Bridge over the Upper Falls, Hocking Hills State Park Ohio USA

Upper Falls
The waterfalls that dot the Hocking Hills State Park are easily accessible via a network of walking trails. The bridge over the Upper Falls is a charming extension of the beautiful cliffs of Black Hand Sandstone either side.

Hocking Hills State Park, in the American state of Ohio, comprises 2,356 acres (9.53 km2) of caves, waterfalls, trees, and hiking trails. The park is known for the dramatic geologic features that, over the aeons, have carved themselves into the surrounding Black Hand Sandstone.

Black Hand Sandstone is the name given to an early Mississippian (about 355 million years old) coarse, sometimes conglomeratic, quartz sandstone. Endemic to Ohio, this massive sandstone rock was named for a location (Black Hand Gorge on the Licking River) rather than for its colour – which ranges from tan to orange. (If you are into geology, the Time Scavengers blog on Black Hand Sandstone includes a wealth of detail and illustrative photos.)

Hocking Hills State Park has over 40 kilometres (25 miles) of hiking trails that criss-cross through six distinctly different natural areas, each featuring magnificent natural sandstone rock formations. The Park itself sits within a larger network of nine State Parks and Nature Preserves, three State Forests, and a National Forest, meaning that visitors are spoiled for choice.

Fortunately, we had the advantage of local knowledge!

My husband and I were visiting relatives living about an hour and a half away from the entrance to the Park. On a lovely summer Sunday afternoon, we strolled around the most popular walk: the 10 kilometre (6 mile) Old Man’s Cave Hiking Trail loop. This is a lovely trail, which includes a lot of steps, but meanders through beautiful hemlock and beech trees, taking in a magnificent landscape of cliffs, caves, and waterfalls. We included a section of the Grandma Gatewood Trail to Cedar Falls, and so were on a portion of the much longer Buckeye Trail, which is in turn, part of two national systems: the North Country Scenic Trail and America’s Discovery Trail.

Join me for a lovely afternoon walk:

Old Man

Old Man’s Cave Trail
From the carpark, our trail winds down through tall trees into a dark gorge …

Stone bridge, Old Man

Stone Bridge over Old Man’s Creek
… that was carved deep through the sandstone by Old Man’s Creek over the millennia.

Lower Falls, Old Man

Lower Falls and Old Man’s Cave
Black Hand Sandstone is made up of almost pure quartz sand and pebbles that is resistant to erosion. The softer middle portions of the rock have weathered more, resulting in recesses and rock-shelter caves all through this area. Brothers Nathaniel and Pat Rayon, came to the region in 1795 and lived in this cave briefly, but the cave was named for the hermit Richard Rowe who lived and died here in the early 1800s.

Lower Falls, Old Man

Lower Falls
It is a beautiful and dramatic landscape of gorges and overhangs; waterfalls are common where the Black Hand Sandstone is exposed.

Moss covered rocks, Old Man

Mossy Rocks

Stone bridge, Old Man

Another Stone Bridge
These old weathered stone bridges help to illustrate how long the park has been popular.

Cedar Falls, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

Cedar Falls
Queer Creek tumbles 15 metres (50 feet) into a pond below. Cedar Falls is the largest waterfall by volume in the Hocking Hills region. Towering eastern hemlocks (not cedars, as the early settlers misidentified them) stretch up all around us.

Tree Roots, Old Man

Roots and Reflections

Stone Bridge on the Buckeye Trail, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

Stone Bridge on the Buckeye Trail

People climbing a stairway, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

Stairs and Pathways
All of the stairways are winding; many are steep.

Caves in the Overhangs, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

Caves in the Cliffs
If you look at the two tiny walkers on the path here, you can get a sense of how massive the cliffs and overhands are, and the height of the stately trees.

People on a stairway, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

More Stairs

Young girl taking a selfie, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

Young Girl and her Selfie
Visitors of all ages take advantage of the beautiful surrounds to take pictures.

Water on a rocky creek bed, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

Patterns in the Rocks
For years, water has worked it’s way into cracks and crevices

Moss and ferns on sandstone rock, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

Moss and Ferns
Moisture and low light along the creek bed promotes the growth of moss and ferns.

Silhouette of a man walking our of a dark tunnel, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

Out of the Tunnel

A-Frame and Step Bridge, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

A-Frame and Step Bridges

Concrete Step Bridge, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

Step Bridge
The stepped bridge on the Old Man’s Cave – Cedar Falls Loop Hike is made of independent concrete pillars with cantilevered platforms attached.

Bridge with green railings, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

Another Bridge
Every bridge we cross is unique and different!

Man and child in front of holes in Black Hand Sandstone, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

Holes in the Rocks
All around us, crevices and caves have been carved into the rocks.

Devil

Devil’s Bathtub
The Devil’s Bathtub is one of the more dramatic features along the Old Man’s Cave Trail: more than one log has been sucked into this vortex over the years!

Two young women in the water under the Upper Falls, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

Under the Upper Falls
Technically, paddling and swimming are not allowed in State Parks, but plenty of people enjoy cooling off at the waterways.

Upper Falls, Old Man

Upper Falls
The Upper Falls are not huge, but they are magically pretty.

An American beech tree with Initials and hearts carved into it, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

Initials on an American Beech Tree
Wherever you go in the world, people feel the need to leave their mark!

"Do Not Enter" tape on a conifer trunk, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

“Do Not Enter”
Some trails are off-limits.

Orange fungus on a conifer trunk, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

Fungus on a Tree Trunk

Water Flume, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

Water Flume
For the sake of our youngest walker, we stopped at the Hocking Hills Gem Mine.

Family sluicing a pan in the water flume, Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio

Panning for Treasures
At the ‘Gem Mine’, rough that has been purchased at the shop can be sluiced using pans that are supplied, …

Child

Arrowhead and Gems
… and flint arrowheads and precious gems can be recovered.

Text: Happy Walking!

We drove home with good memories, lots of photos, a few precious gems, and an ancient flint arrowhead.

Not bad for an afternoon walk in an exceptionally pretty place!

Until next time,

Happy Walking!

Photos: 16June2013

  • cindy stein - August 11, 2020 - 12:50 am

    Love it thereReplyCancel

    • Ursula - August 18, 2020 - 4:05 am

      Thanks for your visit, Cindy. It’s a great place, isn’t it. 😀ReplyCancel

Ray Beadle on guitar in the Kosciusko Room, Thredbo Australia

Ray Beadle in the Kosciusko Room
Is there anything more uplifting than watching a musician who just loves to play? Ray Beadle’s joy is infectious!

We had a rough start to the year in South Eastern Australia. Instead of fire-works and revelry on New Year’s Eve, the sports and school grounds near my house were full of displaced campers, forced north by the East Gippsland fires ravaging coastal Victoria. On what would ordinarily be one of their busiest nights, our pubs closed their doors, and businesses focussed on feeding the evacuees.

Three days later, our whole town shut down. We sat glued to our radios and checked phones and computers regularly for emergency updates. With our cars packed up with anything indispensable, we watched as what was now called the Border Fire continued its relentless march north. The over-whelmed Fire and Rescue Services repeated their warnings that they would work to save lives, but not property.

My plan had been to head west, but then the word came through: more fires, further inland, had swept north, and Kosciuszko National Park was being evacuated of tourists. The planned annual Blues Festival in Thredbo was put on hold as fires licked at the edges of that little alpine community. For another two weeks, we watched helplessly as our country burned.

Finally, only three days before the festival was due to take place, easing fire conditions allowed the National Parks to reopen the Alpine resorts, and the Thredbo Blues Festival was back on. Access to all trails outside of Thredbo’s boundaries remained off limits, so bush walks were off the agenda, but at least the music would go ahead.

A lot of people couldn’t change their plans again at the last minute; friends of mine who were meant to have joined me had made other commitments during the long period of uncertainty.

But I had my Early-Bird weekend pass and needed a smile. So, I pointed my car up the hill, and aimed for the blues music that would make it all feel better.

Misty trees on the road up Brown Mountain, NSW Australia

Up Brown Mountain
After drought conditions and months of fires, we were treated to some rain and mist as I drove up and over the first mountain between me and the High Country. (iPhone6)

Old couple swing dancing, The Pub, Alpine Hotel, Thredbo Australia

Getting the Party Started
On the opening Friday afternoon, the audiences were still thin on the ground – but they were enthusiastic! Psycho Zydeco opened proceedings in The Pub.

Shane Pacey on guitar, Kosciuszko Room, Thredbo Alpine Hotel, Australia

Shane Pacey
Some artists are almost local household names: Shane Pacey is a hard-working musician who I see (and enjoy!) regularly.

Dave Fester on drums, Kosciuszko Room, Thredbo Alpine Hotel, Australia

Dave Fester
The drummer with the Shane Pacey Trio is always fun to watch. In the darkened space of the Kosciuszko Room, it is hard to believe it is still daylight (albeit raining) outside.  These shots are taken on my old Canon 6D with a EF70-200 lens (with no Image Stabilisation!) at 1/400 sec, f 2.8 and ISO 3200, and post-processed in an archaic version of Lightroom.

Richard Perso performing, House of Ullr Thredbo Australia

Richard Perso
After such a long period of tension from the fires, none of us dared complain about the rain. But, I have no doubt the owner of the House of Ullr was pleased that this new “sun room” was finished in time for the festival: last year, this space was open to the elements. We were able to enjoy Richard Perso and his original songs – complete with didgeridoo and guitar accompaniments – in dry comfort while the rain showers came and went outside.

Microphone in front of Jordan Thomas, Lounge Bar, Thredbo Alpine Hotel, Australia

Microphone in Focus
Back in the Lounge BarJordan Thomas and his ‘alternate country and blues’ trio take to the stage.

Portrait: Jordan Thomas and a mike, Thredbo Australia

Jordan Thomas
I was introduced to these guys last year, and was quite taken with their smooth grooves …

Craig Renneberg, Jordan Thomas Trio, Thredbo Australia

Craig Renneberg
… and relaxed double bass.

Drummer with the Swamp Stompers, Thredbo Blues Festival, Australia

Swamp Stompers
Often drummers are left completely in the dark, so I was happy to catch a shot of this one in a patch of light in the Schuss Bar.

Steve Edmonds, Thredbo Blues Festival, Australia

Steve Edmonds Blues Quartet
Eponymous band leader Steve Edmonds is the consummate professional; …

Keyboard - Steve Edmonds Blues Quartet, Thredbo, Australia

Keyboard – Steve Edmonds Blues Quartet
… he and the rest of the band  …

Double Bass - Steve Edmonds Blues Quartet, Thredbo, Australia

Double Bass – Steve Edmonds Blues Quartet
… all have a way of making you feel special.

Steve Edmonds Blues Quartet, Keller Bar, Thredbo Alpine Hotel, Australia

Blues in Colour : Steve Edmonds Blues Quartet

Ron King on harmonica, The Foreday Riders , Thredbo Australia

Ron King
The Foreday Riders have been playing blues for over 50 years. Ron King is one of the founding members.

Jeff King on guitar, The Foreday Riders , Thredbo Australia

Jeff King
Brother Jeff King is the other founding member.

Stan

Stan ‘Sleepy’ Mobbs – Foreday Riders

Detail: Eucalyptus Bark, Thredbo Australia

Eucalyptus Bark
A break in the rain on Saturday allowed us to enjoy some time outdoors, even if most of the walking tracks were closed.

Psycho Zydeco, Village Square, Thredbo Australia

Psycho Zydeco
In the Village Square, Psycho Zydeco kicked things off, …

Grace and Hugh, Village Square, Thredbo Australia

Grace&Hugh
… followed by Grace and Hugh

Hands on a grand piano keyboard, Village Square, Thredbo Australia

Grace&Hugh
… and the half-tonne grand piano that tours with them.

Swamp Stompers, Thredbo Blues Festival, Australia

Corey Legge
Meanwhile, the Swamp Stompers take to the stage in the open-air Alpine Bar.

Swamp Stompers, Thredbo Blues Festival, Australia

Luke Ligtenberg
When Swamp Stomper Luke isn’t singing into his unique didgeridoo, …

Swamp Stompers, Thredbo Blues Festival, Australia

Swamp Stompers
… he’s kicking up his heels with the audience.

Tyrone Vaughan

Tyrone Vaughan’s Guitar
Tyrone Vaughan grew up with impeccable musical credentials in Austin, Texas. Truthfully, I was as much in awe of his turquoise jewellery as his guitar chops.

CJ Raggatt performing, Apré Bar, Thredbo Australia

CJ Raggatt
In the over-crowded Apré Bar …

CJ Raggatt performing, Apré Bar, Thredbo Australia

Double-Neck Guitar
CJ Raggatt shows off a double-neck guitar of his own design.

8 Ball Aitken, Kosciuszko Room, Thredbo Alpine Hotel, Australia

8 Ball Aitken
Australian singer, songwriter, and slide guitarist 8 Ball Aitken plays his own take on Louisiana swamp music.

George Washingmachine and Ray Beadle, Kosciuszko Room, Thredbo Alpine Hotel, Australia

The Blues in Full Colour
Ray Beadle, who was featured on George Washingmachine’s Blues Rinse LP, joins him on stage. They are all having too much fun!

19-Twenty, Kosciuszko Room, Thredbo Alpine Hotel, Australia

19-Twenty
This is another group I’ve seen before: the absolutely frenetic crowd-pleasing energy of Kane Dennelly, Syd Green, and John Gwilliam is hard to capture.

Detail: CJ Raggatt

CJ Raggatt on Slide Guitar

Ray Beadle, Kosciuszko Room, Thredbo Alpine Hotel, Australia

Ray Beadle Band
I finally got to see Ray Beadle, who had been performing all weekend with other bands, headlining his own group! He was still smiling.

Liza Ohlback Trio through glasses on a restaurant table, Sante, Thredbo Australia

Liza Ohlback Trio through the Glasses
The venues can make for real challenges in terms of line of sight, lighting, and clarity of sound … (iPhone6)

Liza Ohlback performing Sante, Thredbo Australia

Liza Ohlback
… but the performers make up for it!

Harry Ashton Band, Schuss Bar, Thredbo Alpine Hotel, Australia

Harry Ashton Band
Young Harry Ashton and his band made for a colourful end to my weekend. Some people call the blues ‘simple’ music – and it might be – but in the hands of this Sydney Conservatorium student and his cohort, it is also excellent.

According to a 2016 article in Psychology Today, singing the blues is good for you.

Text: To the Music

As if there was ever any doubt!

I know I felt better.

Until next time,

Keep Singing!

Pictures: 17-19January2020

  • MELISSA MORSE - February 29, 2020 - 1:18 am

    Great set of photos and accompanying story. I’m heartened to see that you were able to keep the tradition alive.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - February 29, 2020 - 7:10 am

      Thanks so much for your ‘visit’ Melissa! Music always lifts my spirits. 😀ReplyCancel

Portrait: young Arbore woman, Imo Valley Ethiopia

Eyes and Earrings
In the unforgiving light of an African morning, a young woman from the Arbore tribe in the Omo Valley allows me (for a price!) to take her picture. I think she is stunning, but neither the harsh light, nor the artificial nature of our interaction, can do justice to her commanding beauty.

Village visits in the Omo Valley in Ethiopia are like nothing I’ve experienced before!

The region is still tribal, and each ethnic group maintains its own customs. What all the tribes have in common is a “pay-per-shot” mentality, meaning that visiting tourists pay for each picture they take. While I see this as entirely fair – after all, why shouldn’t tribal groups trade on their distinctiveness – it does distort the concept of environmental portraiture.

Studio portraits are taken under controlled lighting and precisely edited to produce perfection. At the other extreme, street portraits are candid, and in many instances, taken without the knowledge of the subject. My preferred modus operandi is between these two points: informal people-shots made with permission, but without staging. In the Omo Valley, this was impossible: the pay-per-click mindset meant that photographic subjects were very much actors in their own shots.

And, that is as it should be! I couldn’t help but wonder, however, how much control or self-determination individual tribal members have over the rest of their lives.

These groups fascinate me: the Arbore number less than 7,000, divided across four villages along the Weito (Weyto or Woito) River. Their funeral and marriage ceremonies date back generations, as do their customs of dress, and practices of day-to-day living. Their traditional method of sorghum cultivation depends on seasonal rains and flooding, and they divide and allocate land collectively each season, giving priority to widows, orphans, and the poorest. Wealth is measured by the number of cattle owned by an individual, and this importance is reflected in the tribal name, “Land of the Bulls”: with Ar meaning “bull” and bore meaning “land”.

Unlike their fearsome and aggressive tribal neighbours, the Arbore engage in a wide regional network of exchange of gifts and goods, and get along with their neighbours. They are also protected by a legend that promises a curse if they are attacked!

I guess my questions about these groups are more political than cultural: outside their demand for 10 birr/photo, how much control over their lives do they really have, when ‘culture’ dictates their dress, their hairstyles, and their bodies. Until marriage, Arbore girls shave their heads as an indication of virginity and they are circumcised as a pre-requisite to marriage.

These questions were too big for my short visit! I was with photographer Ben McRae, as part of a small-group Piper Mackay Photo-Tour, and we were all doing our best to have a meaningful engagement – without the benefit of a common language – with these delightful people. I’ve shared some of the pictures I took previously (see: Portraits in an Arbore Village).

Please enjoy a few more:

Portrait: Old Arbore woman, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Old Woman
Once women are married, they keep their hair in tightly plaited corn-rows. Metal earrings are popular.

Armore Woman with animal feed, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Woman with Animal Feed
Everyone knows their place: daily jobs are divided according to age and gender.

Portrait: Arbore Child, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Arbore Child
While we are in the village, the children stick close to their elders. By the colourful beads and shaved head, I’m guessing this is a girl.

Portrait: Arbore Mother and Child, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Mother and Child
The children are curious about us – as long as mum is close by! The women keep a length of black cloth (bleached navy blue-looking by the sun) as a cover against the searing heat.

Portrait: Arbore grandmother, mother and toddler, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Three Generations
Most of the men are probably out with the grazing animals.

Portrait: young Arbore woman, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Beads and Attitude
Arbore women are known for their layers of beaded adornments.

Portrait: young Arbore woman, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Arresting Eyes

Portrait: Arbore man in white head-wrap, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Man in a Head-Wrap
The men commonly wrap a white cloth around their heads. 

Portrait: young Arbore man, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Young Man in a Choker
They, too, love colourful beads and sport unique jewellery: this choker features a metal watch strap …

Back view of a Young Man in an Arbore village, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Young Man from the Back
… and is neatly tied off at the back. 

Portrait: Arbore man with his stick, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Man with his Stick
The men spend a lot of time in the pastures with their animals, which is why they are usually seen with their sticks and their stools.

Arbore woman milking a goat, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Milking the Goat
Goats are central to the Arbore – and naturally, I had to pay extra to include this one in my photo!

Portrait: Arbore Mother and Child, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Young Mother and Child

Portrait: young Arbore woman, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Young Woman

Portrait: Arbore man with his stick and stool, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Old Man
Livestock have a high economic and social value: with a crook and a stool, you are never too old to look after the precious cattle.

Arbore mother and children, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Mother and Kids
All around the kraal, people are gathered in clumps hoping to get their turn in front of the camera’s lens.

Arbore mothers and children, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Arbore Families
The village, with its tall, elegant huts made from reeds and grass, is set against a beautiful backdrop of steep mountains.

Portrait: young Arbore woman, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Young Arbore Wife
People marry young: judging by how long this young woman’s hair is, she has been married quite a while!

Portrait: Old Arbore woman, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Arbore Elder
Mother (or mother-in-law?) is on hand for advice.

Portrait: young Arbore girl, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Young Gniro
I’ve shared pictures of eight-year old Gniro before (see: Portraits in an Arbore Village): I was fascinated by her calm self-possessed manner.

Young Arbore Man with herd of goats, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Young Man and the Goats
My last image as we were leaving the village was of one of the young men with a small herd of goats.

There was a wonderful energy around this village, and the people were warm and welcoming. They consider themselves rich with all their cows and goats.

Text: Happy TravelsIt is hard for me to imagine a way of life more ‘foreign’!

Wishing you the right kind of riches, and

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 17October2018

  • Karl Grobl - February 20, 2020 - 12:45 pm

    Another wonderful set of images, with equally delightful captions, and explanations. I always enjoy seeing your images and reading about your many adventures. Bravo again Ursula! I’m anxious to see what’s next.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - February 20, 2020 - 12:53 pm

      Thank you so much, Karl!
      It is always a joy to share adventures … I’m thinking we’ll cross paths one rainy season … Maybe next year. 😀ReplyCancel

Woman and child with umbrellas in Main Street Batticaloa, Sri Lanka

Shoppers in Main Street, Batticaloa
Every November, the height of the retreating monsoon drops a rainy deluge on the East Coast of Sri Lanka – but everyday life goes on.

“There’s no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing.”
― Alfred Wainwright

After living in the tropics for many years, I should be used to rain.

But, this past week I’ve been trapped indoors as my portion of East Coast Australia has been battened down against heavy rainfall, gale-force winds, and the threat of severe thunderstorms. Some parts of the state had evacuation warnings. The good news was that the dump of water (temporarily) extinguished all the bush fires that had been burning for weeks.

I closed all my windows against driving, slanting rains, and double-checked the whereabouts of batteries and candles in case of power outages. Unable to hear the tv or radio for the noise of passing squalls, I wondered how people in the tropics cope with this sort of weather yearly – and often twice a year.

Somehow, tropical locals take it in their stride. They wear plastic flip-flops that don’t fall apart in puddles and light clothing that dries quickly once the downpours stop. Whether riding bicycles, walking, or driving motorcycles, they carry umbrellas that – magically – don’t seem to turn inside out. Even at the height of rainy season, vendors display products outdoors, dragging plastic awnings or sheeting quickly across shop fronts each time the skies open.

My last experience of monsoonal travel was on the East Coast of Sri Lanka – in a region so low that within 90 minutes of the beginning of the December 2004 tsunami, it was swamped by a wall of water up to 4.7 metres (15 ft) high. This coast has nothing between it and the north-east monsoon that occurs at the end of every year, bringing heavy rains from October through December.

Naturally, the “best time to visit” sits outside the seasonal monsoons, but my travel dates had been organised to conform with other commitments. How bad could it be?

My stay was in November, and – as you would expect from the forecast averages – it rained every day. Unfortunately, it was a particularly wet year, so it also rained most of the day the whole time I was there.

But, you can’t hide out in a room – even a comfortable room – forever.

After checking maps and the internet, I organised with a local tuk tuk driver to go to the area’s main attraction: the ‘famous’ Batticaloa Fort. “Views across the lagoon are magnificent,” enthused the Lonely Planet.

Of course, the Lonely Planet didn’t factor in the rain!

Traditional boat on a rainy Pasikuda Beach, Sri Lanka

Traditional Boat on the Beach
The rains are sporadic, and the weather is temperate-to-warm: …
(iPhone6)

Wet Pasikuda Beach, Sri Lanka

Pasikuda Beach
… so there is no excuse not to walk along the empty beach in the mornings.(iPhone6)

Crows on the high tide line, Pasikuda Beach, Sri Lanka

Crows on the Beach
The wild weather leaves a residue at the high tide mark, and crows explore this for treasures. (iPhone6)

Motor boat on a rainy Pasikuda Beach, Sri Lanka

Boat on the Beach (iPhone6)

Footprints on wet Pasikuda Beach, Sri Lanka

Footprints on the Beach
My tracks are the only ones I see. (iPhone6)

Selfie in the wing mirror of an auto rickshaw, Pasikuda Sri Lanka

Selfie in a Tuk-Tuk
The easiest way to escape a rain-locked resort is to hire a local auto rickshaw. Of course, I found it helpful to check the compendium in my room, and the internet, to explore sight-seeing options before negotiating with three-wheeler drivers – especially as their English can be patchy, and my Sinhala and Tamil are non-existent.

Hindu Temple detail, Batticaloa District Sri Lanka

Temple Grounds
At my tuk-tuk driver’s suggestion, we stop at one of the many Hindu temples in this predominantly Tamil region.

Hindu Temple detail, Batticaloa District Sri Lanka

Hindu Temple
As is the case with most Hindu architecture, the temples here have highly decorative exteriors, covered with layers of carved and painted images of deities.

Hindu priest in a small, dark shrine, Batticaloa District Sri Lanka

Hindu Priest
The temple interior is dark. A priest tends one of the shines …

Woman in a sari inside a Hindu temple, Batticaloa District Sri Lanka

Worshipper
… while a worshipper make her ways around the colourful interior.

Flowers on a step, Hindu temple, Batticaloa District Sri Lanka

Flowers on the Step
Offerings can be found everywhere.

Women walking in a rainy road, Batticaloa District Sri Lanka

Saris in the Rain
Tucked back into my tuk tuk, at least I can stay mostly dry – ….

Schoolgirls walking in a rainy road, Batticaloa District Sri Lanka

Schoolgirls in the Rain
… unlike the poor people walking in the street.

Rainy street scene, Batticaloa District Sri Lanka

Street Scenes
The rain blurs my view as people on bicycles and motorcycles wrestle with umbrellas and raincoats in the road.

Schoolgirls walking in a rainy road, Batticaloa District Sri Lanka

School Girls in White
I can never get my whites that bright!

Hindu temple detail, Batticaloa District Sri Lanka

Hindu Temple
We make a brief stop at another Tamil Hindu temple along the road. While my driver goes to make an offering, …

Smiling young Tamil men, Batticaloa District Sri Lanka

Beautiful Smiles
… I chat with the young men outside.

Sole man on a platform, Batticaloa Railway Station, Sri Lanka

Batticaloa Railway Station
My driver was very keen to show me all around the railway station. It is listed as a ‘must-visit attraction’ on local websites, and while it was clean and tidy, I could find no information explaining what made it particularly noteworthy.

A sculpture of a golden book about Batticaloa Fort, Sri Lanka

A Golden Book
By contrast, the outline of the history of the nearby “Dutch Fort” (built by the Portuguese!) is inscribed in a golden book outside the Batticaloa Fort entrance. As a testament to the colonial history of this region, the original cannon in the background features a Dutch East India stamp.

Batticaloa Fort wall, Sri Lanka

Old Fort Wall
Batticaloa Fort was built by the Portuguese in 1628 …

Batticaloa Fort wall, Sri Lanka

Fortress Corner
… and the surrounding walls are impressive. The rain is still falling, and the fortress grounds are uneven and soggy with long grass.

Batticaloa Fort Watch Turret, Sri Lanka

Watch Turret
Even though the fort sits on one of the many islets off Batticaloa, protected by the Batticaloa Lagoon on two sides and a canal on the other two sides, it was captured by the Dutch in 1638, only ten years after being built.

English cannon, Batticaloa Fort, Sri Lanka

Cannon in the Rain and Mud
From 1745, the fort was used by the British, and an English cannon still looks out towards the Indian Ocean. (iPhone6)

Ruined Bell Tower, Batticaloa Fort, Sri Lanka

Ruined Bell Tower
The remains of the original bell tower rise out of the wet and unruly grass.

Inside the Fort Batticaloa, Sri Lanka

Inside the Fort
Parts of the fort are in reasonable condition …

Inside the Fort Batticaloa, Sri Lanka

Women in the Rain
.. and currently house several government administrative offices.

Portrait Sri Lankan office worker in a sari and long braid, Batticaloa Fort, Sri Lanka

Government Workers
Employees in the administrative offices are not too busy to step outside into the rainy corridors for a chat, a smile, …

Paper boat in a flooded gutter, Batticaloa Fort, Sri Lanka

Floating Boats
… and to race paper boats in the flooded gutters.

Man with a multicoloured umbrella, Main Street, Batticaloa, Sri Lanka

Man in Main Street
The rain continues in Batticaloa

People with umbrellas, Main Street, Batticaloa, Sri Lanka

Main Street
… but the streets are busy with people going about their business.

Motorcycle driver with an umbrella, Batticaloa District Sri Lanka

Motorcycle in the Rain
We start the journey back north. My cameras and I are getting very wet in the back seat of my tuk tuk – the roll-down plastic windows are no match for highway driving! Even so, I feel very fortunate compared with motorcycle riders trying to protect themselves with umbrellas.

Flooded Mangroves, Batticaloa District Sri Lanka

Flooded Mangroves
Mangroves, with their multiple aerial roots, are well adapted to regular flooding.

Bicycle rider with an umbrella, Batticaloa District Sri Lanka

Riding in the Rain

Colourful saris and umbrellas blurring, Batticaloa District Sri Lanka

The Colours of Poetry
The rain and the plastic windows render the street scenes almost abstract, and a favourite line from an Al Stewart song comes to mind: “… in a silk dress running Like a watercolour in the rain …”

After being wet all day, I revelled in a nice hot shower.

Text: Keep smilingAnd, I wondered again how the locals manage it, year after year –

And, they keep smiling!

Until next time …

Pictures: 05November2018

Portrait: Tribal person from Jiwaka Province in traditional costume, Papua New Guinea

Jiwaka Province Tribal Dancer
In the dense jungles of Papua New Guinea’s Western Highlands, tribal warriors are getting ready for a local sing sing. Tropical birds, cuscus paws, and shells feature heavily in the elaborate costumes. 

There are always dilemmas around preserving age-old cultural traditions.

One of the difficulties in safeguarding the unique practices and languages of the many tribal groups in Papua News Guinea is that their ritual dress relies heavily on indigenous birds, plants, and animals.

In times past, the people living in small, relatively isolated clusters in the Papua New Guinea Highlands painted their faces in wild colours and created fantastic headdresses and outfits to intimidate their enemies during the regular deadly skirmishes with neighbouring tribes. Today, these traditional outfits are reserved for the gatherings of dancing and singing known as sing sings. Even so, looking at the wonderfully elaborate and colourful costumes, you’d be forgiven for wondering how any birds or animals on the island survive.

I was travelling with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours and a small group of photography enthusiasts. We had arrived in Mount Hagen for the annual Cultural Show, and were attending the newer, smaller Paiya Village Mini Cultural Show as a bit of a “warm up”. Because the Paiya Village Show is small, and is only ticketed by prior arrangement, it allowed us much greater access to the tribal people who had travelled in – some of them, great distances – as they painstakingly created their extravagant costumes.

With the surfeit of colours, at first I didn’t realise that many of the complex feathered headdresses (bilas) I saw included whole birds. And, with the preponderance of shell necklaces, I didn’t even see the tiny, clawed feet of the slow-moving marsupial cuscus forming the top layer of beads! Hopefully, the rest of the animal was put to good use.

Given the threat that many species are under in Papua New Guinea – especially particular parrots and birds of paradise – it is fortunate that the feathers are so expensive. It takes feathers from multiple birds to craft just one of these headdresses, but rather than making new ones for each occasion, many people attempt to deconstruct the creations and to store the feathers until the next use. To assist in this, the Wildlife Conservation Society of Papua New Guinea has created Bilas Protection Kits which they are trying to distribute as broadly as possible. Other people are working on more sustainable ways of sourcing feathers, including the use of introduced species and dying chicken feathers.

Knowing this made me feel better about enjoying the wild and wonderful adornments sported by the people of the Western Highlands and Jiwaka Provinces as they got ready for their sing sing in Paiya Village.

Portrait: Tribal man from Jiwaka Province in traditional costume, Papua New Guinea

Man in a Feathered Headdress
We arrived in Paiya Village early: it was dark in the jungle, but already hot. The ‘ferocious’ intent of the costuming is belied by this elder’s twinkling smile and diminutive stature. Of course, because of my cultural background, I don’t feel threatened by someone whose bird wings create a profile resembling a gremlin, and whose red nose reminds me of a circus clown.

Portrait: Tribal woman from Jiwaka Province in traditional costume, Papua New Guinea

Woman in Red Feathers
These people are so comfortable within themselves – and with the camera; I, on the other hand, am distressed by the betel damage to everyone’s teeth!

Jiwaka Shell Necklace, Papua New Guinea

Jiwaka Shell Necklace
We are a long way from the sea, but shells are so central to Papua New Guinean culture that they were once the unit of barter. The name of the contemporary local currency, kina, is a coastal language name for the precious pearl shell that was once used for trade all across the country.

Birds in the headdress of a Jiwaka Province, Papua New Guinea

Birds of Paradise
The more you look, the more birds you see! Some of the more favoured ones come only from specific regions of the country and are very expensive – which is a good incentive to care for the headdresses carefully.

Birds in the headdress of a Jiwaka Province, Papua New Guinea

A Milliner’s Dream
Each confection is more wonderful than the last!

Birds in the headdress of a Jiwaka Province, Papua New Guinea

Tribal Warrior
Fur, feathers, and felt: tribal costumes incorporate the lot! 

Tribal Warrior in shells and headdress, Jiwaka Province, Papua New Guinea

Headdress (Bila) Extraordinaire!
In recent years, headdresses have have been incorporated into more modern practices and meanings, and utilise some non-traditional materials.

Portrait: Tribal woman from Jiwaka Province in traditional costume, Papua New Guinea

Jiwaka Woman
You have to be very careful with your posture and movements when wearing your bila.

Western Highland man building his headdress, Papua New Guinea

Preparation
In a another area, a different tribal group are getting ready.

Western Highland man building his headdress, Papua New Guinea

Making his Costume
Affixing the leaves and feathers is a painstaking process …

Western Highland man building his headdress, Papua New Guinea

Man in a Mirror
… and the men are very focussed on their task.

Portrait Western Highland Warrior, Papua New Guinea

Western Highland Warrior
The head coverings that form the base of these headdresses are stitched in the same way as the ubiquitous bilum bags, using something that looks like a tatting hook.

Young Woman in Beads and Shells, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea

Young Woman in Beads and Shells

Tribal dancers from Jiwaka Province in traditional costume, Papua New Guinea

Heading into the Corral
The dancers we have been watching are ready to head into the main fair grounds and meet up with friends from other tribes and villages.

Papuan man, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea

Old Uncle
One of the elders from the village we are in makes his way through the jungle …

Tourists walking through the fields, Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea

The Garden Path
… and we head off in search of more dancers.

I hope these tribal groups can preserve their culture – and safeguard their flora and fauna at the same time.

Until next time,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 18August2017

  • […] performances. I have previously shared pictures of people from Jiwaka Province (see: Feathers Fur and Facepaint) and from Engan Province (see Big Hats and Small Drums) as they got ready for the […]ReplyCancel

  • Meri - October 30, 2023 - 9:23 pm

    Hi Ursula,

    We are a non-for-profit group based in Australia made up of Jiwaka and Hagen women.

    We unknowingly used one of your photographs of the Jiwaka women for our event poster. If you require payment, please advise how we can do so and how much? You have captured beautiful pictures of our women.

    Kind regards
    PNGWASEQ TEAMReplyCancel

    • Ursula - October 31, 2023 - 1:12 pm

      Hi!
      I have emailed you.
      Cheers, UrsulaReplyCancel