.jpg) Hungarian Parliament Buildings
It is impossibly romantic: sitting on a boat on the Danube, cruising noiselessly past the fronts of Budapest’s floodlit ancient buildings, under a sky full of stars. It is no wonder that Budapest is called one of the most beautiful cities in Europe!
Approaching it from the Danube River that runs between what were originally the separate cities of Buda on the right bank and Pest on the left, renders it magical: this section of old city along the Banks of the Danube, together with the Buda Castle Quarter and Andrássy Avenue have been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987 for being an “outstanding example of urban development in Central Europe, characterised by periods of devastation and revitalisation.”
For my husband and myself, Budapest was the last port-of-call on what had been the most perfect of cruises down the Danube River from Passau (for previous posts, see: Ursula’s Weekly Wanders “Danube”). This final city held extra poignancy because my husband’s mother was from here, and he still has relatives living in the area – some of whom we managed to meet.
But, even without the family connection, the city is a gem, easily explored on foot and using public transport. We had the luxury of arriving by canal boat, allowing us to enjoy the incomparable views from the river. We also made use of the guide provided with our “package” to accompany our walk across the famous Szechenyi Chain Bridge, facilitate our ride up the Budapest Castle Hill Funicular, and show us the way around Buda Castle Hill, before we wandered back through the Pest side of the city on our own.
This is just a sampling of the wonderful buildings and other sights.
.jpg) Margaret Bridge
As we finally draw past Margaret Island and head under the second oldest public bridge (1872-1876) in Budapest – the Margaret Bridge (Margit Híd) – the Hungarian Parliament Building comes into view. .jpg) Hungarian Parliament Buildings
The magnificent Gothic Revival parliament building was designed to face the river, and built (1885-1896) to prize-winning plans by Hungarian architect Imre Steindl.  Buda Reformed Church
Szilágyi Dezső Square Reformed Church is a 19th century (built 1894-1896) Protestant church on the Buda side of the Danube. The Chain Bridge – Széchenyi Lánchíd
Budapest’s most famous bridge, the Chain Bridge, was the city’s first permanent bridge over the Danube. Originally built between 1842 and 1849, it was destroyed during the siege of the city in 1945, and rebuilt in its original form between 1947 and 1949. Through the Porthole
Buda Castle sits high on Castle Hill as we cruise into our Danube River docking site. Stone Lion (1852)
Once our boat is moored, we head out on our walking tour across the Chain Bridge. Stone lions carved by Hungarian sculptor Marschalko János (1818-1877) stand guard at each bridgehead. Széchenyi Lánchíd – Széchenyi Chain Bridge
The 375 metres (1,230 ft) suspension bridge across the Danube was designed by the English engineer William Tierney Clark in 1839, and named for its champion, Count István Széchenyi. Locks on the Chain Bridge
Lovers add their modern marks to the old bridge. Funicular to Buda Castle
On the Buda side of the Chain Bridge, we come to Budavári Sikló, the funicular that will take us up to Budapest Castle Hill. When it was first opened in 1870, this was only the second funicular rail in Europe. It was destroyed during the Second World War and rebuilt to the original design in 1983. Eszter at the Turnstile
Our local guide eases our way onto the funicular for our short ride to the top. Budapest from the Hill
From Buda Hill we have a wonderful view over the Danube, and the Parliament of Hungary. Habsburg Gate – Entrance to the Royal Palace
The historical castle and palace complex here have been rebuilt many times over the years: most recently by the Habsburgs, long-time Austrian rulers of the Kingdom of Hungary . Habsburg Gate
Intricate wrought ironwork is typical of the Baroque style favoured across the current palace – built between 1749 and 1769. Entrance to the Royal Palace
Today, the castle area houses the Hungarian National Gallery, the Castle Museum, the National Széchenyi Library, and also includes extensive empty spaces and old ruins. Széchenyi Chain Bridge from Buda Hill Souvenirs and Handicrafts
The cobblestone streets on Buda Hill are lined with baroque houses, Habsburg monuments, parks, coffee shops, and handicrafts shops. Tárnok Street, Buda Budai Várnegyed – Buda Castle District
We have plenty of room as we walk towards the Cathedral of St Matthias and Trinity Square, with the Plague Tower standing tall in front of the neo-Gothic House of the Hungarian Culture Foundation. Baroque Trinity Column
All over Central Europe in the 17th century, survivors of the Great Plague of 1679 built Plague Columns, either incorporating the Virgin Mary or the Holy Trinity, to give thanks for their deliverance. Matthias Church
The Church of Our Lady – more commonly called Matthias Church (Mátyás-templom), for King Matthias Corvinus the Fair – was built in late Gothic style in the 14th century, and extensively restored in the late 19th century. The intricate roofline with its colourful tiles is quite beautiful. Halászbástya – Fisherman’s Bastion
The courtyard around the Fisherman’s Bastion (1895 – 1902), a seven-turreted 19th-century fortress, was undergoing work when we visited, … Fisherman’s Bastion
… but it was still fascinating walking around this unusual structure. The seven towers (two of which are pictured here) represent the seven Magyar (Hungarian) tribes that settled in the Carpathian Basin in 895. Reflections of the Magyars Joseph (József Nádor), Archduke of Austria and Hungary
We enjoyed glorious weather, as we wandered back through the public squares … Layers of Handicraft
… and shops of downtown Budapest, … Széchenyi Chain Bridge and Matthias Church
… before returning to our boat to admire the dazzling display of Budapest night lights from the river. Royal Palace
The palace on Buda Hill, and the funicular we rode up to walk around it, look very different after dark!  What a beautiful city! It is indeed – as UNESCO puts it – an outstanding urban landscape.
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 22August2014
Posted in Architecture,Europe,Hungary,TravelTags: architecture,blog,Buda Castle Hill,Budapest,Danube,Hungary,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
Baris War Dance
A Baris Tunggal dancer (that is, a solo Baris dancer) performs his stylised routine at the Balai Banjar Ubud Kelod in Bali. Balinese dance is an integral part of life on this tiny Indonesian island.
Bali has a richness of unique culture that is immediately apparent to its many tourist-visitors. The productiveness of its lush, terraced rice fields and its relatively equitable division of food and labour have allowed the people time to develop and expand their religious and cultural traditions, and to express these through art, carving, music and dance.
In Bali, dance and drama are interchangeable: age-old dance-drama stories are depicted through precise, stylised movements: movements that include defined body-shape and placement; finger, hand and arm gestures; and the quick, bird-like motions of the neck, head and eyes. The makeup and costuming are as much a part of the ancient traditions as the dances themselves.
Balinese children learn the more important dances from an early age – “dancing” with their hands before they can walk. Formal training can start as young as age five. Legong (“leg” meaning “beautiful movements” and “gong” meaning “melodious sound”) dancers, in particular, were traditionally recruited from the ablest and prettiest children. By fourteen, these dancers were approaching retirement – although the performers in tourist shows these days tend to be older.
Basically, whether classical or contemporary, Balinese dances fall into three broad genres: 1) sacred religious and ceremonial dances, some rooted in Hindu epic stories – like the ubiquitous Ramayana saga depicting the divine Prince Rama’s efforts to rescue his wife Sita from a demon king ; 2) semi-sacred dances featuring masked dancers, and depicting battles between good and evil – like the mythical evil witch Rangda versus the lion or dragon Barong, who represents good; and 3) entertainment dances, including the classical Legong, performed at social gatherings and for tourists. In 2015, UNESCO inscribed these three form of dance as examples of “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity”.
Of course, you don’t have to know any of this to enjoy a Balinese dance performance. My husband and I didn’t, when we bought our Rp.75,000 ($USD5.50) tickets for the Sunday evening performance of the Sanggar Pondok Pekak dance troupe at the Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod hall in Ubud. As my very old (1999) Lonely Planet Bali & Lombok (7th ed) put it: “The most important thing about Balinese dances is that they’re fun and accessible. Balinese dance … can be exciting and enjoyable for almost anyone with just the slightest effort.”
And it was true: the lively rhythms, wonderful costumes and comical facial expressions made the dances great fun to watch.
Banjar Ubud Kelod
The front of the Legong Dance performance hall is marked in typical Balinese style. Wall Relief inside Banjar Ubud Kelod The Empty Stage
As we find seats in the auditorium, we can admire the finish on the small stage. The Musicians Enter
The first performers to take the stage are the musicians from the gamelan orchestra. Gamelan Musicians
A gamelan orchestra includes metallophones, played by mallets, hand-played drums, … Gamelan Musicians
… xylophones, flutes, gongs, voices, and strings. Sekar Jagat Welcome Dance
The first dance is a group of young women in their fantastic makeup and headdress, making a ritual offering to welcome the audience – and any gods that might be in attendance. Baris War Dance
Baris dances are traditional war dances in three parts: depicting the studied and careful movements of a young warrior before battle, glorifying the self-assurance of the triumphant Balinese warrior, and displaying the his commanding heroic presence. Baris War Dance
The richly embroidered costume includes ornate fabric panels, known as awiran, which hang from his body over white leggings called celana. Legong Dancer
Legong dances are characterised by intricate finger movements, complicated footwork, and exaggerated facial expressions. Legong Dancers
The Legong Kraton (“Legend of the Palace”) Dance, features two identically dressed dancers and an attendant. Legong Dancers
The pair of legong dancers in their tight silk and gold costumes mirror each another’s movements. Gamelan Musicians Kebyar Dancer
Kebyar dances are abstract non-narrative solo dances in which the focus is upon the dancer him- or herself. Kebyar Dance
Much of the contemporary Kebyar Duduk (Taruna Jaya) dance from North Bali is performed in a sitting position. Oleg Tambulilingan
Choreographed in 1952, Oleg Tambulilingan is a duet depicting the courtship of two bumblebees. Oleg Dancer
Those eyes! The female bumblebee flits from flower to flower in a beautiful garden. Oleg Tambulilingan
The male bumblebee tries to attract the female’s attention. Jauk Dancer
The Jauk Dance is a classical solo mask dance dating to the 18th century. The masked dancer improvises as a playful, but sinister demon. Taking Bows
At the end of an entertaining and eventful program of modern and classical pieces, the performers bid us good evening. It was a most enjoyable glimpse into rich Balinese cultural and story-telling traditions, and it was without reservation that we booked into our next taste of Balinese performance: a Kecak show at Tanah Lot. More about that some other time (see: Tari Kecak, Uluwatu) …
Until then,
Happy Travels!
Photos: 29January2017
Posted in Bali,Culture,Dance,Indonesia,TravelTags: Bali,dance,dancer,environmental portrait,hindu,Indonesia,performance,performers,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Prayer Lamps
It makes for a peaceful moment of simple reflection: lighting a small lamp while saying a prayer of gratitude or supplication. What better way to mark our overnight stay at Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery at Namo Buddha in the Kathmandu Valley Rim! Prayers and dal bhat for breakfast.
It doesn’t get much simpler than that.
An overnight stay at the guesthouse at the Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, some 40 kilometres from Kathmandu, Nepal, is like stepping into another world: a timeless space where the drone of Tibetan Buddhist chanting – punctuated by gongs and cymbals – resonates through the crisp, crystal clear mountain air.
Life for visitors to the monastery is uncomplicated: join the monks for evening and morning prayers (or not) before partaking of basic vegetarian meals. But, you don’t have to opt out of the modern world completely; although the guesthouse has no television, radio or telephones, my local phone package allowed me to access my email and Instagram, and the nearby Thrangu Café on site has meals, coffee, and soft-drinks for those who don’t want to forgo lunch, treats, or caffeine.
A friend and I were in Nepal for a few days ahead of a workshop out of Kathmandu with photographer Gavin Gough, and the opportunity to go for a trek was too good to pass up. Under the watchful eye of local guide Angfula Sherpa, we were to spend four days along sections of the Kathmandu Valley Cultural Trekking Trail. So far, we had managed our first day: driving from Kathmandu to Panuti, and walking from there to Namo Buddha (see: Dirt Music and Sunshine, and Light and Dark in the Windows and Doors).
The Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, founded in 1979 by Thrangu Rinpoche, was a wonderful bonus after our day’s walk. It sits at 1738 meters, at the top of Gandha Malla Hill above the Namo Buddha Stupa, treating the visitor to glorious sunrises, sunsets, and views over the foothills and the snow-capped Himalaya.
Namo Buddha is one of the most important Buddhist religious sites in Nepal. It was near here, so the story goes, that a prince by the name of Mahasattva, was out walking with his two brothers when he came across a tigress. She was trying to nurse five cubs, but was starving and about to die. Prince Sattva (rather generously, one would think!) offered the tigress his blood and flesh so that she and the cubs might survive. The bones – all that remained of him – were buried under a stupa at the nearby village. Some 3500 years later, the Gautam Buddha walked three times around the stupa, then declared that he was the reincarnation of Mahasattva. The village was renamed “Namo Buddha” which means “Hommage to Buddha”.
It is possible to get to the monastery by car or public transport, and while we were staying, buses and car loads of pilgrims and tourists arrived at the road head.
Still, I think I enjoyed the stillness and the views all the more for having “earned” them with a nice long walk!
Afternoon Light
After we settle into our rooms at the Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery Guesthouse, we head over to the main temple. It is just after five in the evening, and the late winter sun puts a glow in the buildings around us. No photos can be taken in the rooms inside. Monastery Kitchen
The kitchen has to cater for the more than 250 resident monks, and for visitors like us. It is big, and the stacks of stainless steel dishes are spotless. (iPhone6) View from the Temple
The hills and the delicate skies roll off quietly into the distance while the monks chant their evening prayers upstairs. (iPhone6) Sunrise over the Namo Buddha Hills
We are up early the next morning to attend the monks’ morning prayers before breakfast. Just before six am, the sun warms the sky over the hills around us. (iPhone6) Morning around Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery
Early sun lights the terraced hills around the monastery, and the morning mists hang low in the valleys. Novices and a Dog
About 70 young monks reside and study at the monastery school. I’m sure the animals are some comfort to young boys living away from their homes. Into the Kitchen
Of course, the young students are kept busy with morning chores; these two are heading into the dark kitchen, … Monks on the Path
… while others are rushing between buildings around the complex. Morning Layers
The morning mists rise slowly. In mid-March it is still winter, and the the mountain air at 7.30am is cool. Stone Statue of the Lord Buddha
This Buddha, with hands in Bhumisparsha mudra (or “earth witness” hand gesture – representing touching the earth at the moment of the his enlightenment), is speaking to his first disciples. Stone Statue of the Lord Buddha
The vase between the Buddha and his disciples represents the container holding the bones of Mahasattva – an earlier incarnation of Buddha Shakyamuni – who fed his body to a tigress on the hill near here. Prayer Flags
There are prayers flags everywhere, fluttering their messages of peace, strength, compassion, and wisdom on the wind to inspire all people. Lungta Prayer Flags
Lungta (wind horse) flags are squares of cloth strung on a line in the colours of the five Tibetan elements: blue for the sky, white for the wind, red representing fire, green symbolising water, and yellow for the earth. Endless Skies
The sky and the mountains stretch out forever. Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery
From the hill, we can look back over the monastery, and appreciate the size and beauty of the complex. Woman Looking after a Shrine
Walking along the ridge, we pass shrines; the people tending them greet us eagerly and usher us in. Angfula and the Lamps
In the shrine area, prayer flags can be bought and blessed, the right to light lamps can be bought, and donations can be made. Prayer Lamps
Light symbolises the wisdom that drives away darkness. Candles and Coins Den of the Mother Tiger
This is where Mahasattva – a previous incarnation of Gautama Buddha – offered a starving tigress his blood and flesh to save her life and that of her cubs. Mountains on the Haze
Snow-capped Himalaya float on the clouds and haze over the terraced hills of the Kathmandu Valley. Angfula on the Dirt Path Down
There is no more time to explore: we need to make a start on our day’s walk. Angfula sets off down the dirt track towards the town of Namo Buddha. Rhododendron
Flowers sit high in the trees over our heads … Namo Buddha Stupa
… as the stupu built over Prince Sattva’s bones come into sight. We had more walking in the fresh Nepali mountain air in front of us –
and I was looking forward to every step!
Until next time,
Namaste!
Pictures: 6-7March2017
Posted in Nepal,Religious Practice,TravelTags: architecture,buddhism,buddhist,environmental portrait,Namo Buddha,Nepal,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
“Captain Sponge”
Brett Weingarth, better known as “Sponge”, takes groups out onto Pambula Lake and Pambula River to visit the oyster leases and learn about oysters and oyster farming. It is always a joy to meet someone who loves their work!
Brett Weingarth is an oyster farmer who is so excited about oysters, and the environment they grow in, that he conducts regular tours of the oyster leases on the tidal waters of Pambula Lake (Broadwater), just off Australia’s southeastern Sapphire Coast. Brett grew up “dryland” farming, but moved off the land and onto the water during one of Australia’s worst droughts. He now operates a number of oyster leases on Pambula Lake, the Pambula River, and nearby Merimbula Lake. In the process of learning about oyster farming, Brett has also become knowledgeable about region’s coastal waterways and passionate about protecting them. Oysters have been called the ‘canaries of the waterway’– they are an indicator of estuarine health. Therefore, environmental protection projects and local small business models go hand-in-hand.
The waters here are special: this is where the warm, fast flowing East Australian Current, which originates in the tropical Coral Sea, meets and clashes with the cold, nutrient-filled waters running north from Antarctica. The confluence of these two currents results in a rich marine bio-diversity – and a thriving seafood industry. Branded under “Australia’s Oyster Coast”, Pambula oyster growers take advantage of the daily tidal exchange of waters rushing in from the Pacific Ocean, and the fresh water flowing out from the Pambula and Yowaka Rivers, producing three premium export-quality oyster species: endemic Sydney Rock Oysters, the rarer native Angasi, and the popular Pacific Oysters introduced from Japan.
Although the weather didn’t really favour us the day we had booked for our Oyster Tour, at least we didn’t have to get up too early. The tide-tables meant that our Boxing Day tour left around noon, rather than the usual crack-of-dawn start! That gave us plenty of time to digest our Christmas lunch from the day before, and find the jetty that “Captain Sponge’s Magical Oyster Tours” calls home.
Captain Sponge’s Oversized Oyster Punt
The “Magical Oyster Tours” boat is functional and sheltered enough for the two-hour cruise around the estuary. Licensed to carry a maximum of 23 people, our smaller group – once they all arrived – had plenty of room on the cushioned benches. Introductory Briefing
Before we push away from the shore, Brett gives us the requisite safety briefing. Oyster Shells on the Shore
And we are off! There is evidence of rich oyster life everywhere we look. For thousand of years before European settlement, Thaua Aboriginal people of the Yuin Nation caught and ate oysters here: all around the coastline, there are ancient kitchen middens piled high with shells. Oyster Shack
On both sides of the river, oyster trays are tied together on the waters. This tiny oyster shack sports an Australia’s Oyster Coast (AOC) sign, indicating it is part of the AOC growers’ collective. Disused Oyster Frames Mangroves on the Foreshore
Mangroves are uniquely adapted to brackish tidal waters. In turn, they help protect the shorelines where they live: their roots and breathing tubes reduce erosion, capture nutrients, and shelter small creatures from waves and water movement. Recreation on the River
The extensive twists and arms of the Pambula River make for popular recreation sites – especially in the middle of an Australian summer. Kayaks
Holiday-makers are out with kayaks … Jet Skis at the Dock
… power boats and jet skis. Aluminium Tinnie at the Oyster Shed
I guess the oysters aren’t too worried by all the other activity on the water. Nor do they care about public holidays. People are busy at work at the Broadwater Oyster’s buildings. Double Kayak
I always laugh when I see two people in a kayak: I had an instructor who called these double kayaks “divorce boats”. It can be difficult for two people to stay coordinated, leading to potential struggles maintaining the desired direction. “Oyster Farm 81/091”
There are countless farms on the lake. In numbered lots, oyster baskets stretch out on the waves, … Neat Rows
… running in straight lines in all directions, … Oyster Lease
… or straining in curves against the currents. Clearly, every farmer has their preferred method of growing these popular bivalve molluscs. Working the Farm
There is a lot of work in oyster farming, but Brett says he loves being on the water and choosing his own hours. Oyster Beds
Oysters need to be tumbled around in a semi-controlled way or their shells will become too thin and flat. The trays are covered, protecting them from the sun and from predators. Brett Goes Overboard!
Brett hangs off the side of his punt … Lifting the Lid
… to check the size and health of his crop. Oysters in their Frame Fruits of the Farm
Oysters have to be eaten (or cooked or processed) fresh. Tour participants had the opportunity to “shuck” fresh oysters with different purpose-built knives before we all got to taste-test the produce. Sapphire Waters
As we are heading back to the dock, there is a break in the weather and the sapphire waters that give this stretch of coastline its name shine through. Wild Oats XI
Before heading home for the day, we stopped at another wharf, one town over: Snug Cove, in Eden, where the crippled maxi yacht Wild Oats XI had limped in after failing to complete the Sydney to Hobart yacht race because of a broken hydraulic ram. There is always something interesting happening on our local waters.
 Our oyster tour was most enjoyable, informative, and – best of all – tasty!
Until next time,
Safe Sailing!
Photos: 26December2016
Posted in Aquaculture,Australia,WorkTags: animals,aquaculture,Australia,boats,landscape,nature,Photo Blog,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,waterscape,work
Managing her Eagle
Training golden eagles to hunt is physically and mentally demanding. Young Nurguli needs all her strength and a great deal of focus to call her eagle to come to her from a perch at the top of the hill and to land on her gloved arm. The eagle gets fresh fox meat as a reward. She’s not the first, and she’s not the only one, but she is still a rarity these days: a female Kazakh eagle hunter.
Hunting with golden eagles is a long-standing custom among the Turkic peoples (particularly the Kazakh and Kyrgyz) across the Eurasian steppe. During the 1930s, large numbers of Kazakhs fled from communist-controlled Kazakhstan through the Altai Mountains to Bayan-Ölgii Province in the western corner of Mongolia. They brought with them their Kazakh language and Muslim religion, their pastoral-nomadic lifestyle, and their tradition of hunting with eagles.
One report I read suggested there are “as few as 60 authentic eagle hunters left”. Perhaps the emphasis here is on “authentic” – whatever that means – because more than that number participate in the Eagle Festival in Ulgii (Ölgii) each year. Wikipedia puts the number of eagle hunters in Bayan-Ölgii Aimag alone at about 250.
Of course, the vast majority of these hunters are men. Conventional wisdom holds that eagle hunting was traditionally handed down from father to son. However, as one academic argues, eagle huntresses were probably more common in ancient times. A nomadic lifestyle relies on the physical competence of all its members. “The combination of horse riding and archery was an equalizer, leveling out physical differences: a woman on horseback is as fast and agile as a man.”
I already had my tickets to Mongolia in hand when the trailers for the hit documentary movie: The Eagle Huntress were released. The film follows thirteen-year-old Aisholpan Nurgaiv as she captures a young eagle from its nest, trains to become the first female in twelve generations within her family to become an eagle huntress, and goes on to be the first female to enter and win the competition at the annual Eagle Festival.
So, I was thrilled to hear she would be attending and competing in the festival I was travelling to (more about that anon).
I was even more thrilled to hear that the youngest eagle hunter-in-training in the family I was staying with was Nurguli, the patriarch’s 13-year-old granddaughter.
It was a real privilege to follow young Nurguli through the mountains, as her grandfather Sarkhad, and her uncles Razdak and Jakslak worked with their huge golden birds, and helped the teenager train hers.
Mounted Kazakhs with Eagles
Female golden eagles are much larger than their male counterparts, and are therefore able to bring down heavier prey. They are also considered better hunters. Fledgeling female eagles are taken from their nests and hand raised by the eagle hunters. Teaching the young eagle to come when called involves starting from the top of a hill. Family Group
The eagle hunters rest near the top of the hill before launching the birds to be caught at the bottom. The leather hoods that the raptors wear to keep them calm will stay on until the hunters are ready to release the birds to flight. The hunters themselves all wear handmade, colourfully embroidered velvet outfits when they are working or competing with their birds. Their hats are trimmed with fox fur their eagles have caught for them. Incoming Eagle
The eagle is called to the handler with a loud whistle. Young Nurguli looks so small on the hill, as her bird – which can reach speeds of 240 to 320 kilometres per hour (150 to 200 mph) when diving after prey – comes in to land. Catching her Golden Eagle
Average female wing length for golden eagles in this region is from 65 to 72 cm (26 to 28 in). This raptor’s overall wingspan is greater than Nurguli’s height; she has to really brace herself for the bird’s landing. The Eagle has Landed
Once her eagle has its reward of fresh meat, Nurguli takes hold of the jesses so that she has better control of her bird. Training her Eagle
Eagle training takes time. The whole process of calling and catching her eagle is repeated; Nurguli hands her hooded eagle to her uncle, who carries it up the hill for another release. Waiting for her Eagle
Grandfather Sarkhad gives Nurguli some pointers …. Waiting for her Eagle
… before leaving her to wait alone and call her bird. Eagle Landing
The powerful bird nearly knocks Nurguli over as it comes into land. You need to keep your bare skin well away from raptor beaks and claws: many an eagle hunter – including one of Nurguli’s uncles – bears the scars of eagle handling gone wrong! Nurguli and her Eagle
Nurguli is a quiet, solemn girl. She did her best to ignore the small group of photographers following her around – a task made easier for her by the lack of a shared language. She lit up, however, when she was handling her bird. Eagle Hunters x Four Eagle Hunters Horseback
Mongolian horses are small, fearless, half wild, and unbelievably tough. They are an essential means of transport in this rugged environment. Nurguli on Horseback
The eagle hunters have fashioned a pole system so that their birds can perch while riding horseback. Female golden eagles can weigh around 6.35 kg (14.0 lb), which is heavy to carry for any length of time. Hunters on the Hill Nurguli Running
Nurguli runs back down the hill … Catching her Eagle
… to effect another eagle-catch. Managing her Eagle
As Nurguli rewards her beautiful raptor, … Managing her Eagle
… we can admire the power in those long wings, pointed beak, … Golden Eagle in a Hood
… and long, sharp talons. Sarkhad and Nurguli
It was lovely to watch the generations of family working together, passing traditions and knowledge forward. Nurguli and her Eagle Eagle Hunters on a Ridge
A couple of days later, at the top of another rocky ridge … Eagle Huntress on a Ridge
… Nurguli was taking her turn at launching a golden eagle – a feat that takes some strength. Nurguli
Young Nurguli is the face of the future for Mongolia’s Kazakh eagle hunters. In 1932, a Torghut noble from Mongolia, Princess Nirgidma (1907-1983), famous horsewoman and eagle huntress, told a National Geographic interviewer: “We Mongols are emancipated … a good horse and a wide plain, that’s our desire.”
This desire continues, and the spirit lives on.
It is good to see that it is being passed on to the future generation.
To the Future!
Pictures: 28&30Septembery2016
Posted in Animals,environmental portrait,Mongolia,portraitTags: animals,bird,blog,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,Mongolia,people,Photo Blog,travel,Ursula Wall
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