Woman at a Temple in Bhaktapur, Nepal

Woman at a Temple
Even though many buildings in the ancient Newari city of Bhaktapur were damaged by the 2015 earthquake, there are people – and there is life – everywhere among the remaining temples and the ruins.

The earthquake in Nepal in April 2015 killed more than 8,800 people in that country, injured nearly three times that many, and left nearly 3.5 million homeless. As a further blow to the national psyche, numerous precious historical religious buildings were damaged or destroyed. Many of these were contributors to the 1979 UNESCO World-Heritage listing of the Kathmandu Valley as a site of significant cultural heritage.

Of course, there have been countless disasters – natural and otherwise – around the world since then.

But, disasters in very poor countries like Nepal often have flow-on effects, with the negative repercussions being felt for decades. When I visited in 2017 – two years after the earthquake – the impact was still obvious and palpable.

I was in Nepal as part of a photographic group with travel photographer Gavin Gough and photojournalist Jack Kurtz. I had already observed the after-effects of the quake in the Kathmandu Valley (e.g: Dirt Music; Light and Dark; A Thousand Steps; Dhulikel to Nagarkot; On the Track) and in Kathmandu itself (e.g: Faith, Faces, and Fakes; Light a Candle), and was spending the morning in Bhaktapur.

Bhaktapur, or Khwopa as it is known in the local Newari language, dates back to the early 8th century. It was the largest of the three Newari kingdoms in the Kathmandu Valley (the other two being Kathmandu and Patan) and was the capital of all of Nepal until the second half of the 15th century. It continued to be its own city-state until the 18th century, and has long been recognised as having a rich heritage of traditional art and architecture, which is demonstrated in what was the best-preserved palace courtyards and old city centre in Nepal.

The magnitude 7.8 earthquake inflicted considerable damage on Bhaktapur’s Durbar Square, a significant heritage site included in the UNESCO World Heritage list: “In Bhaktapur, several monuments, including the Fasi Deva temple, the Chardham temple and the 17th century Vatsala Durga Temple, were fully or partially destroyed.” In all, 116 heritage sites in the city were damaged: 67 of these “completely”, and repairs are slow and costly.

But, life goes on. The handicraft industries – woodcarving, metalwork, stonework, pottery, and weaving – are alive and well, and people go about their lives amid the ruins and repairs. The day I visited, it was Holi, and I have posted a few festival photos previously (see: Happy Holi!).

There is plenty to explore in this site of “Living Heritage”.

Nepali Gurkha Guard outside the Golden Gate, Bhaktapur, Nepal

Nepali Gurkha Army Soldier at the Golden Gate
Only Hindus are allowed into the inner courtyards of the 55 Window Palace. Armed forced from the respected Gurkha regiments stand guard at the torana – the free-standing ornamental or arched gateway.

Entering Durbar Square Bhaktapur through building arches, Nepal

Entering Durbar Square
Archways, colonnades, loose bricks, ruins, shrines, Nepali pilgrims and foreign tourists: Bhaktapur’s Durbar Square is a sensory hodgepodge.

Nepali Gurkha Army Soldier at the Gate, Bhaktapur Nepal

The Golden Gate – The Sun Dhoka
This gilded archway, with the 16-armed goddess Taleju Bhawani over the door, is considered one of the most important artworks in the Kathmandu Valley.

Feet of Theravāda Monks, Bhaktapur, Nepal

Theravāda Monks in Motion
Visitors to Bhaktapur come from all over; …

Theravāda Monks, Bhaktapur, Nepal

Theravāda Monks
… these monks have travelled from Thailand.

Buddhist Nun with a Begging Bowl, Bhaktapur, Nepal

Buddhist Nun with a Begging Bowl

King Bhupatindra Malla Statue against a blue sky, Bhaktapur Nepal

King Bhupatindra Malla Statue
A bronze statue (dated 1699) of King Bhupatindra Malla, king of Bhaktapur from 1696 to 1722, sits high on a pillar in Durbar Square.

King Bhupatindra Malla bronze statue and the Taleju Bell

King Bhupatindra Malla and the Taleju Bell
With his hands in prayer, the king overlooks the Golden Gate and the 55 Window Palace. The rubble remains of the Vatsala Durga Temple – destroyed in the 2015 earthquake, sit behind him.

Restored Chyasilin Mandapa Durbar Square, Bhaktapur Nepal

Restored Chyasilin Mandapa
Nepal is no stranger to earthquakes: this was one of the many buildings destroyed by the 1934 quake. It has been rebuilt over a metal core, incorporating original components.

Female Model in traditional Nepali dress, Bhaktapur

Models in the Ruins of Bhaktapur
While I was wandering, models in traditional dress were taking part in a photoshoot.

Female Models in traditional Nepali dress, Bhaktapu

Models on the Steps of Chyasilin Mandapa
With the permission of their Art Director, I made a few shots myself.

Restored Chyasilin Mandapa Durbar Square, Bhaktapur Nepal

Looking through Chyasilin Mandapa
With the models elsewhere, the stray dogs go back to sleep.

Ruins: Fasidega Temple, Bhaktapur Nepal

Ruins: Fasidega Temple
Two years after the earthquake, recovery work continues. This is one instance where the ruins might be a good thing: the Fasidega Temple, dedicated to Shiva, was a not-particularly attractive white lump!

Elephants, lions and cows: Fasidega Temple, Bhaktapur Nepal

Elephants: Fasidega Temple
Animals: elephants, lions and cows – still stand guard on the remaining six-level plinth.

Nepali woman at a well, Bhaktapur

Woman at the Well
Among the ruins and rebuilding, everyday life goes on.

Hindu wall shrine, Durbar Square Bhaktapur Nepal

Hindu Shrine
Hindu shrines – large and small – are plentiful in Durbar Square and the rest of Bhaktapur.

Life among the Ruins, Bhaktapur Nepal

Life among the Ruins

Pashupatinath Temple, Bhaktapur Nepal

Pashupatinath Temple
Bhaktapur is known for its arts and crafts; shops around the squares and down the alleyways are full of beautiful objects. Artworks also spill into the public spaces.

Nepali girl on a roof, Bhaktapur Nepal

Girl on a Roof

Young Nepali Man on Steps, Bhaktapur Nepal

Man on the Steps

Hindu Icon in front a shop, Bhaktapur Nepal

Hindu Icons
Religious iconography and paraphernalia is for sale at regular intervals.

Dattatreya Temple, Bhaktapur Nepal

Dattatreya Temple
Originally built in 1427 by King Yaksha Malla – supposedly from the timber of a single tree – this temple is dedicated to Dattatreya, who is a mix of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva.

Malla Wrestler, Dattatreya Temple, Bhaktapur Nepal

Malla Wrestler
In front of the Dattatreya Temple, there are two stone statues of popular wrestlers: Jaya Malla and Patta Malla.

Two bells in a Hindu shrine, Bhaktapur Nepal

“Ring the Bell”
Hindu shrines always include bells: the sound of the bell announces your presence to the deities and is believed to clear your mind of thoughts.

People walking in a Bhaktapur Street, Nepal

Bhaktapur Street
The narrow bricked streets are full of life and lined with interesting shops.

Nepali man Polishing Brass, Bhaktapur

Polishing Brass
Craftsmen keep busy between customers.

Traditional marionette hanging in a shopfront, Bhaktapur Nepal

Marionette (iPhone6)

Three Nepali men in their Dhaka Topi Hats, Bhaktapur

Men in their Dhaka Topi Hats
People find spots to sit and chat and watch the world go by.

Shrine in a Courtyard, Bhaktapur Nepal

Bell, Shrine and Loose Bricks in a Courtyard

Buddha in an Alcove, Bhaktapur Nepal

Buddha in an Alcove

Deity in a NicheBuddha in an Alcove

Deity in a Niche

Nepal child in a window, Bhaktapur, Nepal

Child in a Window

Bhaktapur Street Scene, Nepal

Bhaktapur Street Scene

Nepali men and women singing and playing religious music, Bhaktapur

Singing for Shiva
Somehow, it seems appropriate that my last impression of this venerable “living museum”, was of a musical group sitting in an alcove, singing time-honoured songs for Shiva the Destroyer.

Non-Nepali visitors to this ancient Newari city pay an entry-fee; this money helps fund the maintenance and repair of the temples.

Sign-Off-NamasteI hope it also goes some way towards the continued rebuilding of difficult lives.

Namate!

Photos: 12March2017

Stage portrait:Miss Velvet and the Blue Wolf, Bluesfest Byron Bay

Miss Velvet and the Blue Wolf
Hot lights and raspy rock vocals: Miss Velvet has the festival tent in her spell: billed as Janis Joplin mixed with Etta James and Mick Jagger, she brings a high-energy metal edge to Blue Wolf’s psychedelic rock.

I love Bluesfest!

Byron Bay Bluesfest, the annual five-day Easter long-weekend festival of blues and roots music from around the world, always includes a line-up of interesting international visitors. Some are big names that take me back to my youth (see, for example: Bring on the Big Names; The Soundtrack of my YouthMusical Name-Dropping; The Sound of Sunshine); others are more contemporary favourites that I am familiar with thanks to their previous Bluesfest attendances; still others are completely new (to me) discoveries. Often, the performers that stand out most are those I wouldn’t normally seek out on my own: having five-or-more artists performing at any given time across the 120-hectare Tyagarah Tea Tree Farm site allows me to sample the unfamiliar without risk.

This year was no exception: I was looking forward to some big names and old favourites (see, for example: Old Rockers, Punk and Protest), but I also added some new finds to my list. 

Of course, I appreciate the “looking” almost as much as the “listening”. I revel in the trials of shooting moving-objects-at-a-distance-in-low-and unpredictable-light-while-dancing. These shots are mostly taken on my old Canon 6D with a EF70-200 lens (with no Image Stabilisation!) at f 2.8 and ISO 1600 or 3200. That makes for interesting Lightroom processing challenges, but some of the results turned out ok.

Enjoy!

Evening clouds over the tent tops, Bluesfest Byron Bay

Tent Tops
Evening falls over the Bluesfest tents, leaving the sky dull and grey outside; …

California Honeydrops on stage Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

California Honeydrops
… inside the modest Delta Tent, however, the colourful jacket and cheerful sounds of Lech Wierzyński – frontman of the California Honeydrops – have the crowd smiling.

Lech Wierzyński and the California Honeydrops on stage Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Lech Wierzyński
Born in Warsaw, Poland, band leader and front man Lech is an accomplished vocalist …

Lech Wierzyński
… and multi-instrumentalist, with a cheeky smile, and a way with (English) words.

Ben Malament and the California Honeydrops on stage Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Ben Malament on Washboard
The California Honeydrops have come a long way since percussionist Ben Malament and Lech Wierzyński were busking in a Californian subway station.

California Honeydrops on Stage at Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

California Honeydrops on Stage
The tent was packed and bouncing!

Melody Angel in silhouette on stage Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Melody Angel
The lighting can make photography tricky: Melody Angel is colourfully backlit in silhouette as I join her in the Juke Joint tent. 

Melody Angel on stage Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Melody Angel
She is – as I remember her (see: Blues Women Rock) – …

Melody Angel on stage Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Melody Angel
… – fiercely Hendrix, with a mix of Prince and Chuck Berry.

Samantha on stage Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Samantha Fish
This year’s festival introduced me to another kick-ass female guitarist: singer-songwriter guitarist Samantha Fish, who recorded and released her first album in 2009, and has won a raft of awards – for songs and albums, for vocals, and for guitar – since then.

Samantha on stage Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Samantha Fish
Billed as a blues rock/roots rock performer, she embodies rock-chic attitude. The legendary Buddy Guy has recognised her talent on stage.

Samantha on stage Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Samantha Fish
I thoroughly enjoyed her music, and returned the next day for another set.

Elephant Sessions on stage Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Elephant Sessions
From the Highlands of Scotland, Elephant Sessions bring youthful enthusiasm to their modern take on traditional Celtic music; called “neo-trad” or “post-traditional” music, their mix of folk, rock, funk and electronica has won them numerous awards.

Elephant Sessions on stage Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Elephant Sessions
Their sets were well-attended, high-energy, and lively. The lighting created extreme photo-challenges!

Irish Mythen on stage Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Irish Mythen
This is the very definition of “International”: singer-songwriter Irish Mythen hails from County Wexford, Ireland, and is now based in Canada’s tiny Prince Edward Island. I’ve enjoyed her cheeky humour and killer vocals before (see: Blues Women Rock; Blues all over the World; sound clip: Irish Whisky and Pewter).

Irish Mythen on stage Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

“The Auld Triangle”
Irish finishes her set with an a cappella rendition of Brendan Behan’s “Auld Triangle”. I had chills and goosebumps.

"I

“I’m with Her”
Sporting yellow jumpsuits that are apparently a branded American style item, rather than a Ghostbuster costume, the Grammy-award-winning American trio “I’m with Her” is comprised of Sara Watkins, Sarah Jarosz and Aiofe O’Donovan: three successful solo performers in their own rights. They had their name a good 18 months before the Hillary Clinton campaign used the phrase as a slogan.

Ruthie Foster on stage Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Ruthie Foster
Texan blues and folk singer-songwriter Ruthie Foster is the equivalent of musical sunshine! It was impossible not to smile.

Shakey Graves on stage Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Shakey Graves
I could listen to Shakey Graves – another (albeit very different) Texan – all day! Clearly, I am not alone: the massive Crossroad Tent is packed out.

Norah Jones on the Screen, Bluesfest Byron Bay AU

Norah Jones on the Big Screen
It’s only 6:30 in the evening, but the crowd has settled in: the inimitable Norah Jones takes to the keyboard, and her voice wends its way around the packed tent. I had been excited to see/hear her, but truthfully, I was disappointed: a festival is not the ideal setting for her intimate songs. The stage was a long way away, people were crushed in, heads were everywhere – obscuring even the big screens – and the people around me never stopped talking or singing along.

Miss Velvet and the Blue Wolf, Bluesfest Byron Bay

Star Power
Miss Velvet and the Blue Wolf were a joy: metal-edged psychedelic rock with high-energy agro and a heart of gold.

Miss Velvet and the Blue Wolf, Bluesfest Byron Bay

Miss Velvet: Metal Attitude
Her faultless, screaming vocals have been compared with those of Steven Tyler from Aerosmith.

Miss Velvet and the Blue Wolf, Bluesfest Byron Bay

Miss Velvet and the Blue Wolf

Miss Velvet and the Blue Wolf meeting fans, Bluesfest Byron Bay

Miss Velvet and the Blue Wolf in the Signing Tent
The band members were all delightful and charming to their fans at their signing.

I was actually lined up at the signing tent for an act other than Miss Velvet and the Blue Wolf – as much as I enjoyed their live sets, it’s not music I’d play at home except for vacuuming – but members of the band still chatted with me and posed happily.

Text: To the Music

Clearly, like us festival-goers, they are there for the joy of the music.

And that’s what it is all about!

Until next time …

To the Music!

Photos: 18-22April2019

Il Trenino Giallo di Tirano, Italy

Il Trenino Giallo di Tirano
It is easy to explore the delightful Northern Italian town of Tirano using their hop-on hop-off tourist train.

I’ve said it before – and probably more than once: I love Europe!

I love how you can wake up in Switzerland, explore and have lunch in Italy, and be back in Switzerland – and in a different region and city! – in time for dinner.

My husband and I were enjoying a long sight-seeing rail-loop around Switzerland with friends. Part of our trip included the fabulous UNESCO-listed Bernina Express train from Chur, Switzerland to Tirano in Italy (see: Railway Dreaming and Spirals to Tirano).

We had paused our circuit for an overnight stop in Poschiavo (see: Switzerland for Lunch) which meant we arrived in Tirano mid-morning, giving us a couple of hours to explore before rejoining our friends for lunch, and then boarding a bus for the drive to Lugano, Switzerland. Perhaps more commonly, this is where travellers can alight their Swiss Rhaetian Railway trains, transit the Piazzale Stazione (Station Square), and join an Italian State Railway train to Milan.

Only two kilometres from the Swiss border, Tirano is in the Valtellina – an alpine valley in the far north of Lombardy, Italy – and at the crossroads to Val Poschiavo – the valley of Poschiavo in the southern, Italian-speaking part of the Swiss canton of Graubünden. Historically, the Valtellina has been the subject of intense military and diplomatic struggle – especially during the catastrophic Thirty Years’ War – because it allowed access to the passes between Lombardy and the Danube watershed.

Today, the little town boasts relics of its heritage: medieval gates and ancient buildings blend with modern art installations. The centre-piece is the Pilgrimage Church of the Madonna di Tirano, built in the early 1500s on the site of a smaller church. According to the local history, in 1504 the Virgin Mary appeared to a local girl, Mario Omodei, and told her that she would end the plague in Tirano if the town built a shrine dedicated to her. The first stone was laid six months later, and the pestilence ended. The magnificent basilica was built in late Renaissance style, with later ornate Baroque interiors, and is still a major pilgrimage site.

The little yellow hop-on hop-off tourist train made exploring Tirano easy. For €5 each, we could save our feet, listen to commentary (which we promptly forgot!), and get out at various places of interest.

Woman seated on a stone bench, Piazzale Stazione, Tirano Italy

Woman in the Piazzale Stazione
Tirano’s large Railway Square is home to two railway stations: the Swiss Rhaetian Railway (RhB) and the Italian Rete Ferroviaria Italiana (RBI).

Sanctuary of Madonna di Tirano, Italy

Sanctuary of Madonna di Tirano
The centrepiece of the town is the Pilgrimage Church of the Madonna di Tirano.

Church of Santa Perpetua on a Hill, Tirano Italy

Medieval Church of Santa Perpetua
High on a hill overlooking the Sanctuary, a little xenodochium – a medieval hostel or hospital – sits on a rocky outcrop.

Tirano Crest in Piazza Della Basilica, Italy

Tirano Crest in Piazza Della Basilica

Basilica Madonna di Tirano on the Piazza Della Basilica, Italy

Piazza Della Basilica
The Basilica Madonna di Tirano is impressive with its colonnaded dome and lovely eight-level belltower.

Frieze over the door, Sanctuary of Madonna di Tirano, Italy

Frieze over the Sanctuary Portal

Altar in Sanctuary of Madonna di Tirano, Italy

Altar in the Basilica
The very ornate interior of the Sanctuary is decorated in elaborate Baroque style. The high altar is dark: carved in black marble from Varenna by Giobvanni Battista Galli di Clivio in 1748.

Chapel of the Apparition, Santuario della Beata Vergine di Tirano, Italy

Chapel of the Apparition
The statue of the Madonna over the left-hand altar was carved between 1519-24 by Giovanni Antonio del Maino di Pavia. This shrine attracts pilgrims who leave votive candles and prayers.

Organ, Santuario della Beata Vergine di Tirano, Italy

Organ
Lucky is the traveller or pilgrim who hears this fill the church with sound! This magnificent 2,200-pipe organ – one of the biggest in Europe – was carved by Giuseppe Bulgarini between 1608-17.

Looking down the Nave Inside Santuario della Beata Vergine di Tirano, Italy

Looking Down the Nave

Monk and two lay people in the Piazza Della Basilica, Tirano Italy

Monk in the Piazza

Looking across Piazza Della Basilica, Tirano Italy

Piazza Della Basilica
The large piazza outside the Sanctuary is bordered by little shops and large buildings, including the 18th century Palazzetto del Penitenziere, which now houses the Tiranese Ethnographic Museum.

Water Fountain with fresco, Piazza Della Basilica, Tirano Italy

Water Fountain – Piazza Della Basilica
An alcove across from the entrance to the Basilica features a fresco from 1513 depicting the appearance of the Blessed Virgin.

Arch out of the Piazza Della Basilica, Tirano Italy

Arch out of the Piazza Della Basilica
An arch attached to the Palazzetto del Penitenziere leads out of the square on a tiled roadway.

Plant pots on a wall, Via XX Settembre, Tirano Italy

Via XX Settembre
We jumped onto the next train, and crossed the river into the central part of town.

Largo Pretorio, Tirano Italy

Largo Pretorio
There are winding roads and archways everywhere.

Metal sculpture in a frescoed archway, Tirano Italy

Courtyard Spaces
Modern art installations blend seamlessly with ancient frescos.

Porta Poschiavina from over the Addda River, Tirano Italy

Across Adda River
The expanding town has swallowed its old city walls. One of the bridges over the Adda River leads through one of the three remaining gates: the Porta Poschiavina.

Bridge at Porta Poschiavina, Tirano Italy

Bridge at Porta Poschiavina

Sculpture of hexagons, Tirano Italy

Sculpted Space

Man with a red harvester, Tirano Street,Italy

Street Scene

Palazzo Pievani, Tirano Italy

Palazzo Pievani
In the shadow of the surrounding mountains, there are arches and nooks and crannies everywhere, leading into charming cobbled plazas.

Fountain Art, Tirano Italy

Fountain Art
Old fountains have been reclaimed, …

Fountain Art, Tirano Italy

Tiles in the Fountain
… and turned into colourful art.

Archway, Tirano Italy

Archway

Looking Toward Chiesa di San Martino, Tirano Italy

Chiesa di San Martino

Sculptured woman against the sky, Tirano Italy

Sculpture at the Rooftops
A marble woman in a small square seems to float against the mountains.

Reflections in a Tirano window, Italy

Selfie in a Window
I couldn’t resist a shot of the reflections in a barred window …

Il Trenino Giallo di Tirano

Il Trenino Giallo di Tirano
… as we waited for our return train to roll into view.

It was a perfect Italian interlude.

Text: Happy Travels

After lunch, we hopped onto a red Bernina bus, and made our way back to Switzerland – all in time for dinner!

Happy Travels.

Pictures: 07August2014

Papuan girl sitting on the prow of a Boat, Sepik River PNG

Girl on a Boat
Life marches to a different rhythm in the Middle Sepik region of Papua New Guinea. Perhaps it is the heat in the leaden air, but the torpor is palpable under the rising sun.

There are places where you can truly “get away from it all” – away from the trappings of modern life: phone and internet coverage, electricity and running water, roads and basic infrastructure …

Of course, you have to get there; and then, unless you are hardy enough to stay in the wilds forever, you have to get back again!

The Middle Sepik region of Papua New Guinea is a long way from most of what is familiar to me. It is not away from humanity, however: people are scattered around the region in small, familial communities that come together occasionally, by foot or by boat, for trade or for cultural exchange.

And that is why we were there: with a small group of photo-enthusiasts under the guidance of photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours, I had travelled by plane and bus and boat to partake in the Sepik River Festival, a richly rewarding local sing sing of music and dance (see: A Black and White View, In the Little Spirit House, Preparations for the Dance, and Invitation to the Dance).

But, the dancing was over, and I was over-heated – and covered in itchy spots in spite of wearing long sleeves and bug repellent. What you can’t escape in the middle of PNG is the unremitting heat, hanging like a wet blanket and sucking the oxygen out of the air, and the relentless hum of biting pests – including the mosquitos responsible for malaria, Japanese encephalitis, and dengue fever.

Truth be told, as much as we enjoyed our stay in the little village of Kanganaman in the Middle Sepik (see: Welcome to the Spirit House and Crocodile Men), most of us were looking forward to our boutique accommodation in Wewak, with hot showers in the ensuites, cool linen on the beds, and a selection of fresh food and alcoholic drinks in the bar.

It was time to move on! 

Of course, when you are days from “anywhere”, moving on poses its own challenges. Join me for a languid – but not entirely smooth – boat trip down the Sepik River.

Mattresses under mosquito nets, Kanganaman, Middle Sepik PNG

The Girls’ “Dorm”
We are packed and ready! The accommodation for our two-night stay in the village was in a three-room elevated bamboo hut: women on one side, men on the other, with a common-room in the middle. We had a rain-water tank for washing, and a pit toilet a short walk away. The mattresses were clean and comfortable, but, as hot as it was outside, it was even hotter under the mosquito netting … and you had to be careful not to fall through the woven flooring.

Papuan boy in a Dugout canoe, Sepik River PNG

Boy in a Dugout
We have a short walk over grassy “roads” to the riverbank. Our boat has not yet arrived, and the river is quiet; I guess the crocodiles are sleeping. A single boy is on the water in his dugout canoe.

Papuan boy in a Dugout canoe, Sepik River PNG

The Dugout Canoe
It seems we have disturbed the calm; …

Papuan boy in a Dugout canoe, Sepik River PNG

Boy on the River
… the young lad poles his dugout upstream away from us.

Young Papuan Men on the Shore of the Sepik River, PNG

Young Men on the Shore
A number of villagers have joined us on the riverbank as we wait for our transport.

Old Papuan man and two lads on the riverbank, Middle Sepik, PNG

“This T-Shirt is Illegal”
These remote regions of PNG are mostly Animist, but Christian missionaries have been all over the island, so I am not overly surprised to see a T-shirt printed with a gospel message. Then again, it may be a hand-me-down, and the text may not reflect the owner. 

People in and around a large tree, Sepik River PNG

“Hurry up and Wait!”

Papuan boy in a large tree, Sepik River PNG

Boy in a Tree
One of the young lads climbs up to a higher vantage-point.

Smiling Papuan boatman against a blue sky, PNG

Smiling Boatman
Finally! Our two dugout log boats with their noisy outboard motors arrive, and we pile in with our bits and bags and set off downstream.
Unfortunately, our boatman is not smiling for long: our motor coughs, sputters, and dies. We have no phone reception and the walk-talkies don’t seem to be working. We send the other boat (and its passengers) off with the request for a new motor, and continue to limp downstream …

Young Papuan man with a baby, Sepik River

Father and Child
… until we reach a small settlement with a couple of boats tied up at the shore. Where there are boats, there are bound to be motors!
In an irony like something out of the 1999 American war movie Three Kings, Karl has managed to reach a contact in another country using his satellite phone, and has asked that the request for a new motor be relayed downstream.

Papuan Mother and baby, Sepik River PNG

Mother and Child
We are well off the tourist trail here, so we are a bit of a curiosity to the villagers.

Papuan Mother and baby, Sepik River PNG

Mother and Child
The pigmentation mutation that results in blond babies in remote Australia is obviously present here as well.

People on the Shore of the Sepik River, PNG

People on the Shore
Word got back to the little village pretty quickly: before long we had a lot of “helpers” supervising the removal of the faulty motor …

Two Papuan me carrying an outboard motor, Sepik River PNG

A Borrowed Motor
… while the borrowed motor is being brought down to the water.

Young Papuan man, Sepik River, PNG

Young Man

Papuan woman and children washing in the Sepik River, PNG

Woman and Children
While the motors are being swapped, a family is washing in the river.

Woven huts on the Middle Sepik, PNG

Middle Sepik Village
Finally, we are back on the move. The woven houses we pass   along the shore are extremely modest – but quick to build.

Wooden planks over a gap in a dirt road, Papua New Guinea

The Bridge
Eventually, the boat got us back to the meeting point with our bumpy bus. Half way along the dirt track to Wewak, we again come across a missing bridge. The gaps in the planks seem even wider than they did when we passed before! I couldn’t believe the bus would make it.

Papuan woman fanning her foods, Maprik Market PNG

Fanning the Food
We make a brief stop at the Maprik Market that I’ve written about before (see: Market Portraits), …

Grilled Sausages and Plantains, Maprik Market PNG

Sausages and Plantains
… and once again I admire the wild colours of the sausages!

Aerial view over central Papua New Guinea

In Flight
After a hot shower, a good meal, a drink (or two), and a comfortable sleep, we were on a plane to Port Moresby.

In the Holiday Inn in Port Moresby, we could have been anywhere in the world. But, we all knew, when we met for dinner, that we had truly been “away from it all” at the back of beyond – and it had been special!

Here’s hoping that your travels are memorable, even if they are not always smooth!

Until next time, 

Happy Wandering!

Photos: 15August2017

Portrait: Little Steven singing, Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

Little Steven
Some performers continue to bring energy and colour to their stage performances – no matter their age. Little Steven, American musician, songwriter, producer, actor, and original member of Bruce Springsteen’s E Street Band rocked both his Bluesfest sets.

There are those who get cynical when older musicians tour: “Are they broke – are they taking advantage?”; “Can they still sing/play? I heard they are just going through the motions!”. I prefer to be more optimistic, and think that my musical heros continue to tour because they love their music and they love performing.

In an entertainment column: Old rockers never die – they just tour forever, and ever, and ever…, New Zealand writer Grant Smithies examines why so many ageing artists are visiting the Antipodes. He lists the negative impact of downloading and streaming on album sales among the contributors, but also looks at “the baby-boomer nostalgia market.”

That’s me. A nostalgic baby-boomer.

As much as I enjoy dipping into the new musical experiences on offer at festivals, I also love how relaxing it is to lean back into something familiar. Music can take us back to a time and place – I know exactly where I was when I first heard “Alice’s Restaurant” and can describe the room I was in and the people I was with in great detail. And seeing those iconic, beloved performers on stage gives an illusion of connection – it’s like we have a shared history. Add to that my huge admiration for creative people: those who shape our culture rather than merely ride it, and you have a recipe for fandom.

These beloved elders of music have a creative dilemma: the fans want to hear the “old hits”; anything new had better not be too different and unfamiliar, but also had better not be too similar and derivative!

This year’s annual Easter long weekend Byron Bay Bluesfest included some real iconic “old timers” (local Australian and imported American) in it’s extensive line-up. I was thrilled when they played the songs I recognise and love – and did it with zest and passion. They might be older, but they are not diminished.

Come meet a few!

Arlo Guthrie on stage at Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

Arlo Guthrie
I was excited when Arlo Guthrie was listed in the early announcements for this year’s Byron Bay Bluesfest. For me, his name is symbolic of a whole era – a time of hope and protest and promise. 

Arlo Guthrie on stage at Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

Alice’s Restaurant Massacree
Almost hidden under his hat, his between-song story-telling demonstrated that his humour had not been dulled by time. For the benefit of a younger, non-American audience, Arlo included explanatory asides in his classic, 18-minute story-song, the “Alice’s Restaurant Massacree”

Arlo Guthrie on stage at Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

Arlo and Abe Guthrie 
Arlo performed twice at Bluesfest, and I couldn’t resist returning for more stories. Like his father Woody Guthrie – one of the most significant figures in American folk music – Arlo’s songs are mostly protests against social injustice. Music clearly runs in the family: Arlo’s son Abe is on the keyboard in the background. 

Russell Morris on stage at Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

Russell Morris
Once considered a “pop star”, with five Australian Top 10 singles during the 1960s and 1970s, Russell Morris is a story-telling blues-rocker who just keeps getting better with age!

Little Steven and the Disciples of Soulon stage at Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

Little Steven and the Disciples of Soul
One advantage established “old timers” have is performance and production experience: they often have extensive backing-bands.

Backup Singers for Little Steven Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

Backup Singers
The 15-piece ensemble travelling with Little Steven included three matching backing singers in bell-bottoms, long fringes, and over-sized wigs.

Little Steven and the Disciples of Soulon stage at Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

Little Steven
While his vocals may not have subtlety, there is no denying his energy or enthusiasm.

Little Steven and the Disciples of Soulon stage at Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

Little Steven and the Disciples of Soul
Little Steven is one of those multi-talented people who clearly perform because they want to, not because they have to! Among other things, he runs a multi-disciplinary classroom program, bringing popular music and music history to schools. I remembered his face from his run as strip-club owner Silvio Dante in the Sopranos.

The Black Sorrows on stage at Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

The Black Sorrows
Classic Australian blues-rock band The Black Sorrows always makes me think of that movie: The Commitments. The difference, of course, is that founder: singer-songwriter and multi-instrumentalist, Joseph Vincent Camilleri, is a working musician with a number of on-going projects.

The Black Sorrows on stage at Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

Joe Camilleri, Claude Carranza, and Mark Gray
These are musicians who clearly love what they do – and their joy is infectious.

Iggy Pop in the Crossroads Tent, Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

Crossroads Tent
The “Godfather of Punk” still draw a crowd: my iPhone can’t even find Iggy Pop up there on the stage!

Iggy Pop on stage at Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

Iggy Pop
Long known for his bare-chested stage antics, Iggy has impacted garage rock, punk rock, hard rock, art rock, new wave, jazz, blues, and electronic music.

Iggy Pop on stage at Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

Iggy Pop
Bluesfest is family-friendly, so there were no overly-outlandish theatrics, but Iggy has lost none of his energy: he and his blond locks were all over the stage.

Tommy Emmanuel, on stage at Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

Tommy Emmanuel
This was the one I was waiting for! A classical, jazz, and country guitarist known for his complex fingerstyle technique, this gifted and charismatic Australian has been working as a professional musician since the age of six.

Tommy Emmanuel, on stage at Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

“Best Acoustic Guitarist” – Guitar Player Magazine (2010)
Tommy Emmanuel is one of only four fingerstyle guitarists to whom Chet Atkins awarded the title of “Certified Guitar Player”. Tommy is also a Member of the Order of Australia (AM).

Tommy Emmanuel on stage at Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

One-Man Band
Emmanuel uses his guitars like a one-man-band kit, wearing them out with his dynamic percussive techniques – including the use of a snare-drum brush. He is impossible to resist: I tapped and nodded and smiled the whole performance through.

Keb

Keb’ Mo’
Old-fashioned country blues singer-songwriter-instrumentalist Keb’ Mo’ is the very definition of smooth. Heavily influenced by another one of my favourites (who didn’t make Bluesfest this year), Taj Mahal, four-time Grammy-Award winner Keb’ always makes me smile.

The Backsliders on stage at Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

The Backsliders
One of my favourite local blues bands, The Backsliders have impeccable credentials: guitarist, vocalist and award-winning songwriter Dom Turner has a number of albums and live musical projects dating back to forever… Drummer Rob Hirst was a founding member of Midnight Oil, amongst other things. They are always great fun to listen to and to watch.

Paul Kelly on stage at Bluesfest Byron Bay Australia

Paul Kelly
Another stalwart of the Australian music landscape, Paul Kelly always draws a crowd. Although considered a “rock music singer-songwriter, guitarist, and harmonica player”, his countless albums cross musical boundaries, and he has also been influential in helping younger musicians find their feet.

These musicians are all at least as old as I am, and their songs – even the new ones – have a comfortable familiarity. As Grant Smithies observes: “We care because this music meant something to us when we were younger; their songs make us forget our own rapid journey towards the grave and plug us back into more carefree times.”

Text: Let

Perhaps the British singer Lemmy Kilmister said it best: “If you think you are too old to rock ‘n roll, then you are.”

And, if you don’t think you are too old, keep rocking!

Till next time,

Let’s dance!

Photos: 18-22April2019