Pura Taman Saraswati in the lily ponds, Ubu Bali

Pura Taman Saraswati
It’s a calming scene: from our seats in Café Lotus in Ubud, we look across the lotus ponds to the beautiful water temple at the end of the path. Everywhere you go in Bali, there is a beautiful balance between the arts (including architecture) and the natural environment.

It’s easy to fall in love with Bali.

The beaches are beautiful, the food is wonderful, the people are friendly, and the culture is unique and richly rewarding.

This little Indonesian island was doubly blessed: firstly, with abundantly productive fields, and secondly, with people who were cooperative, rather than overly competitive, and who therefore shared the products of those fields. The relatively equitable division of food and labour has allowed people time to develop and expand their religious and cultural traditions, and to express these through art, carving, music and dance. Creativity and artistic expressions are nurtured and valued: the evidence of this is in the buildings; in the artworks in the museums and the markets; in the dance and storytelling; in the ritual religious expressions; and even in the fabrics of the the clothing.

Everything on the island is stamped with distinctive Balinese style.

Fallen Frangipani blossom on a sandy path, Sanur, Bali

Fallen Frangipani
Nothing says “Tropical Paradise” to me quite like a sweet-smelling fallen frangipani (plumeria) blossom on a sandy walkway! (iPhone6)

Empty deck chairs, Sanur Beach, Bali

Chairs in the Sun – Sanur Beach
Bali has a reputation as a party paradise for young adults, and has long been a centre for night life and clubbing – but it is easy enough to avoid the noise and crowds! (iPhone6)

Sunrise over the shrimp boats, Sanur Beach Bali

Sanur Sunrise
The sunrises and sunsets can be spectacular, but Bali is only eight degrees south of the equator, so you have to be quick! (See: Chasing Sunset) (iPhone6)

Cement temple pieces in an open-air factory, Bali

Temple Pieces
The ornate curlicues on temples and houses start somewhere, as we discover when we are bicycling through the Balinese countryside (see: A Ride through the Rice Fields).

Balinese woman chipping bits off cement cornice-work, Indonesia

Chipping off the Rough Bits
Even though the cement pieces are cast in forms, there is a lot of labour in tidying them up …

Balinese woman sanding cement cornice-work, Indonesia

Sanding
… and sanding them smooth.

Balinese toddler amongst cement cornice work.

Baby in the Brickyard
Making cement pieces is a family business – and youngsters are expected to fit in.

Stone figurine in a water fountain, Ubud Bali

Water Feature
Evidence of intricate concrete- and stone-work is everywhere; …

Concrete Ganesh in a water fountain, Ubud Bali

Ganesh in the Garden
… both these water-fountain sculptures are in the gardens of our Ubud guesthouse.

 Bull and Griffin, front landing, Neka Museum, Bali

Bull and Griffin
Artistic expression is part of Bali’s lifeblood. The Neka Art Museum in Ubud typifies the island’s devotion to the arts: this collection of paintings and sculptures was started by Ubud native, collector and art dealer, Suteja Neka

Art and Windows, Neka Museum, Bali

Art Museum Windows
The interior spaces are as beautiful …

Building in the Neka Museum grounds, Ubud

Neka Art Museum
… as the buildings and grounds.

Painting: Mutual Attraction by Abdul Aziz

Mutual Attraction by Abdul Aziz
… to contemporary.

Painting: Offering to the Rice Goddess, Neka Museum, Bali

Offering to the Rice Goddess
The collected works range from traditional …

Lotus Pond - Museum Puri Lukisan, Ubud Bali

Lotus Pond – Museum Puri Lukisan
Bali’s oldest art museum is set among lotus ponds …

Museum Puri Lukisan, Ubud Bali

Museum Puri Lukisan
… and terraced gardens.

Wooden Woman by Ida Bagus Nyana, Museum Puri Lukisan, Ubud Bali

Wooden Woman
The extensive collection in the multiple buildings that comprise the Museum Puri Lukisan cross all periods. My favourites were the works by Ida Bagus Nyana (1912–1985).

Balinese Woodcarver in a shop, Ubud

Woodcarver
Meanwhile, in Mas Village – not far from Ubud – there are woodcarvers hard at work producing art, religious iconography, and trinkets for tourists.

Balinese Woodcarvers in a shop, Mas Village

Woodcarvers
It’s exacting work. Not all of the products are to my taste, but enough of them are, so that walking into an atelier like this is risky: I always leave with at least one new carving, It’s gratifying when the Australian Quarantine Inspectors cast their eagle-eyes over my purchases, and pronounce: “That’s a nice piece!”

Carved Wooden Torsos in a shop, Ubud Bali

Wooden Torsos
The artisans of Mas Village are renowned for the quality and aesthetics of their carvings. (iPhone6)

Batuan Temple Entry in the Rain, Bali

Batuan Temple Entry in the Rain
In another artisan village, Batuan – known for its painting style – the local temple is itself, a work of art.

Candi Bentar Batuan Temple in the Rain, Bali

Candi Bentar – Batuan Temple
A classical candi bentar, or split gateway, leads into the 11th century temple.

Pavilion in the rain, Batuan Temple Bali

Bale – Pavilion
The shrines of Batuan Temple are neatly laid out in the 0.65Ha (1.6 Acre) complex.

Visitors with umbrellas, Batuan Temple Bali

Braving the Rains
Even in the rain, there are plenty of visitors admiring the well-preserved sandstone structures.

Shrines in the Jeroan, Batuan Temple Bali

Shrines in the Jeroan (Inner Courtyard)

Balinese woman at a spinning wheel, Bali

Spinning Wheel
Another area of creative endeavour is textile production; …

Balinese woman at a weaving frame, Bali

Woman Weaving
… much of it using traditional methods.

Balinese woman painting fabric with gold, Bali

Painting Prada
Dating back to the East Javanese kingdom of Majapahit, prada or perada is the ancient technique of decorating cloth with gold dust or gold leaf mixed into a glue paste. Today, the paste is more likely to be made with gold paint – but it is still a time-consuming process.

Balinese man measuring lengths of batik fabric.

Measuring Lengths
Batik here also traces its roots back to Java, but many of the local designs are immediately recognisable as Balinese.

These works are all so lovingly and painstakingly produced, it is no wonder Bali attracts artists from around the world to collaborate and deepen their own creative processes.

Sign-Off-Happy-ShoppingIt’s also no surprise that I always leave the country with a suitcase full of carved wood and printed fabrics.

It’s one way of taking a little of that Balinese style home!

 

Photos: 21January-04February2017

Portrait: Young Hamar woman in beads and ochre, Ethiopia

Young Hamar Woman
With their ochre-coated hair and unique customs, the small population of Hamar people are probably one of the best-known Omotic tribes.

You could call them Ethiopia’s 0.1%.

That is the approximate proportion that the Hamar (or Hamer) people, an agro-pastoralist tribe in the Omo Valley, make up of Ethiopia’s total.

Most of these Hamer-speaking people still live a traditional, semi-nomadic lifestyle on their fertile tribal lands in the Southern Nations, Nationalities, and Peoples Region (SNNPR) of the country. Care of cattle, agricultural practices, and cultural ceremonies continue much as they have for generations. According to one report I read, only seven members of the tribe have ever finished secondary school. The women and girls grow crops – with a focus on the staple of sorghum – and care for the households, meals (mostly maize or sorghum porridge), and children. Older children take care of the goats. Young men tend the crops and protect the cattle – with AK47s! Older men also look after the cattle and the crops, as well as plowing the fields and looking after the beehives nested in the acacia trees.

A tall, good-looking people, the Hamar are possibly the most recognisable of the Omotic tribes. Men, women, and children generally sport multiple strands of colourful beads. The men often wear a clay cap, decorated with feathers. Like other groups in the region, they can be seen carrying or using their small wooden stools/pillows. Women have elaborately decorated goatskin bibs, which – these days – are reserved for special occasions. They layer themselves in beaded belts, bracelets and necklaces, as well as wearing copper or metal necklaces that signify their marital status (e.g.: first wife, second wife, etc.). Most strikingly, they coat their hair in a clay and butter mixture – reminiscent of the Himba people of distant Namibia (e.g.: The Morning Routine).

The Hamar practice scarification, much of which can be quite beautiful. What is alarming is the significations of some of these scars: men wear rows of pala or “hero scars” which relate directly to the number of tribal enemies they have personally killed. In addition to decorative scars, women proudly display ragged wounds on their backs, which they have received from a ritual (and distressing to most outsiders – including me) whipping that takes place as part of men’s ‘cattle jumping’ ceremony. This is a unique coming-of-age-initiation practice – which I’ll talk more about when I get to those pictures. (see: Coming of Age in a Hamar Village). 

I visited the Hamar on a number of occasions as part of a small-group Piper Mackay Photo-Tour to the Omo Valley led by photographer Ben McRae. The attached environmental portraits are from our first trip to a large village not far from our rooms in the market town of Turmi.

Do join me!

Women doing laundry in the river, Stephanie Wildlife Sanctuary, Ethiopia

Laundry in the River
It’s a long drive from our starting accommodation in Arba Minch to the Hamar tribal lands. We stop en route to watch as people go about their daily lives.

Men with a donkey cart, Stephanie Wildlife Sanctuary, Ethiopia

Donkey Cart
The river is the source of drinking water for the villages around here, so re-usable plastic containers are a valuable resource. 

Child in Braids, Stephanie Wildlife Sanctuary, Ethiopia

Child in Braids
Everywhere we stopped, children would surround us, clamouring for our empty (and full!) drink bottles.

Two Hamar men in silhouette in a dusty road, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Men on the Horizon
Finally! We reach the Hamar village that our guide has negotiated for us to enter. The men carry their Kalashnikovs as they watch the boundaries and the livestock. Power lines run across the landscape, but it is not clear where they stop… I saw little evidence of the use of electricity, although there must be a charging station somewhere for the ubiquitous mobile phones.

Portrait: Young Hamar Girl in a blanket, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Young Hamar Girl
These people have the most extraordinary faces! This young girl, with her clay-coated hair and worn blanket, had such expressive eyes.

Portrait: Young Hamar Girl in a blanket, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Hamar Girl
She patiently counted the ‘clicks’ of my camera as I took pictures of her against the thorn thickets and dry scrub that extend off towards the distant mountains. This is “pay-per-photo” tourism: Ethiopian tribal groups learned long ago that their traditional appearance is their key to a modern livelihood.

Portrait: Hamar Woman in a heavy necklace, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Hamar Woman
Such regal bearing! This beautiful woman clearly has an important place in the village, as demonstrated by her heavy metal necklaces. The top one is a burkule or binyere. Made of leather and metal with a large cylindrical detail on the front, the burkule indicates she is her husband’s “first wife”.

Portrait: Hamar Couple, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Hamar Couple
The colourfully woven fabric supporting this man’s cap vie for attention with his wife’s layers of bright beads.

Portrait: Hamar child in beads, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Hamar Child
Even young children are draped in layers of beads, interspersed with shells and coins.

Hamar huts corralled by a rough fence, Omo Vally Ethiopia

Hamar Corral
The compounds housing extended family are simple structures.

Portrait: Hamar Woman in a shell necklace, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Shell Necklaces
Cowry shells were used as currency across much of Africa until the mid 19th century. As cowry are a sea snail, these valuable shells have probably been purchased at the Turmi market. In Hamar culture, they symbolise womanhood, fertility, birth and wealth.

Portrait: Seated Hamar Woman, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Seated Hamar Woman
This beautiful older woman is wearing her traditional goatskin smock. She is seated on the ground, …

Portrait: Hamar Man in a Hat, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Hamar Man in a Hat
… unlike an elderly male close by …

Hamar Man on a Stool, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Hamar Man on a Stool
… who – like all Hamar males – has his wooden stool to sit on.

Portrait: Hamar Man in a Hat, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Man in a Hat
These men! When they are not wearing traditional clay caps, they are rocking jazz hats! 

Portrait: Hamar Mother and Child, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Mother, Child and Attitude

The scarred back of a young Hamar mother, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Mother’s Scarred Back
… while a young mother looks after her infant.

A teen Hamar girl with her young sibling, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Hamar Girls
A teen girl looks after her younger sibling, …

Portrait: Young Hamar Woman, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Young Hamar Woman

Hamar scarified belly and beaded belt with a key, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

The Belly and The Belt
I love the contrasts: the tribal belt and scarification against the the modern key!

Portrait: Smiling Hamar man in Western dress, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Hamar Man
In the traditional communities I’ve visited, men are more likely to be in Western dress. This may be because they wander away from the home village more often than the women. 

Two young Hamar women in their traditional goatskin smocks, Omg Valley Ethiopia

Goatskin Smocks
A pair of friends show off their traditional goatskin smocks – heavily beaded and adorned with shells.

Portrait: Two young Hamar women, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Young Friends
Although these women have similar hairstyles, only one has used the ochre, making for quite a different appearance.

Portrait: Hamar Woman with a direct gaze, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Hamar Attitude
I love that strong, direct gaze! These striking looking women are used to being ‘looked at!’

Text: Happy TravelsWe’ll return to these tribal villages again.

Until then,

Happy Travels!

Photos: 16October2018

Colourful "Conch Tour Train" on a Key West street, Florida USA

Conch Tour Train
Key West is a pretty, pedestrian-friendly city of neatly-painted weatherboard houses and leafy streets.

Key West: the land of tropical breezes, fruit cocktails, legendary sunsets and dreams; the home of famous writers, artists, naturalists and presidents; the island city just 144 kilometres (90 miles) north of Cuba, and the southern-most point in the continental United States.

Mile 0!

We made it! My husband and I hadn’t driven the whole US 1 Overseas Highway, which runs 3,813 km (2,369 miles) north-south along the East Coast of the United States. We had actually travelled further: zig-zagging diagonally about 8000 km (4970 miles) from Seattle, Washington in the northwest corner of the country. So, eating key lime pie on a veranda in the city centre: Old Town, overlooking Duval Street, felt like a real accomplishment!

Key West is a compact walking town. We had parked on the outskirts and taken a shuttle into the centre. The Audubon House and the Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum were on my ‘must see’ list; the Harry S. Truman Little White House was on my husband’s. So, fortified with pie and armed with a guide map, we just wandered.

Seven Mile Bridge from a car windshield and rearview mirror, Florida Keys USA

Driving the Bridges
Key West is the southernmost island in the Florida Keys. Highway US1 is as much bridge as it is road as it stretches the 190 kilometres (120 miles) from the bulk of Florida, and across countless tropical islands to the tip of the archipelago.
In this picture, on the stretch between Bahia Honda Key and West Summerland Key, the derelict Bahia Honda Railroad Bridge sits in the waters of the Atlantic Ocean(iPhone4S)

"Conch Fritters" food outlet, Key West Florida, USA

“Conch Fritters”
Key West owes much to the Bahamian immigrants – referred to as “conchs”, possibly because of their love of shellfish – who have been in the Florida Keys since the 1700s. Originating from a traditional Bahamian recipe, conch fritters are now a famously popular Key West delicacy.

The 65Ft Lookout Tower, Key West Florida, USA

The 65 Foot Lookout Tower
This lookout, belonging to The Shipwreck Treasure Museum, is modelled on the observation towers that ‘wreckers’ once used to watch for ships in trouble on the reefs along the coast. They would then race out into the waters to claim lucrative salvage rights.

"Time for Fun", a statue of a dancing couple by Seward Johnson, Key West Florida USA

“Time for Fun”
A number of large, trompe l’oeil painted bronze statues by part-time Key West resident Seward Johnson are installed in front of the Custom House, Key West’s Art and History Museum. This six metre (20 foot) depiction of an old fashioned dancing couple was inspired by Auguste Renoir’s painting “Dance in the Country.”

"The Fisherman" a bronze cast statue of Hemingway, Key West Florida USA

“The Fisherman”
Also in front of the Custom House is a life-sized bronze cast statue of Ernest Hemingway as a fisherman.

Chicken on the grass, Key West Florida USA

Chicken in the Road
You know you are not in a big city when the chickens wander freely next to the roads!

Audubon House, Key West Florida USA

Audubon House
White weatherboard with airy verandahs and shuttered windows: the family home built by Captain John Huling Geiger in the 1840s is typical of Key West housing.

Mounted Audubon illustration of an American Coot, Audubon House, Key West Florida USA

American Coot
The noted American ornithologist, naturalist, and painter John James Audubon (1785 – 1851) stayed here in 1832, and the house, which is open to the public, now bears his name. The restored mansion features many of Audubon’s beautiful and detailed illustrations of American birds.

Painting of Harry S Truman, Little White House, Key West Florida USA

Truman’s Little White House
The restored Harry S. Truman Little White House, built in 1890, is also open for guided tours. American Presidents, from Howard Taft to Bill Clinton, are among the notables and dignitaries that have used the residence for meetings and working holidays. President Harry S. Truman spent 175 days of his presidency installed here.

Museum guide, Little White House, Key West Florida USA

Guide Marta – Little White House
The house has seen many historic moments, as the guide explains.

Framed drawings of American Presidents with famous quotes, Little White House, Key West Florida USA

In the Words of the Presidents
Naturally, the gift shop focusses on presidential memorabilia and famous quotes.

Close-up: Pink Frangipani blossom and Spanish Moss, Key West Florida USA

Pink Frangipani and Spanish Moss
The gardens everywhere are lush and beautiful.

Close-up: Pink Frangipani blossom and fern leaves, Key West Florida USA

Frangipani and Ferns
One of my favourite plants, the wonderfully scented frangipani (known as plumeria in this part of the world) is native to the tropics of Florida and Central- and South America.

White house at 58 Front Street, seen from Emma Street, Key West Florida USA

58 Front Street from Emma Street
The houses are set close together, but they all have an airy, spacious feel.

Cluster of Orange Fruit on a palm, Key West Florida USA

Orange Palm Fruit

Flowering royal poinciana trees and the Six Toed Cat Cafe, Key West

Six Toed Cat Cafe
Next door to the Hemingway House, the roof of the charming and well-rated Six Toed Cat Cafe is almost covered in “flame tree” flowers. The royal poinciana (Delonix regia) is the city of Key West’s official tree.

Six Toed Cat in the Hemingway House, Key West Florida USA

Six Toed Cat in the Hemingway House
Ernest Hemingway was, among other things, a cat lover. In the 1930s, a sea captain gave Hemingway a white polydactyl (many-toed) kitten named Snow White. Polydactyly in many creatures (including humans) is inherited from a dominant gene. Sailors preferred polydactyl cats because they were thought to be good luck, and it is claimed they are better mousers and have better balance on rough seas.

Six Toed Cat in the Hemingway House, Key West Florida USA

Hemingway’s Six Toed Cat
Hemingway bought his 1851-built Spanish Colonial house in 1931 and lived here until 1940. It is now a museum, and a home for the 40-50 descendants of his cats – about half of whom have extra digits, and all of whom carry the polydactyl gene.

Dated flagstones for deceased cats, the Hemingway House, Key West Florida USA

Cat’s Headstones
Hemingway named all his cats after famous people – and that tradition has been carried on. Flagstones in the garden mark the deceased.

Hemingway

Hemingway’s Carriage House
Hemingway converted the free-standing carriage house into his writing studio, and connected it to the master bedroom in the main house with a second story walkway.

Inside Hemingway

Writer’s Studio
The walkway no longer exists, but the studio has been maintained. He wrote some of his best work here, including A Farewell to Arms, Death in the Afternoon, and For Whom the Bell Tolls, before moving to Cuba with his third wife in 1940.

American pelican sculpture in a window reflecting a Key West street, Audubon House, Florida USA

Audubon Layers
Key West leaves the visitor with a kaleidoscope of impressions.

I could have stayed for days – but accommodation in Key West is prohibitively expensive, so we had opted to overnight on the less pricy Marathon Key. That way we could still afford a mahi-mahi dinner and a sunset cocktail.

Sadly, we found the car, pointed it north, and left the delightful Key West behind.

With Jimmy Buffett music on the PA system as we drank our fruity drinks and watched the tropical sunset, we could pretend we were back there…

Cheers!

Photographs: 04June2013

Bangkok Skyline: Wat Sam Pleum and Bangkok River Park Condominium, Thailand

Bangkok’s Chinatown Skyline
Bangkok is a city of contrasts: here, October rain clouds sit over the relatively modern (1994) 36-floor Bangkok River Park Condominium and the ornate red and gold of the ancient Ayutthaya-period Wat Sam Pleum.

Bangkok is one of those incredible places where – no matter how much time you have spent there – there is something wild and unexpected around the corner.

After years of living in this amazing city, and more years of visiting, I feel pretty comfortable in my own little corner, but I haven’t really even scratched the surface of the rest of this sprawling metropolis. 

On my last stay in the city, I got lazy: rather than try to find something new and different on my own, I put the call out for friends who wanted to do a “photowalk” somewhere interesting. I got lucky – another former-resident was passing through, and we met up for lunch and a wander into the always-photogenic Chinatown, better known locally as Yaowarat (see: A Day in the Life). Our aim was to find Wat Chakkrawadrajawas Woramahavihara, which neither of us had visited before. Although the temple is known for its excellent examples of classic Thai Buddhist Temple architecture, it is probably more famous (infamous?) for its nickname: “Crocodile Temple” and the crocodiles that are kept on the grounds in cemented pens.

Wat Chakkrawadrajawas Woramahavihara (วัดจักรวรรดิราชาวาสวรมหาวิหาร) or Wat Sam Pleum, dates back to the Ayutthaya period (1350-1767). In around 1819, a devout general, Chao Phraya Bodin Decha (Sing Singhaseni) started rebuilding the site. The work was completed in 1825, and it was presented to King Rama III (reign : 1824 – 1851) as a royal temple.

The temple once housed the Phrabang, or “delicate Buddha“, an 83cm statue, covered in gold leaf, crafted in Sri Lanka (Ceylon) between the 1st and the 9th century, and gifted to the Realm of Angkor. Luang Prabang in Laos was renamed to honour the sacred Buddha image when it first arrived there in 1359. The statue was seized by the Siamese (Thai) in 1778, and again in 1828; in 1867 the Thais returned it to Luang Prabang, where it remains, revered as the mystical national emblem of Laos. To fill the gap at the temple here, another precious Buddha image, the Phranak, was moved from inside Bangkok’s Grand Palace.

As convoluted as the stories behind the Buddha-images in the temple are, finding the reason behind the crocodiles at the complex is even less straight forward. One explanation I found was written by Morgan Thanarojpradit, a Bangkok-based writer, journalist, and artist. According to her, the keeping of crocodiles here goes back to the “legend of the one-eyed croc”.

During the days of the Ayutthaya Kingdom, many crocodiles lived along the Chao Phraya River. One in particular, ‘Ai-bod’ (One-eyed), preyed on people on both sides of the river, killing many and causing widespread terror. Tiring of the carnage, men went out to hunt the man-eater. They chased him into what was then known as Wat Sam Pluem, where he hid under one of the monk’s houses. In the name of the Buddha, the monk asked that the crocodile not be killed; the people were happy to oblige – provided the animal was kept away from the community. So, a pond was dug underneath the monk’s house and a fence was erected. 

A more prosaic story (Portal to the Past) is that a Buddhist monk from Cambodia was raising crocodiles in the temple compound early in the 19th century. Somehow, the crocodiles dug a way through to the nearby canal, and escaped into the Chao Phraya River. The tunnel was sealed up, and today, one male is the only descendant of the original group.

Apparently, Ai-bod is stuffed and on display. We didn’t see him – but we did see the monks feeding his living friends.

Join me for a wander through some unexpected Bangkok streets.

Baan Chao Praya Rice Barge, Chao Pray River

Baan Chao Praya Rice Barge
Bangkok is built on water: the Chao Praya River and the network of canals are the lifeblood of the city. As we make our way up towards Chinatown, we watch the other public ferries and high-end resort shuttle boats slide past the high rise developments and the old shop-houses. The converted rice barges are my favourite.

Chinese Temple on the Chao Praya River, Bangkok Thailand

Chinese Temple on the Chao Praya
In the 1820s, ethnic Chinese were roughly 75% of the Bangkok population. This proportion has dropped over time, but the evidence of Chinese influence is everywhere.

Rusty garage shutters, old Bang Rak Street, Bangkok Thailand

Old Yaowarat Street
Bangkok sprawls in all directions; the first trick is finding a way through it. The main roads are choked with traffic any time of day, so we walked through the honeycomb of back streets towards the temple.

Green leaves and powerlines on textured building, Bangkok Thailand

Powerlines and Textures
Everywhere you look in Bangkok, there are phone and powerlines in abundance overhead.

Air conditioning unit on a derelict building, Bang Rak, Bangkok Thailand

Air Con Gone Wild
There is an irony to finding an old air conditioning unit outside a window with no glass, on a building that the jungle has reclaimed and the vines have grown through. 

Entry to Wat Chakkrawadrajawas Woramahavihara, Bangkok Thailand

Wat Chakkrawadrajawas Woramahavihara
The arch over the temple entry advertises the three main attractions: Buddha’s footprint, a revered Abbot, and the crocodiles.

Crocodile in enclosure, Wat Chakrawatrachawat Woramahawihan, Bangkok Thailand

Crocodile in Wat Chakrawatrachawat Woramahawihan
The enclosures that the crocodiles live in are not as bad as I feared they might be, and it is relatively cool and quiet in the temple grounds.

Crocodile in enclosure, Wat Chakrawatrachawat Woramahawihan, Bangkok Thailand

Crocodile at the Wat
The crocodiles are kept away from each other – and from us – by means of strong, climb resistant fencing.

Wat Chakrawatrachawat Woramahawihan, Bangkok Thailand

Wat Chakrawatrachawat Woramahawihan
The old buildings inside the compound are quite beautiful in a traditional Thai manner.

Fat Monk in a Niche, Wat Chakrawatrachawat Woramahawihan, Bangkok Thailand

Laughing Monk in a Niche
In the temple gardens, in front of the monks’ quarters, there is a cave formation housing a small statue of a fat monk. According to the story, there once was a devout monk who was so slim and good-looking that local women would pester him constantly. So, he took himself off to a nearby ravine where he gorged on food. Once he became very fat, he was no longer attractive and could meditate in peace.

The Buddha’s Shadow, Wat Chakrawatrachawat Woramahawihan, Bangkok Thailand

Phra Puttha Chai – The Buddha’s Shadow
The little cave complex also shelters a depiction of the Buddha’s shadow, where people leave offerings.

Prang on the Mondop, Wat Chakrawatrachawat Woramahawihan, Bangkok Thailand

Prang on the Mondop
A prang is a conically shaped tower originating in Khmer architecture. This one sits atop the mondop or mandapa, the pavilion housing the Buddha’s footprint and Ai-bod’s stuffed body.

Prang and Ubosot, Wat Chakrawatrachawat Woramahawihan, Bangkok Thailand

Prang behind the Ubosot
The Ubosot, or Ordination Hall, in the temple is decorated with stucco work depicting incarnations of the Buddha.

Fishing on the Klong
Back outside the temple grounds, life goes on. People are fishing in the filthy and polluted waters of the klong (canal) that we cross. I can’t imagine eating anything caught there!

Thai woman selling bags of sweet, Bangkok Thailand

Chinatown Shopkeeper

The Nightingale–Olympic shopping centre, Bangkok Thailand

The Nightingale–Olympic Co Ltd
The brightly coloured façade of the oldest continuously-operating shopping mall in Bangkok drew us across the road. We weren’t allowed to take photos inside: …

Shop Window reflections: Nightingale–Olympic shopping centre, Bangkok Thailand

Shop Window: Nightingale–Olympic
… suffice it to say, it was a surreal throw-back to the past. The staff were ancient: wrinkled and gray, and dressed in dull clothing, like something out of a horror movie. The upstairs could have been a museum: full of antique musical instruments and covered in a light film of dust. Even the windows displayed items no one could possible want to buy!

The Old Siam Shopping Plaza, Thanon Burapha Bangkok

Thanon Burapha
But, there is some life in the streets outside the Old Siam Shopping Plaza

Wiring and transformers, Bangkok Thailand

Wiring Overhead
… and plenty of evidence of power overhead.

Afternoon sun over rooftops of Bangkok, Thailand

Bangkok Skyline
The afternoon sun angles low over the mixed skyline that includes aerials, satellite dishes and the dome of a mosque, …

Afternoon sun behind a Shrine on the Chao Praya Bangkok, Thailand

Shrine on the Chao Praya
… and back-lights a shrine on the riverside.

Chinese lanterns over a dead-end road, Chinatown Bangkok Thailand

Chinatown Corridor
The lanterns overhead are little help, as we lose light in a city of crazy contrasts.

In the lowering light, we stopped for a cold drink and a break, while deciding where to go with our cameras after dark –

Text: Happy Rambles, Ursula :-)

Because there is always something new and interesting to find in Bangkok.

Until next time,

Happy Rambles!

Photos: 12October2018

Stage portrait of Leesa Gentz singing, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Leesa Gentz
Leesa Gentz doing what she does best: raising the roof with her band Hussy Hicks at this year’s Byron Bay Bluesfest.

I always look forward to the annual Easter long-weekend Byron Bay Bluesfest. The environment is relaxed, and although the weather can be challenging, the music is always fine!

As much as I love the opportunity to enjoy performers from around the world (e.g.: Spotlight on International Performers; and Dancing in the Dark), especially those I have loved since my youth (see: Old Rockers, Punk and Protest), I also marvel at the depth of talent available closer to home. Every year, I enjoy a sampling of Australian artists (e.g.: The Locals): both old favourites and new finds.

This year was no exception! I was thrilled to float across the large festival grounds, and to sample from the very different acts on the stages in five tents at any given time. For me, half the fun is trying to get portraits that say something about the performers, in the unpredictable stage lighting. These shots are taken on my old Canon 6D with a EF70-200 lens (with no Image Stabilisation!) at f 2.8 and ISO 1600 or 3200, and post-processed in an old version of Lightroom.

I had fun – I hope you enjoy!

 (Track: Caiti BakerRough Old Town)

Tash Sultana on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Tash Sultana
Self-taught singer-songwriter, beat boxer, vocalist, instrumentalist and loopologist, the energetic and irrepressible Tash Sultana is extraordinary! You can’t help but smile and dance as she sets up her layers of sound.

Caiti Baker singing, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Caiti Baker
She swings, she rocks: she belongs in a smokey, jazzy, blues club: Caiti Baker is one of my favourites!

Caiti Baker singing, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Caiti Baker
Billed as an R&B/Soul singer-songwriter, Caiti was raised in a house full of blues, soul, gospel and rock & roll, and crosses all the genres.

Caiti Baker and John Bartlett on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Caiti Baker and John Bartlett
The attached music track Rough Old Town (above) is Caiti’s tribute to the rustic rural communities of Australia.

Leesa Gentz and Lukas Nelson on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Leesa Gentz and Lukas Nelson
One of the great joys of festivals is collaboration! Our own Leesa Gentz from Hussy Hicks was called on to join Lukas Nelson and POTR on stage for some powerhouse vocals. Even she looks a bit star-struck!

Nicky Bomba on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Nicky Bomba
This is my new favourite: Nicholas Caruana aka Nicky Bomba, Maltese-born Australian musician-singer-songwriter and band frontman, … 

Melbourne Ska Orchestra on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Melbourne Ska Orchestra
… fills the stage with people, and fills the tent with joyous sound.

Melbourne Ska Orchestra on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Melbourne Ska Orchestra
Bomba formed the ARIA Award-winning Melbourne Ska Orchestra (MSO) in 2003.

Horns of the Melbourne Ska Orchestra on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Horns in your Face!
The MSO ranges from 26 to 34 members, playing music from the golden ska period, …

Horns of the Melbourne Ska Orchestra on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

More Horns – MSO
… and clearly enjoying every minute. I returned for a second performance; both were infectious smile-inducing toe-tapping experiences.

Shops after dark, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Night Shopping
The festival grounds are full of delightful boutique shopping – if you can tear yourself away from the music!

A troupe of male acrobats performing, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Afternoon Entertainment
During the days, the festival atmosphere brings out performers from the local community.

A troupe of male acrobats performing, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Acrobats
These young men are clearly enjoying themselves, …

A troupe of male acrobats performing, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Acrobats
… and are very well practiced.

Tex Perkins on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Tex Perkins
I’ve loved Tex Perkins’ story-telling and his sweet, raspy baritone …

Tex Perkins on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Tex Perkins
… since his 2000 Dark Horses album.

Tex Perkins on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Tex Perkins
One writer has called the Dark Horses ‘soulful mid-tempo pub rock’.

Tex Perkins on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Tex Perkins

Thando Sikwila on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Thando
Thando Sikwila is a Zimbabwean-born Australian R&B soulsinger, songwriter and actor based in Melbourne.

Thando Sikwila on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Thando
Others knew her from her appearance on The Voice Australia or from her role in the local production of Dreamgirls, but she was new to me.

Thando Sikwila on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Thando
Her effortlessly soaring vocals and joyful performance of original uplifting, heartfelt, soulful R&B songs won me over completely. 

Hussy Hicks on stage Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Hussy Hicks
Any regular visitor to this page has heard me rave about Hussy Hicks before. (e.g.: The Local Lineup; Aussie Women Rock.)

Julz Parker on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Julz Parker – Hussy Hicks
Julz is regularly listed among Australia’s top guitar players, and was voted fifth in the Bluesfest’s Guitar Hero fan poll. Not bad, considering she was pipped by Santana and BB King!

Leesa Gentz on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Leesa Gentz – Hussy Hicks
Leesa’s vocals loop and soar and give me chills. She also does a little percussion, a little guitar, and a whole lot of smiling.

Ali Foster on stage Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Ali Foster – Hussy Hicks
The newest addition to the Hussy Hicks line-up is drummer Ali Foster. She is having as much fun as the rest of us.

Tracy Bassy and Leesa Gentz on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Tracy Bassy and Leesa Gentz – Hussy Hicks
Bass guitar and vocals – playing off each other.

Man on blues harp, on stage Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Father Parker with Hussy Hicks
Guitarist Julz Parker’s father joins the women on stage for a couple of numbers with his harmonica.

Julz Parker and Marshall Okell on stage at Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Julz Parker and Marshall Okell
Byron Bay guitarist Marshall Okell joins Hussy Hicks on stage to duel guitars.

Stage portrait of Leesa Gentz singing, Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, AU

Leesa Gentz
In the end, Hussy Hicks always bring the house down.

Text: To the Music

They can lift you up or break your heart; they can make you smile or have you in tears.

But, our local talents are unlikely to leave you unaffected!

I have my tickets for next year.

Who’s joining me?

Pictures: 18-22April2019

  • john sampson - October 29, 2019 - 4:27 am

    was a great read Greg, you must be a very proud father and from one music father to another as my lad is accomplished lead ax man in darwin. love the page will try to get tickets for nexy years BBBF and maybe will hook up that would be a treat.well done Greg Parker regards Sambo.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - October 29, 2019 - 12:14 pm

      Thanks for visiting, John!ReplyCancel

    • Christina Hennessy - February 7, 2024 - 6:01 pm

      Hope all is well with you John.. nice memories…ReplyCancel