.jpg) Little Spirit House
The tiny village of Kanganaman in the Middle Sepik region of Papua New Guinea has not one, but two spirit houses. This one, the “Little Spirit House” is accessible to women – unlike most of the spirit houses in the region. A typical Sepik mask, complete with what looks like a crocodile spine, sits in the woven gables, keeping watch. According to a myth in the Kaningara area of the Sepik region of Papua New Guinea (PNG), men used to give birth to children while the women controlled the spirit houses. The women had a set of magic flutes with which they communicated with the spirits, and this is how men were created. One night when the women were sleeping, the men snuck in and stole the flutes, reclaiming their ability to ‘make men’. To this day, women are forbidden from hearing the sounds of the magical flutes. (Fridrikkson: Secrets of the Sepik)
Every clan along the Sepik River has an ancestral haus tambaran, or spirit house, where the men gather and the spirits reside in sacred carvings and other tambu (sacred or forbidden) objects. These elegant, lofty buildings are off-limits to women and the uninitiated.
The Sepik River has been called “the soul” of Papua New Guinea; it is certainly the best-known geographic feature of the country, and is home to a huge variety of plant and animal life – much of it endemic – a profusion of distinct and idiosyncratic cultures, and more than 250 discrete languages.
These unique tribal cultures in the Sepik region are a long way from my conventional understanding of the world. But then, the middle Sepik – where I was headed – is itself, a long way from anywhere.
Like anyone else who wants to access the region, I (and a number of other photo-enthusiasts under the tutelage of photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours) spent a long time travelling to the area. Just getting to Papua New Guinea itself can be a challenge! Then, from Port Moresby, we boarded a plane for the one-hour twenty flight to Wewak, where we spent the night. (We were lucky to get a direct flight; many of the available weekly flights go via Mt. Hagen, and take three hours.) The next day, we rode a bumpy bus for five hours (with stops; see: Maprik Market Portraits) to Pagwi before getting into motorised dugout boats for a leisurely two-hour trip down the mighty Sepik. It was mesmerising watching the swaying grasses, the abundant birdlife, the occasional crocodile, and the small settlements of stilted, woven houses, as we chugged along.
Our destination was Kanganaman Village in the Middle Sepik. Known for having the oldest haus tambaran in the region, what the village doesn’t have is electricity or running water! We ate tinned-spam spaghetti for dinner, slept on mats on bamboo flooring, were protected by insect repellent and mosquito nets, washed with water from a large rain barrel, and relieved ourselves in an outhouse that was home to more mosquitos than seems possible. I was very pleased I’d been taking my anti-malarial prophylactics and had received a vaccine against Japanese encephalitis.
But, never mind the bugs; it is a fascinating place. Do come along!
.jpg) Organising the Boats
The “boat launch” at Pagwi is an informal affair! Still, we had been warned: most of us had hats, sunscreen, long sleeves, and shoes we didn’t mind getting wet. We were carrying only the minimal belongings: we would be reunited with our main luggage when we returned to our delightful guesthouse in Wewak in a few days. .jpg) People on the Shore
The locals watch with interest as we load ourselves carefully into the dugouts.  Boatman
Our boatman perches on the back of the dugout to operate the outboard motor. His mouth shows the discolouration and damage from years of chewing betal (areca) nut. Boatman
He keeps a sharp eye out for obstacles as we motor slowly up the river. Huts on the River
Most of the houses along the river are built of woven grasses, and raised up on stilts. Egret
I found it soporific in the afternoon sun, listening to the drone of the motor and the splash of the water, and watching the birds take flight. Boys on the Shore
When we reached Kanganaman Village, children were on on the shore to greet us. Children in the Village
As we walked through the village, other children come out to have a look at the strangers … People in the Window
… or check us out from their windows. Men in a Window
Tourists (this one is from France) sometimes homestay in the village; there is to be a festival the next day, so there are more tourists than usual in the area. Hanging around the Village
There is no sense of urgency in the village. Little Spirit House
After dropping our bags in our lodgings, we visited the ‘Little Spirit House’ – the domain of the women and others who are not initiated. The building is is beautifully woven … Cassowary Totem
… and very dark. The model cassowary inside is almost impossible to make out in the obscurity. Painted Carvings
The people of the Sepik River are well known for their carved masks and other artworks, which have been much sought after by collectors. Sepik Carver
One of the carvers posed for me in the dark spirit house. Sepik Carvers
Uncle and nephew: carving traditions are passed down through tribal families. These men are of the crocodile clan (more about that another time); you can just see the scarification circles on their chests. The Haus Tambaran – the Men’s House
The main spirit house is larger – but less finely decorated on the outside – than the ‘Little Spirit House’ just a few minutes away. This huge building with its carved posts and woven ceiling has been identified as being of national cultural importance, and so has been renovated with help from the National Museum. Protector of the Haus Tambaran
Even though they house secret men’s business, spirit houses are considered female symbols and are often decorated with female forms. Painted Mask
The men’s house is light and airy – making it much easier to admire the carvings inside. Traditionally, carving was an attempt to make the spirits visible: spirits can inhabit the carvings and other art within spirit houses. Sepic Mask
Today, however, many of the carvings in the spirit houses are available for sale. Although Papuans who are not initiated in the local clan cannot enter the spirit houses, we foreign tourists are welcome – for a small price. Boy in a Tree
The day was growing late, and we were offered a trip on the water to watch the sunset. As we headed to our dugouts, some of the local children climbed high into the trees to watch us. Kids in the Water
Other village children followed us upstream, and took the opportunity to go for a swim. Kids in the Water
They frolicked in the evening waters … Sunset on the Sepik River
… as the sun went down over a full and rewarding day. Once the sun sets, it is very dark in the tropics. The battery generator in our bamboo hut operated for a little while, but we all tucked ourselves into our mosquito nets early: we were going to be part of a sing sing – a gathering of a tribes and villages for song and dance – the next day.
 Not even the buzzing of insects could keep me awake!
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 13August2017
Posted in Culture,Papua New Guinea,TravelTags: animism,animist,architecture,arts and crafts,environmental portrait,landscape,Middle Sepik,Photo Blog,Religious Practice,Sepik River,Ursula Wall
Family on the Hill
Smiling people sitting in the dirt on a hill overlooking colourful multi-story houses and endlessly terraced hills: where else could you be, but Nepal? They say every journey begins with a single step.
Even so, when I heard that the penultimate leg of our walk for the day was the ominously named “1000 steps”, I worried. In Nepal, “steps” always means up, not just forward! I can outstrip a lot of people on the flat, but present me the slightest incline, and these days it stops me in my tracks.
It was day two of the “easy” hike around the East Kathmandu Valley in Nepal. Google Maps puts the walk from Namo Buddha to Dhulikhel (following the route we took; via Phoolbari/Phulbari) at 11.6 km (7.2 mi), and suggests that it should take about three hours and twenty minutes; with detours and stops, it took us closer to seven hours, and it felt a LOT further! Oh, the joys of ageing.
We started our morning with chanting and breakfast with the monks at the Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery (see: Dal Bhat and Prayers) before working our way down the steps and path to the village commonly known as Namo Buddha. After that, it was a case of following our guide, Angfula Sherpa, as the forking paths wound through woods and fields and villages … and finally – up those steps!
Of course, there were plenty of excuses to stop for photos, or a chat with locals, or a delicious plate of momos – which might be why we took so long!
Namo Buddha Stupa
This stupa is said to house the bones of Mahasattva (Semchen Chenpo) who gave up his body to a tigress who was starving while trying to feed her cubs. It was later determined that Mahasattva was an earlier incarnation of the Gautama (Shakyamuni) Buddha. Old Woman Perambulating
For Nepali and Tibetan Buddhists, this is one of the holiest pilgrimage sites in Nepal.
It is customary to walk around any stupa three times in a clockwise direction, spinning the prayer wheels and repeating prayers or mantras. Pilgrims at the Market
Pilgrims buy incense, candles, prayer flags and other religious items to help expedite their prayers. Small Shrine
The lighting of candles or lamps represents the knowledge of the Buddha symbolically illuminating the darkness of ignorance. Affixing Prayer Flags on the Stupa
The religious sites in Nepal are well-tended. There was an old woman looking after the shrine here, and this young man applied a fresh coat of whitewash to the stupa before scaling it to affix the new prayer flags someone had purchased. Namo Buddha Stupa
This site was originally called Takmo Lujin – Tibetan for “giving the body to the tigress” – but villagers were afraid of invoking the tigers that still roamed these hills, and called it Namo Buddha – Nepali for “homage to the Buddha” instead. Looking Back at the Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery
It feels like we are going nowhere as we trek up out of Namo Buddha. But then, only half an hour later, we can see the the monastery where we spent the night – perched on a hill far behind us! Terraced Hill
Terraced hills, planted with Nepal’s principal food supply are all around us. Wildflowers on the Path
The signs of spring rise from the verges … Yellow Flowering Shrubs
… and line the sides of the paths we are walking. Gathering Grain
Everywhere we go, people are hard at work. Winter wheat is generally harvested early- to mid-March here in the valley. I’m guessing that is what these women are sorting. View to the Valleys
The sun rises to it’s zenith, warming us and the hills around us. Kids in the Schoolyard
Our next impromptu stop was at a tiny “Community School”, where the children were on the ground outside with a “teacher” not much older than themselves. Temple in the Dirt
Any village big enough for a school will certainly have a shrine and/or temple and/or stupa. Village on the Hill
Some of the hillsides are terraced with colourful villages, rather than just crops. Women at Work
The women are all hard at work, but they are still ready with a quick smile for the strangers. Woman and her Goats
This woman was very keen to show me her baby kids. Building or Rebuilding?
The effects of the 2015 earthquake are still much in evidence. Watching some projects, it is hard to tell if people are building from scratch, or rebuilding a ruin. Certainly, recovered materials are in use everywhere. Making Ornaments
In a tin shed at a fork in the road, I found a man crafting ornaments from carved cow horn and metal. A Man and his Birds
“He’s not from around here,” was all anyone could tell me. Still, the birds were sweet and inexpensive; I went home with a couple. Dhulikhel Height Resort
This had to be the highlight of our day! It was mid-afternoon when we climbed the rise to the modestly-built, elaborately-named: Dhulikhel Height Resort. Momos
When I hear “momos”, I can climb any rise; and these were good. Very, very, good. Golden Buddha
We paid quick respects to Dhulikhel’s giant golden Buddha before working our way through town … View from my Room
… and to our home for the night: the Dhulikhel Lodge Resort. I couldn’t wait to get my boots off and just sit on my balcony, overlooking the mountains. As is always the case in Nepal, every step was worth it.
Looking out my window over the mountains around me, I almost forgot my blisters and the pains in my muscles, my hip and my knees.
 Almost!
Till next time,
Namaste!
Photos: 7March2017
Posted in Landscapes,Nepal,Religious Practice,TravelTags: buddhism,buddhist,environmental portrait,flowers,landscape,Namo Buddha,Nepal,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
Daffodils on the Hill
Daffodils blooming wild on the hillside overlooking Falmouth Harbour are a sure sign that spring has taken hold in Cornwall. We all know that it is England’s notoriously rainy weather – especially in spring – that keeps the grass so green and the flowers blooming. Nowhere is this truer than in the southwestern regions of the country, where the climate is classed as “oceanic” or “maritime” under the Köppen classification system. Winter is not too cold, summer is not too hot – and rain can be expected all year round.
So, imagine our surprise, when we docked in Falmouth, Cornwall, this April, and were greeted with a gloriously sunny day.
My husband and I were on a small ocean-going boat that was hugging the outside coast of Europe from Barcelona in Spain to Bergen in Norway (Viking: Trade Routes of the Middle Ages). We had been unusually lucky with the weather on all our port stops, and this day was no exception.
To make the most of the amazing conditions, we jumped on a morning bus tour around the central-southern portion of the county, and then walked around the town of Falmouth itself in the afternoon. Of course, taking pictures from buses is always challenging, with the other passengers and curved windows in tinted glass, but I’ve included a few just to round out the picture.
Do come along!
St Michael’s Mount
As our tour bus winds through the steep and narrow streets of Marazion, we catch glimpses of St Michael’s Mount: a medieval castle on a small tidal island in Mount’s Bay, Cornwall. St Michael’s Mount
When the bus finally lets us out for a walk, the sun is on the wrong side of the island; that is the down side of trips that are not planned with photography in mind. Sign Posting
Walking and bicycle paths criss-cross the rural countryside … Cornwall Beach
… and families take advantage of the temperate English Channel waters on the rocky beach. Penzance
Cornwall’s most westerly major town – whose name brings to my mind the comic opera by Gilbert and Sullivan – sits across Mount’s Bay. Godrevy Lighthouse
Back in the bus, we drive across the peninsula to the north coast, and follow the Godrevy Heritage Coast … Portreath Lighthouses
… past spectacular cliffs and long, sandy beaches, punctuated with lighthouses and rocky coves, sea walls and headlands. Basset Monument
Carn Brea is like a microcosm of Cornwall: for over 300 years (3700-3400BC), it was the site of a small Neolithic settlement; during the the Iron Age, it was occupied by miners looking for minerals; during the the Middle Ages, a chapel, and later a castle dominated the hillside; and it has a sacred Celtic well nearby and a smugglers’ cave is in the cliffs below.
At the highest point on the hill, a 27 meter (90 ft) Celtic cross was built as a monument to local philanthropist and a mine owner, Francis Basset. Ruins of tin mines still dot the landscape. The ground is still rich with tin deposits, but extraction is too difficult and expensive, so no mines operate today. Falmouth Underpass
After lunch back on the boat, we set off on foot to explore Falmouth. Viking Sky in Port
As a deep, sheltered port, Falmouth is a lifeblood to the region. Known as the “first and last port” for ships crossing the Atlantic to the New World, the docks are important for repairs and refuelling. They also house the Pendennis Shipyards, one of the world’s leading builders and re-fitters of luxury super yachts. The 21st century has seen the rise of European cruise industry, with many boats stopping over en route to Ireland, France, or other English ports. Spring Growth
We continue up the hill overlooking the harbour, with signs of new growth all around us. Cannon Bunker
Of course, defensive signs are also in evidence: this is the very edge of Great Britain, and old cannons watch out to sea. St Anthony’s Head Lighthouse, St Mawes
From the path to Pendennis Castle, we have glimpses over the deep waters known as Carrick Roads to St Mawes on the opposite headland. Daffodils
All manner of spring flowers are at the ground around our feet … Spring Blossoms
… and in the trees above our heads. Pendennis Castle
Built as an artillery stronghold by Henry VIII between 1540 and 1542, this castle’s name is Cornish: ‘pen’ is a headland and ‘dynas’ is a fortification. Pendennis Castle
Today, the castle is managed by English Heritage as a tourist attraction, and when we walked around the perimeter, it was being used as a venue for a wedding. Flag atop the 16th-Century Keep and Gun Platform Coast Guard Station
Downhill from the castle, there is a coast guard unit … Home Guard Tour
… where interactive tours are run by pre-arrangement. Police Call Box
Does it get any more British? The parking lot at Pendennis Point includes a shiny blue police call box – like the TARDIS in Dr Who. Couple on a Bench
Benches line Castle Drive as it winds around the castle hill towards town. The Falmouth Hotel
Opened in 1865, this lovely old building is the oldest hotel in Falmouth. Storage Sheds
As a reward for our long walk, we stopped at an outdoor table in the sun for a Cornish High Tea. I cannot tell a lie: that was truly the best scones and cream I have ever tasted! Sunset over the English Channel
Our boat pulls away from dock and sails east through the English Channel. As we are eating dinner, we watch the sun go down over a perfect day. We were chatting to the couple next to us at dinner and the woman expressed some disappointment: like me, she had read Daphne du Maurier as a girl. So, she expected the Cornwall landscape to be darker, moodier.
I had to laugh. Back in 2012, my husband and I spend a few days in Cornwall and it rained the whole time. The first morning, all the golfers in our hotel were sulking because the fog was so thick, you literally couldn’t see your hand in front of your face, let alone a tee on the green. When we visited Land’s End we could hear the sea crashing, but the fog obscured the paths, the cliff edges and the rocky, boat-shattering rocks below. We stopped at Merry Maidens, where the soft rains and wet grass around the standing stones made it easy to imagine Druids dancing. At the Lost Gardens of Heligen, we huddled under our umbrellas, following the wet pathways all alone, as if it were we who were discovering these strange topiaries. And, at Jamaica Inn, where we stopped for a lunch of Cornish pasties, the wet, stormy skies overhead and the surrounding moors were as dark and moody as you could want.
“It all depends on the weather,” I told her.
It must be one of the few times that having good weather has let someone down.
Until next time, Happy Travels!
Photos: 21April2018
Posted in Great Britain,Landscapes,Travel,United KingdomTags: architecture,Cornwall,England,Europe,flowers,landscape,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Narasirato
They commanded the stage wearing bark cloth and paint and sporting decorations made from shells and pigs’ teeth; they won the audience over with their joyful voices, bamboo pipes, log drums and infectious rhythms. The men of Narasirato – from a remote Solomon’s island – are the ultimate expression of Indigenous World Music. “Music is the universal language of mankind.”
– Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
(Track: Narasirato – Roromera Dub Manasseh Remix)
It doesn’t matter how remote from our experience people’s lives are: when they start to make music, we have an understanding of how they are feeling, and clues as to what they want to express. It is indeed, a form of universal language.
If we are disinclined to take a 19th century poet’s word for it, we can look to a recently published Harvard study: Form and Function in Human Song, which found that listeners could recognise the social function of song snippets, even from small-scale societies that were foreign to them.
Certainly, I had no difficulty connecting with the music I got to enjoy at this year’s Boomerang Festival. Billed as “a New World Indigenous festival for all Australians”, the three-day festival was nested within the five-day Byron Bay Bluesfest. In addition to arts, talks and workshops, this year’s festival featured local Indigenous performers and other musicians from the Asia – Pacific region.
Welcome to Country
Traditional dances performed by young Aboriginal men help us all recognise the roots of the land we are standing on. Sorong Samarai
After visiting Papua New Guinea late last year, I was keen to check out Sorong Samarai, a group of musical activists from across the island of New Guinea. The name comes from the eponymous West Papua protest song that seeks to unite the two halves of the island under a self-determined government. Sorong is a town at the island’s most north-western edge and Samarai is an island off the southernmost tip. Sam Roem in Bird of Paradise Feathers
Sam Roem travelled from West Papua to Australia in a traditional wooden dugout canoe in 2006 to seek asylum. West Papua was incorporated into Indonesia in 1969, and since that time, pro-independance supporters are frequently jailed. Sorong Samarai Rap
Rap has become a powerful – and engaging – voice in Indigenous protest movements all around the world. Sprigga Mek – Sorong Samarai
Native Kanaka hip-hop artist Sprigga Mek from Port Moresby raps in a number of different languages. Sorong Samarai Drums
Bamboo and log drums keep up the pace and rhythm. Sorong Samarai Rap Narasirato
The men in the bamboo orchestra of Narasirato list their interests as: “fishing, farming, feasting and family.” Narasirato on Bamboo Flutes
From a small village in the rainforest on Malaita in the Solomon Islands, the band has performed as far afield as Japan and at Glastonbury, where, true to their name – Narasirato means ‘cry for sunshine’ – they stopped the English rains. Narasirato
They perform songs that praise nature, revere ancestors and reflect on contemporary issues. Yirrmal
Yirrmal Marika, a young Yolngu man from the community of Yirrkala, Arnhem Land in Northern Australia, comes across as a gentle soul. Yirrmal
Using a mix of English and Aboriginal languages, and combining traditional and contemporary musical styles, Yirrmal was originally inspired by his famous musical grandfather, Dr Yunupingu. Horns with The Strides
Jeremy Rose on tenor sax and Nick Garbett on trumpet warm up the room in preparation for the rest of their reggae band. The Strides
No strangers to the “festival” scene, the Sydney-based nine-piece ensemble “The Strides” is truly a multi-cultural organisation. Ras Roni and The Strides
Front-man, reggae master Ras Roni, comes to Sydney from Barbados via London. Eddie “Blacker” Conteh and The Strides
Ragga man Eddie “Blacker C” Conteh is originally from Sierra Leon. Ltl Gzeus and The Strides
Emcee Ltl Gzeus has Fijian/Tongan/Chinese roots. Ras Roni with The Strides
Clearly music keeps you young: look at that twinkle! Benny Walker
Sporting a tattoo honouring iconic Indigenous Australian singer songwriter Archie Roach, Benny Walker, a young Yorta Yorta man from Echuca, charmed the audience with his songs of sunshine. Benny Walker Sorong Samarai
On the final afternoon of the 2018 Boomerang Festival, Sorong Samarai took to the outdoor dance space … Sorong Samarai
… with their messages of political resistance.
Strong messages –
delivered with passion and enthusiasm, and made more palatable by the accompaniment of great music.
Until next time!
Pictures: 30March-1April2018
Posted in Australia,environmental portrait,MusicTags: Australia,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,indigenous,music,musicians,people,performance,Photo Blog,portrait,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Sadhus in Rishikesh
Sādhu – or “Good Men” – are emblematic of India. While they can be seen everywhere, they congregate in holy cities like Rishikesh. Rishikesh!
For me, that is a name that conjures up the sound of sitars, images of pastel-coloured Hindu Gods, and memories of songs from the Beatles’ post-hallucinogenic phase.
Can you believe it? It was 50 years ago, this February-past, that the Beatles followed their guru – their teacher – Maharishi Mahesh Yogi to his ashram in Rishikesh. With an entourage that included wives, girlfriends and selected reporters, the Fab Four joined students from all around the world – including singer-songwriter Donovan and actress Mia Farrow in an advanced course in the Maharishi’s techniques of Transcendental Meditation.
For the Beatles, the visit to Rishikesh marked their break from hallucinogenic drugs in favour of Indian spirituality and meditation practice. It was a period of great productivity for the band, but was also the beginning of the end – as each member of the group spent time honing his own individual artistic vision.
My visit to this north-Indian city in the Himalayan foothills beside the Ganges River was much more prosaic: I was with photographer Karl Grobl, local guide DV Singh, and a small group of photography-enthusiasts. We had a few afternoon-hours to walk around Swarg Ashram: the traffic-free, alcohol-free and meat-free enclave of temples and ashrams across the famous iron suspension bridges of Ram Jhula and Laxman Jhula from Rishikesh town-proper.
True to my expectations, the air was full of heat and dust, the smell of incense and cattle dung, and the sounds of chanting and sitar music. The streets were lined with shops and shrines and crowded with monkeys, beggars, and mystics.
Come for a walk with me in Rishikesh!
Shiva on the Road
As we leave Haridwar for the short drive upstream along the Ganges to Rishikesh, a giant statue of the Lord Shiva watches over us. Devotee in the Street
It is not uncommon to find Hindu devotees walking around the streets painted to represent one of the many Gods in their extensive pantheon. Dressed as a Hindu God
The colour and the facial hair made me think this might be Hanuman, but other features don’t match so I really don’t know. Either way, he was happy to be photographed! Didgeridoos
I was surprised to see didgeridoos on sale at a local music store. The Bookstore
This bookshop was cram packed, with many offerings in English and other languages for visitors. Every Nook and Cranny
Wherever you look, statues, paintings, or other depictions of deities are nestled into every space. Sādhu
Sadhus are nomadic religious ascetics who have taken vows of chastity and poverty. The ash used in their face paint is sometimes from sacred fires, and is symbolic of their “death” from a worldly life. Laxman Jhula
The Laxman (Lakshman) Jhula, about 5 kilometres upstream from Rishikesh, is one of two almost-indistinguishable iron suspension bridges across the Ganges to Swarg Ashram where many of Rishikesh’s yoga and meditation centres are located. Trayambakeshwar from Laxman Jhula
The views from the bridge are wonderful. Trayambakeshwar Temple to the left, is a magnificent 13-story building dedicated to Lord Shiva. An Indian Couple
Visitors make sure they have their pictures taken as they cross the iconic landmark. Woman on Laxman Jhula
Many are happy for me to take their pictures as well. Women on Laxman Jhula Lord Shiva in the Fountain
According to stories, Shiva the Destroyer (who is one of the Hindu trinity) used to wander as a naked sage, which was somewhat distracting to the wives of several forest-dwelling rishis (hermits). The tiger skin he is often seen with is both a symbol of his animal power (and power over animals) and a means of reducing his distracting magnetism. Old Man in the Street Window of Icons
All manner of religious iconography can be found in the shop windows. Selling Papadum
You are never far from food! The Papadum Seller
This young woman was so beautiful and had such a lovely smile; I couldn’t help but wonder what her life was like – and what it would have been like if she had been born somewhere else. Baby Macaque
Small groups of macaques were on the lookout for opportunistic snacks. Sadhus and Beggers
Sadhus and beggars find shady spots to sit or squat with their bowls or hands out. Beggars Brahmā in a Niche The Chotiwala
For me, one of the most surprising characters in Swarg Ashram was the Chotiwala. Choti is Hindi for a tuft of hair kept at the back of the head that is never cut for religious reasons, so a ‘Chotiwala’ is a ‘Braided Man’. In heavy makeup, the Chotiwala sits in front of the restaurant of the same name, greeting people and ringing the bell over his head. Chotiwala
Actually, there are two Chotiwala and two Chotiwala Restaurants; they are next door to each other in this small, dark alley in Swarg Ashram. When the original owner died in 1990 and left the business to two sons, they could not get along. So, they split the property down the middle and both operated as if they were the only one. This dispute – and the two painted men sitting on stools smiling and ringing their bells within feet of each other – continues to this day.
So much for the peace and goodwill to be found in a community of gurus, yogis, and meditators! Home of the Gods Ram Jhula Bridge
We cross back over the Ganges via the newer suspension bridge – along with pedestrians of all kinds and the odd motorcycle. Cobras and the Rest
Religious figurines, pendants and various trinkets are laid out to tempt us at the other side. ॐ – Om
The sacred syllable ॐ – Om – is everywhere around us; sometimes called the “cosmic sound”, it is a spiritual icon in Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, and Sikhism. Rafting on the Ganges
Giving rise to concerns about environmental protection, more tourists are coming to Rishikesh for trekking and rafting. Because the rafting camps are temporary and poorly regulated, they do not have adequate sewage and sanitation infrastructure, causing pollution. And, because the clientele are not there for yoga or meditation, they drink, take drugs, and disturb the tranquility of the forest and the spirituality of the river. Water Sport on the Ganges
I was amazed when I saw people swimming; these waters originate higher up, in the hills, mountains and glaciers of the Himalaya. How I would have loved to escape into one of the many yoga ashrams for a long course of study!
I came away from Rishikesh with mere baubles of bright impressions. A full appreciation of this holy centre of yoga- and meditation-study would take much more time.
Maybe one day!
Until then – ॐ – Om!
Photos: 19November2013
Posted in Architecture,environmental portrait,IndiaTags: animals,architecture,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,hindu,hinduism,India,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
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Oh Ursula, what a positively delightful trip down memory lane. But here in Utah, we have AC, so it was nice to relive the trip without the heat. . . . Hee Hee
You have such a way with words; they’re so beautiful and poetic. Thank you for taking me back there in such a special way. Do hope all is copacetic with you and Gabe and the whole family. We send our best to you all from us here in the Utah desert.
So nice to hear from you, Jan.
Yes, I forgot to mention the heat… like a suffocating wet blanket, wasn’t it? I hope you are having fun while Lew rides the impossible desert terrain!
Love to you both x
[…] and White View and Crocodile Men). But, Kanganaman has not one, but two spirit houses (see: Welcome to the Spirit House). The smaller one is open to everyone in the village, and it was there that the women were gathered […]
[…] two days of rough plane- bus- and boat-travel away from the PNG capital of Port Moresby (see: Welcome to the Spirit House!). The heat and humidity were unrelenting. My fellow-travellers (photographer Karl Grobl from Jim […]
[…] with no electricity or running water; a village comprising not one, but two spirit houses (see: Welcome to the Spirit House), but lacking a school. The river is the area’s lifeline, and those children who attend […]
Hi Ursula,
Your photos are lovely and brought back memories of my years as a tour guide on the Sepik River in the 1970s. I was interested to see the new style of mask carving in Kanganaman. Just a note, from Pagwi you go downriver to Kanganaman, not upriver.
Where else in PNG did you go? Would like to see more.
All the best,
Mary-Clare
Hi Mary-Clare,
Many thanks for the visit – and the correction! I don’t know my left from my right – or my up from my down, obviously.
I still have a few Mt Hagen photos to go through, but you will find Milne Bay, Paiya Village and Port Moresby in the search box, or follow: https://www.ursulasweeklywanders.com/?s=papua+
Cheers,
Ursula