Portrait of a singer from Narasirato, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Narasirato
They commanded the stage wearing bark cloth and paint and sporting decorations made from shells and pigs’ teeth; they won the audience over with their joyful voices, bamboo pipes, log drums and infectious rhythms. The men of Narasirato – from a remote Solomon’s island – are the ultimate expression of Indigenous World Music.

“Music is the universal language of mankind.”

– Henry Wadsworth Longfellow

 (Track: NarasiratoRoromera Dub Manasseh Remix)

It doesn’t matter how remote from our experience people’s lives are: when they start to make music, we have an understanding of how they are feeling, and clues as to what they want to express. It is indeed, a form of universal language.

If we are disinclined to take a 19th century poet’s word for it, we can look to a recently published Harvard study: Form and Function in Human Song, which found that listeners could recognise the social function of song snippets, even from small-scale societies that were foreign to them.

Certainly, I had no difficulty connecting with the music I got to enjoy at this year’s Boomerang Festival. Billed as “a New World Indigenous festival for all Australians”, the three-day festival was nested within the five-day Byron Bay Bluesfest. In addition to arts, talks and workshops, this year’s festival featured local Indigenous performers and other musicians from the Asia – Pacific region.

Aboriginal men dancing with spears, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Welcome to Country
Traditional dances performed by young Aboriginal men help us all recognise the roots of the land we are standing on.

Bird of Paradise feathers adorn the headless of a Papuan drummer from Sorong Samarai, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Sorong Samarai
After visiting Papua New Guinea late last year, I was keen to check out Sorong Samarai, a group of musical activists from across the island of New Guinea. The name comes from the eponymous West Papua protest song that seeks to unite the two halves of the island under a self-determined government. Sorong is a town at the island’s most north-western edge and Samarai is an island off the southernmost tip.

Bird of Paradise feathers adorn the headless of a Papuan flute player from Sorong Samarai, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Sam Roem in Bird of Paradise Feathers
Sam Roem travelled from West Papua to Australia in a traditional wooden dugout canoe in 2006 to seek asylum. West Papua was incorporated into Indonesia in 1969, and since that time, pro-independance supporters are frequently jailed.

Men rapping, Sorong Samarai, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Sorong Samarai Rap
Rap has become a powerful – and engaging – voice in Indigenous protest movements all around the world.

Sprigga Mek rapping, Sorong Samarai, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Sprigga Mek – Sorong Samarai
Native Kanaka hip-hop artist Sprigga Mek from Port Moresby raps in a number of different languages.

Bird of Paradise feathers adorn the headless of a Papuan drummer from Sorong Samarai, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Sorong Samarai Drums
Bamboo and log drums keep up the pace and rhythm.

Man rapping, Sorong Samarai, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Sorong Samarai Rap

Portrait of a singer from Narasirato, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Narasirato
The men in the bamboo orchestra of Narasirato list their interests as: “fishing, farming, feasting and family.”

Men of Narasirato on Bamboo Flutes, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Narasirato on Bamboo Flutes
From a small village in the rainforest on Malaita in the Solomon Islands, the band has performed as far afield as Japan and at Glastonbury, where, true to their name – Narasirato means ‘cry for sunshine’ – they stopped the English rains.

Men of Narasirato on drums, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Narasirato
They perform songs that praise nature, revere ancestors and reflect on contemporary issues.

Yirrmal on guitar, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Yirrmal
Yirrmal Marika, a young Yolngu man from the community of Yirrkala, Arnhem Land in Northern Australia, comes across as a gentle soul.

Yirrmal on guitar, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Yirrmal
Using a mix of English and Aboriginal languages, and combining traditional and contemporary musical styles, Yirrmal was originally inspired by his famous musical grandfather, Dr Yunupingu.

Horns with The Strides, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Horns with The Strides
Jeremy Rose on tenor sax and Nick Garbett on trumpet warm up the room in preparation for the rest of their reggae band.

Front-men with The Strides, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

The Strides
No strangers to the “festival” scene, the Sydney-based nine-piece ensemble “The Strides”  is truly a multi-cultural organisation.

Ras Roni with The Strides, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Ras Roni and The Strides
Front-man, reggae master Ras Roni, comes to Sydney from Barbados via London.

Eddie “Blacker” Conteh and The Strides, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Eddie “Blacker” Conteh and The Strides
Ragga man Eddie “Blacker C” Conteh is originally from Sierra Leon.

Ltl Gzeus and The StridesLtl Gzeus and The Strides

Ltl Gzeus and The Strides
Emcee Ltl Gzeus has Fijian/Tongan/Chinese roots.

Ras Roni with The Strides, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Ras Roni with The Strides
Clearly music keeps you young: look at that twinkle!

Benny Walker, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Benny Walker
Sporting a tattoo honouring iconic Indigenous Australian singer songwriter Archie Roach, Benny Walker, a young Yorta Yorta man from Echuca, charmed the audience with his songs of sunshine.

Benny Walker, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Benny Walker

Sorong Samarai, , Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Sorong Samarai
On the final afternoon of the 2018 Boomerang Festival, Sorong Samarai took to the outdoor dance space …

Sorong Samarai, Boomerang Festival 2018, Byron Bay AU

Sorong Samarai
… with their messages of political resistance.

Text: To the Music

Strong messages –

delivered with passion and enthusiasm, and made more palatable by the accompaniment of great music.

Until next time!

Pictures: 30March-1April2018

Sadhus sitting against a yellow wall, Rishikesh, India

Sadhus in Rishikesh
Sādhu – or “Good Men” – are emblematic of India. While they can be seen everywhere, they congregate in holy cities like Rishikesh.

Rishikesh!

For me, that is a name that conjures up the sound of sitars, images of pastel-coloured Hindu Gods, and memories of songs from the Beatles’ post-hallucinogenic phase.

Can you believe it? It was 50 years ago, this February-past, that the Beatles followed their guru – their teacher – Maharishi Mahesh Yogi to his ashram in Rishikesh. With an entourage that included wives, girlfriends and selected reporters, the Fab Four joined students from all around the world – including singer-songwriter Donovan and actress Mia Farrow in an advanced course in the Maharishi’s techniques of Transcendental Meditation.

For the Beatles, the visit to Rishikesh marked their break from hallucinogenic drugs in favour of Indian spirituality and meditation practice. It was a period of great productivity for the band, but was also the beginning of the end – as each member of the group spent time honing his own individual artistic vision.

My visit to this north-Indian city in the Himalayan foothills beside the Ganges River was much more prosaic: I was with photographer Karl Grobl, local guide DV Singh, and a small group of photography-enthusiasts. We had a few afternoon-hours to walk around Swarg Ashram: the traffic-free, alcohol-free and meat-free enclave of temples and ashrams across the famous iron suspension bridges of Ram Jhula and Laxman Jhula from Rishikesh town-proper.

True to my expectations, the air was full of heat and dust, the smell of incense and cattle dung, and the sounds of chanting and sitar music. The streets were lined with shops and shrines and crowded with monkeys, beggars, and mystics.

Come for a walk with me in Rishikesh!

Shiva statue from the road, Haridwar India

Shiva on the Road
As we leave Haridwar for the short drive upstream along the Ganges to Rishikesh, a giant statue of the Lord Shiva watches over us.

Hindu man in red face paint and silver headdress, Rishikesh India

Devotee in the Street
It is not uncommon to find Hindu devotees walking around the streets painted to represent one of the many Gods in their extensive pantheon.

Hindu man in red face paint and silver headdress, Rishikesh India

Dressed as a Hindu God
The colour and the facial hair made me think this might be Hanuman, but other features don’t match so I really don’t know. Either way, he was happy to be photographed!

Man blowing into a didgeridoo, Rishikesh India

Didgeridoos
I was surprised to see didgeridoos on sale at a local music store.

Crowded bookstore, Rishikesh India

The Bookstore
This bookshop was cram packed, with many offerings in English and other languages for visitors.

Plaster relief of a deity in an alcove, Rishikesh India

Every Nook and Cranny
Wherever you look, statues, paintings, or other depictions of deities are nestled into every space.

Portrait of a sadhu with a red tilaka stripe, Rishikesh India

Sādhu
Sadhus are nomadic religious ascetics who have taken vows of chastity and poverty. The ash used in their face paint is sometimes from sacred fires, and is symbolic of their “death” from a worldly life.

View across Laxman Jhula, Rishikesh India

Laxman Jhula
The Laxman (Lakshman) Jhula, about 5 kilometres upstream from Rishikesh, is one of two almost-indistinguishable iron suspension bridges across the Ganges to Swarg Ashram where many of Rishikesh’s yoga and meditation centres are located.

View over Trayambakeshwar from Laxman Jhula, Rishikesh India

Trayambakeshwar from Laxman Jhula
The views from the bridge are wonderful. Trayambakeshwar Temple to the left, is a magnificent 13-story building dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Indian couple posing for a photo, Laxman Jhula, Rishikesh India

An Indian Couple
Visitors make sure they have their pictures taken as they cross the iconic landmark.

Portrait of a Woman on Laxman Jhula, Rishikesh, India

Woman on Laxman Jhula
Many are happy for me to take their pictures as well.

Portrait of two Women on Laxman Jhula, Rishikesh, India

Women on Laxman Jhula

Statue of a seated Shiva in a Fountain, Rishikesh India

Lord Shiva in the Fountain
According to stories, Shiva the Destroyer (who is one of the Hindu trinity) used to wander as a naked sage, which was somewhat distracting to the wives of several forest-dwelling rishis (hermits). The tiger skin he is often seen with is both a symbol of his animal power (and power over animals) and a means of reducing his distracting magnetism.

Portrait of an old Indian man, Rishikesh

Old Man in the Street

Shop window of brass and stone religious Icons, RIshikesh India

Window of Icons
All manner of religious iconography can be found in the shop windows.

Young women selling papadum in the street, Rishikesh India

Selling Papadum
You are never far from food!

Portrait of a young women in the street, Rishikesh India

The Papadum Seller
This young woman was so beautiful and had such a lovely smile; I couldn’t help but wonder what her life was like – and what it would have been like if she had been born somewhere else.

Young macaque on the grass, Rishikesh India

Baby Macaque
Small groups of macaques were on the lookout for opportunistic snacks.

Sadhus and Beggers, Rishikesh India

Sadhus and Beggers
Sadhus and beggars find shady spots to sit or squat with their bowls or hands out.

Two old women begging, Rishikesh India

Beggars

Small marble Brahmā figure in a Niche in a tree, Rishikesh India

Brahmā in a Niche

Man in Chotiwala costume sitting in front of a restaurant, in Swargashram, Rishikesh India

The Chotiwala
For me, one of the most surprising characters in Swarg Ashram was the Chotiwala. Choti is Hindi for a tuft of hair kept at the back of the head that is never cut for religious reasons, so a ‘Chotiwala’ is a ‘Braided Man’. In heavy makeup, the Chotiwala sits in front of the restaurant of the same name, greeting people and ringing the bell over his head.

Portrait of a man in Chotiwala costume sitting in front of a restaurant, in Swargashram, Rishikesh India

Chotiwala
Actually, there are two Chotiwala and two Chotiwala Restaurants; they are next door to each other in this small, dark alley in Swarg Ashram. When the original owner died in 1990 and left the business to two sons, they could not get along. So, they split the property down the middle and both operated as if they were the only one. This dispute – and the two painted men sitting on stools smiling and ringing their bells within feet of each other – continues to this day.
So much for the peace and goodwill to be found in a community of gurus, yogis, and meditators!

Figures of gods inside a temple in Swargashram, Rishikesh India

Home of the Gods

Ram Jhula Bridge, Rishikesh India

Ram Jhula Bridge
We cross back over the Ganges via the newer suspension bridge – along with pedestrians of all kinds and the odd motorcycle.

Cobras and Hindu Religious figurines, Rishikesh India

Cobras and the Rest
Religious figurines, pendants and various trinkets are laid out to tempt us at the other side.

ॐ - Om symbols in bracelets on a market table, Rishikesh India

ॐ – Om
The sacred syllable Om – is everywhere around us; sometimes called the “cosmic sound”, it is a spiritual icon in Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, and Sikhism.

A group on a runner raft on the Ganges, Rishikesh India

Rafting on the Ganges
Giving rise to concerns about environmental protection, more tourists are coming to Rishikesh for trekking and rafting. Because the rafting camps are temporary and poorly regulated, they do not have adequate sewage and sanitation infrastructure, causing pollution. And, because the clientele are not there for yoga or meditation, they drink, take drugs, and disturb the tranquility of the forest and the spirituality of the river.

Two men swimming on the Ganges, Rishikesh India

Water Sport on the Ganges
I was amazed when I saw people swimming; these waters originate higher up, in the hills, mountains and glaciers of the Himalaya.

How I would have loved to escape into one of the many yoga ashrams for a long course of study!

I came away from Rishikesh with mere baubles of bright impressions. A full appreciation of this holy centre of yoga- and meditation-study would take much more time.

Maybe one day!

Until then – Om!

Photos: 19November2013

  • Gabe - May 17, 2018 - 10:33 pm

    Beautiful & filled with colourReplyCancel

Evening on Ballet Bay, Nelson Island BC

Evening on Ballet Bay
As we worked our way up British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast, we stopped in for a peaceful overnight anchorage in Ballet Bay, on the north side of Nelson Island.

“Cruising has two pleasures. One is to go out in wider waters from a sheltered place. The other is to go into a sheltered place from wider waters.”

– Howard Bloomfield

I’m not sure which I enjoy more: whipping across windy waters with our 38-foot Graystone on a comfortable low-heel, or being safely anchored or tied-up in one of the glorious spots available to us either side of British Columbia’s Strait of Georgia.

Being somewhat unskilled sailors, my husband and I like to err on the side of caution. When heading into new (for us) waters, we try to check the charts, the cruising guides, and our sailing mentors. We also err on the side of laziness: if our sailing mentors suggest we follow in their wakes, we jump at the chance of not having to do all the thinking ourselves!

And so it was, in beautiful late-June weather, we set out behind our friends’ 32-foot Catalina, Alaunia, to visit harbours and bays new to us, but familiar to them, on the northern end of the Sunshine Coast of southwestern British Columbia

It was our third morning on the water: after crossing the Strait from our home-berth of Nanaimo, and overnighting in Hospital Bay, Pender Harbour and in Ballet Bay on Nelson Island (see: Strait Sailing Part 1), we had our headings set for Cortes Island at the upper limits of the Strait of Georgia. Even when the winds didn’t blow or when the rains fell, the coastal and island beauty we passed was breathtaking.

Join us for a motor-sail north into BC waters:

Sailboat motoring out of Ballet Bay, BC

Alaunia leaving Ballet Bay
Early in the morning, we follow Alaunia as she motors gently out of Ballet Bay, …

Motor cruiser on Ballet Bay, BC

Boat on Ballet Bay
… past anchored cruisers and sleeping houses, …

Sailboat motoring into Malaspina Strait, BC

Alaunia
… and into Malaspina Strait.

Sliammon Lands signboard - Lund, BC

Sliammon Lands – Lund
We stopped into Lund, a small hamlet towards the northern-most end of BC’s Sunshine Coast Highway, for lunch and supplies. The traditional home of the Coast Salish people, this area has been inhabited for thousands of years.

Lund Hotel, BC Canada

Lund Hotel
We loved the charming village so much that we stopped in again on our way back home by sailboat, and once more, when we were making our trip back to the mainland by land (i.e.: by highway and BC Ferries).

Wooden Watermill in Lund, BC

Lund Watermill
The settlement was named for the city of Lund in Sweden by the Thulin brothers, who settled here from Sweden in 1889.

Lund Harbour, BC Canada

Lund Harbour
Today, this unincorporated village provides safe harbour to small crafts, and is home to many shops and services catering to tourists and outdoor adventurers.

Stone Steps at Lund, BC Canada

Stone Steps at Nancy’s Bakery
Nancy’s Bakery is a favourite for locals and tourists alike; we enjoyed our freshly-baked lunch in the sun before continuing north.

Gray skies over Desolation Sound, BC Canada

Into Desolation Sound
As we turn northeast towards Desolation Sound, the weather closes in. The bleak, overcast weather that greeted Captain Vancouver when he first explored this area in 1792 led to him giving it its name:
“Our residence here was truly forelorn; an awful silence pervaded the gloomy forests, whilst animated nature seemed to have deserted the neighbouring country, whose soil afforded only a few small onions, some samphire and here and there bushes bearing a scanty crop of indifferent berries. Nor was the sea more favourable to our wants, the steep rocky shores prevented the use of the seine, and not a fish at the bottom could be tempted to take the hook.”
Captain George Vancouver

Rain on the cockpit enclosure of a sailboat, Strait of Georgia, BC Canada

Rain on the Strait
Fortunately for us, there is diesel in the tank, and our wet-weather gear is handy: inclement weather will not dull our enjoyment of a day on the water!

Rain on the cockpit enclosure of a sailboat, Strait of Georgia, BC Canada

“There is no bad weather, only inappropriate clothing.”
― Ranulph Fiennes

A sailboat o the Strait of Georgia with mountains behind, BC Canada

Mountains all Around
(Three days later, as we are returning south, the Sound shows us how stunningly beautiful it can be …

Islet in the Strait of Georgia, BC Canada

Islets in the Strait of Georgia
… under blue skies in good weather.)

Sailboat motoring into Desolation Sound, BC Canada

In Alaunia’s Wake
On our trip north, however, we are still under motor as we turn right into Desolation Sound …

Motor boat in Desolation Sound, BC Canada

Boat on Desolation Sound
… and motor past the other leisure boats and towards Squirrel Cove.

Seasonal BC Prawns on a white boat deck.

Seasonal Prawns
Once we are safely anchored in Squirrel Cove, we pull out the fresh prawns we bought straight off a fishing boat in Lund. They make a tasty addition to a simple dinner!

Dinghy on Squirrel Cove, BC Canada

Dinghy on Squirrel Cove
In the morning, we – like other visitors – have time to get the dinghies out.

Motor boat anchored on Squirrel Cove, BC Canada

“Nexus”
We sneak past boats at anchor …

Rocky Stream into Squirrel Cove, Cortes Island BC Canada

Stream into Squirrel Cove
… to explore the foreshore of the bay … 

Rocky Stream into Squirrel Cove, Cortes Island BC Canada

Mossy Rocks
… where cool waters tumble over the mossy rocks.

Purple Starfish on the green moss, creek, Squirrel Cove, Cortes Island BC Canada

Starfish on the Moss
Starfish are attached all over the shallow bottom, …

Purple Starfish under water, creek, Squirrel Cove, Cortes Island BC Canada

Waters on Squirrel Cove
… clinging to the rocks in the fast-moving waters.

Rocky Stream into Squirrel Cove, Cortes Island BC Canada

Stream into Squirrel Cove

Two large Motor Cruisers on Squirrel Cove, Cortes Island BC Canada

Motor Cruisers on Squirrel Cove
Somebody always has a bigger boat!

Squirrel Cove community, Cortes Island, BC Canada

Squirrel Cove
Cortes Island is all First Nation territory; the little community of Squirrel Cove includes a trading post and a Christian church.

We watch Squirrel Cove slip into the background as we head across the waters into the Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park.

Text: Safe Sailing

More about that some other time –

Until then, 

Safe Sailing!

Pictures: 24-25June2015 and 03-04July2015

Red Bernina Express train in Alp Grum Station, Switzerland

Bernina Express Train in Alp Grüm Station
Alp Grüm (2,091 m) is the first station south of the Swiss Alps. The sleek Bernina Express trains stop here briefly after (or before) crossing through the Bernina Pass.

Riding the rails is magic!

I love travelling on trains – all trains. There is something special about the rhythmic rattling as you hurtle through a landscape, being both part of the countryside and cocooned from it.

How much more special is the rail experience when you are on a first-class scenic express train, travelling across an engineering marvel, through a UNESCO-World Heritage Listed landscape? The network of privately owned and operated Rhaetian Railway (RhB) lines in the Albula/Bernina area of Switzerland earned a UNESCO listing in 2008 because: “It constitutes an outstanding technical, architectural and environmental ensemble and embodies architectural and civil engineering achievements, in harmony with the landscapes through which [they] pass.”

The Bernina Express is a direct train from Chur in Switzerland, through the Swiss Alps, to Tirano in Italy. From Chur (585 m), the line climbs to an altitude of 2253 metres on the Bernina Pass, before dropping back down to 429 metres at Tirano; this requires countless spiral loops, 55 tunnels and 196 bridges – all build between 1898 and 1910.

My husband and I and our Swiss travelling companions broke our journey in Poschiavo to meet up with family friends. Join us for the first portion of our Bernina Express railway adventure.

Sunrise over railway tracks, Pfäffikon Switzerland.

Morning Rails
We had to get up early to meet our RegionalExpress service from Pfäffikon to Chur, where we would join the Bernina Express.

The inside a Bernina Express rail carriage, Switzerland

Inside the Bernina
The rail carriages are modern and spacious.

Sunburst Sun rising over the mountains near Chur, Switzerland

Rising Sun
As we start off south, the sun rises over the mountains near Chur.

Church on a Hill, canton of Graubünden Switzerland

Church on a Hill
The view from our moving window is impossibly picturesque.

The Tail of the Train over a viaduct, Bernina Express Switzerland

The Tail of the Train
The morning light glints off the trees and makes reflections in the train windows as we watch our tail follow us around one of the many limestone viaducts.

Layered reflections inside a Bernina Express - Trees in the Train carriage, Switzerland.

Almost Abstract – Trees in the Train

Tourists on the platform of Tiefencastel Station, Switzerland

Tiefencastel Station (884 m)
There are a few small stations on the Albula Railway line from Chur to St. Moritz; we stop in Tiefencastel to pick up a tourist group.

Male Conductor checking tickets on the Bernina Express, Switzerland

The Conductor

Reflections of the Bernina Express as it crosses the Landwasser Viaduct, Switzerland.

Almost Abstract – Impossible Bridges
We watch the front of of our train head towards the tunnel on the mountain opposite us. The natural dolomite lime pillars of the Landwasser Viaduct in Graubünden stretch across 142 meters, 65 metres above the rugged Landwasser Valley below. This impressive structure was built between 1901 and 1902, and constructed so well that the first renovations were not performed until 2009.

Bergün, Alpine meadow village, Graubünden Switzerland

“How Green is my Village?”
We come out of the tunnel and drop down to Bergün, a charming town set in impossibly green mountain meadows. This is the town that made international headlines in 2017 when it voted to ban tourist photography because it is “Too beautiful!”, and people seeing the pictures on social media would be jealous and unhappy. Not everyone appreciated the joke, but it certainly generated lots of free publicity!

Bernina stuffed Mountain Goat, Switzerland

Bernina Mountain Goat
I am a Capricorn: I couldn’t resist buying myself an official Bernina mountain goat.

Alpine meadow and mountain backdrop from the Bernina Express, Engadin CH

Scene from the Train
Meanwhile, the beautiful alpine meadows continue to roll past our windows.

Houses in an Engadin alpine meadow, Switzerland

In the Shadow of the Mountains
It is hard to imagine a more sublime location for ordinary housing.

Pontresina and the Inn River from the Bernina Express, Switzerland

Inn River Valley
The mountain village of Pontresina, flanked by the Bernina Massif, is popular for hiking, biking, glacier walks and spa retreats. It is a stone’s throw from the luxury resort town of St. Moritz.

Reflections in the window fittings of the Bernina Express, Switzerland

Almost Abstract – “Selfie” Inside the Bernina

Roadway and mountains in the Bernina Pass, Switzerland

Bernina Pass
Like the road beside us, we climb up again, …

Train in the Bernina Pass
… across the Bernina Pass and towards Ospizio Bernina (2,253 m), the highest station on our route.

Lej Pitschen - Bernina Pass

Lej Pitschen (“Small Lake”) – Bernina Pass

People walking, Bernina Pass, Switzerland

Walking Paths
Well-marked trails lead from Ospizio Bernina station past the tiny Lej Nair,

Lago Bianco - Bernina Pass, Switzerland

Lago Bianco
… along Lago Bianco (“White Lake”), and on to Alp Grüm. You can just see the dam at the other end of the glacial waters; water on this side flows back to the Inn River and empties into the Black Sea, while the water on the other side flows toward the Adriatic.

Train in Alp Grüm Station, Bernina Pass, Switzerland

Alp Grüm Station
We had a chance to alight from the train at the southern-most end of the Bernina Pass: Alp Grüm Station. This marks the southern border of the Romansh speaking part of the country; we will soon be in Italian-speaking territory.

Trains at Alp Grum Station, Bernina Pass, Switzerland

Trains at Alp Grum Station
As high as we are (2,091 m) already, the mountains rise steeply around us.

Trains at Alp Grum Station, Bernina Pass, Switzerland

Dreams of Snow-Dusted Alpine Peaks

Alpine Meadow, Alp Grüm, Bernina Pass Swizerland

Alpine Meadow
Alp Grüm means “Alpine Garden”, which is a pretty accurate description of our beautiful surrounds.

View from Alp Grüm, Bernina Pass Swizerland

View from Alp Grüm

Lago Palü from Alp Grüm, Bernina Pass Swizerland

Lago Palü
We have wonderful views over Lake Palü and towards the Vadret da Palü – the Palü Glacier – behind it.

Bernina Express train in the trees, south of Alp Grum Switzerland

Trains in the Trees
Too soon we are back on the train, as it follows countless curves through the tall trees to descend into the Poschiavo Valley.

Bernina Express train passing, Switzerland.

Trains that Pass
We pass trains heading up hill; the Bernina Express trains run a full schedule in summer.

Poschiavo Valley, Switzerland

Village in a Valley
We drop into the Poschiavo Valley, where lunch and a whole other adventure awaits us.

Riding the Bernina Express through the Swiss Alps is an unbeatable experience. Our jaws were still dropped as we got off the train in Poschiavo where we would overnight before picking up the train again the next day for the last portion of the trip.

Text: Happy TravelsWatch this space!

Until next time,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 06August2014

Poppies in bloom, with sailboat masts in the background, Garden Bay Pended Harbour BC

Poppies on on Garden Bay
Under an impossibly blue summer sky, boats sit in the protected waters of Hospital Bay, BC.

“Any fool can carry on, but a wise man knows how to shorten sail in time.”

– Joseph Conrad

I’m not a great sailor: my favourite part of sailing is making a safe landfall.

This is especially true when the landfall is somewhere new and different, and when the sailing has been a bit fraught!

But, I do love being on the water, and I do love visiting new ports. (I have quoted Brooks Atkinson before: “Land was created to provide a place for boats to visit,” (see: On the Straits and Narrows).) So, when people who know the British Columbia waters around where our boat Graystone lives, suggest a trip in tandem, I jump at the opportunity.

Our friends and their 32-foot Catalina, Alaunia, were planning to head into the magnificent, but grimly named, Desolation Sound for several weeks of summer cruising. We didn’t have enough time for the whole trip, but organised to piggy-back on the first legs northeast from our home-base of Nanaimo into the Sound. My husband and I would then return home alone, while our companions continued deeper into the wild northern waters.

Our Graystone is a modest, gracefully-ageing 38-foot Hughes sailing sloop. Unlike our friends’ boat, the galley doesn’t run to overhead wine racks and a microwave oven, but she’s comfortable enough – provided I organise simple meals that can be prepared on two burners in minimal space. The beauty of travelling with another boat is that the planning – charting for landfalls, moorages, and anchor-spots – is reduced, and the preparation is almost halved: if we took turns making dinner, I’d only have to cook half as often.

Although we keep all the requisite charts on board, in this day and age of GPS’s, my husband and I both get a little haphazard with our map-reading. We rely (rather more heavily than we should) on the expertise of our friends, and then I turn to my Dreamspeaker Guides – delightfully illustrated cruising books – for detailed advice and information on our planned destinations. 

Usually it works – and barring a few bumps or tears or bruises, we eventually make a safe harbour in one of the many glorious spots available to us along the Strait of Georgia.

Catalina sailboat under motor on the Strait of Georgia, BC

Alaunia on the Strait of Georgia
The Strait of Georgia, between Vancouver Island and the mainland of British Columbia, provides endless sailing and cruising opportunities. When we first set out from Nanaimo behind our cruising companions in their Catalina, the winds were too light for sails.

Man in a hat helming a Saiboat, Strait of Georgia BC

Setting Course
Before long, however, I have the sails up, and we are whipping across the Strait under wind-power. 

Wreck of a tugboat at the entrance to Pender Harbour, BC

Wreck on the Harbour
Some six hours later, we finally limped into the protection of Pender Harbour. Contrary to Joe Conrad’s advice (above), we had not shortened the sails in time! We had also lost sight of our companions, missed our landmarks, and overshot the harbour entrance considerably in rough winds. As I said, we are not particularly good sailors.
Fortunately, thanks to mobile phone reception, we found our way back, and unlike this wrecked tugboat at the harbour entrance, we had only minor damage to our sails, which I mended before dinner.

Boats at Fishermans Marina, Hospital Bay, Pender Harbour BC

Hospital Bay
It’s still light at eight o’clock on a northern summer evening: we’ve told our tale and shared a meal. Our afternoon squall is soon forgotten, as the warming sun …

Fishermans Marina, Hospital Bay, Pender Harbour BC

Fisherman’s Marina
… and quiet waters of Hospital Bay in Pender Harbour sooth our ruffled feathers.

Sunset over the sailboats on Fisherman

Sunset on Fisherman’s Marina
There is nothing quite as peaceful as watching the sun set from the deck of a boat that is safely moored!

Morning on Fisherman

Morning on Fisherman’s Marina
The sun rises early on the water; …

Fisherman

Fisherman’s Marina
… we take the opportunity to walk up through Fisherman’s Resort and Marina (now known as “John Henry’s”)

LaVerne

LaVerne’s Grill
… and into the Garden Bay area of Pender Harbour.

Poppies on on Garden Bay, Pender Harbour BC.

Poppies on Garden Bay
On the hill, the poppies are starting to bloom, …

Garden Bay, Pender Harbour BC.

Garden Bay
… and quiet waters lie below.

Sailboat under motor, N3N bi-plane docked, Pended Harbour BC

No Wake!
Late in the morning, we motored gently out of Pender Harbour behind Alaunia, …

U.S. Navy 1942 N3N Bi-Plane, Pender Harbour, BC

N3N Bi-Plane
… pausing to admire the bright yellow N3N bi-plane that – until a day after our trip – lived for twenty-five years on these waters.

U.S. Navy 1942 N3N Bi-Plane, Pender Harbour, BC

N3N Bi-Plane
A rare model equipped to land on water, this N3N was originally built in 1942 as a training plane by the U.S. Navy. It was bought by Bill and Wilma Thompson in 1990, and lovingly renovated and flown around Pender Harbour by Bill until his death. Before our visit, the plane had been sold to an operator in Yellowknife NWT, and it made its last flight out of here the very next day (see: The Coast Reporter).

Moss-covered rock at the entrance to the green waters of Ballet Bay, Nelson Island, BC

Ballet Bay
The winds north of Pender Harbour were much more forgiving than they had been the day before, and we managed a smooth and uneventful trip up the rest of the scenic Sunshine Coast, past the opening to Agamemnon Channel, and around to the protected north side of Nelson Island into the pristine and quiet Ballet Bay.

Two sailboats anchored on Ballet Bay, BC

Our Boats on Ballet Bay
With our boats securely anchored, we have plenty of time in the early afternoon to explore the bay in our dinghies.

Dinghy on Ballet Bay, BC

Dinghy on Ballet Bay
It would be almost a crime to break the peacefulness of the bay with a motor; the splash of the oars, on the other hand, just adds to the feeling of calm.

Green waters around the Rocky Foreshore of Ballet Bay, BC

Rocky Foreshore – Ballet Bay
The water is crystal clear, and changes colour dramatically in the afternoon light.

Kayaks on Ballet Bay, BC after dark.

Kayaks on Ballet Bay
As the sun goes down over Nelson Island, people take their kayaks out onto the quiet waters …

Evening on Ballet Bay, Nelson Island BC

Evening on Ballet Bay
… and enjoy one of the prettiest bays you could hope for.

What a beautiful spot! And what a great place to enjoy a quite drink after a successful two days on the water before continuing north …

Text: Safe Sailing

Until next time,

Safe sailing!

Photos: 22-23June2015

  • Tony Dobson - April 28, 2018 - 2:07 pm

    Beautiful details and pictures of your voyage! For some reason, I hadn’t seen this posting before!ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - April 28, 2018 - 4:07 pm

      Hi Tony,
      Thanks for your visit. The pictures might be old but the post is new, which is why you hadn’t seen it. It always takes me a while to get back to all my photo file!
      All the best to you guys! U xReplyCancel