Hikers on the Alevia Circular Route, Peñamellera Baja, Spain

Hikers on the Alevia Circular Route
Overcast skies and misty rains can’t dampen my spirits when I am hiking on top of the world!

Sometimes Facebook ads get it right!

I am always looking for walks in interesting places. And, I had been wanting to study a language again.

But, I honestly can’t remember if I saw the ad in the corner of my consciousness before I decided on studying Spanish, or if I had decided on Spanish first…

Either way, at the most opportune time, pictures from a Spanish language school in the north of Spain (Peak Me) came through came through my Facebook feed. They were offering morning language classes, and afternoon walks walks in the Picos de Europa mountains through their partners (Canoe Adventure Trophy). It was a perfect combination! I was already planning a trip to England to visit family; once there, a week in Spain would be an easy side trip.

Of course, even in Europe (and even in the days before Covid-19), short flights between countries meant long drives to out-of-the-way airports and late-night or crack-of-dawn departures. The drives to and from Stansted Airport were much longer than the flight to and from Santander Airport in Cantabria. It was late, and I was travel-weary, when I finally reached my bed in Panes in Asturias.

On our first day of class I discovered that what little Spanish I thought I knew was either French or Italian! Never mind – they really do cater for beginners, and I wasn’t the only one.

Our first afternoon walk was around the Alevia Loop: just over seven kilometres, with an altitude gain of 334 metres. The beauty of this walk is that those who are faster and/or fitter can decide to hike to the top of Picu Paisana and back, at around the half-way mark. Clearly, that wasn’t for our group of jet-lagged folk; our guide Vivi made the decision to take it easy on us. Just as well, as sporadic rains slowed our pace further.

Join me for a delightful walk, high in the mountains of Northern Spain!

Iglesia de San Antonio
The small chapel above the town of Alevia is as far as our transport can go: from here we walk up into the mountains.

A Spanish guide in front of an explanatory sign board, Alevia, Spain

Nuestro Guíe Vivi
We had a delightful guide, who – although she was instructed to make us practice our Spanish – was fully conversant in English.

View over Alevia Spain

View over Alevia
Just a short drive away from our base in Panes, the town of Alevia is pretty little place …

View of the Cares-Deva Valley from Alevia, Spain

The Cares-Deva Valley
… high enough to afford views over the Cares-Deva Valley.

Walkers into a tree-covered path, Alevia Spain

Into the Woods
The path starts out through the trees …

View of mountain peaks from the Alevia Circle Track, Spain

View from the Trail
… but we soon have views of the peaks across the valley.

Close up: Marine Thistle, Alevia Spain

Marine Thistle – Eryngium Maritimum
There is plenty of interesting vegetation to look at when you want to catch your breath.

Hikers on the Alevia Circular Route, Peñamellera Baja, Spain

Clambering up the Mountainside
Sections of the trail are quite steep!

Woman seated on a mountainside, Alevia Spain

Lunch Break
I don’t usually include photos of me, but how could I resist this one?

Fat cow, Alevia Spain

Well-Fed Cow
The cattle in these alpine meadows are clearly finding enough grass!

Mountain Hut Ruins, Alevia Circle Track, Spain

Mountain Hut Ruins
The meadow is littered with limestone rock and the ruins of old huts.

Cow and Calf, Alevia Circle Track, Spain

Cow and Calf
The cows all watch us warily …

Rocks and Ruins On the Alevia Circle Track, Spain

Rocks and Ruins
… as we explore remnants of the past.

Abandoned Mine, Alevia Circle Track, Spain

Abandoned Mine

Walkers on the Ridge, Alevia Circle Track, Spain

Walkers on the Ridge
As we circle around clockwise, …

View over Unquera Cantabria, Alevia Circle Track, Spain

Unquera Cantabria
… we can see across Cantabria to the Bay of Biscay.

White horse on a green meadow, Alevia Spain

Horse in a Stony Corral

People on the Path, Alevia Circle Track, Spain

People on the Path
The path winds down gently, rewarding us for our earlier hard work.

View over Alevia from the Alevia Circle Track, Spain

Village Below
Soon enough, the red clay roofs of the village come into clear view …

View of mountain peaks from the Alevia Circle Track, Spain

Peak across the Valley
… and we see that distinctive peak across the valley, shrouded in misty rain.

Pots of flowers lining a stoney street, Alevia, Spain

Alevia Street
The streets of the village are clean and colourful.

view from Iglesia de San Antonio, Alevia Spain

From the Church Yard
Back at the church, I again admire the view, …

Detail of a small statue, Iglesia de San Antonio, Alevia Spain

Alcove
… and check out the details around the chapel before returning to the van for the short drive home.

It was a wonderful introduction to some beautiful countryside – and I certainly slept well!

Text: Happy Rambling

Until next time,

Happy Rambling!


Pictures: 23October2019

Kazakh eagle hunter horseback with a sheep carcass on the groundGolden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Riding in the Footsteps of Genghis Khan
They say that Kazakhs can ride before they can walk – so it is no surprise that most of the games at the Golden Eagle Festival take place on horseback.

The Kazakh people of Western Mongolia practically live on horseback.

For hundreds of years, Kazakh nomads had been roaming across the Altai Mountains – between what is now Mongolia and Kazakhstan – riding their small but hardy Kazakh horses (similar to Mongolian horses, but daintier), herding their fat-tailed sheep, horses, cattle, goats, Bactrian camels, and domestic yaks across long distances.

Communist control over Kazakhstan during the 1930s caused large numbers of Kazakhs to flee, and to settle more permanently in Bayan-Ölgii Aimag in the western corner of Mongolia. Once there, relative isolation allowed them to keep alive their Kazakh language, animist beliefs, Muslim religion, and rich cultural traditions.

The horse is central to Kazakh identity as a nomadic people, and features heavily in their rituals, language, art, and even their cuisine. Horses are loved and revered as providers of transportation, food, labour and companionship, and every Kazakh in the extended household has their favourite.

Today, most Kazakhs in Western Mongolia maintain a traditional lifestyle, typically moving their animals – and their gers: their round tents – three or four times a year to find new grazing pastures in this high, cold, and windy landscape with rocky soil and minimal rainfall. Warmth and colour in what is otherwise a harsh environment comes from richly embroidered clothing, tapestries, and blankets, sewn together from the lush furs of the hunted winter fox, felted from combed out camel under-coat, or cut and stitched, using the soft skins of sheep slaughtered for food and pelts. Social evenings are spent in blanket-lined gers, around fires of wood and manure, drinking airag (fermented mare’s milk), arkhi (cow’s milk vodka), or straight vodka, and singing songs accompanied by a two-string dombra (see: At Home with the Kazakhs).

Kazakh nomads are known for their skills as riders and horse-back hunters – skills that are demonstrated by the traditional horseback games on the programme at the annual autumn Golden Eagle Festival in Bayan-Ölgii Province. This festival signals the beginning of the hunting season, and is a chance to show off one’s traditional dress and one’s riding and hunting skills. It gives the community the chance to foster those skills amongst the young, and to promote them to outsiders to encourage tourist dollars. Perhaps most importantly, it allows people who have been wandering on distant plateaus with only their animals and immediate family for company, to come together and socialise.

The year I attended this colourful event, there were 98 eagle hunters participating: a small contingent of whom had crossed the border from Kazakhstan, and a few who were women. In addition, there were assorted camel riders, horse racers, and countless others in the entourages (see: It’s Not Just Birds).

But, like any good nomad, they all knew how to ride a horse!

A cloth

“Port-A-Loo”
The facilities at the festival grounds are rustic – to put it mildly! This is the ‘toilet block’: three wooden platforms with short-drop holes, enclosed on three sides by a shielding cloth.

Kazakh-Mongolian children, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Kids at the Fairgrounds
At the ger camp, where the competitors and vendors are staying, pink-cheeked children watch me with curiosity.

Young Kazakh man and woman horseback, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Kiz Kuar – “Girl Chasing”
Meanwhile, back in the ring, young men and women have entered the Kiz Kuar, …

Young Kazakh man and woman horseback, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Couple Racing
… while I’ve seen Kiz Kuar translated as “girl chasing”, it is the young women who are doing the chasing.

Young Kazakh man and woman horseback, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Kazakh Couple Horseback
The woman is meant to chase the man with her whip swinging, …

Young Kazakh man and woman horseback, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Whip Chase
… and when she catches him, she is meant to ’embarrass him’ with a kiss.

Young Kazakh man and woman horseback, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Chasing your Man
The fastest pair around the circuit win. The couples, who have already been judged on the merits of their traditional dress, are clearly having a blast!

Young woman horseback, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Wild Rider
Being female and wearing frills is no impediment to being able to ride like the wind! While men and women have differing ‘roles’ in society, it has been said that being on horseback is a great equaliser, and the women in Mongolia’s nomadic groups have always had a level of respect and autonomy not enjoyed by many of their neighbours.

Kazakh Ponies standing in a group, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Kazakh Horses
When the winning couples have been declared, the horses are temporarily left aside …

Men and women in traditional Kazakh dress, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Rich Costuming
… and everyone rejoins in the middle for a dance party.

Dancing men and women in traditional Kazakh dress, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Dance Party
Naturally, the eagles are invited …

Eagle hunter horseback, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Circling
… and some of the horses join in, galloping around the perimeter.

Old man and woman dancing in traditional Kazakh dress, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Elder Couple Dancing
This wonderful old couple has seen a few seasons dancing together!

Kazakh Hunter and his bird at the Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Hunter and his Eagle
The búrkitshy or berkutchi – as eagle hunters are called in the Kazakh language – and their búrkit, or golden eagles, …

Portrait: Kazakh Hunter and his bird at the Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Kazakh Hunter and his Golden Eagle
… are everywhere, and are the stars of the festival.

Kazakh horseback with a sheep skin, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Kokpar (Kuk-Bar)
In the next contest, the headless body of a dead sheep is placed in the middle of the ring, …

Kazakh horseback picking up a sheep skin, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Sheep Grab
… a rider bends to pick the sheepskin up from the ground, …

Two horseback Kazakh eagle hunters fighting over a sheep, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Sheep-Chase
… and tries to get it to a point in the arena without losing it to the other team.

Two horseback Kazakh eagle hunters fighting over a sheep, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Sheep-Fight
The tug-of-war over the sheep …

Two horseback Kazakh eagle hunters fighting over a sheep, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Sheep-Tug
… is dramatic …

Two horseback Kazakh eagle hunters fighting over a sheep, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Sheep-Grab
… and vigorous.

Two horseback Kazakh eagle hunters fighting over a sheep (Kokpar/Kuk- Bar), Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Sheep Grab
The contest over the sheepskin was repeated a number of times with different participants.

Two horseback Kazakh eagle hunters fighting over a sheep, Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Refereeing the Kokpar
I was never clear on the rules: sometimes one hunter had a head start with the sheep, other times a second rider was there to interfere. Clearly there are rules, however. With their whistles around their necks, referees keep a close watch on the action.

Two horseback Kazakh eagle hunters fighting over a sheep (Kokpar/Kuk- Bar), Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Tug-of-War

Two horseback Kazakh eagle hunters fighting over a sheep (Kokpar/Kuk- Bar), Golden Eagle Festival, Olgii Mongolia

Sheep-Wrestle
I continue to marvel at how these riders managed to stay on their horses! We left as the awards were being announced over an undecipherable sound system, in awe of the ability of all the riders.

Kazakh ger in early morning light, Olgii Mongolia

Last Look at my Ger
With the festival over, it’s time for a last sleep in my blanket-lined ger, …

Altai mountains from the air, Olgii Mongolia

Mountains Below
… and a morning flight back to Ulaanbaatar over empty-looking mountains. (iPhone)

Somewhere down there, nomads are herding their animals, and hunting winter furs. In the words of a Kazakh proverb I’ve quoted before:

“A fast horse and a soaring eagle
are the wings of a nomad.”

Long may they roam the steppes.

Happy Wandering!

Pictures: 02-03October2016

Portrait: Kara Youth in white and black beads, Dus Village, Ethiopia

Kara Youth in Beads
Although the Kara people of the Lower Omo Valley love their face and body paint, one of my favourite pictures from their village is this one of a clean-skinned youth, free of clay paint and ritual scarring.

Ethiopia is a big country: at 1,104,300 sq km, it is number 28 in the world in terms of area. And, it remains – despite recent progress in alleviating extreme poverty – one of the poorest countries in the world (CIA World Factbook).

So, local infrastructure is not what it might be, and the country is not particularly easy to get around!

This inaccessibility has to be a help to the 16+ distinctive ethnic groups who live in the far reaches of Ethiopia’s Omo Valley. I was there on a Piper Mackay photographic tour with a small group of photo-enthusiasts under the tutelage of photographer Ben McRae. We had taken a short flight into the Great Rift Valley from Addis Ababa some days before, and had visited the Dorze people (see: Roadside and Village Portraits) before overnighting in Arba Minch. From there, we enjoyed the scenic drive south into the beautiful Omo Valley, where our base was in Turmi. Over the next days, we visited Hamar (e.g.: Visit to a Hamar Village, Face in a Hamar Village; Hamar Village Portraits; and Morning Portraits), Daasanach (see: A Visit to the Daasanach) and Arbore (e.g.: Portraits in an Arbore Village; and Arbore Village Portraits) villages.

What continued to amaze me was how distinctive each of these groups was!

On our sixth day in the country, we hopped into four-wheel drives after breakfast, and drove north again, deep into the heart of Kara (Karo) territory. A beautiful, fully equipped campsite had been set up for us (Grand Holidays Ethiopia) in shady forested clearing along the Omo River, not far from Dus Village. This gave us unique access to the Kara people, Ethiopia’s smallest ethnic group, but possibly one of the most popular. They are well known for their decorative face- and body-painting in chalk and ochre.

There are about 100,000 members of the Kara ethnic group, but most live in South Sudan or the Central African Republic. In Ethiopia, there are only about 1400, living across three villages on the left bank of the Omo River. As speakers of an Omotic language, they are loosely affiliated with the Hamar people; this puts them at odd with the more aggressive and more numerous Nilo-Saharan-speaking Nyangatom who live on the other side of the river.

Join me on an excursion into Kara territory.

Portrait: Ethiopian woman in cornrows, Buska Lodge, Turmi

Worker – Buska Lodge
After breakfast in Turmi, we farewell the staff there and hit the road. (iPhone6)

Dirt road, Southern Nations, Nationalities, and Peoples

Driving Ethiopian Roads
The roads on the east side of the Omo River into Kara territory are dirt tracks …

Dusty car driving into the jungle, Southern Nations, Nationalities, and Peoples

Dusty Tracks
… that lead into the jungle. At one point we had to stop and remove fallen trees before we could pass.

Mobile tent camp outside Dus Village, Ethiopia

Dus Mobile Camp
After a challenging drive, it was lovely arriving at our beautiful campsite, which was set up and ready for us in a shady clearing in the forest along the Omo River in the heart of Kara land.

Inside a large tent, outside Dus Village, Ethiopia

Home Away from Home
My tent in the Dus Camp was airy and spacious.

Rain clouds over Dus Kara Village, Ethiopia

Dus Kara Village
When we drove to the nearby Kara village in the afternoon, the rains came …

Villagers in clay paint crowded onto a building porch, Dus Ethiopia

Escaping the Rain
… and the locals huddled under the eaves of a community building to protect their face- and body-paint. Kara people enjoy decorating their bodies and faces daily with coloured ochre, white chalk, yellow mineral rock, charcoal, and pulverised iron ore.

Kara man in clay paint on a building porch, Dus Ethiopia

Kara Man
Kara men paint their faces and bodies in white chalk on special occasions. A brief gap in the rain allows a natural-light shot of a man in his ceremonial paint.

Kara village in the open plains, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Kara Village
The rains have made little impression on the dry landscape. Although all the homes are the traditional conical huts (ono) we saw on entering the village, there are a few more modern buildings scattered around, …

A simple schoolhouse, Dus Village, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Looking into the Schoolhouse
… including a simple schoolhouse.

Looking out through the Schoolhouse Windows, Dus Village, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Looking out through the Schoolhouse Windows
With the weather being so chancy, we take shelter in the school and set up a a black cloth and a soft-box lighting system to take some “studio” shots of the youngsters who have gone to so much trouble with their body art.

Portrait against black: painted Kara girl in red and yellow beads, Dus Village, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Kara Girl
Men, women, boys, and girls, all engage in creating and wearing symbolic and artistic body and/or face decorations.

Composite portrait: two painted Kara children, Dus Village, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Painted Children
The decorations can be elaborate and detailed, or rough, but striking paintings traced with the palms or fingers.

Portrait against black: painted Kara girl in red and yellow beads, Dus Village, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Kara Youth in Beads and Paint
The patterns can change daily, and there is a vast lexicon of painting motifs to choose from.

Composite portrait: two painted Kara children, Dus Village, Omo Valley Ethiopia

Face Paint and Beads
Even so, some common themes emerge.

Early morning landscape, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Dawn in the Dus Village
We returned to the village early the next morning to learn more about the Kara and their customs.

Ceremony House, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Ceremony House
Only initiated men are allowed into this structure – in fact, only initiated men …

Portrait: Kara man face paint and ostrich feather, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Kara Elder in his Ostrich Feather
… like this elder, are even allowed to touch it! A friendly, but watchful, eye was kept on us, lest we got too close.

Kara man, two women and babies, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Kara Family

Portrait: Two Kara men face paint, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Men in Body Paint
With these men side by side, you can see the different body paint patterns in use.

Portrait: Kara man face paint, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Man in Face Paint
The notch in the man’s left ear was given to him after initiation to symbolise his ability to listen to tribal secrets.

Portrait: Kara woman in face paint and flowers, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Woman with Flowers
Men and women make an incision below their bottom lip and often insert straw or wood – or in this case flowers – into it.

Portrait: young Kara woman in beads and face paint, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Pensive Young Woman

Portrait: Kara man with an AK47 in a Skull Cap and face paint, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Automatic and a Skull Cap
Kara share many similarities with their Hamar cousins. Men who have killed an enemy from another tribe or a dangerous animal are entitled to wear an ochre clay cap with an ostrich feather. All men need to own an AK47 before they marry, so they can prove their ability to protect their village and herds.

Portrait: Young Kara woman in a hut, Dus Village, SNNPR Ethiopia

Young Woman in a Hut
The huts are hot and dark, even mid-morning. With a helper and an off-camera flash, I manage a few shots of this solemn young woman before we all have to get outside where it is slightly cooler.

The Kara are a beautiful and fascinating people – fortunately, with our tents set up so close, we were able to return to this village several times.

In this era of being confined within my own borders, I look forward to reviewing more of my photos from these visits.

Text: Keep smilingUntil then,

Keep Smiling!

Photos: 19-20October2018

Headless torso of a pharaoh holding two anks, Karnak Egypt

Headless Pharaoh
Holding tightly to a pair of ankhs, or the keys of life, a headless statue stands tall in the Karnak temple complex near Luxor, Egypt.

So much of Ancient Egypt was about one’s relationship to the Gods and the afterlife. And, so much art and architecture dedicated to these relationships remains to be explored today.

From the mind-blowing pyramids at Giza (see: Stories in Ancient Stone) to the amazing tombs in the Valley of the Kings (see: The Writing on the Walls, and Take me to the Afterlife) and the stunningly beautiful mortuary temple for Hatshepsut (see: The Queen who would be Pharaoh), every hieroglyph, every statue, and every wall and column says something about the Egyptians’ complex belief system about immortality.

Nowhere is this more in evidence than at Karnak, a temple complex on the east bank of the Nile River, just 2.5 km north of Luxor. Part of the UNESCO-listed “Ancient Thebes with its Necropolis”, this crumbling collection of temples, chapels, pylons, and other buildings, stretches over two square kilometres, forming the largest temple complex in Egypt and one of the largest in the world. The Temple of Amun-Ra at the heart of the Karnak complex vies with Angkor Wat in Cambodia for position as the largest single religious building in the world.

Added to and altered for well over a thousand years, the site has been called a great historical document in stone. From the beginning of the Middle Kingdom (2040 – 1782 BCE), through the New Kingdom (1570 – 1069 BCE) and into the Ptolemaic Dynasty (323 – 30 BCE), successive Egyptian rulers affixed their own architectural stamps to the complex, defacing the contributions of their predecessors and building over ruins of monuments in honour of the God Amun-Ra thought to date to the Old Kingdom (c. 2613 – c. 2181 BCE). Even Alexander the Great left his mark here, decorating an inner chapel.

The temples are principally dedicated to the Theban god-triad: Amun, the father-god, god of the sun; Mut, mother-goddess and god of ‘everything’ in the world; and Khonsu, lunar child-god, god of the moon.

Join me for a wander around this extraordinary complex:

Luxor on the Nile, Egypt

Morning on the Nile
Staying on a boat on the Nile made me feel like I was in the middle of an Agatha Christie novel. (iPhone6)

Model of Karnak, Karnak Temple Complex, Egypt

Model of Karnak
At the entry to the extensive Karnak Temple Complex, visitors get a chance to appreciate an overview.

Tourists walking to and from the First Pylon, Karnak Egypt

Entering Karnak
The First Pylon, a monumental gateway of tapering towers leading into the temple complex, was the last pylon to be built at Karnak, and was never finished and decorated.

Criosphinxes and the walkway to the First Pylon, Karnak Egypt

Rams at the Entrance to Karnak
The entry to Karnak is flanked by criosphinxes, sphinxes with the bodies of lions and the heads of rams. The god Amun is depicted as having the head of a ram with curved horns.

Criosphinx, Karnak Egypt

Criosphinx
Weathered and worn, each criosphinx protects a small figures of a Pharaoh – thought by most to be Ramses II – in the pose of Osiris.

Criosphinxes and the walkway to the First Pylon, Karnak Egypt

Phalanx of Criosphinxes
The row of ram-headed sphinxes leads the eyes to one of the obelisks on the site.

Tourists walking to and from the First Pylon, Karnak Egypt

Sun through the Gates
It is nine o’clock in the morning. It seems only fitting that the sun should greet us as we enter the first gate into a temple dedicated to the sun god.

Sparrow in a wall of heavy bricks, Karnak Egypt

Sparrow in the Wall

Tourists in the First Court, Karnak

The First Court
Once we are through the massive pylon, the space opens out.

Tourist in the entry to the Barque Shrines of Seti II, Karnak Egypt

Barque Shrines of Seti II
Barque stations or shrines were resting places for the statues of the gods when they were journeying outside the temple during festival processions. The First Court houses the shrines of Seti II and Ramses III. I liked leaving people in my pictures: it allowed me to appreciate the grand scale that even these smaller temples are built on.

Man with a broom in the First Courtyard, Karnak Egypt

Sweeper in the Courtyard
More criosphinxes grace the courtyard.

Egyptian guides in the Courtyard, Karnak

Guides in the Courtyard
When I visited, tourism was still down following the Arab Spring, and many guides hung around chatting and hoping for work. I can’t imagine how they are managing this year!

Hieroglyphs on the Pillars, Karnak Egypt

Hieroglyphs on the Pillars
Intricate detail is everywhere; it is too much to take in! The guide books recommend you visit more than once.

Tourist in a entry to a shrine, Karnak Egypt

Tourist in a Courtyard
Doorways and portals lead off in all directions.

Looking up through the Pillars of the Hypostyle Hall, Karnak Egypt

Pillars of the Hypostyle Hall
The Hypostyle Hall – literally, a great hall whose roof rests on pillars or columns – it truly amazing!

Top detail of large Sandstone Pillars, Karnak Egypt

Sandstone Pillars
The 134 sandstone columns represent papyrus stalks, as they reach for the sky where the roof once was.

Detail of large Sandstone Pillars, Karnak Egypt

Writing on the Pillars
At the beginning of creation, Amun arose from the waters of chaos in the primeval papyrus swamp.

Detail of large Sandstone Pillars, Karnak Egypt

Hieroglyphs on the Pillars
Every square inch tells a story.

Detail of large Sandstone Pillars, Karnak Egypt

Sandstone Stories
According to scholars who can actually read them, the reliefs and inscriptions in the Great Hypostyle Hall provide us with an encyclopedia of Egyptian civilisation.

Pharaoh in a nook between Sandstone Pillars, Karnak Egypt

Pharaoh in the Nook

Hatshepsut

Hatshepsut’s Obelisk
Hatshepsut had two obelisks created for Karnak – this 0ne, the tallest surviving ancient obelisk on earth – still stands.

Hatshepsut

Obelisk in the Blue
An obelisk is a tall, four-sided, narrow, tapering monument which ends in a pyramid-like shape at the top. Obelisks symbolised rebirth and were used as funerary monuments. Pairs were also placed at the entrances of temples. Each obelisk was carved from a single piece of stone – typically red or rose granite from the quarries at Aswān – and then moved to its location and raised onto a base.

Detail: Hatshepsut

Hieroglyph Detail
Obelisks are carved with hieroglyphs that include religious dedications to the sun god and commemorations of the rulers – in this case Hatshepsut.

Blue hieroglyphics, Karnak Egypt

Iconography
Protected portions of the complex retain some of the original colour. These must have been brilliantly vibrant when they were fresh!

Painted iconography, Karnak Egypt

Inside Alexander’s Temple
One of the most colourful corners of the complex is the sanctuary decorated by Alexander the Great.

Visitors walking through the Akh Menou Temple, Karnak Egypt

Akh Menou Temple
Otherwise known as the Festival Hall of Thutmose III, the morning sun is already hot when we walk through the Akh Menou Temple,

Hieroglyphic light and shadow on rocks, Karnak Egypt

Patterned Shadows
… and the shadows are strong. (iPhone6)

Seated Pharaoh Thutmose III, Karnak Egypt

Seated Pharaoh
Tuthmosis III (also known as Thutmose III, 1458-1425 BCE) was the 6th king of Egypt’s 18th Dynasty. Stepson to Hatchepsut, he became a great military and was one of Egypt’s most effective rulers.

A date palm and a faceless pharaoh: it seemed a fitting last image from a temple complex with more stories than I can comprehend.

But, learning some of the history of Ancient Egypt through its sculpture, art, and architecture is an absolute joy!

Text: Safe Travels! Ursula

I look forward to the days when we can explore again.

Until then,

Safe Travels!

Pictures: 08October2019

View of riverside valley forest, and surrounding mountains, Stanislaus National Forest, CA USA

On the River
Snow-capped mountains in the background, a forest dominated by drought-tolerant pinyon pines and juniper trees in the foreground, and mountain waters at our feet: this is the beautiful Eastern Sierras during a less fiery season.

For the last three weeks, fires have been raging across the Western States of the USA: in Oregon, California, and Washington millions of acres of land have been razed, more than 30 people have been killed, and thousands of homes have been lost.

I’ve been watching in horror as the images coming out of the conflagrations remind me of what we endured here in Australia at the beginning of this year, and may well be facing again soon.

It has also been personalised for me, as at least one friend was among the tens of thousands of people under evacuation orders in California. Fortunately for her, the winds shifted in time, her house was saved, and she and her animals were able to return to her home in the hills outside of Coleville, CA. But, the Slink Fire – last reported at 26,752 acres – was within two miles of the front door of her house: a place I once stayed.

It was mid-summer when I visited many years ago: July, which is rated as the hottest – but one of “the most pleasant months in Mono County”. The moisture from the winter snows had not yet been sucked out of this end of the Antelope Valley: the grass was green and the mountain flowers were out.

On our first day in the vicinity, we went on several short drives and medium hikes. We drove
into the Stanislaus National Forest, about an hour south of Coleville. There we hiked up into the Sonora Pass (elevation 9628 (2935 metres)) and onto a portion of the fabled Pacific Crest Trail in search of views and wildflowers. We drove back north in the late afternoon to explore some local mining history at the Golden Gate Stamp Mine, and then enjoyed evening views over the Eastern Sierras.

Fortunately for me, I was a bit fitter then than I am today: even the passes in California are higher than Australia’s tallest mountain! The Sonora Pass Pacific Crest Trail climbs 1,500 feet (457 metres) in the first two miles (3.2 km) before levelling out and traversing the flank of Leavitt Peak (11,569 ft – 3526 m), the highest mountain in the area. So, I used the wildflowers as a good excuse to stop and catch my breath!

Do join me:

Appaloosa horse in the Antelope Valley, CA USA

Appaloosa
Not far from here, there are bands of wild horses roaming in the mountains. This beauty in the lush Antelope Valley, however, is not one of those!
Side note: California has not one but three localities called “Antelope Valley”! This one, high in the Eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains, stretches from Mono County, where we are here, into neighbouring Nevada.

View over the West Walker River CA USA

View over the West Walker River
Our first stop is at a vantage point, where there are views over the farms and ranches in the Antelope Valley, and over the West Walker River as it flows towards Nevada.

Silver Lupine in flower, CA USA

Silver Lupine – Lupinus Albifrons
It is here that we are treated to our first wildflowers: the showy white-leaf bush lupine, or evergreen lupine, is native to California and Oregon.

Hairy Mule

Hairy Mule’s Ear – Wyethia Molliss
Named for their long, hairy leaves that resemble the ears of the work animals commonly used in early mining here, hairy mule’s ears are members of the sunflower family.

Hairy Mule

Mule’s Ears on the Track
Clumps of plants find a home on the dry and rocky earth …

Pine Forest, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Pine Forest
… and the tall, straight pines stretch out around us.

Small waterfall over large boulders, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Small Waterfall
The waters that start with snow-melts high in the mountains rush down noisily over massive boulders in the many creeks.

Hiker walking into the woods, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Into the Woods
Our pathway takes up up over more boulders …

Alpine clearing, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Alpine Meadow
… and into clearings …

Lemmon

Lemmon’s Rubberweed – Hymenoxys Lemmonii
… of fallen logs and alpine flowers. Also known as Lemmon’s bitterweed, Lemmon’s rubberweed is a member of the daisy family native to the western United States.

Mountain Coyote Mint, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Mountain Coyote Mint – Monardella Odoratissima
As we walk up the Sonora Pass Trail, we find more unique wildflowers. Mountain beebalm or mountain pennyroyal is a perennial which grows in mountain forests and sagebrush scrub.

Scarlet trumpet flowers, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Skyrocket – Ipomopsis Aggregata
My favourite of the wildflowers here is a member of the phlox family commonly known as scarlet trumpet or skyrocket. Apparently it is one of the most common western wildflowers, but we didn’t see that many.

Indian Paintbrush, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Indian Paintbrush – Castilleja

Mules Ears on the Ridge

A man and a dog on a walking path, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

A Walker on the Track

White Prickly Poppy, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

White Prickly Poppy – Argemone Albiflora
Another of my favourites was the widely-distributed American-native bluestem prickly poppy.

Green pool in a mountain stream, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Glacial Waters
There are a number of glaciers high in these mountains, contributing rich green colours to some of the creek pools.

Post and bush on sandy ground, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Post and Bush
The eastern Sierra Nevada mountains and the Great Basin are in a rain shadow, which is largely responsible for the arid climate. Winters might be cold and wet, but summers are typically hot and dry.

Pine needles and pine cones, Eastern Sierras, CA USA

Forest Floor
Pine needles and pine cones litter the ground underfoot.

Golden Gate Mine, Walker CA USA

Golden Gate Mine
Later the same day, just a short drive out of Walker, we visited the Golden Gate Mine.

Detail: Golden Gate Mine, Walker CA USA

Golden Gate Mine Detail
In surprisingly good condition, this stamp mill operated from 1903 to 1939.

Detail: Golden Gate Mine, Walker CA USA

Golden Gate Stamp Mine
The ten-stamp mill pulverised the ore with a deafening noise that could be heard for miles.

Detail: Golden Gate Mine, Walker CA USA

“Joshua Hendy Iron Works”
The Joshua Hendy Iron Works was an American engineering company that was once a world leader in mining equipment.

Initials in a poplar trunk, Walker CA USA

Leaving One’s Mark
No matter where you are in the world, you find the marks of those who have gone before!

Windswept pine trees on a bare ridge, Coleville CA USA

Strange Pines on the Ridge
Our last stop of the day was on a ridge nearby, …

Windswept pine trees on a bare ridge, Coleville CA USA

Windswept Trees
… where the cross-winds strip the trees of moisture, and the updrafts stole my favourite fedora.

Colourful craggy boulders on a bare ridge, Coleville CA USA

Rocks on the Ridge
Mosses and lichens colour the rocks, …

Bleached and twisted tree against a blue sky, Coleville CA USA

Nature’s Sculpture
… old trees are left like skeletons against the blue skies, …

View over the Antelope Valley from a bare ridge, Coleville CA USA

Overlooking the Antelope Valley
… and the views go on forever.

Text: Take only Pictures

Endless views …

… and endless walking possibilities!

Not today, unfortunately with ongoing fires and compromised air quality. I do wish our leaders would learn from the current catastrophic blazes and make some positive changes for the future!

I’m not holding my breath.

Pictures: 14July2013

  • […] How lucky was I to have a photography-friend with not one, but two bases in this rugged and gorgeous area! Like me, she is a fan of mountain walks and flowers, and we had timed my trip to line up with the best of the mountain blooms (see: Greener Pastures and Wildflowers). […]ReplyCancel