Working Women Rebuilding after the devastation wrought on Patan’s Durbar Square by Nepal’s 25 April 2015 earthquake takes a lot of people-power. The task of unskilled labour is just as likely to go to the women.
Patan, or Lalitpur (ललितपुर), or Manigal, is an ancient Newari city of just over 200,000 people. It sits on the southern plateau of the Bagmati River, eight kilometers south of Kathmandu, and was – up until the conquest and unification in the late 1700s, under Prithvi Narayan Shah, the Gorkha Prince and future King of Nepal – it’s own kingdom.
The Malla Kings of Lalitpur, like those in the other two Newari kingdoms in the Kathmandu Valley: Bhaktapur (see: Joy among the Ruins and Living Heritage) and Kathmandu, focused their palace on a Durbar (Royal) Square comprising temples, shrines, open courts, water fountains, and private buildings. As I’ve noted before (see: City Of Devotion And Fine Arts), Patan was initially designed in the shape of the Buddhist Dharma-Chakra(Wheel of Righteousness). One of the oldest Buddhist cities in the world, it is also a center of Hinduism, and its collection of culturally meaningful and artistically beautiful buildings – as well as its reputation for fine craftsmanship – results in the city’s centre being a valued part of the Kathmandu ValleyUNESCO World Heritage-listing.
Most of the current architecture is from the 1600s, and this very antiquity probably contributed to the almost-complete destruction that Patan’s Durbar Square experienced during the 7.8 magnitude earthquake in Nepal on 25 April 2015.
When I visited almost two years later, the earthquake damage was still manifest: rubble was everywhere where the ancient buildings used to be. But, Patan has rich artistic traditions, and the craftsmanship that went into the carved wood, the ornate metalwork, and the sculpted stone in the original buildings is still available for the reconstruction process.
Nepal is among the least developed countries in the world, with over a quarter of the population defined as below poverty line, and a huge unskilled workforce. The up-side of this is that there is no shortage of unskilled labour to turn the brick piles recovered from precious temple ruins back into buildings.
And, people mostly do this with a smile.
Bird Woman For a small price, you can invest in bird food and good karma; …
Photographer Jack Kurtz and the Pigeons … visitors and locals alike take the opportunity to create goodwill.
Applying a Bindi People routinely stop into the temples around the square to make an offering, say a prayer, and apply a bindi.
Guardian Lions One of the reasons Patan is called “The City of Fine Arts” is the ornate craftsmanship decorating the buildings. The wood, stone, brick, and metalwork in this temple front is just one of countless examples around the square and beyond. A pair of guardian lions, believed to have mythic protective powers, flank the doorway.
Building Front Even the shophouses and residential buildings feature beautifully carved and freshly painted detailing.
Schoolgirl in the Street The city might be UNESCO-listed for its rich cultural history …
Students in the Street … but many of the people within it are youthful and forward-looking.
People in the Street The streets are busy with people going about their daily business.
Lions in the Shadows Another pair of guardian lions stand in front of the wreckage of Radha Krishna Temple, which collapsed in the April 2015 Nepal earthquake.
Swotha Krishna Mandir Right next to the ruins, the Swotha Krishna Mandir Temple stands without a mark …
Time Out – Swotha Krishna Mandir .. and life continues.
Temple Bell Contrasts are everywhere: a shiny new motorcycle sits parked in the laneway next to an ancient small shrine.
Scaffolding So many damaged buildings need propping up while they are being repaired.
Clay Tiles Bricks and tiles from earthquake-damaged buildings have been carefully removed and piled nearby.
Chyasi Deval Krishna Temple If you look one direction in Durbar Square, ancient temples stand tall. The Chyasi Deval Krishna Temple, behind the fountain here, is thought to date to 1723, under King Vishnu Malla. The eight-sided (Chyasim or Chyasing) structure was built in the Shikara style which is prominent in India, and is almost unscathed, …
Durbar Square Elephants … while other buildings nearby are in fenced-off ruins.
Men on the Stoop The Patan Palace itself has been repurposed as the Patan Museum, and the stoop outside seems to be a regular meeting place …
Men in their Dhaka Topi … for the local men, all in their colourful hand-spun cotton inlay-patterned Nepali hats.
Women Piling Bricks The painstaking labour-intensive work continues.
Woman and Cement Buckets Some of the women have been transporting cement buckets, using shoulder poles.
Laying Bricks Others are rebuilding old walls. While it might be impressive that these women are wearing hard-hats, you cannot see their feet – which are either shod in soft shoes or flip-flops.
Carrying Baskets of Bricks A common means of carrying things in Nepal is in woven wicker dokos (baskets) on head straps called namlo.
Working Women Once the baskets are empty, they are easily carried by hand or on ones shoulders.
Bricks and Bare Feet It takes many loads of bricks to rebuild an earthquake-ravaged city, so the women keep working.
It is back-breaking work, but there is a sense of pride in it: for these people are rebuilding their own precious heritage.
I hope to go back one day, and see the Square returned to its former glory.
Hikers on the Alevia Circular Route Overcast skies and misty rains can’t dampen my spirits when I am hiking on top of the world!
Sometimes Facebook ads get it right!
I am always looking for walks in interesting places. And, I had been wanting to study a language again.
But, I honestly can’t remember if I saw the ad in the corner of my consciousness before I decided on studying Spanish, or if I had decided on Spanish first…
Either way, at the most opportune time, pictures from a Spanish language school in the north of Spain (Peak Me) came through came through my Facebook feed. They were offering morning language classes, and afternoon walks walks in the Picos de Europa mountains through their partners (Canoe Adventure Trophy). It was a perfect combination! I was already planning a trip to England to visit family; once there, a week in Spain would be an easy side trip.
Of course, even in Europe (and even in the days before Covid-19), short flights between countries meant long drives to out-of-the-way airports and late-night or crack-of-dawn departures. The drives to and from Stansted Airport were much longer than the flight to and from Santander Airport in Cantabria. It was late, and I was travel-weary, when I finally reached my bed in Panes in Asturias.
On our first day of class I discovered that what little Spanish I thought I knew was either French or Italian! Never mind – they really do cater for beginners, and I wasn’t the only one.
Our first afternoon walk was around the Alevia Loop: just over seven kilometres, with an altitude gain of 334 metres. The beauty of this walk is that those who are faster and/or fitter can decide to hike to the top of Picu Paisana and back, at around the half-way mark. Clearly, that wasn’t for our group of jet-lagged folk; our guide Vivi made the decision to take it easy on us. Just as well, as sporadic rains slowed our pace further.
Join me for a delightful walk, high in the mountains of Northern Spain!
Iglesia de San Antonio The small chapel above the town of Alevia is as far as our transport can go: from here we walk up into the mountains.
Nuestro Guíe Vivi We had a delightful guide, who – although she was instructed to make us practice our Spanish – was fully conversant in English.
View over Alevia Just a short drive away from our base in Panes, the town of Alevia is pretty little place …
The Cares-Deva Valley … high enough to afford views over the Cares-Deva Valley.
Into the Woods The path starts out through the trees …
View from the Trail … but we soon have views of the peaks across the valley.
Marine Thistle – Eryngium Maritimum There is plenty of interesting vegetation to look at when you want to catch your breath.
Clambering up the Mountainside Sections of the trail are quite steep!
Lunch Break I don’t usually include photos of me, but how could I resist this one?
Well-Fed Cow The cattle in these alpine meadows are clearly finding enough grass!
Mountain Hut Ruins The meadow is littered with limestone rock and the ruins of old huts.
Cow and Calf The cows all watch us warily …
Rocks and Ruins … as we explore remnants of the past.
Abandoned Mine
Walkers on the Ridge As we circle around clockwise, …
Unquera Cantabria … we can see across Cantabria to the Bay of Biscay.
Horse in a Stony Corral
People on the Path The path winds down gently, rewarding us for our earlier hard work.
Village Below Soon enough, the red clay roofs of the village come into clear view …
Peak across the Valley … and we see that distinctive peak across the valley, shrouded in misty rain.
Alevia Street The streets of the village are clean and colourful.
From the Church Yard Back at the church, I again admire the view, …
Alcove … and check out the details around the chapel before returning to the van for the short drive home.
It was a wonderful introduction to some beautiful countryside – and I certainly slept well!
[…] you remember one of my previous posts from this area (see: Ruta Alevia), you’ve probably never heard of Panes, a tiny parish of 568 people in the Peñamellera […]ReplyCancel
Riding in the Footsteps of Genghis Khan They say that Kazakhs can ride before they can walk – so it is no surprise that most of the games at the Golden Eagle Festival take place on horseback.
The Kazakh people of Western Mongolia practically live on horseback.
For hundreds of years, Kazakh nomads had been roaming across the Altai Mountains – between what is now Mongolia and Kazakhstan – riding their small but hardy Kazakh horses (similar to Mongolian horses, but daintier), herding their fat-tailed sheep, horses, cattle, goats, Bactrian camels, and domestic yaks across long distances.
Communist control over Kazakhstan during the 1930s caused large numbers of Kazakhs to flee, and to settle more permanently in Bayan-Ölgii Aimag in the western corner of Mongolia. Once there, relative isolation allowed them to keep alive their Kazakh language, animist beliefs, Muslim religion, and rich cultural traditions.
The horse is central to Kazakh identity as a nomadic people, and features heavily in their rituals, language, art, and even their cuisine. Horses are loved and revered as providers of transportation, food, labour and companionship, and every Kazakh in the extended household has their favourite.
Today, most Kazakhs in Western Mongolia maintain a traditional lifestyle, typically moving their animals – and their gers: their round tents – three or four times a year to find new grazing pastures in this high, cold, and windy landscape with rocky soil and minimal rainfall. Warmth and colour in what is otherwise a harsh environment comes from richly embroidered clothing, tapestries, and blankets, sewn together from the lush furs of the hunted winter fox, felted from combed out camel under-coat, or cut and stitched, using the soft skins of sheep slaughtered for food and pelts. Social evenings are spent in blanket-lined gers, around fires of wood and manure, drinking airag (fermented mare’s milk), arkhi (cow’s milk vodka), or straight vodka, and singing songs accompanied by a two-string dombra (see: At Home with the Kazakhs).
Kazakh nomads are known for their skills as riders and horse-back hunters – skills that are demonstrated by the traditional horseback games on the programme at the annual autumn Golden Eagle Festival in Bayan-Ölgii Province. This festival signals the beginning of the hunting season, and is a chance to show off one’s traditional dress and one’s riding and hunting skills. It gives the community the chance to foster those skills amongst the young, and to promote them to outsiders to encourage tourist dollars. Perhaps most importantly, it allows people who have been wandering on distant plateaus with only their animals and immediate family for company, to come together and socialise.
The year I attended this colourful event, there were 98 eagle hunters participating: a small contingent of whom had crossed the border from Kazakhstan, and a few who were women. In addition, there were assorted camel riders, horse racers, and countless others in the entourages (see: It’s Not Just Birds).
But, like any good nomad, they all knew how to ride a horse!
“Port-A-Loo” The facilities at the festival grounds are rustic – to put it mildly! This is the ‘toilet block’: three wooden platforms with short-drop holes, enclosed on three sides by a shielding cloth.
Kids at the Fairgrounds At the ger camp, where the competitors and vendors are staying, pink-cheeked children watch me with curiosity.
Kiz Kuar – “Girl Chasing” Meanwhile, back in the ring, young men and women have entered the Kiz Kuar, …
Couple Racing … while I’ve seen Kiz Kuar translated as “girl chasing”, it is the young women who are doing the chasing.
Kazakh Couple Horseback The woman is meant to chase the man with her whip swinging, …
Whip Chase … and when she catches him, she is meant to ’embarrass him’ with a kiss.
Chasing your Man The fastest pair around the circuit win. The couples, who have already been judged on the merits of their traditional dress, are clearly having a blast!
Wild Rider Being female and wearing frills is no impediment to being able to ride like the wind! While men and women have differing ‘roles’ in society, it has been said that being on horseback is a great equaliser, and the women in Mongolia’s nomadic groups have always had a level of respect and autonomy not enjoyed by many of their neighbours.
Kazakh Horses When the winning couples have been declared, the horses are temporarily left aside …
Rich Costuming … and everyone rejoins in the middle for a dance party.
Dance Party Naturally, the eagles are invited …
Circling … and some of the horses join in, galloping around the perimeter.
Elder Couple Dancing This wonderful old couple has seen a few seasons dancing together!
Hunter and his Eagle The búrkitshy or berkutchi – as eagle hunters are called in the Kazakh language – and their búrkit, or golden eagles, …
Kazakh Hunter and his Golden Eagle … are everywhere, and are the stars of the festival.
Kokpar (Kuk-Bar) In the next contest, the headless body of a dead sheep is placed in the middle of the ring, …
Sheep Grab … a rider bends to pick the sheepskin up from the ground, …
Sheep-Chase … and tries to get it to a point in the arena without losing it to the other team.
Sheep-Fight The tug-of-war over the sheep …
Sheep-Tug … is dramatic …
Sheep-Grab … and vigorous.
Sheep Grab The contest over the sheepskin was repeated a number of times with different participants.
Refereeing the Kokpar I was never clear on the rules: sometimes one hunter had a head start with the sheep, other times a second rider was there to interfere. Clearly there are rules, however. With their whistles around their necks, referees keep a close watch on the action.
Tug-of-War
Sheep-Wrestle I continue to marvel at how these riders managed to stay on their horses! We left as the awards were being announced over an undecipherable sound system, in awe of the ability of all the riders.
Last Look at my Ger With the festival over, it’s time for a last sleep in my blanket-lined ger, …
Mountains Below … and a morning flight back to Ulaanbaatar over empty-looking mountains. (iPhone)
Somewhere down there, nomads are herding their animals, and hunting winter furs. In the words of a Kazakh proverb I’ve quoted before:
“A fast horse and a soaring eagle
are the wings of a nomad.”
Kara Youth in Beads Although the Kara people of the Lower Omo Valley love their face and body paint, one of my favourite pictures from their village is this one of a clean-skinned youth, free of clay paint and ritual scarring.
Ethiopia is a big country: at 1,104,300 sq km, it is number 28 in the world in terms of area. And, it remains – despite recent progress in alleviating extreme poverty – one of the poorest countries in the world (CIA World Factbook).
So, local infrastructure is not what it might be, and the country is not particularly easy to get around!
What continued to amaze me was how distinctive each of these groups was!
On our sixth day in the country, we hopped into four-wheel drives after breakfast, and drove north again, deep into the heart of Kara(Karo) territory. A beautiful, fully equipped campsite had been set up for us (Grand Holidays Ethiopia) in shady forested clearing along the Omo River, not far from Dus Village. This gave us unique access to the Kara people, Ethiopia’s smallest ethnic group, but possibly one of the most popular. They are well known for their decorative face- and body-painting in chalk and ochre.
There are about 100,000 members of the Kara ethnic group, but most live in South Sudan or the Central African Republic. In Ethiopia, there are only about 1400, living across three villages on the left bank of the Omo River. As speakers of an Omotic language, they are loosely affiliated with the Hamar people; this puts them at odd with the more aggressive and more numerous Nilo-Saharan-speaking Nyangatom who live on the other side of the river.
Join me on an excursion into Kara territory.
Worker – Buska Lodge After breakfast in Turmi, we farewell the staff there and hit the road. (iPhone6)
Driving Ethiopian Roads The roads on the east side of the Omo River into Kara territory are dirt tracks …
Dusty Tracks … that lead into the jungle. At one point we had to stop and remove fallen trees before we could pass.
Dus Mobile Camp After a challenging drive, it was lovely arriving at our beautiful campsite, which was set up and ready for us in a shady clearing in the forest along the Omo River in the heart of Kara land.
Home Away from Home My tent in the Dus Camp was airy and spacious.
Dus Kara Village When we drove to the nearby Kara village in the afternoon, the rains came …
Escaping the Rain … and the locals huddled under the eaves of a community building to protect their face- and body-paint. Kara people enjoy decorating their bodies and faces daily with coloured ochre, white chalk, yellow mineral rock, charcoal, and pulverised iron ore.
Kara Man Kara men paint their faces and bodies in white chalk on special occasions. A brief gap in the rain allows a natural-light shot of a man in his ceremonial paint.
Kara Village The rains have made little impression on the dry landscape. Although all the homes are the traditional conical huts (ono) we saw on entering the village, there are a few more modern buildings scattered around, …
Looking into the Schoolhouse … including a simple schoolhouse.
Looking out through the Schoolhouse Windows With the weather being so chancy, we take shelter in the school and set up a a black cloth and a soft-box lighting system to take some “studio” shots of the youngsters who have gone to so much trouble with their body art.
Kara Girl Men, women, boys, and girls, all engage in creating and wearing symbolic and artistic body and/or face decorations.
Painted Children The decorations can be elaborate and detailed, or rough, but striking paintings traced with the palms or fingers.
Kara Youth in Beads and Paint The patterns can change daily, and there is a vast lexicon of painting motifs to choose from.
Face Paint and Beads Even so, some common themes emerge.
Dawn in the Dus Village We returned to the village early the next morning to learn more about the Kara and their customs.
Ceremony House Only initiated men are allowed into this structure – in fact, only initiated men …
Kara Elder in his Ostrich Feather … like this elder, are even allowed to touch it! A friendly, but watchful, eye was kept on us, lest we got too close.
Kara Family
Men in Body Paint With these men side by side, you can see the different body paint patterns in use.
Man in Face Paint The notch in the man’s left ear was given to him after initiation to symbolise his ability to listen to tribal secrets.
Woman with Flowers Men and women make an incision below their bottom lip and often insert straw or wood – or in this case flowers – into it.
Pensive Young Woman
Automatic and a Skull Cap Kara share many similarities with their Hamar cousins. Men who have killed an enemy from another tribe or a dangerous animal are entitled to wear an ochre clay cap with an ostrich feather. All men need to own an AK47 before they marry, so they can prove their ability to protect their village and herds.
Young Woman in a Hut The huts are hot and dark, even mid-morning. With a helper and an off-camera flash, I manage a few shots of this solemn young woman before we all have to get outside where it is slightly cooler.
The Kara are a beautiful and fascinating people – fortunately, with our tents set up so close, we were able to return to this village several times.
In this era of being confined within my own borders, I look forward to reviewing more of my photos from these visits.
[…] of times, and therefore could spend time with the locals as they went about their daily lives (see: Visits to a Kara Village and The Kara of Dus […]ReplyCancel
[…] meant we had proximity to the largest of the three Kara villages. We visited it several times (eg: Visits to a Kara Village) and spent some meaningful time with these beautiful people in their own […]ReplyCancel
Headless Pharaoh Holding tightly to a pair of ankhs, or the keys of life, a headless statue stands tall in the Karnak temple complex near Luxor, Egypt.
So much of Ancient Egypt was about one’s relationship to the Gods and the afterlife. And, so much art and architecture dedicated to these relationships remains to be explored today.
From the mind-blowing pyramids at Giza (see: Stories in Ancient Stone) to the amazing tombs in the Valley of the Kings (see: The Writing on the Walls, and Take me to the Afterlife) and the stunningly beautiful mortuary temple for Hatshepsut (see: The Queen who would be Pharaoh), every hieroglyph, every statue, and every wall and column says something about the Egyptians’ complex belief system about immortality.
Nowhere is this more in evidence than at Karnak, a temple complex on the east bank of the Nile River, just 2.5 km north of Luxor. Part of the UNESCO-listed “Ancient Thebes with its Necropolis”, this crumbling collection of temples, chapels, pylons, and other buildings, stretches over two square kilometres, forming the largest temple complex in Egypt and one of the largest in the world. The Temple of Amun-Ra at the heart of the Karnak complex vies with Angkor Wat in Cambodia for position as the largest single religious building in the world.
Added to and altered for well over a thousand years, the site has been called a great historical document in stone. From the beginning of the Middle Kingdom (2040 – 1782 BCE), through the New Kingdom (1570 – 1069 BCE) and into the Ptolemaic Dynasty (323 – 30 BCE), successive Egyptian rulers affixed their own architectural stamps to the complex, defacing the contributions of their predecessors and building over ruins of monuments in honour of the God Amun-Ra thought to date to the Old Kingdom (c. 2613 – c. 2181 BCE). Even Alexander the Great left his mark here, decorating an inner chapel.
The temples are principally dedicated to the Theban god-triad: Amun, the father-god, god of the sun; Mut, mother-goddess and god of ‘everything’ in the world; and Khonsu, lunar child-god, god of the moon.
Join me for a wander around this extraordinary complex:
Morning on the Nile Staying on a boat on the Nile made me feel like I was in the middle of an Agatha Christie novel. (iPhone6)
Model of Karnak At the entry to the extensive Karnak Temple Complex, visitors get a chance to appreciate an overview.
Entering Karnak The First Pylon, a monumental gateway of tapering towers leading into the temple complex, was the last pylon to be built at Karnak, and was never finished and decorated.
Rams at the Entrance to Karnak The entry to Karnak is flanked by criosphinxes, sphinxes with the bodies of lions and the heads of rams. The god Amun is depicted as having the head of a ram with curved horns.
Criosphinx Weathered and worn, each criosphinx protects a small figures of a Pharaoh – thought by most to be Ramses II – in the pose of Osiris.
Phalanx of Criosphinxes The row of ram-headed sphinxes leads the eyes to one of the obelisks on the site.
Sun through the Gates It is nine o’clock in the morning. It seems only fitting that the sun should greet us as we enter the first gate into a temple dedicated to the sun god.
Sparrow in the Wall
The First Court Once we are through the massive pylon, the space opens out.
Barque Shrines of Seti II Barque stations or shrines were resting places for the statues of the gods when they were journeying outside the temple during festival processions. The First Court houses the shrines of Seti II and Ramses III. I liked leaving people in my pictures: it allowed me to appreciate the grand scale that even these smaller temples are built on.
Sweeper in the Courtyard More criosphinxes grace the courtyard.
Guides in the Courtyard When I visited, tourism was still down following the Arab Spring, and many guides hung around chatting and hoping for work. I can’t imagine how they are managing this year!
Hieroglyphs on the Pillars Intricate detail is everywhere; it is too much to take in! The guide books recommend you visit more than once.
Tourist in a Courtyard Doorways and portals lead off in all directions.
Pillars of the Hypostyle Hall The Hypostyle Hall – literally, a great hall whose roof rests on pillars or columns – it truly amazing!
Sandstone Pillars The 134 sandstone columns represent papyrus stalks, as they reach for the sky where the roof once was.
Writing on the Pillars At the beginning of creation, Amun arose from the waters of chaos in the primeval papyrus swamp.
Hieroglyphs on the Pillars Every square inch tells a story.
Sandstone Stories According to scholars who can actually read them, the reliefs and inscriptions in the Great Hypostyle Hall provide us with an encyclopedia of Egyptian civilisation.
Pharaoh in the Nook
Hatshepsut’s Obelisk Hatshepsut had two obelisks created for Karnak – this 0ne, the tallest surviving ancient obelisk on earth – still stands.
Obelisk in the Blue An obelisk is a tall, four-sided, narrow, tapering monument which ends in a pyramid-like shape at the top. Obelisks symbolised rebirth and were used as funerary monuments. Pairs were also placed at the entrances of temples. Each obelisk was carved from a single piece of stone – typically red or rose granite from the quarries at Aswān – and then moved to its location and raised onto a base.
Hieroglyph Detail Obelisks are carved with hieroglyphs that include religious dedications to the sun god and commemorations of the rulers – in this case Hatshepsut.
Iconography Protected portions of the complex retain some of the original colour. These must have been brilliantly vibrant when they were fresh!
Inside Alexander’s Temple One of the most colourful corners of the complex is the sanctuary decorated by Alexander the Great.
Akh Menou Temple Otherwise known as the Festival Hall of Thutmose III, the morning sun is already hot when we walk through the Akh Menou Temple, …
Patterned Shadows … and the shadows are strong. (iPhone6)
Seated Pharaoh Tuthmosis III (also known as Thutmose III, 1458-1425 BCE) was the 6th king of Egypt’s 18th Dynasty. Stepson to Hatchepsut, he became a great military and was one of Egypt’s most effective rulers.
A date palm and a faceless pharaoh: it seemed a fitting last image from a temple complex with more stories than I can comprehend.
But, learning some of the history of Ancient Egypt through its sculpture, art, and architecture is an absolute joy!
I look forward to the days when we can explore again.
[…] a morning spent exploring Karnak Temple (see: In Worship of Ancient Gods), I had just enough time to wander some of the market streets in Luxor before our boat set sail. […]ReplyCancel
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
I hope to go back one day, and see the Square returned to its former glory.
Until then,
