.jpg) Girl on the Steps
A young woman was well ahead of us on the walking path between Dhulikhel and Nagarkot in the Kathmandu Valley, Nepal, but I think her curiosity got the better of her, so she stopped walking until we reached her. It was still low season, so trekkers like us were still rare, and worth checking out! The dramatic landscapes of Nepal are stunning.
Even so, it is the people that make Nepalese trekking such a joy! Everywhere I have been in the country, people have have been friendly and welcoming, and most amenable to having their pictures taken.
A friend and I were hiking around the Eastern Rim of the Kathmandu Valley under the watchful eye of local guide, Angfula Sherpa. We were in Nepal ahead of a photo-workshop with photographers Gavin Gough and Jack Kurtz, so this was our chance to acclimatise to the country.
Even though the four day trek is rated as “easy”, thanks to ageing joints and atrophying muscles, I was finding it – especially the up-hills (of which there are many!) – hard work. On our third morning, I was still tired from the hills and steps from the day before (see: A Thousand Steps). Plus, I had a glorious view from my Dhulikhel Lodge Resort balcony and was enjoying watching the sunrise over the surrounding mountains.
So, it was with some real reluctance that I packed my bags and set off again – uphill.
For every path in Nepal seems to be uphill!
.jpg) Morning over the Mountains at Dhulikhel
The sun rose gently over the mists and mountains that surround Dhulikhel. Thanks to the weather, we didn’t have the clearest view of the soaring surrounding Himalayan peaks, but it was still a lovely spot. .jpg) Woman and a Goat
As the road – and then dusty walking track – led us up and out of Dhulikhel towards Opi, the people along the route were a welcome distraction, and a good excuse to stop for rest.  Hindu Shrine
At the top of one rise, we came across a small Hindu shrine, … Hindu Schoolboys
… with its own small group of student/novice priests. Paths into the Hills
We leave the temple behind us and follow the dirt path … Terraced Hills
… as it leads off and around the foothills. Woman in a Blanket
All along the trails, we can see the effects of the 2015 earthquake. A woman in a blanket sits in the shade of a pile of new bricks, while behind her we can see the reinforcing steel rebar that is now placed much more closely to protect new buildings from further earthquakes. Woman in Pink
I love the gentle wisdom in people’s faces – and their willingness to engage with us and to be photographed. Family Upstairs
A mother and her children come out of their house to greet us and watch our passing. Double-Story House
These double-story brick homes, where the upstairs is mostly grain and food storage, accessible by an internal ladder or staircase, are pretty typical in the Kathmandu Valley and foothills. Terraced Hills
The terraced hills seem to go on forever. Women on the Hill Girl in a Cardboard Hat
I’m pretty she this young girl wasn’t meant to look like a chivalrous Knight of the Round Table; just a coincidence of the colours of her dress, and the shape of her cardboard hat …
She did remind me, however, how creative and imaginative children can be even when they have very few toys and/or resources. Smiling Girl in Pink Two Young Friends Grannie in her Garden Tin Shed on a Hill
Too many people are still managing with make-shift houses, in spite of the weather extremes in Nepal’s mountains and hills. Young Woman
Scarlet lips and lined eyes – makeup is an every-day thing among young Nepali women. Terraced Hills
After three hours walking, the terraced hills still stretch out in all directions. On the Ridge
We seem to have left all the small settlements behind as we finally start making our way downhill … Angfula on the Ridge
… with our guide striding out in front. Path into the Distance
The dirt track seems to go on forever … Through the Trees
… as we wind through pine forests and past more terraced hills. Nepali Set Meal
It was late when we finally sat down to eat – but dinner was well worth waiting for! Our dal bhat (spicy lentil soup and rice), roti, curried vegetables and a seasoned mushroom dish, was topped off with an elaborate bird carved from apple. It was a long day, but an enjoyable one. I felt like I was finally getting into my stride!
As the sun fell, the temperature turned cold. We got the guesthouse to rustle up some hot-water bottles, and I slept soundly, dreaming of terraced hills.
 Until next time,
Namaste!
Pictures: 8March2017
Posted in environmental portrait,Landscapes,Nepal,TravelTags: environmental portrait,environmental portraits,Kathmandu Valley,landscape,Nepal,Photo Blog,Religious Practice,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
Wooden Dolls In Hungarian Folk Costumes
Folk art and trinkets are among the many things on sale at the Central Market in Budapest. I love markets!
Any regular reader of these “pages” knows that when I travel, I visit local markets whenever I can. Markets give visitors a wonderful insight into the daily life of the people in a country, and – depending on their light and layout – present an idiosyncratic a photographic challenge.
On a visit to Budapest in Hungary with my husband, I was thrilled to have the chance to spend time in the Great Market Hall on Fővám Square. We were staying on boat docked on the Danube River, and had some time free to wander between visiting the hilltop fortress in old Buda (see: From the Danube to Buda Castle), and reconnecting with long lost relatives.
The market – the largest and oldest indoor market in Budapest, Hungary – was the dream of the first mayor of Budapest, Károly Kamermayer. Originally designed and built by Hungarian architect and academic, Samu Pecz (1854 – 1922), the market opened in 1897, and soon became an important import-export centre. “In the early days an aisle for wagons ran through the center, with retailers on the east side and wholesalers on the west.”
The market was badly damaged during World War II, and had to be closed for several years. Extensive restoration in the 1990s, however, brought it back to its former glory. The vast three-level hall is light and airy, with a high roof held aloft by elegant steel beams and light pouring in through a huge patchwork of latticed windows. The three floors of stalls, shops and services are popular with tourists and locals alike.
Wandering around there was a treat!
Nagyvásárcsarnok – Great Market Hall
The entrance gate to Budapest’s largest and oldest indoor has an ornate, neo-gothic facade. Inside the Nagyvásárcsarnok (Central Market)
The market was badly damaged during World War II, but was extensively restored in the 1990s. Traditional Hungarian Food and Drink “Can I Help You?”
Locals chat with the counter-staff as they do their daily shopping. Counter Service Service with a Smile
There is a wide range of goods on offer; my husband couldn’t see past the poppy-seed rolls in the counter window. Flower Chocolate
I was fascinated by the exotic chocolates with fruit and edible flowers embedded in them. Fresh Vegetables Green Grocer and his Fruit Fresh Grocery
Garlic and chilis hang neatly around grocer’s stalls. Vegetable Bins Tomatoes Pigs’ Trotters and Tripe Tourists inside the Market Cold Cuts Meat Counter Kolbász
Sausage, in all its variety, is central to Hungarian diet. Goat’s Head at the Butchers’
Clearly the butchers at the Central Market have a bizarre sense of humour. Dried Fruit Dried Nuts Looking over the Hall
From the upstairs, where the bars, coffee-shops and eateries are, you can look down over the stalls in the spacious hall. Shopping for Wooden Trinkets
There are plenty of souvenirs for tourists upstairs, as well, … Traditional Embroidery
… although, rumour has it that most of these “traditional” goods are actually made in China. Cotton, Linen and Lace
If you look hard, you can find some nice pieces. Markets are also a wonderful source of inspiration: we picked up colourful packets of paprika – perfect for Hungarian goulash – to take home with us as little gifts for friends and neighbours.
 They provide a colourful and fragrant reminder of an afternoon well spent!
Until next time,
Happy Shopping!
Pictures: 22August2014
Posted in Europe,Every Day Life,Hungary,TravelTags: architecture,arts and crafts,environmental portraits,everyday life,food,market,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Prideaux Haven
This is paradise! Prideaux Haven is a bay in Desolation Sound Provincial Marine Park, surrounded by spectacular deep water fjords and mountains. Time loops and folds in the waters and fjords of British Columbia’s Strait of Georgia.
As you turn into the deep channel of Desolation Sound – given it’s morose name by the dyspeptic Captain George Vancouver when he first explored the area in bad weather in 1792 – it is almost as if time ceases to exist. The surrounding mountains have stood forever and the towering trees are nearly as old. There are virtually no roads up here: access to trading stations and small First Nation communities is by boat only. Distance, rugged terrain, and swathes of Provincial Parks limit development to tumble-down traditional hamlets and very wealthy summer retreats.
On our motor/sail to Desolation Sound, my husband and I stopped into the charming town of Lund (see: Strait Sailing Part 2) where, among other things, I bought The Curve of Time, an account of visiting these same waters in the late 1920s and early 1930s in a twenty-five-foot diesel motor-boat, written by local woman Capi (M. Wylie Blanchet). A widow, she spent her summers exploring BC waters up and down the whole coast, accompanied by assorted children and sometimes a dog. The real “character” in the book, however, is the landscape: the moody, atmospheric West Coast British Columbia woods and waters.
I devoured the book in three days of calm waters as we sailed our boat Graystone into Squirrel Cove on Cortes Island for an overnight stop (Strait Sailing Part 2), and then crossed to West Redonda Island to top-up our supplies at the Refuge Cove Store, before cruising into the secluded Melanie Bay in the Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park. Matching the places Capi visited over 80 years ago with the ones we were seeing in 2015 gave her poetic imagery extra poignancy.
Little had changed. Desolation Sound is a magic, enthralling, timeless place.
“Time did not exist; or if it did it did not matter… Our world then was both wide and narrow — wide in the immensity of the sea and mountain; narrow in that the boat was very small, and we lived and camped, explored and swam in a little realm of our own making…”
– M. Wylie Blanchet
Desolation Sound
The rock at the entrance to Desolation Sound Provincial Marine Park features a small sign. Kayaks on the Sound
Kayakers are small against the rocks and trees, and quiet in the expanse of water. Boats on Melanie Cove
The boats anchored on Melanie Cove come in all shapes and sizes. Later in the summer, when it gets really busy, companions often have to raft up together. Jellyfish in the Waters
The waters all around our dinghy … Jellyfish
… are alive with jellyfish. Double-Masted Schooner
A lot of boats on Prideaux Haven have travelled north from American waters; we are about 100 nautical miles north of Vancouver, and Desolation Sound is a popular cruising destination. Lunch in Prideaux Haven
Dinghies allow us to enjoy a picnic lunch with friends, overlooking the waters. Dinghy on Prideaux Haven Prideaux Haven Boats in and out of Melanie Cove Melanie Cove
At the head of Melanie Cove, we take our dinghy ashore … “Loo with a View”
… and go for a walk into the woods. Light in the Ferns
Few patches of light reach the forest floor … Light Above
… through the tall Douglas firs and western red cedars, … Spanish Moss
… and the Spanish moss that hangs from their branches. Spanish Moss Path in the Woods
Although this is a very popular place for boats, especially later in the season, I don’t think these paths are walked too often! There is a trail that leads across to Laura Cove; we never saw it. Maple Leaves Above Into the Woods
The trunks of the trees rise straight and tall. Mosses
Mosses and fallen leaves adorn the forest floor. Melanie Cove Below
From the top of Melanie Point, we can peer through the twisting arbutus (Arbutus menziesii – Pacific madrona) boughs and trunks to our boat, safely anchored for another night, below. Moonrise – Stones Marina
Three nights later, with Graystone safely tucked into her home berth in Nanaimo, we sat in the evening quiet – surrounded by masts instead of trees – dreaming of a return to Desolation Sound. It is a spectacularly beautiful place, and we’ll get back there one day…
 Until then,
Safe Sailing!
Pictures: 25-29June2015
Posted in Canada,Nature,Sailing,TravelTags: BC,boats,British Columbia,Canada,Desolation Sound,landscape,Melanie Cove,nature,Photo Blog,sailing,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,waterscape
Castillo de Santa Bárbara on Mount Benacantil
Commanding the skyline over the Spanish port city of Alicante, the ancient Santa Bárbara Castle is well worth exploring. It is no wonder that northern Europeans flock to the south coast of Spain in droves!
Cheap, delicious food; blue skies and a wonderful temperate Mediterranean climate; and history and culture around every corner: my husband and I became as infatuated with Spain’s Costa Blanca (White Coast) as any other tourists.
Our visit in mid-May last year was before the height of the European tourist season, so the region was much less crowded than it would be later in the summer. We were staying at the Valencian seaside resort town of Albir (see: Walking to El Faro). We had booked ourselves onto a boat trip down the picturesque coast from the waterfront city of Benidorm to the tiny islet of Tabarca (see: Mediterranean Blues and History). On the return trip north, the boat pulled into the port city Alicante, and we had a couple of hours to explore. After a quick look through the “Things to Do”, we decided on the half-hour walk to the elevator that would take us up to the 9th-century Muslim castle that sits high on a hill, dominating the city.
One of the things I love most about Europe is the layers of history embedded in every nook and cranny. The original Moorish castle in what we now call Alicante, was built high on a mountain covered in artefacts dating to the Bronze, Iberian, and Roman ages. The fortress was captured by Alfonso XI of Castile on December 4 – the feast day of Santa Barbara, for whom it was renamed – in 1248. James II of Aragon – who was also King of Valencia – took the castle in 1296, and ordered it to be rebuilt. Reconstruction continued over the next four centuries, before it was taken by the French in 1691, and later, the English …
The many-layered castle ruins have been open to the public since 1963. Come and explore!
Benidorm
As we pull out of dock, we get a different view of the popular Mediterranean holiday city of Benidorm. Known for its bars and nightlife, what struck me, though – aside from the high-rise buildings and the mountainous backdrop – was the number of tandem mobility scooters on the water-front promenades! We are definitely part of an ageing population. Costa Blanca
The whole coastline is dotted with resort accommodation. Passengers on the Deck
Northern tourists take advantage of the sunny weather. Alicante from the Water
The Port of Alicante is bustling with pleasure boats in the mid-afternoon sun when we draw close. That castle – nestled into the massive rocky outcrop in the middle of the city – is where we are headed. Paseo de Gomiz – Alicante Promenade
The rippled tiles on the promenade along the waterfront made my eyes swim; fortunately, there were plenty of market stalls and coffee shops to take my mind off it. Castillo de Santa Bárbara
My summer sandals were doing my feet no favours, so I was more than happy to pay the small fee for the elevator ride up inside the mountain to the fortress itself. Macho del Castillo
Originally built in the 9th century during the era of Muslim control of the Iberian Peninsula (711-1296), the castle was reconstructed during the reign of James II of Aragon in the late 13th century. It is one of Spain’s largest medieval fortresses. Turret over Alicante
The castle sits at a height of 166 metres (545 feet) above sea level, … Alicante from the Fortress
… allowing for expansive views over the city … Waters off Alicante
… and the blue Mediterranean. Arches Upward
The castle climbs up and around the rocky bluff. More Arches Baluarte de Santa Ana
Alicante and the coastal mountains are in the gun sights of the Bastion of Santa Ana. Ayuntamiento de Santa Bárbara de Casa
The site was used as a prison in the 18th century and then fell into disuse until it was opened to the public in 1963. It is managed by the local council, and entry is free. Flag Flying View over the Castle and the Mediterranean Down through the Arches
I love the rough-textured walls, and the delicate plants that cling to them. Metal Soldier
Medieval soldiers are scattered around the fortress. The castle houses exhibits and museums – and even hosts concerts under the stars. King of the Castle Ruinas de la Ermita de Santa Bárbara
The ruins of the Hermitage of Santa Bárbara are quite lovely – and house several ancient statues. Corridor Out of Mount Benacantil
After our visit around the castle, we took the elevator back down the mountain and walked through the corridor and back into the bright lights of the city. There we treated ourselves to huge ice creams before heading back to our boat. Costa Blanca Coastline
At six o’clock in the evening, the skies are still light as we cruise north along the Costa Blanca. Benidorm Coastline
The day is long when we approach our dock – but that is ok, as the Spanish typically dine late. We stopped in Benidorm for dinner before returning to our accommodation – replete after a fascinating day of water views, history and fabulous food.
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Photos: 18May2017
Posted in History,Spain,TravelTags: Alicante,architecture,Castillo de Santa Bárbara,flowers,history,landscape,Photo Blog,Santa Barbara Castle,Spain,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Elana Stone and Georgia Mooney – All Our Exes Live in Texas
With humour and grace – and voices like angels – this Australian folk-pop quartet was one of my festival highlights. Music makes everything better!
The annual five-day Easter long-weekend musical feast that is Byron Bay Bluesfest always delivers up such a range and variety of wonderful talent that it is hard to know where to start. Rubbing shoulders with big names from around the world, lesser-known Australian performers proudly hold their own. I look forward to these gems as much as I do the “names” I know and love.
Soaring voices weaving their way around universal themes and very personal tales of love and loss: this year it was the intimate performances by Australian women who had me in tears – and tears of laughter.
This festival, I sought out performers whose names I had heard from friends, but who I had not personally seen before, as well as taking the time to catch some of my old favourites. I am in awe of these talented women: whatever their preferred musical genre, they are masters of their vocal and other instruments; they write clever and interesting lyrics; and they put it all together with catchy tunes.
And, from the point of view of the camera, they look good while doing it! With the dark stages and artificial lighting, these shots are pretty much all taken on my Canon 6D with my EF70-200 lens at f 2.8 and ISO 1600.
Come meet some brilliant Aussie women.
(Track: All Our Exes Live in Texas – The Devil’s Part)
Caiti Baker
Billed as an R&B/Soul singer-songwriter, Caiti is the daughter of a blues musician and was raised in a house full of blues, soul, gospel and rock & roll. Caiti Baker Caiti Baker
I was so impressed with her performance that I made sure to catch her a second time. Caiti Baker and her Bass
You know the tunes are going to be funky when there is a double bass in the mix. All Our Exes Live in Texas
I have to wonder how these remarkable women came up with their name! Together since 2014, the band won the 2017 ARIA Award for Best Blues & Roots Album for their debut: ‘When We Fall’. The first track: “The Devil’s Part” is attached to this post. Katie Wighton – All Our Exes Live in Texas
Although different individuals tell the background stories to the songs they sing, the women share all the writing credits on their album. Georgia Mooney – All Our Exes Live in Texas Hannah Crofts
All Our Exes Live in Texas
When was the last time you saw a ukulele … Elana Stone
All Our Exes Live in Texas
… and an accordion as part of popular music mix? All Our Exes Live in Texas
This was another group I had to give a second listen to – before they set off on their North American tour. Hannah Crofts – All Our Exes Live in Texas
With their big earrings and big voices, they did not disappoint! Elana Stone and Georgia Mooney – All Our Exes Live in Texas Tash Sultana
One of the things I love most about Bluesfest is being introduced to performers I would otherwise not see. This young woman is extraordinary! Tash Sultana
Tash started playing guitar at three years old, and is now billed as a multi-instrumentalist one-woman band with at least 18 different instruments to her credit. Called a “loopologist”, she sets up layers of instrumental riffs on repeating tracks, all with an infectious energy that is impossible to resist. When we last saw her, she was playing a trumpet! Molly Millington
We started our second day with local singer-songwriter Molly Millington – who is a one-woman band of a different sort. Her music is a “fusion of country and folk and quirky pop.” Mia Dyson
Australian singer, songwriter, and guitarist Mia Dyson holds her own on stage. Julz Parker – Hussy Hicks Julz Parker – Hussy Hicks
The combination of Julz’ guitar … Leesa Gentz
… and Leesa’s soaring vocals make the hairs on the back of my neck stand up. Leesa Gentz under a “Pirate Flag”
Naturally, there was a festival-goer in a pirate hat, which he lent to Leesa for her rendition of “Pirate Flag”. It’s a timely message:
“It’s disconcerting that we’re not learning a thing
As history plays out there’s nothing about it changing
But history books are written by crooks with agendas we cannot conceive
Liars and thieves will make you believe
Things that you shouldn’t believe
“let’s leave today go on and pack your bags
Let’s set sail under a pirate flag …”
Sometimes sailing away on a sea of lyrical brilliance is the break we need.
To the music!
Photos: 29March-2April2018
Posted in Australia,music,PortraitsTags: Australia,blog,Byron Bay Bluesfest,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,lights,low light,music,musicians,people,performance,performers,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,singers,Ursula Wall,women
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[…] Dhulikhel (1550 m – 5085 ft) to Nagarkot (2175 m – 7136 ft) the day before (see: Kathmandu Valley Part 4). The altitude gain of over 600 meters (much more if you count the ups-and-downs) had […]