.jpg) A Nepali Spice Palette
The colours and flavours of Nepali food are wonderful, and they start with a perfectly balanced spice mix. This masala dani (spice box) contains some of the more commonly used flavours: salt, turmeric, red chilli powder, cumin powder, fenugreek seeds, coriander powder, and ground carom seeds. One of the great joys of travel is the food.
The colours, smells, and tastes of local cuisine are so evocative of the place. When you have the opportunity to break bread with the locals, there is a warm friendliness that lives in your memories long after the trip has finished.
I love taking part in cooking classes when I travel. It is not so much that I will replicate the recipes at home; it is more that learning how the local food is prepared enriches the taste experience, and also gives me a glimpse into people’s lives.
The first meal I ever ate in Nepal was at a restaurant in Thamel called – believe it or not – the Kathmandu Kitchen. I guess every city has one – even Kathmandu! Since that first trip, I’ve made a bee-line to momos any time they are available. I just love Nepali food.
On my most recent trip to Nepal, I was especially lucky.
I was there – in part – to participate in a workshop with travel photographer Gavin Gough and photojournalist Jack Kurtz. When we weren’t exploring various outdoor locations (e.g: A Thousand Steps, Boudhanath Stupa, Bhaktapur Ruins, and Swayambhunath, etc.), we were grouped in an airy Airbnb home in Thamel and enjoying meals cooked by our host Indira in a genuine Kathmandu kitchen.
Indira has the deftest hand with Nepali spices that you could wish for, and a love of cooking that is infectious. We persuaded her to give us a ‘cooking lesson’. Of course, when you are dealing with a group of enthusiastic photographers, that involves a lot more watching and clicking than it does dicing and chopping! But we did help a bit – and we definitely enjoyed the final products.
Join me for a typical Nepali meal.
.jpg) Fresh Produce
Great meals start with the best ingredients. Some of this is from the market; some is straight out of the garden. .jpg) Grated Carrot
Although this is a modern household, complete with solar electricity, many of the kitchen tasks are done by hand. It takes time and effort to grate the kilos of carrots that will go into our carrot pudding desert.  Indira and the Moka Pot
An army marches on its stomach, and Indira knows that cooks and kitchen-hands live on coffee. Maas Ko Daal
Lentils (dal) are a key feature in Nepali cuisine, and there are as many ways of making dahl as there are ways to spell it! Dahl Bhat (lentils with rice), made with yellow or red lentils, is a staple in the country, but black gram beans (maas ko daal) are another favourite. These lentils are cooked in an iron pot, and the herbs and spices are fried in ghee separately and added last. Nepali Saag – Curried Greens
Saag (greens: spinach, chard, kale, or mustard) are stir-fried with garlic, cumin seeds, salt, pepper, and curry powder for a simple and nutritious side dish. Pots on the Stove Slicing Beans
Indira slices her beans lengthwise opposite the vein so that the flavours (fenugreek, Himalayan chives, turmeric, chopped garlic, chili powder, asafoetida, and salt) penetrate. Whisking the Daal
Once the lentils are soft, they are lightly whisked. Painting Flavour
Meanwhile, in a fresh pot of heated oil, more spices are being gently fried. Chopping Garlic
You can never have too much garlic! Chopping Okra
Another side dish on the menu is tare ko ramtoriya – pan-fried okra. Salting the Okra
Salt is added to the okra that is cooking with red onions, black cumin, green chilies, turmeric and chili powder. Chicken in a Pot
Chicken pieces are stewed in preparation for making curry. Cutting Potatoes
Small potatoes have been peeled, boiled and cooled. Now, they are cut in half … Alu Ko Achar – Potato Pickle
… and coated in mustard oil with fenugreek, Himalayan chives, asafetida (Hing), turmeric, and chili powder. They are then tossed in final dressing of ginger paste, black cumin seeds, lemon juice and coriander. Ginger and Garlic in a Pan
More herbs and spices are toasted; there is always something fragrant warming up. Cooking Carrot
The grated carrot (remember the carrot?) is added to a pot of melted ghee with bay leaves. After steaming, milk is added and the mixture is covered and cooked over low heat until the color comes back… Nepalese milk cream (which is a lot like mascarpone) is then stirred in, and the mixture cooks for another hour before sugar (and nuts if you like) is added. Delicious! Mixing Chilli Spice
Meanwhile, a deadly amount of chillies are added to another fried spice mix … Mixing Chilli Spice
… and the whole lot is blended to dress the chicken, which is now falling off the bone. “Many Hands”
They say that: “Many hands make light work.” In this case, however, most of the hands are observing! That is the carrot-milk pudding on the back burner. Baingan Pakoras
The eggplant fritters – coated in chickpea batter – were a dream! They didn’t all make it to the dinner table. The Table
Finally! Time to eat. Our meal was, of course, wonderful!
So that we could try to replicate some of the unique flavours at home, a couple of my fellow travellers went to the markets with Indira to buy a few of the herbs and spices that were less familiar to us. I was pretty sure that Australian Quarantine would confiscate my large plastic packets of herbs and toasted seeds, but they just laughed.
Thanks to Covid-19, the world is currently at a standstill, and I’m really missing travel. Not as much as people in the hospitality industry in tourism-dependent locations like Nepal are missing incoming visitors, to be sure, so I do consider myself very lucky.
But, I do miss travel. Going through old pictures cheers me up, and so too does getting into my spice cupboard, pulling out the mustard oil, the Himalayan chives, and the asafetida – and cooking up something exotic.
Bon Appétit
Pictures: 17March2017
Posted in Food,Nepal,TravelTags: cooking,food,Kathmandu,Kitchen,Nepal,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Young Hamar Woman
The Hamar women of Ethiopia’s Omo Valley are made immediately recognisable by their ochre-coated hair. This young woman is a high-ranking first wife, which we know from the heavy leather and metal necklace with the large cylindrical detail on the front that she is wearing. Her husband also has a second wife, which is indicated by the second plain metal bangle on her neck. The Hamar captivated me.
A tall, good-looking people who are mostly relaxed and unselfconscious in front of a camera, the Hamar are a delight to visit and photograph. They are possibly the most distinctive of the many ethnic groups living in the far reaches of Ethiopia’s Omo Valley, near the border with South Sudan.
There are about 50,000 pastural semi-nomadic Hamar (or Hamer) tribal people in the Southern Nations, Nationalities, and Peoples Region of Ethiopia. Although they skirmish with their neighbours – necessitating the regular carriage of Kalashnikovs – they have been left mostly untouched by modern society and maintain a traditional lifestyle with generations-old cultural practices.
Cattle are central to Hamar life, playing a role in rites of passage and tribal rituals (more about their unique cattle-jumping ceremony some other day). Wealth and status is measured by how many head a family has, and any man who loses a family’s cattle herd will have his reputation ruined – hence the AK-47s. Men marry when they are in their mid-thirties, with the number of brides they can have determined by the ‘bride wealth’ their family can afford to pay to the young women’s families in cattle, goats, and guns.
To the visitor, it is the Hamar’s unique body decorations and clothing that stand out. Traditionally, women and girls wear soft leather smocks richly decorated with beads and cowrie shells, and coat their tightly dread-locked plaits with ochre. Both men and women cover their arms in copper bracelets, and sport liberal beads and scarification (more about that another time). Young men tend towards intricately braided hairstyles, and warriors add elaborate clay caps to their hairdos.
I was lucky enough to make several visits to a large village not far from my accommodation in the market town of Turmi (see: Hamar Village and Hamar Faces). I was travelling with photographer Ben McRae as part of a small-group Piper Mackay Photo-Tour, and we were all contributing to the local economy through the “pay-per-click” photo-tourism prevalent in the Omo Valley. It is only fair that these tribal people should trade on their distinctive appearances, but I couldn’t help but wonder about those who might be considered ‘less attractive’, and therefore earn less supplemental tourist-income.
Join me on a visit to a Hamar village – it is like a journey to another world.
Hamar Village
The Hamar are pastural semi-nomadic people living in villages of simple huts in the hills on the eastern side of the Omo Valley in southern Ethiopia. Shells and Beads
Even the young unmarried women have a poise and elegance that is admirable. As girls marry at around age seventeen, I assume that this young woman is younger than that. Mother and Child
Very young girls also sport the characteristic ochre-coated hair, copper bracelets, beads, and cowrie-shell trimmed smocks. Elder Women
This woman caught my attention on every one of my visits to this village. Hamar Warrior
This man with his regal bearing was another of the villagers that I photographed on more than one occasion. Clay Cap
Traditionally, men who have proven their courage by killing an enemy or a dangerous animal fashion a mud-clay cap into the back of their hair and decorate it with precious feathers. This cap can last for many months. Girl in a Kraal Doorway Young Hamar Girl
Those eyes! And perfect poise. These children are completely unphased by the visitors in their midst. Milking the Cows
Getting candid shots in a pay-per-click village has its challenges! This man was worried about me photographing his cows over the fence around the enclosure until I assured him I was intending to pay him appropriately. Each cow costs extra! Milking the Cows
Cows are central to Hamar economy. The men are responsible for them, and their futures depend on the herd: unless their family has enough cattle, the young men can’t negotiate for a good wife. Earrings and Braids
As he turns back back to his milking, I can admire his beautiful tight braids and copper bracelets. Beads and Braids
Both men and women value their appearance in Hamar society. Hair grooming is an essential part of this: this young man’s beading and braiding clearly have taken a lot of time. Bird in a Bush
This village is in a beautiful pastoral setting. I think this is a superb starling (Lamprotornis superbus). Grandmother in a Hut
The only light in the small and dark Hamar huts is from the low doorway … Family in a Hut
.. and from the chinks in the walls. Woman outside her Home
As is the case with most traditional societies, Hamar people divide tasks according to age and gender. Hamar Woman
Older women – even second wives like this one – have a role and status in the community. Because women marry much younger than men, they are often left widowed, but they maintain some familial control over their husband’s younger brothers and the family livestock. Young Adolescent
This young girl, barely into her teens, was one of the more popular subjects in the village. Young Woman in Saffron That Direct Gaze! Backs and Beads
Two young girls proudly show off their back scarring that they have acquired at a cow-jumping ritual. Beads and Blankets
One of these young women has embellished her pink sunglasses with pink flower. We get a good view of her decorative midriff scarring. Layered in Beads
Another pair of friends, layered in their best beads, present themselves to the camera. Youthful Smile
It is the clear-eyed smiles that I love the most. It is another world.
But, the road network in the region is improving, local towns are expanding, and land is being grabbed for hydroelectric dams and water-guzzling plantations.
 At least some modernisation is inevitable, but the Hamar are confident they can preserved their cultural values and traditions.
I do hope they are right!
Photos: 18October2018
Posted in Africa,environmental portrait,Ethiopia,TravelTags: environmental portrait,environmental portraits,Ethiopia,Hamar,Hamar Village,Omo Valley,portrait,portraits,travel,tribal life,Ursula Wall
Igreja dos Carmelitas
Porto is called the City of Granite, but the liberal use of blue and white azulejo tiles lend a fairy-tale lightness to the elegant old buildings. Finished in 1628, the Igreja dos Carmelitas was once the church of an order of Carmelite nuns, and is separated from its neighbouring monastery church, the Igreja do Carmo, by a one-meter-wide residence. Porto, Portugal’s second largest city, sits nestled into the granite hills either side of the Douro River.
One of Europe’s oldest centres, the early Proto-Celtic settlement of Cale dates back to at least 300 BC. It was conquered by the Romans around 136 BC. and served as the outpost city of Portus Cale (Port of Cale) for many years. This heritage lives on both in the name of the country (Portu-cale) and the city itself (o Porto).
The city’s location at the intersection of the Atlantic Ocean and the Douro River (a major river crossing the Iberian Peninsula) has long given it status as a commercial hub. More recently – in the second half of the 17th century – it is also known for lending its name, “port”, to the fortified wine made from the distilled spirits of grapes from vineyards flanking the Douro Valley.
The city’s rich history is evidenced in its beautiful old buildings, which – thanks to the two-mica granite that most of them are built from – have stood the test of time. The historic old Ribeira district, together with the iconic 19th century double-decker Luiz I Bridge across the Douro, and the formidable Renaissance Monastery of Serra do Pilar overlooking it, have been UNESCO-listed as part of “an outstanding urban landscape with a 2,000-year history.”
The city is a rich treasure-trove for wanderers. The small ship that my husband I were travelling in was docked at the very modern Porto Leixões Cruise Terminal some ten minutes drive away from Porto, so we took advantage of a shore-excursion bus to access some of the high points of this charming sea port.
Do come along!
The Outer Breakwater – Leixões
One of the things I love about approaching places from the water is the very different view you get of the life of a port. This fisherman in his open boat looks so tiny against the vast Atlantic Ocean behind him! “She Changes”
The bus taking us from the port to the city had heavily sun-screened windows which tinted all my photos the most awful colours! Even so, I loved this sculpture, known locally as anémona (the anemone). Installed in 2005, it was designed by American artist Janet Echelman to reference the region’s fishing industry. Porto Tram
From the vantage point of our bus, we get a good view of the local transport options. Plaza – R. das Carmelitas
The cobbled streets are pedestrian friendly. Guide Elsa
Our local guide makes sure we have maps and know our appointed return-time before setting us loose with a variety of options. Livraria Lello e Irmão
My first stop was at the wonderful neo-gothic façade of one of the world’s most beautiful book stores. There was already a queue, and Filipe Teixeira the doorman was the checking tickets – which need to be pre-purchased (€5) around the corner. Livraria Chardron
Built in 1906 by the Portuguese engineer Xavier Esteves, the bookstore is possibly best know for its iconic twisting crimson staircase, where visitors all want their pictures taken. Harry Potter Books
The story is that JK Rowling partly wrote the first Harry Potter book in Porto – and in this library – while working in the city as an English teacher in the early 1990s. Staircase
Rowling is believed to have modelled the fantastical staircases of Hogwarts on this amazing forked staircase rising to the gallery on the first floor. Almost Abstract – Bookshelves
The interior is truly gorgeous, if a little hard to appreciate with the crowds in the space. Shopping
The €5 fee can be used against any purchases. Portuguese Authors
Most of the books are, of course, in Portuguese. Busts of local authors adorn the shelves. Opulence
Much of the interior is treated with painted plaster designed to mimic sculpted wood. Light streams in from the stained glass ceiling. Fonte dos Leões
Not far from the library, we find the Fountain of the Lions, a 19th-century fountain built by a French company in response to an 1882 Porto initiative to bring water into the city. Igreja do Carmo
Partner to the older Igreja dos Carmelitas next door, the late Baroque-style rococo Igreja do Carmo was built between 1756 and 1768. The locally-made tin-glazed ceramic azulejo tiles, depicting Mount Carmel and the founding of the Carmelite Order, were added in 1912. Vímara Peres
We rejoin our bus, and it takes us up to the highest point in the city, the Terreiro da Sé, a vast esplanade which overlooks the old town. A statue of ninth-century nobleman Vímara Peres (820 –873), the first ruler of Portugal, rises against the sky. Porto Cathedral
Originally built in the early 1100s, this Baroque Roman Catholic Cathedral, with 20th century modifications, is one of the city’s oldest landmarks. Ramos Pinto Cellars
From the Terreiro da Sé we have views over the Douro River and the Ramos Pinto Cellars: just one of the many port wine cellars in the region. Igreja Sao Lourenco
We also overlook the mossy spires of the 16th century Church of St. Lawrence, … Torre dos Clérigos
… and over the rooftops to the bell tower of the Baroque Clérigos Church, built between 1732 and 1763. On the Plinth
People sit at the base of the Pillory of Porto, once a place for the hanging of criminals, and an enduring symbol of the power of justice. Tiles at the Cathedral
Blue and white azulejo tiles adorn the cathedral … Balconies and Tiles
… and the houses outside its borders. Monastery of Serra do Pilar
Back in the bus again, we drive past the historic circular monastery, built across the 15- and 1600s … Dom Ponte Luís I
… and the double-decker metal bridge spanning the River Douro. When this bridge – designed Teophile Seyrig, a disciple of Gustave Eiffel – was started in 1880, it was the longest of its kind in the world. Church of Saint Ildefonso
The eighteenth-century Igreja de Santo Ildefonso was undergoing renovations when we drove past. Ribeira Housing
Our last stop was in the charming and picturesque UNESCO-listed riverside district. Lamps and Laundry Traditional Rabelo Boat
From our river-front coffee-shop table, we watched the Rabelo boats – traditionally used to transport port barrels – take tourists along the Douro River. St. John the Baptist
On our way back to the bus for the last time, we passed this quirky modern sculpture of St. John the Baptist by Portuguese artist Joao Cutileiro, … Porto Building Tiles
… and more traditional blue-and-white building tiles. Lines and Curves
Our last images were of the ultra-modern Porto Leixões Cruise Terminal, … Porto Leixões Cruise Terminal
… designed by local architect Luís Pedro Silva, and opened in 2015. Local Police – Porto Leixões Cruise Terminal I’m not sure I have ever seen so many churches in one day!
Porto is a delightful city to explore, and we had the additional pleasure of knowing we’d be sampling some of the local wine with our dinners once we were back on the boat.
Cheers!
Photos: 19April2018
Afternoon Light in the Wadi
The rains have stopped, but there are still clouds overhead and puddles in the sand as we bounce across the desert in Wadi Rum, Jordan, in the back of our Bedouin trucks. Lawrence of Arabia screened on free-to air television here in Australia on Easter Saturday. It seemed an odd choice for the Easter weekend, but nothing is ‘normal’ this year.
I’d forgotten what a long movie it is (four and a half hours with ad breaks!) but with the Covid-19 lock-down, it’s not as if I was going anywhere else! So I settled in. The portrayal of the archaeologist, army officer, diplomat, and writer Colonel Thomas Edward Lawrence and his role in the Arab Revolt of 1916–18 as depicted in the movie is problematic, but those visuals! And that wonderful score!! Watching the opening scenes where the sun slowly comes up over the empty horizon, the long sequences of two camel riders dwarfed by the majestic sand dunes, and the later images of mirages dancing in the heat, I was reminded how much I love the film – and how much I love the desert.
I first saw the movie at a drive-in as a youngster, when I was learning about ‘Arabia’ in Social Studies at school. I certainly didn’t understand the plot details or the subtleties of characterisation, but I was captured by the flowing sands and the expanses of space and sky. I later read a biography of T.E. Lawrence’s life, and watched the movie many more times.
Watching the film again this last week made me ache to get back to my pictures from some of that very same landscape.
I thought about Lawrence – and that movie – a lot last year while I was in the Wadi Rum Protected Area in the south of Jordan. Souvenirs of Lawrence’s time in this region are everywhere. And the landscape itself is – quite literally – awesome. The name is apt: Wadi means valley, and Rum means high or elevated; the dramatic red rock cliffs rising high over the floor of the desert valley at Wadi Rum are nothing short of spectacular.
As if this wasn’t special enough, it actually rained while we were exploring the rock formations! Wadi Rum is one of the driest places on earth, with precipitation generally limited to short, light showers on 15 days or less a year. So, the spattering of rain and hail as were clambering over the sands added extra mystique.
The resulting colours and light were just amazing – and constantly changing under the late afternoon sun.
Do join me in the magic of the Wadi Rum desert.
The Seven Pillars of Wisdom
After about four hours of driving south from Amman, Jordan’s capital city, the dramatic sandstone formation named for Lawrence’s autobiographical book, come into sight from our bus windows. Before the First World War, Lawrence was writing a book about the seven great cities of the Middle East. The planned title – Seven Pillars of Wisdom – comes from the Book of Proverbs (9:1) in the King James Bible. However, when the war broke out, Lawrence was based here in Wadi Rum as part of the British Forces of North Africa. Instead of finishing the first book, he used the title for his autobiographical account of his experiences during the Arab Revolt of 1916–18. The title was then borrowed to name this stunning rock formation. Wadi Rum Visitor Center
The Visitor Centre is an essential stop, as we all need entry permits for the UNESCO-listed Wadi Rum Protected Area. It also affords us another view of the Seven Pillars of Wisdom. Vendors at Rest
As well as information about the area, the Visitor Centre houses gift and souvenir shops. We weren’t giving them much business! Grocery Store: Wadi Rum Village
The village of Wadi Rum is tiny – but we are able to buy drinks and tasty local take-away lunches of rice and spicy topping. Trucks into the Desert
We leave the highway – and our air-conditioned bus – behind, and head off into the desert in rustic pick-up trucks. Into the Wadi
There are no roads here; we make our own tracks across the valley floor. Camel at the Ready
Naturally, where you have Arabian desert, you will find camels. Camels
These, however, are not for us – we will get our chance to ride the next day. Tourists and the Red Rocks
It is like a scene from another planet; no wonder that The Martian, starring Matt Damon (amongst other movies), was filmed here. In the Wadi
The wadi seems to go on for ever, each rock formation more magnificent than the last. Tourist Trucks
The protected area is 74,180 hectares (183,300 acres) of unique desert landforms. Camels Made Small
The sandstone cliffs dwarf us. There are six Bedouin tribes that still live in villages in the Wadi Rum area. Many operate tourism ventures, like these camels for hire … Campsite in the Shelter
… and the overnight campsites we see along our way. Dunes in the Wadi
It starts to rain as we climb our first dune, rendering the colour of the sand an even darker red. Hail on the Sands
The light dances on the rocks below as hail joins the rain. The afternoon has been hot, so the cooling hail is welcome. Camels in the Hail Rain and Hail
The light changes from one moment to the next as the clouds block the sun overhead. (iPhone6) Truck in the Red Sands
The rain storm passes, and we head to our next stop. Light in the Desert Flash Flooding in the Wadi
A wadi is a valley that is usually dry; … Fresh Water in the Wadi
… the waters from the recent rains have people excited to bathe. Trucks in the Desert Light
It is the iron oxide in the sand and stone here that gives us all the different shades of red. Car Parking in the Brightness
The light glistens off the puddles collected in the rocks as we climb another formation. Climbing the Formations
This is Instagram Selfie heaven! People climb onto the outcrops to get pictures of themselves. Lawrence’s House
It is hard to imagine someone living here! This shelter was built over the ruins of a Nabataean water cistern. Lawrence’s House
According to legend, Lawrence stayed here during the Arab Revolt. Little remains … Rock Formations
… except for the magnificent views. More Formations Petroglyphs
Wadi Rum has been inhabited for more than 12,000 years. The petroglyphs at Khaz’ali Canyon are thought to date to the Thamud people who lived here from at least the 8th century BC to about 600 CE. Horses on the Trail Wadi Rum Night Luxury Camp
The down-side of the surprising rain was that the skies were not as clear as normal – so the starry skies over the domes inspired by The Martian would have been less impressive. Tourist Tents
I didn’t mind: I was tucked into a woven Bedouin-style tent, complete with ensuite. The autumn night was cool, and I was glad to snuggle into my bed, dreaming of red rocks and desert heroes – and looking forward to the wadi sunrise in the morning.
 What a majestic place!
Like Lawrence, I too fell in love with it.
Until next time …
Pictures: 14October2019
Posted in Jordan,landscape,TravelTags: desert,Jordan,landscape,Landscapes,nature,nature reserve,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,Wadi Rum
Enga Woman
High in the rugged mountains of Papua New Guinea, Engan people practice age-old cultural traditions. Papua New Guinea (PNG) is a rugged land of steep, jungle-clad mountains and fast-flowing rivers. The impenetrable terrain has not only cut the interior of the country off from outsiders, but has segmented the local population as well. PNG is one of the world’s most ethnically diverse countries, with over a thousand tribal clans across its 22 provinces, and more than 850 indigenous languages being spoken.
The highest and one of the most rugged of PNG’s provinces is Enga, which sits in the north-most region of the Central Range or Central Cordillera. Unknown to outsiders until 1934 when gold prospectors made forays into their territory, even other Highlanders call Engans ‘mountain people’! But the province is also unique in that it has only one major linguistic and ethnic group, making Enga speakers (approximately 300,000 people) the largest single native-language group in the country.
Like many of the Highland tribes, the Engans have a long history of inter-clan tribal fighting. In the 1850s, Engan leaders developed a system of ritual gift (often pigs) exchange called tee to reduce the violence. “Tee” means “to ask for” in the Enga language, and the Tee ceremonies create exchange networks and allow bigmen (chiefs) to show off their influence and wealth.
The easiest way to meet and mix with representatives of PNGs many tribal people and to get a small taste of their traditions of dress and customs is to attend a sing sing – a gathering of tribal groups to share culture, dance, and music. I was at the Paiya Village Mini Cultural Show in the Western Highlands Province with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours and a small group of photography enthusiasts.
A group of young women (the men weren’t attending) had come to the festival from Enga, the province next door, to share their suli muli dance. This ‘dance’, which involves jumping up and down, beating their kundu drums, and singing “suli muli”, has become synonymous with ‘Engan‘ as a tribal identifier.
I particularly enjoyed spending time with these engaging young women, and ‘chatting’ with them even though we had no shared language.
Join me!
Through the Crops
These Highland mountains are fertile; we walk past tidy crop rows on our way to the fair grounds. Engan Women
At the top of a hill, I meet a group of young Engan women who are in the process of getting ready for the sing sing. Engan Tattoos
Facial tattooing is common among Engan women. The black around the eyes is paint, reserved for special occasions. Engan Woman in a Woollen Cap
I am staggered by how many people in the tropics wear woollen hats! Not all the women are dancing; … Getting Ready
… a number of helpers are along to help to complete the preparations. Those wonderful giant hats are made of moss and plant fibres. With her Drum
All the women have their kundu – drums. With their Kundu
… which they use to accompany their rhythmic jumping-dance. Enga Woman
These young women were bright and engaging; … Enga Women
… we managed lengthy conversations – without the benefit of a common language! In a Dark Cottage …
The buildings around the property don’t have electricity; inside one, more Engan women are getting ready for their performance. Animal Pen Child in Pink
The children local to the village hang about to watch the proceedings. Engan Dancers
The women get together for an impromptu demonstration of the suli muli. Short Suli Muli Video
Suli Muli
When they perform on the festival grounds, they are in their full costuming, … Engan Dancers
… complete with tall bird of paradise feathers in their hats … Engan Woman in Body Paint
… and a lumpy body-coating made from clay, mud, plant oil, and pig fat. Engan Dance Troupe
They circle the festival grounds several times before breaking off into social groups. Proud Profile Two Young Engan Women Last Word …
It turns out that my principle contact was also the last photo I took of the Engan women at the festival. 
They were a joy to meet and photograph.
Until next time,
Keep Smiling!
Photographs: 18August2017
Posted in Papua New Guinea,Portraits,TravelTags: Enga,Enga Province,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,Papua New Guinea,people,Photo Blog,PNG,travel,Travel Blog,tribal life,Ursula Wall
« Older posts
Newer posts »
|
.jpg)
Looking through your pictures has cheered me up too! Wonderful images, lovingly captioned, bringing back the very best memories. Thanks for sharing.
Many thanks for your visit, Gavin, and for your kind words. It is always a pleasure traveling with you!