Portrait: Hamar Man, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Hamar Man
The Hamar people of Ethiopia’s Omo Valley carry themselves with a regal bearing, and meet strangers with a clear and direct gaze.

It is hot, and arid, and a long way from anywhere.

The harsh environment is at least part of the reason why the 16+ ethnic groups who live in the far reaches of Ethiopia’s Omo Valley, near the border with South Sudan, have been left alone to maintain their traditional lifestyles and cultural practices. 

One writer has called the Omo Valley a “cultural melting pot”, but this is misleading. They have not blended or melted: their cultures have stayed as sharply differentiated from ours – and from those of each other – as shards of coloured glass. While they are predominantly pastoralists, or agro-pastoralists, who value their livestock (mostly cattle, goats and sheep) above all else, each tribe has their individual traditions, clothing styles, and customs. More importantly, each ethnic group has its own defined territory in the Southern Nations, Nationalities, and Peoples Region (SNNPR) of Ethiopia and speaks its own language – with linguistic roots in one of three distinct language families.

The Hamar are among the most recognisable of these tribal groups: as I’ve said previously (A Visit to a Hamar Village), they are a tall and good-looking people. The women decorate their hair with ochre-butter, and wear shell-beaded goat-skin bibs for special occasions; the men wear distinctive feathered clay caps, and carry their small wooden stools/pillows with them as they go about their business – often with an AK47 slung over one shoulder; and all: men, women and children, wear multiple strands of colourful beads.

I visited the Hamar people on a number of occasions with photographer Ben McRae, as part of a small-group Piper Mackay Photo-Tour. These environmental portraits are from a village near the market town of Turmi where we participated in the “pay-per-click” photo-tourism common in the Omo Valley: the tribes here trade on their distinctive appearances to supplement their incomes.

In theory, this is a win-win system: we visitors pay for the privilege of making photographs. In practice, I found it extremely transactional: it was hard to have natural interactions with the local people when they were making sure we didn’t ‘sneak’ any unpaid shots of cows or fences. I felt like I was collecting ‘head shots’ rather than making connections or gaining any real insight into people’s lives. 

But, I tried.

Come meet some Hamar people.

Portrait: Hamar woman with an infant, Omg Valley Ethiopia

Mother and Child
The family compound of round, woven houses is surrounded by a simple wooden fence. The mothers – in their blankets and beads – are proud to show off their babies. Naturally, we pay extra for the children in the photos!

Portrait: Hamar woman, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Hamar Woman
The metal necklaces on this woman tell us she is married; men can have as many wives as they can afford – payed for in goats, cattle and guns.

Portrait: Hamar woman, Omo Valley Ethiopia

A First Wife
This woman wears a burkule or binyere: a leather and metal necklace with a large cylindrical detail on the front. This indicates she is her husband’s “first wife”: a position of status in the community.

Portrait: Hamar woman with an infant, Omo Valley Ethiopia

First Wife and Child
Infants and toddlers are everywhere. Up until recent times, children with perceived physical abnormalities were judged to be Mingi, or ritually impure, and were killed or abandoned to die.

Portrait: Hamar woman, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Young Woman with Attitude
These women seem to have such confidence, …

Portrait: Hamar woman, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Young Hamar Woman
… and face the camera win an insouciance that is enviable!

Portrait: Hamar man, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Young Hamar Man
Traditional hairstyles take a variety of forms, …

Hamar man in a t-shirt with a gold watch on it, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Man with a Watch and a Stick
… but it is the outfits …

Hamar man in a Tommy Hilfiger t-shirt and beads, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Tommy Hilfiger and Beads
… that truly give pause.

Portrait: Hamar man in a Tommy Hilfiger t-shirt and beads, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Layered Beads and a Close Shave
Patterned head-shaving is popular, and if I were to go back to the region, I’d take spare razor blades, as they are highly valued.

Young Hamar man in a blanket skirt, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Blanket and Attitude

Hamar woman carving a gourd, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Traditional Goatskin Smock

Portrait: Hamar woman carving a gourd, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Woman Carving a Gourd
Everyone has something to do: this married woman in a traditional goatskin smock is preparing a gourd which will probably be used to contain coffee.

Hamar child with an infant, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Child with a Child
As is the case in many traditional communities, children often care for their younger siblings.

Portrait: Young Hamar girl in profile, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Young Girl in Profile
This adorable young girl was raking in the cash; …

Portrait: Young Hamar girl smiling, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Young Hamar Girl
… she has an infectious smile, and we all wanted her picture!

Portrait: Hamar Man, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Hamar Man in Profile
I’m in awe of those chiselled cheekbones! It’s hard to know where the sculpted hair stops and the feathered clay cap begins; …

Portrait: Back of Hamar Man

Man’s Cap
… traditionally, men wear painted clay caps which are decorated with precious feathers and other ornaments.

Portrait: Hamar woman, Omo Valley Ethiopia

First Wife
A ‘first’ and chosen wife, in her heavy – and heavily symbolic neck adornments – …

Hamar first wife in traditional dress, Imo Valley Ethiopia

Hamar Woman 
… shows us her goatskin clothes: richly decorated with colourful beads …

Hamar first wife in traditional dress, Imo Valley Ethiopia

In Full Dress
… and cowry shells – which symbolise womanhood, fertility, birth, and wealth.

Portrait: Hamar woman, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Uncompromising Young Woman
These women have strength! They look into the camera with no compromise.

Portrait: Young Hamar Girl, Omo Valley, Ethiopia

Those Eyes!
This young girl (whose picture I have shared before), on the other hand, had such large, emotive eyes, she made me think of those dreadful velvet paintings of large-eyed-children with teardrops that were so popular in my youth.

I’ve left a lot of ‘background’ in my shots because I want to convey some of the dusty, hot  environment in which these people live. 

But, I don’t for a moment pretend I understand how they do it! I can only hope I left more than I took.

Until next time,

Happy Wandering!

Pictures: 16October2018

Man in a Red Turban
India is a feast of colours and impressions. Everywhere you go, people in brightly dyed fabrics sit in contrast against roughly painted or wash-tinted walls – as if they are just waiting for random street-photographers to appreciate them.

I just love the photogenic faces of India!

So much of Indian life happens in the streets and public spaces. As a foreigner, wandering around  – either alone, or in the company of a guide or group – I have always found that my cameras and I are welcomed into that street life. I meet the eyes of strangers, and they acknowledge me and my desire to make their picture; sometimes they want to see the result on the digital display on the back of the camera, but most of the time, we just exchange a laugh and a thumbs-up, or a namaste of thanks. Some people indicate they are reluctant or unwilling to be photographed – a sentiment I completely understand, and naturally, respect – but in India, that doesn’t happen that often.

It has been ages since I’ve spent time in India. My last small-group visit, with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours, and local guide DV Singh Jagat, included the annual autumn Camel Fair in the Northern Indian town of Pushkar (see: Faces at the Camel Fair, and Among the Camels and Horses). Pushkar Lake has attracted pilgrims at least as far back as the 2nd Century BC. Today, the lake is registered as sacred, and is ringed by Hindu temples, Sikh gurdwaras, and 52 bathing ghats.

The start of the Camel Fair and the Hindu observance of Prabodhini Ekadashi are determined by the Hindu calendar, taking place on the 11th lunar day of Kartik – which usually coincided with November on the Gregorian calendar. The town and the adjacent fair grounds are filled with crowds of religious pilgrims, animal-traders, entertainers, touts, merchants, and international tourists (see: Street Scenes in Pushkar).

Most of the international tourists are like me: travelling alone or in small groups with big cameras, and are there for the life and the colour.

Seated Hindu Sadu, Pushkar India

Seated Sadu
The life of a Hindu aesthetic is relatively simple: what you see here is probably everything this man owns: blankets to sit on and wrap in, a kumbh – or pot – for collecting sacred waters, a copy of the Rama Gita or some other holy text, and a small bag for other assorted toiletries, etc.

People on the Ghats of Lake Pushkar, India

People on the Ghats
Today is Prabodhini Ekadashi – “awakening eleventh” – the day that Vishnu woke up from his four-month sleep over Chaturmas. Ritual observances include chanting, fasting, and bathing in Lake Pushkar.

Indian Woman with a bag on her head, Pushkar, India

Woman in the Crowd
The streets are busy with pilgrims heading to the ghats and temples.

Indian man seated in a Kumbh Shop, Pushkar

Salesman in a Kumbh Shop
During the Pushkar Fair period, a ritual bath in the lake is said to lead to salvation. Hindu faithful also carry water home with them: often buying special containers, or kumbh, for the purpose.

Man in Prayer Beads, a Blazer and a yellow turban, Pushkar India

Prayer Beads and a Blazer
I can’t help but wonder how far some of the pilgrims have walked carrying their kumbhs.

Two sadhus walking in the Streets of Pushkar India

Sadhus on the Road
The different styles of sadhu are fascinating to watch as they make their way into town.

Sadhu profile Portrait, Pushkar India

Sadhu Portrait

Two Indian men Cooking Street Food, Pushkar

Cooking Street Food
The streets are lined with fresh food …

Sequinned textiles for sale, Pushkar India

Sequinned Textiles
… and colourful goods.

Women in Colourful Dupatta in a jewellery stall, Pushkar India

Colourful Dupatta
Women in red headscarves check out the jewellery on offer in stalls alongside the road.

Three Indian women in ghoonghats, Pushkar

Pilgrim Women
Friends find places to sit and rest on their walk into town.

Older Indian a Woman in a Blue blouse, Pushkar

Older Woman in Blue

Indian Woman with a Young Boy, Pushkar

Woman with a Young Boy

Older Indian a Woman in a red headscarf, Pushkar

Woman in Pink and Red

Indian Women squatting roadside with baskets of radishes, Pushkar

Selling Vegetables
Roadside vendors clump into groups, where the conversation is as important the sale.

White stylised mannequins, Pushkar India

Mannequins
The shop-front mannequins seem strangely out of place.

Indian women in colourful saris, Pushkar

Street Colours
The streets are full of colour as pilgrims make their way …

Indian child looking over his father

Child in the Crowd
… through the crowded streets …

Outside Gau Ghat
… and into Pushkar’s most important bathing ghat.

Indian woman with a Head Load, Pushkar street

Woman with a Head Load
Even though the pilgrims keep coming, …

Indian woman in a pink sari seated on steps, Pushkar India

A Moment’s Respite
… there are moments of quiet reflection, …

Indian man in a red turban, Pushkar

Heat and Smiles
… and there is always time for a smile.

Indian woman in a crowd of saris, Pushkar

Face amid the Saris
Between the ghats and the fairgrounds, the crowds continue.

Old sadhu walking in the Streets of Pushkar India

Old Sadhu

Indian women and children drinking masala chai, Pushkar

Women at Tea Shop
I love masala chai! An open-air teashop just outside the fairgrounds provides me with a good opportunity to stop, …

Indian woman in a pink sari, Pushkar

Woman in a Pink Sari
… chat with the women, …

Woman in a Marigold Sari
… and raise a cup of chai.

Hot, sweet, rich, masala chai

Sign-Off-NamasteAs hot as the streets, as rich as the colours, and as sweet as the welcoming smiles.

That’s India!

Namaste

Pictures: 13November2013

A camel, a Bedouin tent, tumbled ruins, and pyramids on the horizon, Giza Egypt

A Camel and the Pyramids
What could be more iconic? A camel in the heat-haze of the desert, a Bedouin tent, tumbled ruins, and pyramids on the horizon!

There are some sights – no matter how many times they have been shown in photos or on film – that you just have to see for yourself.

Sure, there are stock images online that are taken in better weather conditions and from better angles, and the hosts of travel programs get superior entry and access – but none of that can add up to the amazement and wonder that comes from a first-hand experience.

I’ve just returned from my first foray into the Middle East, where the evidence of human civilisation stretches back millennia. A different archaeological wonder lay around every corner as I walked around locations so laden with ancient historical stories that I felt as if I could hear them in the pulsating heat and smell them in the ubiquitous burning incense.

My first day included the short bus ride from my Cairo hotel to Al-Jīzah on the outskirts of the city. Nothing prepares you for that first sighting of the Great Pyramid of Pharaoh Khufu, rising some 147 meters (481 feet) from the Giza Plateau as it comes into view out of dusty bus windows. I caught my breath and swallowed hard.

Naturally, as we walked around the pyramids – jockeying for position with tourists from all over the globe and firmly refusing camel rides, postcards, and trinkets – we were told the stories of their construction. I’ll give you the short version: roughly 4,500 years ago (some time between 2575 and 2465 BC), they were built – not by slaves, as I was told in Grade 3 Social Studies, but by skilled under-employed farmers during the agricultural low season. Current thinking is that during the annual Nile floods, the populace could not work the lands, but could transport building materials on the rising flood waters, and could construct the massive pyramids and the funereal complexes that surrounded them. Egypt’s pharaohs were expected to become gods and return to their bodies after death, so everything they might need was interred with them, deep in secret rooms where robbers or enemies would presumably not find them.

Of course, we all know how that worked out.

But, raided though they might have been, the tombs themselves still stand: testaments to incredible design and engineering skills, superb logistic organisation, and wonderful artistic ingenuity. Thanks to the Rosetta Stone, which allowed scholars to decipher the hieroglyphs so intricately carved and painted on the interior walls, we have a rich understanding of the lives of the pharaohs and the processes involved in their embalming.

The largest tomb at Giza is the Pyramid of Khufu or Cheops – often called simply The Great Pyramid of Giza – is the oldest of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, and the only one to remain reasonably intact. The whole Giza site comes under UNESCO-World Heritage protection as Memphis (the first Capital of Ancient Egypt) and its Necropolis.

Join me for a glimpse.

View of the Great Pyramid of Giza from the Marriott Mena House, Egypt

View from the Marriott Mena House
It’s as if every period of history is represented! Once the site of an old hunting lodge set on 16 hectares of gardens, Mena House in Giza first opened to the public in 1886. Photographs of screen stars, presidents and princesses who have visited sit in a case in the elaborate drawing room of this oId stone palace, and I could well imagine Hercule Poirot sitting under the elaborate gas chandelier, looking out over the manicured lawns and the Great Pyramid.

Tourists on the entry to Giza, Egypt

Entering Giza
It is barely eight o’clock on an October morning, but the sun is already high, the light is blinding, and the heat bounces off the stones, both old and new.

Visitors climbing over the lower levels of the Tomb of Pharaoh Khufu or Cheops, Giza Egypt

Exploring the Tomb of Pharaoh Khufu or Cheops
With the Robbers’ Tunnel entrance – excavated by workers employed by the Caliph al Ma’mun, a ninth century Arab governor of Cairo – overhead, visitors clamber over the lower levels of the Great Pyramid of Giza.

Woman in red on the stones of the Tomb of Pharaoh Khufu or Cheops, Giza Egypt

Take my Portrait!
All over the giant stones, each weighing 2.5 tonnes, …

People checking their photos on the stones of the Tomb of Pharaoh Khufu or Cheops, Giza Egypt

Check out my Selfie!
… people share pictures of their experience.

An Egyptian guide talking to his group, Giza.

Walid Explains
Our guide is passionate about his country’s history and culture, and enthusiastically explains how the pyramids were built.

The rough edges of the ancient stones making up the Great Pyramid of Giza, Egypt.

Rough Stones
The ancient stones were once covered by polished limestone casing stones which would have been smooth and gleaming, shining white in the sun.

Roadway to the Pyramid of Pharaoh Khafre, Giza Egypt

Pyramid of Pharaoh Khafre
The limestone capping remains on the top of the smaller Pyramid of Khafre, …

Pyramid of Pharaoh Khafre, Giza Egypt

Pyramid of Pharaoh Khafre
… giving us a good idea how glorious they all must have looked.

Bedouin walking in the road, Giza Egypt

People in the Street
As well as visitors from all around the world, there are locals, in traditional dress, walking around the site.

Dog at the Pyramid of Pharaoh Khafre, Giza Egypt

Dog at the Pyramid of Khafre
The skinny dogs are dwarfed by the giant stones.

Egyptian official on the back of a camel, Giza

Camel-Back Official
There is a visible security and police presence.

Man on horseback leading horses and camels, Giza

Leading the Animals
Camels and ponies are available for hire.

Pony-hawker and tourists in front of the Pyramid of Khafre, Giza Egypt

In Front of the Pyramid of Khafre
Tourism in Egypt is still in decline following the Arab Spring and the 2011 Egyptian Revolution, and many touts and guides are struggling to make a living.

The Pyramids of Khafre and Menkaure, Giza Egypt.

Pyramids of Giza
The Pyramid of Khafre and the smaller Pyramid of Menkaure float in the heat haze.

Camel on the sand at Giza, Egypt

Camel at Giza
Camels wait for riders …

Camels train at Giza, Egypt

Camels at Giza
… while some get lucky. (iPhone6)

Cairo in the Haze from Giza Egypt

Cairo in the Heat Haze
Behind us, the massed high-rises of Cairo disappear into the smog.

Camel and rider in front of the Pyramid of Khafre, Giza Egypt

Camel and Khafre
To me, the camels define the scene.

Mastaba of Seshemnefer IV, Giza Egypt

Mastaba of Seshemnefer IV from the Bus
Not all of the tombs are for pharaohs; this one is for Seshemnefer IV, who was Head of the Royal Harem up until about 2340 BC.

Ponies and the Pyramid of Pharaoh Khafre behind a fence, Giza Egypt

Pyramid, Ponies, and Patterns

Head of the sphinx, Giza Egypt

Perspective is Everything!
Giza is home to the enigmatic sphinx. 

Head of the sphinx, Giza Egypt

Inscrutable
With the body of a lion, the sphinx’s head was thought to be modelled on Pharaoh Kafre, but the monolith – carved from limestone bedrock – is giving up no secrets.

Giza and the Sphinx
If you are not careful with your camera angles, the relatively small (20 m (66 ft) high) sculpture is dwarfed by the massive pyramids behind it.

What an extraordinary introduction to Egyptian mystery and history.

Walking among structures that have stood for so long was simply awe-inspiring.

And it wasn’t even lunch time!

Happy Travels

Pictures: 06October2019

White buildings of Mijas against the hills and sky, Spain

Red, White, Green, and Blue
Whitewashed walls, red or brown tiled roofs, green mountain shrubbery, and the blues of the Mediterranean sky: the mountains of Andalusia in Southern Spain are known for their charming Pueblos Blancos or White Villages.

The literature we had been sent called the town of Mijas ‘the most charming and picturesque Andalusian village of the Costa del Sol’. They had me convinced with their picture of tiny whitewashed houses lining a steep, narrow staircase, decorated with wrought iron and hanging pots of geraniums; the idea of a stop for churros con chocolate in one of the many coffee shops was just a bonus!

In the mountains of Andalusia, there are a number of picturesque towns collectively known at the Pueblos Blancos or White Villages. We had a day docked in the Spanish coastal city of Málaga (see: Málaga – Costa del Sol) and took the opportunity to make the short bus trip into Las Alpujarras – as the mountains on the south slopes of the Sierra Nevada are called – to spend the afternoon in Mijas Pueblo. This traditional hillside village is nestled on the mountainside about 430 metres (1,476 feet) above sea level, overlooking the Costa del Sol.

The town dates back to prehistoric times, and boasts artefacts from the ancient Greeks and the Phoenicians. It came under the rule of Rome, the Visigoths, and later, the Moors – who ruled Andalucia for centuries before being conquered by the Catholic Monarchs in 487.

In the past, Mijas relied on agriculture, fishing, and some farming and mining for its livelihood, before turning to tourism in the 1950s. Today, the commercial centre of Mijas and the tourist centre of Mijas Pueblo have a symbiotic relationship as separate entities.

As is the case in many of the Pueblos Blancos, the Mijas local council enforces the regular whitewashing of all buildings to protect the tourism and heritage value. Historically, the whitewash mixture (lime, water, chloride, and white cement) was used to keep the houses cooler in summer and to repel insects.

It is a pleasant walk around the town – although with the meandering network of small streets, we kept getting lost! In many places, there are magnificent views back over the countryside and to the coast, which has earned the town the nickname: “Mirador de la Costa del Sol or “Viewpoint of the Costa del Sol.”

Come for a walk:

Town logo on a white wall, Mijas Tourism Office, Spain

Mijas
Say no more! The colourful town name on the promotional literature, and on the wall outside the Tourism Office, tells the visitor this is a lively place that doesn’t take itself too seriously.

Andalusian Donkeys at a

Andalusian Donkeys
The Asno Andaluz or Andalusian Donkey is the oldest European breed of domestic donkey, native to this general area. Today, they are rare – except here in Mijas, where they have progressed from working the fields and local mines, to becoming a tourist attraction.

Andalusian Donkeys at a

Paseo Burro – Donkey Taxi
Mijas Pueblo donkeys are as infamous as they are famous: animal rights activists have agitated over the years to improve the situations of these sweet little animals. We were lucky to not see any overburdened by overweight riders, and were pleased to see most of them were shaded as they waited for work.

Chapel of the Virgin of the Rock, Mijas Pueblo Spain

Chapel of the Virgin of the Rock
Excavated into the rocks around 1548 by Mercedarian friars, the Chapel of the Virgin is a monastery and Catholic holy site.

Entry to the Chapel of the Virgin of the Rock, Mijas Pueblo Spain

La Ermita de la Virgen de la Peña de Mijas
The chapel is tiny …

Inside the Chapel of the Virgin of the Rock, Mijas Pueblo Spain

Inside La Ermita de la Virgen de la Peña
… but richly decorated, and with precious relics.

Jesus statue above the Chapel of the Virgin of the Rock, Mijas Pueblo Spain

Jesus and the Bell
Outside, Jesus of the Sacred Heart stands over the chapel.

Men exchanging money for nuts outside the Chapel of the Virgin of the Rock, Mijas Pueblo Spain

Buying Fresh Nuts
In the chapel courtyard, local nuts are for sale.

Water pump outside the old mill, Mijas Pueblo Spain

Water-Powered Mill
Outside the old flour mill, a water mill has been restored …

Antiguo Molino de Harina – Old Flour Mill
… and the ancient stone walls are decorated with plants.

Tourists and souvenir shops on a Mijas Pueblo street, Spain

Mijas Street
Paved and cobbled streets lined with boutiques, coffee shops, restaurants, souvenir outlets, and residences meander off in all directions.

Mijas Pueblo Street, Spain

Mijas Street
The narrow streets are steep, and full of stairs and tourists, …

Mijas Pueblo Street, Spain

Mijas Stairs
… but the whitewash and hanging flowers make everything bright and cheerful.

Archway into a stairway, Mijas Pueblo, Spain

Courtyards
There are shops and restaurants to discover around every corner.

Colourful Pottery in Mijas, Spain

Pottery in Mijas
Brightly coloured ceramic pottery hangs from artisan’s walls. (iPhone6)

Mijas Pueblo Street, Spain

Wrought Iron and Plant Pots
The parish church of Iglesia Inmaculada Concepción sits atop a hill on the horizon.

Courtyard, Mijas Pueblo, Spain

Mijas Courtyard
The local residents must stay very fit with all the stairs!

Red Callistemon against a whitewashed building, Mijas Spain

Callistemon
Colour is everywhere.

Fountain Plaza de la Constitución, Mijas Pueblo, Spain

Fountain Plaza de la Constitución

White buildings of Mijas against the hills and sky, Spain

Andalusian Hills
New developments stretch out across the hills – but, they must conform to the rules of colour!

View over a Mijas Pueblo restaurant to the Mediterranean, Spain

Mijas Panorama
From one vantage point, we can look across the 10 kilometres to the sea – and beyond.

Bronze donkey statue, Mijas Pueblo, Spain

Bronze Statue
Mijas pays tribute to the role that donkeys have had in its history: outside the Tourist Office, a statue of a donkey – designed by local artist, Lázaro Cruz Jaime and financed by the local Lions Club – takes pride of place.

Andalusian Horse in harness, Mijas Pueblo, Spain

Andalusian Horse
As a horse-lover, I dreamed of Andalusians as a child. I was thrilled to see them in their native home, where they have been recognised as a distinct breed since the 15th century.  Such magnificent animals – and much daintier than I expected.

Andalusian Horse in harness, Mijas Pueblo, Spain

Andalusian Horse
I was pleased I had a bit of fruit in my bag to share with this beauty.

Andalusian Donkeys
It’s a quiet afternoon, tourist-wise …

Man leading two Andalusian Donkeys, Mijas Pueblo, Spain

Man and his Donkeys
… and the donkeys are taken back to their small pens for the night. International pressure has forced the council to keep a closer eye on the handling and care of these donkeys, but there is still room for improvement!

As the donkeys went home for the night, we filed back onto our bus to head back to our boat in Málaga harbour, where we would set sail for the next port on our agenda …

Text: Safe Sailing

Until next time,

Happy Sailing!

Pictures: 17April2018

Closeup: Golden Silk Orb-Weaver, Crane Point, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Golden Silk Orb-Weaver – Nephila
Surrounded by mangrove jungle and clumps of native hardwoods, where the only sounds are the buzz of the tropical insects, the thrum of the heat, and the lapping of distant waves, we come across a beautiful resident of Marathon Key, Florida.

On a long, circuitous drive that my husband and I made around the United States, we managed to hit the southernmost point of Key West (see: Mile Zero and Hemingway’s Cats). As much as I would have loved to stay in that delightful, laid-back island-city, it was far too expensive! A motel room in the city of Marathon, just 80 kilometres (50 miles) north, in the middle of the Florida Keys, was about half the price, allowing us to indulge in guilt-free mahi-mahi dinners as the sun went down.

The city of Marathon takes in 13 islands, or ‘keys’ in the term coined by the Spanish, from the word ‘cayo’ meaning ‘small island’ in the language of the Taino Indians of Hispaniola. Marathon is a major sport-fishing destination, known for its beaches and reefs, and popular for deep-sea, reef or flats fishing. We are not fisherman, and didn’t have the time or inclination to scuba dive or snorkel, so a morning walk around the Crane Point Museum and Nature Center on Grassy Key seemed like an ideal option.

Crane Point is considered special because it is one of the last untouched ‘tropical hardwood hammocks’ in the Keys. A ‘hammock’ is a closed-canopy forest in Southern Florida, and predominantly made up of evergreen and semi-deciduous trees and shrubs originating in the West Indies. Hammocks are important habitats for wildlife and many West Indian plant species. They are under threat from invasive plants, feral animals, and – especially in the Keys – land development. Crane Point was saved from being developed into proposed private homes and shopping malls when it was bought in 1989 by the Florida Keys Land Trust, a not-for-profit conservation organisation.

The oldest home in the Keys – outside of Key West – is here in the woods. In 1903, George and Olivia Adderley, Bahamian immigrants, built their family home using tabby, a concrete-like material made by burning conch and other shells to make lime, and then mixing this with water, sand, ash and broken shells. This historic building has been renovated and is open to view. The Adderley’s lived a hard but simple life here, eking a living by making charcoal, and selling sponges they collected in the reefs off the Keys.

Crane Point is named for Francis and Mary Crane, keen conservationists and horticulturalists who bought the property in 1949. They built their home on neighbouring Big Rachel Key, linking the two with a causeway. They worked to preserve the hammock, enhancing it with flowering exotic trees and shrubs in keeping with the ecosystem.

Today, groomed and managed nature trails wind around the 63 acre property, sampling a thatch palm hammock, a hardwood hammock, a mangrove forest, tidal lagoons and wetland ponds, and accessing the historical George Adderley House, a rehabilitation centre for local wild birds, various museum exhibits, and views over Florida Bay and the Gulf of Mexico.

Join us for a walk:

Entry door, Crane Point Museum and Nature Centre, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Crane Point Museum and Nature Centre
Also known as the Crane Point Hammock Museum and Nature Trail, the centre comprises nature trails, bird aviaries, and historical buildings set on 63 acres of woodland and mangrove: what Florida residents call a “hardwood hammock”.

Florida thatch palm leaves, Crane Point Museum and Nature Centre, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Florida Thatch Palm
As soon as we step out of the entry, we are surrounded by greenery. The Florida thatch palm (Thrinax radiata) is native to many Caribbean islands, Central America, and this part of southern Florida, but grows nowhere else in the United States.

Orange bell flowers a glossy bush, Crane Point, Marathon Key, Florida USA

West Indian Milkberry – Chiococca Alba
Glossy leaves are all around, …

Glossy green vine, Crane Point, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Greenery
… including underfoot.

Pathway into the Woods, Crane Point Museum and Nature Centre, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Pathway into the Woods
The 4 kilometres (2.5 miles) of trails around Crane Point lead through a variety of habitats.

The George Adderley House, Crane Point Museum and Nature Centre, Marathon Key, Florida USA

The George Adderley House
We come across the Adderley’s home in a small clearing. The renovations have left some of the interior stones bare to make the construction methods more transparent.

Wooden Shutter: The George Adderley House, Crane Point, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Storm Shutters
In the absence of glass, rough wooden shutters are the only protection from the elements. You can see how the tabby-mixture is plastered over the stones used to build the house.

Single rocking chair inside the dark George Adderley House, Crane Point, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Inside the George Adderley House
The interior is – unsurprisingly – very simple and very dark.

Explanatory sign and George Adderley House, Crane Point Museum and Nature Centre, Marathon Key, Florida USA

“A True Pioneer”
The Adderley’s were true pioneers – as the sign explains – making charcoal and collecting sponge to trade for the things they couldn’t produce themselves.

Zebra Longwing Butterfly on a firebush, Crane Point Museum and Nature Centre, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Zebra Longwing Butterfly (Heliconius Charitonius)
Alighting on a native-Florida firebush (Hamelia patens), a little zebra longwing butterfly – the official state butterfly – flits in the garden.

Gray Kingbird on a Wire, Crane Point Museum and Nature Centre, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Gray Kingbird (Tyrannus Dominicensis) on a Wire
High overhead, a gray kingbird watches for insects. Widespread in the Caribbean, these birds are regular visitors to the mangrove swamps of south Florida.

Rosy Rat Snake, Crane Point Museum and Nature Centre, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Rosy Rat Snake (Elaphe Guttata Rosacea)

Brown Pelicans, Crane Point Museum and Nature Centre, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Brown Pelican (Pelecanus Occidentalis)
Injured birds are cared for in the Wild Bird Center. It was interesting looking at the brown pelicans – so different from the Australian pelicans on our waters at home.

Western Osprey, Crane Point Museum and Nature Centre, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Caged Western Osprey (Pandion Haliaetus)
It is always sad seeing injured raptors in cages.

Red-Shouldered Hawk, Crane Point Museum and Nature Centre, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Red-Shouldered Hawk (Buteo Lineatus)
Of course, the advantage is that birds in the rehabilitation centre pose for pictures, …

Swallow-Tailed Kite silhouette, Crane Point Museum and Nature Centre, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Swallow-Tailed Kite (Elanoides Forficatus) Overhead
… while the raptors flying free are too fast and too far for me to get crisp shots!

An egret in the waters of Florida Bay, Crane Point, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Off the Coast of Marathon
In a couple of places, we get views back to the city. I love the reminder of how close we are to ‘civilisation’ – and how close this land was to being lost! An egret wades in the waters of Florida Bay.

Mangrove skipper butterfly, Crane Point, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Butterfly in the Mangroves
As we follow the path around the point, we come across a mangrove skipper (Phocides pigmalion), …

Motor Boat on the waters off the Crane Point, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Boat off the Keys
… and another opening in the mangroves giving us views over the water: this time, towards the Gulf of Mexico.

White blossom of a Jamaica Caper, Crane Point, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Jamaica Caper (Capparis Cynophallophora)

Mangrove Forest, Crane Point, Marathon Key, Florida USA

‘Mangrove’
‘Mangrove’  refers to the salt-tolerant trees and shrubs that live in the tropical coastal intertidal zones. They are critical to reducing erosion and providing safe habitat to fish and other small creatures.

Northern Cardinal, Crane Point, Marathon Key, Florida USA

Northern Cardinal (Cardinalis Cardinalis)
The beautiful song of a male cardinal sees us off when we’ve completed our loop.

It’s a small gem of a spot, and was well worth the stop.

We had a dinner-date in northwest Florida, so, we left Craine Point behind and set off north towards Key Largo.

Until next time,

Happy Wandering!

Photos: 05June2013