A woodhip freighter on the private wharf, Eden NSW Australia

Collecting Wood Chips
On the long wharf, privately owned by Allied Natural Wood Exports, a freighter fills its belly with controversial wood chips.

The little Port of Eden, near where I live in Far South New South Wales (NSW), is a busy working seaport.

Situated on Twofold Bay, halfway between Sydney and Melbourne, it is one of the deepest natural harbours in the Southern Hemisphere. This makes it ideal for large vessels – including the Royal Australian Navy ships who regularly pull into their designated wharf while on maneuvers or to access the nearby land-based munitions store. The port hosts an Australian Border Force office, and services the occasional import and export vessels, with the principal export being timber products – including wood chips from the local factory. It has long been home to a small fishing fleet.

Today, tourism is a growing business.

Every year, principally in October and November, thousands of humpback whale migrate close to the Eden coastline as they make their way south to feeding grounds in Antarctica. Many are females, with new calves born in the warmer waters further north. For several months, whale watching trips can advertise ‘guaranteed sightings’ of these magnificent creatures.

An expanded dock in Eden has seen a growth in the number of cruise ships stopping in town, with 41  of them stopping during the 2023/24 season. Smaller operators take tourists on fishing charters or whale watching trips. A number of pleasure boats and recreational fishing vessels make their home here, and it is a welcome refuge for long-distance yachts in inclement weather.

To keep a listening watch over the many vessels on the waters here, Marine Rescue NSW operates a Search and Rescue Centre (SARC) in Eden – and it was as a volunteer with that organisation that I was invited onto an October whale-watching cruise on the Cat Balou catamaran. The vessel and her company have changed owners since, but they are still whale-watching along the Sapphire Coast.

This was not my first trip out on that catamarin (see: Watching Water and Watching Water 2), and I had learned that seeing a whale was a bit like the blind men and the elephant: you might see a blow, or a hump, or a tail, but you were unlikely to see the whole animal!

Still, I love being on the water, so I jumped at the offer. We were still in the grips of Covid-19 restrictions, which meant reduced passenger numbers on the boat, making it even more special.

On a photographic note: my brain was on a go-slow, and I lost a lot of pictures because I didn’t set my camera speed to compensate for the motion of the vessel on the water. Oh well!

I hope you enjoy what I salvaged:

View of boats docked in Eden Harbour, NSW Australia

Leaving Twofold Bay
Twofold Bay was named by English explorer and naval surgeon George Bass (1771 –1803) for its two bights. A range of working vessels berth here in Eden Harbour.

Two tugboats in Snug Cove, Eden Harbour, NSW Australia

Tugboats in Snug Cove
With large ships visiting regularly, two tugs sit at the ready in the harbour.

Two Australian pelicans on the water, Eden Harbour, NSW Australia

Pelicans in Snug Cove
Where there are fishing boats – and fish – there are bound to be gulls and pelicans.

Australian pelican on the water, Eden Harbour, NSW Australia

Australian Pelican – Pelecanus Conspicillatus
Australian pelicans are large water birds – although they are only medium-sized by pelican standards. They have the longest bill of any living bird.

Cabin of Cat Balou from the deck, Eden Harbour, NSW Australia

Cat Balou
There is plenty of room on the deck of the catamaran to move around.

Orange freighter, Navy Dock, Eden Harbour, NSW Australia

Ship on the Navy Dock
It is a busy day on the water. A large freighter is moored here on the Navy Wharf; in the distance, another freighter takes on a load of wood chips at the private pier.

Workers on an orange ship, Eden Harbour, NSW Australia

Workers on a Visiting Ship
We pull along side, and I can watch the seamen who look tiny on the decks. I couldn’t distinguish their language, but a lot of the seafarers on these freighters are from the Philippines.

Red Rocks in the water, East Boyd Bay, Eden, NSW Australia

Red Rocks on East Boyd Bay
This coast is known for its sapphire blue waters, white beaches, and red rocks coloured by iron oxide.

Great cormorants on a channel marker, East Boyd Bay, Eden, NSW Australia

Cormorants on the Marker
Great cormorants (Phalacrocorax carbo) are one of three types we see regularly around this coast.

Logging truck on a long wharf, East Boyd Bay, Eden, NSW Australia

Private Wharf
Timber exports are still a big part of the local economy. The bush fires of 2019-20 raged through here in early January 2020: a pile of woodchips from the mill ended up burning for days. Blackened tree trunks are still visible from the water.

Boyds Tower on Red Point Eden from the water, NSW Australia

Boyd’s Tower
The square tower on Red Point was built from Pyrmont (Sydney) sandstone in 1847 by Scottish entrepreneur Benjamin Boyd. The January 2020 fires razed the bush here; although the ground is greening up, the trees are still skeletons.

Boyds Tower on Red Point Eden from the water, NSW Australia

South of Red Point
We round the aptly-named Red Point. The commanding twenty-three metre (75 ft) Boyd’s Tower was intended as a private lighthouse, but was only ever used as a lookout in the days of Eden’s whale hunting.

Tail of a humpback with water splashing, Eden, NSW Australia

Whale Tail
The eagle eyes of our captain have spotted a whale.

Three dolphins in wavy water off a boat, Eden, NSW Australia

Dolphin Abstract
A school of dolphins play with the boat. We get bottlenose and common dolphins around here, but with the distortion from the waters, I have no idea which these are.

Humpback back, Eden, NSW Australia

Humpback Back
As I said earlier, the shape and enormous size of a humpback is impossible to discern from the bits that make it above the water.

Dolphin in wavy water off a boat, Eden, NSW Australia

Dolphin
The dolphins are a joy to watch as they bullet past the boat.

Large splash of water in front of the Eden coast, NSW Australia

Splash!
Clearly, the whales are breaching the water – just not where we can see them properly! That is Mount Imlay in the background, rising up from the landscape.

Tail of a humpback with water splashing, Eden, NSW Australia

Another Whale Tail
Closer to the vessel, the best we can spot are tail-slaps …

Tail of a humpback, Eden, NSW Australia

White Fluke
… and the flash of a tail’s underside as the giant mammal does a deep-dive and disappears.

Two dolphins in wavy water off a boat, Eden, NSW Australia

A Suggestion of Dolphins

Inside the Cat Balou, Eden, NSW Australia

The Captain’s Chair

Australasian gannet in flight against a blue sky, Eden, NSW Australia

Australasian Gannet – Morus Serrator
Given how uncooperative the whales and dolphins had been …

Australasian gannet in flight against a blue sky, Eden, NSW Australia

Morus Serrator – Australasian Gannet
… I was thrilled to capture some local bird-life!

White-bellied sea-eagle in flight against a blue sky, Eden, NSW Australia

White-Bellied Sea-Eagle – Haliaeetus Leucogaster
The eagle was much further away, but I love watching them against the sky.

It was a lovely morning on the water.

One day, I’ll be there when the whales breach!

Text: Safe Sailing

Until then,

Safe Sailing

Pictures: 02October2020

Tomatoes, aubergines, onions and carrots for sale, Usilampatti market, Tamil Nadu India

Colourful Vegetables
I love the fresh-food markets of India, with their multicoloured foodstuffs and smiling people. This one in the town of Usilampatti in Tamil Nadu offered a range of fresh produce.

One of the things I love about India – and which always surprises me – is the extent and beauty of the countryside.

As of April 2023, India was estimated to have overtaken China as the most populous country in the world. In spite of that, you can drive great distances through an agrarian landscape, where people are thinly scattered as they engage in labour-intensive farming activities and small industry.

We were driving on a small-group adventure across South India in a mini bus. Having toured Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry in the east for nine days (see: Weekly Wanders Tamil Nadu), we were en route to neighbouring Kerala in the west.

We had driven for about an hour, west out of Madurai (see: Life Colour and Crowds), passing large fields – both fallow and neatly planted – before we stopped in Usilampatti for a walk through the morning market. Usilampatti is classified as a ‘town’, even though it has ten times the population of my home town!

Any visitor to these pages knows I love markets – so I was very pleased with the stop and the chance to interact with the locals away from the typical ‘tourist sites’.

The terrain around Usilampatti consists of pocket of red clay, making the area home to small brickwork factories. We stopped at one to watch the labourers form up the clay for sun-drying and kiln baking. Our guide makes this particular cottage industry a regular stop on his tours, and had collected all our hotel toothbrush kits for the children of the workers. I was pleased to see that the children themselves were in school: literacy rates in this part of India are much better than the national average.

Join me exploring some ‘town life’ in Southern India:

Grassy fields, mountains in the background, from a bus window, Usilampatti India

Scenes from a Bus : Mountains in the Distance
We are not far out of Madurai on India’s NH85 when we leave all traces of that ancient city on the Vaigai River behind. (iPhone 12Pro)

Man outside his house/shop doorway with baskets of vegetables, Usilampatti market, Tamil Nadu Ind

Man with his Vegetable Baskets
It is barely 9:00am in the morning but the Usilampatti market is already hot and bustling. (iPhone12Pro)

Small aubergines. Usilampatti market, Tamil Nadu India

Aubergines – Eggplants – BrinjalBaigan
Whatever local name you give to solanum melongena, it is a staple in Indian cooking.

Tomatoes, aubergines, onions and carrots for sale, Usilampatti market, Tamil Nadu India

Baskets of Veggies in the Market
The colours everywhere are wild!

A pile of bitter melon in the Usilampatti market, Tamil Nadu India

Bitter Melon – Momordica Charantia
This fruit is used in numerous dishes in South Indian cuisine.

Indian woman making flowers garlands, Usilampatti market, Tamil Nadu India

Woman Fixing Flowers
Everywhere you go in India, you find flowers woven into garlands for temple offerings. It is the seated patience of the people painstakingly putting the garlands together that always amazes me!

Flower stalls, Usilampatti market, Tamil Nadu India

Flower Stalls
There are a number of outlets selling garlands; they all look the same to me!

Fish laid out on a table, Usilampatti market, Tamil Nadu India

Fish Sellers
I don’t know if these are fresh or salt water; we’re a decent distance from the ocean or any sizeable lakes.

Portrait: two Indian boys, Usilampatti market, Tamil Nadu

Boys in the Market

Men at a flower stall, Usilampatti market, Tamil Nadu India

Men in the Market
The locals are all friendly and welcoming.

Laneway through Usilampatti market, Tamil Nadu India

Market Corridor
Light and dark alternate wildly with makeshift shade covers in place to protect the produce.

Portrait: an Indian man behind a pile of coconut fruit, Usilampatti market, Tamil Nadu

A Man in the Coconuts

Man seated on a milk crate at the back of a truck filled with fruit, Usilampatti, Tamil Nadu

Fruit Truck
Near the main road outside the market, an opportunistic vender tries to capture passing trade.

People working in an Usilampatti brick factory, Tamil Nadu India

Usilampatti Brickworks
A short distance down the road, we stop at a small brick factory, and learn how clay building bricks are made. This is a  labour intensive exercise, and historically, working conditions in brick yards were very poor (see: The Dark Side of the India Economic Boom).

Rows of bricks drying, Usilampatti brick factory, Tamil Nadu India

Rows of Bricks
Brick manufacture is growing as the demand for building products expands. Even a small factory like this one can produce 16,000 bricks a day.

Labourers at a table making bricks, Usilampatti brick factory, Tamil Nadu India

Moving the Brick Forms
There is concern about the reduction in fertile topsoil as a consequence of brick production. It is hard and repetitive work: a slurry of brick mud is packed into a form, smoothed out …

Rows of bricks drying, Usilampatti brick factory, Tamil Nadu India

MNR Bricks
… and stamped with a company logo before the form is removed and the bricks are left to dry in the sun.

Rows of bricks drying, Usilampatti brick factory, Tamil Nadu India

Patterns in the Brickworks
I love the pattern the repeated bricks make. (iPhone12Pro)

Portrait: an Indian woman, Usilampatti brick factory, Tamil Nadu India

Woman at the Usilampatti Brickworks
We thank the co-owner of the factory and take our leave.

Rows of vegetables in the field, Uthamapalayam, Tamil Nadu India.

Rows And Lines
Two hours later, the vegetables still line up in the field and the mountains around Uthamapalayam dance on the horizon. (iPhone12Pro)

Our little group continued west, climbing into the Nilgiri Mountains – part of the Western Ghats – and finally into the Cardamom Hills of Kerala.

More on that some other time.

Happy Wandering!

Pictures: 27January2023

The Lee Boys and Calvin Cooke on the Grassy Knoll Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

A History of Sacred Steel with the Lee Boys and Calvin Cooke
The Grassy Knoll is a well-named little stage set-up at the Vancouver Island MusicFest. I was there bright and early on the Saturday morning – with a freshly-brewed coffee in hand and the sun overhead – to hear Alvin Lee explain the concept of ‘Sacred Steel’ and to demonstrate the sounds.

From folk to flamenco, from guzheng to Gypsy jazz, from poetry to Asian fusion: the lineup on day 2 of the 30th annual Vancouver Island Musicfest in Comox, BC, was undoubtedly eclectic!

Unlike the evening before (see: Expanding Boundaries: Vancouver Island Musicfest #1) when only the Concert Bowl mainstage was in play, during the day on the Saturday, five additional stages were operating. Four of these were due to start by 10:00am. Clearly I was going to have my work cut out for me.

The weather was glorious when I arrived in the morning to check out the site. Map and program in hand, I made my way to the Grassy Knoll, a small stage on a grassy hillock with facing bleachers intended to create a mini amphitheatre feeling. I managed to grab a coffee and arrive just as Alvin Lee (Uncle Al) was about to explain the roots of what they call “Sacred steel”: a unique form of blues-based Gospel music infused with rhythm and blues, jazz, rock, funk, hip-hop, country, and influences from other cultures.

Meanwhile, all around the site, single performers, bands, and even groups of bands were starting up. I wandered around enjoying the sun, the music, the venue, and the surrounding woods, taking in as much as I could. Some of the programs were billed as workshops / discussions; others were groupings of different artists under thematic titles; and the rest of the performances were more conventional ‘concerts’.

It was a long and full day which was musically rewarding.

Photographically, however, I struggled. Several of the volunteer organisers took issue with me carrying cameras around – although none could articulate what the actual problem was. I was well out of the way each time I was spoken to, and everyone else was taking video and still pictures with their phones! But, this made me extra mindful to not get in the way – however briefly. The stage set-up requires people at the front to sit, so walking around and getting any close-up pictures was almost impossible.

Add to this the bright sun, shaded woods and stages, and the very dark interior of The Barn, and I was constantly changing settings on cameras with which I’m still not adept.

But, it was a long day and I did take a lot of pictures in spite of it all – always hoping for ‘the one’. I’ve decided to allow myself a few extra images in this set, and to try to keep the words to a minimum.

Enjoy!

The Lee Boys on the Grassy Knoll Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

The Lee Boys
Alvin Lee on lead guitar demonstrates the progression of sounds in what is called ‘Sacred Steel’ Gospel music.

Alvin "Lil Al" Cordy on the Grassy Knoll Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Alvin “Lil Al” Cordy on Bass

Louis Frank Owens on the Grassy Knoll Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Frank “The Professor” Owens on Pedal Steel

Calvin Cooke on lap steel guitar, the Grassy Knoll Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

“Living Legend” Calvin Cooke
Eighty years old, and nominally retired, Calvin Cooke has been immersed in the Sacred Steel gospel traditions of Afro-American Pentecostal churches all his life, and has clearly earned the “Living Legend” sobriquet.

Peter Paul Van Camp reciting a poem, Grierson Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Peter Paul Van Camp
By way of complete contrast to the joyful, heartfelt gospel I had left behind, I found Peter Paul Van Camp reading one of his quirky and thoughtful poems on the Grierson Stage.

Peter Paul Van Camp reading on the Grierson Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Poems, Prayers and Promises
Performer Wayne Levesque looks on as Peter Paul Van Camp leafs through his book of verse.

Lester Quitzau on the Grierson Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Lester Quitzau
The session is called Poems, Prayers and Promises, and includes a number of performers for whom the words are as important as the harmony – like award winning Roots/Blues singer songwriter Lester Quitzau.

The Woodland Stage from the rear, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Woodland Stage
Determined to explore the whole festival venue, I found myself at the little Woodland Stage. Set up like a Gypsy tent in the forest, it is an intimate performance space.

Christy Vanden on the Woodland Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Christy Vanden
The set at the Woodland Stage was half way through, but I was there long enough to admire Christy Vanden’s delicate guitar and sweet vocals.

Gordie Tentrees on the Woodland Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Gordie Tentrees
Next up on the Woodland Stage were some irreverent and mesmerising story-telling songs from International Acoustic Music Award winner Gordie Tentrees.

on the Woodland Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Gordie Tentrees & Jaxon Haldane
He was joined on stage by Jaxon Haldane, who is as magic on the guitar and banjo as he is producing hauntingly eerie sounds on the wood saw.

John McLachlan performing on the Concert Bowl Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

John McLachlan on the Concert Bowl Stage

Performers on the Grierson Stage for Asian Culture Old and New, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Asian Culture Old and New
Back on the Grierson Stage, three separate musical acts were collected for an Asian-influenced session …

Jing Xia on the Grierson Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Jing Xia
… called: Asian Culture Old and New. Award winning guzheng artist Jing Xia joyfully shares her music.

Danhae Oh from Second Moon on the Grierson Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Danhae Oh
Second Moon, whom I’d seen briefly the day before (see: Expanding Boundaries), took their turn on the Asian Culture stage. Danhae Oh’s vocal prowess is breathtaking!

Yunjeong Jo on the Grierson Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Yunjeong Jo – Second Moon

Hyunbo Kim on the Grierson Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Hyunbo Kim – Second Moon

Benj Rowland performing in the Barn, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Multi-Instrumentalist Benj Rowland on Hurdy-Gurdy
In The Barn, the composite session is entitled: Who Are We?

Grace Petrie and Ben Moss performing in The Barn, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Grace Petrie and Ben Moss
Independant English folk singer-songwriters who collaborated on the Barn Stage, these two performed some sweet-sounding but hard-hitting songs. (iPhone15Pro)

Performers on The Barn stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Belén Rojas and Friend
As part of the Chilean duo Chola y Gitano, Bella and another musician who’s name I couldn’t find, provide accompaniment to …

Damián Gallardo dancing in The Barn, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Gitano (Gypsy)
… Damián Gallardo as he performs …

Damián Gallardo dancing in The Barn, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Damián Gallardo
… some dramatically percussive footwork.

Footwork: Flamenco dance from Chola y Gitano, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Flamenco Footwork

Pablo Simón Zárate Zavala on accordion, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Accordion
Fellow-Chilean, Pablo Simón Zárate Zavala joins the party.

Lester Quitzau was on the Crossroads Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Workshop on Slide Guitar
Back outside amongst the trees, Lester Quitzau was on the Crossroads Stage talking about – and demonstrating – the way different well-known artists had approached slide guitar over the years.

1951 Austin panel van with a stuffed moose on the roof, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

1951 Austin Panel Van
Music festivals are often associated with hippies and camping out. This delightful installation by Burnaby resident Lyle Brown-John plays on those ideas.

Christy Vanden performing in the Barn, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Christy Vanden
In another themed session in The Barn, some of the Canadian performers at the festival paid “Tribute to the Great Canadian Songwriters”.

Wayne Levesque and backup, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Wayne Levesque
On the Grassy Knoll, Wayne Levesque tells stories of living and working in the wilds of BC.

Christine Tassan et les Imposteures on stage at the Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Christine Tassan et les Imposteures
They had me at “Gypsy Jazz!” The CD I bought has already had multiple runs-through.

Stephanie Chou singing, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Stephanie Chou
As if by way of complete contrast, the next performance on the Concert Bowl Stage was the Stephanie Chou Quintet. New York-based composer, saxophonist, and singer Stephanie Chou blends Chinese musical influences with Western jazz.

Leon Timbo on guitar, Concert Bowl Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Leon Timbo
The Concert Bowl Stage was the only one still operating. I seated myself as centrally as I could and enjoyed some very different musical genres. Country-soul singer-songwriter Leon Timbo’s style incorporates soul, gospel, and funk.

Leo Kottke on guitar, Concert Bowl Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Leo Kottke
Fancy-fingered and softly spoken, acoustic guitarist Leo Kottke followed.

Lucinda Williams, Concert Bowl Stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada.

Lucinda Williams
Multi-Grammy-winning country blues songwriter Lucinda Williams had the audience on its feet.

Text: To the MusicNight had descended, and the audience no longer heeded the signage about sitting areas. People rushed in front of the stage and blocked the view of those of us who’d sat patiently in the full sun all afternoon.

I decided to forgo the last act of the day and headed to the Merch tent to buy some new CDs before heading home.

It had been a good day, and I certainly got my steps in!

Photos: 13July2024

15th century Venetian Bourtzi Castle Fortress in Nafplio Harbour, Greece

Old and New
Every nook and cranny in Greece is layered in history. For example: in the middle of Nafplio Harbour there is a beautiful, historic castle – Bourtzi Castle Fortress – built by the Venetians between 1471 and 1473. On ancient Mount Arachnaion in the background, controversial wind turbines generate energy for the Peloponnese region.

I loved everything about Greece.

I love Greek coffee and food. I loved the landscape and the architecture, and the history layered within it all. I loved how the place names were both exotic and vaguely familiar from long-forgotten school lessons.

And, I loved the variety that was in every day of the small-group tour I took part in on the mainland.

In just one morning on the Peloponnese Peninsula, we drove through the spectacular mountains and charming villages between Dimitsana (see: Mountain Villages and Hidden Monasteries) and Nafplion (Nafplio), where we visited a family run distillery to learn about the making of ouzo, that anise-infused quintessentially Greek liquor. An alcohol taste-testing at ten in the morning is a risky business: I bought more than one bottle!

We were given a few free hours to explore the sites, streets, shops, and eateries of Nafplio, a delightful seaside town that was once the capital of Greece. Then, back in our bus to continue across the Peloponnese to ancient Epidaurus (Epidavros), the most famous healing centre of the Ancient Greek and Roman world. There, we had a locally guided tour of the museum and the magnificent UNESCO-listed third-century theatre.

Our last stop of the day before continuing to Athens was at the Corinth Canal. First conceived of in the 7th century BCE, and finally completed and opened in 1893, this 6.4 km (4.0 mile) cleft through the Isthmus of Corinth is interesting, but too narrow to be of much practical value today.

Do join me:

Morning view of Dimitsana from the En Dimitsani Guest House, Greece

Morning in Dimitsana
I was enchanted by the mountain village of Dimitsana: the view from my balcony was mesmerising. (iPhone12Pro)

Orthodox church at the Argos crossroads through a bus windscreen, Greece

Scenes from a Bus : Argos Crossroads
Our morning trip takes us through dramatic mountains and attractive villages. (iPhone12Pro)

Yiannis Karonis at the Karonis Distilleries, Nafplio, Greece

The Owner of the Karonis Distillery
Just outside of Nafplio, fifth-generation distiller Yiannis Karonis welcomes us to his property. He introduces us to the process of distilling alcohol from grapes in large copper vats, …

Yiannis Karonis with some dried angelica, Karonis Distilleries, Nafplio, Greece

Dried Angelica
… and shows us some of the fruits, herbs, and spices that go into the making of ouzo, tsipouro (raki), and specialty Greek liqueurs.

Yiannis Karonis in the Karonis Distillery Museum, Nafplio Greece

In the Karonis Distillery Museum
The family-owned Karonis Distillery first opened in 1869 – and has collected some historic memorabilia along the way.

Complex antique safe keys, Karonis Distilleries, Nafplio, Greece

Keys to the Safe
I love these old keys – they have such character!

Bell tower of the Orthodox Church of Panagia, Nafplio, Greece

Bell Tower
After the Venetian Bourtzi Castle Fortress in Nafplio Harbour, my first sighting in the city itself was the bell tower of the Orthodox Church of Panagia. In Medieval and Modern Greek, Panagia is one of the affectionate titles for Mary; this church is devoted to the Presentation of Virgin Mary. The church itself dates the the 15th century, and was significantly changed during the second Venetian occupation (around 1700), the bell tower was added in 1907.

Statue of King Otto, Nafplio

Statue of King Otto
King Otto was a young Bavarian Prince who reigned over the newly-independent Kingdom of Greece from 1832 until he was deposed in 1862. This bronze statue in Nafplio’s Trion Navarchon Square was created by Florinian artist Nikolaos Dogoulis (1937 – 2013).

Palamidi Fortress atop a hill in Nafplio, Greece.

Palamidi Fortress
Built by the Venetians between 1711 and 1714, this baroque fort has commanding views over the Argolic Gulf, the city of Nafplio, and the surrounding countryside. In spite of that, it was captured by the Ottomans in 1715.

Weathered wooden doors, Nafplio, Gree

Old Doorway
Some of the buildings around town are showing their age.

Sculpted bust of an Orthodox Archimandrite, Nafplio, Greece

Archimandrite Christoforos Kokinis
You are never far from a reminder of the Orthodox faith. An archimandrite is the superior of a large monastery or group of monasteries.

Three-story house fronts, Náfplion Greece.

Nafplion Housefronts

Narrow Kokkinou Lane, Nafplio Greece

Pensiones
The cobbled streets and laneways are a delight to wander.

Looking up the Steps on Kokkinou, Nafplio Greece

Kokkinou Steps
It is easy to get your exercise!

Stone Ottoman fountain, Nafplio Greece

Ottoman Fountain
There is a surprise around every corner.

Restaurant tables in a walking street, Nafplio Greece.

Colourful Cloths
The streets are lined with cheerful restaurants, …

Painted stylised Greek horse ornament, Nafplio store, Greece

Stylised Ancient Greek Horse
… clothing boutiques, and arts and craft stores.

Greek coffee pot and cup on a table, Nafplio Greece

Coffee Pot
I stopped in a gorgeous jewellery boutique and bought myself a pair of earrings inscribed with a Greek love poem in elegant calligraphy. Then, it was definitely time for a Greek coffee and some lunch. (iPhone12Pro)

A plate of freshly prepared Greek food, Sokaki Cafe Nafplio, Greece

A Deconstructed Falafel with Bulgur Sokaki (“Back Alley”)
Fresh and delicious! (iPhone12Pro)

Waterfront Musings
The waterfront is serene in the midday sun; Bourtzi Castle floats off on the other side of the harbour. (iPhone12Pro)

Portrait: blond Greek woman, Epidaurus.

Local Guide
Just half an hour later, we were on the other side of the peninsula at Epidaurus to meet our local guide.

Medicinal Scripts and Potions in Ancient Greek
UNESCO touts the Sanctuary of Asklepios at Epidaurus as a testament to the healing cults of the Ancient World and the turning-point in terms of emergence of scientific medicine. The stone tablets recovered around the site are effectively medicinal treatment plans. (iPhone12Pro)

Detail: portions of Greek statues showing the beautifully draped fabric, The Archaeological Museum of Epidaurus, Greece

Draping Fabric in Marble
The Archaeological Museum of Epidaurus is one of the oldest museums of ancient Greek architecture. I was allowed my phone inside, but not my cameras. (iPhone12Pro)

Metal medical tools in a glass case, Sanctuary of Asklepiosat at Epidaurus, Greece

Metal Tools
Originally, the site had major religious importance in the cult of Asclepius. Over time, practitioners began using herbs, cleansing rituals, and other techniques that transformed treatments from divine to more scientific. (iPhone12Pro)

Looking up the Corinth Canal, Greece.

The Corinth Canal
Our last stop on the Peloponnese was at the rather impressive canal that joins the Gulf of Corinth in the Ionian Sea with the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean Sea.

From ouzo to earrings, from mountain villages to coastal cities, from modern boutiques and trendy cafés to ancient healing spas … Talk about variety!

Text: Happy TravelsUntil next time,

Happy Travels!

Photos: 17September2022

Rooftop of the heritage Yass Valley Courthouse over a colourful hedge, NSW Australia

Stop and Smell the Flowers
Yass is a charming heritage town south-west of Sydney on the Hume Highway. I’d driven past or through many times – but had never actually stopped! (iPhone6)

Do you find you tend to ignore your own backyard?

I often do. I’ll go to great lengths and distances to visit places afar, while making little time for sights closer to home.

But, away from the more-populated coast, country New South Wales (like country Queensland) has some attractive old towns, with interesting histories, and main streets lined with old colonial and federation architecture.

Take Yass, for example. First settled by Europeans in 1830, this charming sheep-farming community boasts a number of well-preserved 19th-century heritage buildings. Sitting where it does, 280 km (174 mi) south-west of Sydney on the Hume Highway, it was on our path if ever we drove from Sydney to Melbourne. We’d remark on the signposts – the name amused my children – as we skirted it enroute to Canberra or the Snowy Mountains.

Then, finally, it landed more squarely on my path. We were travelling south from the Hunter Valley and had appointments in Canberra. An overnight stop in Yass made sense.

And when we took our walk in the morning, we were rewarded.

Later that same day, on our way home to the Far South Coast, we stopped for a photo-walk in the equally-historic town of Bungendore on the other side of Canberra. Laid out in a Georgian-influenced grid by colonial government surveyor James Larmer in 1837, this small town on the Kings Highway near Lake George grew after the railway arrived in early 1885.

I’d been through Bungendore many times when taking the alternate route between Sydney and the Snowy Mountains. I loved stopping there for coffee and a visit to the most-excellent Wood Works shop in the centre of town, but had never explored further.

I couldn’t find much information about some of the buildings in town, but we enjoy our unstructured walk-about.

Both towns were a delight and well worth visiting.

Front view of the Yass Valley Courthouse, NSW Australia

Yass Valley Courthouse
Designed by Scotsman James Barnet, who was the serving Colonial Architect for Colonial New South Wales (1862 – 1890), this building opened in 1880, replacing an earlier 1847 structure. (iPhone6)

National Australia Bank building, Yass, NSW Australia.

National Australia Bank
Surveyor and architect John Frederick Hilly designed a number of churches and public buildings in Sydney. This bank building – originally belonging to the Commercial Banking Company of Sydney Limited – was built in 1872. (iPhone6)

Westpac Bank Building, Yass, NSW Australia.

Westpac Bank Building
This beautiful Victorian building, dating to 1886, originally housed the Australian Joint Stock Bank. Bank of New South Wales (Westpac) took the building over in 1931. Today – like so many other rural services – it is permanently closed. (iPhone6)

Old Railway Bridge over the Yass River, NSW Australia.

Reflections of the Old Railway Bridge
Yass was connected to the New South Wales Government Railways’ Main Southern railway line in 1892. This heritage-listed, single span lightweight bridge across the Yass River carried the Yass Town Tramway. It was the first American-style Pratt-truss railway bridge in NSW. Although it closed to regular service in 1988, it is still sound. (iPhone6)

Pink spring blossoms against a clear blue sky, Bungendore, Australia.

Spring Blossoms
It is October, so the fruit trees of Bungendore are in full bloom.

Old house, 24 Gibraltar Street, Bungendore NSW Australia

Bungendore Real Estate Agent
Many of the businesses in town occupy charming old country buildings.

Royal Hotel, 34 Gibraltar Street, Bungendore NSW Australia

Royal Hotel
Originally opened in 1883, the Royal Hotel features the elegant ironwork typical in Australian buildings from the period. It closed in 2020 (some years after this photo was taken) for a complete internal renovation, reopening for business early this year.

Old house, 31 Gibraltar Street, Bungendore NSW Australia

Gibraltar Street

St Philip

Philip’s Anglican Church
One of many churches around town, the old stone building housing St Philip’s was finished in 1865. As far as I can tell, the church has operated continuously since then.

Roofline of the Post Office, 55 Gibraltar Street, Bungendore, Australia

Corrugated Iron and Brick Chimney Pots

Old Post Office building, 55 Gibraltar Street, Bungendore, Australia

Bungendore Post Office
Built in 1882, the post-office complex includes a three-bedroom residence in a separate building from the business.

School of Arts building from behind trees, 57 Gibraltar Street, Bungendore, Australia

A Leafy School of Arts Building (1890)

Stone Gallipoli Memorial, Gibraltar Street, Bungendore, Australia

Gallipoli Memorial
Most Australian towns have a tribute to the soldiers they lost on the Gallipoli Peninsula in WWI (see: In Remembrance of the ANZACs).

An empty lot and an old house, Bungendore NSW Australia

Empty Lots and Old Buildings

St Joseph

St Joseph’s Convent
This impressive double- and triple-brick two-storey building opened in 1891, and often housed Australia’s only beatified Catholic saint, St Mary of the Cross MacKillop. It is now privately owned.

Wild yellow capeweed in bloom, Bungendore, Australia

A Bee in the Capeweed (Arctotheca Calendula)

Iron fence and gate on an old property, Bungendore, Australia

A Gate on the Wild Garden
I can’t help but admire the old ironwork that was a feature of so many properties.

Front view St Mary

St Mary’s Catholic Church
Opened in 1862, this church is still in use.

Inside St Mary

Inside St Mary’s
It was closed, but I had a peep through the window.

Sulphur crested cockatoo in a tall tree, Bungendore, Australia

Sulphur Crested Cockatoo – Cacatua Galerita
These noisy birds are everywhere; they love the seeds in the tall trees.

Wisteria in bloom, Bungendore, Australia

Wisteria
This is another common sight in spring: wisteria was popular with early settlers, and can be seen in hedges everywhere.

Wood and glass shop fronts, Bungendore, Australia

Bungendore Shops
It is time for afternoon tea, so we make our way back to the tourist centre.

Bungendore Wood Works shop front from across the road, NSW Australia

Bungendore Wood Works
This is my absolute favourite spot in town: full of beautiful artworks crafted from fine woods. I often bring overseas visitors here.

The Hannah Cabinet inside the Bungendore Wood Works, NSW Australia

The Hannah Cabinet
This magnificent piece inside the Wood Works was painstakingly crafted by Geoff Hannah over six and a half years. After this photo was taken, the cabinet was acquired by Lismore Regional Gallery, where it was damaged in the devastating floods of 2022 (see: ABC Flood Damaged Artworks).

The Wood Works has lots of smaller pieces, and I usually end up going home with something new – whether for myself or as a gift.

Text: Happy Rambling

They also have a coffee shop – and that’s where we ended up before finishing our drive home.

Until next time!

Pictures: 25October2016