.jpg) Walkway Into The Woods
There is something enchanting about a rainforest! This inland temperate rainforest in the Ancient Forest/Chun T’oh Whudujut Park in Canada’s British Columbia is home to old-growth western red cedars – many over a thousand years of age. I can just imagine Oberon, Titania, and Puck frolicking nearby – hidden by the dense pockets of undergrowth. Sometimes, individuals make a big difference.
In Canada’s British Columbia, the most-recently established Provincial Park helps protect trees that are among the province’s oldest.
About 114 km (71 mi) east of the small industrial city of Prince George, there remains a section of North American inland temperate rainforest. Pockets of humid forest patches survive in what is called the interior wet-belt, sheltered by two mountain ranges: the Columbia Range to the west and the Rockies to the east. This section, now called the Ancient Forest/Chun T’oh Whudujut Park, is believed to be the furthest temperate rainforest from an ocean (800 km / 497 mi) anywhere in the world. It houses old-growth trees, many thought to be well over 1000 years of age.
But, not so long ago, it was under threat from logging.
The Ancient Forest is within the traditional territory of the Lheidli T’enneh Nation who have inhabited the region since time immemorial. Lheidli people would visit the stands from summer fishing camps along the upper Fraser River as well as gather medicinal plants, some of which were thought to be extinct. The impact of residential schooling disrupted the strength of traditional practices, and many of the giants standing here were quietly earmarked for felling.
While conducting research on lichen biodiversity in 2005, Dave Radies – a University of Northern British Columbia graduate student – came across these impressive western red cedar trees, and alerted the relevant communities to the threat that they were under. With a lot of work, money, and collaboration between local hiking groups, the university, the First Nation people, and the Provincial Government, trails were developed to bring visitors to the site in an environmentally friendly manner – so that they might see the majestic cedars for themselves without causing undue further harm. The logging rights were finally cancelled in 2008, and in 2016 the the Provincial Park was established to protect this unique ecosystem.
One of the mighty cedars is called “The Radies Tree” in Dave Radies’ honour.
Earlier the same day, I had taken a short walk to a magnificent waterfall (see: Rearguard Falls), and I couldn’t help but marvel at how different these two neighbouring environments were!
Come for a short walk through some ancient giants:
.jpg) Into the Ancient Forest
The main walkway into the rainforest is wonderfully accessible. In spite of that, I had the area to myself, and didn’t see another soul. .jpg) Greenery in a Tree Stump
Everything is damp, and dark, and magical. New growth takes hold in old decay.  Small Waterfall
Water trickles down through the fallen logs, tangled roots, and mossy, ferny undergrowth. “The Last Frontier – Life in the Canopy”
There are numerous signs along the walkway with useful and interesting information about the unique ecosystem we are walking through. Look Up!
The canopy is high above us. Western red cedars (Thuja plicata) typically grow to 60 metres (about 200 feet) tall. Moss Bubbles
Far below the canopy, the light is shady and filtered – making it the ideal home for all types of mosses. Ferns at Ground Level
Several types of ferns also thrive in the damp and shady understory: these are long beech ferns (Phegopteris connectilis), which grow in wet boreal and montane forests across Canada. “Guardians of the Rainforest”
These mighty cedars are surrounded by devil’s club (Oplopanax horridus), a plant that bushwalkers do well to avoid: they are covered in wicked spines coated in irritating oils that can penetrate all but the thickest clothing. Natures Artworks : Colours and Patterns in the Bark Nature’s Artworks : Mossy Textures Boardwalk
The elevated boardwalk might have been built for practical accessibility, with its stable and slip resistant surface, and its protected sides – but it still feels enchanted, with the tall, moss-covered trees pressing in close on all sides. Tiered Waters
Rivulets of water work their way down hill. Light in the Leaves
It’s a good thing I didn’t touch these leaves. I thought it was a young maple, but it is more devil’s club! Buttress Root System
Like many rainforest tree species, western red cedars can develop buttress roots. While it was thought that these help protect the massive trees against falling over, is is now believed that they help deliver oxygen to the roots in very wet soils. Fallen
Not all trees survive! Canopy
Those still standing stretch so far into the sky … Tall Trees
… that it is hard to appreciate – or photograph! (iPhone12Pro) Skunk Cabbage – Lysichiton Americanus
In the very wet ground around the waterways, skunk cabbage is growing. Used as a medicinal and an emergency food source, it doesn’t smell as badly when it’s not in bloom. Green and Gold
Gold dust lichens (Chrysothrix) decorate the textured bark of the cedars. These lichens are considered an indicator of good air quality. Bunchberry Dogwood – Cornus Canadensis
I always smile when I come across these pretty little shade-loving ground covers. Bracken Ferns – Pteridium False Solomon’s Seal – Maianthemum Racemosum The Radies Tree: Almost Loved to Death!
This is the base of Radies Tree, thought to be around 1000 years old. As I said earlier, the exposed buttress roots of western red cedars help them with oxygenation. When Radies first saw this tree in 2005, the exposed roots were protected by lichen and moss. By 2015, the feet of the many later visitors had worn the protective covering away, causing potential long-term damage. There is now a makeshift fence around the base, and signs request that people stay on the boardwalk. Natures Artworks – Patterns in Gold It is truly a magical place!
How lucky we are that it has been protected.
Tread Softly!
Photos: 31May2023
Posted in Canada,Nature,TravelTags: British Columbia,Canada,landscape,nature,Photo Blog,Provincial Park,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
Temple Ruins, Olympia
The classic remains of the Ancient Greek Temple of Zeus (470-457 BCE) sit in the dappled light of wild olive-trees that have grown here since time immemorial. Every square inch of Greece has a story to tell.
History imbues the ancient structures and the fallen stones. Even without an education in what was called in the West “The Classics”, the names were all familiar to me from childhood, and I recognised many of the stories. At Olympia, I saw Hera’s alter, where the maidens lit the very first Olympic flame in 776 BCE. Tributes and temples to Zeus and Apollo are everywhere.
Some of the stories are less well-known.
As just one at-first seemingly bizarre example: a statue of Miguel de Cervantes (1547-1616), Spanish author of the well-known literary classic Don Quixote (1605, 1615), stands on the medieval walls of the old Venetian harbour of Nafpaktos, a Greek town on the north coast of the Gulf of Corinth.
Sitting at the entrance to the Corinthian gulf, Nafpaktos and its earlier iterations have always been critically important for mounting defence and collecting taxes. During the Crusades and the Ottoman–Venetian wars, the port changed hands many times. From 1499, the town was part of the Ottoman Empire, and in the 16th century it was used as a naval station by the Ottoman Navy.
This made Europe nervous, so Pope Pius V (1504-1572) formed the Holy League. Naval forces from the Christian European nations launched a naval battle against the Ottoman Empire, winning a decisive victory at the Battle of Lepanto in 1571.
A 23-year-old Cervantes was aboard one of those ships. He received three gunshot wounds: one of which caused him to lose the use of his left arm. Thus, Ottoman expansion across the Mediterranean was halted, and Cervantes was dealt his future as a writer not a fighter.
I was travelling on a small group tour. We left Delphi early morning (see: The Sanctuary of Apollo), stopping briefly to admire the beautiful Venetian battlements on Nafpaktos Harbour. We then traversed the elegant Rion Antirion Bridge across the Gulf of Corinth to the fabled Peloponnese Peninsula, where we visited the UNESCO-listed Archaeological Site of Olympia, home of the original Olympic Games.
Come for a tour:
The Venetian Port
The little town of Nafpaktos sits on a bay on the north coast of the Gulf of Corinth in Western Greece. It boasts a Venetian castle and these well-preserved harbour walls. Miguel de Cervantes
The sculpture here, by Mallorcan sculptor Jaume Mir (1915-2012) shows Cervantes holding up his right arm. His paralyzed left arm hangs by his side. The inscription reads: Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra (1547-1616), a Spanish soldier, a genius of letters, honor of humanity, wounded heroically at the naval battle of Nafpaktos. Venetian Harbour
The morning sun rises over ancient fortifications and modern coffee shops. Giorgos (Georgios) Anemogiannis (1796-1821) and the Flag
Another statue nearby, this one by Nikola Pavlopoulos and erected in 1966, pays tribute to a hero of the Greek Independence War of 1821. Venetian Harbour – Nafpaktos The Rion Antirion Bridge
Before long, we are back on the road, and about to cross the Rion Antirion Bridge over the Gulf of Corinth. Officially called the Charilaos Trikoupis Bridge, the 2380-metre-long (7810 ft; 1.48 mi) structure was completed in 2004. It is the longest fully suspended cable-stayed bridge in the world. (iPhone12Pro) Another Day – Another Museum
It seems every archaeological site has its own museum. Fortunately, all the ones I visited were marvelous, and our guide in the Museum of Olympia was delightful – and very funny. Bronze Miniatures – 6C BCE
The age of some of the artefacts attesting to past civilisations is just staggering! Bull’s Head
Bulls are a common theme across Greece; this Neo-Hittite head apparently dates to the 8th century BCE. West Pediment Temple of Zeus (472-456 BCE)
Painstakingly excavated and put back together, the marble pieces here show the battle between the Lapiths and the Centaurs in Thessaly. The Apollon of Olympia (ca. 460 BCE)
Considered one of the most important statues in the Severe style or early Classical style, the god Apollo indicates his favour towards the humans (the legendary Lapiths) by facing in their direction. Photograph of a Statue Zeus
The temple once housed a magnificent chryselephantine (gold and ivory) statue of Zeus which was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The statue was lost and destroyed before the end of the 6th century CE, and reconstructions are based on descriptions and depictions on metal coins. (iPhone12Pro) Hermes of Olympia (330 BCE)
Discovered in 1877 in the ruins of the Temple of Hera at Olympia, this stunning marble statue of Hermes with the infant Dionysus is traditionally attributed to the renowned sculptor Praxiteles. Marble Statue of Hermes with the Infant Dionysus The Botanical Garden of Olympia
Leaving the museum behind, we walk the short distance through a grove of ancient olives and newly replanted lands that extend to the northern foothills of Kronos Hill. Temple of Hera (590 BCE)
Our first Olympian structure is the partially restored Heraion, which was destroyed by an earthquake in the early 4th century CE. Perfect Pillar
The Temple Of Zeus, built in the second quarter of the fifth century BC, was a classic example of Doric style. Doric Capital
The fluted columns rise up gracefully to a simple capitol. Inside the Sanctuary of Olympia The Crypt
This is the arched passageway the athletes came through to the stadium behind me. The stadium itself is not much to look at, but the stone start and finish lines of the sprint track, and the judges’ seats still survive. In its day, the stadium held 45,000 spectators. Public baths, hostels, a wrestling school, and a gymnasion were nearby. Treasury of Sicyon (470 BCE) Altar of Hera
Back in the Sanctuary, we stand in front of the altar where the Olympic flame has been lit since 1936, using a parabolic mirror to concentrate the rays of the sun. Fallen Doric Columns Flowers on the Judas Tree
The Sanctuary of Zeus has always been known for its olive trees and other greenery; here the Judas trees (Cercis siliquastrum) are starting to bloom. During the original Olympic Games, the flame at the altar burned continuously, symbolising the fire stolen from the Gods by Prometheus.
 Standing on that spot, in the heat of a Grecian sun, it feels like all the intervening years just fall away.
Happy Travels!
Photos: 15September2022
Posted in Greece,History,TravelTags: ancient,Ancient Greece,architecture,Greece,history,landscape,museum,nature,ruins,sculpture,sport,temple,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall,worship
Paying Respect to Mother Ganga
This is the Rishikesh I remember! The holy Ganges River races out of the Himalayan Foothills, past fairy tale ashrams and colourful gods on the way to the plains of northern India. (iPhone12Pro) Rishikesh is a magical city of fairy tale ashrams and colourful gods. The city sits at an auspicious place, where the Ganges – one of the most sacred rivers to Hindus – flows out of the Himalaya and towards the plains. For me, the city’s name alone is evocative of sitar music, pastel-coloured Hindu temples, meditation, the Beatles, and most of all: yoga.
Rishikesh is routinely called the “Yoga Capital of the World” (eg: Inside Hook). After my first visit there in 2013, I said to myself – and to you – that I would love to escape into one of the many yoga ashrams for a long course of study. Almost a full ten years later, I finally made it back: not for a long course, but for a week-long yoga ‘retreat’.
The ‘retreat’ was attached to a yoga teacher-training centre, and located in the busy suburb of Tapovan, with its steep, narrow winding streets full of dogs, cows, and small children. It was autumn, and I hadn’t factored in the unseasonable heat when I booked a room with a fan (no air conditioning). Sweltering at night, I listened to the cows coughing in the street, and vehicle horns blaring, as cars and motorcycles tried to find their way past each other. I was into my third day there before I had a single class; the ‘retreat’ turned out to be more of a test of patience than a practice of yoga (see: Waiting for the Ganga Aarti).
But, my week included some fascinating excursions – including my favourite: to the Beatles Ashram (Chaurasi Kutia) – and for all the frustrations of dealing with completely disorganised ‘organisers’, I loved it.
Join me:
Rishikesh Street-Scene
Through the window in the reception area of my hotel, I watched the bustling street, and thought to myself that this is not like any ‘retreat’ I’ve experienced! (iPhone12Pro) Garden at my Home for the Week
My simple room came with a fan, which I soon discovered was no match for the unseasonable 35°C (95°F) night-time temperatures!
(iPhone12Pro) Rishikesh Roof Tops
It was no cooler early next morning when I got ready for an excursion into the hills. (iPhone12Pro) Hindu Temple in the Middle of Nowhere
I was told to arrive at 7am, so I did. The bus didn’t leave until 7:30. It wound it’s sickening way up mountain hairpins for almost two hours before we we stopped at Itharna Temple in Gadool, a Shiva temple of some local importance. (iPhone12Pro) Temple Bells
I’m always happy to ring a bell – which announces one’s presence and intent, and focuses the mind – even though half my attention was on the lack of breakfast!
(iPhone12Pro) Gods and Sages In The Trees
Icons, offerings, and ritual fires are always everywhere. (iPhone12Pro) Blessings from a Hindu Priest
I was very pleased that the resident priest was happy to have his picture made after he blessed me with red tilak. Women Working
The temple sits at 1600 m (5249 ft). On the steep hills below, life goes on. (iPhone12Pro) In the Field
I gave up waiting for the promised breakfast to materialize, and bravely pulled out my brand-new cameras and turned them on. Gadool Hills
I had just switched to mirrorless camera bodies, and changed from Canon to Sony systems; everything felt different. I was lucky that anything came out in focus! The Rice Fields of Home
The next morning I was up early for a class that never happened; I found a mat and did my own thing before walking down our long hill in search of some food and spiced tea. (iPhone12Pro) Red and Green
I love the contrast of this woman’s clothing against the field she’s working in; much like the contrast between the busy street I’m on and the virtual countryside below. (iPhone12Pro) Chai Wallah
Once I found a samosa and a masala chai in a clay cup, all was right with the world again! (iPhone12Pro) Nandi at your Service
Before climbing back up the hill for my proper breakfast, I stopped in at a tiny local temple. Vashishtha Gufa Temple
Our mid-morning excursion that day was to a famous meditation cave, a half hour to the east of us. Gate on the Ganges
The temple was built around 1930 to be in proximity with the nearby caves. The rock on the foreshore points the way to the Arundhatī (washed by the rays of sun) Gufa (cave). Lizard – Agama Iguanian
It’s a short, but very rocky, walk to the cave; I pause to admire a small iguana sunning on the cliff wall. Inside a Meditation Cave
It is cool and dark inside the cave, and the energy is conducive to quiet meditation. Arundhati’s Cave – the smaller of the two – has also been called the Jesus Cave after one swami (Papa Ramdas) had visions of Jesus during his meditations here in the 1930s. The Shrine
One story says the sage Vashistha meditated here for “a long time” after the death of his hundred children. Another says this is where he was born. Either way, we paid our respects before leaving. Agama Iguanian – Lizard
Back outside, the lizards have changed colour! Common Mormon Butterflies – Papilio Polytes
Butterflies were everywhere on the sandy edges outside the cave. Indian Cabbage White (Pieris Canidia), Lime Butterfly (Papilio Demoleus), and Common Mormon (Papilio Polytes)
They were wonderful to watch! The Ganges
With the verdant foothills all around, the Ganges keeps flowing … (iPhone12Pro) Vashishtha Cave Temple
… and we work our way back up past the temple. Rescue Animals
As distressing it is to see animals in this condition, it is good to know that Vashishtha Gufa Temple is looking after them now. THIS is the Rishikesh I Remember!
This would be my most treasured moment: yoga on the Ganges ghats across from the thirteen-story concoction that is the Trayambakeshwar Temple. Good Morning, Mother Ganga!
After leading us through our morning Hatha class, our instructor kindly posed for me. (iPhone12Pro) Bathing in the Ganges
Not far from us, people were washing away their sins. I went into the river up to my ankles; I guess I am partially absolved. (iPhone12Pro) Trimurti Gurudatt Ashram
It is as if these buildings on Mother Ganga are made from royal icing sugar! (iPhone12Pro) Morning Practice
While waiting for my last class, this was the scene that met me. I’m a long way from able to do this! (iPhone12Pro) Saints and yogis have been meditating on the banks of Ganges since antiquity. Finally it was my turn! I’m not sure I gained any enlightenment, but I tested my patience, and I had fun.
I’ll have to go back and try again …
Photos: 02-06September2023
Posted in India,TravelTags: architecture,blog,environmental portrait,hindu,hinduism,landscape,Photo Blog,Religious Practice,temple,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Emerald Railway Station
Australia is a coastal country, with more than 90 percent of the population living within 100km of the ocean. As soon as you drive inland a short distance, the pace of development and change slows right down. There, you are in farming territory, with small communities, and a lot of empty space. I do love road trips!
And when I’m on one, other ones I’ve taken come to mind: whether it’s because of comparisons or contrasts. I’ve just spent some time winding up and down through the magnificent mountains of Western Canada – which counter-intuitively made me think of the straight and lonely stretches of highway through Queensland, Australia. I was talking to the Canadian driver of an electric car, and I couldn’t help but remember the number of times I’ve been holding my breath on almost-deserted Australian country roads, feverantly hoping that there’s an open petrol station soon.
This all motivated me to return to a set of photos I took some years ago as I was working my way back south through Queensland canefields, farmlands, and small country communities. The cameras were all packed up, so the pictures are taken with my iPhone12Pro and are more about ‘mood’ than photographic excellence.
It was in 2021. We were still in the grip of Covid19 lockdowns, which meant no overseas travel, and watching local conditions carefully to avoid hot-spots. I had driven up to Port Douglas, in Queensland (see: Travelling North), and was heading back south. With patchy internet, GoogleMaps, and Booking.com, I worked out my stopping points ahead of time – making sure my driving days were kept reasonably short.
My planned route was inland – staying off the busier National A1 Highway, and avoiding the worst of the cyclones ravaging the coast. Just south of Cairns, in Far North Queensland, I turned west, following the lesser-used highways south to the New South Wales border.
Join me for a country drive.
The Calm Before the Cyclone
At Deeral, Queensland, just south of Cairns, I started hearing the reports of incoming storms. It was time to turn away from the Coral Sea and the stunning coastline before the winds arrived! Raptors on the Road
On the Gregory Highway, somewhere in the Charters Towers Region of Queensland, it was just me and the raptors for miles and miles. I saw no other vehicles, and very few dwellings. At one point, I startled a group of birds – mostly hawks, I think – gathered on a road kill. Above the Lonely Highway
I stopped to watch them for a while, but they were leery of getting close while I was there. Belyando Crossing
Having seen the warning sign: “Next Petrol 200km”, I’d been watching the fuel gauge and my mileage closely. But, I must have blinked! I passed this, then saw another sign: “Next Petrol 200km”. Needless to say, I made a quick U-turn. I stopped in to fill the tank and grab a snack and a comfort stop before continuing south. Lattice and Fresh Paint
Emerald is a more substantial town than many along my route, and I was delighted to come across their heritage-listed Railway Station on my morning walk. The Road Ahead
After a breakfast in Emerald that was worthy of a trendy inner-city cafe, I was back on the almost-empty Gregory Highway in the Central Highlands. Minerva Hills National Park
The sight of that jagged ridge of volcanic peaks on the horizon grabbed my attention; … A Little Red Tractor
… and I had to pull off the highway to have a closer look. I have put the Minerva Hills on my ‘to visit one day’ list! Albert ‘Bert’ Edward Shaw
Apparently, the tiny town of Injune is known for ‘a lively interest in the arts.’ I stopped for lunch and took time admiring a series of rustic metal statues depicting local identities along the main street. What a delightful way to jazz up your town and share some local history! Queensland Bottle Tree (Brachychiton Rupestris)
Roma, where I stopped for a night, is a rural town in the Maranoa Region, and is home to more bottle trees than I have ever seen in one place! Queensland Bottle Tree
Tall and leafy, they store water in their trunks, making them drought resistant. Brachychiton Rupestris
The trees are endemic to Queensland, and are not related to baobabs, which they resemble loosely. Bottle Tree in the Park
Roma uses the species extensively for street and park plantings, and even has a heritage-listed Avenue of Heroes, with 140 trees standing in tribute to local soldiers fallen in the First World War. A Fixer-Upper?
The other thing that stood out for me around town was the variety of building styles. Houses on stilts are common to protect against flash-flooding. A Country Queensland Homestead
A newer, lived-in home, also on stilts – has the necessary rain storage tank in the back, and an Australian flag flying proudly out front. Weathered and Worn
Paint doesn’t last long in this harsh and changeable climate. School of Arts Hotel
The pub, of course, is the centre of town. Built in 1918, the rambling hotel includes 44 simple bedrooms upstairs. Another House on Stilts
It’s hard to know how old some of these cobbled-together houses are! Wildflowers in the Grass
Mexican sunflowers always make me smile! Hebel Hotel
This is a typical ‘Queenslander’: a building style developed in the 1840s to help deal with the climate in Australia’s eastern subtropics. The corrugated iron roof and deep, wrap-around, veranda help protect residents from periods of high rainfall alternating with pounding sunlight. It seems fitting that a ‘Queenslander’ was the last building that grabbed my attention before I slipped over the border into the state of New South Wales.
 It always amazes me how much the landscape and architecture change, even within short distances, as one drives.
Safe Travels!
Photos: 27February-02March2021
Posted in Architecture,Australia,TravelTags: architecture,Australia,nature,Photo Blog,Queensland,road trip,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Basilique Saint-Sernin de Toulouse
The largest remaining Romanesque building in Europe, this beautiful basilica is an important stop along the UNESCO-listed French pilgrimage route to the Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Toulouse, France’s fourth-largest city and the capital of the southern Occitanie region, was an unexpected treat.
My husband and I were stopped there for two nights in transit, and had enjoyed our time wandering through the public gardens (see: Public Art and Gardens) and admiring the narrow cobbled streets and ancient buildings. What I didn’t know until later is that one of the buildings we were admiring, the Basilique Saint-Sernin, was actually UNESCO-heritage listed for its historic connection to a French portion of the Camino de Santiago, the Way of St. James. The Romanesque church, consecrated in 1096, was the most important stop in Southwest France for pilgrims walking to Galicia in northwestern Spain.
The city itself is layered with history. Originally founded by the Romans, Toulouse was the capital of the Visigothic Kingdom in the 5th century and the capital of the province of Languedoc in the Late Middle Ages and early modern period. Traces of the Romance language that evolved from Latin in the region – known as Occitan, Langue d’Oc, or Provençal – can still be heard.
Linguistically, Occitan is closer to the Catalan spoken in Andorra and parts of eastern Spain than it is to French, and the Languedoc regions did not historically consider themselves part of the Kingdom of France. That all changed after the Albigensian Crusade (1209–1229) against the Cathars.
The Cathars, or self-identified ‘Good Christians’, were part of a loosely organised movement of pseudo-Gnostics which thrived in Southern Europe. Because they eschewed some of the teachings – and all of the excesses – of the Catholic Church, they were pronounced heretics. Pope Innocent III (1198 -1216) first tried to end Catharism by sending out missionaries, then launched the crusade against them – and their protectors, including the Count Raymond VI of Toulouse (1156 – 1222) – in 1209.
The twenty-year-long Albigensian Crusade (and the Medieval Inquisition which followed it) has been called a genocide: it was largely political and was ultimately effective. Long story short, there was a significant reduction in the number of practicing Cathars, the County of Toulouse became aligned with the French crown, and the distinct regional culture of Languedoc was diminished.
Since that time, Toulouse has been a solid Catholic bastion, which shows in its architecture.
Bicycles in Toulouse
European cities – or the city centres, at least – tend to be bicycle and pedestrian friendly. Le Télégramme – Rue Gabriel Péri and Rue des 7 Troubadours
Streets run off in odd directions, and buildings nestle in where they can. This example, with its bluish gray slate roof and its stone and brick polychrome walls, is a distinctive Toulouse landmark. The Toulouse Telegram
Designed by brother architects, Antoine and Raymond Isidore, as the home of one of Toulouse’s four main newspapers, the building, finished in 1912, has since been retrofitted several times. The Cathedral of Saint Stephen
Down another narrow street, we find the chevet, or east end, of the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne, with its massive buttresses – built with the expectation that the choir would be much taller than it is. Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Toulouse
Built on the site of an earlier Romanesque cathedral, the current building was started at the beginning of the 13th century (1210–1220). Called ‘militant religious architecture’, this more austere Southern French Gothic style of building was an attempt to woo back Catholics who had turned to Catharism – which advocated a more pious austerity. Heritage-listed by the French Ministry of Culture, the cathedral is still the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Toulouse, and is considered emblematic of the city and its historic joining into the Kingdom of France. Balconies in the Pink City
Many of the city’s buildings are constructed from pinkish terracotta bricks – earning Toulouse its La Ville Rose (The Pink City) nickname. City Streets
Residential streets are broad boulevards, full of leafy trees. Dogs are everywhere! Capitole de Toulouse
The next morning we found ourselves in the massive square at the Capitole. The 135 m (443 ft) wide main façade of the city hall was built between 1750 and 1760 in the Neoclassical style from the characteristic local pink brick. In the Café
The square is bounded by cafés and other small businesses. Petit-Déjeuner – Gaufre à la Crème Florist
Temporary businesses set up in the square daily. Rue du Taur
Wandering the old cobbled streets lined with candy-coloured buildings was a delight. Rue du Taur (Street of the Bull), which runs between the Place du Capitole and Place Saint-Sernin, is so named because it is here that Saint-Saturnin (Sernin) was martyred during the 3rd century. The Romans had tied him to a furious bull that dragged him through the streets. Notre Dame du Taur
The original building here was a Roman Catholic oratory built on the exact spot the patron saint of Toulouse, Saint Saturnin, was reputedly dropped by the bull in the year 250. What we see now was built between the 14th–16th centuries in Southern French Gothic, or Meridional Gothic, style. Saint François d’Assise
This current building was classified as a historic monument in 1840, and has been UNESCO-listed since 1998 under the Paths of Saint Jacques de Compostela in France. Saints flank the portal of the west facade of the building’s clock tower. Basilique Saint-Sernin de Toulouse
The number of pilgrims stopping at the Notre Dame du Taur to pay respects to Saint Saturnin was overwhelming, and in the 11th century, a larger church was started to accommodate them. Saturnin’s bones and other relics were transferred to this larger basilica. Basilique Saint-Sernin Bell Tower
The commanding bell tower is divided into five tiers: the lower three, with their Romanesque arches, date from the 12th century, and the upper two Gothic sections date from the 13th century. The spire was added much later, in the 15th century. Renaissance Gate to the Abbey The Miègeville Gate – Circa 1100 Ancient Icons
The interior of the basilica is dark, and decorated with old iconographic artwork. I think this is theologian and philosopher Saint Augustine. Deep Window The Cross Colours and Textures
Back outside the Saint Sernin Basilica, the spring air is full of the scent of flowers. Outside the Basilica
The massive, ancient building looks different from every angle. The Apse
The beautiful brickwork in the apse of the Basilica Saint-Sernin is immediately recognisable. Café
There is always somewhere close at hand to stop for coffee. Stade Toulousain Rugby
These old buildings are in constant need of love and attention … Derelicts
… and some have fallen by the wayside. Having seen a lot and walked a lot, we returned to our accommodation to prepare for the long train north to Paris the next day.
 Of course, we stopped along the way for another wonderful meal.
Bon Appétit!
Photos: 24-25April2011
Posted in Architecture,France,TravelTags: architecture,cathedral,Catholic,landscape,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall,worship
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