The Commemorative Area Forecourt, the Australian War Museum in Canberra

Inside the Australian War Museum
The Australian War Museum in Canberra is a solemn place – a place in which to reflect on the costs of war. Standing in the Commemorative Area Forecourt, we look across the pond at the eternal flame, with the Hall of Memory in the background.

Somewhere in my neighbourhood, there is a bagpiper.

I hear him more often than see him: at sporadic intervals throughout the year, kitted out in full tartan he plays through a selection of tunes. When I hear him, I know it is the lead-up to one of Australia’s days of remembrance.

He’s been out again over the last month, and sure enough, today is ANZAC day.

ANZAC stands for Australian and New Zealand Army Corps, and the date – April 25th every year – was chosen to mark when the two countries’ forces joined to form part of the allied expedition attempting to capture the Gallipoli peninsula. Today, it is observed annually to remember all Australians who served and died in all wars, conflicts, and peacekeeping operations.

It’s a solemn occasion, and seemed like a good time to revisit photos from the Australian War Memorial (AWM) and ANZAC Parade, both in Canberra.

Canberra, Australia’s capital, is a planned city: ANZAC Parade is a broad boulevard that runs along the Land Axis, a key feature of the designer Walter Burley Griffin’s Griffin’s original 1912 plan. It affords long views between the memorial and the elegant Parliament House. As a commemorative walk with sculptural tributes to the various forces interspersed along both sides, ‘The Parade’ was finished in 1965.

The concept for the AWM was born in 1925 and the building first opened in 1941.

Come for a walk:

The Bushmaster, the Australian War Museum, Canberra.

The Bushmaster Protected Mobility Vehicle
I visited the Australian War Museum with my son, who – because of his military service has an intimate knowledge of armoured vehicles – was happy to introduce me to ‘his’ Bushmaster

Tanks, the Australian War Museum, Canberra.

Tanks
… and the panzers on display in the courtyard.

"Lest We Forget" monument, the Australian War Museum, Canberra.

‘Lest We Forget’

Commemorative Area Forecourt, the Australian War Museum in Canberra

Commemorative Area Forecourt
Once past the first entry, we are in the forecourt, where the Roll of Honour sits behind arched cloisters.

Detail: Winged Victory sculpture, the Australian War Museum in Canberra

Winged Victory
The halls in the museum are dark. Gilbert Doble’s (1880-1945) copper alloy sculpture of Nike, the winged goddess of victory, was rescued from the Marrickville Soldiers’ Memorial, where it was at risk of disintegrating.

Sculpture: Greece by Lyndon Dadswell, the Australian War Museum in Canberra

Greece
In an exhibition called Shared Experience, we find the Lyndon Dadswell (1908–1986) bronze representing the 16th Australian Infantry Brigade in their march back over Mount Olympus during WWII.

Detail: Tenacity 2020, red poppies on cream, the Australian War Museum in Canberra

‘Tenacity 2020’
Poppies are an enduring symbol of the muddy battlefields of WWI. Contemporary Australian artist Katrina Black draws a metaphor between their tenacious but transient beauty, the struggles of war, and the power of a simple symbol to unite allies.

Looking at Parliament Hill from the Australian War Museum in Canberra

The Avenue
Back outside, we have a clear view to Parliament Hill.

The Australian War Museum in Canberra

The Museum
When it was agreed to build the museum in 1923, a design competition was held. With no clear winner, architects Emil Sodersten and John Crust were asked to collaborate and create a design incorporating different proposals.

The Australian War Museum in Canberra

Dome
The building includes Art Deco elements, with Byzantine and Egyptian components.

Tree, the Australian War Museum in Canberra

Shade Tree
The surrounds are green, shady, …

Sculptured bust: Australian Soldier by Wallace Anderson, The Australian War Museum in Canberra

Australian Soldier by Wallace Anderson
… and punctuated with sculptures paying homage to the armed forces.

View from ANZAC Parade to the Australian War Museum in Canberra

ANZAC Parade
From the bottom of The Parade, you have a clear view to the Australian War Museum, with Mount Ainslie behind it. Construction of new spaces are ongoing.

Sunflare on the New Zealand Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

‘Each of Us at a Handle of the Basket’
I started my walk along The Parade at the bottom, and proceeded backwards from there. The New Zealand Memorial was a gift to Australia in 2001: representations of flax-basket handles, symbolic of the two nations working together, are on both sides of the of the road.

Crests of Australian Peacekeeping forces, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Crests of the Peacekeepers
The Australian Peacekeeping Memorial acknowledges military, police, and civilian peacekeepers active in international missions since 1947.

Flags over the Australian Peacekeeping Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Australian Peacekeeping Memorial
On an almost windless day, the flags of the agencies flap lightly overhead.

The Rats of Tobruk Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

The Rats of Tobruk Memorial
Through the tall southern blue gums (Eucalyptus globulus), the sandy colours of the memorial marking the historic WWII siege of Tobruk in Libya command attention.

The Rats of Tobruk Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

An Eternal Flame
German propaganda radio likened the allied troops in Libya to rats – and the Australians in the garrison took the jibe and wore it with pride. The Rats of Tobruk Memorial is modelled on the one built by Royal Australian Engineers in Tobruk during the siege.

Australian Vietnam Forces National Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Australian Vietnam Forces National Memorial
Across the wide boulevard, we can see the monument dedicated to those Australians who served in Vietnam between 1962 and 1973.

Australian Service Nurses National Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Australian Service Nurses National Memorial
On my side of the road, elegantly curved and flowing glass commemorates the nurses – like my daughter – who have served on battlefields since the Boer War.

Australian Army National Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Australian Army National Memorial
Across the avenue, a couple of ‘diggers’ are on patrol.

Royal Australian Navy Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Royal Australian Navy Memorial
The blocky ‘Sailors and Ships’ monument is a distinct contrast to some of the other sculptured forms.

Bronze likeness of Ataturk, the Kemal Ataturk Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Atatürk
The bronze likeness of Kemal Ataturk, the commander of the Turkish forces at Gallipoli, and the founding father and first president of modern Türkiye, was a gift from the Turkish Government to acknowledge the 70th anniversary of the landing at Gallipoli (see: The Gallipoli Peninsula).

Australian Army National Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

‘Every Mother’s Son’
The first monument on the self-guided walk (or the middle one, in my case) is the Australian Hellenic Memorial to a WWII unit. At the next cluster, the ‘diggers’, continue their patrol in their jungle greens.

Australian Army National Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Poppies
Flowers have been attached to the diggers’ uniforms – making a small splash of colour.

Australian National Korean War Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Australian National Korean War Memorial
The field of poles surrounding the three participant forces – sailors, soldiers, and airmen – represents those who died during the Korean War.

Sunflare on the Desert Mounted Corps Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Desert Mounted Corps Memorial
Commonly known as the Light Horse Memorial, this sculpture is a copy of one which originally formed part of a tribute erected at Port Said in 1932. It commemorates the Australian and New Zealand soldiers who were killed in Egypt, Palestine, and Syria during World War One.

Detail: the head of a horseman, the Australian Boer War ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

The Australian Boer War Memorial
Australian Colonial forces joined the British against the the Dutch-Afrikaner settlers in South Africa between 1899 and 1902.

Sun through oak leaves, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Sun in the Oak Leaves

Text: Lest we ForgetThe oaks endure – and the battles continue around the globe.

Sobering, really.

Pictures: 30January2021 and 12April2024

Main shrine inside Brihadeeshwara Temple, Thanjavur India

Inside Brihadisvara Temple
Looming tall (66 m – 216 ft), the vimana (sanctum tower) inside the UNESCO-listed Brihadisvara Temple is delicately carved and warmly coloured in the morning light. This temple in Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu, is considered a masterpiece of Chola art and architecture.

This was my first sojourn into Southern India – and I was finding everything as different as it could be!

I was travelling as part of a small-group tour. We had just spent a few days in Puducherry (see: Weekly Wanders Pondicherry) and had set out early one morning in our bus for the city of Thanjavur, which has been called the ‘cultural hub of Tamil Nadu and an ’embodiment of South Indian art and craft.’

Our first stop, in the port city of Cuddalore, was at a cottage industry manufacturing products from coir; producing rope, mats, brushes, mattresses, and other wares from the outer husk of coconuts. I actually found this fascinating, as I have often wondered what use can be made of the mountains of coconut shells one sees in the tropics.

Once in Thanjavur (Tanjore), we settled into our rooms in a beautiful, centrally-located, Tamil-style hotel, before visiting another small workshop – this time, one where traditional religious icons are painstakingly crafted from bronze.

The heart of Thanjavur is the magnificent Brihadisvara (Brihadeeshwara, Brihadiswara) Temple, built in the 11th century by the reigning Chola king.

To my naive eye, the ancient temple architecture of Southern India has more in common with that seen in neighbouring Sri Lanka – and even Bali and Siem Reap – than with that of Northern India. This actually makes sense, as during the height of the Tamil Chola Empire (848–1279), the dynasty ruled over Sri Lanka and stretched its influence across portions of what are now Myanmar, Thailand, and Cambodia, and well into Indonesia.

The UNESCO World Heritage Listed Brihadisvara Temple is considered a remarkable example of Dravidian artisanship and one of South India’s most magnificent architectural accomplishments. While paying tribute to both Hindu and Buddhist deities, the 1000 year-old temple was dedicated to Shiva by the king who commissioned it, Rajaraja Chola I. The surrounding fortified walls were added after the 16th century.

Join me for a cultural snapshot of Tamil Nadu:

Stairs in a coir home and factory, Cuddalore, Tamil Nadu India

Home and Factory
Our first stop on the four-hour drive between Puducherry and Thanjavur was at a typical concrete home in Cuddalore

Woman twisting coconut fibre into rope, Cuddalore, Tamil Nadu India

Twisting Coir Rope
… where the family conducts the labour-intensive job of twisting coconut fiber into rope.

Woman and man twisting coconut fibre into rope, Cuddalore, Tamil Nadu India

Double-Strength
Our guide Louis jumps in to show how the spun fibre can then be neatly doubled for extra strength.

Portrait: thumbs up from a Tamil woman, Cuddalore, Tamil Nadu India

Portrait of a Spinner

Rope from coconut fibre, Cuddalore, Tamil Nadu India

A Tangle of Coir Rope

Young man making tea, with an older man watching, Ariyalur Tamil Nadu

Chai Wallah
My favourite road-stops involve freshly-fried samosas and hot coffee or spiced tea – good luck getting either without milk! The process of making either drink involves boiling it first, then cooling it by pouring it from one container into another from as great a distance as the chai wallah (tea maker) can manage. (iPhone12pro)

Cow in the dirt and garbage, Ariyalur Tamil Nadu, India

So India!
Of course, without a guide, I probably would have taken one look at the family cow, outside in the garbage, and kept driving! (iPhone12pro)

Tamil men in green and yellow outfits with brass instruments and drums, Thanjavur India

Band in the Street
There is always a celebration somewhere! The building next to our hotel was hosting a wedding, and the band played loudly, ready to escort the bride and groom off somewhere.

Quiet Thanjavur street, Tamil Nadu, India

Thanjavur Street
The colourful, multi-story houses stand shoulder-to-shoulder either side of the rough, narrow street. (iPhone12pro)

Woman and schoolgirl in a quiet Thanjavur street, Tamil Nadu, India

The School Run
It is late afternoon, and the streets are quiet except for the odd parent picking up their children from the nearby school. (iPhone12pro)

Small bronze figure of Dewi Sri on a rough floor, Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu, India

Bronze Dewi Sri
Our late-afternoon excursion is to a rough building where craftsmen painstakingly re-create traditional religious icons. This one is a version of the Goddess Lakshmi, Guardian of the Rice Harvest.

Craftsman melting bronze on an open fire, Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu, India

Sparks Flying
The metal is liquified over a coal fire … (iPhone12pro)

Craftsman pouring liquid bronze into a mould, Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu, India

Making Metal Icons
… and poured into a clay mould. (iPhone12pro)

Two Tamil men: on a veena and a drum, Svatma, Thanjavur India

Musicians
After dinner at our hotel, we are treated to a concert of classical Tamil music on veena and percussion. (iPhone12pro)

Antique veena on display, Svatma, Thanjavur India

Veena on Display
The hotel library has a number of precious antique instruments on show. (iPhone12pro)

Tourists on the path leading to the entry into Brihadishvara Temple, Thanjavur India

Entry Gate into Brihadisvara Temple
The next morning, we were off to explore Brihadisvara Temple, which UNESCO calls one of the ‘Great Living Chola Temples’.

View of the gopura from the outer entrance, Brihadishvara Temple, Thanjavur India

Entry, Entry, and Entry
From the entry through the outer wall, we can see the ornately decorated gopura, the monumental entrance tower, into the temple grounds.

Inner gate Brihadisvara Temple, Thanjavur India

Rajarajan Tiruvasal
The inner gate, or gopuram, is more ornately decorated than the outer ones, …

Dvarapala over the inner gate of Brihadisvara Temple, Thanjavur India

Guardian of the Gopura
… and has a pair of divine doorkeepers standing guard either side of the entry.

Dvarapala over the inner gate of Brihadisvara Temple, Thanjavur India

Dvarapalas/Dwarapalakas
From the Sanskrit dwara, meaning “door,” and pala, meaning “protector”, these ferocious deities are common in Hindu temples.

Carved text inside the inner gate Brihadisvara Temple, Thanjavur India

The Writing on the Wall
Even the languages and scripts in India’s south are different. The Brihadishwara Temple has Tamil and Sanskrit inscriptions from the 11th century all around the granite walls.

The Sanctum and the Nandi Mandapam, Brihadisvara Temple, Thanjavur India

The Vimana – The Sanctum Tower
One of the tallest vimana in the world, the temple tower stands an impressive 66 m (216 ft) high. In front of it is a separate Nandi Mandapam – a pillared hall housing a 25 tonne monolithic carving of Nandi – Shiva’s sacred bull.

Bas relief carved deities, Brihadisvara Temple, Thanjavur India

Gods on the Wall
Every surface of the complex is richly decorated.

Gods and deities in the sanctum, Brihadisvara Temple, Thanjavur India

Inner Temple
The sanctum is dedicated to Shiva, and this is as far as we can go; only priests are allowed to enter the inner-most chambers.

Main shrine inside Brihadisvara Temple, Thanjavur India

The Sanctum and Tower
The whole structure is huge, with steps and ladders leading up to special shrines to Hindu and Buddhist deities.

Colourful Nataraja statue, Brihadisvara Temple, Thanjavur India

Nataraja Statue
This version of Shiva depicts him as Lord of the Dance, stamping out a demon who symbolises ignorance and ego.

Environmental portrait: man in a white dhoti, Brihadisvara Temple, Thanjavur India

Man in an Alcove
There are nooks and crannies everywhere!

Ornate spout and claw-footed tub, Brihadisvara Temple, Thanjavur India

Tap and Basin

Stone Nandi through a window in the temple wall, Brihadisvara Temple, Thanjavur India

Nandi through a Window
Shiva’s vahana (mount) can be seen everywhere.

Mandapam and shrine inside Brihadisvara Temple, Thanjavur India

More Shrines in the Courtyard
No wonder the complex is known as Thanjai Periya KovilThanjavur’s Big Temple!

It was a wonderful sampling of South Indian culture.

Sign-Off-Namaste

And we were headed back to our hotel for another treat: a vegetarian thali lunch – a meal with numerous small portions of local delicacies.

Namaskara!

Pictures: 23-24January2023

View south from Flagstaff Hill, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia

Tropical Blues and Greens
Even in the Wet Season, you can have beautiful days with clear skies and wonderful views in the Australian tropics. Towards the end of my stay in Port Douglas, Far North Queensland, I took the short climb up to the Flagstaff Hill Lookout for uninterrupted views over the Coral Sea. (23February2021 – iPhone12Pro)

Many, many years ago, I went to the cinema to see a then-new Australian film: Travelling North(1987) by prolific and much-loved playwright David Williamson. I was entranced! Not so much by the grumpy main character played by Leo McKern, or the plot, in which not much happens, but by the setting. After taking a road trip past Port Douglas, which is as far north as the road goes in Eastern Australia, a middle-aged (plus+) couple move from their cold, wet Melbourne home to northern Queensland.

From the moment I watched the movie, I wanted to visit their quaint wooden cottage where the tropical jungle wrapped around them like a warm blanket.

With COVID-19 travel restrictions still in place in 2021, Australian tourist destinations were offering all kinds of deals to local travellers to try to compensate for the lack of international visitors. We were prevented from even the thought of overseas trips; so – although mask and distancing rules abounded – it was the perfect opportunity for me to plan a lengthy domestic road trip.

Travel during the Wet Season in Tropical Far North Queensland might not be ideal, but while the rain can be heavy (think: a bathtub of tepid water being pour over your head), it doesn’t usually last all day. With the right shoes, you can still do and see a lot.

Even by the most direct route – which is not the one I took – the distance from my house to the end of the Eastern road is around 3000 km (1800 mi). But, I had a week in some very nice accomodation in the town of Port Douglas to look forward to, and plenty to do once I got there.

My drive north mostly followed the coastline. After a stop in Airlie Beach, where I made a trip to Hamilton Island on the Great Barrier Reef (see: In the Heart of the Reef), I continued to Mission Beach on the Cassowary Coast (spoiler alert: I didn’t see any cassowaries – only warning signs!), where I had two days of unremitting rain before proceeding to Port Douglas, a mere 16.484° south of the equator.

Luckily, I managed to just miss a couple the cyclones that were whipping up and down the coast. Join me for some wet wanders:

Plastic chairs on a rainy beach, Mission Beach, Queensland Australia

Mission Beach
The coastal town of Mission Beach has a tropical-monsoon climate. One of the rainiest parts of the Wet Tropics, it has an average annual precipitation of around 3,000 mm (1800 inches). I felt like it all fell while I was there! (18February2021 – iPhone12Pro)

Dunk Island through rain from Mission Beach, Queensland Australia

Dunk Island in the Rain
Mission Beach is the closest point to the Great Barrier Reef; Dunk Island, a popular resort location, floats off on the horizon just four kilometres away. (18February2021 – iPhone12Pro)

Closeup: white berries and green leaves, Flaky Barked Satinash, Mission Beach, Queensland Australia

Flaky Barked Satinash – Syzygium Forte
As you’d expect, everything grows lush and fast in the tropics. (18February2021 – iPhone12Pro)

Looking south over Four Mile Beach, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia

Four Mile Beach
My accommodation in Port Douglas backed onto the aptly named Four Mile Beach. (20February2021 – iPhone12Pro)

Lifesaver in a sand buggy, Four Mile Beach, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia

Lifesaver in a Sand Buggy
Four Mile Beach was quiet in the mornings, even so, the lifesavers were on patrol: think Baywatch or Bondi Rescue. (20February2021 – iPhone12Pro)

Rocks on the north end of Four Mile Beach, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia

Mangroves and Rocks
A rocky headland marks the north end of Four Mile Beach. Walking into ‘downtown’ from this point, I could treat myself to a beautiful breakfast. (20February2021 – iPhone12Pro)

Two bush stone-curlews near a chain-link fence, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia

Bush Stone-Curlew – Burhinus Grallarius
Also called bush thick-knees, these large distinctive shorebirds are endemic to Australia, and are commonly seen near the coast. (21February2021)

A tourist on a Segway, Four Mile Beach, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia

On a Segway
I decided to play tourist, and went for a Segway tour of Four Mile Beach. Luckily I was the only one, as I found that it took a bit of getting used to! (21February2021 – NMI)

Scrubfowl in the undergrowth, Four Mile Beach, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia

Orange-Footed Scrubfowl – Megapodius Reinwardt
Ranging across northern Australia and neighbouring New Guinea, scrubfowl are well camouflaged in the leaf litter at the edge of the scrub. (21February2021)

Port Douglas Wharf and Storage Shed viewed from town, Queensland Australia

Port Douglas Wharf and Storage Shed
I got a closer look at this historic heritage-listed wharf and shed, built in 1904, from the water the next day (see: On Port Douglas Waters). (21February2021)

A tourist on a raft, the Mossman River, Queensland Australia

On the Mossman River
Playing tourist again, I found myself rafting on the nearby Mossman River through UNESCO-listed rainforest. (22February2021 – NMI)

Rocks on the north end of Four Mile Beach, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia

Top of the Beach
My walk along Four Mile Beach every morning was a real treat. (23February2021 – iPhone12Pro)

View south around Flagstaff Hill, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia

The Viewing Platform on Flagstaff Hill
The climb up Flagstaff Hill makes for a nice walk … (23February2021 – iPhone12Pro)

View south from Flagstaff Hill, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia

Mountains and Cloud
… and allows great views over the coastline and sea. (23February2021 – iPhone12Pro)

Casuarinas, mangroves and coconuts on Four Mile Beach, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia

Casuarinas, Mangroves and Coconuts
Another morning – another beachwalk. (25February2021 – iPhone12Pro)

Mushroom Ragout at Choochoos@the Marina, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia

Mushroom Ragout
All my meals were a real treat; … (25February2021 – iPhone12Pro)

Magpie Lark, Choochoos at the Marina, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia

Magpie Lark – Grallina Cyanoleuca
… obviously the peewee with his eye on my breakfast agrees. (25February2021 – iPhone12Pro)

Closeup: Casuarina needles and cones, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia

Casuarina Needles and Cones
(25February2021 – iPhone12Pro)

Clumps of grass in a puddle, Port Douglas, Queensland Australia

Grass in a Rainy Season Puddle
(25February2021 – iPhone12Pro)

Quirky metal sculpture of a praying mantis, walkway, Barron Gorge National Park, Queensland Australia

Praying Mantis
Driving south out of Port Douglas, I pulled into the charming mountain village of Kuranda, and then stopped at the Barron Gorge National Park. Metal sculptures line the path to the viewing platform over Barron (Din Din) Falls. I’ve been here before – but I don’t remember the sculptures – or even the nice, level walkway! (26February2021)

Giant Golden Orb-Weaving Spider, Barron Gorge National Park, Queensland Australia

Giant Golden Orb-Weaving Spider – Nephila Pilipes
This beautiful creature along the walkway is one of Australia’s largest spiders. (26February2021)

Barron Falls, Queensland Australia

Barron Falls
In spite of all the recent rains, there is not much water in the waterfall. The last two times I was here, the falls were roaring full.

Kuranda Scenic Railway train in the station, Barron Falls, Queensland Australia

Kuranda Scenic Railway
The first time I was here, we rode the heritage-listed tourist railway service from Cairns, over the Great Dividing Range, through the sugarcane fields of the Atherton Tablelands, and alighted in Kuranda. (26February2021)

Kuranda Scenic Railway train in the station, Barron Falls, Queensland Australia

Kuranda Rail Conductor
The line was built in 1891; some of the cars look almost that old! I felt rather nostalgic staying behind in the station and watching the train pull away in the rain. (26February2021)

Vines criss-crossing on a tropical tree trunk, Barron Falls, Queensland Australia

Nature’s Artworks : Lattice Vines and Greenery
After the train pulls out, I walk back up the hill …

Tree leaves, Barron Falls, Queensland Australia

Nature’s Patterns : Leaves Overhead
… admiring the jungle around me as I go. (26February2021)

Variegated tree bark, Barron Falls, Queensland Australia

Almost Abstract : Tree Bark
(26February2021)

View from the Henry Ross Lookout, Queensland Australia

View from the Henry Ross Lookout
My last stop on the way into Cairns was at the highest point on the Kuranda Range road. Here, we can lookout over Cairns, its northern beaches, Trinity Bay, and the Coral Sea beyond. (26February2021 – iPhone12Pro)

The story of Travelling North was originally a play (1979) – which takes place in in Northern NSW, not Far North Queensland. I’ve been lucky enough to see the iconic Brian Brown in a more recent re-staging of the play (see: Stage Whispers). Of course, I had to pay more attention to the actors and the dialogue, because that wonderful, embracing tropical jungle wasn’t part of the cast.

I am so grateful to have visited it for myself.

Pictures: 17-26February2021

Red tiled roofs of Foix from the castle, France

Foix from the Château
The rain scrubs the rooftops of Foix as the little city drifts off into the clouds.

It was a lifetime ago.

My husband and I had trudged into the Medieval town of Foix in the Occitanie region of southwestern France at the end of a 12-day walk along the Cathar Trail in the Pyrenees (see: Castles, Countryside, and the end of the Trail). As we descended through the foothills towards the town, it started to rain, making the central fortress – the Château des Comtes de Foix – looks like a fairy-tale castle in the mist.

We were lucky enough to arrive just as serious rains were setting in – but the inclement spring weather didn’t stop us getting out to explore the sights the next day.

Today, Foix is known as a centre of the Catharism, an early Christian movement. The Cathars, or Albigensians, thrived in Southern Europe between the 12th and 14th centuries, but attracted the ire of the more powerful Catholic Church. From 1209 to 1229, under the reign of Pope Innocent III, they were subjected to the Albigensian Crusade; this and the Medieval Inquisitions that followed succeeded in eradicating the sect by 1350.

The history of Foix goes back further: to a Roman-built fort on the steep rock on which the castle now stands, dominating the town below. The current Château, known from 987, was built onto older 7th-century fortifications. Property of the Counts of Foix, feudal lords of the region, the fortress resisted repeated sieges for two centuries and became a refuge for many of the persecuted Cathars.

Restored in the 19th century and operating as a museum since 1930, the building we see today includes sections dating between the 12th and 15th century. During the 18th and 19th centuries, the medieval towers were repurposed as a prison (see: Stories Hidden in 18th-19th Century Graffiti); iron bars on the windows and strong doors with heavy locks are a reminder of this period.

Join us as we explore:

Hound in the lobby of a French hotel, Foix.

Everywhere a Dog
This is France – dogs are everywhere. This one kept guard in the dark lobby of our hotel.

Church Cross, Saint-Volusien abbey church, Foix France.

Church Cross
Catholicism is strong in this region.

Street leading to the Saint-Volusien abbey church, Foix France.

Foix in the Rain
There is something romantic about a couple sharing an umbrella.

Bell tower of the Saint-Volusien abbey church, Foix France.

Church Clock and Bells
Built in 849, the Saint-Volusien Abbey church stands on the site of an oratory founded by Charlemagne, King of the Franks.

Stone water fountain, Foix France.

Fountain under the Castle Stairs

People on the path from the Château de Foix, France

Wet Walk to the Castle
It’s a wet and winding walk between the fortress and the town.

Stone walls, Château de Foix, France

Stone Walls
The castle walls are textured and beautiful – and have seen centuries of change.

Iron window bars, Château de Foix, France

Foix through the Rails
Iron bars on the windows in the towers are a reminder of the castle’s use as a political and civil prison until 1862.

Graffiti
The carvings in the wall here are attributed to prisoners incarcerated in this cell. Toward the lower left, you can see a Crusader’s Cross.

Vaulted ceiling inside the Château de Foix, France

Vaulted Ceiling

Iron window bars, Château de Foix, France

Foix through the Window
Another iron-barred window over the rainy city.

Metal sculpture, Château de Foix, France

Femmes et Catharisme
I love when old castles include modern art – like this elegant sculpture by Jeannie Lucas.

Square tower, Château de Foix, France

From the Battlements
A view over one of the two square towers built before the 11th century.

Brick battlement wall, Château de Foix, France

Through the Battlements

Stone walls, Château de Foix, France

More Walls and Windows

Cobbled street, Foix France.

Cobbled Street
After the castle, we worked our way back down through charming streets …

Stairway, Foix France.

Rue des Grands Ducs
… and narrow cobbled walkways between and under medieval half-timber buildings.

Wet vine leaves, Foix France.

Greenery – Grapes?

Fountain in Pyrène Square
Artwork around the city ranges from the quirky …

Statue of Saint Volusian, St Volusian Abbey Foix France

Saint Volusian
… to the divine – like this statue in the St Volusian Abbey.

The “Goose” Fountain, Foix France

The “Goose” Fountain
Yes, it is actually a swan – I have no idea why they call it a goose.

The “Goose” Fountain, Foix France

Swan in the Street
At least the rain has stopped!

Foix and the Château, France

Foix and the Château
The next morning as we are heading for our train, we get a last look at the castle above the old town.

Definitely a delightful place for a short stop!

Until next time,

Bon Voyage!

Pictures: 23-24April2011

Dryad Point Lighthouse from the ferry, Bella Bella, BC, Canada

The Dryad Point Lighthouse
Even on a cold and rainy spring day, the scenery is spectacular from the BC Ferry that winds up the channels between Port Hardy on Vancouver Island and Prince Rupert on Canada’s mainland.

A boat trip up the Inside Passage has been on my Bucket List since I was a working student in the 70s when it was well out of my price-point. This classic trip – from Seattle or Vancouver to Juneau or Skagway in Alaska – is known for its magnificent scenery.

And it remains elusive to me. 

A few years ago, I thought I was making my last trip back to Canada. To make myself feel better about that prospect, I toyed with variations of that iconic cruise only to find that – if I was being remotely sensible – they were still outside my reach!

So, I settled on the next-best-thing: a BC Ferry trip up the Canadian portion of this inimitable waterway.

British Columbia (BC) in Canada’s west has a coastline that is punctuated by over 40,000 islands of varying sizes, and deeply incised by coves, rivers, and fjords that rival those of Norway. Much of the landscape is mountainous and covered in dense temperate rainforest. The traditional inhabitants, the Coastal Salish nations, typically built their villages near navigable waterways for easy transportation, and they relied on seaworthy canoes for much of their daily activity. 

Even today, a lot of the province is only accessible by water.

The BC Ferries was founded in 1960 to act as an extension of the public road system. The federal and provincial governments subsidized the organisation to provide essential services between the BC mainland, the coastal islands, and parts of the mainland with no road access. Today, it operates as an independently managed, publicly owned Canadian company – with the provincial Crown as sole shareholder.

The deep and sheltered waterways of the Inside Passage provide a shipping lane protected from the rough waters and bad weather typical of the open North Pacific. This maritime route is heavily trafficked by all manner of marine vessels, including pleasure boats, working boats, cruise ships, cargo ships, and – of course –  ferries, that service major and minor routes all along the coast. The magical and poignant book: Passage to Juneau: A Sea and Its Meanings, by British travel writer and playwright Jonathan Raban, offers a unique insight into the history and landscape of these waters.

The BC Ferries operate a regular service between Port Hardy (see: The Fort Rupert Trail) on the northern tip of Vancouver Island and Prince Rupert on the northwest coast of the British Columbia mainland.

I duly booked passage for myself and my rental car, and set off north.

BC Ferry in the Bear Cove terminal in the morning rain, Canada

In the Bear Cove Terminal
The very modern-looking ferry takes about 16 hours to wind its way up to its final destination – and cars are expected to present themselves between 120 and 90 minutes before sailing. So, it’s an early morning start on a long day – and it is raining! (iPhone12Pro)

Lifeboat on a BC Ferry, Inside Passage, Canada.

Lifeboat
The Northern Expedition ferry was built in 2004. She can take a maximum of 87 cars and 640 people – including crew. It pays to book ahead!

Silhouetted seats and windows, BC Ferry, Inside Passage, Canada.

Front Row Seats
Cabins are available onboard, but I booked myself a seat in the lounge instead. That way I could wander freely without too much concern for my belongings, or just sit and enjoy the view.

BC Ferries flag on a rainy prow, Inside Passage, Canada.

BC Ferries Flag on the Prow
Of course, the view was mostly rain and mist …

Raindrops and slight waves on empty water, Inside Passage, Canada.

Nature’s Abstracts
… and stretches of calm water.

Misty cloudy mountains, Inside Passage, Canada.

Into the Mist

Addenbroke Island Lightstation from a BC Ferry, Inside Passage, Canada.

Addenbroke Island Lightstation on Fitz Hugh Sound
The passage is not without hazards, and cheerfully picturesque lighthouses punctuate the trees. What a solitary life this must be!

Disney Wonder on the Inside Passage, Canada.

Disney Wonder
A much bigger ship than ours passes to our port, heading south.

Radar equipment and flags on a BC Ferry, the Inside Passage, Canada.

Radar and Flags

Rainy weather, the Inside Passage, Canada.

Islands in the Clouds

Seaforth Channel Marker on Denny Island, Inside Passage, Canada.

Seaforth Channel Marker
On the rocks off Denny Island, a marker signals the safe path.

McLoughlin Bay Terminal, Inside Passage, Canada.

McLoughlin Bay Terminal
On the other side of the channel, we make a short stop on Campbell Island, just south of the community of Bella Bella/Waglisla, to exchange goods and passengers.

Wooden houses of Bella Bella, Inside Passage, Canada.

Bella Bella
The candy-coloured houses of Bella Bella stretch out along the channel.

Red working boat on Seaforth Channel, Inside Passage, Canada.

Working Boat on Seaforth Channel
Once home to a Hudson Bay fort, Methodist missionaries, and a thriving cannery, today the predominantly Heiltsuk First Nation community of Bella Bella has a precarious and relatively isolated existence.

Dryad Point Lighthouse, Inside Passage, Canada.

Dryad Point Lighthouse
Towards the top of Campbell Island, the heritage-listed lighthouse signals our sharp turn from Seaforth Channel into Lama Passage.

Boat Bluff Lighthouse, Inside Passage, Canada.

Boat Bluff Lighthouse
A couple of hours later, we are passing what is one of the rainiest places in Canada: the heritage-listed lighthouse on Boat Bluff on Sarah Island.

Butedale buildings and waterfall, Inside Passage, Canada.

Butedale
With a snow-dusted mountain behind, the impressive Butedale Falls on Princess Royal Island flow into Hecate Strait. Ruins of the ghost-town of Butedale, founded in 1918 as a fishing, mining, and logging camp, are nearby.

Waterfall, Inside Passage, Canada.

Another Waterfall

View through a wet window on a wet BC Ferry, Inside Passage, Canada.

Misty Mountains
The weather remains wet, windy, and cold, and I spend a lot of time sheltering behind wet windows. (iPhone12Pro)

Canadian flag on the stern of a BC Ferry, the Inside Passage.

Flying the Flag

Rainy weather, the Inside Passage, Canada.

Fading Layers
The day grows long, and many mountainous islands fall behind us.

Rainy weather, the Inside Passage, Canada.

Catching Clouds
Mists continue to gather in the tall trees …

Rainy weather, the Inside Passage, Canada.

In our Wake
… and our wake marks a trail through snow-caps and rain clouds.

View through a wet window on a wet BC Ferry, Inside Passage, Canada.

Almost Abstract: Misty Mountains
(iPhone12Pro)

Night lights on the Port of Prince Rupert from a BC Ferry, Canada.

Night Lights – City Limits
At 11:30PM, we finally sight the welcoming lights on the Port of Prince Rupert. This is the deepest ice-free natural harbour in North America, and the third deepest natural harbour in the world – making it a very busy place. (iPhone12Pro)

I finally reached my room at just before midnight, very ready to lie down.

What magnificent scenery! What lousy weather! I decided to try the trip again, the next year, with fingers crossed for better weather.

Text: Safe Sailing

Until then,

Safe Sailing!

Pictures: 05June2022