Hamar man with a wooden stool and a small-brimmed hat, Omo Valley Ethiopia

A Man and his Stool
Standing tall against the early morning sky outside his woven home, a Hamar man sets out with his wooden stool. (ISO200 40mm f5.6 1/60sec)

One of the beauties of travelling with a photo-tour is that you have more time to immerse and explore at locations.

This was certainly true for me in the Omo Valley, in southern Ethiopia. Even with improving roads, the region is difficult to access. But, once I and my fellow-photography enthusiasts got there, we had plenty of time to engage with the miriad of local cultures. We were travelling with photographer Ben McRae as part of a small-group Piper Mackay Photo-Tour, and once we had lodged ourselves in the market town of Turmi, we had access to a number of the distinctive tribal ethnic groups that live in the region.

We made several trips to a large Hamar village not far from our accommodation (see: Hamar Village, Hamar Faces, and Hamar Portraits). This was to be our last session with the tribe before we headed to another – even more remote – corner of the cumbersomely-named Southern Nations, Nationalities, and People’s Region (SNNPR) of Ethiopia.

When I’m travelling, I usually try to engage with the local people, and make the odd photos when I can – with consent, of course. The “pay-per-click” photo-tourism ethos common amongst the Omo Valley tribes made getting relaxed and candid shots much more difficult. All the villagers want their pictures made because this supplements their income, and they will present themselves to anyone with a camera and mentally count how many frames have been taken. It took me some time to get used to this, and it naturally resulted in photos that look more staged than I would generally like.

I’m not adept at flash photography, and after some years of carting gear around, have learned to leave my heavy flash units at home. And as I said, I’m not a fan of overly staged photographs – which is what you tend to get when subjects are constrained to the positioning of the flash units. But, the other advantage of traveling with a photo group is the chance to share equipment: if an off-camera flash and a softbox is available, I’m happy to experiment! And, when the pictures will be somewhat stiff and formal anyway because of the “pay-per-click” contracts, playing with the extra light made for a bit of fun.

Unfortunately for anyone who is technically-minded, my phone deleted all my notes on the flash details. But, most of it was pretty informal anyway: we had a helper who held up the softbox, and we told him to point higher or lower, and to stand closer or further away… And even though we arrived at the village early, the ambiant light increased quite quickly, reducing the impact of the fill-flash markedly. I actually can’t remember at what point I stopped being tied to the softbox, and wandered off to work with natural light alone.

Anyway, I hope you enjoy some more Hamar portraits – some of which benefit benefit from a bit of fill-flash.

Portrait: Elder Hamar Woman against a dark sky, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Hamar Elder Woman
The sun wasn’t yet risen when we arrived at the Hamar compound – but the locals were up and wearing their best tribal costumes for us. (ISO200 50mm f 5.6 1/60sec Off-Camera Flash-Fill)

Young Hamar man against a dark sky, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Young Hamar Man
It is not me who has posed this young man; the villagers are so used to having their portraits made that they all have their favourite formal postures. (ISO200 38mm f5.6 1/60sec Off-Camera Flash-Fill)

Young Hamar woman against a dark sky, Omo Valley Ethiopia

First Wife
This young woman is wearing a “burkule”, a necklace made of leather and metal that has a distinctive detail in the front. This indicates she is her husband’s high-ranking first wife. (ISO400 35mm f5.0 1/160sec Off-Camera Flash-Fill)

Young Hamar woman against a dark sky, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Hamar Wife
All married women (first and subsequent wives) wear two heavy iron necklaces. Girls and women wear a goatskin smock, richly decorated with beads and cowrie shells, and dress their hair with ochre. (ISO200 35mm f5.6 1/60sec Off-Camera Flash-Fill)

Portrait: Hamar man in a feathered headdress, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Hamar Man in a Feathered Headdress
The men love their beads and hair adornments. (ISO200 63mm f5.6 1/200sec Off-Camera Flash-Fill)

Portrait: Hamar man in a feathered headdress, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Tall and Proud
Warriors who have proven their courage by killing an enemy or a dangerous animal are entitled to fashion a mud-clay cap into the back of their hair and decorate it with precious feathers. (ISO200 70mm f5.6 1/100sec Off-Camera Flash-Fill)

Photographer, a male subject and a man holding a softbox, in a Hamar village, Omo Valley Ethiopia.

Working the Scene
My companion takes her turn with our Hamar subject and shared softbox.

Portrait: A Hamar second wife against an overcast sky, Omo Valley Ethiopia

A Second Wife
Second (and third, or fourth) wives wear only the two heavy iron necklaces. This one shows off her copper bracelets: popular with both men and women. (ISO200 70mm f5.6 1/60sec Off-Camera Flash-Fill)

Portrait: Young Hamar man with a phone, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Young Man with his Phone
I love the contrasts: the young man in his traditional beads, earrings, and bracelets – with the earbuds of his phone tucked into his ears. The modern world is making inroads into the remotest of communities! I had to work hard to get a smile out of him – but I think it was worth it. (ISO200 54mm f5.6 1/60sec Off-Camera Flash-Fill)

Hamar man with a wooden stool and a small-brimmed hat, Omo Valley Ethiopia

A Man and his Stool
This village is so picturesque, with its tidy, woven houses and backdrop of thorn trees and plains. (ISO200 24mm f5.6 1/60sec)

Portrait: Hamar man in a small-brimmed hat, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Hamar Man in a Hat
By this time it is nine in the morning, and the sky has lightened enough that the flash makes little impact. (ISO200 70mm f5.6 1/60sec)

Portrait: A Hamar girl woven huts, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Hamar Girl
This young girl was so adorable that I spent time with her on each of my visits to the kraal. (ISO200 70mm f5.6 1/60sec)

Portrait: Hamar man in a feathered headdress, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Hamar Warrior
Another warrior proudly wears his feathered cap. (ISO200 62mm f5.6 1/60sec)

Portrait: Hamar man in a feathered headdress, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Beads, Feather and Face Paint
The plateau stretches away into the distant mountains. (ISO200 70mm f5.6 1/60sec)

Portrait: Two unwarried Hamar girls, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Young Women
(ISO200 68mm f5.6 1/60sec)

Portrait: Hamar woman and child, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Mother and Child
I have no idea on what basis wives are chosen. Stories are written of second (and subsequent) wives being treated very badly, but all those I met seemed strong and proud. (ISO200 34mm f5.6 1/100sec)

Portrait: Hamar boy and girl, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Brother and Sister
Side-by-side like this, you can clearly see the difference that the ochre clay makes to one’s hair and skin colour.

Portrait: Hamar boy and girl, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Siblings
Those solemn little faces!

Hamar Woman outside her hut, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Woman Outside her Hut

Portrait: Hamar mother and daughter, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Mother and Daughter
These engaging women were two of my favourite subjects. I don’t know why mum isn’t wearing a wedding collar – she is mother to a number of children, including this one.

Hamar woman and girl at stick fence, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Mother and Daughter at their Fenceline
It seemed fitting that theirs would be the last pictures I took here, as they stood outside their tidy enclosure.

We left the village to head off in search of different tribes, and the Hamar people went back to their lives …

Text: Happy Travels

Until next time,

Happy Travels!

Photos: 19October2018

Statue of Pharaoh Hatshepsut outside her mortuary temple, Luxor Egypt

Pharaoh Hatshepsut
Hatshepsut (1507–1458 BC), was the daughter, sister, and wife of kings. From around 1493 BC, she was Queen Consort, then Queen Regent, and finally, the fifth pharaoh of Egypt’s Eighteenth Dynasty.

Hatshepsut, fifth pharaoh of the Eighteenth Dynasty, has been called one of Ancient Egypt’s most successful pharaohs.

And yet, she was almost removed from history! 

Hatshepsut, whose name means: “Foremost of Noble Ladies” was born to power. She was the only surviving child of King Thutmose I, the third pharaoh of the Eighteenth Dynasty, and his primary wife. However, Thutmose I had a son: Thutmose II, by a minor wife, and this ‘lesser son’ became the next pharaoh.

The politics and timelines are fuzzy, but at around age 12, Hatshepsut married her half-brother Thutmose II and thus became Queen; some say the marriage was to strengthen Thutmose II’s claim to the succession. Others believe that Hatshepsut was the true power behind the throne. She always maintained that she was her father’s intended heir. 

Thutmose II fathered a son by a minor wife before his death, and the widowed Hatshepsut took the role of Regent for the infant Thutmose III before declaring herself Pharaoh in her own right. She was not Egypt’s first female pharaoh, but she was the first to proclaim herself such when there was a living male heir.

Again, the motives behind this unusual move have been debated, with traditional Egyptologists arguing that it was her ambition that drove her. More recent scholars have suggested that there was a political crisis, and Hatshepsut was once again shoring up the lineage. She could not have become pharaoh without strong allies at court. She was well trained in royal administrative and religious duties, and she was clearly seen as a competent ruler by her subjects. 

Hatshepsut’s 21-year reign is now recognised as a time of peace and prosperity for Egypt. She reopened trade routes, including to to the fabled land of Punt – believed to be the coastal regions of the Horn of Africa. The riches of the realm allowed her to commission hundreds of building projects; she is said to have been one of the most prolific builders in Ancient Egypt

All records suggest that she and her stepson worked well together, and there is no evidence that her rule was ever challenged. This makes it only more strange that long after her death -two decades into the reign of her successor, Thutmose III – much of her legacy was erased. Her name was removed from the list of kings, many of her monuments were defaced, her cartouches and images were chiseled off stone walls, her statues were toppled, and depictions of her in hieroglyphics were painted over with male figures. Future pharaohs took credit for many of her building projects.

Once again, the motivation is unclear: the classic argument is that Thutmose III was acting out of jealousy and spite after being denied his rightful rule for so long. However, this belies the fact that he was politically active and commanded armies during his stepmother’s reign, and one would have to ask why he waited twenty years! It is more likely that this erasure from history was to protect the place of Thutmose III’s son, co-regent, and successor: Amenhotep II.

For many years, Egyptologists knew very little about Hatshepsut. Fortunately, the attempts to expunge her were incomplete, and many images of the female pharaoh still exist. Her rule was rediscovered in 1822 when scholars of Ancient Egypt were able to decode and read the hieroglyphics on the walls of Deir el-Bahri.

What they unearthed led noted Egyptologist James Henry Breasted to pronounce Hatshepsut “the first great woman in history of whom we are informed.”

Man at a display of alabaster, Imotep Luxor Egypt

Alabaster Factory
After a hot morning in the tombs of the Valley of the Kings (see: The Writing on the Walls and Take me to the Afterlife), a stop in an air-conditioned alabaster factory was a welcome break.

Man carving alabaster, Imotep Luxor Egypt

Carving Alabaster
The workers show us how it’s done.

Man with chunks of alabaster, Imotep Luxor Egypt

Explaining Alabaster
Using chant, rhyme, and humour, our host tells us all about alabaster.

Alabaster on shelves, Imotep Luxor Egypt

Alabaster for Sale
There is plenty of product for sale – and there is also coffee and tea.

Man on his phone, gift shop outside Deir Al Bahri, Luxor Egypt

Gift Sales
Markets are ubiquitous at the entries to all the historical sites. Sales are obviously slow!

Model of the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, Luxor Egypt

Model of the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut
Hatshepsut’s steward and architect, Senenmut, designed her mortuary temple.

Deir Al Bahri and Hatshepsut

Deir Al Bahri
This natural amphitheatre is vast. At first, Hatshepsut’s Mortuary Temple seems dwarfed by the magnificent limestone cliffs that rise nearly 300m above the the valley basin of Deir Al Bahri (Deir el-Bahari).

Ruins, Deir Al Bahri, Luxor Egypt

Bus Parking in the Ruins

Ruins in the cliffs of Deir Al Bahri, Luxor Egypt

Ruins in the Cliffs
UNESCO-listed as part of the Theban Necropolis, the area is dotted with remains of temples and tombs.

Deir Al Bahri and Hatshepsut

Outside the Memorial Temple of Queen Hatshepsut
Painstakingly restored, the temple originally took 15 years to build. The stunning classic lines and columns bring to mind Greek architecture that wasn’t the norm for another 1000 years.

Sphinx of Hatshepsut, Deir Al Bahri, Luxor Egypt

Sphinx of Hatshepsut
Originally, the temple was approached by a grand, sphinx-lined causeway; one lonely and badly damaged sphinx remains.

Statues of Pharaoh Hatshepsut, Mortuary Temple, Luxor Egypt

Hatshepsut Colonnades
Some say Hatshepsut portrayed herself as a ‘man’, but she appears in traditional female form and dress in many images. In formal pictures and statues, she is shown as a ‘pharaoh’, with the same false beard, symbols of office, and stylised form that other pharaohs – typically male – are depicted with.

Statues of Pharaoh Hatshepsut, Mortuary Temple, Luxor Egypt

“Lady of the Two Lands”
Dressed in pharaoh robes, Hatshepsut’s breasts are shielded behind her crossed arms and the royal staffs of the kingdoms of Upper and Lower Egypt.

Statues of Pharaoh Hatshepsut, Mortuary Temple, Luxor Egypt

Hatshepsut Colonnades
The extensive mortuary complex is considered Hatshepsut’s greatest achievement and one of the architectural wonders of Ancient Egypt.

Ruined Columns, Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, Luxor Egypt

Ruined Columns
Much of the complex is still under reconstruction and is out of bounds to visitors.

Bas-relief wall depiction of Hathor as a cow, Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, Luxor Egypt

Bas-Relief Wall Decorations
Hatshepsut associated herself with Hathor, incorporating a shrine to the cow-goddess at the southern end of the second level of the mortuary temple. Bas-relief pictures at the entry to Hathor’s Temple depict the goddess in her cow form: in this one, Hathor is licking Hatshepsut’s hand.

Head of the Goddess Hathor, Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, Luxor Egypt

Egyptian Goddess Hathor
Hathor had a place in every aspect of Egyptian life – and death. A personification of love, beauty, music, dance, motherhood, and joy, she was originally associated with the Milky Way, which was considered to be the milk that flowed from the udders of a heavenly cow. It was she who gave birth to and protected the pharaohs.

Head of the Goddess Hathor, Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, Luxor Egypt

Hathor on the Columns
Originally, the temple featured twelve Hathor-headed columns, but only a few remain. I particularly like this one, because it shows off her cow-ears.

Hatshepsut clearly wanted to be remembered. On her obelisk, she inscribed: 

“Now my heart turns this way and that, as I think what the people will say. Those who see my monuments in years to come, and who shall speak of what I have done.”

She certainly left her mark.

Until next time,

Happy Wandering!

Pictures: 07October2019

Seventy-Five Mile Beach from the air, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Seventy-Five Mile Beach
This has to be one of the most beautiful stretches of ‘highway’ anywhere! Voted one of the best coastal drives in the world, Seventy-Five Mile Beach on Fraser Island is part of Australia’s National Highway system: speed limits apply – and you need to give way to approaching aircraft!

Paradise.

That’s what the Butchulla people, the Traditonal Owners of what is now Fraser Island in Southeast Queensland, called it: K’gari, Paradise.

According to the Aboriginal Dreamtime story, the great God in the sky, Beiral, created all the people, but the people had no lands. Yendingie, a messenger, was sent down from the sky to make the sea and the land. When Yendingie arrived at what is now known as Hervey Bay, he had a helper – the beautiful white spirit-princess K’gari. She worked long and hard with Yendingie, and fell in love with the beautiful place they had created. She begged to be able to stay there forever.

Finally Yendingie agreed. “You may stay here, but you cannot stay in spirit form. I will need to change you.” So he changed her into a beautiful island. He added birds and animals – and trees and flowers – so she would never be alone. He created some mirrored lakes so that she could see into the sky. He made creeks and laughing waters that would become her voice, and he gave the people knowledge and laws, so that they and their children would always be there to live in harmony with K’gari, to keep her company, and to treat her with respect.

When I was told a version of this story, I was standing somewhere along a Fraser Island beach, where, looking back over the landscape, it was easy to imaging a sleeping spirit princess, draped in jewel-green forests and silver clouds.

Thanks to Air Fraser, like Yendingie and K’gari, I could appreciate those mirrors-lakes and lush forests from above. UNESCO-listed Fraser Island truly is a unique place of uncommon beauty: the world’s largest sand island with a remarkable eco-system (see: Fraser Island Forests and Waters).

Come meet K’gari.

Air Fraser Island plane and a Fraser Explorer MAN bus on Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Queensland Australia

Air Fraser Island and Fraser Explorer Tours
Fraser Island’s unique conditions require built-for-purpose transportation. Our tour bus is a 4-wheel-drive multi-geared MAN vehicle, custom-designed in Germany. The Gippsland GA8 Airvan is a single-engined utility aircraft manufactured in Australia. Both are at home on the sand.

Pilot in the cockpit of a GippsAero, Fraser Island Queensland Australia

Pilot in the GippsAero
I love small planes, and I reckon there is almost no better travel souvenir than aerial views of a place you are exploring.

Whistling Kite in a cloudy sky, Fraser Island Queensland Australia

Whistling Kite
A raptor circles overhead to show us how it is done.

View of Seventy-Five Mile Beach, and an Air Fraser strut from inside the plane, Queensland Australia

Taxiing
Watching the waves on the beach as we cruise along it in a plane is a new experience for me! (iPhone6)

Lake McKenzie from the air, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Over Lake McKenzie
Lake McKenzie is truly a heart-shaped gem from the air! As a ‘perched’ lake, it has no river inflow or outflow and contains only rainwater. The white sands surrounding it are almost pure silica.

People standing in the waters of Lake Mckenzie, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Lake Mckenzie
The acidity of the water keeps it crystal clear and free of growing organisms, as I had discovered myself the day before when I ventured into it.  The waters feel like warm silk, and the sands are soft underfoot.

Lake Wabby from the air, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Over Lake Wabby
I love the different perspective you get from the air! Lake Wabby is a barrage lake that came about because the encroaching young sand dune, the Hammerstone Sandblow, blocked its water supply.

People walking on Hammerstone Sandblow, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Hammerstone Sandblow
The sands look quite different when you are trying to traverse them!

People at the edge of Lake Wabby, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Lake Wabby
Lake Wabby’s emerald colour was more intense at ground level, but the lake’s distinctive half-moon shape was harder to appreciate.

Pilot in the cockpit of a GippsAero, Fraser Island Queensland Australia

The Coast from the Cockpit
I love watching the coastline from the cockpit – even when the skies are closing in.

View of rain on the Pacific Ocean and an Air Fraser strut from inside the plane, Queensland Australia

Light on the Pacific
The weather was rainy, and squalls came and went. It was wonderful to watch the dramas of light play out over the water.

Mists over Fraser Island from the Air, Queensland Australia

Mists over Fraser Island
The soft rains drape the sleeping form of Princess K’gari as we continue our flight.

MAN Bus on the Seventy-Five Mile Beach from the air, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Bus on the Beach
We circle back toward Seventy-Five Mile Beach; the tour bus and its earth-bound occupants come into view.

Two 4WD vehicles driving in low water on Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Vehicles on Seventy-Five Mile Beach
Special permits, extra insurance, and driving orientations are required by anyone wanting to drive on Fraser Island. Road rules apply, and Nature takes a dim view of operators who don’t respect the conditions (Evening – 07June2019).

Tourist bus wreck in the ocean, Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Wreck in the Water
We had seen this vehicle the evening before (07June2019), not long after it had bogged itself at Yidney Rocks. The tourists on board managed to exit safely through the roof, but the incoming tides made rescuing the bus itself impossible. (Our driver had opted for the longer, inland route – even there, we had to stop to rescue a police 4WD vehicle that had strayed too far into the soft sandy shoulders.) When we saw this vehicle again less than 12 hours later (as pictured here), it was pretty much destroyed by the overnight seas.

The skeleton of the SS Maheno, Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

The Maheno on the Horizon
The skeleton of the SS Maheno, on the other hand, has been weathering the waves since washing up here in 1935.

The skeleton of the SS Maheno, Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Snapping the Shipwreck
Between 1856 and 1935, twenty-three shipwrecks were recorded in the waters around Fraser Island. The Maheno is the best known, and is a stop on most tourist itineraries.

The skeleton of the SS Maheno, Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Maheno – The Island
Although the ship was built in Scotland, the name Maheno is the Maori (New Zealand) word for ‘island’. 

The skeleton of the SS Maheno, Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Splash on the Maheno
The Maheno started life as a luxury passenger liner in 1904, and was at one time the fastest ship to cross the Tasman between Australia and New Zealand.

The skeleton of the SS Maheno, Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Waves over the Maheno
She served as a hospital ship during World War I, making runs in the English Channel and between the British Isles and New Zealand.

The skeleton of the SS Maheno, Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Sculpture in Rust and Water

The skeleton of the SS Maheno, Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Waves and Rust
At the end of her days, she was sold for scrap, and was under tow from Sydney to Japan

The skeleton of the SS Maheno, Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Waves over the Cabin
… when she was caught and beached here in a 1935 cyclone that devastated parts of the Queensland coast.

The skeleton of the SS Maheno, Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Rusty Skeleton

Closeup: SS Maheno, Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Almost Abstract : Water and Rusty Iron

Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Seventy-Five Mile Beach
Looking north from the shipwreck, the beach looks quiet and inviting … but: Users, Beware!

Text: Take only PicturesParadise, yes.

But, also a land of bogs, wrecks, and ruins.

It always pays to respect Nature – and Princess K’gari.

Until next time, 

Happy Travels!

Photos: 07-08June2019

  • […] I’m not much of a geology student, but the landscape of Fraser Island is a living, pulsing thing that transcends time. As written in the UNESCO-World Heritage listing, the “immense sand dunes are part of the longest and most complete age sequence of coastal dune systems in the world and are still evolving”. The system dates back at least 700,000 years, and some of the dunes may be 400,000 years old. The sculpting of the magnificent silica sand blows by the wind is ongoing today, changing the island’s profile as we watch (see: Airways, Highways, and Waterways). […]ReplyCancel

Nepali man with prayer beads, Royal Palace, Patan Nepal

Man with Prayer Beads – Patan’s Royal Palace
Patan’s Durbar (Palace) Square is an integral part of the Kathmandu Valley UNESCO World Heritage Listing. The former Royal Palace houses the Patan Museum; but it is much more than that. It is a living, breathing place of architectural beauty, where life continues amid precious buildings and earthquake ruins.

Religious expression is a part of daily life in Nepal, and even the buildings are a declaration of faith and a demonstration of artistry.

Patan (or Lalitpur (ललितपुर), or Manigal) is the oldest of the three cities in the Kathmandu Valley. It is known for its rich cultural heritage, cottage industries, and skilled craftsmanship – particularly in metal and stone.

In Patan, even the city plan itself is an iconographic expression of Buddhist principles: the city was designed in the shape of the Dharma-Chakra (Wheel of Righteousness). According to the most popular story, Emperor Aśoka (Ashoka), the legendary King of India (r. 268-232 BCE), who embraced Buddhism and ruled across the vast Mauyran Empire, visited this region in 250 BCE while on pilgrimage with his daughter. He directed that five stupas be built: one at each of the four cardinal points, and one in the middle of Patan.

As a consequence, Patan is one of the oldest Buddhist cities in the world.

While the city is said to contain 1200 Buddhist monuments, it is also a center of Hinduism. A dizzying array of courtyards, major temples, and small shrines radiate out from Durbar (or Palace) Square. It is this collection of culturally important and artistically beautiful buildings, with their brick, stone, timber and bronze ornamentation, that results in Patan’s inclusion as one of the seven Monument Zones contributing to the UNESCO World Heritage-listing of the Kathmandu Valley. As UNESCO says, Buddhism and Hinduism both prospered in Nepal and produced an artistic and architectural fusion that came “into its own in the three hundred year period between 1500 and 1800 AD.”

As much as these intricately decorated Newar monuments and buildings impress me, I am even more taken with the people who go about their lives around this living history, and pause to invite strangers to share a glimpse of their world.

Ancient temple, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

“Follow the Regulations Gently”
As soon as you enter Patan’s Durbar Square, you find people draped over the ancient Newar architecture.

Guardian Lions, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Guardian Lions
All across Asia, the entrances to homes, public buildings, and temples of various religions, are flanked by a pair of guardian lions. Thought to be stylistically modelled on the Asiatic lion once common across the continent, they are always found in pairs as a manifestation of yin and yang. Unfortunately, they could not protect Durbar Square from catastrophic damage in the earthquake of April 2015.

Oil lamps burning in a dark temple, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Oil Lamps in a Temple
Countless small temples and shrines are dotted all around the square and the city beyond. They are usually dark, with air that is hot and close from flames, and smoky with spicy incense.

Oil lamps burning in a dark temple, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Lighting a Flame in a Temple
It is customary to ring a bell, make a small offering, and light a flame to awaken the god or goddess before one worships.

Young woman applying a bindi in a dark temple, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Applying a Bindi
Trays of turmeric and vermilion ochre are inside the temple so that people can apply thier own bindis before praying, and then go on with their daily routines.

Garuda carved in stone, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Guardian in the Stone
The Garuda is a legendary bird-like creature in Hindu, Buddhist, and Jain mythology. It represents birth and heaven, and is found all around the buildings of Patan.

Brass Goods For Sale
Brass vases, door knockers, singing bowls, and various religious iconography are for sale on the streets and in the shops. (iPhone6)

Brass decorative and religious goods for sale, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Beautiful Brass

Nepali woman in a wooden-framed window, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Woman in a Window
The are a number of old Newari residential houses around Durbar Square.

Ceramic Shrine, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Ceramic Shrine
Some small shrines are not immediately recognisable as such to outsiders, but if you look carefully, you will see the bell on the left and a burner on the right.

Portrait of a Newari woman, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Newari Woman in Pink
In Nepal, marigolds are considered pure and called the “herb of the sun”. They are signifiant as a religious symbol in Hindu, Buddhist, and Catholic celebrations.

Portrait: Young Nepali woman in an art shop, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

That Smile!
Durbar Square is surrounded with countless shops full of art, craft, and smilling faces.

Intricately carved temple struts, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Carved Struts
Everywhere you look, someone has put time and attention into the crafting …

Intricately carved carved pillar, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Carved Pillar
… of all the woodwork and stonework.

Portrait: Nepali man on the museum stoop, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Man on the Museum Stoop
And, everywhere, there are people bringing the wood and stone to life.

Brass ornament on a palace roof, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Ornate Building Front
Wood, tiles, brick, and brass: the buildings are a multi-media work of art.

Portrait: Nepali men on the Palace Stoop, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Men in their Dhaka Topi
Dhaka ko Topi literally means: “headgear made of dhaka cloth”; dhaka is the hand-spun cotton inlay-pattern weaving used to make the intricately patterned and colourful panels for Nepali hats.

Portrait: Nepali men on the Palace Stoop, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Men on the Palace Stoop
The Dhaka topi (ढाका टोपी) is a part of the Nepalese national dress.

Patan Shrines, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Patan Shrines
Life goes on around the shrines.

Portrait of a Newari woman, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Smiling Woman
Wonderful faces are everywhere!

Portrait: Nepali man in his hat, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Old Newari Man

Detail: Stone Carving, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Detail: Stone Carving
Intricate work is all around, …

Detail: Stone Carving, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Apsara: Female Spirit
… dancing out of the clouds, waters, and stones of the city, …

Portrait: Nepali men on the Palace Stoop, Durbar Square, Patan Nepal

Old Men on the Palace Stoop
… and the smiles are contagious.

That belief that life is in the lap of the Gods helps when things go seriously pear-shaped –

Sign-Off-Namaste– and for that, I truly envy the smiling people of Nepal!

Until next time,

Namaste!

Photos: 13March2017

  • Kevin - July 17, 2020 - 9:06 am

    Namaste Ursula, another nice photo series, it all seems so long ago!ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - July 20, 2020 - 1:49 am

      Hi Kevin,
      Thanks for looking in! It was, indeed, a long time ago and far away… I do wonder if we will ever be allowed to travel again!
      I hope you are staying out of the hot-spots.
      Cheers!ReplyCancel

Falls Mill and Wheel on Factory Creek, Belvidere, Tennessee

Falls Mill and Wheel – Museum of Power and Industry
Built in 1873, the old water-powered textile factory in Belvidere is just one of many preserved Historic Places in Middle Tennessee.

Tennessee is very much a part of “The South”, and all the complex and tangled history that comes with that. Landlocked, and bordered by eight other states (seven of which belong to “The South” according to the U.S. Census Bureau), the state is vertically sliced into three regions. Even without leaving the central one – aptly named Middle Tennessee – you can immerse yourself in all kinds of stories.

Paleo-Indians are believed to have hunted and camped in what is now Tennessee as early as 12,000 years ago (see: Southern Short Stories), and when Western settlers moved into Middle Tennessee during the 1700’s, it was in violation of existent treaties. This central chunk is home to previous presidents (e.g.: Andrew Jackson’s Hermitage) and Civil War battle grounds and “heroes” (see: Southern Short Stories). It is also known for its moonshine and whisky (see: Jack Daniels), as well as it’s night-life and music (see: Music City – Nashville).

Beyond the area’s comlicated history, however, is the natural environment. I am always amazed by how much wild, wooded space there is in Tennessee; the state is home to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, which – contrary to most peoples’ beliefs – is the USA’s most visited National Park. I’m just as happy walking in the smaller woods, along clear waterways, in search of the many small, but beautiful, waterfalls (see: Woods and Waterfalls).

In short, it is easy to point in any direction and find something to enjoy and/or learn.

My husband has family in Middle Tennessee, and lucky for us, our last visit coincided with great weather. We pointed the car southeast, and found a railroad museum and a museum devoted to early industry.

Join us in the southeastern-most corner of Middle Tennessee:

Old Steam Locomotive in front of the Cowan Railway Museum, TN USA

Cowan Railway Museum
My husband was a great fan of trains and had a complex model set that required a great deal of space! He was thrilled when his daughter pointed him to this place.
The building, circa 1904, that houses the collection is considered an example of “Railroad Gothic”, and is maintained in the original colours.

Freight Train, CSX Mainline, Cowan TN USA

Freight Train
The depot was moved from its original position across the CSX Mainline and deposited further back for safety. The CSX Mainline is very much in use and, like small children, we waved as this freight train hurtled past.

Hamburg Süd containers, Freight Train, CSX Mainline, Cowan TN USA

Hamburg Süd
It is a small world! I have a cousin who worked for many years as a merchant mariner out of Hamburg, on the North Sea in northern Germany. Whenever I see the containers, I smile.

Brass employee name plates, Cowan Railway Museum, TN USA

Honouring the Workers
The museum contains a range of bits and photographs, collected over its thirty-plus year history. I particularly liked the name-plaques of all the employees who had worked at the depot. (iPhone6)

Diesel NC&StL #100, Cowan Railway Museum, TN USA

NC&StL
Chartered in Tennessee in 1845, the Nashville, Chattanooga & Saint Louis Railway served the people of the south until it was absorbed by the Louisville and Nashville Railroad in 1957. This diesel (GE 44 ton, NC&StL #100) was built in 1950.

The Fowler Center, University of the South, TN USA

Fowler Center
Such is the the nature of The South, that even when you don’t have gracious antiquities, buildings are made to look as if you do! Although this looks like a fortress, the Fowler Centre is in fact a swimming pool and sports facility, and part of the small private Episcopal liberal-arts college in Sewanee: The University of the South. We were here to look at the swimming pool – where family members had competed – and to have lunch at the most-excellent nearby coffee shop.
As I said earlier: it is a small world. Years later I met a man at a tiny theatre in Sydney: he was on sabbatical as a drama teacher at Sewanee. He was most surprised to meet someone, well across the world, who had heard of the place, let alone visited!

Close-up of the Falls Mill Wheel at the Museum of Power and Industry at Falls Mill, Belvidere, TN USA

Falls Mill Wheel
Our next stop was at nearby Belvidere, where the old Falls Mill houses the Museum of Power and Industry. The 10-metre (32-foot) overshot water-wheel – believed to be the largest still in use in the US – powers the equipment on all four levels of the old building.

Falls Mill antique machinery, Belvidere TN USA

Falls Mill Machinery
The mill first opened in 1873 as a cotton and woollen factory. It has been re-purposed many times over the years: at times making brooms, working a printing press, powering a cotton gin, operating a woodworking shop, and today produces stone ground cornmeal, flour, and grits.

Falls Mill antique machinery, Belvidere TN USA

Wool Carding Machine
Antique machinery is exhibited on the first two floors of the old mill, with many of the items still in working order. This old wool carding machine is under refurbishment.

1929 Aeolian Player Piano Exhibit, Falls Mill, Belvidere TN USA

1929 Aeolian Player Piano
The building houses a number of period pieces; …

1929 Aeolian Player Piano Exhibit, Falls Mill, Belvidere TN USA

Piano Hammers
… I was fascinated watching the player piano, as – for a quarter – it played the old tunes.

Cotton display, Falls Mill, Belvidere TN USA

Spooling Cotton

Fall on Factory Creek, Belvidere TN USA

Spillway on Factory Creek
While conducting the first survey of Franklin County, surveyors made note of areas where waterways had a measurable drop in elevation.

Falls Mill and Wheel on Factory Creek, Belvidere, Tennessee

Falls Mill and Wheel
These areas were designated as “mill seats”, where the power of the falling water could be harnessed.

Falls Mill and Wheel on Factory Creek, Belvidere, Tennessee

On Factory Creek
This was one of the first industrial sites in the county, and is a popular destination for visitors today.

Wooden shack Factory Creek, Belvidere TN USA

Tumble Down Shack

Upper Falls on Factory Creek, Belvidere TN USA

Upper Falls on Factory Creek

Old Machinery, Falls Mill, Belvidere TN USA

Old Machinery

Blacksmith, Falls Mill, Belvidere TN USA

Blacksmith
One of the old outbuildings still operates as a smithy, …

Blacksmith, Falls Mill, Belvidere TN USA

Fire in the Forge
… where local artisans come to fire up the forge …

Working a metal knife on an anvil, Falls Mill, Belvidere TN USA

Working the Metal
… and handcraft unique metal pieces.

Cortner Mill Restaurant, TN USA

Cortner Mill Restaurant
It seemed only fitting to finish the day at another reclaimed mill – this one converted to a restaurant … 

Waterfall on theDuck River Mill Stream, TN USA

Duck River
…overlooking the Mill Stream Falls on the Duck River. (iPhone6)

 

There are fewer things more refreshing than waterways through greenery!

Text: Safe Travels! UrsulaI can’t wait until we can all wander again…

Until next then,

Stay Safe!

Photos: 19May2016