A pastoralist group originating in the Nile Valley, the roughly 7,500 Nilo-Saharan Mursi live in an isolated corner of southwestern Ethiopia, close to the border with South Sudan. Even today with improved roadways, their villages are remote: I was on a Piper Mackayphotographic tour with a small group of photo-enthusiasts under the direction of photographer Ben McRae, and we had climbed into our Toyota Land Cruisers before dawn to undertake the bumpy two-hour drive from the nearest market town of Jinka, across Mago National Park, and into Mursi lands.
This remoteness probably helps the Mursi maintain their Animist religion and traditional rites of passage. Mursi women are among the few remaining tribes to continue to wear lip plates: I’ve shared pictures of these before (see: Meet the Mursi). According to accounts, Mursi men engage in ritualised violence in the form of ceremonial stick fighting (thagine).
We did not observe the stick fighting, but we were invited to participate in a young man’s first blood-letting: a dramatic ceremonial piercing of a cow’s neck artery so that the blood can be drunk. The injury is plugged up again after a bowl of blood has been taken, and the cow takes off – relatively unharmed – as soon as it is released.
“Pay-for-click” tourism has been an integral part of visiting the Omo Valley for many years, and in a way it encourages the tribes to maintain some of their traditional trappings. But it also makes the experience of visiting villages purely transactional, rather than friendly and mutually curious. I’ve commented before about how confronting I found the whole concept of bartering for every photograph, and the Mursi people have a reputation for being particularly “aggressive”. Still, this was our last day in the tribal regions, and I had a bundle of money and a “cloak of confidence” that made me proof against extortion: if you are not careful, the price-per-photograph can double in the course of a session!
Fortunately, I managed to avoid the arguments that happen regularly between villagers and visitors, and more importantly, managed to not get shot by one of the automatic weapons that are everywhere and seem to be tossed around rather cavalierly. I was not afraid of being an intentional target, but I am surprised that accidents don’t happen more often!
Come meet the men of the Mursi – all of them proud warriors.
Man with a Gun Tribal law rules these lands: this is frontier territory, on the border with South Sudan, from whence cattle raiders will cross to try and take your prized livestock. Revenge killings are not uncommon, and young men earn their scarification “stripes” by killing their enemies.
Mursi Man The Mursi are a tall, proud people with “an aggressive reputation”; I never felt at risk, but I didn’t manage to raise many smiles. The dry, dusty climate makes for a lot of sore eyes.
Nilla Headdress These headdresses – made of two warthog (Phacochoerus africanus) tusks joined with iron fittings to a leather headpiece – are popular among men and women, and are even made to decorate cattle.
Mursi Man in a Nilla Headdress
Young Man in Headdress All the elements of the headdress look heavy …
Metal and Leather … and I never succeeded in getting an explanation (if there is one, outside of ornamentation) of the different components.
Men with a Staff and a Gun I found the casual way with which weapon were handled rather alarming. Fortunately, it would seem many of them are not loaded; guns are cheap but bullets are expensive!
Mursi Man in Tusks
Close Shave Razors are a valuable commodity as many men (and women) shave intricate designs into their hair.
Young Mursi Man There is an intensity in these young men …
Young Mursi Man … that is palpable even before you see the extensive scarification.
Off to the Blood-Lettting We’d only been in the village just over two hours, and it was still mid-morning. But the sun was high: pulsating light and radiating heat. Following the men to the cattle pens made for a nice diversion, even though I felt anticipatory dread over what was to come.
To Catch a Cow First, a cow who hasn’t been bled recently …
To Restrain a Cow … must be caught and restrained.
Mark a Spot The bowman palpates an artery on the cows neck for piercing.
Spurting Blood
Catching the Blood The spurting fresh blood is caught in a gourd …
Plugging the Hole … before the hole in the neck is plugged …
Drinking the Blood … and the blood is drunk by the participants.
First Time I don’t think the young lad enjoyed it much!
Warrior The elder, however, sits tall with pride.
Post Blood-Letting The men who have shared the cow’s blood rest after their exertion. The cattle must be used to this treatment – once let loose, they are unfazed.
Mursi Man and his Weapon We returned to our vehicles, where – against a black cloth and with a soft box – I make another Mursi warrior portrait.
It is certainly not an easy life!
I was pleased to have had a glimpse into a very foreign world, but I won’t pretend I even begin to understand it.
[…] have posted some of the pictures I “bought” in this Mursi village (see: The Mursi and Mursi Men). One of the biggest problems I had was the transactional nature of the exchanges, and the fact […]ReplyCancel
Wild Brumby at Three Mile Dam Is there anything more beautiful than a wild horse? An estimated 6,000 brumbies – feral horses – roam free across the Australian Alps in Kosciuszko National Park.
My idea of a great New Year’s party is a trip into nature.
The bonus of being “down under” is that the New Year break falls in the height of summer. I escape to Kosciuszko National Park to enjoy fresh air, summer alpine flowers, and some quiet contemplation.
Early into one New Year, we decided to drive a little further afield from our Jindabyne base, and check out the Goldseekers Track in the Selwyn area of Kosciuszko National Park. The weather was clear and hot – very hot – so the easy 3km loop track was just what the doctor ordered after all the excesses of the festive season.
The Big Trout – Adaminaby Australia loves its “big” monuments to local produce and regional highlights. The drive to the Selwin area took us through the small town of Adaminaby, where we stopped to picnic-lunch and admire the “Big Trout”. (iPhone6)
Historic Sawyers Hut There are around two hundred historic huts dotted around the Australian Alps – some dating back to the 1860s. They were built by graziers, gold miners, foresters, government workers, skiers, and bushwalkers to provide temporary shelter. They are still left unlocked for emergency use, and are stocked with matches and a small amount of dry firewood and kindling. Most are in remote locations, but Sawyers Hut caught our eye from the car, and was an easy stop. It was originally constructed in the early 1900s, but was rebuilt after the bushfires of 2003. (iPhone6)
Wild Brumbies in a Field of Flowers I was thrilled to see a herd of brumbies in a nearby meadow as we parked our car.
Brumby in a Field of Wildflowers Although these magnificent animals roam the alpine country freely, I haven’t seen them often, and never this close!
Wild Brumby at Three Mile Dam I followed them at a discrete distance on foot as they went down to the water to drink. Because they are considered a threat to the delicate native ecosystems and are not indigenous animals, their management – particularly control of their numbers – is subject to vigorous debate.
Goldseekers Track Setting off on a new track is always an adventure!
Buttercups The wildflowers were taking advantage of the glorious summer weather, blooming in clumps at our feet, …
Lilies in the Meadow … or in delicate clouds all around us.
Pale Vanilla Lily (Arthropodium Milleflorum)
Sign-Posting Sign posts introduce visitors to the region’s highlights.
Snow Gums (Eucalyptus Pauciflora) and Black Sallee (Eucalyptus Stellulata)
Alpine Shaggy-Pea Bushes (Podolobium or Oxylobium Alpestre) Bees hum in the heat, and the bush smells beautiful all around us.
Lake Eucumbene At a vantage point on the track, we can see Lake Eucumbene, the largest storage lake in the Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Scheme, in the distance.
Dandelions and a Fallen Log
Water-Operated Battery Stamper An old stamp mill, used to crush rock-embedded gold by pounding it, …
Water-Operated Battery Stamper … sits derelict and rusting.
Dead Machinery
Yellow Flower
Billy Buttons (Craspedia Globosa)
It was a most enjoyable circuit. I think there is no better way to start a new year off right!
“Light a Candle” Countless candles burn in the pre-dawn darkness around Boudhanath Stupa in Kathmandu, Nepal.
“Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle, and the life of the candle will not be shortened. Happiness never decreases by being shared.”
– The Buddha
The end of the year – according to the Gregorian calendar is drawing near…
Of course, the more you travel, the more you realise that many people in the world march to different calendars, marked with different celebrations and holidays!
I was used to the idea of Orthodox Christmas and Easter falling on dates different from the conventional Western Christian days because many Orthodox Christians continue to use the Revised Julian calendar. In Thailand, where I lived for many years, the year is currently 2561 BE (Buddhist Era). Theravāda Buddhist holidays are more important than Christian ones, and because they line up with moon cycles, the actual dates change yearly.
The official calendar in Nepal is based on ancient Hindu traditions; at the moment, the year is 2075 BS (Bikram Samvat). Last year, I was lucky enough to be in-and-around Kathmandu for several Buddhist and Hindu religious and cultural holidays that corresponded with various full moons (more on those one day, when I get back to the photos).
I was also lucky enough to be staying within a short walk of Boudha (or Boudhanath) Stupa, one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world. This huge, iconic, structure with its all-seeing eyes facing in four directions, stands tall over the surrounding skyline. It is considered the holiest Tibetan Buddhist temple outside China’s Tibetan Autonomous Region, and is visited by thousands of domestic and international tourists and pilgrims every year. Badly damaged by the horrific April 2015 Nepal Earthquake, this UNESCO World Heritage-listed site is of such local importance that repairs costing 230 million Nepalese Rupees (about $USD2,000,000) were begun almost immediately, and it was reopened just 19 months later.
One of the things that impressed me most – beyond the structure itself – was the devotion of the pilgrims who visited. Holy days, of course, were packed! But even on “ordinary” days, devotees and pilgrims took time out to come and light candles, spin prayer wheels, say prayers, and circumambulate the base of the stupa – some performing prostrations along the way.
In Nepal, giving thanks, and saying prayers asking for protection, inspiration, wishes, and even miracles, are an integral part part of everyday life.
A Commanding Presence From the roof of my hotel, I have a wonderful (if typically hazy) view over the Kathmandu suburb of Boudha, and the 36 metre- (118 ft) tall Boudhanath Stupa.
Morning Movement It is not yet 6am when I enter the temple grounds: the faithful get up early to circumnavigate Boudhanath Stupa.
Spinning the Prayer Wheel Three-times clockwise, the faithful walk around the giant prayer wheels, chanting Oṃ maṇi padme hūṃ softly.
Prayer Wheel, Candles and Prayer Flags
Prayer Candles There are prayer candles burning in every niche and corner.
Candles Trestle tables are covered in prayer lamps …
Lighting Candles … waiting to be lit with long tapers
Lighting Candles
Lighting Candles Although the temple is noisy with chanting, gongs and chatter, the mood is quiet and contemplative as people light their flames.
Around the Candle Tables
Candles for Loved Ones
Monks in the Morning Tibetan Buddhist monks see Boudhanath Stupa as an important place of pilgrimage and worship. They sit for hours chanting prayers; …
Monk Music … this one, accompanying the long chants with intermittent drumming on a small two-headed drum and blasts on a strange horn.
Hindu Pilgrims Beggars, invalids, cripples and Hindu sadus are part of the throng that surround the temple.
As the light came up over the stupa, my mornings at the temple – and my stay in Kathmandu – drew to an end. But, I left feeling quietly restored, having lit a few candles myself.
As this year draws towards a close – whatever calendar you are using, and whatever you celebrate this season – I hope you enjoy some time for candles and quiet reflection.
“Look at how a single candle can both defy and define the darkness.”
[…] Jack Kurtz. When we weren’t exploring various outdoor locations (e.g: A Thousand Steps, Boudhanath Stupa, Bhaktapur Ruins, and Swayambhunath, etc.), we were grouped in an airy Airbnb home in Thamel and […]ReplyCancel
[…] visit this magnificent place many times during my stay (e.g.: Prayers in the Eyes of the Buddha and Light a Candle) and never ceased to marvel at it – or at the devotion of the many pilgrims who visited at […]ReplyCancel
Silver Snow Daisies – Celmisia Longifolia High on the Ramshead Range in Australia’s Snowy Mountains, the flowers put on a unique summer spectacle from late-December through January.
Summer Snowmen
Janet andAllan Ahlberg
In the good old days, When snow was snow, Snowmen lated years, You know.
They kept cool heads When the sun came out. They didn’t melt, They ran about!
They took their holidays By the sea, And paddled Just like you and me.
When winter time Came round again, They piled more snow And made more men!
Still, that of course Was years ago; In the good old days, When snow was snow.
Summer starts on December 1st in the Southern Hemisphere, and the heat usually follows soon after. That’s my cue to escape into the high country. For, even though it is not necessarily any cooler in the Snowy Mountains of Kosciuszko National Park, it is usually less humid and muggy than on the coast. And, the summer heat brings out the beautiful alpine flowers endemic to Australian alpine regions.
This time last year, as the Australian summer hotted-up and Christmas rolled into New Year’s, we had a house full of people. It was a perfect excuse to take the chairlift up the Ramshead Range from Thredbo Village, and walk along the family-friendly pathway towards Mount Kosciuszko in search of flowers (for me) and snow (for the children).
We were lucky enough to find both!
Join us in the fresh air and sunshine for a summer walk.
Chairlift on the Ramshead The Kosciuszko Express Chairlift is a ski lift in winter; in summer it is kitted out to take mountain bikes as well as pedestrians. It takes us from Thredbo Village (1365 metres) to Eagle’s Nest Restaurant (1937 metres) and the start of our walk.
Family on the Hill I always feel like I’m on the roof of the world when I’m up here!
Walkway to Mt Kosciuszko The walking track is an elevated metal grid, which allows snow-melt through, and protects the delicate plants against trampling.
Flowers on the Ramshead Range From about mid-December to mid-January, the alpine flowers bloom – with at least 21 species found nowhere else in the world. Here, the silver snow daisies and mountain celery stretch up to the granite boulders on the ridge.
Candle Heath (Richea Continentis) Candle Heath is endemic to Australia, and loves the watercourses and bogs in the alpine and sub-alpine wet heathland of Australia’s Great Dividing Range. It is punishingly sharp – another reason to stick to the walkway!
Mountain Celery (Aciphylla Glacialis) and Sheep Sorrel (Acetosella Vulgaris) Indigenous plants like mountain celery and silver snow daisies fight for space with non-native species like the widespread sheep sorrel.
Silver Snow Daisies (Celmisia Longifolia) My favourites are the silver snow daisies, which are just starting to bloom . (iPhone6)
Don’t Panic! We can’t actually see Mt Kosciuszko from here – it is hidden behind the range we are on, but don’t panic: …
Mt Kosciuszko 4.5 … that marker says “4.5”, not “45” as it first appears! The mountain was named by explorer Paweł Edmund Strzelecki in 1840 for the Polish freedom fighter, General Tadeusz Kościuszko.
Rock with a View At the Mt Kosciuszko Lookout, you can see Australia’s highest point (unimpressive against the other ridges!) and the source of the Snowy River. Pockets of snow still tuck into the hollows.
Girl Conquers Rocks! While some people use the granite boulders as a vantage point, others treat them as an adventure playground.
Purple Eye-Bright (Euphrasia Collina) Early Snowy Mountain stockmen recognised eyebright’s eye-soothing properties. Today, many of the species are extinct or endangered.
Rocks on the Hillside We are well above the tree line, but the uplifting, faulting, folding, and erosion of the granite boulders that make up these mountains provide plenty of visual features.
Path through the Saddle Off the main track, an informal path …
Summer Snow … leads us to a patch of summer snow.
“Do you want to build a Snowman?”
Candleheath on the Hill These alpine plants lie in wait under the snow all winter – bursting forth with colour as soon as the snow melts.
Summer Ski Slope Not only are they covered in snow throughout winter, they are squashed under Thredbo’s popular ski runs.
The Chair Down All too soon, it is time to take the chairlift back down through the snow gums and into the little village of Thredbo.
What ever it is that you and your family celebrate this time of year, I wish you a wonderful holiday season, filled with love and laughter, and the magic of summer snowmen.
[…] have my favourite walking tracks that I return to regularly (eg: Rennix Walk; Kosciuszko Lookout; Porcupine Rocks; Mount Kosciuszko Summit; Mount Stillwell; Seaman’s Hut; Waterfall […]ReplyCancel
Terraces The ridges that skirt the Kathmandu Valley between Nagarkot and Sankhu provide panoramic views over lushly planted terraces, ancient Newari villages, and the foothills of the Himalayas.
I always feel like I’m finally getting into the rhythm of a walk when it is about to finish!
I suspect that this is an illusion, as it doesn’t matter if the walk takes four hours or four days.
It was the final leg of an “easy” four-day trek around the Eastern Rim of the Kathmandu Valley. I had organised the walk with local guide Angfula Sherpa, and although he had made allowances for the fact that neither I nor my walking-companion were particularly young, fit, or spry, it didn’t feel very easy!
Still, on day four, I was sad that it was coming to an end.
In beautiful spring weather, we had walked a good 16km (10 miles) from Dhulikhel (1550 m – 5085 ft) to Nagarkot (2175 m – 7136 ft) the day before (see: Kathmandu Valley Part 4). The altitude gain of over 600 meters (much more if you count the ups-and-downs) had exhausted me, and after a great meal I was looking forward to bed. Accommodation has improved markedly since had I first trekked in Nepal many years ago, but even so, most places have no central heating, and our rooms at the Stupa View Resort were frigid! It was only thanks to the hot-water bottles that the staff managed to find that I was able to relax my aching muscles and collapse into sleep.
We started our next day in Nagarkot without the views of the Himalayas that the village is known for; the weather conspired against us, and we spent part of our morning getting in and out of rain gear as we walked through a pine forest shrouded in mist, drizzle, and outright rain.
But, it was downhill, and mostly soft underfoot.
Before long, we made our way out of the forest and into better weather, and into terraces planted with grain, potatoes, and mustard. With our arms swinging and our feet finding their pace, we walked down towards the Newari town of Sankhu (1382 m – 4534 ft), stopping en route for lunch at a restaurant that wasn’t officially open and that only an experienced guide would ever have found.
A vehicle met us in Sankhu, and drove us the hour back to Kathmandu – a world away ….
Angfula on the Track We walked down from Nagarkot, out of the trees and rain, and onto a track over the terraced hills.
Earthquake Damage In the villages, the buildings we pass still show extensive damage …
Brick Ruins … from the April 2015 Gorkha earthquake which killed about 9,000 people.
Sun on the Terraces The amount of work that goes into tending the narrow terraces is mind-boggling.
Gathering the Grain Using head straps, women carry large loads through the fields.
Child Playing at a Hindu Shrine Hindu and Buddhist shrines are dotted all around the Kathmandu Valley. A boy playing – with what appears to be a pretend gun – seems in odd juxtaposition with this linga, an abstract representation of the Hindu deity Shiva.
Farmhouses and Terraces As we drop down in altitude, grains give way to potato and mustard. Crops are planted in rotation to make the best of the short growing season.
Mustard Flowers The mustard is in bloom, …
Potato Flowers … as are the potatoes.
Working the Fields
The Women of the House In spite of earthquake-damage to their buildings, this delightful Nepali family were able to produce a wonderful lunch for us.
Young Woman I had a long chat with the daughter of the house, who – two weeks after our visit – was heading to Australia to study at university. Most Nepali I spoke to have relatives working or studying overseas: about 8.5% of the the country’s population lives outside its borders.
Potato Furrows Food stretches out all around us: Nepal is still an agricultural country, with over two-thirds of the population directly engaged in farming.
On the Road Nepal is also among the least developed countries in the world, with a severe lack of skilled labor. We could see evidence of this in the roads we travelled and the buildings we passed.
Woman in Green About one-quarter of Nepalese live below the poverty line and, no matter their age – like this old woman carrying her greens – most are engaged in manual labour.
Sorting Potatoes So much of the labour seems rather informal: at the side of the road, these people were sorting potatoes for bagging and sale.
Sankhu It is a bittersweet moment when we can finally see the end of our walk: the ancient Newari town of Sankhu, where we will meet our car back to Kathmandu.
Swasthani Mata Temple On the way into Sankhu, we cross the waters of the Sali Nadi, and pass through a temple dedicated to the HinduGoddess Swasthani.
The Sali Nadi These littered, polluted waters are sacred: during the month-long Shree Swasthani Brata Katha festival, Hindu devotees to Goddess Swasthani bathe here.
Swasthani Mata Temple The temple itself has a unique octagonal roof.
Icon in a Niche Everywhere you look, there are icons: coloured with candle wax and chalk, …
Icon in a Niche … and draped in cloths and garlands.
Swasthani Mata Temple The wonderful gold-plated octagonal roof of the temple is supported by struts carved with depictions of the Goddess Swasthani.
Hindu Priest You will always find a priest tending a Hindu temple.
Blessings I made sure to receive my blessing before leaving.
Hotel Room Back in Kathmandu, my room was positively palatial – especially after the modest accommodation on our trek.
Palatial room or not, I’d rather be walking!
Like the rest of Nepal, the Kathmandu Valley is a joy to trek around.
Wasn’t that grand? I agree, we aren’t particularly young, fit, nor spry but that which we lack is made up with our determination. Arthritic hips be damned! They can always be replaced later. Thanks for this trip down Memory Lane.ReplyCancel
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
[…] have posted some of the pictures I “bought” in this Mursi village (see: The Mursi and Mursi Men). One of the biggest problems I had was the transactional nature of the exchanges, and the fact […]