.jpg) Miss Velvet and the Blue Wolf
Hot lights and raspy rock vocals: Miss Velvet has the festival tent in her spell: billed as Janis Joplin mixed with Etta James and Mick Jagger, she brings a high-energy metal edge to Blue Wolf’s psychedelic rock. I love Bluesfest!
Byron Bay Bluesfest, the annual five-day Easter long-weekend festival of blues and roots music from around the world, always includes a line-up of interesting international visitors. Some are big names that take me back to my youth (see, for example: Bring on the Big Names; The Soundtrack of my Youth; Musical Name-Dropping; The Sound of Sunshine); others are more contemporary favourites that I am familiar with thanks to their previous Bluesfest attendances; still others are completely new (to me) discoveries. Often, the performers that stand out most are those I wouldn’t normally seek out on my own: having five-or-more artists performing at any given time across the 120-hectare Tyagarah Tea Tree Farm site allows me to sample the unfamiliar without risk.
This year was no exception: I was looking forward to some big names and old favourites (see, for example: Old Rockers, Punk and Protest), but I also added some new finds to my list.
Of course, I appreciate the “looking” almost as much as the “listening”. I revel in the trials of shooting moving-objects-at-a-distance-in-low-and unpredictable-light-while-dancing. These shots are mostly taken on my old Canon 6D with a EF70-200 lens (with no Image Stabilisation!) at f 2.8 and ISO 1600 or 3200. That makes for interesting Lightroom processing challenges, but some of the results turned out ok.
Enjoy!
.jpg) Tent Tops
Evening falls over the Bluesfest tents, leaving the sky dull and grey outside; … .jpg) California Honeydrops
… inside the modest Delta Tent, however, the colourful jacket and cheerful sounds of Lech Wierzyński – frontman of the California Honeydrops – have the crowd smiling.  Lech Wierzyński
Born in Warsaw, Poland, band leader and front man Lech is an accomplished vocalist … Lech Wierzyński
… and multi-instrumentalist, with a cheeky smile, and a way with (English) words. Ben Malament on Washboard
The California Honeydrops have come a long way since percussionist Ben Malament and Lech Wierzyński were busking in a Californian subway station. California Honeydrops on Stage
The tent was packed and bouncing! Melody Angel
The lighting can make photography tricky: Melody Angel is colourfully backlit in silhouette as I join her in the Juke Joint tent. Melody Angel
… – fiercely Hendrix, with a mix of Prince and Chuck Berry. Samantha Fish
This year’s festival introduced me to another kick-ass female guitarist: singer-songwriter guitarist Samantha Fish, who recorded and released her first album in 2009, and has won a raft of awards – for songs and albums, for vocals, and for guitar – since then. Samantha Fish
Billed as a blues rock/roots rock performer, she embodies rock-chic attitude. The legendary Buddy Guy has recognised her talent on stage. Samantha Fish
I thoroughly enjoyed her music, and returned the next day for another set. Elephant Sessions
From the Highlands of Scotland, Elephant Sessions bring youthful enthusiasm to their modern take on traditional Celtic music; called “neo-trad” or “post-traditional” music, their mix of folk, rock, funk and electronica has won them numerous awards. Elephant Sessions
Their sets were well-attended, high-energy, and lively. The lighting created extreme photo-challenges! “The Auld Triangle”
Irish finishes her set with an a cappella rendition of Brendan Behan’s “Auld Triangle”. I had chills and goosebumps. “I’m with Her”
Sporting yellow jumpsuits that are apparently a branded American style item, rather than a Ghostbuster costume, the Grammy-award-winning American trio “I’m with Her” is comprised of Sara Watkins, Sarah Jarosz and Aiofe O’Donovan: three successful solo performers in their own rights. They had their name a good 18 months before the Hillary Clinton campaign used the phrase as a slogan. Ruthie Foster
Texan blues and folk singer-songwriter Ruthie Foster is the equivalent of musical sunshine! It was impossible not to smile. Shakey Graves
I could listen to Shakey Graves – another (albeit very different) Texan – all day! Clearly, I am not alone: the massive Crossroad Tent is packed out. Norah Jones on the Big Screen
It’s only 6:30 in the evening, but the crowd has settled in: the inimitable Norah Jones takes to the keyboard, and her voice wends its way around the packed tent. I had been excited to see/hear her, but truthfully, I was disappointed: a festival is not the ideal setting for her intimate songs. The stage was a long way away, people were crushed in, heads were everywhere – obscuring even the big screens – and the people around me never stopped talking or singing along. Miss Velvet: Metal Attitude
Her faultless, screaming vocals have been compared with those of Steven Tyler from Aerosmith. Miss Velvet and the Blue Wolf Miss Velvet and the Blue Wolf in the Signing Tent
The band members were all delightful and charming to their fans at their signing. I was actually lined up at the signing tent for an act other than Miss Velvet and the Blue Wolf – as much as I enjoyed their live sets, it’s not music I’d play at home except for vacuuming – but members of the band still chatted with me and posed happily.
Clearly, like us festival-goers, they are there for the joy of the music.
And that’s what it is all about!
Until next time …
To the Music!
Photos: 18-22April2019
Posted in environmental portraits,Music,musicians,performersTags: Australia,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,music,musicians,people,performance,performers,Photo Blog,portrait,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Il Trenino Giallo di Tirano
It is easy to explore the delightful Northern Italian town of Tirano using their hop-on hop-off tourist train. I’ve said it before – and probably more than once: I love Europe!
I love how you can wake up in Switzerland, explore and have lunch in Italy, and be back in Switzerland – and in a different region and city! – in time for dinner.
My husband and I were enjoying a long sight-seeing rail-loop around Switzerland with friends. Part of our trip included the fabulous UNESCO-listed Bernina Express train from Chur, Switzerland to Tirano in Italy (see: Railway Dreaming and Spirals to Tirano).
We had paused our circuit for an overnight stop in Poschiavo (see: Switzerland for Lunch) which meant we arrived in Tirano mid-morning, giving us a couple of hours to explore before rejoining our friends for lunch, and then boarding a bus for the drive to Lugano, Switzerland. Perhaps more commonly, this is where travellers can alight their Swiss Rhaetian Railway trains, transit the Piazzale Stazione (Station Square), and join an Italian State Railway train to Milan.
Only two kilometres from the Swiss border, Tirano is in the Valtellina – an alpine valley in the far north of Lombardy, Italy – and at the crossroads to Val Poschiavo – the valley of Poschiavo in the southern, Italian-speaking part of the Swiss canton of Graubünden. Historically, the Valtellina has been the subject of intense military and diplomatic struggle – especially during the catastrophic Thirty Years’ War – because it allowed access to the passes between Lombardy and the Danube watershed.
Today, the little town boasts relics of its heritage: medieval gates and ancient buildings blend with modern art installations. The centre-piece is the Pilgrimage Church of the Madonna di Tirano, built in the early 1500s on the site of a smaller church. According to the local history, in 1504 the Virgin Mary appeared to a local girl, Mario Omodei, and told her that she would end the plague in Tirano if the town built a shrine dedicated to her. The first stone was laid six months later, and the pestilence ended. The magnificent basilica was built in late Renaissance style, with later ornate Baroque interiors, and is still a major pilgrimage site.
The little yellow hop-on hop-off tourist train made exploring Tirano easy. For €5 each, we could save our feet, listen to commentary (which we promptly forgot!), and get out at various places of interest.
Woman in the Piazzale Stazione
Tirano’s large Railway Square is home to two railway stations: the Swiss Rhaetian Railway (RhB) and the Italian Rete Ferroviaria Italiana (RBI). Sanctuary of Madonna di Tirano
The centrepiece of the town is the Pilgrimage Church of the Madonna di Tirano. Medieval Church of Santa Perpetua
High on a hill overlooking the Sanctuary, a little xenodochium – a medieval hostel or hospital – sits on a rocky outcrop. Tirano Crest in Piazza Della Basilica Piazza Della Basilica
The Basilica Madonna di Tirano is impressive with its colonnaded dome and lovely eight-level belltower. Frieze over the Sanctuary Portal Altar in the Basilica
The very ornate interior of the Sanctuary is decorated in elaborate Baroque style. The high altar is dark: carved in black marble from Varenna by Giobvanni Battista Galli di Clivio in 1748. Chapel of the Apparition
The statue of the Madonna over the left-hand altar was carved between 1519-24 by Giovanni Antonio del Maino di Pavia. This shrine attracts pilgrims who leave votive candles and prayers. Organ
Lucky is the traveller or pilgrim who hears this fill the church with sound! This magnificent 2,200-pipe organ – one of the biggest in Europe – was carved by Giuseppe Bulgarini between 1608-17. Looking Down the Nave Monk in the Piazza Piazza Della Basilica
The large piazza outside the Sanctuary is bordered by little shops and large buildings, including the 18th century Palazzetto del Penitenziere, which now houses the Tiranese Ethnographic Museum. Water Fountain – Piazza Della Basilica
An alcove across from the entrance to the Basilica features a fresco from 1513 depicting the appearance of the Blessed Virgin. Arch out of the Piazza Della Basilica
An arch attached to the Palazzetto del Penitenziere leads out of the square on a tiled roadway. Via XX Settembre
We jumped onto the next train, and crossed the river into the central part of town. Largo Pretorio
There are winding roads and archways everywhere. Courtyard Spaces
Modern art installations blend seamlessly with ancient frescos. Across Adda River
The expanding town has swallowed its old city walls. One of the bridges over the Adda River leads through one of the three remaining gates: the Porta Poschiavina. Bridge at Porta Poschiavina Sculpted Space Street Scene Palazzo Pievani
In the shadow of the surrounding mountains, there are arches and nooks and crannies everywhere, leading into charming cobbled plazas. Fountain Art
Old fountains have been reclaimed, … Tiles in the Fountain
… and turned into colourful art. Archway Chiesa di San Martino Sculpture at the Rooftops
A marble woman in a small square seems to float against the mountains. Selfie in a Window
I couldn’t resist a shot of the reflections in a barred window … Il Trenino Giallo di Tirano
… as we waited for our return train to roll into view. It was a perfect Italian interlude.
After lunch, we hopped onto a red Bernina bus, and made our way back to Switzerland – all in time for dinner!
Happy Travels.
Pictures: 07August2014
Posted in Architecture,Italy,TravelTags: architecture,Catholicism,church,Italy,Photo Blog,religion,sculpture,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,worship
Girl on a Boat
Life marches to a different rhythm in the Middle Sepik region of Papua New Guinea. Perhaps it is the heat in the leaden air, but the torpor is palpable under the rising sun. There are places where you can truly “get away from it all” – away from the trappings of modern life: phone and internet coverage, electricity and running water, roads and basic infrastructure …
Of course, you have to get there; and then, unless you are hardy enough to stay in the wilds forever, you have to get back again!
The Middle Sepik region of Papua New Guinea is a long way from most of what is familiar to me. It is not away from humanity, however: people are scattered around the region in small, familial communities that come together occasionally, by foot or by boat, for trade or for cultural exchange.
And that is why we were there: with a small group of photo-enthusiasts under the guidance of photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours, I had travelled by plane and bus and boat to partake in the Sepik River Festival, a richly rewarding local sing sing of music and dance (see: A Black and White View, In the Little Spirit House, Preparations for the Dance, and Invitation to the Dance).
But, the dancing was over, and I was over-heated – and covered in itchy spots in spite of wearing long sleeves and bug repellent. What you can’t escape in the middle of PNG is the unremitting heat, hanging like a wet blanket and sucking the oxygen out of the air, and the relentless hum of biting pests – including the mosquitos responsible for malaria, Japanese encephalitis, and dengue fever.
Truth be told, as much as we enjoyed our stay in the little village of Kanganaman in the Middle Sepik (see: Welcome to the Spirit House and Crocodile Men), most of us were looking forward to our boutique accommodation in Wewak, with hot showers in the ensuites, cool linen on the beds, and a selection of fresh food and alcoholic drinks in the bar.
It was time to move on!
Of course, when you are days from “anywhere”, moving on poses its own challenges. Join me for a languid – but not entirely smooth – boat trip down the Sepik River.
The Girls’ “Dorm”
We are packed and ready! The accommodation for our two-night stay in the village was in a three-room elevated bamboo hut: women on one side, men on the other, with a common-room in the middle. We had a rain-water tank for washing, and a pit toilet a short walk away. The mattresses were clean and comfortable, but, as hot as it was outside, it was even hotter under the mosquito netting … and you had to be careful not to fall through the woven flooring. Boy in a Dugout
We have a short walk over grassy “roads” to the riverbank. Our boat has not yet arrived, and the river is quiet; I guess the crocodiles are sleeping. A single boy is on the water in his dugout canoe. The Dugout Canoe
It seems we have disturbed the calm; … Boy on the River
… the young lad poles his dugout upstream away from us. Young Men on the Shore
A number of villagers have joined us on the riverbank as we wait for our transport. “This T-Shirt is Illegal”
These remote regions of PNG are mostly Animist, but Christian missionaries have been all over the island, so I am not overly surprised to see a T-shirt printed with a gospel message. Then again, it may be a hand-me-down, and the text may not reflect the owner. “Hurry up and Wait!” Boy in a Tree
One of the young lads climbs up to a higher vantage-point. Smiling Boatman
Finally! Our two dugout log boats with their noisy outboard motors arrive, and we pile in with our bits and bags and set off downstream.
Unfortunately, our boatman is not smiling for long: our motor coughs, sputters, and dies. We have no phone reception and the walk-talkies don’t seem to be working. We send the other boat (and its passengers) off with the request for a new motor, and continue to limp downstream … Father and Child
… until we reach a small settlement with a couple of boats tied up at the shore. Where there are boats, there are bound to be motors!
In an irony like something out of the 1999 American war movie Three Kings, Karl has managed to reach a contact in another country using his satellite phone, and has asked that the request for a new motor be relayed downstream. Mother and Child
We are well off the tourist trail here, so we are a bit of a curiosity to the villagers. Mother and Child
The pigmentation mutation that results in blond babies in remote Australia is obviously present here as well. People on the Shore
Word got back to the little village pretty quickly: before long we had a lot of “helpers” supervising the removal of the faulty motor … A Borrowed Motor
… while the borrowed motor is being brought down to the water. Young Man Woman and Children
While the motors are being swapped, a family is washing in the river. Middle Sepik Village
Finally, we are back on the move. The woven houses we pass along the shore are extremely modest – but quick to build. The Bridge
Eventually, the boat got us back to the meeting point with our bumpy bus. Half way along the dirt track to Wewak, we again come across a missing bridge. The gaps in the planks seem even wider than they did when we passed before! I couldn’t believe the bus would make it. Fanning the Food
We make a brief stop at the Maprik Market that I’ve written about before (see: Market Portraits), … Sausages and Plantains
… and once again I admire the wild colours of the sausages! In Flight
After a hot shower, a good meal, a drink (or two), and a comfortable sleep, we were on a plane to Port Moresby. In the Holiday Inn in Port Moresby, we could have been anywhere in the world. But, we all knew, when we met for dinner, that we had truly been “away from it all” at the back of beyond – and it had been special!
Here’s hoping that your travels are memorable, even if they are not always smooth!
Until next time,
Happy Wandering!
Photos: 15August2017
Posted in environmental portrait,Papua New Guinea,TravelTags: boats,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,Midddle Sepik,Papua New Guinea,Photo Blog,Sepik River,transportation,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Little Steven
Some performers continue to bring energy and colour to their stage performances – no matter their age. Little Steven, American musician, songwriter, producer, actor, and original member of Bruce Springsteen’s E Street Band rocked both his Bluesfest sets. There are those who get cynical when older musicians tour: “Are they broke – are they taking advantage?”; “Can they still sing/play? I heard they are just going through the motions!”. I prefer to be more optimistic, and think that my musical heros continue to tour because they love their music and they love performing.
In an entertainment column: Old rockers never die – they just tour forever, and ever, and ever…, New Zealand writer Grant Smithies examines why so many ageing artists are visiting the Antipodes. He lists the negative impact of downloading and streaming on album sales among the contributors, but also looks at “the baby-boomer nostalgia market.”
That’s me. A nostalgic baby-boomer.
As much as I enjoy dipping into the new musical experiences on offer at festivals, I also love how relaxing it is to lean back into something familiar. Music can take us back to a time and place – I know exactly where I was when I first heard “Alice’s Restaurant” and can describe the room I was in and the people I was with in great detail. And seeing those iconic, beloved performers on stage gives an illusion of connection – it’s like we have a shared history. Add to that my huge admiration for creative people: those who shape our culture rather than merely ride it, and you have a recipe for fandom.
These beloved elders of music have a creative dilemma: the fans want to hear the “old hits”; anything new had better not be too different and unfamiliar, but also had better not be too similar and derivative!
This year’s annual Easter long weekend Byron Bay Bluesfest included some real iconic “old timers” (local Australian and imported American) in it’s extensive line-up. I was thrilled when they played the songs I recognise and love – and did it with zest and passion. They might be older, but they are not diminished.
Come meet a few!
Arlo Guthrie
I was excited when Arlo Guthrie was listed in the early announcements for this year’s Byron Bay Bluesfest. For me, his name is symbolic of a whole era – a time of hope and protest and promise. Alice’s Restaurant Massacree
Almost hidden under his hat, his between-song story-telling demonstrated that his humour had not been dulled by time. For the benefit of a younger, non-American audience, Arlo included explanatory asides in his classic, 18-minute story-song, the “Alice’s Restaurant Massacree”. Arlo and Abe Guthrie
Arlo performed twice at Bluesfest, and I couldn’t resist returning for more stories. Like his father Woody Guthrie – one of the most significant figures in American folk music – Arlo’s songs are mostly protests against social injustice. Music clearly runs in the family: Arlo’s son Abe is on the keyboard in the background. Russell Morris
Once considered a “pop star”, with five Australian Top 10 singles during the 1960s and 1970s, Russell Morris is a story-telling blues-rocker who just keeps getting better with age! Little Steven and the Disciples of Soul
One advantage established “old timers” have is performance and production experience: they often have extensive backing-bands. Backup Singers
The 15-piece ensemble travelling with Little Steven included three matching backing singers in bell-bottoms, long fringes, and over-sized wigs. Little Steven
While his vocals may not have subtlety, there is no denying his energy or enthusiasm. Little Steven and the Disciples of Soul
Little Steven is one of those multi-talented people who clearly perform because they want to, not because they have to! Among other things, he runs a multi-disciplinary classroom program, bringing popular music and music history to schools. I remembered his face from his run as strip-club owner Silvio Dante in the Sopranos. The Black Sorrows
Classic Australian blues-rock band The Black Sorrows always makes me think of that movie: The Commitments. The difference, of course, is that founder: singer-songwriter and multi-instrumentalist, Joseph Vincent Camilleri, is a working musician with a number of on-going projects. Joe Camilleri, Claude Carranza, and Mark Gray
These are musicians who clearly love what they do – and their joy is infectious. Crossroads Tent
The “Godfather of Punk” still draw a crowd: my iPhone can’t even find Iggy Pop up there on the stage! Iggy Pop
Long known for his bare-chested stage antics, Iggy has impacted garage rock, punk rock, hard rock, art rock, new wave, jazz, blues, and electronic music. Iggy Pop
Bluesfest is family-friendly, so there were no overly-outlandish theatrics, but Iggy has lost none of his energy: he and his blond locks were all over the stage. Tommy Emmanuel
This was the one I was waiting for! A classical, jazz, and country guitarist known for his complex fingerstyle technique, this gifted and charismatic Australian has been working as a professional musician since the age of six. “Best Acoustic Guitarist” – Guitar Player Magazine (2010)
Tommy Emmanuel is one of only four fingerstyle guitarists to whom Chet Atkins awarded the title of “Certified Guitar Player”. Tommy is also a Member of the Order of Australia (AM). One-Man Band
Emmanuel uses his guitars like a one-man-band kit, wearing them out with his dynamic percussive techniques – including the use of a snare-drum brush. He is impossible to resist: I tapped and nodded and smiled the whole performance through. Keb’ Mo’
Old-fashioned country blues singer-songwriter-instrumentalist Keb’ Mo’ is the very definition of smooth. Heavily influenced by another one of my favourites (who didn’t make Bluesfest this year), Taj Mahal, four-time Grammy-Award winner Keb’ always makes me smile. The Backsliders
One of my favourite local blues bands, The Backsliders have impeccable credentials: guitarist, vocalist and award-winning songwriter Dom Turner has a number of albums and live musical projects dating back to forever… Drummer Rob Hirst was a founding member of Midnight Oil, amongst other things. They are always great fun to listen to and to watch. Paul Kelly
Another stalwart of the Australian music landscape, Paul Kelly always draws a crowd. Although considered a “rock music singer-songwriter, guitarist, and harmonica player”, his countless albums cross musical boundaries, and he has also been influential in helping younger musicians find their feet. These musicians are all at least as old as I am, and their songs – even the new ones – have a comfortable familiarity. As Grant Smithies observes: “We care because this music meant something to us when we were younger; their songs make us forget our own rapid journey towards the grave and plug us back into more carefree times.”
Perhaps the British singer Lemmy Kilmister said it best: “If you think you are too old to rock ‘n roll, then you are.”
And, if you don’t think you are too old, keep rocking!
Till next time,
Let’s dance!
Photos: 18-22April2019
Posted in Australia,Music,PerformanceTags: Australia,Bluesfest Byron Bay,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,low light,music,musicians,performance,performers,Photo Blog,Ursula Wall
Monkey Chorus in Uluwatu
It’s an extraordinary scene: as the light falls over the cliffs of Uluwatu and over the visitors from all around the world, we listen to the sound of the rising wind and the amazing a cappella clicks and rhythmic chanting of the central “monkey-chorus”. The unique Balinese Kecak performance of the Ramayana story has begun! Bali is real a treat for the visitor: the landscape is beautiful and harmonious, the food and coffee are delicious, and the people are friendly and welcoming.
And, in spite of the number of tourists that stream into this tiny Indonesian vacation paradise, somehow the people of Bali have managed to preserve and cultivate their distinctive version of Hindu traditions.
Dance and drama are integral to guarding the traditional cultural stories and developing modern artistic expressions firmly rooted in the past: “In Bali, dance and drama are interchangeable: age-old dance-drama stories are depicted through precise, stylised movements: movements that include defined body-shape and placement; finger, hand and arm gestures; and the quick, bird-like motions of the neck, head and eyes. The makeup and costuming are as much a part of the ancient traditions as the dances themselves.”
We had enjoyed a number of different Balinese dances (see: Legong and other Balinese Dances) during our stays on the island, but somehow had missed out on what is reputedly the “best known” Balinese dance: the Kecak – pronounced “kechak”. Like many Hindu and Buddhist art forms, the story is taken from part of the Ramayana, the holy book about seventh avatar of the god Vishnu, Lord Ram or Rama. The segment of the Ramayana featured in the Kecak Dance is the kidnapping of Rama’s beloved wife Sita by the demon-king Ravana, and the efforts of Rama and his brother Lakshmana to retrieve her. This is where Lord Hanuman, the monkey god, enters the story, and helps in the rescue.
Unlike other Balinese dances, the Kecak does not use a gamelan-orchestral accompaniment. It is named for the “chat-a-chak-a-chak” sing-song made by the chanting men in the chorus. This relatively modern format (developed in the 1930s) is built on the age-old Balinese Sanghyang traditions of sacred trance dances which are only performed as part of religious ceremonies.
Uluwatu Temple, one of Bali’s principal Hindu sea temples (Pura Segara), is possibly the most iconic place to enjoy the Kecak Dance. Named for it’s location, the Pura (temple) Luhur (sublime) sits at the Ulu (edge) of a 70-meter-high (230 ft) Watu (cliff or rock). It is also renowned for its magnificent sunsets.
We weren’t favoured with much of a sunset, but at least we weren’t drenched by the rains we’d experienced at Tanah Lot, the other popular Western sea temple, which we had visited the week before (see: Chasing the Sunset).
Grab a sarong – modest dress is required in all Balinese temples – and join me for a Kecak dance performance.
Old Woman at the Coffee Shop
We’d had a long drive, and a morning on the waters around Nusa Dua (more on that some other time), so I was in need of a rich, Balinese coffee before we went into the temple grounds. The shop-owner’s mother was gracious enough to pose for me. Gnarled Tree in the Courtyard
The temple grounds are tidy, dotted with shrines, and shaded by ancient trees. Visitors to Uluwatu
The grounds of the cliff-side temple overlook the Indian Ocean. To the Temple
The views, the cliffs, … On the Edge (Ulu) of the Cliff (Watu)
… and the walkway stretch out in both directions. Puru (Temple) on the Edge (Ulu)
The tiny tiered temple is dwarfed by the seventy-metre cliff and the endless, rolling seas and skies. Macaque on the Banister
The walkways are the domain of the monkeys, who have learned to steal anything they can get their hands on: phones, eye-glasses, hats, wallets. They might – if you are lucky – be persuaded to return your valuables in exchange for food. Macaque on the Steps
Temple attendants have been unable to stamp out this thievery; new monkeys introduced to the area learn the behaviour very quickly, and so it continues. One snatched a small coin purse that was attached to my camera bag – a weak chain is no match for a naughty monkey! Pura Uluwatu
As we walk down the path (holding onto our hats and glasses), we get a better view of the temple itself. Temple Gardens
The light is falling as we make our way towards the dance arena, … Tourists in the Temple Grounds
… alongside visitors in “borrowed” sarongs. Lighting the Fires
As the audience file in and find seats in the bleachers, a Hindu priest makes offerings and lights the lamp flames. Introducing the Program
A woman introduces the program. From where we are seated, we can’t understand a word she says, but we have a printed handout, so hopefully we’ll have a sense of what is going on. The Monkey Chorus
The monkey-chorus, making continual rhythmic percussive vocal sounds, form a tight circle around the flaming lamp. Their longyi are fashioned from the ubiquitous black-and-white checked poleng cloth which symbolises the balance of the universe. The attached short video clip I took with my phone is not great quality, but it shows Rama and Sita entering, and gives a taste of the remarkable sounds the Monkey Chorus makes. Just click the link!
The Golden Deer
Rama is seen hunting a golden deer that he and Sita came across in the forest. Unfortunately, the golden deer is really the shape-shifting demon-king Ravana, who covets Sita; Rama disappears, and the trouble begins! Garuda
The story gets rather convoluted: Sita has sent Rama’s brother Laksamana in search of Rama; she is left alone in the forest, where Ravana, the mythical multi-headed demon-king who we last saw in the shape of the golden deer, tries to kidnap her; he then disguises himself as an old man and tries again. Her cries for help are heard by the Garuda, who fights for her, but his wings are injured, and Ravana wins. Hanuman
Meanwhile, Rama and his brother Laksamana have reunited, and when they meet Hanuman, the monkey commander of the monkey army, they enlist his aid in rescuing Sita. Trijata
We’ve seated ourselves high up in the bleachers, in the hope of a sunset over the cliffs. Each time we blink, the monkey chorus changes formation and there are new characters on set! Trijata is the niece of the demon-king Ravana. Hanuman Returns
The sky darkens – without any of the colour we had hoped for – and Hanuman returns to help rescue Sita. He poses for the cameras of the work-group who are travelling together on a team-building holiday. Giant of Alengka Pura
Of course, nothing goes smoothly! The servants of Alengka Pura (???) enlist giants to punish Hanuman; … Hanuman Captured
… they try to burn him, but he – naturally – escapes and punishes them. Rama and Sita Reunited
Rama and Sita are reunited, and live happily… until the next chapter… The Ramayana epic poem in its entirety is some 24,000 verses long, with parts of the text dating back to the 7th century BCE. It is an allegory of Hindu teachings, and as such, underpins culture and art throughout India, Nepal, Sri Lanka and much of South-east Asia. I’ve seen segments presented through cartoon, dance, shadow-puppets and marionettes; the stories are everywhere.
This is a unique presentation of a much-told tale.
Even with the ever-present wind and the threat of rain, the backdrop was magnificent, and the slow-moving, elegant Balinese dance style against the trance-inducing “chat-a-chak-a-chak” of the monkey chorus was mesmerising.
We left bewitched.
Pictures: 04February2017
Posted in Bali,Culture,TravelTags: Bali,dance,hindu,hinduism,Indonesia,Kecak,performance,Photo Blog,religion,Religious Practice,temple,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
« Older posts
Newer posts »
|
[…] Easter long-weekend Byron Bay Bluesfest that I’ve broken my posts into sections (see: Spotlight on International Performers; Old Rockers, Punk and Protest) – and, there were many, many more I didn’t see. […]
[…] much as I love the opportunity to enjoy performers from around the world (e.g.: Spotlight on International Performers; and Dancing in the Dark), especially those I have loved since my youth (see: Old Rockers, Punk and […]