Portrait: Legong Dancer, Pura Dalem, Ubud Indonesia

Legong Dancer
Bali has a rich and unique culture. At one of the temples in Ubud, a Legong dancer welcomes us to an evening performance of abbreviated classical dances.

Bali is a wonderful holiday destination: the people are warm and welcoming, the landscape is varied and amazing, the culture is rich and fascinating, and the food is fresh and fabulous.

I thoroughly enjoyed previous visits to this lovely Indonesian island (see: Bali, Indonesia), but this trip was for a family function, rather than purely for recreation, so much of my time was taken up with logistics, rather than tourism.

Still, a girl’s gotta eat! Half the joy of travel is the flavours – and Bali’s local take on Indonesian cuisine is always a treat.

We also managed to turn one necessary shopping excursion into an excuse to visit Ubud, the cultural heart of the island. 

Ubud had grown since my last visit and was much more crowded than I remembered. But, it is still surrounded by verdant rice terraces and punctuated with ancient temples. As well as being home to every type of tourist shop, and restaurants representing the flavours of the world, it is also Bali’s center for traditional crafts and dance. 

We walked the length of the hilly town, taking time in the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, home to three Hindu temples and over 1200 cheeky long tailed macaques. After yet more food, we enjoyed an evening performance of the tourist-version of classical Legong temple- and palace-dances.

Join me for some food and culture!

Rain over the wing of an airplane, International Departures, Sydney Airport, Australia

On the Tarmac – Sydney Airport
Travel is always made sweeter when the weather you are leaving behind is inclement! (iPhone12Pro)

Chicken sate in a local restaurant, Ungasan Badung, Bali

Chicken Sate
My accommodation had no food on site and seemed a long way from anywhere! (iPhone12Pro)

Cocktail, Karma Kandara Resort, Bali

Table on the Cliff
The silver lining was that I was forced (in spite of the temperature (31°C and humid!) to get out and walk. (iPhone12Pro)

Overhead wires silhouetted against an orange sky, Ungasan Badung, Bali

Electric Sunset
This is the Asia I remember: tangles of overhead wires everywhere! (iPhone12Pro)

Man with a hammer on a roof frame, Ubud, Bali

Carpenter on the Roof
My son calls this the “Spot the OH&S violation!” game. People performing dangerous jobs without any of the protective gear we have come to expect in the West is still a common sight across Asia.

Intricately carved stone gate, Ubud Bali

Balinese Gate
In Bali, gateways are both physical and symbolic barriers, built to protect against wild animals and evil spirits. This one is a Paduraksa, a gate with a roof that serves as an entry to a family compound.

The Goddess Sculpture on the walkway intothe Ubud Monkey Forest, Bali.

Goddess Sculpture on the Walkway
The Ubud Monkey Forest has a whole new entry building since my last visit. From there, we walked across a bridge where Sri Devi holds a paddy to guarantee a fruitful harvest.

Mossy relief carvings on the entry to Durgama, the Ubud Monkey Forest, Ba

Monkey Forest Entry
The journey into the forest continues through a cave called Durgama, named for the Hindu goddess Durga. The relief carvings on the entries depict the process of escorting guests in and out.

Two young macaques on a rooftop, the Ubud Monkey Forest, Bali.

Young Macaques
The crab-eating macaques, also known as Balinese long-tailed monkeys (Macaca fascicularis), in the forest are territorial, and divide themselves into discrete groups. All the animals are well-fed, and the youngsters in this growing population considerably out-number their elders.

Mossy carved stone, the Ubud Monkey Forest, Bali.

Cornerstone Detail

Dwarapala inside the the Ubud Monkey Forest, Bali.

Dwarapala – Temple Guardian
Known in Balinese as a Bedogol, this gate guardian statue stands outside one of the temples inside the Monkey Forest.

Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal inside the Ubud Monkey Forest, Bali.

Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal
The Padangtegal Great Temple of Death is one of three Hindu temples inside the Ubud Monkey Forest.

Mature macaque, the Ubud Monkey Forest, Bali.

Mature Macaque
The animals in the sanctuary are healthy and well-fed – but will still chase and tourists if they suspect they are carrying any food in their bags.

Young macaque on a rooftop, the Ubud Monkey Forest, Bali.

Young Macaque
Three times a day, park staff distribute sweet potato.

Macaque at Ubud Monkey Forest entry, Bali.

Macaque at the Forest Entry

Gado Gado, Warung Bejana Bali

Lunch: Gado Gado (iPhone12Pro)

Lemongrass Chicken, Prasajaby Arang Arang Sate Bar, Ubud Bali

Dinner – Lemongrass Chicken (iPhone12Pro)

Entry to Pura Dalem after dark, Ubud Bali

Temple Entry
After dinner, we make our way into the dark Pura Dalem.

A Goddess at the Pura Dalem after dark, Ubud Bali

Blessings at the Temple Entry

The gamelan band, Pura Dalem, Ubud Bali

The Gamelan Band
At the appointed time, the traditional musicians start playing in what is a predominantly percussive ensemble.

The Condong Dance, Pura Dalem, Ubud Bali

The Condong Dance
Traditionally, Legong dances, which probably originated in the 19th century as a Balinese royal entertainment, were performed by pre-pubescent girls. Today, dancers may be male or females of any age. The dances tell traditional stories and involve elaborate costumes, exaggerated eye movements and facial expressions, and intricate hand and foot positions.

Baris Tungal, Pura Dalem, Ubud Bali

Baris Tunggal
A Baris dance is essentially a war dance, depicting the feelings of a young warrior prior to battle.

Masked dance, Pura Dalem, Ubud Bali

Tari Topeng Punta
By contrast, this masked dancer is a mischievous old man.

Legong dancer, Pura Dalem, Ubud Bali

The Bee and the Flower
Some of the headdresses and hand positions bring to mind Khmer dancers, …

Legong dancer, Pura Dalem, Ubud Bali

The Bee and the Flower
… while the eye movements are similar to those used in some South Indian classical dance styles.

Portrait: Three young Balinese girls in traditional dance costume, Ungasan Bali

Going Home
What is nice to see is the ongoing cultural tradition: I met these young ladies the next day. They were coming out of a local temple where they had just finished dance class in preparation for a festival. (iPhone12Pro)

Portrait: Three young Balinese girls in traditional dance costume, Ungasan Bali

Little Dancers
It didn’t take much encouragement for them to strike a pose! (iPhone12Pro)

Mount Batur from an airplane, Bali Indonesia

Mount Batur
When I left the island a few days later, the clouds surrounded Bali’s active volcano. (iPhone12Pro)

Flying out of Bali, I looked at the volcano rising out of the clouds, and reflected on the joyful but busy week I’d had.

Even when a Bali break is not a holiday, it is an absolute pleasure!

Pictures: 05-12May2024

The stairs in the main hall of Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Those Stairs!
Immediately recognisable, the central staircase in the Main Hall of Dublin’s infamous Kilmainham Gaol has appeared in a number of films, tv shows, and even a U2 music video since the massive prison was decommissioned by the Irish Free State government in 1924.

To me there was something surreal and troubling about watching Hugh Grant singing on the stairs of Kilmainham Gaol in pink-striped bell-bottoms.

It is a disturbing place: dark, cold, and in its day, severely overcrowded. Men, women and children were crammed in together, up to five in a small cell with only a single candle for light and heat. Everyday criminals were incarcerated alongside those who fought for Irish independence – starting with the Irish Rebellion of 1798.

Kilmainham was called the ‘New Gaol’ when it was built in 1796 to replace an even older one. A preserved prison register lists crimes ranging from violent assault to stealing loaves of bread or apples from an orchard. The youngest registered offender was a seven-year-old child; many of the adults were transported to Australia and regular public hangings took place in front of the prison.

In the late 1700s, John Howard (1726 – 1790), whose name is still associated with prison reform and public health improvements, became High Sheriff of Bedfordshire. He was shocked by the squalid conditions and resultant outbreaks of ‘prison fever’ in the jails within his jurisdiction. He educated the public about the barbaric conditions, and, with the aid of his own personal fortune, helped implement changes.

In spite of his efforts, prisoners in Kilmainham continued to be held in terrible conditions. They spent much of their time in the freezing cold, as the chill air was believed to purify a corrupt spirit. The lime walls retained moisture but not heat, and the windy windows in the cells were too high to see through.

During the Great Famine (1845-1852), even a newly-opened women’s section became immediately overwhelmed. Later, the notorious jail became synonymous with the Irish War of Independence (1919–21), with many political prisoners confined in the cells, and fourteen leaders of the Easter Rebellion (1916) executed by firing squad.

Access to the prison is by guided tour only; although my visit was quite some time ago, on a suitably dark and rainy Dublin day, I still remember how emotional our guide was as he talked about The Troubles – and how distressed I felt looking at the cells in which people were kept.

Of course, Paddington 2 is not the only movie filmed on location in what is now a now a museum run by the Office of Public Works – an agency of the Government of Ireland – and its Main Hall is immediately recognisable.

Come for a tour:

Jim Larkin Statue from a bus, O

Jim Larkin
To maximise our time in Dublin, my husband and I had bought two-day Hop on/off bus passes. This gave us a bird’s eye view of some of the city landmarks. This bronze statue by Irish sculptor Oisin Kelly (1915 – 1981) depicts the founder of the Workers’ Union of Ireland, James Larkin (1874 – 1947), addressing the crowd.

River Liffey through bus windows, Dublin

Almost Abstract – River Liffey Through Another Bus

Molly Malone statue from a bus, Dublin

Molly Malone
In Dublin’s Fair City
Where the girls are so pretty
I first set my eyes on sweet Molly Malone
As she wheel’d her wheelbarrow
Through streets broad and narrow
Crying cockles and mussels alive, alive o!

We grew up singing this song about the fictional fishmonger who died of fever around 1699. The first published version of the folk song dates to 1884; the statue by Irish sculptor Jeanne Rynhart (1946 –2020), was created in 1988. Affectionately known as ‘The Tart with the Cart’, the bronze is a popular tourist stop.

People in viking horns on an open tourist bus, Dublin

The Bus Next Door

Arched entrance to the Guinness Brewery Yard, Dublin

Guinness
We drive past the entrance to the Guinness Brewery Yard, where we had stopped for a tour the day before (see: Raise a Glass).

Main Entrance to Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin

Main Entrance to Kilmainham Gaol
A short distance up the road, we come to the prison entrance. Above the doorway, the tangle of serpents, dragons, or demons, is said to represent the five most heinous crimes of rape, murder, theft, piracy, and treason. 

Looking down through the museum displays in Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Museum Displays
In 1958, the Kilmainham Gaol Restoration Society formed to preserve the building and develop a museum and art space.

Giant key, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Outer Door Key: 1807

Locks and keys, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Locks and Keys

Sculpture of a man breaking rocks, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

‘Hard Labour’
An art gallery on the top floor of the museum exhibits paintings, sculptures, and jewellery created by prisoners from around the country.

Portrait of an Irish tour guide, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Dr Shane Kenna
Employed by Ireland’s Office of Public Works, our tour guide was incredibly knowledgeable.

Drainpipe with spikes at the top, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Guarded Drainpipe
Every aspect of the old jail building is inhospitable.

Display page from a Kilmainham Gaol register, Dublin.

Stealing Bread
“Examples of food-related crime …” All the display signage is in English and Irish Gaelic.

Chapel, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Catholic Chapel
In this chapel, Irish revolutionary leader Joseph Mary Plunkett married his fiancee Grace Gifford just hours before he was executed for his role in the 1916 Easter Rising. They were not permitted to speak during the ceremony, and Grace was allowed to spend only ten minutes in her husband’s prison cell under heavy supervision after the wedding.

Dark arched corridor, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Arched Corridor
The hallways in the older sections of the prison are dark – and cold.

Three windows in the cell of Patrick Pearse, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Light the Darkness
These are the window inside the cell of Patrick Pearse – Irish teacher, barrister, poet, writer, nationalist, republican political activist, and revolutionary. A member of the Irish Republican Brotherhood and one of the leaders of the Easter Rising in 1916, Pearse and fifteen other leaders, including his brother, were ultimately court-martialed and executed by firing squad.

Peeling paint, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Stripes of Paint – Texture in the Building

Dark arched corridor, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Another West Wing Corridor
Even as a visitor, this place feels grim! I can’t imagine what it would have been like as an inmate.

The main hall of Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Main Hall
John McCurdy, freemason and official college architect of Trinity College Dublin, won an open competition to design a new section of jail in the late 1850s. In keeping with ‘modern’ Victorian principles, light was meant to inspire the inmates to look heavenward. The open design meant that all ninety-six cells could be seen from a central viewing area.

The stairs in the main hall of Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Through the Steps
Even that magnificent staircase allows views of the room.

James Connolly

Bricks around the Stonebreakers Yard 
The cross marking the execution site of James Connolly for his part in the 1916 Easter Rising is hiding in the afternoon shadows. 

Entry courtyard, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Entry – Exit
It is a relief to re-emerge into the open air from the prison – through the same door we entered by.

A circle of blindfolded sculptured forms, Dublin Ireland.

“Proclamation” by Irish sculptor Rowan Gillespie (1953 – )
Across the road from the prison, we find the permanent outdoor sculpture honoring the leaders of the Easter Rising. The faceless and blindfolded figures each display a bullet pattern corresponding to where they were hit by the firing squad.

text: slainte - good healthGrim representations of troubled times …

We went for a walk to shake off some of the gloom – and found a nice pub for dinner and live music.

That’s Ireland!

Pictures: 08July2012

Looking over Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

White Water at the River Bend
Rearguard Falls are magnificent! This small but beautiful waterfall is one of just two along British Columbia’s longest river. The source of the 1,375 kilometre (854 mi) long Fraser River is just 115 km (71 mi) upstream from here.

I do love a road trip! 

Of course, it can be easier with two people: with the non-driver navigating, map-reading, and watching for interesting stops. I find that I need to do much more preparatory planning ahead of time when I’m travelling solo.

On my last Canadian road trip, I made a point of breaking my drives up with walks. Thanks to the greater availability of free wifi, I made extensive use of the AllTrails App, identifying several potential short walks or a single longer one daily, and setting the starting points as my Google Maps destination before leaving my overnight accommodation.

Of course, if I had access to local advice, I’d make use of that as well.

After spending a couple of nights in Jasper, Alberta (see: A Day in the Maligne Valley), I was heading west. The first leg – to Prince George, British Columbia – was four hours of driving time, allowing me plenty of late-spring daylight for exploration along the way.

An hour into my morning drive, the information centre at Mount Robson came into sight. I was ready for a coffee, and pulled into the parking lot – just ahead of three large tour buses. Unfortunately, the centre had no power: therefore, no lights, no wifi, and no coffee! So, being at the front of the queue didn’t help me much. But at least the restrooms were still operational.

Mount Robson is a impressive peak: the highest point in the Canadian Rockies, with a beautiful, snow-covered south face standing out behind the information centre. I know this from photos, and from previous trips along this road; on this occasion, I could barely see it! The clouds dropped down to obscure the summit, and intermittent rains made the nearby walks very wet and chancy. The Parks staff recommended Rearguard Falls as a nearby walking alternative – just 12 minutes away, but outside the enveloping rains.

It was great advice! The trail barely counts as a walk – only 0.4 km (0.46 mi) return, but the small falls are quite magnificent. One of only two waterfalls on BC’s long and winding Fraser River, they mark the furthest that chinook salmon can swim upstream to spawn in late summer. The viewing platforms attract a lot of visitors from mid August to mid September to watch the tired fish attempt to leap up the rushing water.

I was there in late spring – so no salmon. But, one of the things that amazed me is how different the forest looked and felt around me with every passing kilometre as I descended out of the Rockies.

Do join me for a very short stroll:

Car driving west towards Mount Robson, BC Canada

West on Highway 16
I point the car west out of Jasper, and follow the Yellowhead Pass through the Rocky Mountains. (iPhone12Pro)

Mount Robson Visitor Centre, BC Canada

Mount Robson Visitor Centre
The inside the visitor centre was dark and quiet: they were entering their second day with no power! The top of Mount Robson was shrouded in cloud – which released light rains while I was in the centre.

Narrow, groomed path into the woods, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, BC Canada

Into the Woods
Not 15 minutes down the road, I stopped in the tiny Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, and set off on the short (0.3 km – 0.2 mi) walk to the eponymous falls.

Light through maple leaves, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, BC Canada

Sun through the Maples
Patches of light filter through the tall trees all around me.

Initials carved into a tree trunk, Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Leaving a Mark

Looking over Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Rearguard Falls
You hear the falls before you see them! Viewing platforms allow you to look over the roaring waters. (iPhone12Pro)

Closeup of Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

The Water’s Edge
The speed and force of the water is incredible! Every year in late summer, intrepid chinook salmon swim up the Fraser River to spawn; …

Looking over Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

White Water
… only the largest and strongest of the salmon make it this far – a trip of about 1,260 kilometres (783 mi) from the Pacific Ocean. These falls mark the final barrier for all but the very hardiest.

Closeup of Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Pleats in the Water

Budding spruce with Rearguard Falls behind it, BC Canada

Spruce Against the River
My visit was in spring, so there were no salmon, but there was plenty of new growth in the surrounding trees, …

Pink wild rose blossom, Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Wild Rose – Rosa Acicularis
… and many wildflowers along the path were in bloom. (iPhone12Pro)

Bunchberry dogwood, Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Bunchberry Dogwood – Cornus Canadensis
These pretty little shade-loving ground covers always make me smile.

Red-osier dogwood flower, Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Red-Osier Dogwood – Cornus Sericea
A related – but very different looking – plant, commonly known as red twig dogwood, is a medium-to-tall upright-spreading shrub.

Round dandelion seed head, Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Dandelion in Seed

Patterned leaves, Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Nature’s Artworks – Insect Trails

Looking up a tall cedar trunk, Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Tall and Twisted
The twisted branches of the tall stands of western red cedar (thuja plicata) are draped with old man’s beard (usnea barbata).

Bark of a cedar trunk, Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Natures Artworks – Stripes and Textures
The gold dusting on the textured bark is comprised of gold dust lichens (Chrysothrix), which – like the canary in the mine shaft – are an indicator of excellent air quality.

Light through maple leaves, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, BC Canada

Maples Overhead
Before I know it, I’m back at the carpark.

Text: Take only Pictures

I could have lingered longer, but I had other walks earmarked on my AllTrails – and I still need that coffee!

Until next time,

Happy Walking!

Photos: 31May2023 

Shiva meditating in the Ganges, Rishikesh India

Shiva on the River
This statue of Shiva meditating in the Ganges, in front of the Parmarth Niketan Ashram, is emblematic of Rishikesh. Some stories mistakenly say that the statue was ‘swept away’ in the the truly devastating floods of June 2023. Although the torrential rains caused enormous damage and loss of life all across this region, Shiva did not budge. He sat unperturbed as the force of the rising waters swirled around him. At one stage at least, he was completely submerged – but unharmed.

It was my last day in Rishikesh: that magical city of yogis and mystics on the Ganges at the foothills of the Himalaya.

I’d been there for a week-long yoga ‘retreat’ – a retreat that turned out to be more of a test of patience than a practice of yoga (more on that some other time), and I was determined to get into the heart of the city I had visited only briefly before.

I had met a couple of young lads – one of whom owned and operated a tuk-tuk – and organised for them to transport me to the Ganges for the evening Aarti. Their English was patchy, but their enthusiasm was unmistakable, and I assumed (probably wrongly!) that they would have a level of local knowledge.

Having witnessed the Ganga Aarti, a ritual venerating the Mother Ganges, in Varanasi and Haridwar (eg: Performing the Ganga Aarti at Har Ki Pauri), I thought the evening ritual at Rishikesh – of the most ancient pilgrim places in India, and an abode of the [Hindu] Gods, would be worth observing.

While it was lovely to participate, I could see almost nothing, and came away with very few photos of the Aarti itself.

Still, it was a delightful afternoon, wandering Rishikesh streets and exploring the Hindu sculptures in the gardens of the Parmarth Niketan, the city’s biggest ashram. Do join me!

Gold bangles and trinkets, Rishikesh, India

Selling Gold
The streets running parallel with the Ganges are home to a lot of foot-traffic, and the shops are kept busy.

The colourful curves of Ram Jhula through a metal fence, Rishikesh, India

Ram Jhula
Built in 1986, this iron suspension bridge spans 230 metres (750 feet) across the Ganges, and is a Rishikesh landmark.

Pedestrians on the Ram Jhula, Rishikesh, India

People on the Bridge
The Ram Jhula is always busy with pedestrians.

Candy-coloured temples on the right bank of the Ganges, Rishikesh, India

Candy-Coloured Temples
There are great views of the ashrams on both sides of the river here …

Portrait: Indian woman on the Ram Jhula, Rishikesh, India

Woman on the Bridge
… and many pilgrims are more than happy to be photographed.

Macaque on the Ram Jhula, Rishikesh, India

Macaque on the Bridge
Monkeys roam freely – but don’t seem to be a pest.

Temple near Ram Jhula, Rishikesh, India

Temple on the other Side
People come from all over India – indeed, from all over the world – to visit Rishikesh. The streets are full of pilgrims and tourists, and lined with ashrams and temples.

Portrait: Profile of a man in heavy makeup, Rishikesh, India

The Chotiwala
I was determined to find this restaurant again! Choti is Hindi for a tuft of hair kept at the back of the head and never cut for religious reasons, so a Chotiwala is a ‘Braided Man’. A choti is also a small dosa-like pancake filled with paneer, potato, or onion. In heavy makeup, the Chotiwala sits in front of the restaurant of the same name, greeting people and ringing the bell over his head.

Religious icons in a shop window, Rishikesh, India

Trinket Sales
Religious icons are available everywhere.

Three Indian men in a juice shop, Rishikesh, India

The Juice House
It is hot – very hot. So, my helpers and I stop for a freshly-squeezed juice.

Portrait: Indian man in a juice shop, Rishikesh, India

The Juice Wala

A sculpture of Krishna and Aruna in their chariot over the entry to Parmarth Niketan Ghat, Rishikesh, India

Krishna Chariot
A wonderful sculpture over the entry to Parmarth Niketan Ganga Ghat is based on a story from a Hindu holy book, the Bhagavad Gita, and shows the God Krishna and the demigod Aruna in their chariot. The entry to the ghat   is barred until just before sundown, so we continued to wander.

Young women on a street stall, Rishikesh, India

Market Girls
Back in the secular streets, everyone has something to sell – and everyone has a phone.

Happy people bathing on the ghats in the Ganges, Rishikesh, India

Bathing in the Ganges
Bathing in the Mother River is said to purify you and wash away your sins. Worth a try, right! I only went in up to my knees.

Hindu icons in a window, Parmarth Niketan Ashram, Rishikesh, India

Icons in a Window
Most of the buildings along the river are temples and ashrams, so religious images are everywhere.

Shiva statue meditating in the Ganges, Rishikesh India

The Lord Shiva
Shiva meditating in the rushing waters of the Ganges lends a calm to an otherwise bustling location.

Shiva statue meditating in a garden, Rishikesh India

Shiva in the Garden
We wander through the gardens behind the Ashram, and find another Shiva – …

Detail: the hand of a Shiva sculpture, Rishikesh India

Gyan Mudra
… – this one with slightly different mudras, or hand positions.

Detail: the hand of a Shiva sculpture, Rishikesh India

Mudra in the Garden
Mudras are symbolic gestures or poses in Hinduism, Jainism and Buddhism. They are meant to help focus the mind and direct the flow of prana – life force or energy.

Colourful Shiva and Parvati statues meditating in a garden, Rishikesh India

Shiva and Parvati
We found another Shiva nearby – this one with his consort, Parvati.

Vishnu and his Bull
There are a number of statues dotted around the extensive gardens – many of which my young ‘guides’ were no help in identifying!

Man selling paan, Rishikesh India

Betel Seller
Back in the bustling streets, venders are everywhere.

Betel chew ingredients for sale, Rishikesh India

Areca Nut
Chewing paan – betel nut from the areca palm, mixed with slaked lime and betel leaves, and sometimes tobacco or flavours, is ubiquitous across southern Asia and Oceania.

Seated man with a mobile phone, Rishikesh India

Golden-Hour Check-In

Portrait: Man in heavy pink makeup, Rishikesh, India

The Other Chotiwala
There are two Chotiwala and two Chotiwala Restaurants; on my last visit to the city they were side by side (see: Iconic Rishikesh)! The original restaurant owner died and left the business to his two sons who could not get along. They split the property down the middle and both operated as if they were the only one. One has since relocated – so at least they are no longer next door to each other.

Statue of Hanuman with Rama and Sita, Parmarth Niketan, Rishikesh, India

Statue of Hanuman
We are finally allowed onto the ghat. Hanuman, the monkey god of wisdom, strength, courage, devotion, and self-discipline, shows how he holds Rama and Sita in his heart.

Hindu priest, Parmarth Niketan Ghat, Rishikesh, India

Hindu Priest
As people crowd onto the steps leading to the Ganges, …

Child in white, Parmarth Niketan Ghat, Rishikesh, India

Young Child
… I content myself with people watching.

Hindu priest, Parmarth Niketan Ghat, Rishikesh, India

On the Ghats
There is a lot of milling around …

Crowd on Parmarth Niketan Ghat, Rishikesh, India

Crowd on the Ghat
… and the steps are packed with people. I am one of very few non-Indians in attendance.

Sunset through a metal fence, Rishikesh, India

Sunset
Finally! As the sun goes down, the ritual songs and prayers in praise of Ganga Ma, the Mother River, begin.

Entry to Parmarth Niketan Ghat against a dark sky, Rishikesh, India

Chariot Overhead
The skies darken and the songs continue.

Hands in prayer in the dark, Parmarth Niketan Ghat, Rishikesh, India

Prayers in the Dark
I can see almost nothing – but eventually the flames make their way to me and I am blessed.

Shiva statue meditating in the Ganges after dark, Rishikesh India

Shiva after Dark
With one last look at Shiva, I bid the waterfront good night.

Some reports say that Triveni Ghat, a few kilometers further south, is the most famous ghat in Rishikesh and the place for the evening Aarti.

Ah well!

Maybe next time …

Photos: 08September2023

Statue of Antoine de Saint Exupéry and the Little Prince in the Jardin Royal, Toulouse.

Antoine de Saint Exupéry and the Little Prince
I can’t count how many times I’ve read Le Petit Prince by pilot and author Antoine de Saint Exupéry – in English and in the original French. So, I was thrilled to discover the two honoured in a bronze sculpture by French artist Madeleine Tezenas du Montcel (1936 – ) in the Jardin Royal in Toulouse, France.

My travel choices are often a bit haphazard: as much reliant on timing and opportunity as they are on interest and desire.

I’ve found it doesn’t really matter: wherever I go, there are interesting things to see and learn, and surprising connections to my own life-so-far.

Take Toulouse, in Occitania, in the south of France. Before arriving there, I had no idea it was the fourth-largest city in France, and – more importantly for my husband – the centre of the European aerospace industry and the headquarters of Airbus. I knew from reading Night Flight (Vol de Nuit), that author Antoine de Saint Exupéry was a pioneer of early international postal flights, but I had long since forgotten that he flew between Toulouse and Dakar, in North Africa.

We were not there for those reasons. We were only there because work had brought us to France, and we decided to follow that up with two weeks walking La Randonnée Pyrénéenne – the Cathar Trail through the Pyrenees, finishing up in Foix (see: Il était un Fois à Foix).

Toulouse seemed like an obvious next stop on our way home. I had chosen a modest hotel near the railway station, and we set out to explore with a city-map from the front desk; this was long before I had a smart phone, and before sites like Tripadvisor had been invented!

We found plenty to keep us interested – do join us:

Fountain in the centre of Place Roland, Toulouse France

Place Roland
Small parks and public art are everywhere. A short walk from our hotel, we came across this fountain in the middle of a small triangle of green.

Marble statue of Roland, Place Roland, Toulouse France

“Chanson de Roland”
The marble work by French sculptor Jules Jacques Labatut (1851 – 1925) refers to a long song, telling the story of Roland, a Frankish military leader, and his friend Olivier, in the battles against invading armies: Saracens or Basque – depending on the version you read. I have no idea what the added blindfold signifies.

Detail: Marble statue of Roland, Place Roland, Toulouse France

Roland à Roncevaux
The sculpture has referenced the Battle of Roncevaux Pass in 778 CE; a relatively minor battle under Charlemagne, which has been glorified in the epic 11th-century poem/song (see: AnthroWiki).

Old apartment front on a leafy street, Toulouse France

House Fronts
Even the buildings in the city centre are works-of art: beautiful façades with ornate iron-works lining broad boulevards full of leafy trees.

Lion head on a carved balcony, Toulouse France

Lion on the Balcony

Monument aux Combattants de la Haute-Garonne, Toulouse France

Monument aux Combattants de la Haute-Garonne
Sometimes called “Toulouse’s Arc de Triomphe”, this tribute to the combatants of Haute-Garonne who fought during WWI, was built between 1920 and 1931 under architect Leon Jaussely (see: MIT Libraries).

Bas-relief of soldiers

1918 – Bas-Relief by Camille Raynaud
Three sculptors: Camille Raynaud, Andre Abbal, and Henry Raphael Moncassin, created the bas-reliefs that pay tribute to the soldiers lost in the battles to defend and reclaim the area.

Detail: Monument aux Combattants de la Haute-Garonne, Toulouse France

La Victoire – The Victory by Camille Raynaud

Cast iron sculpture of a snarling dog, Grand Rond, Toulouse France

La Chienne – The Female Dog
A short walk away, in the shady circular Grand Rond park, a cast iron sculpture of a female dog with pups, growls across a path …

Cast iron sculpture of a snarling wolf, Grand Rond, Toulouse France

La Louve – The Female Wolf
…. at a snarling wolf with her cub. French artist, Pierre Louis Rouillard (1820 – 1881), known for his sculptures of animals, installed these in 1865.

Spring flowers, Grand Rond, Toulouse France

Spring Flowers
The park is dotted with bright and colourful garden beds.

Spring flowers, Grand Rond, Toulouse France

A Bee in the Poppies

White poppy, Grand Rond, Toulouse France

White Poppy
Poppies are my favourite! The fragrance on the warm spring air is glorious.

Fountain, Jardin des Plantes, Toulouse France

Fountain – Jardin des Plantes
Across the road, the seven-hectare Jardin des Plantes is home to a stream with ducks, swans, and geese. A lovely fountain sits amid more flowers. (I’ve shared a picture of this fountain before in Les Couleurs de Printemps.)

Spring flowers, Jardin des Plantes, Toulouse France

Flowerbed – Jardin des Plantes
The ancient trees and colourful spring blooms make the park a delightful place to stroll.

Spring flowers, Jardin des Plantes, Toulouse France

Mixed Flowers
Created in 1794, the garden was originally planted with medicinal varieties so that medical students could make their own remedies.

Orange poppy, Jardin des Plantes, Toulouse France

Another Bee in another Poppy.
The garden still displays around one hundred different botanical species – but I keep coming back to my favourite.

Golden Poppies, Jardin des Plantes, Toulouse France

Golden Poppies

Les amoureux éternels statue of lovers, Jardin des Plantes, Toulouse France

Le Retour – Les Amoureux Éternels – The Return – Lovers Eternal
In every corner of the Jardin des Plantes, we find a gem! This marble statue is by Auguste Seysses (1862 – 1946).

Statue of a woman with small children, Jardin Royal, Toulouse, France.

Dedicated to French Composer, Déodat de Séverac, by Auguste Guénot (1882-1966)
Across another road, we find ourselves in the Jardin Royal (Royal Garden), surrounded by more art and flowers.

Small lake and stone features, Jardin Royal , Toulouse France.

Duck House on the Pond – Jardin Royal

Man reading on the grass, Jardin Royal, Toulouse, France.

In the Park
These connecting parks make a wonderful outdoor space in a city where apartments are likely to be quiet small.

Chestnut flowers, Jardin Royal, Toulouse, France.

“The Spreading Chestnut Tree”
The chestnut flowers made me remember the childhood song I used to play on my xylophone!

Memorial plaque to Antoine de Saint Exupéry, Jardin Royal, Toulouse, France.

“Antoine de Saint Exupéry – Writer Pilot”
Exupéry, French writer, poet, journalist, and aviator, is not buried here: in 1944, while flying for the Free French Air Force in North Africa during World War II, he took off from Corsica in a Lockheed P-38 Lightning and never returned. Wreckage of his plane was recovered in 2000, but the cause of the crash remains unknown.

Exupéry statue in a globe, Jardin Royal, Toulouse, France.

Terre des Hommes and Le Petit Prince
Exupéry was always a part of my household: several books in various translations were on the shelves. And then, Canada’s 1968 Expo in Montreal was named Terre des Hommes (Land of Men), after his award-winning book, known in English as Wind, Sand and Stars.

Bridge over the pond, Jardin Royal, Toulouse, France.

Bridge over the Pond
It’s time to backtrack through the Jardin Royal and across to the Jardin des Plantes.

Guitarist in Rasta colours, Jardin Royal, Toulouse, France.

Musician
Smiling music follows us as we go.

Marble bas relief: Le Soir de la Vie, Jardin des Plantes, Toulouse France

Le Soir de la Vie – The Evening of Life
We came across another marble sculpture by Auguste Seysses (1862 – 1946): this time a bas relief which was carved in 1907 and installed as a feature on a fountain here in 1910.

Detail: Monument aux Combattants de 1870, Toulouse, France

Monument aux Combattants de 1870 – Monument to the Fighters of 1870
Toulouse has been the sight of many territorial wars; this monument honours those who fell during the Franco-Prussian War of 1870/71.

Monument aux Combattants de 1870, Toulouse, France

“Aux Enfants De Toulouse … To the Children of Toulouse …”
The monument, sculpted by French artist Théophile Barrau (1848–1913), is dedicated to all the children of La Haute-Garonne who died for their country.

Detail: Monument aux Combattants de 1870, Toulouse, France

Monument de 1908 de la Haute-Garonne
The monument is topped by a bronze representation of the French Republic on her pedestal.

Statue of Joan of Arc, Toulouse, France

Statue of Joan of Arc
No French city is complete without a monument to the national heroine and local Catholic saint; this bronze equestrian statue is by French sculptor and painter Jean Antonin Mercié (1845 –1916).

Something for everyone!

The Little Prince - no text NMI

You – you alone will have the stars as no one else has them… In one of the stars I shall be living. In one of them I shall be laughing. And so it will be as if all the stars were laughing, when you look at the sky at night… You – only you – will have stars that can laugh.

– Antoine de Saint Exupéry, Le Petit Prince

Pictures: 24April2011