Mechanism, Danube River, Austria

Altenwörth Lock Mechanism
As we get closer to the gate, we have a view of the mechanics which allows the gates to open and close.

Altenwörth Lock on the Danube, Austria

Altenwörth Lock
Once we are fully inside the lock, the doors will shut behind us, the valve will be opened, and water will be drained from the chamber.

Altenwörth Lock on the Danube, Austria

Altenwörth Lock
Another boat comes in behind us on the approach channel. 

Porthole in a passenger river boat on the Altenwörth Lock in Austria

Porthole in Ships that Pass …
Heading into the lock, we are so close to the TUI Allegra that we can see into her portholes. 

Radar and bridge atop a Viking Delling river boat

Reflections in the Radar
From the bow of the boat, we can look into the bridge – and back at our own reflections.

Captain Peter, Viking Delling river boat

Captain Peter
As we wait for our final go-ahead, our ship’s captain shows us around the pilot house.

Captain Peter, Viking Delling river boat bridge

Captain Peter in the Pilot House
There are plenty of bells and whistles, …

Viking Delling river boat bridge

Controls in the Pilot House
… knobs, handles and dials.

The Gates Open, Altenwörth Lock on the Danube, Austria

The Gates Open
The water-tight lock chamber seems to close in around us as our boat lowers on the ebbing water. Once we are level with the downstream waters, the giant gates open.

A river-boat captain Guiding a Boat out of Altenwörth Lock on the Danube, Austria

Guiding the Boat out of the Lock
Our radar is no use to us here! Once the doors are fully open, Captain Peter has no more time to chat. He monitors the vessel’s progress closely as we exit the narrow lock.

Captain Peter, Viking Delling river boat bow

Captain Peter
When we are clear of the lock doors and heading towards the open Danube, our captain relaxes.

TUI Allegra exiting the Altenwörth Lock in Austria

Exiting the Lock
Behind us, the TUI Allegra exits the Altenwörth Lock.

I loved the old European cities we visited, and the views of the villages and landscapes as we glided down the canal and river.

Text: Safe SailingBut, I also found traversing the locks a fascinating insight into the mechanisms of a busy, working waterway.

Until next time, 

Safe Sailing!

Photos: 17-20August2014

  • Gabe - February 15, 2018 - 10:55 am

    A river cruise that should be on everyone’s bucket list.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - February 15, 2018 - 11:29 am

      It was certainly a wonderful experience! 😀ReplyCancel

  • Mary - July 16, 2018 - 1:56 pm

    I have just completed my first river cruise. Why did I wait so long to experience an awesome holiday. Mary 16th July 2018ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - July 16, 2018 - 11:13 pm

      Enriching and relaxing at the same time, isn’t it, Mary. We loved it.ReplyCancel

  • Mary - July 17, 2019 - 12:01 am

    Have just read your wonderful blog on locks. I did the Danube last year, and yes, why did I wait so long to do a river cruise. I must do another.ReplyCancel

  • Douglas Meyer - May 4, 2021 - 12:06 am

    Thanks for the nice pictoral view of the trip. We hope to take the Budapest-North Sea Donau/Main/Rhein tour in 2022 if/when COVID/variants are no longer an existential danger to all of the planet’s inhabitants.

    Nice job indeed. I see now in the footings of this pate that you and I have planted footsteps on many of the same continents. I will read more later. I was only attracted initially to this blog because of this entry and our current registration for a “Viking Cruise”.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - May 4, 2021 - 3:05 am

      Hi Douglas,
      Thanks for your visit and kind words.
      I don’t think you will be disappointed! I can’t praise Viking highly enough; even before Covid, their food service and hygiene standards were top-notch. The river cruises are a great way to get an overview of an area.
      Cheers, UrsulaReplyCancel