Portrait: Indian woman in a red Ghoonghat, Haridwar.

Woman in a Red Ghoonghat
India is about colour: everywhere you look, people in colourful clothing contrast wildly with colour-washed walls and chaotic backgrounds.

India is an intensely sensory experience.

For me – a Westerner who grew up in a conservative culture of lowered voices and subdued shades in the northern prairie lands of snow and open spaces – the colours, the smells, the heat, and the press of the crowds in India can quickly lead to sensory overload. This is especially true during festival times.

But, I love it!

Here in Australia at the moment – thanks to the Novel Coronavirus – we are entering our sixth month of restricted movements, with the Australian borders closed to virtually all international travel in or out. Even our internal borders are closed, and many communities are enduring weeks of strict lockdown. All my travel plans for the the year have had to be postponed or cancelled.

So, the only way I can travel is vicariously by exploring archives of old images. What better antidote for Social Distancing than to return to pictures I took during what has been called the world’s biggest religious gathering: India’s Kumbh Mela.

The Kumbh Mela or Kumbha Mela is a major Hindu pilgrimage and festival. According to the story, back when the gods lived on the earth, they fought continuously with demons over a pot (kumbha) of amrita, the nectar or elixir of immortality. During the struggle, drops of the elixir fell on four earthly sites: Allahabad (the confluence of the Ganges and Yamuna Sarasvati Rivers), Haridwar (Ganges), Nashik (Godavari), and Ujjain (Shipra). Roughly every three years, the Sun, the Moon, and Jupiter line up over one of these sites, and the associated rivers turn back into the original primordial nectar. Pilgrims bathing in the sacred waters at these auspicious times are eternally blessed by the divine, and their sins are washed away.

So, when the Hindu Holy Men calculate the propitious dates, the Hindu pilgrims come. They come from all over India. They come to bathe and pray, and they come to transport water from the sacred rivers home with them.

I – along with photographers Gavin Gough and Matt Brandon and a small group of intrepid photography enthusiasts – was one of the more than 10 million people who descended upon the ancient city of Haridwar in Uttarakhand, North India to attended the 2010 Kumbh Mela

There, amid the crush of bodies, my cameras and I revelled in the colours of the occasion.

Indian woman in colourful ghoonghats outside a shop, Haridwar.

Colours of India
Colour is everywhere: in the bright and wildly patterned saris and ghoonghats (headscarves), in the vibrantly painted walls of the old brick buildings, and in the chaotic array of goods for sale.

Detail: Shisha Mirror Embroidery, India

Shisha Mirror Embroidery
Many of the fabrics people wear are elaborately embroidered with rich threads and and small mirrors.

Portrait: Indian woman in a cream headscarf, Haridwar

Pilgrim in Cream
Even the more subdued colours are lit up by the smiles of their wearers.

Portrait: Indian woman in a Lace Trim Bordered headscarf, Haridwar

Lace Trim Border
Cotton lace edging frames faces and contrasts with the main fabric.

Detail: Hands and gold bangles of an Indian woman, Haridwar

Hands
Women carry their wealth in the gold bangles they wear. More than one woman I met thought me rather ‘poor’ because of the lack of gold jewellery on my person!

Portrait: sadhu in orange, with dreadlocked hair, Haridwar India

Sadhu in Orange
The Holy Men come in a range of colours and styles. Check out that hair!

Portrait: smiling Indian woman in purple and green headscarf, Haridwar

Colourful Scarf
Everywhere I go, I meet smiling faces and a direct gaze.

Orange bridge over the Ganges, Haridwar

Orange Bridge over the Ganges
Even the bridges across the sacred mother Ganga are brightly painted.

Sadhu walking with a stick, Haridwar India

Sadhu on the Move
Some of the pilgrims have walked for days to get here …

Portrait: smiling Indian woman in a red and green headscarf, Haridwar

Time Out
… so a break with friends is always welcome.

An Indian police officer overlooking the Kumb Mela tent village, Haridwar.

Overlooking the Camp
To handle the massive influx of humanity, a vast tented camp area has been set up. Monitoring is low-key, and performed by local police in subdued uniforms.

Lady in Red
Sheer fabrics often act as a face cover – but the gaze is still direct.

Colourful fabrics hanging on a clothesline, Haridwar India

Fresh Laundry
Saris, turbans, and ghoonghats all require metres of colourful cloth.

Portrait: Indian woman in a red bindi and headscarf, Haridwar

Women in Bindis
Red forehead dots (bindis) placed on the third eye of spiritual sight are commonly worn by married women, particularly Hindus and Jains, across the subcontinent.

Portrait: Smiling sadhu in a Tilaka, Haridwar India

Sadhu in a Tilaka
While bindis have a range of uses and meanings, tilak or tilaka are more specific, acting as a holy mark of religious affiliation. The three lines are a reminder of the various sacred triads in Hindu thought.

Portrait: Indian child in dark sunglasses, Haridwar

Child in Sunnies
Pilgrims come in all ages.

Portrait: Indian women in colourful headscarves, Haridwar

Women in a Tent
In the dim shade of fabric tent a group of women have gathered. They invite me to join them.

Portrait: Indian woman in a purple tent, Haridwar

Woman in a Purple Tent
The purple fabric contrasts with the women’s colourful headscarves.

Portrait: Indian woman in a colourful headscarf, Haridwar

Colourful Woman
The woman are all smiles and chatter …

Portrait: Indian woman in a purple tent, Haridwar

Indian Woman
… and there is plenty of food and drink in the tent with them.

Portrait: Indian woman in a blue ghoonghat, Haridwar

Woman in Blue

Portrait: Indian woman in yellow, Haridwar

Young Woman in Yellow
The purple fabric casts interesting lights on the young women in the tent.

A corrugated iron fence and three women seated in saris, Haridwar India

A Splash of Sari Colour
Back outside, the light and heat bounce off the corrugated iron sheeting that lines the corridors of the pilgrim’s camp.

Portrait: Indian Mother and Daughter in the bright light of noon, Haridwar India

Mother and Daughter

Crowds on the bathing ghats, Haridwar India

On the Bathing Ghats
In Hindi, a ghat is the “river landing stairs”, and the place where pilgrims gather to bathe in the Ganges as it races past.

Portrait: Young woman on the Ghats, Haridwar

Young Woman on the Ghats

Portrait: Woman in an Ornamental Bindi, Haridwar India

Woman in an Ornamental Bindi

Portrait: Indian woman in a colourful headscarf, Haridwar

The Face of Experience

Rusty bars outside the rail line, Haridwar India

Rusty Rails
Away from the ghats, crowds are thinner, but the colours and textures continue.

Child on a blue and yellow balcony, Haridwar India

Child on a Balcony
As I make my way back through the arterial roads, a child watches my retreat from overhead.

It was time for me to return to the relative quite of my small room.

As I said, as much as I love the colours of India, they overwhelm me, and I have to retreat.

But, I’ll be back!

As soon as our travel bans are lifted …

Photos: 13April2010

Dingo on Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Dingo on Seventy-Five Mile Beach
Fraser Island, off Southern Queensland’s east coast, is home to several packs of wild dingos (Canis lupus). This makes the UNESCO-listed sand island one of the best places in Australia to see them in their natural habitat.

Fraser Island is a unique and wonderful place; it is a poem in sand, punctuated by the occasional sculptured rock.

I’m not much of a geology student, but the landscape of Fraser Island is a living, pulsing thing that transcends time. As written in the UNESCO-World Heritage listing, the “immense sand dunes are part of the longest and most complete age sequence of coastal dune systems in the world and are still evolving”. The system dates back at least 700,000 years, and some of the dunes may be 400,000 years old. The sculpting of the magnificent silica sand blows by the wind is ongoing today, changing the island’s profile as we watch (see: Airways, Highways, and Waterways).

The world’s largest sand island, Fraser Island was formed over hundreds of thousands of years as winds, ocean currents, and waves swept sands north from the continental shelf of Eastern Australia, and deposited them over the remenants of an ancient terrain of sedimentary rocks from the Cretaceous age and volcanic rocks from the Mesozoic or Tertiary periods. The outcrops that have resurfaced –  including the volcanic formations at Indian Head, Middle Rocks and Waddy Point – only add up to a very small portion of the island’s total 184,000 hectares of land mass.

Some of the older, underlying layers of sands have been stained shades of yellow, brown, and red by the iron-rich minerals deposited with them. When portions of those layers of sand are compressed and bound together with clay, they form a weakly consolidated mass. Over thousands of years, rain and wind have rubbed surface layers away, exposing this soft older core; at The Pinnacles this has resulted in subtly coloured sculpted forms.

Sand is notoriously low in the nutrients essential to plant growth, but in spite of this, Fraser Island is home to a diversity of spectacular vegetation (see: Into a Pristine Past). This, in turn has evolved to support a range of insects, reptiles, amphibians, birds, and almost 50 identified species of mammals – including the iconic Australian dingo (Canis lupus).

There are 25 – 30 stable individual dingo packs on Fraser Island, which gives the visitor a good likelihood of spotting at least one. To preserve their ‘wildness’ it is an offence to feed, harm, or encourage them. The animals on the island have not crossbred with domestic or feral dogs as extensively as mainland populations, and so are thought to be the purest strain on the eastern Australian seaboard – and possibly in the country.

Come and enjoy the landscapes of Fraser Island, and some of the flora and fauna that live there.

Seventy Five Mile Beach from a tour bus window, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Seventy Five Mile Beach from the Bus
Where else in the world is a straight sandy beach part of the national highway system? Seventy Five Mile Beach Road, also known as the Fraser Island Beach Track, runs almost the entire length of the island along the east coast. (07June2019)

People at the entry to the Pinnacles, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

The Pinnacles Entry
At the entry to The Pinnacles walkway, visitors read how the coloured sands were formed when the Rainbow Serpent of the Butchulla people was killed by his lover’s jealous husband.

the Pinnacles, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

The Pinnacles
Also called Coloured Sands, the 72 different colours counted in The Pinnacles are from the different levels of iron in the sand and clay – or they might be from the thousands of pieces of shattered Rainbow Serpent that fell to the earth.

Person on the sandy pathway through the Pinnacles, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Pathway at the Pinnacles
The coloured sandstone layers were muted under the overcast sky. The trail is lined by she-oaks and pandanus palms.

Tyre tracks in white sand, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Treads in the Sand : Middle Rocks
All the roads on Fraser Island are sand. You need a 4WD, a special permit, and a fair bit of skill to navigate them.

People on the Walkway to Champagne Pools, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Windswept Walkway : Middle Rocks
Not far from The Pinnacles, but in a very different vegetation zone, we follow a windswept wooden walkway to Champagne Pools.

View of Indian Head from Middle Rocks, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

View to Indian Head
Much of the small percentage of rock found on Fraser Island is here on the east coast. From the boardwalk, we can look south to Indian Head

View to Waddy Point from Middle Rocks, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

View from the Walkway
… and north to Waddy Point.

People on the Rocks at Champagne Pools, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Look, but don’t swim!
The waters around Fraser Island are home to marine stingers, dangerous currents, and a large shark population.

Stairs at Champagne Pools, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Stairs at Champagne Pools
The pools at Waddy Point are sandy-bottomed and almost completely surrounded by shallow rocks, making them the only place on the island where swimming in ocean water is safe, and allowed.

People on the Rocks at Champagne Pools, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

On the Rocks
The sharpness of the vocanic rocks that surround the Champagne Pools are in stark contrast with the beautiful silica sand most of the island is made from.

Two young women in the water, Champagne Pools, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Champagne Pools
Every crashing wave aerates the water in the pools like a delightful jacuzzi.

Two young women in the water, Champagne Pools, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Girls in the Bubbles

Yellow flowers, Middle Rocks, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Flowers on the Track
The short “Imagine Walk” at Middle Rocks is lined with flowers …

Banksia
… and low shrubs.

Pink Pig Face, Middle Rocks, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Pig Face – Carpobrotus Glaucescens

Yellow Guinea Flower, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Guinea Flower – Hibbertia

Dingo on Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Dingo on the Beach
It is an offense to feed the animals, but this one still thought she might find some scraps from our picnic lunch.

Dingo on Seventy-Five Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Wild Dingo – Canis Lupus
They are such intelligent looking creatures! While dingos don’t generally attack humans, they can be dangerous, especially to small children.

Rocks on Indian Head, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Viewpoint on Tukkee Wurroo – Indian Head
The rocky outcrop at Tukkee Wurroo is very different in colour and texture from that at Middle Rocks.

White-bellied Sea Eagle, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

White-Bellied Sea Eagle
A sea eagle circles overhead …

Waves on the Rocks, Indian Head, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Waves on the Rocks
… and the sea foams below.

Looking south over Fraser Island from Indian Head, Queensland Australia

Fraser Island Landscape
Looking south from the vantage point of Indian Head, you can see how swathes of vegetation alternate with stretches of bare sand.

Walkway at Eli Creek, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Walkway at Eli Creek
Our last stop was at Eli Creek

Young women in bathing suits on the Walkway, Eli Creek Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Girls on the Walkway
… where a 200m wooden walkway takes you up the island’s largest freshwater creek.

Walkway at Eli Creek, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Waters under the Walkway
They say the waters in the creek take more than a 100 years to filter through the sand, making them among the purest of the world.

People walking in Eli Creek, Fraser Island, Queensland Austra

People in the Creek
It was raining while we were there – which is hardly a problem if you plan to walk downstream …

Two young women riding inner tubes, Eli Creek, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Rafting on Eli Creek
… or raft down the fast-moving waters. The creek pours up to four million litres of water into the ocean every hour.

Catamaran on the Great Sandy Strait, Fraser Island, Queensland Australia

Evening on the Great Sandy Strait
Sadly, it was time to leave the island. The light was low over the waters as we waited for the ferry back to the mainland.

It is truly a rich and beautiful island, worthy of its UNESCO listing, and of our respect and protection.

Text: Take only Pictures

As the Queensland Government Parks say, the challenge is to balance the conservation of the region’s natural and cultural assets with increasing demands for access and tourism.

I hope they manage, because I want to go back!

Until then,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 08June2019

Portrait: Western Highland Papuan Woman in a bilum hat ans shell necklace.

Western Highland Woman
Proud, fierce, and carrying their weight in valuable shells; the Highland women of Papua New Guinea can hold their own!

The grassy fields outside the Mt Hagen Showgrounds were dotted with clumps of people gathered around jars of body paint and suitcases full of precious feathers. In the Western Highlands of Papua New Guinea, the annual Mt Hagen Cultural Show was soon to start, and tribal performers from all over the neighbouring Highlands provinces – and even some from the coastal regions – were preparing their unique costumes.

I was excited!

I had attended the Paiya Village Mini Show the two days previously, and had watched a number of performers get ready for that (e.g.: Paiya Village Mini Show), but the long-standing Mt Hagen festival is much larger, and was expecting over 70 cultural groups. Several of these were in front of me, in the morning paddocks, going through the painstaking process of constructing their traditional outfits.

It was overwhelming! So many groups and so much colour!

I decided to focus first on the Western Highland women, and spend some time with them as they layered on their heavy shell necklaces, fashioned skirts out of long leaves, constructed elaborate feathered headdresses, and painted their faces in bold red, white, and blue.

In some ways it reminded me of the days when my daughter was dancing in concerts and eisteddfods: we would arrive early at some strange school auditorium or gymnasium and, grouped together with the rest of her troupe in a corner or a hallway, go through the arduous job of combing-out and hair-spraying curls, re-applying makeup, and conducting quick, between-routine costume changes.

Unlike our costumes, however, the leaves, grass, feathers, and paint these women were applying to themselves and each other represented age-old community traditions, that are today reserved for sing sings, these regular tribal gatherings of dance and song.

Join me!

Western Highland Papuan women outside the Mt Hagen Show Grounds, PNG

Outside the Mt Hagen Show Grounds
The fields outside the show grounds are a hive of activity as people prepare for their performances.

Portrait: Western Highland Papuan Woman in a bilum hat ans shell necklace.

Western Highland Woman
The bilum hat, traditionally made by looping or crocheting plant fibres or cotton, provides the foundation for the feathers which will be added later.

Detail: Western Highland shell necklace, Papua New Guinea

Shells
We are a long way from the ocean – especially considering the jungle-clad, mountainous terrain and the absence of arterial roads. These shells have been traded for, and are considered precious.

Western Highland woman helping a child in a feathered headdress, Papua New Guinea

Helping the Child
I love watching the children, as their elders help them take part in age-old traditions.

Portrait: Western Highland Child in a Feathered Headdress, Papua New Guinea

Western Highland Child

Detail: Back of a Western Highland woman

Necklace Detail

Portrait: Western Highland Woman in Shell necklace, Papua New Guinea

Woman in Shells
The smiles are infectious.

Kina Moka Shell Shields, Papua New Guinea

Kina Moka Shell Shields
Today, these highly valued breast plates are symbolic; …

Western Highland woman and her Kina Moka Shell Shield, Papua New Guinea

Woman and her Kina Moka Shell
… traditionally, they were used for barter. Papua New Guinea money is still called kina.

Western Highland women getting ready outside the Mt Hagen Show Grounds, PNG

Western Highland Women Getting Ready
Like the women’s costumes, the building behind them is a work in progress. Change is coming slowly to these regions.

Woman with a Suitcase Full of Feathers, Mt Hagen Show Grounds, PNG

Suitcase Full of Feathers
Fortunately for the birds of paradise and the rare parrots in the mountains around here, …

Feathers standing in styrofoam blocks, Mt Hagen Show Grounds, PNG

Preserving the Feathers
… the feathers that go into the ornate headdresses are carefully looked after between sing sings.

Detail: Hands fixing a shell belt, Papua New Guinea

Hands at Work

Portrait: Western Highland Woman in Shell necklace, Papua New Guinea

Contemplation

Western Highland Woman in Blue and White face paint, Papua New Guinea

Blue and White
Time has passed – the face painting is starting to take shape.

Western Highland Woman fixing feathers to a headdress, Papua New Guinea

Fixing Feathers
And, the meticulous process of building the massive headdress begins.

Western Highland Woman fixing feathers to a headdress, Papua New Guinea

Building a Headdress
Notice the traditional tattoos across this woman’s face.

Western Highland Woman applying face paint, Papua New Guinea

Eye in the Mirror

Western Highland Woman applying face paint, Papua New Guinea

Check the Mirror!
I’ve said it before: if I ever get to this region again, I will bring a bag full of hand mirrors: they are a valued commodity.

Western Highland man applying face paint to a woman, Papua New Guinea

Helping
The day is heating up, and the start-time is drawing closer: all hands are on deck for the finishing touches.

Face Paint, Feathers, and Shells
Finally! In their full traditional glory, the women gather on the field, …

Western Highland Woman Face Paint, Feathers, and Shells, Mt Hagen PNG

Party Time
… singing, dancing, banging their kundu drums, …

Western Highland Women

Western Highland Women’s Group
… and shaking their tail feathers.

Western Highland Woman Face Paint, Feathers, and Shells, Mt Hagen PNG

Celebrate Good Times, Come On!
They certainly left me feeling happy – especially when they turned on an old walkman, and started dancing to Kool & the Gang!

It was indeed a celebration! A celebration of good times and old traditions.

I feel very lucky to have been a part of it.

Happy Wandering!

Pictures: 19August2017

  • […] I was in Mount Hagen with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours. My fellow photo-tour participants and I were enjoying virtually unlimited access to groups as they prepared themselves and danced their way around and into the grounds (see: Western Highlands Women). […]ReplyCancel

Buddhas around a stupa, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Buddhas in a Cave
It takes a few moments for one’s eyes to adjust and to pick out the details of the intricately painted ceilings and the multitude of Buddha images inside the ancient temple caves at Dambulla in central Sri Lanka.

Sri Lanka is said to be the oldest continually Buddhist country in the world.

When Buddhism first spread beyond India, the two countries that embraced the teachings were Gandhara (lands that are now in northern Pakistan and eastern Afghanistan) and Ceylon (called Sri Lanka since 1972). Buddhist scholars believe that the Buddha visited the island of Ceylon on three occasions, and Buddhism was officially introduced as a religion into the country in the 2nd century BC.

This long religious tradition is in evidence all across the country, and nowhere more so than at the Dambulla Royal Cave Temple and Golden Temple complex in Central Province. This network of five sanctuary caves is unique in Southeast Asia because it is not naturally occurring: whole sections – including some of the Buddha images themselves – were carved out of the rock by early monks.

A great lump of lava rock towers 160 metres over the surrounding plains, and more than 80 caves have been discovered in the area. Prehistoric Sri Lankans probably made their home here, and burial sites that are about 2700 years old have been found. Forest-dwelling Buddhist monks were taking refuge in the caves and overhangs from the 3rd century BC. and King Valagamba of Anuradhapura is believed to have had the caves converted into a temple in the first century BC, after hiding out there during 14 years of political exile.

Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991 for its religious art, its more than two-millennia association with Buddhist ritual practices and pilgrimage, and its authenticity and integrity, the complex of caves has been “transformed continuously throughout the historical period into one of the largest and most outstanding Buddhist complexes in the Southern and South Eastern Asian region …”

The caves still operates as a monastery and a popular pilgrimage site, and are a fascinating place to visit.

Wild Elephants, Sri Lanka

Wild Elephants
My drive from Sri Lanka’s Eastern Province to the cave complex took me through some beautiful countryside and a number of National Parks. It was wonderful to see a herd of wild elephants roaming in the distance.

Golden Buddha and museum at the Dambulla Royal Cave Temple and Golden Temple, Sri Lanka

Golden Buddha Statue
Theravada Buddhist monuments in Sri Lanka are not subtle. The main entrance courtyard to this complex houses the rather garish Golden Temple Buddhist Museum, built in the 19th century. You enter through the lion’s mouth – under the giant seated golden Buddha!

Golden Stupa at the Dambulla Royal Cave Temple and Golden Temple, Sri Lanka

Golden Stupa
A nearby bell-shaped pagoda …

Buddha in a niche at the Dambulla Royal Cave Temple and Golden Temple, Sri Lanka

Buddha in a Niche
… houses offerings to smaller, more understated Buddha images.

Stairway up to the Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Stairways Up
Apparently, the winding path up to the caves is 364 steps long; I didn’t count them!

Insects in the foliage, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Bugs along the Way
Although the climb is quite steep, …

Berries in the foliage, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Berries in the Bush
… there are plenty of excuses to stop and catch ones breath, …

View over Central Province from Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

View over Central Province
… and the views from the top are well worthwhile.

View over the Corridor at Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

The Corridor
Having reached the top of the stairs and deposited my shoes with an attendant, I can finally walk down to the corridors that nestle into the hillside and guide visitors through the caves. It rained several times while I was there, so the roof covering was welcome!

People in the Corridor at Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

In the Colonnades
This is an active temple, where ‘modesty’ of dress is expected: sarongs were available for visitors who hadn’t thought to cover their shoulders and knees.

Giant reclining Buddha, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Devaraja Lena – the Cave of the Divine King
The first cave is almost completely filled by a 14-meter reclining Buddha that has been carved out of the rock behind it.

Head of the reclining Buddha, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Parinirvana Posture
The Buddha is depicted in the last moments of this life, in the lying posture with a hand under the head. The statue has been repainted countless times since being carved over 2000 years ago.

Painting of Vishnu, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Vishnu
Vishnu, Lord of the Gods, is said to have used his divine powers to create the caves.

White bell-shaped stupa, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Stupa
A large stupa sits in the corridor outide the second and largest cave.

Bodhi tree in the rainy courtyard, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Rainy Courtyard
In the courtyard below, the rain falls on the sacred bodhi tree, the “tree of awakening”, which represents the place where Gautama Buddha attained enlightenment.

Golden Buddha in the Cave of the Great Kings, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Cave of the Great Kings
The complex of five caves houses a total of 153 Buddha statues in a variety of postures.

Buddhas in the Cave of the Great Kings, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Seated Buddhas
The second and largest cave, the Cave of the Great Kings, is home to many of the Buddhas, and to much of the over 1800 square meters of murals on the walls and ceilings.

Seated Buddha on a stupa, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Buddha on a Stupa
It is impossible to take everything in! There are 40 seated Buddhas in this cave, …

Standing gilded Buddha, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Standing Buddha
… and 16 standing statues. This gilded one in an archway was particularly impressive.

Buddhas in the Cave of the Great Kings, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Row of Buddhas
‘Modern’ lighting was installed as part of the UNESCO requirements, but the light inside the caves is dreadful: badly aligned bulbs cast strange colours and harsh shadows.

Buddhas in the Cave of the Great Kings, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Standing Buddhas
But, the dark cave interiors are at least in part responsible for maintaining the vibrant colours of the statues and murals.

Buddhas in the Cave of the Great Kings, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Buddhas in the Cave of the Great Kings
While the temple has been repaired and repainted many times over the millennia, the art is also protected by being under cover and away from bleaching sunlight.

Seated Buddha in the Cave of the Great Kings, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Sirasapata – Flame of Wisdom
Some of the colours are a bit mind-blowing! This style of sirasapata on the top of the head of the Buddha is a feature in Sri Lanka.

Small seated Buddha in the Cave of the Great Kings, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

The Shadow of the Buddha

Buddha and Murals, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Buddha and Murals
The third cave, the Maha Alut Vihara (the Great New Monastery) is more modern and was painted during the reign of King Kirti Sri Rajasinha (1747–1782).

Buddha with a dragon arch, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Makara Torana – Dragon Arch
A Dragon Arch marks the gateway to heaven.

Man on a Balcony, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Man on a Balcony
Back outside, it is still raining, but it is time to retrieve my shoes and descend the mountain.

Walking down the hill was much easier than walking up!

But, it is actually not the same pathway, and I ended up in a different place from my car and driver. I had quite some fun trying to figure out what had happened, and trying to find a way back to the car park – which as it turned out was a fair distance away. In the end, I hired a tuk-tuk to drive me to my car.

Text: Happy Rambling

The joys of self-directed travel!

Until next time,

Happy Rambling!

Pictures: 09November2018

Sun high over Aurlandsfjord, Norway

In Aurlandsfjord
The a long inlets of sea carved into the mountains of south-western Norway are quite simply breathtaking. It is no wonder that parts of this Norwegian fjord landscape are UNESCO-listed.

You could say that the Norwegians invented fjords.

Their country is certainly home to some magnificent UNESCO-listed examples, and it is they who originated the word.

A rough line around Norway’s sea borders (the coastal perimeter) adds up to about 2,500 kilometres (1,600 mi). But, if you measure what is called the ‘low-resolution coastline’ which includes the nearly 1,200 fjords, islands, and bays, this perimeter increases tenfold to over 25,000 kilometres (16,000 mi).

The word “fjord” comes from an Old Norse word fjǫrðr (verb: ferd “travelling or ferrying”) for a lake-like body of water used for passage and ferrying. It has been adopted internationally – complete with the Nordic spelling (except in some place names, and in New Zealand English, where ‘fiord’ is preferred) – to describe the long, deep inlets of sea between high cliffs that were formed by the submergence of glaciated valleys. By geographic definition, a true fjord is created when years of glacial weight and abrasion cuts a U-shaped valley into the surrounding bedrock, and this is then flooded by the ocean.

Ironically, in Norwegian, Danish, and Swedish, the word fjord has a more broad and general usage than it does in English and in international scientific terminology. In modern Norwegian, fjord can refer to any inlet, channel, or long narrow body of water – even long, narrow freshwater lakes. This disparity of meaning has often lead to some confusion.

But, there was no doubt or confusion about the two fjords I was on: Aurlandsfjord, and the adjoining Nærøyfjord. Both are branches off the 205-kilometre long Sognefjord in Vestland county, Western Norway. Sognefjord, nicknamed the King of the Fjords, is the largest and deepest fjord in the country; Nærøyfjord, the narrowest and best known arm of the extensive Sognefjord system, has been called part of an “archetypical fjord landscape.”.

I had a full day in Flåm (see: A Walk in a Norwegian Wood), which sits at the inner end of Aurlandsfjord, and I took the opportunity to board a scenic cruise into the fjords. The shoulder season didn’t start until the next day (May 1st), so there were limited offerings. I was lucky, however, and managed the get onto the last afternoon sailing of the new hybrid catamaran, the Vision of the Fjords.

The two hour trip started from Flåm, and paused to take in some of the more spectacular of the many waterfalls in Aurlandsfjord before switching to full-electric mode and sliding quietly along the Unesco-listed Nærøyfjord to the tiny settlement of Gudvangen. From there, after the requisite souvenir shopping, we all boarded buses, and rolled back towards Flåm in the dark. The sun had already ducked behind the steep mountains: except in full summer, daylight can disappear pretty quickly in these deep valleys.

This is one of those landscapes you really have to experience for yourself; pictures cannot do justice to the sight of the valley walls rising straight up all around you, the deafening noise of the crashing waterfalls dropping hundreds of feet into the waters below, and the feel of the crisp spring air on your face as your tour boat slices through the narrow fjords.

Even so, I hope these pictures give you a small taste:

Passengers on the upper decks of Vision of the Fjords, Flåm Norway

Passengers on the Upper Decks
The external gangway on the multi-story Vision of the Fjords ship was designed to suggest a twisting mountain road. It allows passengers uninterrupted views of the passing scenery.

View over Flåm Harbour, Norway

Flåm Harbour
The upper deck of the award-winning sightseeing catamaran provides a great vantage point over the marina and the harbour.

Wake of a sightseeing catamaran on Aurlandsvangen, Norway

Leaving Flåm Behind
The Vision of the Fjords can travel up to 19 knots; as we motor through Aurlandsvangen, we can no longer see Flåm behind us.

Boats and a seagull on Aurlandsvangen, Norway

Boats on Aurlandsvangen
There is quite a mix of traffic on the fjord.

Radar on a sightseeing catamaran on Aurlandsvangen, Norway

Marine Equipment
Aurlandsfjord is 29 kilometres (18 mi) long and can reach depths of 962 metres (3,156 ft) below sea level. We have every kind of navigational device that our captain could possibly want to help him navigate a channel that is generally less than 2 kilometres (1.2 mi) wide.

Aurlandsvangen on Aurlandsfjord, Norway

Aurlandsvangen on Aurlandsfjord
The village of Aurlandsvangen is tiny (pop <1000), but not as isolated as it looks: it is serviced by the fjord, and a national highway.

Aurlandsvangen on Aurlandsfjord, Norway

Aurlandsvangen on Aurlandsfjord
Dwarfed by the surrounding mountains, the buildings look bright and cheerful in the afternoon sun.

Snow dusted mountains, Aurlandsfjord, Norway

Mountains on the Fjord
The mountains rise up to 1,800 metres (5,900 ft) all around us; …

Snow dusted mountains, Aurlandsfjord, Norway

Spring Snow
… fresh snow dusts the tops while old snow clings to shady crevices.

Flying the Norwegian flag on the Vision of the Fjords, Aurlandsfjord

Flying the Flag

Undredal from the water, Aurlandsfjord, Norway

Village on the Fjords
The fjords are only sparsely populated, with tiny hamlets clinging to small valleys in the lee of the mountains.

Undredal from the water, Aurlandsfjord, Norway

Undredal
With a population of just over 100 people, Undredal is known for its goat cheese, and a wooden stave church dating to 1147.

Gull on the Wing, Aurlandsfjord, Norway

Gull on the Wing

Aurlandsfjord, Norway

Aurlandsfjord

Lægdafossen on Nærøyfjord, Norway

Lægdafossen on Nærøyfjord
We turn into Nærøyfjord and pause to admire one of the many magnificent waterfalls … 

Lægdafossen on Nærøyfjord, Norway

Bottom of the Falls
… cascading down the rocky mountainside.

Nærøyfjord, Norway

Nærøyfjord

Fjord Safari boat on Nærøyfjord, Norway

Fjord Safari
Thrill-seekers get closer to the waterfalls than we do in our big ship.

Passenger on a tour boat, Nærøyfjord, Norway

Enjoying the Sights
But, even on our vessel, it is cool and windy.

Dyrdal Badaplass on Nærøyfjord, Norway

Dyrdal Badaplass on the Fjords
All these tiny hamlets have substantial wharves: water is the only means of access for many of these settlements.

Nærøyfjord, Norway

And the Mountains go Forever!

Waterfall on Nærøyfjord, Norway

Another Waterfall

Hamlet on Nærøyfjord, Norway

Hamlet on the Fjords
The masifs around us are awesome in the sunlight, but can you imagine how oppressive they might feel in the cold, dark of winter?

Nærøyfjord, Norway

In Nærøyfjord
With only the electric motor running, we glide almost noiselessly through the icy waters.

Bakka Kyrkje, Nærøyfjord, Norway

Bakka Kyrkje
Built in 1859, Bakka Church seats about 200 people. I wonder how far the faithful travel, as there can’t be that many people in the village!

Gudvangen Dock, Nærøyfjord Norway.

Gudvangen Dock
This is the end of the 18-kilometre (11 mi) long Nærøyfjord.

Wooden statue and boat, Gudvangen

Georg Hansen and the Prow of a Knörr
As we disembark in Gudvangen, we are greeted by Viking iconography. Dragons and snakes were popular figureheads for Viking longships because they were thought to strike fear into the spirits of the foreign lands being raided.

Late afternoon in Gudvangen, Norway

Falling light over Gudvangen
There is still light on the mountaintops around us as the time comes to leave, but very little makes it into the deep valley.

Text: Take only Pictures

It is a truly magnificent landscape, and notwithstanding some controversy surrounding the touristic Viking Village at Gudvangen, it is clearly being well managed for the future, with respect for the environment, and a regard for past traditions and history.

Until next time!

Photos: 30April2018