.jpg) Asaro Mudmen
Like something out of a bad dream … with bamboo fingers clacking, an otherwise silent, ghost-like Mudman appears out of the Papua New Guinea jungle. Papua New Guinea is a veritable pastiche of colours and customs, jungle noises and music, tribal warfare and elaborately costumed dance. Creation myths abound, wending their way through oral history and everyday life, so that ancient legends are transformed into marketing strategies, and no one can be sure any longer which is which.
That is the way it is with culture: it is not static. Sometimes it takes on elements through expediency or through interactions with more powerful or more interesting groups; other times, the edges of traditions harden to repel the pressures of change. Culture ebbs and flows.
Papua New Guinea’s ruggedly mountainous and heavily jungled terrain is home to hundreds of indigenous peoples. Many of these tribal groups had no contact with ‘outsiders’ before the early 1900s – after which time, their unique practices and cultural complexity made PNG an attractive location for anthropologists studying traditional societies and changing social structures.
This academic study – predominantly from the ethnocentric perspective of Western thought and values – has not necessarily brought any clarity to the origins or meanings of particular cultural practices. The ‘meaning’ of culture here is under the political pressures that are on a fledgeling nation wanting to maintain traditional values while fostering a unified ‘national’ identity among the more than 7000 different community groups who speak 851 distinct languages. Add to this, the marketing pressures of a developing country using its own unique cultural heritage to attract foreign tourist dollars, and you have ‘cultural colour’ packaged for tourism. Who hasn’t seen colourful pictures of Highland warriors in PNG promotional advertising?
I only had a brief time in the country – two weeks across four main locations: Port Moresby (see: A Slice of Life and Life on the Edge); Milne Bay (see: Portraits from the Dance and Innocent Eyes and Head Hunters); the Middle Sepik (see: Ursula’s Weekly Wanders Sepik PNG); and Mount Hagen (see: Mt Hagen), so my understanding of the culture is superficial at best. Under the guidance of photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours, our small group of photography enthusiasts was focussed on the various song-and-dance shows, or sing sings, on offer during our visit.
It was in this context that I got to meet a small group of Asaro Mudmen. Traditionally, this unique tribe comes from outside Goroka in the Eastern Highlands Province, but there is also a community in Pogla close to Mount Hagen, which is more likely where the men I met were from. Thanks to our hosts, Paiya Tours, the Mudmen had arrived a day before the annual Paiya Mini Show to show us how they prepared themselves for war – or for exhibition performances, as is more often the case these days.
As I watched the “how”, I struggled with the “why”. I have since come across three distinct explanations for the masked costumes that the Asaro people display for tourists visiting their villages, and for sing sing performances.
We were told that the Asaro, having been defeated in battle by another Highland tribe, retreated to the Asaro River. When they emerged, they were covered in thick white mud, and their enemies believed that they were the spirits of the dead, and ran away in fear. A variation of this story that I have read is that the idea for the masks came to an Asaro elder in a dream.
Another story, published by the BBC (Behind the Masks), suggests that the custom began when one Asaro man, who was invited to a wedding, had no traditional costume to wear and so fashioned a mask from a bilum (string bag) and clay mud. Rather than impressing his friends, they thought he was a ghost and ran away.
These stories imply that these heavy clay masks and bamboo finger extensions date back at least to the tribal village raids of the 1800s. However, in a paper published in 1996 (The Asaro Mudmen: Local Property, Public Culture?), Danish anthropologists Ton Otto and Robert J. Verloop make the case for a much more modern design of the Mudman costume, claiming that it was invented by Asaro Valley villagers for the first Eastern Highlands Agricultural Show in 1957, but that the concept was based on the traditional practice of bakime – disguising oneself with tree sap, mud, or clay (to prevent reprisals) before performing a raid or attempting an assassination. It is a common Highland practice to cover ones entire body with charcoal to look more frightening for battle, or to smear oneself with clay or mud as an expression of grief.
Whatever the genesis of the Mudmen, it was fascinating watching them get ready to perform. Truly, their headpieces are far too hot and heavy to be worn into battle, so a ‘performance’ has to be enough!
Do join me!
.jpg) In the Hills of the Highlands
Everywhere in Papua New Guinea is a long way from everywhere else! After a flight from Port Moresby to Mount Hagen, we drove west through the Highlands to Paiya Village. .jpg) Pig in a Pen
Pigs are central to economic and cultural life in Papua New Guinea, so it is no surprise that we pass several in Paiya Village as we walk down to what will – the next day – be the fairgrounds.  Cassowary in a Cage
Native to the tropical forests of Papua New Guinea, flightless cassowaries are billed as the world’s most dangerous birds. Even so, some people in the Highlands raise captured chicks as semi-tame poultry for use in ceremonial gift exchanges and for food. On the Path
As we head down the road for our private photo-shoot, villagers go about their daily lives. Patriarch in a Knitted Cap
Although August is the coolest month here in the Highlands, it is still warm. I can’t imagine needing a wool hat! Mudmen
In only their grass-and leaf-loincloths, the Asaro men apply white clay to their bodies. Mudmen Masks
Each man makes a mask to his own design. These masks have evolved over the years, and are now thick and heavy headdresses that can be worn for only a few minutes at a time. Fixing Mudman Fingers
Getting ready is a co-operative affair; it is impossible to apply one’s own bamboo talons! Mudman Head and Fingers
The long, bird-like talons made from sharpened bamboo make a surreal noise when clicked together. The Mudmen are Ready!
The older man has his bamboo stick or spear, rather than fingernails. On and Off
The headpieces are hot and heavy, … Elder Asaro
… and the men take them off at every opportunity. The Watcher
A local child watches in fascination. Mudmen and their Masks
Traditionally, Asaro Mudmen come from outside Goroka in the Eastern Highlands Province, but today, there is a community in Pogla, close to Mount Hagen, which is more likely where these men are from. Bamboo Nails
Those ‘nails’ could be deadly! Coming through the Jungle
The tribes of Papua New Guinea agree on very little, but most fear spirits and ghosts, which is what makes the almost-silent approach off a Mudman so eerie for them. Clacking Nails
The intermittent, rhythmic clacking of the nails is disturbing. Bamboo Fingers
The Mudmen work at looking ominous, but I find the masks somewhat poignant and sad instead. Demonic Clay Mask
In the past, the mud masks were more threatening, with raised eyebrows and growling mouths, but Otto and Verloop suggest that less frightening facial features are a response to the demands of tourism. Bamboo Fingers Young Woman of Paiya
Local villagers come out to watch us as we watch the cultural performers. Mudman Local Elder
A Paiya Village elder keeps an eye on us as we interact with the performers. Mudman Figurine
Today, the Mudmen make small dolls for sale to tourists. (iPhone6) 
It was a fascinating glimpse into another world – and that’s the thing with Papua New Guinea: every few miles, the ‘world’ changes!
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 17August2017
Lukas Nelson
This is a live-act I never tire of: I’ve seen Lukas Nelson and the POTR at a number of Bluesfests, and they always deliver. It is addictive: five days of quality blues-and-roots (and beyond) musicians from around the world, all in one family-friendly location.
There were so many international performers to choose from at this year’s Easter long-weekend Byron Bay Bluesfest that I’ve broken my posts into sections (see: Spotlight on International Performers; Old Rockers, Punk and Protest) – and, there were many, many more I didn’t see. With five-or-more artists performing at any given time in the giant festival pavilions at Tyagarah Tea Tree Farm, one truly is spoilt for choice.
I revel in the opportunity to drift in and out of tents until I find “new” favourites to add to the “old” sounds I love. I’ve said it before: the performers that stand out the most for me are often those that I wouldn’t seek out on my own.
A number of the international artists that I sampled this year were from Ireland and the British Isles; the rest were American – mostly Southern – but they were all different. And they were all good – even though some were more to my taste than others.
For me, the other challenge is to get myself close enough (without the benefit of a Press Pass) to be able to take a few photos under low light. Much as I’d love better equipment, you have to work with what you have! Most of these are taken on a Canon 6D with a EF70-200 lens (with no Image Stabilisation!) at f 2.8 and ISO 1600 or 3200. This then results in a lot of ‘noise’, which coupled with tricky light balances from the stage lights makes for interesting processing challenges in Lightroom.
I hope you enjoy these musical portraits.
Tent Tops
The flow of people in and out of the big tents is continuous as evening falls over the festival grounds. Hosier on the Crossroads Stage
Irish singer-songwriter-musician Hozier kept the crowd on their feet – especially with his multi-platinum debut single “Take Me to Church”. Gary Clark Jr
Texan Gary Clark Jr took to the backlit Mojo Stage with his edgy fusion of blues, rock, hip hop and soul music. Flogging Molly
Irish vocalist Dave King hasn’t lost any of the energy and enthusiasm that has gained the seven-piece Irish-American Celtic punk band Flogging Molly its loyal following. Snarky Puppy
You know that when you have this many people on stage, you will be hit with a wall of sound! The Brooklyn-based jazz and funk collective Snarky Puppy includes between 10 and 25 musicians at any given time. Lukas Nelson and POTR
Of course, since then, Lukas – son of Willie Nelson – has garnered accolades for his work on Bradley Cooper and Lady Gaga’s “A Star Is Born” soundtrack. Lukas Nelson and POTR
Billed as “Cowboy Hippy Surf Rock”, their sets are always entertaining and energetic. Fantastic Negrito
Xavier Amin Dphrepaulezz, stage name Fantastic Negrito, tells the most extraordinary musical stories. Fantastic Negrito
His life has gone through amazing changes: … Fantastic Negrito
… including critical physical injury following a near-fatal car crash in 1999 that left him in a coma for three weeks. He reinvented himself and his music, calling his new style “black roots music for everyone”. Fantastic Negrito
He is fiercely individual, writing the music he want to write – and now recording under his own cooperative record label. Deva Mahal
The daughter of one of my favourite blues musicians, Taj Mahal, New York-based soul and R&B singer Deva Mahal launched her solo career in 2017. Deva Mahal
Deva’s style ranges across Soul, Funk, R&B, Indie-pop, Gospel and Blues. Deva Mahal
Writing her own songs, she cites Tracy Chapman, Nina Simone and Lauryn Hillamong her influences. Ward Thomas
Twin sisters Catherine and Lizzy Ward Thomas, from a farm in rural Hampshire, England, have been called “Britain’s first country stars”. Ward Thomas
Accomplished musicians, … Ward Thomas
… the women blend and weave vocals magically. Ward Thomas
I loved their performances – but I still don’t know which one is which! Marcus King
The Southern-blues-rock sounds of the Marcus King Band are led by young singer, songwriter, and guitarist, Marcus King from Greenville, South Carolina. Anderson East
Another American Southern soul, R&B, gospel and blues-rock musician, Anderson East from Athens, Alabama, is unpretentious but instantly charismatic. Allen Stone
The last American soul and R&B singer and musician I listened to was Allen Stone, called by USA Today a “pitch-perfect powerhouse”. Sound Mixing
Behind the scenes, the technicians keep it all happening. I was going to pass on next year’s tickets, but I couldn’t resist: as I said, Bluesfest Byron Bay is addictive!
So, I’m ready for 2020.
Until then,
Let’s keep dancing!
Photos: 18-22April2019
Posted in environmental portraits,Music,performersTags: Australia,Bluesfest Byron Bay,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,low light,music,musicians,performance,performers,Photo Blog,Ursula Wall
Atlas 109-D Rocket – Cape Canaveral
This is the stuff of my childhood imaginings! The first American to orbit the earth, back on February 20, 1962, was John Glenn in the Friendship 7. This is the very Mercury-Atlas Launch Vehicle that fired him into space. Once upon a time, long, long ago, we told fanciful stories about a moon made of cheese, and about a man who lived there.
Then, fifty years ago this week, while we all watched on our flickery black-and-white television screens, American astronauts Commander Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin exited their Apollo Lunar Module Eagle and walked on the surface of that same moon, and Michael Collins orbited it in the Command Module Columbia.
Like anyone else of my era, I know exactly where I was when it happened!
It is hard to imagine now, in this age of the 24-hour news cycle, how this single event captured the Western world’s imagination. Twenty percent of the world’s population watched humans walk on the Moon for the first time. We sat, transfixed: watching grainy pictures of two grown men in oversize baggy suits dancing, hopping, and floating across the lunar landscape, collecting not cheese, but lumps of rock.
In those days, the American Space Program was part of a competitive ‘space race’. When the USSR launched the world’s first artificial satellite, Sputnik (Russian for “traveller”), into the Earth’s orbit on October 4, 1957, it was seen as an indicator of Russian technological superiority. In an era of Cold War, this generated alarm and anxiety in the United States and in some of its allies. This was compounded when, in April 1961, one month before Alan Shepard’s suborbital flight, Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin became the first man to enter Earth’s orbit.
Public reaction to these events led directly to President John F. Kennedy making a special speech to the United States congress on May 25, 1961, committing American funds and energy to the space race, and promising to land a man on the Moon and return him safely to Earth within the decade. In our Canadian classrooms, we drew colourful pictures of moons and stars, cosmonauts and astronauts, and rockets and space capsules. And, as I said earlier, we all watched, when – eight years later, on July 20th, 1969 – Armstrong stepped out of Eagle, the Apollo lunar landing module and into the moon’s low gravity. Four days later, we held our collective breath as the capsule carrying the three astronauts splashed down safely in the North Pacific Ocean after more than eight days in space.
It was a thrill, on a road-trip through the US some years ago, to be able to review some of this space history on visits to NASA Space Centers in Houston: where the control rooms were/are, and Cape Canaveral: where the rockets were actually launched.
And, with the anniversary of the first lunar landing this week, it was neat to look at these old pictures. Join me for a walk back in time.
Space Station and an Astronaut
The Space Center Houston is a Smithsonian Affiliate museum and the official visitor centre for the NASA Johnson Space Center. You are immersed in the experience from the moment you enter. Reflections of Space
The centre prides itself on its extensive STEM (science, technology, engineering and mathematics) education programs – but I’m just as interested in the shiny bits! A Robonaut
Pure science fiction! Designed and built here in Houston at the Johnson Space Center, robonauts are dexterous humanoid robots. Guide Tyler
From the Space Center Houston, visitors can can take an open-air tram tour of parts of the Johnson Space Center. The Power of a Phone
Our first stop is at Building 30, home of the Apollo Mission Control Center. Our guide told us that each of us has more computing power in our mobile phones than Houston Mission Control had in the banks of computers they used to launch the whole moon landing! Zarya – Sunrise
The US-funded and Russian-built Zarya, which means “Sunrise” was the first element launched (in 1998) for the International Space Station. Capsules on the Floor
Building 9 houses the Space Vehicle Mockup Facility. (iPhone6) Saturn V Moon Rocket
This workhorse launched 13 times from the Kennedy Space Center in Florida … Saturn V Rocket
… before retiring to the hangar here. Kids in a Capsule
The John F Kennedy Space Center on Cape Canaveral in Florida is a family-friendly place. Saturn IB Launch Vehicle
The Saturn IB rocket has pride of place in the forecourt of the Kennedy Space Center. Saturn IB Skin
In use from 1966 through 1975, the rocket shows signs of hard work. International Space Station
Cape Kennedy facilities have been pivotal in designing, building, launching, and maintaining many International Space Station components. Vehicle Assembly Building
The 160-metre tall Vehicle Assembly Building, used for stacking NASA’s largest rockets, is among the 700 unique facilities on the Kennedy Center’s sprawling site. Mobile Service Structure
A massive service structure allows the assembly and servicing of space ship components. Apollo Launch Control Room
Inside the Apollo/Saturn V Center building, we are treated to an audio-visual presentation of the Apollo 11 launch. Press Clippings
The Apollo 11 moon landing captured people’s imagination the world over. Apollo 11 Patch
Designed by the astronauts themselves, the Apollo 11 logo sits over the Apollo Treasures Gallery. Kitty Hawk : Apollo 14 Crew Capsule
It is hard to imagine three men trapped inside these sophisticated tin cans for any length of time. The Capsule
The tiny porthole does not afford much comfort! Apollo EVA (Extra Vehicular Activity) Suits The Rocket Garden None of the later space endeavours captured the public’s imagination in quite the same way as the Apollo 11 mission. And, there are still conspiracy theorists who argue about shadows; the effects of wind, gravity, and inertia; and claim that the landing never happened.
Most of us, though, seeing men on the moon let go of fantasies about the man in the moon, and instead, dreamed of further travels into space.
It was a magical moment in time, full of hope and promise.
And now, tinged with nostalgia.
Until next time.
Pictures: 22May2013 and 02June2013
Posted in Aviation,Museum,Space,USATags: architecture,museum,NASA,Photo Blog,space,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,USA
Dorze Woman
The Dorze people are one of over 80 different ethnic groups in Ethiopia. Many of the roughly 30,000 Omotic-speaking members of this group live in southern Ethiopia – in the region of Arba Minch. ‘Toto, I’ve a feeling we’re not in Kansas anymore.’
This sense of dislocation – in a positive way – often arises when travelling off the beaten track. In Southern Ethiopia, I was so far off the popular routes that most of the ‘highways’ I was on weren’t paved!
Around the city of Arba Minch – which sits about 500 kilometres south of Addis Ababa – the mountains are dotted with Dorze villages, and the passes are full of cows. The Dorze people live in distinctive beehive-shaped woven bamboo huts. For the most part, life there continues much as it has for hundreds of years, with people spinning and weaving their cotton by hand, herding their cattle, cooking flat bread on the fire, and making liquor from the flesh of the false banana tree. In the absence of electricity, laundry is still done in a tub or in the closest running stream.
In spite of their small numbers, the Dorze have learned how to preserve their culture by packaging it for tourist consumption. By hosting ‘village visits’, they give visitors a little taste of their traditional life, while at the same time generating income and passing skills and stories down to the next generation.
I was in Ethiopia on a small-group Piper Mackay Photo-Tour led by photographer Ben McRae. Together with local guide Danny from Grand Holidays Ethiopia Tours, we flew from Addis Ababa to Arba Minch on our way to the Omo Valley; the visit to a Dorze village was to be our first tribal cultural contact.
Ethiopian Airlines Bombardier Dash 8
Arba Minch is a short flight (or very long drive!) south of Addis Abiba. (iPhone6) View over my Balcony
The view from my little hut at the aptly-named Paradise Lodge was quite idyllic. Small Bills Bundled
We are definitely ‘not in Kansas‘! The tour organisers provided us all with an envelope stuffed with Ethiopian Birr in small notes. Many, many years ago, the tribal groups in the Omo Valley learned to monetise their unique appearance. All photos (and this includes not just portraits, but houses, fences, goats and cattle, etc.) are on a fee-for-click basis. Fortunately for me, a bundle of 100 5 ETB worked out to about $AUD5! (iPhone6) Dusty Roadway
After lunch in the open air, overlooking the mountains and the Rift-Valley lakes, we climb higher into the hills to find our Dorze Village. Dorze Village
These unique elephant-shaped Dorze houses are reputed to be inspired by the beasts who once roamed freely across this region. The huts start out very tall: up to 12 metres of woven bamboo on a wooden frame, with two hooded air holes resembling eyes near the top. When the ubiquitous termites attack the base, the house is lifted, shaved off at the bottom, and moved. So, although the homes can last 60 to 80 years, they get shorter over time. Hand-Spinning Cotton
The Dorze are known for their fine hand-made cotton products, with the women spinning and the men doing the weaving. It is thought that weaving was not indigenous, but was actually introduced from the north. Dorze Woman Stripping Greens
The leaf of the false banana tree has a multitude of uses. Shredding the leaves, as this young woman is doing, creates fibre for rope and pulp for a flat-bread base or for fermenting into liquor. Shredding Banana Leaf
The ensete ventricosum, or false banana tree, is so widely grown and used here that it is commonly known as the Ethiopian banana. I was just as fascinated by this young woman’s long braids! Dorza Man with a Tray
Kocho (unleavened bread) is made from the starchy false banana rhizome and the flesh of its leaves. Dorze Woman in the Smoke
Cooking is all done over small fires; the courtyard is smoky and hazardous to anyone with asthma! Dorze Woman Drivers Gathering
The drivers have heard it all before! They head straight out to the snack table at the back. Dark Eyes and Curly Hair
Those cork-screw curls look so soft and shiny – it was hard to resist reaching out to touch them! Woman in a Headscarf
There was a selection of woven goods for sale (as well as beads and carvings). Naturally, I added to my scarf collection. Doing Laundry
In the absence of electricity and running water, all tasks take longer! Kid in a Tree
Inside the compound under the watchful eyes of their elders, the children were very well behaved. Outside the fence, however it was a free-for-all. Young Child
In no time at all, I was surrounded by adorable little people, begging and trying to sell me things. Landscape
We are a long way above Arba Minch – which sits at 1,285 metres. We pause on our way back down to the city to look out over the landscape. Cows in the Road
Of course, we have to stop to give way to the cattle anyway! Young Girl
Youngsters, well versed in the art of posing for photos, appear out of nowhere. Young Girl Old Woman with a Load
While we are stopped, a number of women of all ages are trudging up the hill, … Young Woman with a Load
… almost doubled-over by the large loads of wood they are carrying, but still smiling. Carrying the Wood Young Woman on the Road  It was a wonderful first day in the tribal villages, and I still had plenty of small notes left for the rest of Omo Valley.
Until next time –
Happy Wandering!
Photos: 15October2018
Posted in Africa,Ethiopia,PortraitsTags: Africa,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,Ethiopia,everyday life,landscape,people,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,travel,Travel Blog,tribal life,Ursula Wall
Woman at a Temple
Even though many buildings in the ancient Newari city of Bhaktapur were damaged by the 2015 earthquake, there are people – and there is life – everywhere among the remaining temples and the ruins. The earthquake in Nepal in April 2015 killed more than 8,800 people in that country, injured nearly three times that many, and left nearly 3.5 million homeless. As a further blow to the national psyche, numerous precious historical religious buildings were damaged or destroyed. Many of these were contributors to the 1979 UNESCO World-Heritage listing of the Kathmandu Valley as a site of significant cultural heritage.
Of course, there have been countless disasters – natural and otherwise – around the world since then.
But, disasters in very poor countries like Nepal often have flow-on effects, with the negative repercussions being felt for decades. When I visited in 2017 – two years after the earthquake – the impact was still obvious and palpable.
I was in Nepal as part of a photographic group with travel photographer Gavin Gough and photojournalist Jack Kurtz. I had already observed the after-effects of the quake in the Kathmandu Valley (e.g: Dirt Music; Light and Dark; A Thousand Steps; Dhulikel to Nagarkot; On the Track) and in Kathmandu itself (e.g: Faith, Faces, and Fakes; Light a Candle), and was spending the morning in Bhaktapur.
Bhaktapur, or Khwopa as it is known in the local Newari language, dates back to the early 8th century. It was the largest of the three Newari kingdoms in the Kathmandu Valley (the other two being Kathmandu and Patan) and was the capital of all of Nepal until the second half of the 15th century. It continued to be its own city-state until the 18th century, and has long been recognised as having a rich heritage of traditional art and architecture, which is demonstrated in what was the best-preserved palace courtyards and old city centre in Nepal.
The magnitude 7.8 earthquake inflicted considerable damage on Bhaktapur’s Durbar Square, a significant heritage site included in the UNESCO World Heritage list: “In Bhaktapur, several monuments, including the Fasi Deva temple, the Chardham temple and the 17th century Vatsala Durga Temple, were fully or partially destroyed.” In all, 116 heritage sites in the city were damaged: 67 of these “completely”, and repairs are slow and costly.
But, life goes on. The handicraft industries – woodcarving, metalwork, stonework, pottery, and weaving – are alive and well, and people go about their lives amid the ruins and repairs. The day I visited, it was Holi, and I have posted a few festival photos previously (see: Happy Holi!).
There is plenty to explore in this site of “Living Heritage”.
Nepali Gurkha Army Soldier at the Golden Gate
Only Hindus are allowed into the inner courtyards of the 55 Window Palace. Armed forced from the respected Gurkha regiments stand guard at the torana – the free-standing ornamental or arched gateway. Entering Durbar Square
Archways, colonnades, loose bricks, ruins, shrines, Nepali pilgrims and foreign tourists: Bhaktapur’s Durbar Square is a sensory hodgepodge. The Golden Gate – The Sun Dhoka
This gilded archway, with the 16-armed goddess Taleju Bhawani over the door, is considered one of the most important artworks in the Kathmandu Valley. Theravāda Monks in Motion
Visitors to Bhaktapur come from all over; … Theravāda Monks
… these monks have travelled from Thailand. Buddhist Nun with a Begging Bowl King Bhupatindra Malla Statue
A bronze statue (dated 1699) of King Bhupatindra Malla, king of Bhaktapur from 1696 to 1722, sits high on a pillar in Durbar Square. King Bhupatindra Malla and the Taleju Bell
With his hands in prayer, the king overlooks the Golden Gate and the 55 Window Palace. The rubble remains of the Vatsala Durga Temple – destroyed in the 2015 earthquake, sit behind him. Restored Chyasilin Mandapa
Nepal is no stranger to earthquakes: this was one of the many buildings destroyed by the 1934 quake. It has been rebuilt over a metal core, incorporating original components. Models in the Ruins of Bhaktapur
While I was wandering, models in traditional dress were taking part in a photoshoot. Models on the Steps of Chyasilin Mandapa
With the permission of their Art Director, I made a few shots myself. Looking through Chyasilin Mandapa
With the models elsewhere, the stray dogs go back to sleep. Ruins: Fasidega Temple
Two years after the earthquake, recovery work continues. This is one instance where the ruins might be a good thing: the Fasidega Temple, dedicated to Shiva, was a not-particularly attractive white lump! Elephants: Fasidega Temple
Animals: elephants, lions and cows – still stand guard on the remaining six-level plinth. Woman at the Well
Among the ruins and rebuilding, everyday life goes on. Hindu Shrine
Hindu shrines – large and small – are plentiful in Durbar Square and the rest of Bhaktapur. Life among the Ruins Pashupatinath Temple
Bhaktapur is known for its arts and crafts; shops around the squares and down the alleyways are full of beautiful objects. Artworks also spill into the public spaces. Girl on a Roof Man on the Steps Hindu Icons
Religious iconography and paraphernalia is for sale at regular intervals. Dattatreya Temple
Originally built in 1427 by King Yaksha Malla – supposedly from the timber of a single tree – this temple is dedicated to Dattatreya, who is a mix of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. Malla Wrestler
In front of the Dattatreya Temple, there are two stone statues of popular wrestlers: Jaya Malla and Patta Malla. “Ring the Bell”
Hindu shrines always include bells: the sound of the bell announces your presence to the deities and is believed to clear your mind of thoughts. Bhaktapur Street
The narrow bricked streets are full of life and lined with interesting shops. Polishing Brass
Craftsmen keep busy between customers. Marionette (iPhone6) Men in their Dhaka Topi Hats
People find spots to sit and chat and watch the world go by. Bell, Shrine and Loose Bricks in a Courtyard Buddha in an Alcove Deity in a Niche Child in a Window Bhaktapur Street Scene Singing for Shiva
Somehow, it seems appropriate that my last impression of this venerable “living museum”, was of a musical group sitting in an alcove, singing time-honoured songs for Shiva the Destroyer. Non-Nepali visitors to this ancient Newari city pay an entry-fee; this money helps fund the maintenance and repair of the temples.
 I hope it also goes some way towards the continued rebuilding of difficult lives.
Namate!
Photos: 12March2017
Posted in Architecture,Every Day Life,NepalTags: architecture,environmental portrait,hindu,hinduism,Nepal,people,Photo Blog,religion,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
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Copycats,parasites from Mt Hagen(Paiya)imitating my original culture…what a shame just for quick bucks you can do anything
to fool our international tourists.
Hi Andrew,
I emailed you directly, but haven’t heard back.
Cheers, Ursula
Hi folks greetings from Asaro mudmen villge
Greetings, Andrew!
I hope you got my email. 😀
[…] personally been contacted by someone who said the mudmen whose photos I shared previously (see: Asaro Mudmen), were not entitled to the representation; I referred him back to my local contact, as I’m in […]