Young Hamar Woman With their ochre-coated hair and unique customs, the small population of Hamar people are probably one of the best-known Omotic tribes.
You could call them Ethiopia’s 0.1%.
That is the approximate proportion that the Hamar (or Hamer) people, an agro-pastoralist tribe in the Omo Valley, make up of Ethiopia’s total.
Most of these Hamer-speaking people still live a traditional, semi-nomadic lifestyle on their fertile tribal lands in the Southern Nations, Nationalities, and Peoples Region (SNNPR) of the country. Care of cattle, agricultural practices, and cultural ceremonies continue much as they have for generations. According to one report I read, only seven members of the tribe have ever finished secondary school. The women and girls grow crops – with a focus on the staple of sorghum – and care for the households, meals (mostly maize or sorghum porridge), and children. Older children take care of the goats. Young men tend the crops and protect the cattle – with AK47s! Older men also look after the cattle and the crops, as well as plowing the fields and looking after the beehives nested in the acacia trees.
A tall, good-looking people, the Hamar are possibly the most recognisable of the Omotic tribes. Men, women, and children generally sport multiple strands of colourful beads. The men often wear a clay cap, decorated with feathers. Like other groups in the region, they can be seen carrying or using their small wooden stools/pillows. Women have elaborately decorated goatskin bibs, which – these days – are reserved for special occasions. They layer themselves in beaded belts, bracelets and necklaces, as well as wearing copper or metal necklaces that signify their marital status (e.g.: first wife, second wife, etc.). Most strikingly, they coat their hair in a clay and butter mixture – reminiscent of the Himba people of distant Namibia (e.g.: The Morning Routine).
The Hamar practice scarification, much of which can be quite beautiful. What is alarming is the significations of some of these scars: men wear rows of pala or “hero scars” which relate directly to the number of tribal enemies they have personally killed. In addition to decorative scars, women proudly display ragged wounds on their backs, which they have received from a ritual (and distressing to most outsiders – including me) whipping that takes place as part of men’s ‘cattle jumping’ ceremony. This is a unique coming-of-age-initiation practice – which I’ll talk more about when I get to those pictures. (see: Coming of Age in a Hamar Village).
I visited the Hamar on a number of occasions as part of a small-group Piper Mackay Photo-Tour to the Omo Valley led by photographer Ben McRae. The attached environmental portraits are from our first trip to a large village not far from our rooms in the market town of Turmi.
Do join me!
Laundry in the River It’s a long drive from our starting accommodation in Arba Minch to the Hamar tribal lands. We stop en route to watch as people go about their daily lives.
Donkey Cart The river is the source of drinking water for the villages around here, so re-usable plastic containers are a valuable resource.
Child in Braids Everywhere we stopped, children would surround us, clamouring for our empty (and full!) drink bottles.
Men on the Horizon Finally! We reach the Hamar village that our guide has negotiated for us to enter. The men carry their Kalashnikovs as they watch the boundaries and the livestock. Power lines run across the landscape, but it is not clear where they stop… I saw little evidence of the use of electricity, although there must be a charging station somewhere for the ubiquitous mobile phones.
Young Hamar Girl These people have the most extraordinary faces! This young girl, with her clay-coated hair and worn blanket, had such expressive eyes.
Hamar Girl She patiently counted the ‘clicks’ of my camera as I took pictures of her against the thorn thickets and dry scrub that extend off towards the distant mountains. This is “pay-per-photo” tourism: Ethiopian tribal groups learned long ago that their traditional appearance is their key to a modern livelihood.
Hamar Woman Such regal bearing! This beautiful woman clearly has an important place in the village, as demonstrated by her heavy metal necklaces. The top one is a burkule or binyere. Made of leather and metal with a large cylindrical detail on the front, the burkule indicates she is her husband’s “first wife”.
Hamar Couple The colourfully woven fabric supporting this man’s cap vie for attention with his wife’s layers of bright beads.
Hamar Child Even young children are draped in layers of beads, interspersed with shells and coins.
Hamar Corral The compounds housing extended family are simple structures.
Shell Necklaces Cowry shells were used as currency across much of Africa until the mid 19th century. As cowry are a sea snail, these valuable shells have probably been purchased at the Turmi market. In Hamar culture, they symbolise womanhood, fertility, birth and wealth.
Seated Hamar Woman This beautiful older woman is wearing her traditional goatskin smock. She is seated on the ground, …
Hamar Man in a Hat … unlike an elderly male close by …
Hamar Man on a Stool … who – like all Hamar males – has his wooden stool to sit on.
Man in a Hat These men! When they are not wearing traditional clay caps, they are rocking jazz hats!
Mother, Child and Attitude
Mother’s Scarred Back … while a young mother looks after her infant.
Hamar Girls A teen girl looks after her younger sibling, …
Young Hamar Woman
The Belly and The Belt I love the contrasts: the tribal belt and scarification against the the modern key!
Hamar Man In the traditional communities I’ve visited, men are more likely to be in Western dress. This may be because they wander away from the home village more often than the women.
Goatskin Smocks A pair of friends show off their traditional goatskin smocks – heavily beaded and adorned with shells.
Young Friends Although these women have similar hairstyles, only one has used the ochre, making for quite a different appearance.
Hamar Attitude I love that strong, direct gaze! These striking looking women are used to being ‘looked at!’
[…] several visits to a large village not far from my accommodation in the market town of Turmi (see: Hamar Village and Hamar Faces). I was travelling with photographer Ben McRae as part of a small-group Piper […]ReplyCancel
[…] made several trips to a large Hamar village not far from our accommodation (see: Hamar Village, Hamar Faces, and Hamar Portraits). This was to be our last session with the tribe before we headed […]ReplyCancel
[…] the beautiful Omo Valley, where our base was in Turmi. Over the next days, we visited Hamar (e.g.: Visit to a Hamar Village, Face in a Hamar Village; Hamar Village Portraits; and Morning Portraits), Daasanach (see: A Visit […]ReplyCancel
Conch Tour Train Key West is a pretty, pedestrian-friendly city of neatly-painted weatherboard houses and leafy streets.
Key West: the land of tropical breezes, fruit cocktails, legendary sunsets and dreams; the home of famous writers, artists, naturalists and presidents; the island city just 144 kilometres (90 miles) north of Cuba, and the southern-most point in the continental United States.
Mile 0!
We made it! My husband and I hadn’t driven the whole US 1 Overseas Highway, which runs 3,813 km (2,369 miles) north-south along the East Coast of the United States. We had actually travelled further: zig-zagging diagonally about 8000 km (4970 miles) from Seattle, Washington in the northwest corner of the country. So, eating key lime pie on a veranda in the city centre: Old Town, overlooking Duval Street, felt like a real accomplishment!
Key West is a compact walking town. We had parked on the outskirts and taken a shuttle into the centre. The Audubon House and the Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum were on my ‘must see’ list; the Harry S. Truman Little White House was on my husband’s. So, fortified with pie and armed with a guide map, we just wandered.
Driving the Bridges Key West is the southernmost island in the Florida Keys. Highway US1 is as much bridge as it is road as it stretches the 190 kilometres (120 miles) from the bulk of Florida, and across countless tropical islands to the tip of the archipelago. In this picture, on the stretch between Bahia Honda Key and West Summerland Key, the derelict Bahia Honda Railroad Bridge sits in the waters of the Atlantic Ocean. (iPhone4S)
“Conch Fritters” Key West owes much to the Bahamian immigrants – referred to as “conchs”,possibly because of their love of shellfish – who have been in the Florida Keys since the 1700s. Originating from a traditional Bahamian recipe, conch fritters are now a famously popular Key West delicacy.
The 65 Foot Lookout Tower This lookout, belonging to The Shipwreck Treasure Museum, is modelled on the observation towers that ‘wreckers’ once used to watch for ships in trouble on the reefs along the coast. They would then race out into the waters to claim lucrative salvage rights.
“Time for Fun” A number of large, trompe l’oeil painted bronze statues by part-time Key West resident Seward Johnson are installed in front of the Custom House, Key West’s Art and History Museum. This six metre (20 foot) depiction of an old fashioned dancing couple was inspired by Auguste Renoir’s painting “Dance in the Country.”
“The Fisherman” Also in front of the Custom House is a life-sized bronze cast statue of Ernest Hemingway as a fisherman.
Chicken in the Road You know you are not in a big city when the chickens wander freely next to the roads!
Audubon House White weatherboard with airy verandahs and shuttered windows: the family home built by Captain John Huling Geiger in the 1840s is typical of Key West housing.
American Coot The noted American ornithologist, naturalist, and painter John James Audubon (1785 – 1851) stayed here in 1832, and the house, which is open to the public, now bears his name. The restored mansion features many of Audubon’s beautiful and detailed illustrations of American birds.
Truman’s Little White House The restored Harry S. Truman Little White House, built in 1890, is also open for guided tours. American Presidents, from Howard Taft to Bill Clinton, are among the notables and dignitaries that have used the residence for meetings and working holidays. President Harry S. Truman spent 175 days of his presidency installed here.
Guide Marta – Little White House The house has seen many historic moments, as the guide explains.
In the Words of the Presidents Naturally, the gift shop focusses on presidential memorabilia and famous quotes.
Pink Frangipani and Spanish Moss The gardens everywhere are lush and beautiful.
Frangipani and Ferns One of my favourite plants, the wonderfully scented frangipani (known as plumeria in this part of the world) is native to the tropics of Florida and Central- and South America.
58 Front Street from Emma Street The houses are set close together, but they all have an airy, spacious feel.
Orange Palm Fruit
Six Toed Cat Cafe Next door to the Hemingway House, the roof of the charming and well-rated Six Toed Cat Cafe is almost covered in “flame tree” flowers. The royal poinciana (Delonix regia) is the city of Key West’s official tree.
Six Toed Cat in the Hemingway House Ernest Hemingway was, among other things, a cat lover. In the 1930s, a sea captain gave Hemingway a white polydactyl (many-toed) kitten named Snow White. Polydactyly in many creatures (including humans) is inherited from a dominant gene. Sailors preferred polydactyl cats because they were thought to be good luck, and it is claimed they are better mousers and have better balance on rough seas.
Hemingway’s Six Toed Cat Hemingway bought his 1851-built Spanish Colonial house in 1931 and lived here until 1940. It is now a museum, and a home for the 40-50 descendants of his cats – about half of whom have extra digits, and all of whom carry the polydactyl gene.
Cat’s Headstones Hemingway named all his cats after famous people – and that tradition has been carried on. Flagstones in the garden mark the deceased.
Hemingway’s Carriage House Hemingway converted the free-standing carriage house into his writing studio, and connected it to the master bedroom in the main house with a second story walkway.
Writer’s Studio The walkway no longer exists, but the studio has been maintained. He wrote some of his best work here, including A Farewell to Arms, Death in the Afternoon, and For Whom the Bell Tolls, before moving to Cuba with his third wife in 1940.
Audubon Layers Key West leaves the visitor with a kaleidoscope of impressions.
I could have stayed for days – but accommodation in Key West is prohibitively expensive, so we had opted to overnight on the less pricy Marathon Key. That way we could still afford a mahi-mahi dinner and a sunset cocktail.
Sadly, we found the car, pointed it north, and left the delightful Key West behind.
With Jimmy Buffett music on the PA system as we drank our fruity drinks and watched the tropical sunset, we could pretend we were back there…
[…] and I made around the United States, we managed to hit the southernmost point of Key West (see: Mile Zero and Hemingway’s Cats). As much as I would have loved to stay in that delightful, laid-back island-city, it was far too […]ReplyCancel
Bangkok’s Chinatown Skyline Bangkok is a city of contrasts: here, October rain clouds sit over the relatively modern (1994) 36-floor Bangkok River Park Condominium and the ornate red and gold of the ancient Ayutthaya-period Wat Sam Pleum.
Bangkok is one of those incredible places where – no matter how much time you have spent there – there is something wild and unexpected around the corner.
After years of living in this amazing city, and more years of visiting, I feel pretty comfortable in my own little corner, but I haven’t really even scratched the surface of the rest of this sprawling metropolis.
On my last stay in the city, I got lazy: rather than try to find something new and different on my own, I put the call out for friends who wanted to do a “photowalk” somewhere interesting. I got lucky – another former-resident was passing through, and we met up for lunch and a wander into the always-photogenic Chinatown, better known locally as Yaowarat (see: A Day in the Life). Our aim was to find Wat Chakkrawadrajawas Woramahavihara, which neither of us had visited before. Although the temple is known for its excellent examples of classic Thai Buddhist Temple architecture, it is probably more famous (infamous?) for its nickname: “Crocodile Temple” and the crocodiles that are kept on the grounds in cemented pens.
Wat Chakkrawadrajawas Woramahavihara (วัดจักรวรรดิราชาวาสวรมหาวิหาร) or Wat Sam Pleum, dates back to the Ayutthaya period (1350-1767). In around 1819, a devout general, Chao Phraya Bodin Decha (Sing Singhaseni) started rebuilding the site. The work was completed in 1825, and it was presented to King Rama III (reign : 1824 – 1851) as a royal temple.
The temple once housed the Phrabang, or “delicate Buddha“, an 83cm statue, covered in gold leaf, crafted in Sri Lanka (Ceylon) between the 1st and the 9th century, and gifted to the Realm of Angkor. Luang Prabang in Laos was renamed to honour the sacred Buddha image when it first arrived there in 1359. The statue was seized by the Siamese (Thai) in 1778, and again in 1828; in 1867 the Thais returned it to Luang Prabang, where it remains, revered as the mystical national emblem of Laos. To fill the gap at the temple here, another precious Buddha image, the Phranak, was moved from inside Bangkok’s Grand Palace.
As convoluted as the stories behind the Buddha-images in the temple are, finding the reason behind the crocodiles at the complex is even less straight forward. One explanation I found was written by Morgan Thanarojpradit, a Bangkok-based writer, journalist, and artist. According to her, the keeping of crocodiles here goes back to the “legend of the one-eyed croc”.
During the days of the Ayutthaya Kingdom, many crocodiles lived along the Chao Phraya River. One in particular, ‘Ai-bod’ (One-eyed), preyed on people on both sides of the river, killing many and causing widespread terror. Tiring of the carnage, men went out to hunt the man-eater. They chased him into what was then known as Wat Sam Pluem, where he hid under one of the monk’s houses. In the name of the Buddha, the monk asked that the crocodile not be killed; the people were happy to oblige – provided the animal was kept away from the community. So, a pond was dug underneath the monk’s house and a fence was erected.
A more prosaic story (Portal to the Past) is that a Buddhist monk from Cambodia was raising crocodiles in the temple compound early in the 19th century. Somehow, the crocodiles dug a way through to the nearby canal, and escaped into the Chao Phraya River. The tunnel was sealed up, and today, one male is the only descendant of the original group.
Apparently, Ai-bod is stuffed and on display. We didn’t see him – but we did see the monks feeding his living friends.
Join me for a wander through some unexpected Bangkok streets.
Baan Chao Praya Rice Barge Bangkok is built on water: the Chao Praya River and the network of canals are the lifeblood of the city. As we make our way up towards Chinatown, we watch the other public ferries and high-end resort shuttle boats slide past the high rise developments and the old shop-houses. The converted rice barges are my favourite.
Chinese Temple on the Chao Praya In the 1820s, ethnic Chinese were roughly 75% of the Bangkok population. This proportion has dropped over time, but the evidence of Chinese influence is everywhere.
Old Yaowarat Street Bangkok sprawls in all directions; the first trick is finding a way through it. The main roads are choked with traffic any time of day, so we walked through the honeycomb of back streets towards the temple.
Powerlines and Textures Everywhere you look in Bangkok, there are phone and powerlines in abundance overhead.
Air Con Gone Wild There is an irony to finding an old air conditioning unit outside a window with no glass, on a building that the jungle has reclaimed and the vines have grown through.
Wat Chakkrawadrajawas Woramahavihara The arch over the temple entry advertises the three main attractions: Buddha’s footprint, a revered Abbot, and the crocodiles.
Crocodile in Wat Chakrawatrachawat Woramahawihan The enclosures that the crocodiles live in are not as bad as I feared they might be, and it is relatively cool and quiet in the temple grounds.
Crocodile at the Wat The crocodiles are kept away from each other – and from us – by means of strong, climb resistant fencing.
Wat Chakrawatrachawat Woramahawihan The old buildings inside the compound are quite beautiful in a traditional Thai manner.
Laughing Monk in a Niche In the temple gardens, in front of the monks’ quarters, there is a cave formation housing a small statue of a fat monk. According to the story, there once was a devout monk who was so slim and good-looking that local women would pester him constantly. So, he took himself off to a nearby ravine where he gorged on food. Once he became very fat, he was no longer attractive and could meditate in peace.
Phra Puttha Chai – The Buddha’s Shadow The little cave complex also shelters a depiction of the Buddha’s shadow, where people leave offerings.
Prang on the Mondop A prang is a conically shaped tower originating in Khmer architecture. This one sits atop the mondop or mandapa, the pavilion housing the Buddha’s footprint and Ai-bod’s stuffed body.
Prang behind the Ubosot The Ubosot, or Ordination Hall, in the temple is decorated with stucco work depicting incarnations of the Buddha.
Fishing on the Klong Back outside the temple grounds, life goes on. People are fishing in the filthy and polluted waters of the klong (canal) that we cross. I can’t imagine eating anything caught there!
Chinatown Shopkeeper
The Nightingale–Olympic Co Ltd The brightly coloured façade of the oldest continuously-operating shopping mall in Bangkok drew us across the road. We weren’t allowed to take photos inside: …
Shop Window: Nightingale–Olympic … suffice it to say, it was a surreal throw-back to the past. The staff were ancient: wrinkled and gray, and dressed in dull clothing, like something out of a horror movie. The upstairs could have been a museum: full of antique musical instruments and covered in a light film of dust. Even the windows displayed items no one could possible want to buy!
Thanon Burapha But, there is some life in the streets outside the Old Siam Shopping Plaza …
Wiring Overhead … and plenty of evidence of power overhead.
Bangkok Skyline The afternoon sun angles low over the mixed skyline that includes aerials, satellite dishes and the dome of a mosque, …
Shrine on the Chao Praya … and back-lights a shrine on the riverside.
Chinatown Corridor The lanterns overhead are little help, as we lose light in a city of crazy contrasts.
In the lowering light, we stopped for a cold drink and a break, while deciding where to go with our cameras after dark –
Because there is always something new and interesting to find in Bangkok.
Leesa Gentz Leesa Gentz doing what she does best: raising the roof with her band Hussy Hicks at this year’s Byron Bay Bluesfest.
I always look forward to the annual Easter long-weekend Byron BayBluesfest. The environment is relaxed, and although the weather can be challenging, the music is always fine!
As much as I love the opportunity to enjoy performers from around the world (e.g.: Spotlight on International Performers; and Dancing in the Dark), especially those I have loved since my youth (see: Old Rockers, Punk and Protest), I also marvel at the depth of talent available closer to home. Every year, I enjoy a sampling of Australian artists (e.g.: The Locals): both old favourites and new finds.
This year was no exception! I was thrilled to float across the large festival grounds, and to sample from the very different acts on the stages in five tents at any given time. For me, half the fun is trying to get portraits that say something about the performers, in the unpredictable stage lighting. These shots are taken on my old Canon 6D with a EF70-200 lens (with no Image Stabilisation!) at f 2.8 and ISO 1600 or 3200, and post-processed in an old version of Lightroom.
I had fun – I hope you enjoy!
(Track: Caiti Baker – Rough Old Town)
Tash Sultana Self-taught singer-songwriter, beat boxer, vocalist, instrumentalist and loopologist, the energetic and irrepressible Tash Sultana is extraordinary! You can’t help but smile and dance as she sets up her layers of sound.
Caiti Baker She swings, she rocks: she belongs in a smokey, jazzy, blues club: Caiti Baker is one of my favourites!
Caiti Baker Billed as an R&B/Soul singer-songwriter, Caiti was raised in a house full of blues, soul, gospel and rock & roll, and crosses all the genres.
Caiti Baker and John Bartlett The attached music track Rough Old Town (above) is Caiti’s tribute to the rustic rural communities of Australia.
Leesa Gentz and Lukas Nelson One of the great joys of festivals is collaboration! Our own Leesa Gentz from Hussy Hicks was called on to join Lukas Nelson and POTR on stage for some powerhouse vocals. Even she looks a bit star-struck!
Nicky Bomba This is my new favourite: Nicholas Caruana aka Nicky Bomba, Maltese-born Australian musician-singer-songwriter and band frontman, …
Melbourne Ska Orchestra … fills the stage with people, and fills the tent with joyous sound.
Horns in your Face! The MSO ranges from 26 to 34 members, playing music from the golden ska period, …
More Horns – MSO … and clearly enjoying every minute. I returned for a second performance; both were infectious smile-inducing toe-tapping experiences.
Night Shopping The festival grounds are full of delightful boutique shopping – if you can tear yourself away from the music!
Afternoon Entertainment During the days, the festival atmosphere brings out performers from the local community.
Acrobats These young men are clearly enjoying themselves, …
Acrobats … and are very well practiced.
Tex Perkins I’ve loved Tex Perkins’ story-telling and his sweet, raspy baritone …
Tex Perkins … since his 2000 Dark Horses album.
Tex Perkins One writer has called the Dark Horses ‘soulful mid-tempo pub rock’.
Tex Perkins
Thando Thando Sikwila is a Zimbabwean-born Australian R&B soulsinger, songwriter and actor based in Melbourne.
Thando Others knew her from her appearance on The Voice Australia or from her role in the local production of Dreamgirls, but she was new to me.
Thando Her effortlessly soaring vocals and joyful performance of original uplifting, heartfelt, soulful R&B songs won me over completely.
Hussy Hicks Any regular visitor to this page has heard me rave about Hussy Hicks before. (e.g.: The Local Lineup; Aussie Women Rock.)
Julz Parker – Hussy Hicks Julz is regularly listed among Australia’s top guitar players, and was voted fifth in the Bluesfest’s Guitar Hero fan poll. Not bad, considering she was pipped by Santana and BB King!
Leesa Gentz – Hussy Hicks Leesa’s vocals loop and soar and give me chills. She also does a little percussion, a little guitar, and a whole lot of smiling.
Ali Foster – Hussy Hicks The newest addition to the Hussy Hicks line-up is drummer Ali Foster. She is having as much fun as the rest of us.
Tracy Bassy and Leesa Gentz – Hussy Hicks Bass guitar and vocals – playing off each other.
Father Parker with Hussy Hicks Guitarist Julz Parker’s father joins the women on stage for a couple of numbers with his harmonica.
Julz Parker and Marshall Okell Byron Bay guitarist Marshall Okell joins Hussy Hicks on stage to duel guitars.
Leesa Gentz In the end, Hussy Hicks always bring the house down.
They can lift you up or break your heart; they can make you smile or have you in tears.
But, our local talents are unlikely to leave you unaffected!
was a great read Greg, you must be a very proud father and from one music father to another as my lad is accomplished lead ax man in darwin. love the page will try to get tickets for nexy years BBBF and maybe will hook up that would be a treat.well done Greg Parker regards Sambo.ReplyCancel
Pueblo Español The Poble Espanyol– the Spanish Village – is a collection of iconic architecture from different regions of Spain built on Montjuïc Mountain in Barcelona for the 1929 Universal Exhibition.
Barcelona is unique.
The second largest city in Spain, Barcelona is touted as one of the world’s leading tourist, economic, trade fair, and cultural centres. It is the capital of the semi-autonomous community of Catalonia, a wealthy area of 7.5 million people with its own language and culture and distinct history.
As the regional capitol, Barcelona is central to the ongoing fight for Catalan independence from Spain – a fight whose modern history began in 1922, and more recently resulted in the street clashes leading up to the referendum on October 1st 2017, and the political upheaval following the (failed) declaration of independence on 27 October that same year.
Fortunately, the streets were mostly quiet when we visited in April of 2018 – even though the area was still under Madrid’s direct rule. We did spot locals with large Catalan flags heading to a protest march, but we stayed well away!
What we were able to enjoy was a condensed “tourist’s take” on a fascinating city: merely sampling the food and architecture. We delighted in our evening of tapas and flamenco in the fascinating Poble Espanyol; we thoroughly enjoyed a morning walk along and around Las Ramblas, admiring the wide boulevards and narrow winding laneways, and stopping for crispy fried churros and hot chocolate; and we marvelled at the architectural treasures and oddities on our “included” afternoon bus-and-walking tour.
Join me for a brief look at a culturally rich city.
Seagull Our boat is comfortably docked in Barcelona’s Cruise Port as we wait for the tour buses that will take us out to dinner. (iPhone6)
Barcelona in the Dark I love riding through a strange city after dark – you get impressions of the place without distracting details.
Archway into an Architectural Wonderland Called Pueblo Español in Spanish, Poble Espanyol in Catalan, or Spanish Village in English, this open-air architectural museum comprises 117 full-scale replica buildings representing fifteen of the autonomous communities of Spain.
Inside the Pueblo Español Replicas of the Church of the Carmelites Aragon and the Tower of Uberto, Aragon, nesltle among the other charming buildings atop a winding stairway. Although the Poble Espanyol was intended to be dismantled once the International Exhibition was finished, it’s popularity saved it.
Replica Tower of Uberto, Aragon Today it houses souvenir shops, a museum, a theatre, restaurants, cafes and bars, as well as craft shops and artisans’ workshops. We were there to visit Tablao de Carmen, named for Carmen Amaya, a Barcelona native regarded as the greatest flamenco dancer of all time.
Noemí Ferrer The inside of Tablao de Carmen is cozy and dimly lit as we eat tapas, drink wine, and watch some of the best flamenco artists in the world light up the room …
Feet Stomping … and set fire to the floor. Noemí Ferrer has been dancing in flamenco clubs since she turned four.
Manuel Jiménez Bartolo While definitely originating from the southern region of Andalusia, the relative contributions of Spanish Romani (Gitanos), native Andalusians, Castilians, Moors, and Sephardi Jews to the development of flamenco is a subject of disagreement.
Manuel Jiménez Bartolo Flamenco consists of cante (singing), toque (guitar), baile (dancing), jaleo ( chorus vocalisations and clapping), palmas (handclapping) and pitos (finger snapping).
Manuel Jiménez Bartolo Music director and performer Manuel Jiménez Bartolo demonstrates the passion and control that epitomise flamenco; maturity is thought to be required to adequately convey the duende (soul) of the style.
Ricardo Fernández “El Tete” Born into a gypsy family, young “El Tete” has flamenco in his blood, …
The Youngest Cante … as does this young singer – the child of one of the troupe – who rounds out our evening.
Agència Estatal d’Administració Tributària The next morning, maps in hand, we walked past the Catalan State Agency for Tax Administration as we left our Port Vell dock behind …
Maritime Museum … and continued past the Maritime Museum, housed in what was the royal arsenal of Barcelona, where ships were built between the thirteenth and eighteenth centuries. The palm trees attest to the Mediterranean climate, and the distinctive Taxi Ecològic cars are – of course – hybrids.
Building Ornamentation Beautiful old buildings have been re-purposed to house modern conveniences, like corner shops and pharmacies.
La Rambla The broad, tree-lined pedestrian street La Rambla is almost empty as we start down its length.
Jardí de la Casa Ignacio de Puig Paved streets branch off to the right, into the Barri Gòtic (or Gothic Quarter).
Polisia There is a visible police presence everywhere.
Dark Corridors The passageways honeycomb through the buildings …
Carrer d’Hercules … and under archways, …
Bride, Groom and Bicycles in Plaça Sant Jaume … coming out upon unexpected sights!
Basílica dels Sants Màrtirs Just i Pastor In the next square over, a homeless man reads his book on the steps of a Gothic church dating back to 1342.
Bronze Cowboy We stop to enjoy crispy fried churros dipped in rich hot chocolate sauce, before returning to our boat – pausing to wonder at some of the curious street performers who have come out.
Mirador de Colom Of course, we have to note Christopher Columbus, high against the late morning sky, where he points south-southeast towards some unknown destination.
Principality of Catalonia on the Mirador de Colón The 60 metre-tall monument to Columbus stands on a beautiful octagonal pedestal, decorated with tributes to people related to Columbus and other luminaries, illustrations of some of Columbus’ first voyages, and representions of the four Spanish kingdoms.
Cathedral of Barcelona After lunch, we head out on on a group walking and bus tour …
Guitarist … with our first stop at the Gothic Cathedral of Barcelona.
Spires of the Catedral de la Santa Creu i Santa Eulàlia This beautiful building was constructed across the thirteenth to fifteenth centuries.
Inside the Cathedral The interior of the cathedral is ornately beautiful.
Madonna
Casa Batlló Spanish architect Antoni Gaudí i Cornet is known as the greatest exponent of Catalan Modernism. From the bus, it was difficult to fully appreciate Casa Batlló, considered to be one of his masterpieces.
Casa Milà Many of Gaudí’s unique and idiosyncratic buildings are located in Barcelona; from our tour bus, we a got glimpse of Casa Milà: the last private residence he designed.
The Casa de les Punxes Gaudí is not the only Spanish architect who has left is mark on Barcelona: the city is dotted with quirky buildings, including this modernist take on a medieval castle designed by Josep Puig i Cadafalch.
Arco de Triunfo The Arc de Triomfdesigned for the 1888 Barcelona World Fair by another Catalan architect, Josep Vilaseca i Casanovas, brings us back to earth as we rejoin our boat and prepare to leave the city behind.
In spite of all safety warnings, I was one of two people on our boat whose wallets were stolen somewhere around the Cathedral. This causes all kinds of problems when you are travelling by sea, and left me with (temporary) negative feelings about the city.
But, it’s a fascinating and beautiful place – and I’d go back and explore it properly if I had the chance.
[…] was the last stop of a two-week cruise around the edges of Europe, starting in Barcelona (see: In the Land of Flamenco and Gaudí). Unfortunately, my husband was called back to Australia, and had to disembark at our penultimate […]ReplyCancel
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
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We’ll return to these tribal villages again.
[…] several visits to a large village not far from my accommodation in the market town of Turmi (see: Hamar Village and Hamar Faces). I was travelling with photographer Ben McRae as part of a small-group Piper […]
[…] made several trips to a large Hamar village not far from our accommodation (see: Hamar Village, Hamar Faces, and Hamar Portraits). This was to be our last session with the tribe before we headed […]
[…] the beautiful Omo Valley, where our base was in Turmi. Over the next days, we visited Hamar (e.g.: Visit to a Hamar Village, Face in a Hamar Village; Hamar Village Portraits; and Morning Portraits), Daasanach (see: A Visit […]