.jpg) Paying Respect to Mother Ganga
This is the Rishikesh I remember! The holy Ganges River races out of the Himalayan Foothills, past fairy tale ashrams and colourful gods on the way to the plains of northern India. (iPhone12Pro) Rishikesh is a magical city of fairy tale ashrams and colourful gods. The city sits at an auspicious place, where the Ganges – one of the most sacred rivers to Hindus – flows out of the Himalaya and towards the plains. For me, the city’s name alone is evocative of sitar music, pastel-coloured Hindu temples, meditation, the Beatles, and most of all: yoga.
Rishikesh is routinely called the “Yoga Capital of the World” (eg: Inside Hook). After my first visit there in 2013, I said to myself – and to you – that I would love to escape into one of the many yoga ashrams for a long course of study. Almost a full ten years later, I finally made it back: not for a long course, but for a week-long yoga ‘retreat’.
The ‘retreat’ was attached to a yoga teacher-training centre, and located in the busy suburb of Tapovan, with its steep, narrow winding streets full of dogs, cows, and small children. It was autumn, and I hadn’t factored in the unseasonable heat when I booked a room with a fan (no air conditioning). Sweltering at night, I listened to the cows coughing in the street, and vehicle horns blaring, as cars and motorcycles tried to find their way past each other. I was into my third day there before I had a single class; the ‘retreat’ turned out to be more of a test of patience than a practice of yoga (see: Waiting for the Ganga Aarti).
But, my week included some fascinating excursions – including my favourite: to the Beatles Ashram (Chaurasi Kutia) – and for all the frustrations of dealing with completely disorganised ‘organisers’, I loved it.
Join me:
.jpg) Rishikesh Street-Scene
Through the window in the reception area of my hotel, I watched the bustling street, and thought to myself that this is not like any ‘retreat’ I’ve experienced! (iPhone12Pro) .jpg) Garden at my Home for the Week
My simple room came with a fan, which I soon discovered was no match for the unseasonable 35°C (95°F) night-time temperatures!
(iPhone12Pro)  Rishikesh Roof Tops
It was no cooler early next morning when I got ready for an excursion into the hills. (iPhone12Pro) Hindu Temple in the Middle of Nowhere
I was told to arrive at 7am, so I did. The bus didn’t leave until 7:30. It wound it’s sickening way up mountain hairpins for almost two hours before we we stopped at Itharna Temple in Gadool, a Shiva temple of some local importance. (iPhone12Pro) Temple Bells
I’m always happy to ring a bell – which announces one’s presence and intent, and focuses the mind – even though half my attention was on the lack of breakfast!
(iPhone12Pro) Gods and Sages In The Trees
Icons, offerings, and ritual fires are always everywhere. (iPhone12Pro) Blessings from a Hindu Priest
I was very pleased that the resident priest was happy to have his picture made after he blessed me with red tilak. Women Working
The temple sits at 1600 m (5249 ft). On the steep hills below, life goes on. (iPhone12Pro) In the Field
I gave up waiting for the promised breakfast to materialize, and bravely pulled out my brand-new cameras and turned them on. Gadool Hills
I had just switched to mirrorless camera bodies, and changed from Canon to Sony systems; everything felt different. I was lucky that anything came out in focus! The Rice Fields of Home
The next morning I was up early for a class that never happened; I found a mat and did my own thing before walking down our long hill in search of some food and spiced tea. (iPhone12Pro) Red and Green
I love the contrast of this woman’s clothing against the field she’s working in; much like the contrast between the busy street I’m on and the virtual countryside below. (iPhone12Pro) Chai Wallah
Once I found a samosa and a masala chai in a clay cup, all was right with the world again! (iPhone12Pro) Nandi at your Service
Before climbing back up the hill for my proper breakfast, I stopped in at a tiny local temple. Vashishtha Gufa Temple
Our mid-morning excursion that day was to a famous meditation cave, a half hour to the east of us. Gate on the Ganges
The temple was built around 1930 to be in proximity with the nearby caves. The rock on the foreshore points the way to the Arundhatī (washed by the rays of sun) Gufa (cave). Lizard – Agama Iguanian
It’s a short, but very rocky, walk to the cave; I pause to admire a small iguana sunning on the cliff wall. Inside a Meditation Cave
It is cool and dark inside the cave, and the energy is conducive to quiet meditation. Arundhati’s Cave – the smaller of the two – has also been called the Jesus Cave after one swami (Papa Ramdas) had visions of Jesus during his meditations here in the 1930s. The Shrine
One story says the sage Vashistha meditated here for “a long time” after the death of his hundred children. Another says this is where he was born. Either way, we paid our respects before leaving. Agama Iguanian – Lizard
Back outside, the lizards have changed colour! Common Mormon Butterflies – Papilio Polytes
Butterflies were everywhere on the sandy edges outside the cave. Indian Cabbage White (Pieris Canidia), Lime Butterfly (Papilio Demoleus), and Common Mormon (Papilio Polytes)
They were wonderful to watch! The Ganges
With the verdant foothills all around, the Ganges keeps flowing … (iPhone12Pro) Vashishtha Cave Temple
… and we work our way back up past the temple. Rescue Animals
As distressing it is to see animals in this condition, it is good to know that Vashishtha Gufa Temple is looking after them now. THIS is the Rishikesh I Remember!
This would be my most treasured moment: yoga on the Ganges ghats across from the thirteen-story concoction that is the Trayambakeshwar Temple. Good Morning, Mother Ganga!
After leading us through our morning Hatha class, our instructor kindly posed for me. (iPhone12Pro) Bathing in the Ganges
Not far from us, people were washing away their sins. I went into the river up to my ankles; I guess I am partially absolved. (iPhone12Pro) Trimurti Gurudatt Ashram
It is as if these buildings on Mother Ganga are made from royal icing sugar! (iPhone12Pro) Morning Practice
While waiting for my last class, this was the scene that met me. I’m a long way from able to do this! (iPhone12Pro) Saints and yogis have been meditating on the banks of Ganges since antiquity. Finally it was my turn! I’m not sure I gained any enlightenment, but I tested my patience, and I had fun.
I’ll have to go back and try again …
Photos: 02-06September2023
Posted in India,TravelTags: architecture,blog,environmental portrait,hindu,hinduism,landscape,Photo Blog,Religious Practice,temple,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Emerald Railway Station
Australia is a coastal country, with more than 90 percent of the population living within 100km of the ocean. As soon as you drive inland a short distance, the pace of development and change slows right down. There, you are in farming territory, with small communities, and a lot of empty space. I do love road trips!
And when I’m on one, other ones I’ve taken come to mind: whether it’s because of comparisons or contrasts. I’ve just spent some time winding up and down through the magnificent mountains of Western Canada – which counter-intuitively made me think of the straight and lonely stretches of highway through Queensland, Australia. I was talking to the Canadian driver of an electric car, and I couldn’t help but remember the number of times I’ve been holding my breath on almost-deserted Australian country roads, feverantly hoping that there’s an open petrol station soon.
This all motivated me to return to a set of photos I took some years ago as I was working my way back south through Queensland canefields, farmlands, and small country communities. The cameras were all packed up, so the pictures are taken with my iPhone12Pro and are more about ‘mood’ than photographic excellence.
It was in 2021. We were still in the grip of Covid19 lockdowns, which meant no overseas travel, and watching local conditions carefully to avoid hot-spots. I had driven up to Port Douglas, in Queensland (see: Travelling North), and was heading back south. With patchy internet, GoogleMaps, and Booking.com, I worked out my stopping points ahead of time – making sure my driving days were kept reasonably short.
My planned route was inland – staying off the busier National A1 Highway, and avoiding the worst of the cyclones ravaging the coast. Just south of Cairns, in Far North Queensland, I turned west, following the lesser-used highways south to the New South Wales border.
Join me for a country drive.
The Calm Before the Cyclone
At Deeral, Queensland, just south of Cairns, I started hearing the reports of incoming storms. It was time to turn away from the Coral Sea and the stunning coastline before the winds arrived! Raptors on the Road
On the Gregory Highway, somewhere in the Charters Towers Region of Queensland, it was just me and the raptors for miles and miles. I saw no other vehicles, and very few dwellings. At one point, I startled a group of birds – mostly hawks, I think – gathered on a road kill. Above the Lonely Highway
I stopped to watch them for a while, but they were leery of getting close while I was there. Belyando Crossing
Having seen the warning sign: “Next Petrol 200km”, I’d been watching the fuel gauge and my mileage closely. But, I must have blinked! I passed this, then saw another sign: “Next Petrol 200km”. Needless to say, I made a quick U-turn. I stopped in to fill the tank and grab a snack and a comfort stop before continuing south. Lattice and Fresh Paint
Emerald is a more substantial town than many along my route, and I was delighted to come across their heritage-listed Railway Station on my morning walk. The Road Ahead
After a breakfast in Emerald that was worthy of a trendy inner-city cafe, I was back on the almost-empty Gregory Highway in the Central Highlands. Minerva Hills National Park
The sight of that jagged ridge of volcanic peaks on the horizon grabbed my attention; … A Little Red Tractor
… and I had to pull off the highway to have a closer look. I have put the Minerva Hills on my ‘to visit one day’ list! Albert ‘Bert’ Edward Shaw
Apparently, the tiny town of Injune is known for ‘a lively interest in the arts.’ I stopped for lunch and took time admiring a series of rustic metal statues depicting local identities along the main street. What a delightful way to jazz up your town and share some local history! Queensland Bottle Tree (Brachychiton Rupestris)
Roma, where I stopped for a night, is a rural town in the Maranoa Region, and is home to more bottle trees than I have ever seen in one place! Queensland Bottle Tree
Tall and leafy, they store water in their trunks, making them drought resistant. Brachychiton Rupestris
The trees are endemic to Queensland, and are not related to baobabs, which they resemble loosely. Bottle Tree in the Park
Roma uses the species extensively for street and park plantings, and even has a heritage-listed Avenue of Heroes, with 140 trees standing in tribute to local soldiers fallen in the First World War. A Fixer-Upper?
The other thing that stood out for me around town was the variety of building styles. Houses on stilts are common to protect against flash-flooding. A Country Queensland Homestead
A newer, lived-in home, also on stilts – has the necessary rain storage tank in the back, and an Australian flag flying proudly out front. Weathered and Worn
Paint doesn’t last long in this harsh and changeable climate. School of Arts Hotel
The pub, of course, is the centre of town. Built in 1918, the rambling hotel includes 44 simple bedrooms upstairs. Another House on Stilts
It’s hard to know how old some of these cobbled-together houses are! Wildflowers in the Grass
Mexican sunflowers always make me smile! Hebel Hotel
This is a typical ‘Queenslander’: a building style developed in the 1840s to help deal with the climate in Australia’s eastern subtropics. The corrugated iron roof and deep, wrap-around, veranda help protect residents from periods of high rainfall alternating with pounding sunlight. It seems fitting that a ‘Queenslander’ was the last building that grabbed my attention before I slipped over the border into the state of New South Wales.
 It always amazes me how much the landscape and architecture change, even within short distances, as one drives.
Safe Travels!
Photos: 27February-02March2021
Posted in Architecture,Australia,TravelTags: architecture,Australia,nature,Photo Blog,Queensland,road trip,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Basilique Saint-Sernin de Toulouse
The largest remaining Romanesque building in Europe, this beautiful basilica is an important stop along the UNESCO-listed French pilgrimage route to the Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Toulouse, France’s fourth-largest city and the capital of the southern Occitanie region, was an unexpected treat.
My husband and I were stopped there for two nights in transit, and had enjoyed our time wandering through the public gardens (see: Public Art and Gardens) and admiring the narrow cobbled streets and ancient buildings. What I didn’t know until later is that one of the buildings we were admiring, the Basilique Saint-Sernin, was actually UNESCO-heritage listed for its historic connection to a French portion of the Camino de Santiago, the Way of St. James. The Romanesque church, consecrated in 1096, was the most important stop in Southwest France for pilgrims walking to Galicia in northwestern Spain.
The city itself is layered with history. Originally founded by the Romans, Toulouse was the capital of the Visigothic Kingdom in the 5th century and the capital of the province of Languedoc in the Late Middle Ages and early modern period. Traces of the Romance language that evolved from Latin in the region – known as Occitan, Langue d’Oc, or Provençal – can still be heard.
Linguistically, Occitan is closer to the Catalan spoken in Andorra and parts of eastern Spain than it is to French, and the Languedoc regions did not historically consider themselves part of the Kingdom of France. That all changed after the Albigensian Crusade (1209–1229) against the Cathars.
The Cathars, or self-identified ‘Good Christians’, were part of a loosely organised movement of pseudo-Gnostics which thrived in Southern Europe. Because they eschewed some of the teachings – and all of the excesses – of the Catholic Church, they were pronounced heretics. Pope Innocent III (1198 -1216) first tried to end Catharism by sending out missionaries, then launched the crusade against them – and their protectors, including the Count Raymond VI of Toulouse (1156 – 1222) – in 1209.
The twenty-year-long Albigensian Crusade (and the Medieval Inquisition which followed it) has been called a genocide: it was largely political and was ultimately effective. Long story short, there was a significant reduction in the number of practicing Cathars, the County of Toulouse became aligned with the French crown, and the distinct regional culture of Languedoc was diminished.
Since that time, Toulouse has been a solid Catholic bastion, which shows in its architecture.
Bicycles in Toulouse
European cities – or the city centres, at least – tend to be bicycle and pedestrian friendly. Le Télégramme – Rue Gabriel Péri and Rue des 7 Troubadours
Streets run off in odd directions, and buildings nestle in where they can. This example, with its bluish gray slate roof and its stone and brick polychrome walls, is a distinctive Toulouse landmark. The Toulouse Telegram
Designed by brother architects, Antoine and Raymond Isidore, as the home of one of Toulouse’s four main newspapers, the building, finished in 1912, has since been retrofitted several times. The Cathedral of Saint Stephen
Down another narrow street, we find the chevet, or east end, of the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne, with its massive buttresses – built with the expectation that the choir would be much taller than it is. Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Toulouse
Built on the site of an earlier Romanesque cathedral, the current building was started at the beginning of the 13th century (1210–1220). Called ‘militant religious architecture’, this more austere Southern French Gothic style of building was an attempt to woo back Catholics who had turned to Catharism – which advocated a more pious austerity. Heritage-listed by the French Ministry of Culture, the cathedral is still the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Toulouse, and is considered emblematic of the city and its historic joining into the Kingdom of France. Balconies in the Pink City
Many of the city’s buildings are constructed from pinkish terracotta bricks – earning Toulouse its La Ville Rose (The Pink City) nickname. City Streets
Residential streets are broad boulevards, full of leafy trees. Dogs are everywhere! Capitole de Toulouse
The next morning we found ourselves in the massive square at the Capitole. The 135 m (443 ft) wide main façade of the city hall was built between 1750 and 1760 in the Neoclassical style from the characteristic local pink brick. In the Café
The square is bounded by cafés and other small businesses. Petit-Déjeuner – Gaufre à la Crème Florist
Temporary businesses set up in the square daily. Rue du Taur
Wandering the old cobbled streets lined with candy-coloured buildings was a delight. Rue du Taur (Street of the Bull), which runs between the Place du Capitole and Place Saint-Sernin, is so named because it is here that Saint-Saturnin (Sernin) was martyred during the 3rd century. The Romans had tied him to a furious bull that dragged him through the streets. Notre Dame du Taur
The original building here was a Roman Catholic oratory built on the exact spot the patron saint of Toulouse, Saint Saturnin, was reputedly dropped by the bull in the year 250. What we see now was built between the 14th–16th centuries in Southern French Gothic, or Meridional Gothic, style. Saint François d’Assise
This current building was classified as a historic monument in 1840, and has been UNESCO-listed since 1998 under the Paths of Saint Jacques de Compostela in France. Saints flank the portal of the west facade of the building’s clock tower. Basilique Saint-Sernin de Toulouse
The number of pilgrims stopping at the Notre Dame du Taur to pay respects to Saint Saturnin was overwhelming, and in the 11th century, a larger church was started to accommodate them. Saturnin’s bones and other relics were transferred to this larger basilica. Basilique Saint-Sernin Bell Tower
The commanding bell tower is divided into five tiers: the lower three, with their Romanesque arches, date from the 12th century, and the upper two Gothic sections date from the 13th century. The spire was added much later, in the 15th century. Renaissance Gate to the Abbey The Miègeville Gate – Circa 1100 Ancient Icons
The interior of the basilica is dark, and decorated with old iconographic artwork. I think this is theologian and philosopher Saint Augustine. Deep Window The Cross Colours and Textures
Back outside the Saint Sernin Basilica, the spring air is full of the scent of flowers. Outside the Basilica
The massive, ancient building looks different from every angle. The Apse
The beautiful brickwork in the apse of the Basilica Saint-Sernin is immediately recognisable. Café
There is always somewhere close at hand to stop for coffee. Stade Toulousain Rugby
These old buildings are in constant need of love and attention … Derelicts
… and some have fallen by the wayside. Having seen a lot and walked a lot, we returned to our accommodation to prepare for the long train north to Paris the next day.
 Of course, we stopped along the way for another wonderful meal.
Bon Appétit!
Photos: 24-25April2011
Posted in Architecture,France,TravelTags: architecture,cathedral,Catholic,landscape,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall,worship
Legong Dancer
Bali has a rich and unique culture. At one of the temples in Ubud, a Legong dancer welcomes us to an evening performance of abbreviated classical dances. Bali is a wonderful holiday destination: the people are warm and welcoming, the landscape is varied and amazing, the culture is rich and fascinating, and the food is fresh and fabulous.
I thoroughly enjoyed previous visits to this lovely Indonesian island (see: Bali, Indonesia), but this trip was for a family function, rather than purely for recreation, so much of my time was taken up with logistics, rather than tourism.
Still, a girl’s gotta eat! Half the joy of travel is the flavours – and Bali’s local take on Indonesian cuisine is always a treat.
We also managed to turn one necessary shopping excursion into an excuse to visit Ubud, the cultural heart of the island.
Ubud had grown since my last visit and was much more crowded than I remembered. But, it is still surrounded by verdant rice terraces and punctuated with ancient temples. As well as being home to every type of tourist shop, and restaurants representing the flavours of the world, it is also Bali’s center for traditional crafts and dance.
We walked the length of the hilly town, taking time in the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, home to three Hindu temples and over 1200 cheeky long tailed macaques. After yet more food, we enjoyed an evening performance of the tourist-version of classical Legong temple- and palace-dances.
Join me for some food and culture!
On the Tarmac – Sydney Airport
Travel is always made sweeter when the weather you are leaving behind is inclement! (iPhone12Pro) Chicken Sate
My accommodation had no food on site and seemed a long way from anywhere! (iPhone12Pro) Table on the Cliff
The silver lining was that I was forced (in spite of the temperature (31°C and humid!) to get out and walk. (iPhone12Pro) Electric Sunset
This is the Asia I remember: tangles of overhead wires everywhere! (iPhone12Pro) Carpenter on the Roof
My son calls this the “Spot the OH&S violation!” game. People performing dangerous jobs without any of the protective gear we have come to expect in the West is still a common sight across Asia. Balinese Gate
In Bali, gateways are both physical and symbolic barriers, built to protect against wild animals and evil spirits. This one is a Paduraksa, a gate with a roof that serves as an entry to a family compound. Goddess Sculpture on the Walkway
The Ubud Monkey Forest has a whole new entry building since my last visit. From there, we walked across a bridge where Sri Devi holds a paddy to guarantee a fruitful harvest. Monkey Forest Entry
The journey into the forest continues through a cave called Durgama, named for the Hindu goddess Durga. The relief carvings on the entries depict the process of escorting guests in and out. Young Macaques
The crab-eating macaques, also known as Balinese long-tailed monkeys (Macaca fascicularis), in the forest are territorial, and divide themselves into discrete groups. All the animals are well-fed, and the youngsters in this growing population considerably out-number their elders. Cornerstone Detail Dwarapala – Temple Guardian
Known in Balinese as a Bedogol, this gate guardian statue stands outside one of the temples inside the Monkey Forest. Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal
The Padangtegal Great Temple of Death is one of three Hindu temples inside the Ubud Monkey Forest. Mature Macaque
The animals in the sanctuary are healthy and well-fed – but will still chase and tourists if they suspect they are carrying any food in their bags. Young Macaque
Three times a day, park staff distribute sweet potato. Macaque at the Forest Entry Lunch: Gado Gado (iPhone12Pro) Dinner – Lemongrass Chicken (iPhone12Pro) Temple Entry
After dinner, we make our way into the dark Pura Dalem. Blessings at the Temple Entry The Gamelan Band
At the appointed time, the traditional musicians start playing in what is a predominantly percussive ensemble. The Condong Dance
Traditionally, Legong dances, which probably originated in the 19th century as a Balinese royal entertainment, were performed by pre-pubescent girls. Today, dancers may be male or females of any age. The dances tell traditional stories and involve elaborate costumes, exaggerated eye movements and facial expressions, and intricate hand and foot positions. Baris Tunggal
A Baris dance is essentially a war dance, depicting the feelings of a young warrior prior to battle. Tari Topeng Punta
By contrast, this masked dancer is a mischievous old man. The Bee and the Flower
Some of the headdresses and hand positions bring to mind Khmer dancers, … The Bee and the Flower
… while the eye movements are similar to those used in some South Indian classical dance styles. Going Home
What is nice to see is the ongoing cultural tradition: I met these young ladies the next day. They were coming out of a local temple where they had just finished dance class in preparation for a festival. (iPhone12Pro) Little Dancers
It didn’t take much encouragement for them to strike a pose! (iPhone12Pro) Mount Batur
When I left the island a few days later, the clouds surrounded Bali’s active volcano. (iPhone12Pro) 
Flying out of Bali, I looked at the volcano rising out of the clouds, and reflected on the joyful but busy week I’d had.
Even when a Bali break is not a holiday, it is an absolute pleasure!
Pictures: 05-12May2024
Posted in Bali,Culture,Indonesia,TravelTags: animals,architecture,dance,dancer,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,hindu,hinduism,performance,performers,Photo Blog,sculpture,temple,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Those Stairs!
Immediately recognisable, the central staircase in the Main Hall of Dublin’s infamous Kilmainham Gaol has appeared in a number of films, tv shows, and even a U2 music video since the massive prison was decommissioned by the Irish Free State government in 1924. To me there was something surreal and troubling about watching Hugh Grant singing on the stairs of Kilmainham Gaol in pink-striped bell-bottoms.
It is a disturbing place: dark, cold, and in its day, severely overcrowded. Men, women and children were crammed in together, up to five in a small cell with only a single candle for light and heat. Everyday criminals were incarcerated alongside those who fought for Irish independence – starting with the Irish Rebellion of 1798.
Kilmainham was called the ‘New Gaol’ when it was built in 1796 to replace an even older one. A preserved prison register lists crimes ranging from violent assault to stealing loaves of bread or apples from an orchard. The youngest registered offender was a seven-year-old child; many of the adults were transported to Australia and regular public hangings took place in front of the prison.
In the late 1700s, John Howard (1726 – 1790), whose name is still associated with prison reform and public health improvements, became High Sheriff of Bedfordshire. He was shocked by the squalid conditions and resultant outbreaks of ‘prison fever’ in the jails within his jurisdiction. He educated the public about the barbaric conditions, and, with the aid of his own personal fortune, helped implement changes.
In spite of his efforts, prisoners in Kilmainham continued to be held in terrible conditions. They spent much of their time in the freezing cold, as the chill air was believed to purify a corrupt spirit. The lime walls retained moisture but not heat, and the windy windows in the cells were too high to see through.
During the Great Famine (1845-1852), even a newly-opened women’s section became immediately overwhelmed. Later, the notorious jail became synonymous with the Irish War of Independence (1919–21), with many political prisoners confined in the cells, and fourteen leaders of the Easter Rebellion (1916) executed by firing squad.
Access to the prison is by guided tour only; although my visit was quite some time ago, on a suitably dark and rainy Dublin day, I still remember how emotional our guide was as he talked about The Troubles – and how distressed I felt looking at the cells in which people were kept.
Of course, Paddington 2 is not the only movie filmed on location in what is now a now a museum run by the Office of Public Works – an agency of the Government of Ireland – and its Main Hall is immediately recognisable.
Come for a tour:
Jim Larkin
To maximise our time in Dublin, my husband and I had bought two-day Hop on/off bus passes. This gave us a bird’s eye view of some of the city landmarks. This bronze statue by Irish sculptor Oisin Kelly (1915 – 1981) depicts the founder of the Workers’ Union of Ireland, James Larkin (1874 – 1947), addressing the crowd. Almost Abstract – River Liffey Through Another Bus Molly Malone
In Dublin’s Fair City
Where the girls are so pretty
I first set my eyes on sweet Molly Malone
As she wheel’d her wheelbarrow
Through streets broad and narrow
Crying cockles and mussels alive, alive o!
We grew up singing this song about the fictional fishmonger who died of fever around 1699. The first published version of the folk song dates to 1884; the statue by Irish sculptor Jeanne Rynhart (1946 –2020), was created in 1988. Affectionately known as ‘The Tart with the Cart’, the bronze is a popular tourist stop. The Bus Next Door Guinness
We drive past the entrance to the Guinness Brewery Yard, where we had stopped for a tour the day before (see: Raise a Glass). Main Entrance to Kilmainham Gaol
A short distance up the road, we come to the prison entrance. Above the doorway, the tangle of serpents, dragons, or demons, is said to represent the five most heinous crimes of rape, murder, theft, piracy, and treason. Museum Displays
In 1958, the Kilmainham Gaol Restoration Society formed to preserve the building and develop a museum and art space. Outer Door Key: 1807 Locks and Keys ‘Hard Labour’
An art gallery on the top floor of the museum exhibits paintings, sculptures, and jewellery created by prisoners from around the country. Dr Shane Kenna
Employed by Ireland’s Office of Public Works, our tour guide was incredibly knowledgeable. Guarded Drainpipe
Every aspect of the old jail building is inhospitable. Stealing Bread
“Examples of food-related crime …” All the display signage is in English and Irish Gaelic. Catholic Chapel
In this chapel, Irish revolutionary leader Joseph Mary Plunkett married his fiancee Grace Gifford just hours before he was executed for his role in the 1916 Easter Rising. They were not permitted to speak during the ceremony, and Grace was allowed to spend only ten minutes in her husband’s prison cell under heavy supervision after the wedding. Arched Corridor
The hallways in the older sections of the prison are dark – and cold. Light the Darkness
These are the window inside the cell of Patrick Pearse – Irish teacher, barrister, poet, writer, nationalist, republican political activist, and revolutionary. A member of the Irish Republican Brotherhood and one of the leaders of the Easter Rising in 1916, Pearse and fifteen other leaders, including his brother, were ultimately court-martialed and executed by firing squad. Stripes of Paint – Texture in the Building Another West Wing Corridor
Even as a visitor, this place feels grim! I can’t imagine what it would have been like as an inmate. Main Hall
John McCurdy, freemason and official college architect of Trinity College Dublin, won an open competition to design a new section of jail in the late 1850s. In keeping with ‘modern’ Victorian principles, light was meant to inspire the inmates to look heavenward. The open design meant that all ninety-six cells could be seen from a central viewing area. Through the Steps
Even that magnificent staircase allows views of the room. Bricks around the Stonebreakers Yard
The cross marking the execution site of James Connolly for his part in the 1916 Easter Rising is hiding in the afternoon shadows. Entry – Exit
It is a relief to re-emerge into the open air from the prison – through the same door we entered by. “Proclamation” by Irish sculptor Rowan Gillespie (1953 – )
Across the road from the prison, we find the permanent outdoor sculpture honoring the leaders of the Easter Rising. The faceless and blindfolded figures each display a bullet pattern corresponding to where they were hit by the firing squad. Grim representations of troubled times …
We went for a walk to shake off some of the gloom – and found a nice pub for dinner and live music.
That’s Ireland!
Pictures: 08July2012
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