View over Santa Bárbara Castle, Mount Benacantil, and Alicante, Spain

Castillo de Santa Bárbara on Mount Benacantil
Commanding the skyline over the Spanish port city of Alicante, the ancient Santa Bárbara Castle is well worth exploring.

It is no wonder that northern Europeans flock to the south coast of Spain in droves!

Cheap, delicious food; blue skies and a wonderful temperate Mediterranean climate; and history and culture around every corner: my husband and I became as infatuated with Spain’s Costa Blanca (White Coast) as any other tourists.  

Our visit in mid-May last year was before the height of the European tourist season, so the region was much less crowded than it would be later in the summer. We were staying at the Valencian seaside resort town of Albir (see: Walking to El Faro). We had booked ourselves onto a boat trip down the picturesque coast from the waterfront city of Benidorm to the tiny islet of Tabarca (see: Mediterranean Blues and History). On the return trip north, the boat pulled into the port city Alicante, and we had a couple of hours to explore. After a quick look through the “Things to Do”, we decided on the half-hour walk to the elevator that would take us up to the 9th-century Muslim castle that sits high on a hill, dominating the city.

One of the things I love most about Europe is the layers of history embedded in every nook and cranny. The original Moorish castle in what we now call Alicante, was built high on a mountain covered in artefacts dating to the Bronze, Iberian, and Roman ages. The fortress was captured by Alfonso XI of Castile on December 4 – the feast day of Santa Barbara, for whom it was renamed – in 1248. James II of Aragon – who was also King of Valencia – took the castle in 1296, and ordered it to be rebuilt. Reconstruction continued over the next four centuries, before it was taken by the French in 1691, and later, the English …  

The many-layered castle ruins have been open to the public since 1963. Come and explore!

View of Benidorm from the water, Spain

Benidorm
As we pull out of dock, we get a different view of the popular Mediterranean holiday city of Benidorm. Known for its bars and nightlife, what struck me, though – aside from the high-rise buildings and the mountainous backdrop – was the number of tandem mobility scooters on the water-front promenades! We are definitely part of an ageing population.

View of Costa Blanca from the water, Spain

Costa Blanca
The whole coastline is dotted with resort accommodation.

Two women on the deck of a tourist boat, Costa Blanca Spain

Passengers on the Deck
Northern tourists take advantage of the sunny weather.

View of Alicante port from the Water, Spain

Alicante from the Water
The Port of Alicante is bustling with pleasure boats in the mid-afternoon sun when we draw close. That castle – nestled into the massive rocky outcrop in the middle of the city – is where we are headed.

Rippled tiles on the Paseo de Gomiz, Alicante Spain

Paseo de Gomiz – Alicante Promenade
The rippled tiles on the promenade along the waterfront made my eyes swim; fortunately, there were plenty of market stalls and coffee shops to take my mind off it.

Santa Bárbara Castle, Mount Benacantil, and Alicante, Spain

Castillo de Santa Bárbara
My summer sandals were doing my feet no favours, so I was more than happy to pay the small fee for the elevator ride up inside the mountain to the fortress itself.

Tourists looking out from Castillo de Santa Bárbara, Alicante Spain

Macho del Castillo
Originally built in the 9th century during the era of Muslim control of the Iberian Peninsula (711-1296), the castle was reconstructed during the reign of James II of Aragon in the late 13th century. It is one of Spain’s largest medieval fortresses.

Santa Bárbara Castle turret and Alicante, Spain

Turret over Alicante
The castle sits at a height of 166 metres (545 feet) above sea level, …

View over Alicante from the FortressSanta Bárbara Castle, Alicante, Spain

Alicante from the Fortress
… allowing for expansive views over the city …

Blue and turquoise waters off Alicante, Spain

Waters off Alicante
… and the blue Mediterranean.

Arches turret on the rocky outcrop, Santa Bárbara Castle, Alicante, Spain

Arches Upward
The castle climbs up and around the rocky bluff.

Arches on the rocky outcrop, Santa Bárbara Castle, Alicante, Spain

More Arches

View over a canon to Alicante from Santa Bárbara Castle, Alicante, Spain

Baluarte de Santa Ana
Alicante and the coastal mountains are in the gun sights of the Bastion of Santa Ana.

Ayuntamiento de Santa Bárbara de Casa plaque, , Santa Bárbara Castle, Alicante, Spain

Ayuntamiento de Santa Bárbara de Casa
The site was used as a prison in the 18th century and then fell into disuse until it was opened to the public in 1963. It is managed by the local council, and entry is free.

Flag Flying, Santa Bárbara Castle, Alicante, Spain

Flag Flying

View over the Mediteranean and Santa Bárbara Castle, Alicante, Spain

View over the Castle and the Mediterranean

Down through the Arches on the rocky outcrop, Santa Bárbara Castle, Alicante, Spain

Down through the Arches
I love the rough-textured walls, and the delicate plants that cling to them.

Metal Medieval Soldier sculpture, Santa Bárbara Castle, Alicante, Spain

Metal Soldier
Medieval soldiers are scattered around the fortress. The castle houses exhibits and museums – and even hosts concerts under the stars.

Seagull at the Santa Bárbara Castle, Alicante, Spain

King of the Castle

The ruins of the Hermitage of Santa Bárbara, Santa Bárbara Castle, Alicante, Spain

Ruinas de la Ermita de Santa Bárbara
The ruins of the Hermitage of Santa Bárbara are quite lovely – and house several ancient statues.

People silhouetted in a corridor against the light, Santa Bárbara, Santa Bárbara Castle, Alicante, Spain

Corridor Out of Mount Benacantil
After our visit around the castle, we took the elevator back down the mountain and walked through the corridor and back into the bright lights of the city. There we treated ourselves to huge ice creams before heading back to our boat.

Costa Blanca Coastline, Spain

Costa Blanca Coastline
At six o’clock in the evening, the skies are still light as we cruise north along the Costa Blanca.

Benidorm Coastline under late evening sun, Spain

Benidorm Coastline
The day is long when we approach our dock – but that is ok, as the Spanish typically dine late.

We stopped in Benidorm for dinner before returning to our accommodation – replete after a fascinating day of water views, history and fabulous food.

Text: Happy Travels

Until next time,

Happy Travels!

Photos: 18May2017

  • Gabe - June 29, 2018 - 3:33 am

    It was a lovely holiday and would return anytimeReplyCancel

Elana Stone and Georgia Mooney - on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Elana Stone and Georgia Mooney – All Our Exes Live in Texas
With humour and grace – and voices like angels – this Australian folk-pop quartet was one of my festival highlights.

Music makes everything better!

The annual five-day Easter long-weekend musical feast that is Byron Bay Bluesfest always delivers up such a range and variety of wonderful talent that it is hard to know where to start. Rubbing shoulders with big names from around the world, lesser-known Australian performers proudly hold their own. I look forward to these gems as much as I do the “names” I know and love.

Soaring voices weaving their way around universal themes and very personal tales of love and loss: this year it was the intimate performances by Australian women who had me in tears – and tears of laughter.

This festival, I sought out performers whose names I had heard from friends, but who I had not personally seen before, as well as taking the time to catch some of my old favourites. I am in awe of these talented women: whatever their preferred musical genre, they are masters of their vocal and other instruments; they write clever and interesting lyrics; and they put it all together with catchy tunes.

And, from the point of view of the camera, they look good while doing it! With the dark stages and artificial lighting, these shots are pretty much all taken on my Canon 6D with my EF70-200 lens at f 2.8 and ISO 1600.

Come meet some brilliant Aussie women.

 (Track: All Our Exes Live in TexasThe Devil’s Part)

Caiti Baker on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Caiti Baker
Billed as an R&B/Soul singer-songwriter, Caiti is the daughter of a blues musician and was raised in a house full of blues, soul, gospel and rock & roll.

Caiti Baker on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Caiti Baker

Caiti Baker on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Caiti Baker
I was so impressed with her performance that I made sure to catch her a second time.

Caiti Baker on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Caiti Baker and her Bass
You know the tunes are going to be funky when there is a double bass in the mix.

Caiti Baker on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Caiti Baker
Caiti has been songwriting since she was young; she writes stories based on her own lived experience. As her bio says, she “sings with her soul and unashamedly performs the hell out of [her songs]”.

All Our Exes Live in Texas on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

All Our Exes Live in Texas
I have to wonder how these remarkable women came up with their name! Together since 2014, the band won the 2017 ARIA Award for Best Blues & Roots Album for their debut: ‘When We Fall’.  The first track: “The Devil’s Part” is attached to this post.

Katie Wighton on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Katie Wighton – All Our Exes Live in Texas
Although different individuals tell the background stories to the songs they sing, the women share all the writing credits on their album.

Georgia Mooney on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Georgia Mooney – All Our Exes Live in Texas

Hannah Crofts on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Hannah Crofts
All Our Exes Live in Texas
When was the last time you saw a ukulele …

Elana Stone on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Elana Stone
All Our Exes Live in Texas
… and an accordion as part of popular music mix?

All Our Exes Live in Texas on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

All Our Exes Live in Texas
This was another group I had to give a second listen to – before they set off on their North American tour.

Hannah Crofts on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Hannah Crofts – All Our Exes Live in Texas
With their big earrings and big voices, they did not disappoint!

Elana Stone and Georgia Mooney on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Elana Stone and Georgia Mooney – All Our Exes Live in Texas

Tash Sultana on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Tash Sultana
One of the things I love most about Bluesfest is being introduced to performers I would otherwise not see. This young woman is extraordinary!

Tash Sultana on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Tash Sultana
Tash started playing guitar at three years old, and is now billed as a multi-instrumentalist one-woman band with at least 18 different instruments to her credit. Called a “loopologist”, she sets up layers of instrumental riffs on repeating tracks, all with an infectious energy that is impossible to resist. When we last saw her, she was playing a trumpet!

Molly Millington on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Molly Millington
We started our second day with local singer-songwriter Molly Millington – who is a one-woman band of a different sort. Her music is a “fusion of country and folk and quirky pop.”

Mia Dyson in a Pirate hat on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Mia Dyson
Australian singer, songwriter, and guitarist Mia Dyson holds her own on stage.

Hussy Hicks on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Hussy Hicks
Any regular visitor to this page has heard me rave about Hussy Hicks before. (See: Wash my Blues Away or Back to the Roots of Music.)

Julz Parker on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Julz Parker – Hussy Hicks

Julz Parker on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Julz Parker – Hussy Hicks
The combination of Julz’ guitar …

Leesa Gentz on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Leesa Gentz
… and Leesa’s soaring vocals make the hairs on the back of my neck stand up.

Leesa Gentz in a Pirate hat on stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Leesa Gentz under a “Pirate Flag”
Naturally, there was a festival-goer in a pirate hat, which he lent to Leesa for her rendition of “Pirate Flag”.

It’s a timely message: 

“It’s disconcerting that we’re not learning a thing
As history plays out there’s nothing about it changing
But history books are written by crooks with agendas we cannot conceive
Liars and thieves will make you believe
Things that you shouldn’t believe

Text: To the Musiclet’s leave today go on and pack your bags
Let’s set sail under a pirate flag …”

Sometimes sailing away on a sea of lyrical brilliance is the break we need.

To the music!

 

Photos: 29March-2April2018

Sepik mask in the gable of the little spirit house, Kanganaman Village PNG

Little Spirit House
The tiny village of Kanganaman in the Middle Sepik region of Papua New Guinea has not one, but two spirit houses. This one, the “Little Spirit House” is accessible to women – unlike most of the spirit houses in the region. A typical Sepik mask, complete with what looks like a crocodile spine, sits in the woven gables, keeping watch.

According to a myth in the Kaningara area of the Sepik region of Papua New Guinea (PNG), men used to give birth to children while the women controlled the spirit houses. The women had a set of magic flutes with which they communicated with the spirits, and this is how men were created. One night when the women were sleeping, the men snuck in and stole the flutes, reclaiming their ability to ‘make men’. To this day, women are forbidden from hearing the sounds of the magical flutes. (Fridrikkson: Secrets of the Sepik)

Every clan along the Sepik River has an ancestral haus tambaran, or spirit house, where the men gather and the spirits reside in sacred carvings and other tambu (sacred or forbidden) objects. These elegant, lofty buildings are off-limits to women and the uninitiated. 

The Sepik River has been called “the soul” of Papua New Guinea; it is certainly the best-known geographic feature of the country, and is home to a huge variety of plant and animal life – much of it endemic – a profusion of distinct and idiosyncratic cultures, and more than 250 discrete languages.

These unique tribal cultures in the Sepik region are a long way from my conventional understanding of the world. But then, the middle Sepik – where I was headed – is itself, a long way from anywhere.

Like anyone else who wants to access the region, I (and a number of other photo-enthusiasts under the tutelage of photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours) spent a long time travelling to the area. Just getting to Papua New Guinea itself can be a challenge! Then, from Port Moresby, we boarded a plane for the one-hour twenty flight to Wewak, where we spent the night. (We were lucky to get a direct flight; many of the available weekly flights go via Mt. Hagen, and take three hours.) The next day, we rode a bumpy bus for five hours (with stops; see: Maprik Market Portraits) to Pagwi before getting into motorised dugout boats for a leisurely two-hour trip down the mighty Sepik. It was mesmerising watching the swaying grasses, the abundant birdlife, the occasional crocodile, and the small settlements of stilted, woven houses, as we chugged along. 

Our destination was Kanganaman Village in the Middle Sepik. Known for having the oldest haus tambaran in the region, what the village doesn’t have is electricity or running water! We ate tinned-spam spaghetti for dinner, slept on mats on bamboo flooring, were protected by insect repellent and mosquito nets, washed with water from a large rain barrel, and relieved ourselves in an outhouse that was home to more mosquitos than seems possible. I was very pleased I’d been taking my anti-malarial prophylactics and had received a vaccine against Japanese encephalitis.

But, never mind the bugs; it is a fascinating place. Do come along!

Tourists standing around dugout boats on the Sepik River, Papua New Guinea

Organising the Boats
The “boat launch” at Pagwi is an informal affair! Still, we had been warned: most of us had hats, sunscreen, long sleeves, and shoes we didn’t mind getting wet. We were carrying only the minimal belongings: we would be reunited with our main luggage when we returned to our delightful guesthouse in Wewak in a few days.

Papuan man and boy crouching on the bank of the Sepik River, Pagwi, PNG

People on the Shore
The locals watch with interest as we load ourselves carefully into the dugouts.

Papuan Boatman on a dugout, Sepik River PNG

Boatman
Our boatman perches on the back of the dugout to operate the outboard motor. His mouth shows the discolouration and damage from years of chewing betal (areca) nut.

Papuan Boatman on a dugout, Sepik River PNG

Boatman
He keeps a sharp eye out for obstacles as we motor slowly up the river.

Woven stilted huts, Sepik River PNG

Huts on the River
Most of the houses along the river are built of woven grasses, and raised up on stilts.

Egret flying, Sepik River PNG

Egret
I found it soporific in the afternoon sun, listening to the drone of the motor and the splash of the water, and watching the birds take flight.

Papuan children on the shore of the Sepic River, Kanganaman Village PNG

Boys on the Shore
When we reached Kanganaman Village, children were on on the shore to greet us.

Papuan children on the grass, Kanganaman Village PNG

Children in the Village
As we walked through the village, other children come out to have a look at the strangers …

Papuan mother and child in a window, Kanganaman Village PNG

People in the Window
… or check us out from their windows.

French man and a Papuan in a Window, Kanganaman Village PNG

Men in a Window
Tourists (this one is from France) sometimes homestay in the village; there is to be a festival the next day, so there are more tourists than usual in the area.

Papuan people on the grass, Kanganaman Village PNG

Hanging around the Village
There is no sense of urgency in the village.

Tourists entering the little spirit house, Kanganaman Village PNG

Little Spirit House
After dropping our bags in our lodgings, we visited the ‘Little Spirit House’ – the domain of the women and others who are not initiated. The building is is beautifully woven … 

Cassowary Costume in a dark sprit house, Kanganaman Village PNG

Cassowary Totem
… and very dark. The model cassowary inside is almost impossible to make out in the obscurity.

Painted Sepik River masks, Kanganaman Village PNG

Painted Carvings
The people of the Sepik River are well known for their carved masks and other artworks, which have been much sought after by collectors.

Portrait: Middle-aged Papuan man, Kanganaman Village PNG

Sepik Carver
One of the carvers posed for me in the dark spirit house.

Portrait: Two middle-aged Papuan men, Kanganaman Village PNG

Sepik Carvers
Uncle and nephew: carving traditions are passed down through tribal families. These men are of the crocodile clan (more about that another time); you can just see the scarification circles on their chests.

The Haus Tambaran, Kanganaman Village PNG

The Haus Tambaran – the Men’s House
The main spirit house is larger – but less finely decorated on the outside – than the ‘Little Spirit House’ just a few minutes away. This huge building with its carved posts and woven ceiling has been identified as being of national cultural importance, and so has been renovated with help from the National Museum.

Carved partially-naked female figure over the entrance of the Haus Tambaran, Kanganaman Village PNG

Protector of the Haus Tambaran
Even though they house secret men’s business, spirit houses are considered female symbols and are often decorated with female forms.

Yellow white and black painted Mask, Kanganaman Village PNG

Painted Mask
The men’s house is light and airy – making it much easier to admire the carvings inside. Traditionally, carving was an attempt to make the spirits visible: spirits can inhabit the carvings and other art within spirit houses.

Yellow brown and black painted Mask, Kanganaman Village PNG

Sepic Mask
Today, however, many of the carvings in the spirit houses are available for sale. Although Papuans who are not initiated in the local clan cannot enter the spirit houses, we foreign tourists are welcome – for a small price.

Boy in a Tree, Kanganaman Village PNG

Boy in a Tree
The day was growing late, and we were offered a trip on the water to watch the sunset. As we headed to our dugouts, some of the local children climbed high into the trees to watch us.

Children jumping into the Sepik River, Kanganaman Village PNG

Kids in the Water
Other village children followed us upstream, and took the opportunity to go for a swim.

Children swimming in the Sepik River at sunset, Kanganaman Village PNG

Kids in the Water
They frolicked in the evening waters …

Sunset on the Sepik River, Kanganaman Village PNG

Sunset on the Sepik River
… as the sun went down over a full and rewarding day.

Once the sun sets, it is very dark in the tropics. The battery generator in our bamboo hut operated for a little while, but we all tucked ourselves into our mosquito nets early: we were going to be part of a sing sing – a gathering of a tribes and villages for song and dance – the  next day. 

Text: Happy TravelsNot even the buzzing of insects could keep me awake! 

Until next time,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 13August2017

  • Jan Lively - June 15, 2018 - 2:21 pm

    Oh Ursula, what a positively delightful trip down memory lane. But here in Utah, we have AC, so it was nice to relive the trip without the heat. . . . Hee Hee
    You have such a way with words; they’re so beautiful and poetic. Thank you for taking me back there in such a special way. Do hope all is copacetic with you and Gabe and the whole family. We send our best to you all from us here in the Utah desert.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - June 16, 2018 - 12:30 am

      So nice to hear from you, Jan.
      Yes, I forgot to mention the heat… like a suffocating wet blanket, wasn’t it? I hope you are having fun while Lew rides the impossible desert terrain!
      Love to you both xReplyCancel

  • […] and White View and Crocodile Men). But, Kanganaman has not one, but two spirit houses (see: Welcome to the Spirit House). The smaller one is open to everyone in the village, and it was there that the women were gathered […]ReplyCancel

  • […] two days of rough plane- bus- and boat-travel away from the PNG capital of Port Moresby (see: Welcome to the Spirit House!). The heat and humidity were unrelenting. My fellow-travellers (photographer Karl Grobl from Jim […]ReplyCancel

  • […] with no electricity or running water; a village comprising not one, but two spirit houses (see: Welcome to the Spirit House), but lacking a school. The river is the area’s lifeline, and those children who attend […]ReplyCancel

  • Mary-Clare Adam - July 15, 2021 - 7:44 pm

    Hi Ursula,

    Your photos are lovely and brought back memories of my years as a tour guide on the Sepik River in the 1970s. I was interested to see the new style of mask carving in Kanganaman. Just a note, from Pagwi you go downriver to Kanganaman, not upriver.
    Where else in PNG did you go? Would like to see more.
    All the best,
    Mary-ClareReplyCancel

    • Ursula - July 16, 2021 - 2:18 am

      Hi Mary-Clare,
      Many thanks for the visit – and the correction! I don’t know my left from my right – or my up from my down, obviously.
      I still have a few Mt Hagen photos to go through, but you will find Milne Bay, Paiya Village and Port Moresby in the search box, or follow: https://www.ursulasweeklywanders.com/?s=papua+
      Cheers,
      UrsulaReplyCancel

Nepali woman and child on a hill, Namobuddha to Dhulikhel, Kathmandu Valley

Family on the Hill
Smiling people sitting in the dirt on a hill overlooking colourful multi-story houses and endlessly terraced hills: where else could you be, but Nepal?

They say every journey begins with a single step.

Even so, when I heard that the penultimate leg of our walk for the day was the ominously named “1000 steps”, I worried. In Nepal, “steps” always means up, not just forward! I can outstrip a lot of people on the flat, but present me the slightest incline, and these days it stops me in my tracks.

It was day two of the “easy” hike around the East Kathmandu Valley in NepalGoogle Maps puts the walk from Namo Buddha to Dhulikhel (following the route we took; via Phoolbari/Phulbari) at 11.6 km (7.2 mi), and suggests that it should take about three hours and twenty minutes; with detours and stops, it took us closer to seven hours, and it felt a LOT further! Oh, the joys of ageing.

We started our morning with chanting and breakfast with the monks at the Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery (see: Dal Bhat and Prayers) before working our way down the steps and path to the village commonly known as Namo Buddha. After that, it was a case of following our guide, Angfula Sherpa, as the forking paths wound through woods and fields and villages … and finally – up those steps!

Of course, there were plenty of excuses to stop for photos, or a chat with locals, or a delicious plate of momos – which might be why we took so long! 

Namo Buddha Stupa, Nepal

Namo Buddha Stupa
This stupa is said to house the bones of Mahasattva (Semchen Chenpo) who gave up his body to a tigress who was starving while trying to feed her cubs. It was later determined that Mahasattva was an earlier incarnation of the Gautama (Shakyamuni) Buddha.

Tibetan woman, Namo Buddha Stupa, Nepal

Old Woman Perambulating
For Nepali and Tibetan Buddhists, this is one of the holiest pilgrimage sites in Nepal.
It is customary to walk around any stupa three times in a clockwise direction, spinning the prayer wheels and repeating prayers or mantras.

Nepali Pilgrims at the Namo Buddha Stupa Market tables, Nepal

Pilgrims at the Market
Pilgrims buy incense, candles, prayer flags and other religious items to help expedite their prayers.

Small Shrine full of burning candles, Namo Buddha Stupa, Nepal

Small Shrine
The lighting of candles or lamps represents the knowledge of the Buddha symbolically illuminating the darkness of ignorance.

Affixing A Nepali man attaching prayer flags to Namo Buddha Stupa, Nepal

Affixing Prayer Flags on the Stupa
The religious sites in Nepal are well-tended. There was an old woman looking after the shrine here, and this young man applied a fresh coat of whitewash to the stupa before scaling it to affix the new prayer flags someone had purchased.

Namo Buddha Stupa, Nepal

Namo Buddha Stupa
This site was originally called Takmo LujinTibetan for “giving the body to the tigress” – but villagers were afraid of invoking the tigers that still roamed these hills, and called it Namo BuddhaNepali for “homage to the Buddha” instead.

Looking Back at the Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Kathmandu Valley Nepal

Looking Back at the Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery
It feels like we are going nowhere as we trek up out of Namo Buddha. But then, only half an hour later, we can see the the monastery where we spent the night – perched on a hill far behind us!

Terraced Hill, Namobuddha to Dhulikhel, Kathmandu Valley

Terraced Hill
Terraced hills, planted with Nepal’s principal food supply are all around us.

White tubular flowers with purple, Namobuddha to Dhulikhel, Kathmandu Valley

Wildflowers on the Path
The signs of spring rise from the verges …

Flowering shrub with long stamens and yellow petals, Namobuddha to Dhulikhel, Kathmandu Valley

Yellow Flowering Shrubs
… and line the sides of the paths we are walking.

Women gathering and sorting grain, Namobuddha to Dhulikhel, Kathmandu Valley

Gathering Grain
Everywhere we go, people are hard at work. Winter wheat is generally harvested early- to mid-March here in the valley. I’m guessing that is what these women are sorting.

View over terraced hills, Namobuddha to Dhulikhel, Kathmandu Valley

View to the Valleys
The sun rises to it’s zenith, warming us and the hills around us.

Children doing bookwork in the courtyard of a small community school, Namobuddha to Dhulikhel, Kathmandu Valley

Kids in the Schoolyard
Our next impromptu stop was at a tiny “Community School”, where the children were on the ground outside with a “teacher” not much older than themselves.

Small brightly painted shine or stupa, Namobuddha to Dhulikhel, Kathmandu Valley

Temple in the Dirt
Any village big enough for a school will certainly have a shrine and/or temple and/or stupa.

Colourful Nepali village on a hill, Namobuddha to Dhulikhel, Kathmandu Valley

Village on the Hill
Some of the hillsides are terraced with colourful villages, rather than just crops.

Nepali women at with large wicker baskets, Namobuddha to Dhulikhel, Kathmandu Valley

Women at Work
The women are all hard at work, but they are still ready with a quick smile for the strangers.

Nepali woman with a tethered ewe and baby goats, Namobuddha to Dhulikhel, Kathmandu Valley

Woman and her Goats
This woman was very keen to show me her baby kids.

Men building a house, Namobuddha to Dhulikhel, Kathmandu Valley

Building or Rebuilding?
The effects of the 2015 earthquake are still much in evidence. Watching some projects, it is hard to tell if people are building from scratch, or rebuilding a ruin. Certainly, recovered materials are in use everywhere.

Man metalworking in a rough shed, Namobuddha to Dhulikhel, Kathmandu Valley

Making Ornaments
In a tin shed at a fork in the road, I found a man crafting ornaments from carved cow horn and metal.

Man with birds made from bone in a rough shed, Namobuddha to Dhulikhel, Kathmandu Valley

A Man and his Birds
“He’s not from around here,” was all anyone could tell me. Still, the birds were sweet and inexpensive; I went home with a couple.

Two men on the path to the Dhulikhel Height Resort, Nepal

Dhulikhel Height Resort
This had to be the highlight of our day! It was mid-afternoon when we climbed the rise to the modestly-built, elaborately-named: Dhulikhel Height Resort.

Momos, Dhulikhel Height Resort, Nepal

Momos
When I hear “momos”, I can climb any rise; and these were good. Very, very, good.

Dhulikhel

Golden Buddha
We paid quick respects to Dhulikhel’s giant golden Buddha before working our way through town …

View over the mountains from a Dhulikhel Lodge Resort room, Nepal

View from my Room
… and to our home for the night: the Dhulikhel Lodge Resort. I couldn’t wait to get my boots off and just sit on my balcony, overlooking the mountains.

As is always the case in Nepal, every step was worth it.

Looking out my window over the mountains around me, I almost forgot my blisters and the pains in my muscles, my hip and my knees.

Sign-Off-NamasteAlmost!

Till next time,

Namaste!

Photos: 7March2017

Daffodils on the Hill, Pendennis Castle Cornwal UK

Daffodils on the Hill
Daffodils blooming wild on the hillside overlooking Falmouth Harbour are a sure sign that spring has taken hold in Cornwall.

We all know that it is England’s notoriously rainy weather – especially in spring – that keeps the grass so green and the flowers blooming. Nowhere is this truer than in the southwestern regions of the country, where the climate is classed as “oceanic” or “maritime” under the Köppen classification system. Winter is not too cold, summer is not too hot – and rain can be expected all year round.

So, imagine our surprise, when we docked in Falmouth, Cornwall, this April, and were greeted with a gloriously sunny day. 

My husband and I were on a small ocean-going boat that was hugging the outside coast of Europe from Barcelona in Spain to Bergen in Norway (Viking: Trade Routes of the Middle Ages). We had been unusually lucky with the weather on all our port stops, and this day was no exception.

To make the most of the amazing conditions, we jumped on a morning bus tour around the central-southern portion of the county, and then walked around the town of Falmouth itself in the afternoon. Of course, taking pictures from buses is always challenging, with the other passengers and curved windows in tinted glass, but I’ve included a few just to round out the picture.

Do come along!

View of St Michaels Mount from a tour bus, Cornwall UK.

St Michael’s Mount
As our tour bus winds through the steep and narrow streets of Marazion, we catch glimpses of St Michael’s Mount: a medieval castle on a small tidal island in Mount’s Bay, Cornwall

View of St Michael

St Michael’s Mount
When the bus finally lets us out for a walk, the sun is on the wrong side of the island; that is the down side of trips that are not planned with photography in mind.

Walking and bicycle path signposts, Marazion beach, Cornwall UK.

Sign Posting
Walking and bicycle paths criss-cross the rural countryside …

Family on a Marazion beach, Cornwall UK.

Cornwall Beach
… and families take advantage of the temperate English Channel waters on the rocky beach.

View of Penzance from a Marazion beach, Cornwall UK.

Penzance
Cornwall’s most westerly major town – whose name brings to my mind the comic opera by Gilbert and Sullivan – sits across Mount’s Bay.

Godrevy Lighthouse from Godrevy Heritage Coast, Cornwall UK

Godrevy Lighthouse
Back in the bus, we drive across the peninsula to the north coast, and follow the Godrevy Heritage Coast

Portreath Lighthouses from Godrevy Heritage Coast, Cornwall UK

Portreath Lighthouses
… past spectacular cliffs and long, sandy beaches, punctuated with lighthouses and rocky coves, sea walls and headlands.

Basset Monument, Carn Brea, Cornwall

Basset Monument
Carn Brea is like a microcosm of Cornwall: for over 300 years (3700-3400BC), it was the site of a small Neolithic settlement; during the the Iron Age, it was occupied by miners looking for minerals; during the the Middle Ages, a chapel, and later a castle dominated the hillside; and it has a sacred Celtic well nearby and a smugglers’ cave is in the cliffs below.
At the highest point on the hill, a 27 meter (90 ft) Celtic cross was built as a monument to local philanthropist and a mine owner, Francis Basset. Ruins of tin mines still dot the landscape. The ground is still rich with tin deposits, but extraction is too difficult and expensive, so no mines operate today.

Falmouth Underpass, Cornwall UK

Falmouth Underpass
After lunch back on the boat, we set off on foot to explore Falmouth.

Cruise ship docked in Falmouth Harbour, Cornwall, UK

Viking Sky in Port
As a deep, sheltered port, Falmouth is a lifeblood to the region. Known as the “first and last port” for ships crossing the Atlantic to the New World, the docks are important for repairs and refuelling. They also house the Pendennis Shipyards, one of the world’s leading builders and re-fitters of luxury super yachts. The 21st century has seen the rise of European cruise industry, with many boats stopping over en route to Ireland, France, or other English ports.

Fresh green leaves, blue sky, Cornwall UK

Spring Growth
We continue up the hill overlooking the harbour, with signs of new growth all around us.

Cannon Bunker in a hillside, Falmouth Cornwall UK

Cannon Bunker
Of course, defensive signs are also in evidence: this is the very edge of Great Britain, and old cannons watch out to sea.

St Anthony

St Anthony’s Head Lighthouse, St Mawes
From the path to Pendennis Castle, we have glimpses over the deep waters known as Carrick Roads to St Mawes on the opposite headland.

Daffodils on the Hill, Pendennis Castle Cornwall UK

Daffodils
All manner of spring flowers are at the ground around our feet …

Blossoms on the Hill, Pendennis Castle Cornwal UK

Spring Blossoms
… and in the trees above our heads.

Entry to Pendennis Castle, Falmouth Cornwal UK

Pendennis Castle
Built as an artillery stronghold by Henry VIII between 1540 and 1542, this castle’s name is Cornish: ‘pen’ is a headland and ‘dynas’ is a fortification.

Entry to Pendennis Castle, Falmouth Cornwal UK

Pendennis Castle
Today, the castle is managed by English Heritage as a tourist attraction, and when we walked around the perimeter, it was being used as a venue for a wedding.

Flag atop atop Pendennis Castle Keep and Gun Platform, Falmouth Cornwal UK

Flag atop the 16th-Century Keep and Gun Platform

Coast Guard Station, Pendennis Falmouth Cornwall UK

Coast Guard Station
Downhill from the castle, there is a coast guard unit …

Coast Guard Station, Pendennis Falmouth Cornwall UK

Home Guard Tour
… where interactive tours are run by pre-arrangement.

Police Call Box and parked cars on Pendennis Point, Falmouth Cornwall UK

Police Call Box
Does it get any more British? The parking lot at Pendennis Point includes a shiny blue police call box – like the TARDIS  in Dr Who.

Couple on a Bench, Castle Drive, Falmouth Cornwall UK

Couple on a Bench
Benches line Castle Drive as it winds around the castle hill towards town.

The Falmouth Hotel, Cliff Road Falmouth UK

The Falmouth Hotel
Opened in 1865, this lovely old building is the oldest hotel in Falmouth.

Colourful Storage Sheds, Falmouth Cornwall UK

Storage Sheds
As a reward for our long walk, we stopped at an outdoor table in the sun for a Cornish High Tea. I cannot tell a lie: that was truly the best scones and cream I have ever tasted!

Sunset over the English Channel

Sunset over the English Channel
Our boat pulls away from dock and sails east through the English Channel. As we are eating dinner, we watch the sun go down over a perfect day.

We were chatting to the couple next to us at dinner and the woman expressed some disappointment: like me, she had read Daphne du Maurier as a girl. So, she expected the Cornwall landscape to be darker, moodier.

I had to laugh. Back in 2012, my husband and I spend a few days in Cornwall and it rained the whole time. The first morning, all the golfers in our hotel were sulking because the fog was so thick, you literally couldn’t see your hand in front of your face, let alone a tee on the green. When we visited Land’s End we could hear the sea crashing, but the fog obscured the paths, the cliff edges and the rocky, boat-shattering rocks below. We stopped at Merry Maidens, where the soft rains and wet grass around the standing stones made it easy to imagine Druids dancing. At the Lost Gardens of Heligen, we huddled under our umbrellas, following the wet pathways all alone, as if it were we who were discovering these strange topiaries. And, at Jamaica Inn, where we stopped for a lunch of Cornish pasties, the wet, stormy skies overhead and the surrounding moors were as dark and moody as you could want.

Text: Happy Travels

“It all depends on the weather,” I told her. 

It must be one of the few times that having good weather has let someone down.

Until next time, Happy Travels!

Photos: 21April2018