Focus on Little Georgia The official camera operators get prime locations as they record live performances.
I’ve said it before: for a country with a small population, Australia has a disproportionate wealth of musical talent (see: The Local Lineup).
I look forward to the annual Easter long-weekend Byron BayBluesfest: it can invariably be relied upon to serve up a range of quality musicians. It is a joy to discover new performers and revisit some old favourites.
Of course, with acts on five or more stages at any given time, it is hard to know what to chose! There are always plenty of big international acts vying for attention. But, I also enjoy the ‘smaller’ acts in the more intimate tents, and I’m consistently impressed by the depth and breadth of talent on Australia’s music scene. One of the first tasks I undertake when we arrive is to check out the artists’ list on the phone app, and to flag the bands that most interest me.
After that, I just follow the sounds – because it is all bound to be good.
Vying for a View : Shaun Kirk Independent Australian soul and blues singer, songwriter, and musician, Shaun Kirk accompanies his guitar with harmonica, stomp box, tambourine, high hat, cymbal, kick and snare drum. (iPhone6)
Shaun Kirk Shaun performs soulful blues with a deep raspy voice; …
Caiti Baker I’ve posted about some of the fabulous Australian women – including the R&B/Soul singer Caiti Baker – before (see: Aussie Women Rock the Blues).
Dancing in the Rain “Life isn’t about waiting for the storm to pass…It’s about learning to dance in the rain.” – Vivian Greene The rain always falls over Bluesfest at some time: festival regulars are prepared.
Tash Sultana Self-taught singer songwriter, beat boxer, vocalist, guitar tapper and loopologist, the energetic Tash Sultanahas been playing guitar since she was three (see: Aussie Women Rock the Blues).
Tay Oskee Winner of the Byron Bay Bluesfest Busking Competition in 2017, Tay Oskee is a multi- instrumentalist with a strong connection to the Australian land.
Camera on Little Georgia Delightful folk-grunge duo Little Georgia have an infectious sweetness in their music.
Ashleigh Mannix with Little Georgia Sun-touched and ferocious, Ashleigh Mannix’s voice carries Little Georgia’s original folksy-country lyrics…
Justin Carter with Little Georgia … while Justin Carter’s harmonies weave through.
Acrobats When the weather clears, there is always something going on outside the tents.
Evening Tents Friends and families gather in groups on the lawns outside the tents: close to the food and beer, within earshot of the music, and with line-of-sight to the big screens.
Steve Smyth There is no doubting the passion and enthusiasm of alternative indie rocker Steve Smyth.
Steve Smyth Originally from the South Coast of New South Wales, Steve grew up travelling around Australia with his minister-parents, and has been travelling and playing music most of his life.
Jeff Lang Gifted guitarist-songwriter-vocalist-producer, Jeff Lang is a mainstay of the Australian music scene.
Jeff Lang Blending folk, blues, and rock in his self-described “disturbed folk” style, Jeff has been called ‘a national treasure’.
Uppercut Most of the kiosks on site offer food or clothing; this one offering haircuts was new this year, and seemed to be doing a good business.
Hussy Hicks Any regular visitor to this page has heard me rave about Hussy Hicks: Julz Parker’s screaming guitar and Leesa Gentz’s soaring vocals get me every time. (See: Wash my Blues Awayor Back to the Roots of Music.)
Clayton Doley’s Bayou Billabong Best known for his keyboard virtuosity – especially on the Hammond Organ, Clayton Doleyis a fixture in the Australian musical community.
Arriving Early Monday, the last festival day, greeted us with perfectly clear blue skies.
Dog Trumpet I was determined to catch Dog Trumpet: a quirky Australian-based pop-rock band formed by founding members of Mental As Anything: …
Peter O’Doherty – Dog Trumpet … New Zealand-born brothers Peter O’Doherty …
Reg Mombassa – Dog Trumpet … and Chris O’Doherty, aka Reg Mombassa.
Bernie Hayes – Dog Trumpet Australian singer/songwriter Bernie Hayes joined them on guitar and vocals.
There was no question: the local performers held their own! I loved them all – and can’t wait to see what next year has lined up.
The Kill In the dusty morning light of Namibia’s Etosha National Park, five young male lions enjoy their fresh kill while hyenas watch for the chance of scraps.
There is nothing romantic about nature.
But, nor can you call nature “cruel”. Cruelty implies intention.
I watched The Lion King again recently – I had grandchildren visiting – and it was interesting to reflect on the difference between that romanised version of life in the savanna and my memories of my time in Etosha National Park in Namibia.
My visit to this large African nation – years ago now – was during August: the height of winter in the Southern Hemisphere and dry season in Namibia. It was my last morning in the country and the guides around the King Nehale Waterhole where we had been camping were abuzz: lions had been spotted! So, I was driving around the park with photographer Ben McRae and local guide guide Morne Griffiths.
We had found a group of five young male lions the afternoon before (see: Going on a Lion Hunt); they mostly sat around a waterhole yawning and stretching. Truthfully, I had actually enjoyed watching all the other animals more.
But this was different!
It was still early when we got to the waterhole where the lions had been seen. It was not yet 6:30 in the morning, and although the winter sun was up, it had yet to warm the dusty air or shed much light on the panorama before us.
The five young males were again sitting around. The difference was that they had made a kill during the night: a small springbok was no more. Clearly, they were feeling sated, as they ignored – for a time – the pack of hyenas scrabbling around their prey. Once they decided to reclaim their prize, however, there was no contest! It was easy to see where the Disney creators of the animated feature got their ideas for the personalities of the animals in The Lion King: the lions do seem to saunter regally while the hyenas skulk!
We spent a good hour and a half watching from the safety of our safari truck as the drama unfolded before our eyes. Eventually, the lions – presumably full and bored with all the attention – wandered off across the road in front of us and into the scrub.
Lions in the Sunrise It was hard to see what was going on through the barely-lit dusty air: on the other side of a waterhole, five young male lions were resting or casually strolling around…
Hyenas in the Dust … while a pack of hyenas yelped and cackled as they fought each other for bits of meat and bone.
Lions in the Morning For a while, the young males seem barely interested in the havoc the hyenas were causing…
Fighting over the Kill … as they continue to fight around them.
Lions on the Move Clearly, their patience has limits! As a group, the males got up and sauntered around the waterhole …
Lions and Hyenas … to simply and easily reclaim their prize.
Black Backed Jackal Other animals keep a bit of distance.
Lions Eating The lions make short work of their catch …
Lions and a Hyena … as a hyena lopes past. There is something about the hyena’s body-shape that makes it look as if it is cringing or slinking.
Spotted Hyenas (Crocuta Crocuta) Up close, hyenas look fuzzy and adorable – but those jaws are designed for grinding bones: hyenas have the strongest bite-strength of any land animal.
In a Cloud of Dust Jackals and hyenas circle the feasting lions hopefully.
Hyenas with Food Unlike the lions who sit together eating at their own pace, when a hyena gets a bone or scrap of skin, he or she has to make a run for it …
Fighting for Scraps … or fight off contenders. As you can see from the truck-top in frame, this is all happening right in front of us.
Hyena Silhouette The effects of the sun ascending through the dust gives rise to interesting light. It is not yet 7:00am on a winter morning.
Hyenas Chasing Another hyena makes off with a bit of bone – with more in pursuit. Hyenas can run at speeds of up to 60km/hour, and are quite capable of hunting their own prey when a lion-kill is not available. One of the things that surprised me was the range of colouring among these unique animals.
On the Veld
Helmeted Guineafowl – Numida Meleagris
Lions Reflected It is twenty after seven, and the lions have had their fill. They leave the bones and scraps for the scavengers, and make their way as a group, around the waterhole …
Lions in the Landscape … and into the scrub.
Lions Still licking their lips – or is that my Disney-influenced imagination? …
Young Male Lion … they pause, …
Young Male Lion … and one at a time, …
Lion Crossing the Road … file across the road in front of us before disappearing.
Border Crossing Sadly, it is time to leave the park. To prevent animal illness, as we cross from one area into another our truck drives through a solution and has its under-carriage sprayed. (iPhone6)
Morne and his Reward We had promised our guide Morne a reward if he found lions for us; he chose to accept this in the form of his favourite brandy, which we sourced at the first stop outside Etosha National Park. (iPhone6)
What a fitting end to a wonderful two weeks of travelling around Namibia!
I couldn’t help but hum “The Circle of Life” from The Lion King as we followed Namibia’s bumpy highways back to Windhoek and our airplanes home.
Spirit House What could be more Thai? A garlanded spirit house sits in an auspicious corner of a Bang Khun Thien seafood restaurant overlooking the Bay of Thailand.
As cosmopolitan a city as Bangkok is, there are still spaces where one feels as though one has been transported into the distant past.
The old community of Bang Khun Thian – established around 1867 – is one of the 50 districts (เขต – khed) that the huge and sprawling city is divided into. Tucked into the five kilometre strip between the Chao Phraya River to the east and the Tha Chin River to the west, it is criss-crossed by canals and boasts Bangkok’s only seashore. This is not an area of sandy beaches however: the district’s five-kilometre coastline along the Bay of Thailand is the muddy home to mangrove forests and shrimp farms.
The region was first settled by Mon people from the Irrawaddy basin in Myanmar in the 16th century and Khmers from Cambodia some time before the mid-1700s, followed by Chinese immigrants after 1810. Rice, fruit and poultry agriculture, and shrimp aquaculture, have always been the mainstays.
Today, the Bang Khun Thien Museum – situated in the grounds of a local school – gives school groups and other visitors an insight into the economic and ecological significance of the region, with an emphasis on the vital importance that mangroves play in protecting the environment.
It was many years ago that I was there: on a day-trip out of Bangkok with an expat-women’s group. Like other visitors, we were there to relax along the khlongs (คลอง) and waterways, to learn about the mangroves and to enjoy lunch. Food is always central to any excursion in Thailand, and Bang Khun Thian is known for it’s seafood restaurants.
Looking back – way back – at my photos from that tour in order to process them, I can’t help but be disappointed in the lack of quality in many of them. But, I loved the area, and I found a few I’m willing to share.
Enjoy!
Schoolgirl in a Recycle Hat In Thailand, hats made out of sheets of aluminium used to make beer cans, or cardboard for packaging, are actually a “thing”.
School Children Making Hats The children at Klong Phitayalongkorn School craft these hats and other products for sale to visitors.
Shy Smile As is the case everywhere in rural Thailand (even when “rural’ is part of the city), the children are sweet, and polite to their elders.
Schoolgirls The small Bang Khun Thien Museum is in the Klong Phitayalongkorn School grounds. The children are happy to show us around.
Hammock It is hard to believe that bustling, chaotic Bangkok is just a short boat-ride away!
Into the Mangroves Walkways lead us …
School Boy …and visiting school groups on excursions …
School Girl … out over the mangrove swamp …
Pergolas in the Mangroves … to the huts on stilts along the boardwalk that act as outdoor classrooms and house explanatory displays about life in the mangroves.
Fiddler Crab – Chiromanthes Eumolpe The displays are simple – and in Thai.
Mudskipper I first knew this creature by its Thai name of “foot-fish”. Mudskippers are amphibious fish which contribute to the complex mangrove ecology.
Tour Boat Just outside the museum/school area, simple wooden boats wait to take visitors on tours of the rivers, klongs, and the Bay of Thailand – and to transport them to the seafood restaurants.
Hazel in the Light Hazel, the trip organiser, gives the group a brief rundown about the area …
Our Boatman … while our boat operator keeps a careful lookout for traffic and obstacles.
Boat on the River The rivers and canals are the lifeblood of the community. Like many Thai who work outdoors, these fishermen wear full skin-covering clothing.
House on the River The houses along waterways are simple bamboo structures on stilts to protect against tides and flooding.
Boundary Marker A concrete pillar in the bay designates the boundary between Bangkok and Samut Prakan provinces.
Shellfish Farm Aquafarmers drive stakes into the seabed and seed them with clams. The clams cling to these stakes and grow until they are picked off at harvest.
Seafood Restaurant Built on pylons over the waterways, the Bangkok Seaview Restaurant is only accessible by boat.
Cook in the Kitchen Seafood and produce fresh from the local farms is all prepared on the premises by smiling staff.
Javan Pond Heron – Ardeola Speciosa Fish-loving birds hang around the restaurant, hoping for scraps.
Restaurant Walkway After a fresh, tasty lunch, we work our way back along the extensive walkway …
Reloading the Boats … to get back into our boat.
Bamboo and Grass Buildings Motoring through the waterways …
Concrete Pylons … gives us a glimpse into a different world.
Egret in the Mangroves
Feel the Splash! Over sections of the route, our boat can pick up speed, …
Bridge over an Intersection … but in many places, a no-wake rule applies.
Man and Girl Child People come out of their houses to watch us pass by.
It was a wonderful day out!
Maybe one day I’ll get back to these waters – I’m pretty sure the area won’t have changed much.
Intimacy The blocky figures in the Vigeland installation in Frogner Park, Oslo, have a commanding immediacy.
When I think of Oslo, Norway, I think of sculpture: sculptured spaces and sculptured figures and objects. I had seen pictures of the famous Vigeland installation of Frogner Park, Oslo in an inflight magazine years ago, and this had coloured my expectations before my visit to the city in May.
I didn’t arrive under the best of circumstances: my husband – who was meant to be travelling with me – had been called back to Australia prematurely, and my phone had died. I’m used to travelling alone – and often have no phone or internet coverage, but still …
A friend laughed at me when she heard I was without my phone, but these days it is my lifeline – especially when I’m on the road: it is my map, my walking guide, and my direction finder; it is my appointment book, my diary and my alarm clock; it is my address book and my mini-camera. I use it to work out exchange rates and to translate problematic language. It keeps me connected to people at home and around the world, and allows me to book the next accommodation.
So, I was adrift in a strange city.
Fortunately, the people of Oslo were helpful and accommodating, and most of them spoke good English. The desk clerk at the budget hotel where I was staying was more than happy to look up the closest Apple store and mark it out on a paper map. With this map in hand and my cameras in tow, I set off across the inner city to said shop, only to be redirected back across town to a repair centre that no-one in the vicinity had heard of! When I finally found it, took a number, and came to my turn at the desk, they agreed with me: the phone would not charge. Very insightful. I was told they had no replacement batteries in stock.
I gave up, and decided to walk across town again: this time to Frogner Park and it’s renowned Vigeland sculptures. Along the way, I found many other sculptures dotted along my route.
Even more exciting, though: I accidentally found a generic battery shop! After 15 minutes and the exchange of a small amount of Norwegiankrone, my phone had a new battery and I was back on the grid.
It was with a much lighter heart that I finished my day, enjoying some of Oslo’s unique public art.
“Smart Room” Talk about a sculpted space! My room was barely larger than a walk-in wardrobe, but managed to contain all the basic necessities. (ISO 3200 16mm f/6.3 1/60 sec)
Slottsparken – The Palace Park Oslo is dotted with green spaces. Kindergarten children in their hi-vis vests explore one of the ponds in the architecturally-designed Palace Park. Sprinkled with tall, wintery trees, the park is ringed by elegant old multi-story buildings.
Oslo Rooftops and Flags Like many other of the old buildings around central Oslo, the Grand Hotel at Karl Johans Gate has an intriguing roofline.
Crocus Signs of spring are at my feet. (iPhone6)
Norwegian Parliament Building Built between 1860 and 1866 the Stortingsbygningen – the Norwegian Parliament Building – was designed by the Swede Emil Victor Langlet in a variety of styles influenced by French and Italian architecture.
Christian Michelsen In front of the Norwegian Parliament Building, there is an dignified bust by the Danish-Norwegian artist Per Palle Storm of Christian Michelsen (1857 – 1925), first prime minister – from 1905 to 1907 – of the newly independent Norway.
King Christian Frederik The statue of King Christian Frederik (1786-1848) by Kristian Blystad is a relatively modern (May 2014) addition to the park in front of the parliament buildings.
King Haakon VII Standing tall at the top of a staircase in June Seventh Square is a stylised statue by Nils Aas of the once-exiled King Haakon VII (1872 – 1957), first king of independent Norway.
Henrik Ibsen Statue Outside the Ibsen Museum, a charming likeness of the playwright Henrik Ibsen (1828 – 1906) perches on a high stool. One story I heard/read was that he and his wife were both very short. He told the local children that they were trolls – who feature prominently in Nordic myths and Ibsen’s plays – so that the children would leave them alone.
Birch Tree Bark The boulevard leading through Frogner Park to the Vigeland sculptures is lined with birch trees with their beautiful, textured bark.
Gustav Vigeland A statue of Gustav Vigeland (1869 – 1943), revered Norwegian sculptor, creator of the Vigeland installation, and designer of the Nobel Peace Prize medal, stands outside a coffee shop in Frogner Park. This sculpture of himself is the only one in the park with clothing: he wanted all his forms to be timeless, whereas he was vey much a part of the era in which he lived.
Mother and Child The cycle of life, from the cradle to the grave, is a common theme among Vigeland’s works. With more than 200 depictions of people engaged in everyday activities, the Vigeland installation is the world’s largest sculpture park with works by a single artist.
People on the Bridge A 100 metre- (328 ft) long, 15 metre- (49 ft) wide bridge leads into the sculpture park. It features 58 bronze models of people of all ages.
The Ring With the circle of life as a central them, wheels feature repeatedly. Vigeland was in charge of the design and layout of the whole installation area – which was completed between 1939 and 1949.
Young Woman Dancing Although the statue of the angry baby is reputedly the most popular, this one one of a young woman dancing on the bridge is my favourite.
The Fountain Surrounded by 20 bronze tree clumps with people of all ages woven through them, this fountain was originally commissioned for the square in front of the Parliament.
Bodies in the Fountain The fountain features six giants supporting a large basin of cascading water.
Up to the Monolith High up the steps to the Monolith plateau ….
Gate to the Monolith … and through one of the eight wrought iron gates (designed between 1933 and 1937 and installed in 1943 after Vigeland died) …
The Monolith … sits the park’s central feature: The Monolith, towering 14.12 metres (46.32 ft) into the sky.
The Monolith – Detail As the name implies, this massive column of 121 human figures was carved from a single piece of granite.
The Men There are 36 granite sculptures on the Monolith plateau – each telling a story about human relationships.
A Man and his Phone Frogner Park attracts between 1 and 2 million visitors every year, making it the most popular tourist attraction in Norway.
While I was researching the names of some of the statues I came across, I discovered several websites devoted to the city’s quirky artworks, illustrating how many more there are that I didn’t see around the city. One blogger (Alisa Kennedy) visited the Vigeland sculptures in winter, and produced images with a very different feel to those that I experienced.
It makes me want to go back and revisit this extraordinary place!
Afro Celt Sound System It doesn’t get much more international than this! Guinean musician N’Faly Kouyate, British Indian dhol drummer Johnny Kalsi and Armagh- (Northern Ireland) born flautist Ríoghnach Connolly perform on stage with Afro Celt Sound System at this year’s Bluesfest Byron Bay.
(Double click for: Afro Celtic Sound System – Big Cat )
Perhaps it was my imagination – or maybe it was just the nature of the groups that I happened upon from the full smorgasbord available – but it seemed to me that there were even more unusual and interesting international musicians on offer than ever.
Come and meet some of the international artists from the stages of Bluesfest Byron Bay 2018:
Juanes As we waited for the next performer in the Crossroads tent, I realised we were surrounded by people who were not speaking English. “How do you pronounce this?” I asked a neighbour, pointing to the next name in my program. “You-an-ez,” said the gorgeous young man with dark brown eyes. “He is from Colombia! He is a Spanish-singing superstar!” (30March2018)
Juanes Born Juan Estebán Aristizábal Vásquez, but known professionally as Juanes, this guitarist, singer, songwriter, and activist is considered (alongside Shakira) to be one of Colombia’s biggest musical names.
Juanes Who knew there were so many people familiar with Spanish-pop-music in Byron Bay? The audience was in raptures.
Ásgeir We were clearly in the international tent! The accents around us changed and we were soon surrounded by blond heads. Ásgeir Trausti Einarsson is a rising star in Iceland, …
Ásgeir … performing his sweetly-voiced poetic songs in Icelandic and English. (30March2018)
Youssou N’Dour On what was becoming a culturally rich afternoon, we changed continents again, and were treated to energetic and passionate Senegalese singer, songwriter, composer, occasional actor, businessman, and politician Youssou N’Dour.(30March2018)
Youssou N’Dour N’Dour is known for introducing international audiences to mbalax – a Senegalese popular music form that blends local traditions with Cuban and other Latin American popular styles – and for his incredible vocal range.
Youssou N’Dour N’Dour and his band were joined on stage by the most amazing dancer/acrobat …
Drummer with Youssou N’Dour … and a player of the the tama (talking drum), all of which made the set even more infectious.
Jimmy Cliff Grammy Award Winner and Rock and Roll Hall of Fame InducteeJimmy Cliff lays down some reggae rhythms. (30March2018)
Jimmy Cliff With almost 50 years on the world stage, this Jamaican master of ska and reggae has had a number of hits on mainstream pop charts. It was impossible not to sing along.
Jimmy Cliff He and his musicians were just as fresh and infectious when we saw part of their set on the festival’s last day. (02April2018)
Sound Mixing for Ryan McMullen Early afternoon on day three, I could appreciate some of the technical people who help the tents fill with glorious sound.
Ryan McMullen The sweet vocals and beautifully crafted songs of young Irish performer Ryan McMullen soared over our heads.
Harry Manx and Jeff Lang I could listen to Harry Manx’sIndian-folk inspired slide-guitar blues and husky vocals forever! Because I first saw Manx at The Basement in Sydney many years ago, I didn’t realise he actually lives in Canada. Backed on the Bluesfest stage by Jeff Lang, one of Australia’s premier guitarists, Manx has studied and performed music extensively in Japan and India.
Afro Celt Sound System Guinean N’Faly Kouyate, Celtic Robbie Harris and British Sikh Johnny Kalsi blend percussion instruments from three continents into high-energy, joyful music that you can’t help but dance to: Afro Celt Sound System were one of my festival highlights.
Robbie Harris on Bodhrán
Afro Celt Sound System The artists in Afro Celt Sound System are multi-instrumantalists. Here we have Robbie Harris on bodhrán, producer Simon Emmerson on guitar and N’Faly Kouyate on kora.
Ríoghnach Connolly Add Ríoghnach Connolly on flute and you have pure magic.
Seu Jorge Brazilian musician, singer/songwriter and actor Seu Jorge looked small on stage, alone with his guitar as he performed his acoustic renditions of David Bowie classics in Portuguese for an enthralled audience.
Seu Jorge Many of the audience were also wearing red hats in tribute to Pelé dos Santos, the fictional character Jorge played in the Wes Anderson film The Life Aquatic.
Rag ‘n’ Bone Man With his deep, bass-baritone voice and his urban hip-hop beats and funky lyrics, London-based Rory Charles Graham – better known as Rag’n’Bone Man – is a musical force to be reckoned with.
The Wailers The Wailers and their Jamaican reggae sounds are always popular at Bluesfest.
Bali Blues Brothers Just more proof that they play blues all over the world: in their traditional Balineseudeng head-dresses and sarongs, these young men from Bali, Indonesia …
Bali Blues Brothers … gave a credible performance of classic blues numbers.
I’m never sure which I enjoy most: the range of musical styles on offer, or a return to timeless blues classics.
Either way, the performers are world class, and the music is wonderful.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
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Maybe one day I’ll get back to these waters – I’m pretty sure the area won’t have changed much.
